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Published by<br />

MALAYSIAN PALM OIL COUNCIL<br />

2nd Floor, Wisma Sawit Lot 6, SS6, Jalan Perbandaran,<br />

47301 Kelana Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.<br />

Copyright © 2010 Kurt G. Berger<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means<br />

without prior permission from the Publisher.<br />

National Library of Malaysia<br />

Cataloguing-In-Publication Data<br />

Berger, Kurt G.<br />

<strong>Quality</strong> and functions of palm oil in food applications: a layman's guide/ Kurt G. Berger<br />

ISBN 978-983-9191-09-7<br />

I. <strong>Palm</strong> oil -- <strong>Quality</strong>. 2. <strong>Palm</strong> oil--By product. 3. <strong>Palm</strong> Products--Malaysia<br />

I.Title<br />

633.85109595


FOREWORD<br />

While working at the <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong><br />

Research Institute of Malaysia (now the<br />

Malaysian <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board) in the 1980s<br />

I received a phone call from a social<br />

acquaintance involved in the palm oil<br />

trade, asking "I say old chap, what's a<br />

fatty acid then?" It was not difficult to<br />

help him.<br />

Reflecting on the question later it<br />

occurred to me that many of the people<br />

involved in palm oil, from growing through to end use, would surely find it interesting<br />

and of benefit to know something of the basic technology.<br />

That thought led to a series of articles in the Global <strong>Oil</strong>s & Fats Business Magazine<br />

(GOFB). There were two main objectives.The first was to describe the parameters used<br />

to judge the quality of the product and the measures needed to ensure its good arrival<br />

at the user, and the second was to provide information on how it is used in food production<br />

around the world and, with it, to give some insight into the fascinating scientific<br />

aspects of food.<br />

My own involvement in palm oil dates back to my time in the London research laboratories<br />

of a large food manufacturer. In 1953 the British food industry was finally liberated from<br />

the shackles of the wartime Food Ministry control, and we started to experiment with<br />

palm oil, which was a new ingredient to us.We found that it was functional and economic<br />

in a number of our products.<br />

This work led 20 years later to an invitation to talk about our experience at a two-day conference<br />

in London dealing with palm oil from the planting to the eating. One of the other<br />

speakers was Tan Sri Borg Bek-Nielsen. When we met again in 1976 he remembered my<br />

presentation and said: "We are thinking of starting a Research Institute for palm oil and you<br />

must come and help us when we are ready."


Two years later a formal invitation came, which I was able to accept. There followed an<br />

exciting and busy eight years in Malaysia. First we needed to draft a research programme<br />

and agree it with the technical committee of the industry; next, to establish temporary laboratories,<br />

for which we found two shophouses in the suburbs of Kuala Lumpur; and then<br />

came the planning of permanent buildings and selection of a site for the Institute.<br />

Chemical research started in 1979 and within two years yielded results that were suitable<br />

for presenting at an international palm oil conference organised by the Incorporated<br />

Society of Planters.<br />

Staff for the Technical Advisory Service were recruited in 1980 and soon started to investigate<br />

the potential uses of palm oil around the world, feeding back to the Food Technology<br />

Unit any problems that needed practical investigation. It was important to publicise useful<br />

results at international conferences and to take part in government-led trade missions.<br />

Not surprisingly perhaps, we found people who were suspicious of an ingredient unknown<br />

to them after using only their traditional ingredients for many years.At that time, only western<br />

Europe was knowledgeable about palm oil.To develop some confidence in the product,<br />

a Familiarisation Programme was instituted; key people in government offices and<br />

industry in developing countries were invited at the Institute's expense to visit Malaysia for<br />

two weeks.They were shown the plantations, the refineries and the work of the research<br />

institute and given opportunities to talk to all those concerned.<br />

This programme continues today, and there is no doubt that the friendly contacts made<br />

have oiled the wheels of commerce. It proved particularly useful in a number of countries<br />

where purchasing decisions were made in government offices with little technical knowhow.<br />

It is similarly urgent today to inform present and potential importers of palm oil's versatility<br />

in application in their accustomed food products.This book is based on the GOFB series<br />

of articles, edited and brought up to date.<br />

Kurt Berger<br />

Food Technology Consultant, UK


CONTENTS<br />

CHAPTER 1<br />

Basic chemistry of fats<br />

CHAPTER 2<br />

Tests of quality<br />

CHAPTER 3<br />

<strong>Quality</strong> during transport<br />

CHAPTER 4<br />

Bakery products<br />

CHAPTER 5<br />

Aerated dairy products<br />

CHAPTER 6<br />

Butter alternatives<br />

CHAPTER 7<br />

The lauric oils<br />

CHAPTER 8<br />

Confectionery fats<br />

CHAPTER 9<br />

Frying oils<br />

CHAPTER 10<br />

Low trans fats formulae<br />

CHAPTER 11<br />

<strong>Palm</strong>-based oleochemicals<br />

CHAPTER 12<br />

<strong>Oil</strong>s and fats properties<br />

8<br />

14<br />

21<br />

29<br />

39<br />

46<br />

65<br />

70<br />

79<br />

87<br />

93<br />

106


8<br />

CHAPTER 1: BASIC CHEMISTRY OF FATS<br />

Technical aspects of oils and fats are of importance to those in the business.This chapter<br />

examines the chemical composition of oils and fats.<br />

Nine propositions cover the basic chemical information required to understand the main<br />

technical terms used in the oils and fats industry (see Box).


9<br />

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES<br />

What makes fats solid and oils liquid? More details about fatty acids are useful in answering<br />

this. At first sight, one would think that a double bond would be stronger than a single<br />

one in linking the Carbon chain. However, the two bonds involved are bent out of their natural<br />

position and therefore are under strain. So, a double bond is actually weaker.


10<br />

So triglycerides containing only or mainly straight saturated acids align easily together to form<br />

crystals. Such triglycerides are solid at room temperature.The kink in the unsaturated acids<br />

makes it more difficult for their triglycerides to align and form crystals, so they stay liquid.<br />

Most of the major vegetable oils contain mainly unsaturated fatty acids and are liquid at<br />

room temperature.These consist of soybean, rapeseed, sunflower, cottonseed, groundnut,<br />

olive and maize oils.<br />

The most important exception is palm oil.With 50% unsaturated and 50% saturated acids, it<br />

has a solid consistency at room temperature and is therefore unusual among vegetable oils.<br />

Coconut and palm kernel oils are also solid due to their unusual content of short and medium<br />

chain saturated acids. They have special applications in food and in the oleochemical<br />

industry. In terms of world supply, they are available in relatively small amounts.<br />

FOOD USES<br />

Many of the food uses of oils and fats depend on the consistency or body. A simple example<br />

- you can't pour margarine or butter on salad, and you can't spread olive oil on bread.<br />

A solid character to a varying degree is necessary in fats for margarine, for bakery products,<br />

for ice cream. Historically, this solid character was provided by animal fats, but these<br />

are little used in margarine and bakery fats nowadays.<br />

The liquid oils can be modified to have a solid consistency by hydrogenation. Hydrogen is<br />

added to some of the unsaturated component fatty acids, so increasing the average saturation<br />

of the oil. The process takes place at around 100°C when the oil is mixed with<br />

hydrogen gas in the presence of a catalyst. This sounds very simple but at the molecular<br />

level there is a complication.<br />

During hydrogenation the unsaturated acid has to go through an intermediate stage. At<br />

this point the kink at the double bond is ironed out, the chain becomes straight but the<br />

double bond is still there. It is now a 'trans' unsaturated fatty acid (trans fat). Partly-hydrogenated<br />

oils always contain a mixture of saturated acids, unchanged unsaturated acids and<br />

trans fats.<br />

Trans fats are now known to be nutritionally undesirable, since research has shown that<br />

they raise the level in the blood of undesirable 'LDL cholesterol' which is involved in the


11<br />

process of clogging up the arteries. At the same time they also decrease the blood level of<br />

the desirable 'HDL cholesterol' which removes excess cholesterol from the blood stream.<br />

This doubly adverse result is now universally recognised and has led national and international<br />

expert bodies to advise minimising trans fats in foods.<br />

Some countries have labelling laws to declare the trans fats content in food products.<br />

Denmark has imposed a legal limit on the amount. Consumer awareness of nutritional<br />

issues is high everywhere and food industry management is therefore strongly motivated<br />

to remove trans fats from products. In the UK a large supermarket is stating that most of<br />

its products are now free of trans fats, and the rest are following.<br />

Two approaches are used to make consistent fats without trans fats:<br />

1. If you completely hydrogenate liquid oil, so that all double bonds are saturated, clearly<br />

you no longer have any trans fats. However, such a fat is as hard as bricks and, on its own,<br />

of no use in food.<br />

Another simple chemical process, 'interesterification' comes into play.The fully saturated<br />

fat is melted and mixed with liquid oil.A catalyst is added, which induces all the fatty acids<br />

to disconnect from their glycerol and re-attach to some other available glycerol in a random<br />

manner. If you get the right proportions of the ingredients, you finish with a fat of<br />

just the desired consistency.<br />

2. The second approach uses palm oil or its higher melting fraction, palm stearin, either in<br />

a mixture with other oils, or by using the interesterification procedure on a mixture<br />

designed to get the characteristics needed.<br />

The choice between the two approaches will depend on circumstances; for example, the<br />

availability of locally produced oils may point to the first method. In many situations the<br />

palm oil method is the more economic, as in the USA.<br />

The steady increase in recent USA imports (Figure 1) shows that some manufacturers<br />

have been taking advantage of the 'solid fat' properties of palm oil and palm stearin<br />

since 2000. This trend can confidently be predicted to continue. Some commercial<br />

firms in the USA already offer palm-based products for formulations that are free of<br />

trans fats.


12<br />

Interchangeable use<br />

A degree of interchangeability of oils is welcomed by the food industry as it gives the buyer<br />

a choice of the cheaper supply. But just how interchangeable are vegetable oils? This answer<br />

very much depends on the intended use.<br />

For example, when selecting the solid component for a margarine formula, it was possible<br />

to choose between partly hydrogenated soybean, rapeseed or other liquid oil and palm oil.<br />

Today this option is much less available due to marketing considerations; palm oil is therefore<br />

a unique ingredient for this purpose.


13<br />

For use as a salad oil it is desirable that the oil should remain clear at the temperature of<br />

a domestic refrigerator (5°C or 40°F).This criterion is met by soybean, rapeseed, olive and<br />

sunflower oils. It is also met by maize oil, provided its traces of natural waxes have been<br />

removed. So, all these oils can be regarded as interchangeable. Both groundnut and cottonseed<br />

oil tend to crystallise in the refrigerator, as does palm olein, which is the more liquid<br />

fraction of palm oil.<br />

While the above salad oils are interchangeable as regards technical performance, there are<br />

still aspects of consumer choice.Thus olive oil is often prized for its special flavour characteristics<br />

and commands a high price.There may be a preference for sunflower oil or maize<br />

oil because they have long been promoted as being healthy, due to their high content of<br />

the nutritionally essential linoleic acid.<br />

Use in frying<br />

The important use of oils and especially palm oil for frying will be discussed in Chapter 9.<br />

At present, interchangeability of oils is limited in deep frying.This is likely to change in the<br />

future due to the efforts of plant breeders. They are succeeding in producing oils with<br />

reduced levels of the more unsaturated acids.<br />

Extensive full-scale trials with a 'high oleic' sunflower oil (and low in linoleic acid) have<br />

proved its good performance in potato crisps. Rapeseed and soybean oils of modified composition<br />

suitable for frying are now available in limited quantity.<br />

Some snack food operations have already changed from palm olein to the high oleic sunflower<br />

oil despite its significantly higher price.This demonstrates the dynamic nature of the<br />

competition between the different oils and of their interchangeability.<br />

The reason for the decision to change is the perception that the more unsaturated sunflower<br />

oil is healthier. It is clearly important for the long term that research into creating a<br />

palm oil low in saturates and high in unsaturates should be successful.<br />

To take full advantage of the productivity of the oil palm, the world market has a clear<br />

demand for two types of palm oil - firstly, the present type of palm oil, so valuable in the<br />

production of consistent fats; but secondly an unsatisfied demand for a palm oil that is truly<br />

competitive in its characteristics with the liquid vegetable oils.


