ANNUAL report 2011

28
reseArCh ANd iNNovAtioN
From the very beginning, Research has been at the heart of L’Oréal’s growth,
with three main drivers of innovation for the group: active ingredients,
formulation and evaluation. Our portfolio of proprietary assets
is our treasure chest. 2011 was a great year on this front, marking
the start of the enthralling adventure of the LR 2412 molecule.
It was also the year when predictive evaluation moved into a new era.
LAUreNt AttAL
EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT, RESEARCH AND INNOVATION
the story of LR 2412, an
exceptional molecule
A uNIQuE MOLECuLAR STRuCTuRE
LR 2412 has the ability to act
in each of the different layers of the skin.
first presented in seoul in south korea at
the world congress of dermatology in may 2011, lr 2412
is an anti-ageing molecule with remarkable properties.
this highly promising active ingredient, launched in
the new visionnaire skincare range by Lancôme,
is a prime example of l’oréal’s innovation strategy.
ne of the strengths of L’Oréal Research is its ability to create
major proprietary active ingredients with very long life
cycles, such as Mexoryl SX, the first photostable UVA filter, which has
made the group number one in photoprotection suncare since 1982.
The product of 12 years of research and protected by 17 patents, the
LR 2412 molecule is one of these major discoveries. Its originality? A
global effect on all skin quality parameters, making it one of a new
generation of anti-ageing active ingredients.
Inspired by nature
The story begins in 2002. By observing the defence systems developed
by plants in harsh conditions, L’Oréal’s researchers identified jasmonic
acid, a “signal molecule” which activates scarring of the plants’ tissues,
while making them more resilient. The challenge for researchers was to
draw on this repairing power to design a compound perfectly suited to
the skin. This led to the birth of the LR 2412 molecule, a derivative of jasmonic
acid produced by an environmentally friendly synthesis process.
A new-generation
active anti-ageing ingredient
The primary advantage of LR 2412 is its excellent bioavailability, which
enables it to seep through the epidermis and target all layers of the
skin. Throughout the diffusion process, it sets off a series of reactions:
at the surface, it promotes the natural peeling of the skin, and at
deeper levels the synthesis of several molecules which are fundamental
for maintaining the skin’s structure over time. L’Oréal teams have
demonstrated that it is capable of specifically correcting 12 biological
skin ageing markers.