c&k#36-0 ss - Canoe & Kayak

Halong Bay - Venice on the rocks
by John Banks
Five hours by road east of Hanoi, in the heart of the Gulf of
Tonkin, lies one of the true Natural Wonders of the World,
Halong Bay. As the local Vietnamese all know, it was formed
back in pre-history when the Great Dragon descended from
the place of legends and its mighty tail carved the seabed
into thousands of spectacular monoliths.
In 1994 Halong Bay was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Park. While
occasional cruise ships may give moneyed passengers a glimpse from their
staterooms, it is the kayaker who can really experience the awesome
grandeur of limestone cliffs rising sheer from the sea-bed.
If you are visiting Hanoi there are two ‘must do’ experiences. Forsake the
modern 4 or 5 star hotels and stay in the old French quarter where you can
experience Asia as it once was. Then arrange a two-day, three-day or longer
trip to Halong Bay. Companies such as Handspan Tours will organize
transport, accommodation, guide and good sea-worthy kayaks for less than
the daily cost of living in most parts of the world. Don’t let them suggest you
spend a day in Halong City. It’s a waste of time and there are better places
such as Catba Island to visit when not paddling.
A guide is advisable as the islands and islets number over 2,000 and it would
be easy to get lost unless you speak Vietnamese or have a GPS and local
chart. A mother ship is not a bad idea as sleeping on deck under the stars
beats a hotel most of the time. While English is widely spoken in the cities,
Halong Bay is populated mostly by fisher folk who aren’t quite so educated.
However this is rapidly changing as you will see when paddling past the many
floating villages which rely on the sea to provide both sustenance and an
income from fishing, or more likely fish farming. There are floating schools,
floating stores and even an occasional floating pub. But don’t be too hasty to
tie up and climb out. Every floating structure is populated by mongrel dogs
whose sole purpose seems to be to take rabid bites out of unsuspecting or
foolhardy interlopers. Fortunately they haven’t taken to jumping on your
kayak if you pass close by.
Some of the islands are hollow with stalactites and stalagmites and well worth
a side trip. The awesome beauty of the bay is however best experienced by
meandering among the islands, rock gardens and lagoons. It is not unusual
to find a lagoon that can only be entered by paddling under an archway at
low tide. Legend has it that pirates found such places ideal to bury their
treasure, so have a mooch around.
While many of the channels were heavily mined during the American War, it
is unlikely the occasional remnant will pose a threat to your kayak.
The best time to see Halong Bay is May to October. While February to April is
sometimes subject to mist or rain it’s still worth a visit. And after Halong Bay,
head to the hills west of Hanoi for some great downhill mountain biking. Or
down to the Mekong delta for more paddling.
32 ISSUE THIRTYsix • 2006