14<br />

CHAPTER 2: TESTS OF QUALITY<br />

Chapter 1 explained the chemistry of oils and fats, how this affects their use in foods, and<br />

why the special characteristics of palm oil are valued.<br />

In this chapter, we look at how the quality of vegetable oil is analysed – how quality of oil<br />

is defined at the time of purchase in global trade, in view of the need to protect against<br />

deliberate or accidental adulteration.<br />

It describes how analysis methods are standardised and applied in determining ‘quality’,<br />

which the dictionary defines as:<br />

a. An inherent or distinguishing characteristic, a property; essential character or nature<br />

b. Superiority of kind, degree or grade of excellence<br />

In practical terms, is the oil what it is supposed to be and is it in good condition? Both these<br />

aspects are defined by means of chemical analyses. For credibility, these must be carried out<br />

by qualified analysts using standardised procedures.<br />

STANDARD METHODS OF ANALYSIS<br />

The process of standardisation is elaborate and is organised by national bodies such as the<br />

British Standards Institute or <strong>American</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Chemists Society, or international bodies like the<br />

International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry, International Standards Organisation,<br />

or the Codex Alimentarius Commission set up under the United Nations.<br />

A number of reputable laboratories volunteer to take part in the study of a method. A<br />

‘recipe’ is circulated together with appropriate samples and the results are analysed statistically.<br />

If not within acceptable limits of agreement, the details of the ‘recipe’ are discussed,<br />

modified and further tests arranged. Eventually acceptable results are obtained and the<br />

agreed method is given official status.<br />

The Codex commission’s objectives are to agree on codes of practice and standards for<br />

food commodities in order to facilitate international trade. Technical committees develop<br />

the standards which are adopted at government level. Over 100 nations collaborate in the<br />

Codex system and its standards carry a great deal of weight in commerce. Codex stan-


dards deal with products in consumable condition and, therefore, mainly with refined oils.<br />

Olive oil is an exception, since it is mainly used for direct consumption as crude oil.<br />

15<br />

CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL DEFINITIONS OF IDENTITY<br />

Source of oil<br />

The first thing is to define the source of the oil. For example, soybean oil is derived from<br />

seeds of the soybean (Glycine max); olive oil from the fruit flesh of the tree Olea europea,<br />

and palm oil from the fruit flesh of Elaeis guineensis. Olive oil and palm oil are the only<br />

major vegetable oils derived from fruit flesh. All others are extracted from seeds.<br />

Iodine number<br />

All oils contain a mixture of fatty acids, both saturated and unsaturated.The proportion of<br />

unsaturated acids is a useful identity characteristic.The total number of unsaturated bonds<br />

is readily measured by the Iodine Value – literally the number of grams of iodine needed to<br />

react with the double bonds in 100gm of oil.<br />

Being natural products, oils show some variation due to variety and growing conditions.<br />

However, a range of Iodine Values normal for each oil can be established. For example,<br />

Codex gives these ranges for three oils:<br />

The <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Refiners Association of Malaysia (PORAM) has adopted the range for palm<br />

oil products in its standard specifications.<br />

Slip melting point<br />

The melting point is a useful measure of the physical properties of oil. Fats are mixtures of<br />

different glycerides, so they melt over a range of temperatures. A conventional method of<br />

obtaining a clear-cut result is used. The ‘slip melting point’ is obtained by filling a capillary<br />

tube with the sample in liquid form, crystallising it under precise cooling conditions, and


16<br />

then determining the point at which the sample rises in the tube when heated in a waterbath.The<br />

sample is not completely molten but a precise reproducible figure is obtained.<br />

• For palm oil, extensive surveys by the <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Research Institute of Malaysia (now the<br />

Malaysian <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board) have established a range of 33-39°C, also used in PORAM<br />

trading specifications.<br />

• PORAM and Codex have adopted a slip melting point of 24°C or less for palm olein,<br />

and 44°C or more for palm stearin. Codex also gives a point of 19.5°C or less for palm<br />

super olein.<br />

Composition of oils<br />

Table 1 gives compositional data obtained by gas chromatography for typical samples of<br />

palm oil and its fractions, as well as for soybean and olive oils. For simplicity only the main<br />

fatty acid components are specified.<br />

Chromatographic methods are also useful for analysing the minor components of oils. In<br />

the Vitamin E group of substances (tocols), these consist of saturated tocopherols and<br />

unsaturated tocotrienols (Table 2).<br />

Sterol composition of oils also reveals differences useful for identification (Table 3).


17<br />

CRUDE PALM OIL (CPO) QUALITY<br />

Different tests are needed to determine the condition of oils. Until the development of<br />

Malaysian refining capacity, palm oil was mainly traded internationally as crude oil. Basic quality<br />

specifications of free fatty acids (ffa, maximum 5%) and moisture and impurities (maximum<br />

0.25%) were adopted and are still used today for standard CPO.<br />

The 5% ffa limit for standard CPO is higher than would be acceptable for other vegetable<br />

oils.This is because the palm fruit contains a very active lipase (fat splitting) enzyme, which<br />

rapidly breaks down the triglycerides to a mixture of ffa, monoglycerides and diglycerides.<br />

The enzyme is released from the fruit cells when the fruit is over-ripe or when it is bruised.


18<br />

In practice, the 1,000 or more fruitlets in a bunch do not all ripen simultaneously, so<br />

it is likely that some will be over-ripe during harvesting; others will be bruised as the<br />

bunch falls, and the lipase then becomes active. Further bruising takes place in the various<br />

operations before the bunch is sterilised and the lipase is destroyed. If fresh fruit<br />

is taken directly to the laboratory from the field, cooked and pressed immediately it<br />

is possible to obtain oil with only 0.8% ffa, but this is not practicable on a manufacturing<br />

scale.<br />

However, a special quality crude oil is offered by some producers. It is obtained by harvesting<br />

somewhat early to minimise over-ripe fruit. Since oil synthesis in the fruit is very active<br />

towards the end of ripening, some loss of yield results. Bruising during transport is avoided<br />

by taking steriliser cages to the field for loading and sterilisation is carried out without delay.<br />

<strong>Oil</strong> with a maximum ffa of 2.5% and minimal oxidation is produced and is easier to refine.<br />

Moreover, lower ffa means also a lower content of mono- and di-glycerides which can<br />

cause difficulty in fractionation.<br />

Bleachability test<br />

A pale near-white colour is regarded as an important characteristic of well-refined oil.The<br />

bleachability of CPO in the refining process is largely determined by the extent of oxidation,<br />

which leads to the formation of persistent coloured products.<br />

European refiners use an empirically standardised bleaching test in the laboratory to estimate<br />

the bleachability of CPO. Malaysian refiners have adopted a more science-based<br />

procedure developed by PORIM, known as the Deterioration of Bleachability Index<br />

(DOBI).<br />

The DOBI test involves the measurement of the absorption of ultraviolet light by a solution<br />

of the oil at two different wavelengths:<br />

• One (A) is a measure of the unchanged carotene present (carotene is easily destroyed<br />

by oxygen).<br />

• The other (B) measures the concentration of certain oxidation products of the fatty acids.


The ratio of A to B is a sensitive indicator of the extent of oxidation. PORAM has adopted<br />

a minimum level of 2.30 as a standard.<br />

19<br />

Test for oxidation<br />

Two measures of the oxidation level in crude oil are commonly used – Peroxide Value and<br />

Anisidine Value.<br />

The peroxide value is a direct measure of the amount of oxygen that has combined<br />

at the double bonds of the fatty acids. In time these oxidised bonds are<br />

broken, resulting in short chain volatile compounds and residues of oxidised glycerides.<br />

These residues are measured by the Anisidine Value. A high figure is an<br />

indication that oxidation has taken place in the past, and there has been a loss of<br />

quality.<br />

The two are sometimes combined – 2 x Peroxide + 1 x Anisidine is defined as the Totox<br />

Value. While convenient, it entails some loss of information.<br />

The full specifications for special quality CPO are given in Box 1.<br />

REFINED PALM OIL QUALITY<br />

Fully refined palm olein and palm oil are the main exports today. The PORAM trading specifications<br />

for refined palm oil are shown in Box 2.


20<br />

The Codex Alimentarius has extensive specifications (Box 3), common to all vegetable oils<br />

traded as refined oils. Each figure represents the maximum specification.


21<br />

CHAPTER 3: QUALITY DURING TRANSPORT<br />

No commodity is improved by transport.The best that can be expected is that it should<br />

arrive in unchanged condition.<br />

Edible oils can suffer during transport in three ways:<br />

• Oxidation through contact with air, particularly at higher temperatures<br />

• Hydrolysis through the action of traces of water, catalysed by acidity or by enzymic<br />

action from microbiological contaminants such as moulds or yeasts<br />

• Foreign matter such as dirt or residues from previous cargoes<br />

Most of the major vegetable oils are transported as crude oils at ambient temperature.<br />

Malaysian palm oil is mainly transported in fully refined form. It needs to be kept warm to<br />

prevent excessive crystallisation. Any loss of quality has to be rectified by a second refinery<br />

treatment resulting in extra costs to the purchaser. Any chemical changes will occur faster<br />

at temperatures above ambient.<br />

In its early years, the <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Research Institute of Malaysia (PORIM, now the Malaysian<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board or MPOB) collected information on the extent and causes of quality<br />

changes during transport.The transport chain usually involves a number of steps.


22<br />

In some ports, unloading also involves the use of barges. At each stage the transfer involves<br />

pumps,pipelines and tanks where contamination by previous cargoes or foreign matter can occur.<br />

Each stage of the transport chain is under different management. In order to provide an<br />

assurance of good practice, independent surveyors are employed to approve the condition<br />

of the various facilities.<br />

PORIM undertook to obtain first-hand information by sampling and analysing oil at various<br />

stages of transport. Some results are summarised in Tables 1 to 3.<br />

The shipment to New Zealand (Table 1) arrived in unchanged condition.The Pakistan shipment<br />

showed some increase in acidity.The South Korea shipment showed appreciable oxidation<br />

which had occurred partly during the journey and further during transfer by barge<br />

at the port of arrival.<br />

Samples were taken from several ships’ tanks during a voyage and analysed on board (Table<br />

2). Measurements were made of the level of oxygen dissolved in the oil and of the peroxide<br />

value.


23<br />

The high iron content in the crude palm oil stearin catalysed oxidation of the oil, so that<br />

the dissolved oxygen was nearly all used up and oxidation was appreciable. The refined<br />

stearin had much lower iron content, and oxidation was quite moderate. A substantial proportion<br />

of oxygen remained in solution.<br />

Samples were drawn from a pipeline delivering oil into a shore tank at a foreign destination<br />

(Table 3).<br />

Clearly the pipeline was not clean, but contained some water and a quantity of some<br />

strongly coloured oil. From the rate of pumping it was calculated that the first 30-40 tonnes<br />

of product were sub-standard.<br />

As explained in Chapter 2, fully refined oil is expected to have a free fatty acid (ffa)<br />

content below 0.10%. Evidence from a number of shipments has shown that it is a<br />

case of the ‘the lower the better’. A follow-up study of 20 shipments showed that<br />

when the acidity was 0.05 or less at loading, then 75% landed with ffa below 0.10%.<br />

If the initial ffa was 0.05-0.10% (still within acceptable limits), only 20% landed with ffa<br />

below 0.10%.<br />

Inspection of some ships showed wide variation in conditions, from clean tanks with a perfect<br />

protective coating to those showing somewhat rusty surfaces. However clean the latter<br />

are, they catalyse oxidation reactions.<br />

The overall conclusion was that the effect of transport varied, with significant effects on oil<br />

quality in some instances.


24<br />

PREVENTING LOSS OF QUALITY<br />

<strong>Quality</strong> loss during transport is avoidable provided that exceptional care is taken in the<br />

cleanliness and condition of the equipment, and that access to the air is prevented.The latter<br />

requires the provision of nitrogen gas throughout the transport chain from the refinery<br />

to destination.<br />

Storage tanks and ships’ tanks are flushed with nitrogen before being filled, and a nitrogen<br />

atmosphere is maintained in the headspace above the oil. Gas is ‘sparged’ into the oil as it<br />

is pumped through pipelines.This involves fitting an inlet tube so that nitrogen is forced into<br />

the oil under pressure. Excellent results can be achieved, as seen in the examples in Tables<br />

4 and 5.<br />

Clearly nitrogen-blanketing largely prevented oxidation, but it also prevented any<br />

increase in acidity.This is because the ‘sparging’ removes some of the low level of water<br />

dissolved in the oil (no more than about 0.1%), which otherwise promotes some<br />

hydrolysis.<br />

Arrival of oils in perfect condition can be achieved, especially if the cargo is protected by<br />

nitrogen throughout. However, nitrogen use involves extra costs and this has prevented its<br />

use for the majority of cargoes. Still, the costs can be at least partly offset by avoiding any


25<br />

reprocessing to clean up the oil. At present only small quantities of oil are shipped with<br />

nitrogen protection. The reputation of Malaysian palm oil is enhanced when such quality<br />

maintenance is achieved, and the adoption of this handling procedure could form the basis<br />

of a brand image that could not at present be matched elsewhere.<br />

For speciality products shipped in smaller quantities, ISO tank containers may be used.<br />

These are stainless steel tanks conforming to specifications laid down by the International<br />

Standards Organisation (ISO).They hold about 21 tonnes of oil, have external heating coils,<br />

top and bottom discharge points and are easily cleaned.Their use is more expensive, but<br />

the likelihood of deterioration of the cargo is reduced.<br />

SHIPPING CONTRACTS<br />

The quality of Malaysian palm oil intended for export is controlled by government regulations<br />

and monitored by the MPOB. Issues of quality are at the forefront of shipping contracts<br />

and are dealt with in government and international regulations.<br />

The Federation of <strong>Oil</strong>s, Seeds and Fats Associations (FOSFA), based in London, prepares<br />

formal shipping contracts. Clauses relate to the quality and specification of the oil and the<br />

responsibility for cleanliness of the ship’s tank. The ship’s surveyor and the analytical<br />

chemists are expected to be members of FOSFA.The ship’s master is required to complete<br />

a certificate regarding the suitability of the tank, heating system and pipelines and<br />

the cleaning procedures used. The three previous cargoes carried in the tank must be<br />

specified.<br />

The surveyor in turn completes a certificate of the cleanliness and suitability of the ship’s<br />

tank. Loading and discharge procedures and the method of sampling for analysis are also<br />

laid down. FOSFA provides training courses for the junior and middle management of surveying<br />

companies.<br />

The FOSFA operating procedures emphasise the control of temperatures of the<br />

cargo.This is of particular importance for palm oil products. At ambient temperature,<br />

palm oil would set solid and become virtually impossible to unload. However, to keep<br />

it totally liquid, a temperature would be required which would risk a serious level of<br />

oxidation.


26<br />

FOSFA requires the temperature to be controlled according to minimum and maximum<br />

limits laid down by the International Association of Seed Crushers. Some crystallisation<br />

occurs during the voyage, and controlled reheating is therefore applied some time before<br />

discharge to raise the temperature by no more than 5°C/day, so that the oil arrives in a<br />

homogenous liquid condition.<br />

It is the surveyor’s responsibility to check that this condition has been reached at the time<br />

of arrival and sampling. In the past, disputes have arisen due to inadequate reheating. In consequence,<br />

the palm oil had partially fractionated into olein and stearin, and there were variations<br />

in composition of the oil throughout the tank.<br />

In the USA, the National Institute of <strong>Oil</strong>seed Products (NIOP) carries out functions similar<br />

to those of FOSFA. It prepares contracts, and its trading rules contain detailed requirements<br />

regarding the quality of the shipping operations.<br />

FOSFA also has recommendations for the handling temperatures for palm oil and palm kernel<br />

oil products. Substantially, the same temperatures are advised by Codex Alimentarius<br />

(Table 6).<br />

The <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Refiners Association of Malaysia has a shipping contract for processed palm<br />

oil, which is frequently used.The latest revision in 2002 uses the oil specification shown in<br />

Chapter 2. Other items relating to quality are essentially the same as those given in the<br />

FOSFA contract.


27<br />

CODE OF PRACTICE<br />

The quality aspects of transport were discussed at an international oils and fats technical<br />

conference in 1982. As a result a number of large industrial firms and some surveyors’<br />

organisations collaborated with PORIM in preparing an advisory booklet on transport. It<br />

covered design of pipework, tanks and heating systems, and operating procedures.<br />

As a further step, the Codex Alimentarius Committee on oils and fats was requested to<br />

put a Code of Practice for storage and transport into its programme of work.The advisory<br />

booklet was used as a starting point.<br />

The question of possible contamination by previous cargoes required detailed study. Most<br />

vegetable oil transport is from east to west, and ships carry a variety of chemical cargoes<br />

on the return trip. Contamination of edible oils with traces of previous cargoes is undesirable<br />

and may be dangerous.<br />

Discussion in the Codex Committee identified a number of questions to be answered, including:<br />

a. which cargoes are toxic;<br />

b. which products can be removed during a clean-up process of the oil;<br />

c. which products are absorbed by the tank coatings and how can they be removed; and<br />

d. what analytical methods are to be used.<br />

FOSFA was asked to co-ordinate the extensive work programme required to provide<br />

answers.<br />

Document CAC/RCP 36 entitled ‘Recommended International Code of Practice for the<br />

Storage and Transport of Edible <strong>Oil</strong>s and Fats in Bulk’ was issued by Codex in 1987 and most<br />

recently revised in 2005. It covers the design and operation of the facilities involved in the<br />

transport chain. An important recommendation is that the condition of the equipment<br />

involved in every transfer of the oil should be inspected by a qualified superintendent.<br />

Previous cargoes<br />

On the question of previous cargoes, it advised that the three previous cargoes carried in<br />

a ship’s tank should be declared. Previous immediate cargoes are divided into those that<br />

are banned and those that are acceptable. FOSFA adopts a similar ruling.


28<br />

The NIOP rule is different. It only lists acceptable prior cargoes. A limited list is permitted<br />

prior to the shipment of edible oil that may or may not be reprocessed before use, while<br />

a somewhat longer list is allowed for oils that are intended for reprocessing.<br />

These lists continue to be reviewed as necessary.<br />

The European Community (EC) has also adopted a positive list of acceptable previous cargoes,<br />

but believes that a negative list of banned immediate previous cargoes can cause confusion<br />

in administering the system.<br />

<strong>Oil</strong>s that are not to be further processed must be carried in tanks that are:<br />

a. of stainless steel, or lined with epoxy resin or similar coating; and<br />

b. have been used for foodstuffs on the three previous voyages.<br />

Where the oils are to be further processed, using tanks as in (a), only the immediate previous<br />

cargo must be foodstuff or from the permitted list. In due course an evaluation of the<br />

acceptable list will be required by the EC’s technical committee.<br />

The International Maritime Organisation (IMO) has a number of regulations which impact<br />

indirectly on the quality of transport. It is chiefly concerned with preventing pollution of the<br />

environment. Cargoes cause pollution if there is leakage due to an accident, and when tank<br />

washings are discharged.<br />

Vegetable oils are classified by IMO as hazardous, because they harm sea birds and marine<br />

life.They must therefore be carried in vessels with double bottoms and in tanks of stainless<br />

steel or suitable coatings. An exception is made for cargoes from destinations only served<br />

by smaller, older vessels.<br />

Recent experience indicates that contamination by previous chemical cargoes is rare.<br />

Occasional quality problems occur due to the ingress of sea water, resulting in elevated ffa,<br />

and also from overheating, resulting in some oxidation. Overheating may be due to a rapid<br />

heating-up process before discharge or from heat passing from adjacent tanks.


29<br />

CHAPTER 4: BAKERY PRODUCTS<br />

In the first three chapters, we discussed the chemical composition of fat, how its quality is<br />

measured, and how we can ensure that exports reach their destination in good condition.<br />

We will now consider the function of the fat in the food products.<br />

Nutritionally fat is an efficient source of energy, usually measured in calories.A given amount<br />

of fat yields nearly twice the calories produced by the same quantity of the other major<br />

components of foods, the proteins and carbohydrate (starch and sugar).<br />

Fats provide some essential dietary components, that is, those that cannot be synthesised<br />

in the body.These are Vitamins A and E, pro-Vitamin D – which is converted into Vitamin<br />

D in the body – and the fatty acids linoleic (2 double bonds) and linolenic (3 double bonds).<br />

A further function is to contribute to the flavour of the foods, both directly – for example<br />

in the use of butter or olive oil – and indirectly, as a result of chemical changes and interaction<br />

with other ingredients during cooking. Finally of particular interest to the food technologist<br />

is the part that fat plays in developing the structure of various food products.This will<br />

be discussed, first in relation to bakery products.<br />

AIR CONTENT AND THE ROLE OF FAT<br />

We do not generally appreciate that air is an important component of many foods. For<br />

example a loaf of white bread contains about 60% of air by volume. Without the air you<br />

would have a hard flat biscuit, the unleavened bread of the Bible.


30<br />

Before discussing the different types of bakery products we need to understand the nature<br />

of wheat flour, the major ingredient (Table 2).<br />

The protein content of wheat varies from 8-14% or more, depending on variety and growing<br />

conditions. Low protein ‘weak’ flours are used for cakes, and for most pastry and biscuit<br />

types. High protein ‘strong’ flours are needed for bread and puff pastry products.<br />

The most interesting component of the wheat flour protein is gluten. During mixing of<br />

dough it hydrates and, as mixing continues, it becomes elastic and stretches into thin filaments.<br />

When a product is baked the gluten dries, denatures and becomes tough.<br />

In cakes, we do not want a tough chewy texture, and the weak flour may be treated to<br />

reduce the activity of the gluten further.<br />

Cakes<br />

Our first example is a Madeira cake.The fat used in cake manufacture performs two important<br />

functions. Firstly it enables air to be incorporated in the batter, and secondly it contributes<br />

to the tender ‘short’ eating quality of the baked cake. Good aerating properties<br />

require a sufficient liquid oil content to enable air bubbles to be formed, and also the presence<br />

of solids in the form of small crystals (Figure 1).<br />

In a typical two-stage mixing process for a Madeira cake, the fat is first mixed thoroughly<br />

with about half of the flour and beaten to incorporate air. A Hobart-type of mixer fitted<br />

with a whisk type mixing arm is usually used both in the home and in the industry.The mix<br />

is aerated to 40-45% air. Examination under the microscope shows that the air bubbles are<br />

surrounded by fat.


31<br />

Next, the remainder of the flour and the aqueous ingredients are added and mixed.The air<br />

content of the batter has now been diluted to about 15%. Figure 1 is an electron micrograph<br />

of an air bubble in cake batter, magnified about 5,000 times. We are looking at the<br />

internal surface of the bubble, which has been cut in half.The surface consists of liquid oil<br />

and looks smooth: however it shows a number of sharp lines.These are edges of small fat<br />

crystals lying on the exterior surface of the bubble.The diagram in Figure 2 shows the need<br />

for small crystals that line the air cells efficiently. Large crystals would not be effective in<br />

containing and stabilising the air cells (Figure 2).


32<br />

Small crystals are ensured both by correct formulation of the fat blend and by its processing.<br />

A good shortening requires the fat to be in the ‘beta prime’ polymorphic<br />

form, in contrast to the large crystals of the ‘beta’ form.The difference is made clear<br />

under the optical microscope, using polarised light to show up the crystals (Figures 3<br />

and 4).


33<br />

The aspects of polymorphism of fats will be discussed in a later chapter.The word derives<br />

from the Greek for ‘many shapes’.<br />

Coming back to our well aerated cake batter, it is now ready for the oven. When<br />

baking starts and the temperature rises, water vapour is generated and goes into<br />

the existing air cells, as does the carbon dioxide from the baking powder. The air<br />

cells become larger. At this stage they are still surrounded by fat. As the temperature<br />

reaches about 40ºC the fat melts and the air bubbles move into the aqueous<br />

phase. Here the viscosity is increasing due to swelling and gelling of the starch, so<br />

the air bubbles are retained. Eventually the egg protein sets and the cake structure<br />

is fixed.<br />

Measurements under the microscope give air bubbles of an average diameter of 20 microns<br />

(1 micron = 1 millionth of a metre) in the batter; and in the baked cake, of 110 microns.<br />

So, they are still very small.The final air content is 65%. Figure 5 shows a slice of Madeira<br />

cake with its very fine air bubble structure.


34<br />

Three tested formulae for bakery shortenings are given in Table 3.These fats have proved<br />

successful both in cakes and in pastry products.


35<br />

Puff pastry<br />

Its distinctive character is derived from thin layers of a crisp pastry separated by large air<br />

spaces. Dough is made using a ‘strong’ flour of high protein content and a small proportion<br />

of fat, and is formed into a flat rectangle. A layer of special pastry margarine is then placed<br />

on half of the dough area.The other half of the dough is folded over and the parcel is progressively<br />

rolled down in thickness through a pair of pastry rollers.The dough is folded over<br />

once, turned through a right angle and rolled again.<br />

A complete sequence of rolling, folding and turning results finally in many thin layers<br />

of dough inter-leaved with layers of fat. This pastry is baked in a very hot oven. The<br />

steam generated within the dough is retained by the layers of fat and can only escape<br />

after it has lifted the thin layers apart. They then cook to give an attractive crispy<br />

nature.<br />

The properties of the fat must be rather special. It is essentially important that the fat<br />

does not mix into the dough during the rolling process. It must therefore be very<br />

resistant to work-softening. A high degree of plasticity and a somewhat high melting<br />

point is required. <strong>Palm</strong> oil and palm stearin are suitable components for pastry margarine.<br />

Figure 6 shows the effects of correct and incorrect processing of the dough. If there are<br />

too few ‘turns’, not enough layers are formed. If there are too many, the fat has worked<br />

into the dough. Figure 7 shows puff pastry samples prepared in a comparison of two<br />

fats.<br />

Formulae for a puff pastry fat<br />

Successful formulae based on hydrogenated palm oil are in use but have a content of the<br />

undesirable trans fats. It should be possible to use palm stearin instead, for a trans-free<br />

product.<br />

Table 4 shows tested formulae.The third column shows the unusually high melting point of<br />

fat that is required to get good performance in a hot climate. Column 4 gives a softer blend,<br />

which is suitable for the preparation of flaky pastry products.


36<br />

Short pastry and biscuits<br />

The major components of these products are flour, fat and sugar in varying proportions,<br />

together with a small proportion of water. Minor components such as dried fruit or chocolate<br />

chips are added to biscuits to give a particular character.The eating properties – the<br />

texture – of biscuits and pastry vary over a wide range (Figure 8).


37<br />

Think for instance of a ginger biscuit with a crisp tough character and, at the other extreme,<br />

a shortbread biscuit which has a crumbly ‘dissolve in the mouth’ character. In most products<br />

the air spaces play a minor role in the structure.


38<br />

The different textures are obtained by controlling the extent to which the gluten is enabled<br />

to develop. By using a high proportion of fat and ensuring that the flour particles are well<br />

coated with fat, the access of water to gluten can be minimised. A very short, melt-in-themouth<br />

texture is obtained, as in Scotch shortbread. With a lower proportion of fat and<br />

more intense mixing, the gluten is developed to some extent and a somewhat tougher or<br />

crispier texture achieved.<br />

The characteristics of fat are also important. If liquid oil is used, it will fail to coat the flour<br />

particles efficiently because it has a tendency to form droplets. A fat blend must have small<br />

crystals and a smooth easily spreadable texture. <strong>Palm</strong> oil is very effective as a major component<br />

of such a blend.


39<br />

CHAPTER 5: AERATED DAIRY PRODUCTS<br />

Dairy and vegetable oil based creams can be whisked or whipped in such a way that at<br />

least an equal volume of air is incorporated. As a result the products have a more attractive<br />

texture and mouth-feel.<br />

Whipped cream<br />

Whole milk contains about 4% of fat which is present as small globules averaging 7-8<br />

microns in diameter. Each globule is enclosed by a coating or membrane of milk protein.<br />

Cream is traditionally made by skimming the upper layer from milk that has been allowed<br />

to stand. In effect the fatty emulsion phase has been concentrated.<br />

In modern practice this concentration is achieved efficiently in a centrifuge and can be taken<br />

to the stage of single cream (18% fat) or double cream (about 42% fat). If the cream is agitated<br />

sufficiently the fat globules impact on each other and stick together. In due course the<br />

fatty phase becomes more or less continuous and butter is obtained.<br />

If the cream is agitated in such a way that air is incorporated, then it is possible to form a<br />

rigid structure containing about 50% by volume of air. The continuous phase which gives<br />

the product stability is the fat that has coalesced during the agitation. If homogenised cream<br />

is agitated in the same way, a whipped cream of similar air content is obtained. During<br />

homogenisation the individual fat globules are broken down to a size of about 1 micron.<br />

During the aerating process the small globules cluster together and impart sufficient<br />

strength to the air-cell walls to produce a stiff aerated cream. The relatively low melting<br />

point of butterfat means that the aerated cream has limited stability up to about 25ºC in<br />

the European summer and in warmer climates.<br />

Imitation cream<br />

Imitation creams are made by homogenising an emulsion of vegetable fat in skimmed milk<br />

with added sugar. Their behaviour on aeration is then very similar to that described for<br />

homogenised dairy cream. By an appropriate selection of the fat used, aerated structures<br />

of greater stability than real creams can be produced.


40<br />

A very suitable fat for ambient temperatures up to 25ºC is hardened palm kernel oil<br />

(HPKO) with melting point 35ºC and Iodine Value 1.0. For higher ambient temperatures, a<br />

formula of particular interest consists of fully hydrogenated palm kernel oil together with<br />

palm stearin (Iodine Value 19). In this, 66 parts of the HPKO and 34 parts of the palm<br />

stearin are interesterified.This process causes all the fatty acids to change places in a random<br />

manner and alters the melting properties of the mixture.The whipped cream made<br />

using this fat was stable at a temperature of 35ºC. For even higher temperatures an<br />

increase of a few percent of the stearin proportion can be used.<br />

Curves for the solid fat content of HPKO and of the blend are shown in Figure 1.The shaded<br />

area of increased solids in the blend is responsible for its better stability at the higher<br />

ambient temperature, but without affecting the mouth-feel.


41<br />

The structure of the cream is shown in an electron micrograph for a cross-section of an<br />

air bubble (Figure 2).The air cell has a continuous surface layer of fat which is then lined by<br />

numerous intact fat globules. The ‘stand up’ strength of the whipped cream is mainly<br />

dependent on the fat globules.<br />

ICE CREAM<br />

Ice cream is made with dairy cream or an emulsion of vegetable fat with skimmed milk.<br />

Table 1 compares a typical composition of ice cream with that of milk.


42<br />

There is considerable flexibility in the formulation of ice cream.Thus luxury grades containing<br />

15% or more of fat and also reduced fat content products have been marketed. In the<br />

latter type of product, the desired creaminess effect on the palate can be obtained by<br />

changes in the thickeners used.<br />

Ice cream is also a good vehicle for introducing nutritional supplements such as vegetable<br />

sterols which lower blood cholesterol levels, or minerals such as calcium and magnesium<br />

which strengthen bones.<br />

Processing steps in developing ice cream structure<br />

1. Prepare the mix.<br />

2. Pasteurise it to destroy harmful bacteria.<br />

3. Homogenise the hot mix to break up the fat into small globules (0.04-3 microns)<br />

and make the emulsion.<br />

4. Cool the emulsion to 4ºC and store for 2-3 hours or more to allow it to settle<br />

down. Time is needed for the fat to partly crystallise and the milk proteins to coat<br />

the surface of the fat globules.<br />

5. Freeze and aerate the mix<br />

The freezing takes place in a scraped surface heat exchanger. It is the most dynamic stage<br />

in the processing and results in the development of the final structure.The following events<br />

occur in the freezer:<br />

• An increase occurs in the collision frequency of the fat globules due to mechanical<br />

agitation.<br />

• Ice crystals force the fat globules into the decreasing spaces occupied by unfrozen<br />

material, and probably cause shape distortion.The development of ice crystals and<br />

the mechanical action in the freezer cause some breakdown of the emulsion.<br />

• Air is introduced into the mix and dispersed into fine bubbles by the intense agitation.<br />

The partial destabilisation of the emulsion in the freezer is now generally accepted as<br />

important in the formation of a stable ice cream structure.


43<br />

On leaving the freezer about 50% of the water in the mix has turned to ice and the structure<br />

is fully formed.The ice cream is filled into packages, hardened in a cold store at -30ºC<br />

and is then ready for distribution. It is generally held at -17ºC or -18ºC until retailed.<br />

Structure of ice cream<br />

The final structure is similar to that obtained for whipped cream; stability is provided partly<br />

by fat globules lining the air cells but also by the ice in the continuous phase.<br />

Figure 3 shows an electron micrograph of ice cream.The frozen sample has been cut across<br />

and what we see is half of an air bubble. It is lit from above, so that the top part is in shadow,<br />

the lower part being brightly lit.The surface is smooth, consisting of a layer of liquid oil.<br />

The ‘bumps’ in the surface are small fat globules (A) sitting on the outside of the oil layer.<br />

An ice crystal (B) can be seen protruding into the air bubble.The scale is indicated by the<br />

one micron bar. The air bubble is about 5 microns in diameter, while fat globules are 0.5<br />

microns or smaller.


44<br />

The layer of liquid oil forming the surface of the air bubble is derived from fat globules<br />

which were broken open during the intense agitation in the freezer. Figure 4 shows such<br />

broken fat globules.<br />

The dimension of some components of ice cream, as measured under the optical and the<br />

electron microscope, are shown in Table 2.<br />

By the time the product has reached the refrigerator at -18ºC, about 85% of the water is<br />

present as ice and it might be thought that the ice alone would be sufficient to maintain<br />

the structure. However, this is not the case.


45<br />

If an ice cream is made with liquid vegetable oil, a different picture is seen in the electron<br />

microscope (Figure 5).The air bubble is not lined by intact fat globules, and none can be<br />

seen in between the air cells.<br />

The frozen ice cream soon starts to lose air during storage, shrinks in the container and<br />

becomes unattractive. Evidently a good ice cream fat needs to have a solid fat content during<br />

processing.Table 3 gives the proportion of liquid oil remaining of some satisfactory fats<br />

at +5ºC and -5ºC, the temperature before and after freezing.


46<br />

CHAPTER 6: BUTTER ALTERNATIVES<br />

It is no exaggeration to say that the invention and subsequent widespread manufacture<br />

of margarine initiated the development of the oils and fats processing industry as we<br />

know it.<br />

Up to the 19 th century the fats available for food use in North Europe were solely those<br />

produced in the farm yard. Contemporary English cookery books referred only to butter,<br />

beef fat and lard.The industry consisted of the rendering of carcase fats and a limited fractionation<br />

of beef fat to produce stearin for candles. 1<br />

In Mediterranean Europe, olive oil had been the main edible oil in use for some 5,000 years.<br />

Rapeseed was crushed for oil in North Europe, but was only suitable for inedible applications<br />

such as lamp oil. <strong>Palm</strong> oil, imported in small amounts from West Africa since 1780,<br />

was likewise of inedible quality.<br />

The Industrial Revolution in Europe resulted in the movement of the population from<br />

the countryside into the cities, resulting in shortages of food from time to time. In<br />

1865 there was a shortage of butter in Paris and in supplies to the army.This led the<br />

emperor Napoleon III to offer a substantial prize for the invention of a suitable butter<br />

substitute.<br />

French pharmacist and inventor Hyppolyte Mege Mouries took up the challenge. In his<br />

experiments, already in hand in 1867, he noticed that cows starved of food continued to<br />

produce milk. Although reduced in volume, the milk still contained fat. He argued that the<br />

cow was able, by means of enzymes in the udder, to transform its high-melting body fats<br />

into the softer butterfat.<br />

He took carefully rendered beef fat, allowed it to crystallise at about 30ºC and separated<br />

the still liquid portion.This was called ‘oleo-margarine’.The name was taken from oleic acid<br />

from the Greek word for ‘pearl’, referring to the lustrous appearance of the fat when solid.<br />

1<br />

Candles were a valuable commodity in the home, without these, activity in the long winter evenings was very<br />

limited. Coalmine owners supplied candles to underground workers and had to colour them green to prevent theft.


47<br />

The oleo-margarine was melted and mixed with 30-35% skimmed milk, to which 0.1% of<br />

minced cow’s udder was added.The whole was stirred for 2-3 hours at the body temperature<br />

of the cow.The resulting emulsion was churned as if it was real cream.Then chilled<br />

water was added to crystallise the fat. Free water was removed and the fat kneaded until<br />

no more water separated. During the kneading some salt was added. The end product<br />

looked like butter.<br />

The addition of cow’s udder was thought to help the emulsification, but it was soon abandoned.<br />

Mege Mouries won the prize: he patented his process in France, then in the UK in<br />

1869 and in the USA in 1873. He started manufacture in Poissy near Paris, but the enterprise<br />

did not succeed. However the process was licensed to Jurgens in Holland in 1871 and<br />

production also soon started in Germany, Austria, Scandinavia and the USA.<br />

The product proved popular, but soon local supplies of beef fat ran out. Imports from the<br />

USA and Argentina were used. Already in the 1870s some patents described the use of<br />

10-20% of vegetable oils. Initially, carefully prepared unrefined groundnut oil and coconut oil<br />

were used but, as the refining process was developed, other vegetable oils became suitable.<br />

Hydrogenation<br />

The invention of hydrogenation of unsaturated bonds and its development for edible oils<br />

early in the 20 th century widened the ingredients available. Any liquid oil could be hydrogenated,<br />

in other words hardened, to a chosen extent. So, the industry was no longer<br />

dependent on beef fat to provide the structure of margarine.<br />

New ingredients became available, in particular whale oil and fish oils, both of which needed<br />

partial hydrogenation. Although palm oil had been imported for over 100 years from<br />

West Africa it was of very high acidity and suitable only for industrial uses. Some palm oil<br />

of superior quality then became available from Africa that was suitable for the edible fats<br />

industry. A reliable quality of palm oil has been available from Malaysia and Indonesia since<br />

the 1950s.<br />

The dairy industry in many countries reacted strongly to the competition from margarine<br />

and lobbied for restrictive regulation. For example, in Germany, butter and margarine could


48<br />

not be sold on the same premises. Retailers had to erect partition walls and doors to satisfy<br />

the letter of the law.<br />

In Italy a campaign by agricultural organisations led to a ban on the manufacture of margarine<br />

for household use in 1934, followed by a complete ban in 1937. This was relaxed<br />

after the war, but restrictive controls remained until food laws were unified in the European<br />

Union.<br />

A number of countries required the addition of sesame oil as a ‘marker’. A small percentage<br />

was added and could be easily detected in the laboratory, thus preventing margarine<br />

from being mixed with butter. Elsewhere a small amount of starch was added for the same<br />

purpose.<br />

Developments in the USA<br />

The industry in the USA had a particularly hard struggle under both federal and state<br />

restrictions. Margarine manufacture started in 1874; at this time butter was mainly<br />

made on the farm, packed and distributed in small wooden barrels to be portioned<br />

out and wrapped by the retailer. Margarine was handled in the same way, and it was<br />

easy to mix both in the shop. Initial attempts to regulate the trade at state level were<br />

ineffective. Control was achieved under federal law in 1886 requiring proper labelling,<br />

introducing a tax on margarine and the purchase of licences by manufacturers and<br />

dealers.<br />

Later regulations required margarine to be packed and labelled in 1-1b blocks in the factory.<br />

In 1902 a tax of 10 cents/lb was imposed on margarine coloured yellow, making it more<br />

expensive than butter at times.Attempts to colour it with natural palm oil were disallowed.<br />

For a long time margarine could be bought white, with a sachet of colour which the consumer<br />

had to knead into the block. Additional 10-cent taxes were imposed at state level.<br />

Examples of state and federal tax stamps are shown in Figure 1.<br />

During World War II shortages lead to greater use of margarine and a generally favourable<br />

consumer attitude. As a result, federal taxes and licence fees were removed in 1950. Today<br />

the dairy and margarine industries coexist peacefully in the USA and elsewhere.


49<br />

NUTRITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS<br />

Margarine was accepted as a nutritionally satisfactory basic food. Early regulations controlled<br />

the minimum fat and maximum water content and allowed fortification with<br />

Vitamins A and D. In the 1950s concerns over heart disease led to advice to reduce the<br />

intake of cholesterol, present in animal products, and therefore there was a move towards<br />

vegetable oil formulations.<br />

An emphasis developed on the use of ingredients containing the essential linoleic and<br />

linolenic acid which cannot be synthesised in the body.They are the precursors for longer<br />

chain acids of 20 carbons with 5 double bonds and 22 carbons with 6 double bonds. These<br />

are used in the body to make essential hormones and brain components.


50<br />

Linolenic acid is present in rapeseed and soybean oils, which can easily be used in margarines<br />

and spreads.The 20 and 22 carbon acids are present in fish oils.They are very sensitive<br />

to oxidation and need special handling if they are to be used.<br />

Trans fatty acids<br />

Partly hydrogenated oils were generally used, having a significant content of trans fatty acids<br />

(trans fats).Their adverse health effects are now universally accepted.The position is well<br />

stated by Dr A Aro, an experienced researcher who reviewed the results of many studies:<br />

“A high intake [of trans fats] affects the ratio between LDL- and HDL- cholesterol in a way<br />

that is unfavourable compared with all other fatty acids.”<br />

LDL-cholesterol is the ‘bad’ compound associated with an increase in the risk of heart disease,<br />

whereas HDL-cholesterol is the ‘good’ one that removes excess cholesterol.<br />

The body of evidence against trans fats has grown. Further studies have indicated that they<br />

raise the levels of triglycerides and the tendency towards inflammation; both are risk factors<br />

in heart disease.<br />

On the regulatory front, the USA has implemented since January 2006 new labelling regulations<br />

requiring the trans fats content in food products to be declared. The consumer<br />

now understands that trans fats are undesirable, thereby inducing strong moves by manufacturers<br />

to reduce the use of hydrogenated oils.<br />

The New York City government has gone further to tell restaurants and food suppliers to<br />

reduce trans fats to the low level of 0.5g/serving.This has had a knock-on effect, since the<br />

wholesale suppliers to the restaurants have had to reformulate their products, and in practice<br />

would then use the new formulae for all their manufacture. Other local authorities in<br />

the USA may follow suit.<br />

In Denmark, legislation has restricted the trans fats content of all food oils and fats to below<br />

2% since 2003; no adverse effect has been noted on the quality of food products.<br />

In Canada it became mandatory to give the trans fats content on product labels in<br />

December 2005. A government task force recommended that regulations should be made


51<br />

by 2008 but, in June 2007, the government decided instead to request industry to reduce<br />

the trans fats content voluntarily to the lowest possible levels within two years, to avoid legislation<br />

being imposed.<br />

A consequence of these moves against hydrogenated fats is that the use of palm oil products<br />

continues to increase, to provide the required solid fat content.<br />

Reduced-fat spreads<br />

Another nutritional problem led to the development of reduced-fat spreads to meet the<br />

need to reduce calorie intake to combat the rise in obesity. These products cannot be<br />

called ‘margarine’ but need to behave and look like it. A part of the fat content is replaced<br />

by water, and in order to maintain the desired consistency, small amounts of thickening<br />

agent dissolved in water are used.The consumer can then apply a generously thick layer to<br />

a slice of bread, but with fewer calories.<br />

Vegetable sterols<br />

The most recent development with a nutritional objective is the enrichment of<br />

spreads with vegetable sterols. It has been known for many years that the consumption<br />

of vegetable sterols reduces the absorption of dietary cholesterol, and therefore<br />

reduces blood cholesterol level (which is a risk factor for heart disease if it is<br />

elevated).<br />

The vegetable oils consumed normally contain about 0.3gm sterol, but this is not sufficient<br />

to be useful. An additional daily intake of about 2gm reduces blood cholesterol by around<br />

10%. Products containing vegetable sterols are now readily available.<br />

‘Conjugated’ linoleic acid (CLA)<br />

An interesting recent finding is that one particular type of trans fats actually has beneficial<br />

health effect. CLA has one of its double bonds in the ‘cis’ and the second in the ‘trans’ position.<br />

It is naturally present in small proportions in animal fats, which are nowadays consumed<br />

in lesser amounts. CLA inhibits tumour growth and the risk of blocked arteries, and<br />

tends to reduce body fat. Canola oil has been interesterified with CLA and used at the<br />

Malaysian <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board (MPOB) to prepare margarine on a pilot-plant scale. It contains<br />

over 10% CLA.


52<br />

FORMULATION OF FAT BLENDS<br />

How does the food technologist set about formulating products such as margarine or bakery<br />

fat? Two basic properties of the finished product are important – the proportion of solid<br />

fat present at temperatures relevant to its use: and the shape and size of the crystalline solids.<br />

Individual triglycerides may have melting points as high as 60ºC or as low as -10ºC. Any<br />

natural fat is a mixture of a number of triglycerides and will contain a percentage of solid<br />

glycerides at intermediate temperatures. This percentage can be readily measured<br />

because the solid glycerides respond to a magnetic field differently from the liquid. By<br />

measuring at a range of temperatures we can construct a curve of solid fat percentage<br />

against temperature.<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil<br />

We need to look at palm oil and palm kernel oil in more detail. <strong>Palm</strong> oil is readily fractioned<br />

into a hard portion (stearin) and a more liquid portion (olein).The process involves holding<br />

the oil at a chosen temperature to allow partial crystallisation to occur, then separating<br />

the olein, usually in a filter press. Depending on process conditions, the properties of the<br />

fractions can be varied.<br />

Curves for the solid fat content (SFC) of palm oil and its products are shown in Figure 2<br />

and compared with butterfat.<br />

The curves for butterfat and palm oil are remarkably close, but there is one important point<br />

of difference. At body temperature (36-37ºC), butterfat is completely molten, but palm oil<br />

has 4-5% solids.This means that it may leave a greasy feel on the palate. Below 15ºC, butterfat<br />

becomes rather hard. As we know, butter taken straight from the refrigerator is not<br />

easy to spread.What is clear from the curves is that palm oil is suitable as a major component<br />

of margarine formulae.<br />

The two curves for palm stearin (2 and 3) show that a variety of properties can be<br />

obtained, enabling the technologist to choose the most suitable. Curve 4 shows a standard<br />

palm olein with appreciable solid content at 15ºC and 20ºC, unlike unsaturated vegetable<br />

oils such as soybean and rapeseed oils.To obtain improved properties, a double fractionation<br />

process is required (Curve 5), but it makes this olein more expensive.


53<br />

The SFC curves for palm kernel oil (PKO) products are shown in Figure 3. PKO has high<br />

solid content at 15ºC and 20ºC and is a firm solid, but above 20ºC it melts rapidly. This<br />

behaviour is even more pronounced in palm kernel stearin, and leads to some special applications<br />

at high value, which are described in Chapter 7.<br />

PKO is a valuable ingredient in margarine blends, in particular when palm oil is also used.<br />

Mixtures of palm oil with PKO have some difficulty in crystallising because the diverse chain<br />

length fatty acids do not fit in together easily. Figure 3 shows this effect in terms of the liquid<br />

oil content. A mixture of 60% palm oil and 40% PKO is still liquid at temperatures<br />

where each of the components on its own would be solid.<br />

When used in a margarine formula, such mixtures improve the melting characteristics in<br />

the mouth, bringing it closer to the behaviour of butter.The mixture is technically described<br />

as ‘eutectic’, derived from the Greek, meaning ‘good melting’.<br />

An economically major ingredient for margarine and spreads is obtained by interesterifying<br />

palm stearin (60%) with palm kernel olein (PKOL, 40%). The stearin component<br />

provides the necessary firmness in the end product, while the PKOL ensures good melt-


54<br />

in-the-mouth properties. The margarine will have a content of short and medium chain<br />

fatty acids similar to those in butter.


55<br />

It is clear that palm oil – which is free of trans fats – offers a direct way of obtaining the<br />

solid content needed to give margarine its consistency. A second way is to prepare fully<br />

hydrogenated oil, such as soybean or rapeseed, and interesterifying it with a proportion of<br />

liquid oil.This is normally more expensive.<br />

WHAT IS THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY?<br />

The desired consistency of margarines and spreads can be defined as being spreadable at<br />

the temperature of use. Margarines have a physical behaviour in between that of liquids –<br />

which flow when poured – and solids, which move as a whole when pushed.<br />

They have an internal structure that consists of a network of very small crystals of the solid<br />

triglycerides. This three-dimensional network holds the liquid oil component and also the<br />

emulsified aqueous phase.The network is rigid enough so that the product looks solid but<br />

is easily disturbed when ‘pushed’.Then the liquid component takes over, and the margarine<br />

flows until the pushing stops.<br />

‘Spreadability’ means we can cut a portion of margarine from a block or out of a tub, apply<br />

it to a slice of bread and spread it. Physicists define the force needed to make the margarine<br />

flow as ‘yield value’.This can be measured with simple equipment and used to compare<br />

the spreadability of different products. The spreadability changes quite rapidly with<br />

temperature. It may be said that the spreadability of butter is not ideal. It is good between<br />

15ºC and 25ºC, but outside this range is either too hard or too soft in a warm climate.The<br />

margarine manufacturer can improve this.<br />

Experience shows that a SFC between about 15% and 35% is suitable. See Figure 5 for SFC<br />

curves of various products.<br />

A second factor is that the solid fat must be in small crystals. As we have seen in relation<br />

to shortenings, this requires the beta prime polymorphic form (Figure 3, Chapter 4).<br />

Problems arose in Canada when margarine was formulated with hydrogenated rapeseed<br />

oil, the local produce. It transformed during storage to the beta form, giving an unsatisfactory<br />

appearance and a gritty feel on the palate (Figure 6).


57<br />

The reason for the transformation is that the canola oil contains almost solely fatty acids of<br />

18 carbon atoms. When the margarine was reformulated using a proportion of palm oil<br />

(with palmitic acid of 16 carbon atoms) the change to the beta form was made difficult due<br />

to the diversity of chain lengths, and the product was stable in the prime form.<br />

HISTORIC MARGARINE FORMULAE<br />

Table 1 gives a number of published formulae. Apart from the first, the formulae all contain<br />

trans fats from the hydrogenated component.<br />

Experimental formulae that have satisfactory characteristics and are free of trans fats have<br />

been developed in the laboratories of MPOB (Table 2).


58<br />

While manufacturers do not generally reveal the blend formulae in use, analyses show that<br />

today, margarines in Europe are substantially free of trans fats and that there have been big<br />

reductions also in the USA. At the same time, their imports of palm oil and stearin have<br />

increased.<br />

Improved margarine processing<br />

Mege Mouries’ original process was soon improved.The margarine emulsion was pumped<br />

in a thin layer onto a rotating drum, which was chilled internally with ice water or a refrigerant.<br />

Crystallisation in the desired small crystals was initiated.The partly crystallised mass<br />

was scraped off into an open trough fitted into a rotating shaft fitted with beater arms.The<br />

fully crystallised fat was rested for a time and packed.<br />

This processing is today essentially unaltered, but now it is carried out within a scraped surface<br />

heat exchanger (Figure 7) and then a second cylinder – the ‘worker unit’ – where fat<br />

is intensely mixed (Figures 8 and 9). After a period in a resting tube, the product is ready<br />

for packing; today, usually into 250gm or 500gm packs or plastic containers.<br />

Table 3 gives prices of products on the shelves of a London supermarket.The second column<br />

gives the price calculated for the fat component (i.e. the nutritional element).


60<br />

Production and consumption<br />

Margarine production has shown continuous growth, with some increase in rate during and<br />

after World War I. During World War II, the high quality of the product was recognised and<br />

when rationing was relaxed, production went up. The slower increase from about 1960<br />

was due to the lower fat content of the increasing market for reduced fat spreads. Figure<br />

10 shows world production data for margarines and spreads.<br />

It may be noted that Denmark has the highest per capita consumption of margarines and<br />

spreads. This is because its important dairy industry exports much of the production.<br />

Consumption in some Western countries is listed in Table 4.<br />

VANASPATI<br />

In the Indian subcontinent, butter very quickly develops an off-flavour mainly due to<br />

hydrolytic breakdown of the glycerides at the high ambient temperature. It has therefore<br />

been traditional to market ‘butterfat ghee’. This is made by melting butter and boiling off<br />

the water layer. A desirable flavour develops.


61<br />

In 1930 Hindustan Lever developed vanaspati as a vegetable oil-based alternative.<br />

In order to find acceptance among consumers, some butter flavour was added and<br />

the appearance of butterfat ghee was imitated. When the melted butterfat cools<br />

slowly, it crystallises in rather coarse grains, up to 1-2mm across, with a little free oil<br />

remaining.


62<br />

Figure 11 is a photograph of the crystals in a thin layer of vanaspati. This appearance is<br />

regarded as important by the consumer and therefore had to be achieved in the alternative<br />

product.<br />

Government regulations initially required the melting point to be no higher than 37-38ºC but<br />

subsequently the range was widened to 41ºC. A suitable product was obtained by partial<br />

hydrogenation directed towards the production of trans fats in preference to saturated acids.<br />

Similar products are used in the Middle East and Egypt, and by expatriate Indian populations<br />

in other countries. Most of these countries rely on imported oils for a large part of<br />

their consumption. The market for vanaspati in Pakistan is 1.7 million tonnes, while the<br />

world market was estimated at 5-6 million tonnes in 2009.


63<br />

Formulation<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil has the desired melting point for vanaspati. However, when crystallised slowly, it<br />

forms small crystals and a high proportion of liquid oil. A better appearance can be<br />

obtained with a blend containing some hydrogenated oil, or by interesterification. Some satisfactory<br />

experimental formulae with zero trans fats are shown in Table 5.<br />

In the 1980s, when vanaspati was largely based on hydrogenated vegetable oils, the trans<br />

fats content was high with a figure of 53% for India, more than 50% for Iran and 27% for<br />

Pakistan. However, as palm oil became available, a lower trans fats value of 3.7% was reported<br />

in Pakistan.<br />

More recently, as consciousness of the adverse effects of trans fats spread, Iran introduced<br />

a limit of 20%, to be reduced further with time. In India, adverse comments appeared in<br />

the press in April 2009 about analyses of products in the market with 23-24% trans fats.<br />

At present the formulations used in Pakistan are varied. Due to the high summer temperatures<br />

a firmer product is required (Table 6).


64<br />

The processing of vanaspati is very simple.The warm blends are filled into large tins, typically<br />

28lb, and placed in a temperature controlled store at 21-22ºC until cold.


65<br />

CHAPTER 7: THE LAURIC OILS<br />

The oil palm is the only crop yielding two different types of oil.The yield of palm kernel oil<br />

(PKO) is about 10% of the oil derived from the flesh.The most interesting feature of the<br />

two oils is the substantially different make-up of the fatty acids.<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil, like most vegetable oils, contains mainly fatty acids with 16 or 18 carbon atoms.<br />

PKO typically contains 48% lauric acid with only 12 carbon atoms and another 9-10% of<br />

fatty acids with shorter chain length.The only similar oil available commercially is coconut<br />

oil.These two are often described as lauric oils.<br />

Figure 1 shows how the production and export of the two oils have developed over 20<br />

years. There is a striking difference. The availability of PKO has grown in line with the<br />

increase in palm oil supplies. The volume of coconut oil has, however, remained about<br />

static.


66<br />

The oil palm and coconut palm are members of a large family of some 3,000 species.<br />

Several hundred of them are native to the Amazon basin in South America, and some have<br />

been exploited by the native populations for their oil content.<br />

Chemical analyses of kernel oils from a number of these species show that they are all lauric<br />

oils, and this is probably true of all the palm family. Attempts to commercialise some of<br />

these kernel oils have failed. The exception is babassu oil – a few thousand tonnes have<br />

occasionally appeared in the market.<br />

The babassu is a large palm of the Amazon forest and it grows in dense natural stands.The<br />

kernel forms only 10% of the fruit, so it must be extracted on site from the nut for<br />

economies of transport. However, it is encased in a thick and extremely hard shell, which<br />

presents a technical challenge. It has been estimated that 1-2 million tonnes of oil per year<br />

are not being utilised. A commercial evaluation of the oil has indicated that its properties<br />

are intermediate between PKO and coconut oil and that it would serve similar applications.<br />

Table 1 shows the fatty acid composition of the lauric oils – note the contrast with palm oil.<br />

Oleochemical demand<br />

The content of medium and short chain length fatty acids renders the lauric oils of great<br />

interest to the oleochemical industry.Worldwide, it uses up to half of the lauric oil supplies.


67<br />

The demand from both the food and oleochemical industries means that lauric oils usually<br />

fetch a premium over other vegetable oils.The rapid development of the oleochemical<br />

industry in Malaysia is indirectly illustrated by figures for domestic disappearance of 53,000<br />

tonnes in 1986, rising to 1.41million tonnes in 2009, most of which was converted into<br />

chemical products for export.<br />

Probably the biggest chemical use of lauric oils is in soap making, as has been practised<br />

since the time of the ancient Egyptians. A good soap formula consists of 75-<br />

80% tallow, palm oil or palm stearin and 20-25% lauric oil. <strong>Function</strong>ally, the shorter<br />

chain fatty acids impart good foaming while the long chain fatty acids give the foam<br />

persistence.The foam suspends particles of dirt and is important for a good cleansing<br />

action.<br />

Other technical uses require, as a first step, the formation of fatty acid compounds such as<br />

esters, fatty alcohols, a variety of nitrogen compounds and metal soaps. Further chemical<br />

modification is often required to reach end products with a long list of applications in a variety<br />

of industries.The list includes personal care products, surface active agents, anionic and<br />

nonionic detergents, fabric softeners, lubricants, mineral processing aids and corrosion<br />

inhibitors.<br />

FOOD USES OF PKO<br />

The solid fat content curves for PKO products are shown in Figure 3, Chapter 6. The steep<br />

melting curve of PKO in comparison with palm oil should be noted. This is even more<br />

marked in palm kernel stearin (PKSt).<br />

When eaten, foods with a high content of PKO give rise to a pleasant cooling sensation<br />

on the tongue due to heat being rapidly abstracted as the oil melts.This may<br />

be noted in biscuits with a cream filling, in whipped cream and some confectionary<br />

products.<br />

Margarines and spreads<br />

Another feature of PKO behaviour of particular value in margarine formulations is its formation<br />

of eutectic mixtures with palm oil, as shown in Figure 4, Chapter 6.


68<br />

Dairy products<br />

PKO is the preferred replacement for butterfat in various dairy products because:<br />

1. Countries like Malaysia, which have an inadequate supply of fresh milk, import<br />

skimmed milk powder and make recombined ‘filled’ milk with locally available<br />

vegetable oil.The product may be marketed in cans or as UHT processed in<br />

tetrapak cartons.<br />

2. There is less risk of deterioration during transport of skimmed milk powder than<br />

of full cream milk powder.<br />

3. Filled milk is cheaper.<br />

4. In some products, better performance can be achieved with a ‘tailor-made’ fat blend.<br />

There are long-standing recommendations from the International Dairy Federation for the<br />

specifications of the oils to be used.These include clean flavour, low acidity and oxidation,<br />

and low levels of trace metals and impurities. Refined PKO has no difficulty in meeting these<br />

specifications.<br />

Some ‘filled’ milk products are used as a powder – for example, coffee ‘whitener’ and coffee<br />

‘creamer’ used in drinks dispensers and provided in sachets in restaurants or fast-food<br />

outlets.These products are required to have a long shelf life; therefore, fully hydrogenated<br />

PKO (with zero trans fats) is preferred. PKO is a very suitable component for ice cream<br />

and is widely used.<br />

There is a limited market for cheese made with vegetable oil.A large part of cheese flavour<br />

is derived from the short chain fatty acids in butterfat. A satisfactory mozzarella cheese can<br />

be made using a blend of 70% palm kernel olein (PKOL) with 30% PO. This blend has a<br />

similar solid fat content to butter but is cheaper.The fatty acids of PKOL help to develop<br />

the desirable flavour. Mozzarella cheese is an important ingredient in pizzas. Danish-type<br />

cheeses have been made using a blend of 50% palm oil, 40% coconut or PKO and 10%<br />

rapeseed oil.


69<br />

Frying<br />

PKO and PKOL are suitable for frying. A particular use is for frying nuts intended for snack<br />

foods or in bakery products. PKOL blended with palm olein is useful for shallow pan frying,<br />

but not deep fat frying, because the mixture tends to foam.The high stability of PKO<br />

also makes it suitable for the ‘popping’ of popcorn.<br />

Biscuits<br />

A blend containing 40% PKOL with palm olein forms a eutectic mixture similar to that<br />

described for PKO with palm oil. It finds applications as spray oil for certain types of biscuit<br />

such as cream crackers. The purpose is to provide an attractive shiny appearance and to<br />

act as a moisture barrier so that the crackers remain crisp.The high stability to oxidation<br />

of the blend is important.<br />

PKO is used in other types of biscuits such as Bourbon Creams, where two biscuits are sandwiched<br />

with a layer of PKO-sugar mixture. In the manufacturing process, the warm fluid filling<br />

is deposited mechanically on one biscuit and the second biscuit is placed on top. As<br />

PKO crystallises very rapidly, the timing of the process must be judged so that there is still<br />

enough liquid to ‘glue’ on the second biscuit.<br />

Dietary product<br />

A special use of PKO is in the manufacture of medium chain triglycerides (MCT).This<br />

is a dietary product used for people with a metabolic problem, who are unable to<br />

digest ordinary fats. MCTs are made by first fractionating the fatty acid components<br />

of PKO and then re-synthesising those of the shorter chain lengths into triglycerides.<br />

A blend of 80-90% of capric (10 carbons) and 10-20 % of caprylic (8 carbons) is preferred.<br />

A major area of use for PKO – and one where considerable added value can be obtained<br />

– is in fats for confectionery use.This is discussed in Chapter 8.


70<br />

CHAPTER 8: CONFECTIONERY FATS<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil and palm kernel oil (PKO) are, in different ways, valuable ingredients in confectionery<br />

products. The best starting point to understand the special character required in<br />

confectionery fats is cocoa butter, the fat of the cocoa bean.<br />

When the Spaniards arrived in America in the 16th century they found the Aztecs were<br />

making a popular drink called 'chocolatl' from powdered roasted cocoa beans. Recipes also<br />

contained maize and flavouring like chilli or vanilla.<br />

Research has shown that this drink was in use more than 3,500 years ago. Ancient pottery<br />

vessels found in southern Mexico, where the cocoa tree is native, contained brown<br />

residues. When analysed, the residues were found to contain theobromine, an important<br />

substance specific to the cocoa bean.<br />

The Spaniards introduced the bean and its use as a drink to Europe. It became a luxury<br />

item favoured by the aristocracy. Chocolate bars, as we know them, were developed in the<br />

18 th century, with Fry of Bristol being a pioneer.<br />

The chocolate bar requires extra fat over and above the natural fat content of the bean.<br />

The added fat is obtained by pressing roasted cocoa beans, leaving a cocoa powder with a<br />

much reduced fat content.<br />

CHARACTERISTICS OF CHOCOLATE<br />

Chocolate has a number of attributes valued by the consumer. It has an attractive, smooth<br />

but shiny appearance.The chocolate bar has a firm solid texture and breaks cleanly when<br />

a bite is taken. It melts rapidly in the mouth, releasing its complex flavour.<br />

The flavour is developed in two stages.After harvest the beans are allowed to ferment naturally<br />

for 2-3 days before being dried. Later they are roasted and ground, resulting in the<br />

cocoa mass used in chocolate.<br />

The appearance, texture and melting behaviour depend on the properties of the fat,<br />

whereas the flavour is derived mainly from the cocoa solids.


The formulae for chocolate vary quite widely between manufacturers, but Table 1 shows a typical<br />

example of plain chocolate and the composition of the roasted ground bean (cocoa mass).<br />

71<br />

Cocoa butter is much more expensive than other vegetable fats - at the time of writing, it<br />

is 2 1 / 2 times the price of palm oil.Therefore, there is interest in the use of alternative fats<br />

which must not, however, alter the physical appearance and melting behaviour of the<br />

chocolate.<br />

There are two possibilities: firstly to replace some or all of the added cocoa butter in<br />

chocolate; and secondly to make a more economical product using an alternative fat with<br />

cocoa powder. Each approach has limitations.<br />

The concept of chocolate is protected legally in many countries. In the European Union (EU)<br />

the amount of vegetable fat that may be added is restricted to 5% of the end product.<br />

The properties of PKO products are quite similar to those of cocoa butter, as is evident<br />

from the solid fat content (SFC) curves shown in Figure 1.<br />

Unfortunately the lauric oils are not compatible with cocoa butter.They form eutectics, similar<br />

to that formed with palm oil.The chocolate is softened and loses its desirable crispness.<br />

Cocoa butter<br />

The composition of cocoa butter is very simple (Table 2).The fatty acids are also the major<br />

components of palm oil, albeit in different proportions. However, early attempts to make<br />

confectionery fat from palm oil were unsuccessful.


72<br />

In 1956, researchers at Unilever obtained a patent for a cocoa butter equivalent (CBE) fat;<br />

in other words, a fat that can be mixed with cocoa butter in any proportion without changing<br />

its hardness or melting behaviour.<br />

This achievement required first a detailed knowledge of the triglycerides present in cocoa<br />

butter. Typically three major components 1 made up 85% of the fat: POP (18%); POSt<br />

(39%); and StOSt (28%).<br />

These glycerides are symmetrical, with the unsaturated oleic acid placed on the glycerol<br />

molecule in the middle position between the two saturated fatty acids.This proved to be<br />

an essential feature of a compatible fat.<br />

1<br />

P = palmitic acid, St = stearic acid, O = oleic acid


73<br />

The fatty acids are of similar chain length and identical structure, resulting in the characteristic<br />

sharp melting behaviour of cocoa butter. <strong>Palm</strong> oil contains two of these glycerides in<br />

useful concentration, i.e. POP 29% and POSt 5%. They can be concentrated by a partial<br />

crystallisation and filtration to separate the higher melting portion and a second crystallisation<br />

at a lower temperature to remove the more unsaturated portion.<br />

The resulting palm mid-fraction (PMF) forms about 20% of the original palm oil and contains<br />

typically 57% POP, 11% POSt and 2% StOSt. PMF is miscible with cocoa butter but<br />

has a lower melting point and, to match its characteristics, it needs to be blended with<br />

another fat rich in StOSt.<br />

A number of seeds from tropical trees have a suitable fat; in some cases the desired component<br />

has to be concentrated by fractionation.Their content of the important glycerides<br />

is shown in Table 3, together with cocoa butter.<br />

Seed fats<br />

It is not possible to prepare blends which exactly match the main glycerides of cocoa butter,<br />

but blends are available that are completely compatible with cocoa butter (Table 4).<br />

In terms of availability, all the seed fats listed in Table 3 (except PMF) present some difficulty.<br />

Illipe nuts are obtained from tall forest trees growing in remote parts of Borneo.The trees do<br />

not flower every year and the harvest of nuts can vary from nil to 50,000 tonnes. Attempts


74<br />

to grow them in plantations have not succeeded. Furthermore, they grow in rainforests and<br />

the harvest is gathered from the ground, so a varying degree of biodegradation occurs.<br />

Shea nuts are also gathered from the ground in the rainforests of West Africa.The oil content<br />

is 44-55%, but includes some undesirable components and the oil is difficult to refine.<br />

Sal nuts are collected from forest trees in India. Supplies of kokum fat are small, but its high<br />

content of StOSt is valuable. Most mangoes are consumed as fresh fruit, so kernel collection<br />

is only feasible from those that are industrially processed.<br />

Cocoa butter from different sources shows some variability - the Brazilian product is softest,<br />

while Malaysian cocoa butter is the hardest. At least some of this variability is due to<br />

climatic conditions. This was proved by a very elegant experiment, in which heating was<br />

provided to raise the temperature of half of a tree by a few degrees during the period of<br />

fruit formation.The warmer part of the tree produced significantly harder fat.<br />

Hardness at room temperature is a highly desirable characteristic, provided the melting at<br />

mouth temperature is still rapid. It is possible to improve the behaviour of Brazilian cocoa<br />

butter by using a CBE rich in the StOSt glyceride, such as kokum fat.The EU legal definition<br />

of chocolate permits the addition of vegetable fat from the list shown in Table 3 at a<br />

level of 5% of the finished product, equivalent to about 15% of the fat content. Legislation<br />

varies elsewhere.<br />

Improving chocolate behaviour<br />

Since the price of CBE fats is often half or less than that of cocoa butter, such additions<br />

represent a worthwhile saving and can help improve the behaviour of the chocolate.


The formula of dark chocolate (Table 1) can be modified by using 7 parts of cocoa butter<br />

and 5 parts of CBE as the added fat.<br />

75<br />

Products containing more than 5% CBE may no longer be called chocolate. They are<br />

described as super coatings. All the added cocoa butter can be replaced by CBE or, to go<br />

further, a low-fat cocoa powder (containing 11% cocoa butter) can be used in place of<br />

cocoa mass together with a higher level of CBE.<br />

A large part of today's market for chocolate is for milk chocolate, in which usually there is<br />

less cocoa and a large part of the overall flavour is given by the milk solids and fat. Butterfat<br />

contents of 5-20% or even higher are used in different quality products.The butterfat softens<br />

the texture of the chocolate. By selecting a CBE fat such as Blend 4 or 5 in Table 4, a<br />

firmer product is obtained.<br />

CRYSTALLISING OF CHOCOLATE<br />

Molten chocolate is a suspension of the solid ingredients in liquefied fat.To obtain the shiny solid<br />

surface, a special method of crystallising the fat is used.The chocolate is cooled slowly, with constant<br />

stirring until it thickens. It is then carefully warmed a few degrees and allowed to set.<br />

The science behind this process is fascinating. Although the glyceride composition of cocoa<br />

butter is very simple, its crystallising behaviour is very complex. It can go into six different<br />

arrangements of the glycerides in the crystals, with increasing melting points (Table 5).<br />

The desired form giving a shiny surface is Form V. During the crystallising process, a mixture<br />

of the forms develops. By reheating the mass to just below the melting point of Form V, the<br />

less stable forms melt. Subsequently the remaining crystals act as nuclei to induce recrystallisation<br />

in Form V.<br />

Transition to Form VI, which is the most stable form, can be induced by temperature fluctuations<br />

during storage. Formation of Form VI, which is characterised by larger crystals, leads<br />

to some fat crystals appearing on the surface of the chocolate, giving it a grey appearance<br />

called 'chocolate bloom'.While this is harmless, it is unattractive and consumers may think<br />

it indicates mould. As the Form VI develops further the chocolate loses its smooth texture<br />

and becomes gritty on the palate.


76<br />

Figure 2 shows electron micrographs of all six forms. At the thousand-fold magnification<br />

used, the difference between Forms V and VI is dramatic.The last section shows the crystals<br />

of bloom on a bar of chocolate, clearly of Form VI.


77<br />

CONFECTIONERY FATS FROM PKO<br />

PKO has the rapid melting characteristics required in a confectionery fat, but its melting<br />

point (28°C) is too low for a direct replacement of cocoa butter in chocolate.<br />

Figure 1 shows the SFC curves of cocoa butter and various PKO products.The stearin prepared<br />

from PKO has a solid content profile very close to cocoa butter. Hydrogenated<br />

stearin (having virtually zero trans fats) is also suitable for chocolates, especially in hot climates.<br />

Because PKO products cause an unacceptable softening of the chocolate, they can be used<br />

only if the cocoa butter content is 5% or less of the product. This means using a low-fat<br />

cocoa powder. A typical formula using palm kernel stearin (PKSt) as a cocoa butter replacer<br />

(CBR) is shown in Table 6.<br />

The total fat content is 32.5%, of which 1.5% is cocoa butter contributed by the cocoa<br />

powder. Figure 3 shows chocolate made with hydrogenated PKSt.<br />

PKO products can develop off flavours if a fat splitting enzyme (lipase) - derived from contamination<br />

by yeast or mould - is present.The lipase splits off some fatty acids and the short<br />

chain acids characteristic of PKO have a strong soapy flavour.<br />

Contamination can be introduced by an ingredient such as milk powder or as a result of<br />

poor hygiene. Precautions need to be taken by testing ingredients and ensuring good<br />

hygiene.This drawback does not arise when a non-lauric confectionery fat is used.<br />

Other CBRs<br />

Fats with a suitable sharp melting behaviour can be made by partial hydrogenation of oil


78<br />

high in oleic acid. <strong>Palm</strong> olein is a good starting material, although other fats are also used.<br />

It is necessary to use a catalyst and hydrogenation conditions that maximise the formation<br />

of trans-oleic (elaidic) acid.<br />

A typical product has about 18% trans fats and only a small increase in the saturated stearic acid.<br />

However, it does not fit in well with current recommendations to minimise trans fats in foods.<br />

Coatings for ice cream<br />

Ice cream bars and lollies (stick confectionery) coated in chocolate are very popular.They<br />

are handled at a low temperature (below -10°C) from manufacture to retail sale. A true<br />

chocolate is very brittle under these conditions and often flakes off.<br />

Suitable fat blends are specially formulated according to the method of use. For bars a palm<br />

oil-PKO blend can be used, the lower melting eutectic being an advantage here.<br />

For stick confections a PKO or coconut oil blend with liquid oil may be used.The manufacturing<br />

process involves dipping the ice cream into the coating, withdrawing it and, in some<br />

cases, applying a layer of crushed nuts or crisp biscuit crumbs.The coating must be 'tacky'<br />

to permit adhesion of the layer, and must set immediately before being packed. The oil<br />

blend is subtly adjusted to the timing of the process.


79<br />

CHAPTER 9: FRYING OILS<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil and palm olein are widely used for frying because they are economic and effective.<br />

However, it is of primary importance for every business to understand the competition<br />

it faces.This chapter describes the development of alternative oils in the context of the<br />

technical requirements for satisfactory frying oil.<br />

Most cooking processes are carried out at the boiling point of water (100°C).This is true<br />

even in oven baking. Although the oven temperature is well above 100°C, the high moisture<br />

content of food, such as meat joints and cake batter, means that the food itself does<br />

not get above 100°C except for the surface layer, which develops a brown crust and an<br />

attractive flavour.<br />

Similarly during frying, which is carried out with the oil heated to a temperature of 170-<br />

180°C, the food itself gets no hotter than about 100°C except on its surface. Frying in the<br />

kitchen may be done in a shallow pan or in a deep pan. In the case of the shallow pan, a<br />

little oil is used.The food is cooked on one side, turned over and cooked on the other side.<br />

Virtually all the oil is absorbed by the food.<br />

Some kinds of food, for example potato chips or French fries, are best cooked fully<br />

immersed in a deep pan full of oil. A small proportion is absorbed and the rest is kept<br />

for re-use. Deep pans are used in fast-food restaurants everywhere, while snack foods<br />

such as potato crisps and instant noodles are manufactured in large continuous frying<br />

baths.<br />

Inevitably, over time, some chemical changes take place in the oil. Initially these contribute<br />

to the desirable taste of the cooked food. However, over time, some oxidation<br />

of the oil takes place, occurring mainly at the unsaturated double bonds of the fatty<br />

acid chains. The resulting changes produce an unpleasant taste as the oil has become<br />

rancid. Eventually some polymerisation occurs, the viscosity becomes higher and more<br />

oil is absorbed into the food.When the quality of the food is affected, the used oil has<br />

to be discarded and replaced. Clearly this has an important effect on the economics<br />

of use.


80<br />

Two main factors control the useful life of frying oil:<br />

• The first is good practice in its use.The temperature must be controlled, the<br />

equipment kept clean and the correct oil level maintained. During frying, oil is<br />

absorbed by the food product and therefore removed from the pan. It is replaced<br />

by fresh oil, so maintaining quality. Clearly a high rate of oil turnover is desirable.<br />

• The second is the choice of frying oil.The susceptibility of an unsaturated fatty<br />

acid to oxidation increases with the number of double bonds in the chain. Linoleic<br />

acid (2 double bonds) oxidises 10 times more rapidly than oleic acid (1 double<br />

bond), while linolenic acid (3 double bonds) oxidises at least 20 times more rapidly<br />

than oleic.<br />

Therefore oils with more than 3% linolenic acid are not regarded as suitable for<br />

deep-fat frying.Vegetable oils all contain some minor components, the antioxidants,<br />

which inhibit the action of oxygen on the unsaturated bonds.<br />

The fatty acid composition of palm olein is shown in Table 1 on page 81. It has a very low<br />

level of the sensitive linolenic acid and a moderate level of linoleic acid. The other main<br />

components - palmitic and oleic acids - are highly stable to oxidation. In addition palm oil<br />

and olein are relatively rich in protective antioxidants especially the Vitamin E tocotrienols.<br />

These good properties have been recognised. It is estimated that globally some 10 million<br />

tonnes of palm oil and palm olein are used annually in restaurants, fast-food outlets and<br />

industrial deep-fat fryers.There is also substantial domestic use.<br />

Nutritional guidelines<br />

The high content of the saturated palmitic acid undoubtedly contributes to the stability of<br />

palm oil in frying, but is often questioned with regard to its nutritional benefits, especially in<br />

terms of blood cholesterol modulation.<br />

With increasing understanding of the association between diet and health, many countries<br />

have published nutritional guidelines for their populations.There is broad agreement among<br />

developed countries that fat intake should be no more than 30% of total energy (current<br />

fat consumption in the West is about 35-37% of energy).


81<br />

Within that 30% it is recommended generally that saturated fatty acids (SFA) should be no<br />

more than 10% of total energy intake, with polyunsaturated (PUFA) at 7-10% and monounsaturated<br />

(MUFA) at 10% or more.<br />

The recommended level of SFA refers to the total amount of fat consumed. Competitive<br />

marketing considerations have led to a desire for the lowest possible SFA content in oils<br />

used for frying. Some commodity oils fit this specification quite well, for example soybean<br />

oil (SFA 15%) and rapeseed oil (SFA 7%).<br />

However they also have high levels of PUFA, and especially of linolenic acid (>7%) and<br />

therefore lack stability at the frying temperature. As a result, plant breeding programmes<br />

for these oils and others have been undertaken to develop frying oil with a fatty acid composition<br />

that could confer higher stability.


82<br />

Ideal specifications<br />

It would be instructive to first draft a specification for frying oil that meets as far as possible<br />

the current nutritional and technical optima.<br />

The following requirements need to be met:<br />

• Linolenic acid less than 3%, as low as possible<br />

• Linoleic acid - a good fried flavour needs about 10% while higher levels can lead to<br />

off flavours due to oxidation<br />

• Saturated acids below 15%<br />

• Oleic acid 65-70%, can be higher<br />

More precisely:<br />

• Saturated acids 10-15%<br />

• Oleic acid 65-75%<br />

• Linoleic acid 15-20% (I would suggest 10-15% at most)<br />

• Linolenic acid 1-2%<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil and palm olein, in their current form, are excellent frying fats. However, given the<br />

desire for higher oleic varieties and efforts to reduce saturates content, palm olein of<br />

higher unsaturation - obtained through multiple fractionation - is becoming increasingly<br />

available.<br />

Through process innovations, it is possible to obtain palm olein with unsaturated fatty<br />

acid content (mostly oleic) in excess of 62% of its composition. Advanced research,<br />

especially through hybrid selection or genetic modification, has demonstrated the<br />

potential to develop palm olein with a fatty acid composition that mirrors olive oil. Such<br />

a composition would be competitive against the new varieties of frying oils described<br />

next.<br />

MODIFIED OILS<br />

Several modified oils have been produced using conventional plant breeding techniques<br />

and tested in frying trials. We will now review results of these breeding programmes and<br />

of any practical frying results reported in using the modified oils.


83<br />

Modern analytical techniques enable a single seed to be sampled and its fatty acid composition<br />

to be determined while the seed remains viable. If therefore, the analysis reveals an interesting<br />

variation from the standard composition, the seed can be used for further breeding.<br />

Furthermore, when the crop is an annual one, it is possible by the use of greenhouses and<br />

artificial lighting to produce three generations per year. Rapid progress can be made<br />

towards a new product. In contrast, the oil palm requires 3-5 years before the oil from a<br />

new plant becomes available for testing and, furthermore, the replanting of a large area<br />

would require some years compared to an annual crop.<br />

Sunflower oil<br />

A thorough collaborative project was carried out from 1994-1996 between different<br />

research centres in the European Union to test the frying properties of High Oleic<br />

Sunflower <strong>Oil</strong> (HOSFO). <strong>Palm</strong> olein was used in the trials as the reference oil.The composition<br />

of the oils used is shown in the first three columns of Table 1.The last column shows<br />

the composition of Nusun, an equivalent product in the USA.<br />

The oils were used to prepare, on an industrial scale, potato crisps and pre-fried frozen<br />

French fries.The products were submitted to extensive analytical tests and to tasting tests<br />

before and after storage.<br />

The conclusion was that the HOSO was as good as palm olein for both the French fries<br />

and potato crisps.The storage life of the potato crisps was shorter than when palm olein<br />

was used, but adequate for retail purposes.


84<br />

Today HOSO is increasingly used for snack food frying in Europe, either replacing palm olein<br />

or used in a blend with it. Consumption figures for the high oleic oils are not available in Europe<br />

but in the USA, 200,000 tonnes/year of the equivalent Nusun is currently in use. However, a<br />

significant premium accompanies HOSO, curtailing its use for many low-cost foods.<br />

Rapeseed oil<br />

A high oleic rapeseed oil has been developed by the Dow chemical company, under the<br />

name Natreon. Its composition in comparison with typical commercial oil is shown in Table 2.<br />

The most important feature of the Natreon composition is the reduction in the highly-sensitive<br />

linolenic acid.The oil was compared in domestic scale deep-fat frying of potatoes with<br />

HOSO and palm olein.<br />

The conclusion, after a number of analytical tests and tasting of both the used oils and the<br />

French fries, was that the three oils were comparable. The potatoes still had acceptable<br />

taste after the oil had been used for 66 hours. No production figures are available for high<br />

oleic rapeseed oil, but it is in commercial use.<br />

Soybean oil<br />

Experimental quantities of soybean oil with various modified compositions have been produced<br />

(Table 3). Small-scale frying trials were conducted with bread cubes, potato crisps,<br />

French fries or tortilla chips.The modified oils all performed better than the standard oil.<br />

Significantly better flavour and storage performance were reported for the oils with the<br />

lowest linolenic acid content. In one trial, oil with 0.8% performed better than one with<br />

2.0%.This result provides good evidence for the recommendation for a minimal content of<br />

linolenic acid. The oil with raised oleic and low linolenic acid gave very good results. The<br />

only production figure reported for Asoyia was about 10,000 tonnes in 2009.


85<br />

Peanut oil<br />

Peanut oil has long had the reputation of being excellent as frying oil for snack foods.<br />

However, some cultivars of peanuts are being grown commercially in the USA in which<br />

oleic acid content is increased and the linoleic acid decreased.<br />

Standard oil typically has 53% oleic acid and 27% linoleic acid and, in addition, the saturated<br />

long chain acids arachidic (0.5%), behenic (2.5%) and lignoceric (1.0%), with 20, 22 and 24 carbon<br />

chains respectively. High oleic cultivars have 76-81% oleic acid and only 3-5% linoleic acid.<br />

The modified oil is more stable to oxidation but the linoleic acid content is too low for optimum<br />

'fried' flavour development. Behenic and arachidic acids are unique fatty acids occurring<br />

in peanut oil.Their nutritional implications at high levels of consumption are still unclear.<br />

Cottonseed oil<br />

Standard cottonseed oil contains 28% saturated acids (mostly palmitic), 17.5% oleic acid<br />

and 52-56% linoleic acid. One strain has been produced in Australia with 77% oleic acid,<br />

the increase being mainly at the expense of the linoleic acid content.The oil is more suitable<br />

for frying.<br />

Other oils<br />

Modified oils have been produced from three other commercial oilseed crops but are not<br />

yet commercialised as far as can be ascertained.Their compositions are given in Table 4.<br />

The modified corn oil and safflower oil fit the ideal specifications for frying oil. Neither of<br />

the modified linseed oils is good for frying, one with still too much linolenic acid and the<br />

other with high linoleic acid content.


86<br />

It may be concluded, therefore, that palm oil and palm olein will meet growing competition<br />

from other oils, despite higher cost.The latter have the advantage that they can be grown<br />

in a wide range of temperate climates.<br />

One practical way of improving the properties of palm olein has been demonstrated in a<br />

project carried out at the Malaysian <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board. A good quality palm olein was interesterified<br />

with methyl oleate.The product was fractionated to give a new olein with Iodine<br />

Value of 81 and a cloud point of -1.5C.The oil had oleic acid (60.5), linoleic acid (16.0%)<br />

and saturated acids (22.6%), quite comparable with the liquid oils.<br />

Blended oils<br />

Blended oils provide the best cost-benefit opportunity to produce frying oil with optimised<br />

fatty acid composition. Such blends can be made with two or more commodity oils.<br />

Work has been reported from Iran on two-component blends of palm olein with rapeseed<br />

(canola) oil, olive oil and corn oil, and on three-component blends of canola/palm<br />

olein/olive and canola/palm olein/corn oil. In each case canola was 75% of the blend.The<br />

frying performance of the blends was superior to that of canola, especially the 3-component<br />

blends. In India coconut oil was blended with sesame or palm olein. The latter had<br />

the better frying performance.<br />

In most cases, it has been demonstrated that palm oil and/or palm olein could be one of<br />

the major components, blended with any of the commodity seed oils that are otherwise<br />

limited in their usefulness for use as frying fats. The palm oil component significantly<br />

improves the keeping properties of the blends and the proportions can be adjusted to give<br />

the desired clarity during storage.


87<br />

CHAPTER 10: LOW TRANS FATS FORMULAE<br />

It is useful to bring together the low trans fats formulae proposed earlier, with new published<br />

studies relating to a wide range of food products.<br />

The product formulae that will be discussed have met the laboratory test for functionality<br />

and in some instances have been adopted for manufacture. However, they may<br />

well require minor modification for specific market requirements. In any case, they<br />

should properly be submitted to a test market, as would normally be done for any new<br />

product.<br />

The physical characteristics of palm oil products are shown in Figure 2, Chapter 6 with<br />

those of butterfat for comparison. It is apparent that palm oil products are suitable as major<br />

components of food fats.<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> stearin is an ideal high melting component (of zero trans fats content) to provide consistency<br />

in place of hydrogenated oils. The process of interesterification is often the best<br />

way to incorporate palm stearin in a blend with other oils. By the use of high temperature<br />

and a catalyst, the fatty acids become detached from the glycerol backbone of the fat molecule<br />

and re-attached in a random manner.<br />

For example, if palm stearin is reacted together with a suitable proportion of soybean oil,<br />

a semi-solid fat results with a consistency similar to butter.The change in physical behaviour<br />

is illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 on page 87, which relate to a practical application using palm<br />

stearin and palm kernel olein.<br />

BAKERY SHORTENINGS<br />

1. The Malaysian <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board (MPOB) has processed on a pilot scale a number of zero<br />

trans fats shortenings. In each case, the performance was assessed by comparison in a<br />

standard cake-baking test with a high quality commercial shortening. Some trans-free<br />

shortening formulae are given in Table 3, Chapter 4.<br />

2. Workers in Denmark have published formulae for a conventional and a liquid shortening<br />

for cakes (Table 1).


88<br />

3. Belgian workers have proposed an interesterified blend of 30 parts soybean oil with 70<br />

parts of palm stearin (melting point 55.5°C, Iodine Value 34.8) as a basis for margarine<br />

and also shortenings.<br />

4. <strong>American</strong> workers have been accustomed to formulating mainly with various grades of<br />

hydrogenated soybean oil, which result in high trans fats content. Several methods for<br />

reduced or zero trans fats products have now been proposed:<br />

• The use of a hard stock of 50% fully hydrogenated (therefore zero trans) soybean<br />

oil interesterified with 50% soybean oil: When this hard stock was blended with an<br />

equal quantity of soybean oil, the resulting shortening had a solid content profile<br />

close to commercial products. However, no practical baking tests have been<br />

reported.<br />

• Blends with suitable properties for a bakery shortening were obtained by<br />

interesterifying 15 parts fully hydrogenated soybean oil with rapeseed oil and palm<br />

stearin (melting point 53.7°C) in various proportions.<br />

• 71% rapeseed oil and 29% stearic acid were interesterified: 52 parts of this were<br />

blended with 33 parts palm mid-fraction and 15 parts cottonseed oil.This blend<br />

was made into margarine which was comparable with two products in the market.


89<br />

• Partly hydrogenated oils were prepared by a special process which gave lower<br />

trans fats content. Canola, soybean, safflower and sunflower oils were used. Some<br />

hydrogenation was done with a conventional nickel catalyst, followed by a second<br />

step using a special platinum catalyst.When blended with soybean oil to get a solid<br />

fat content (SFC) suitable for spreads and also shortenings, the product had trans<br />

fats content of 2% or less.<br />

• 25% fully hydrogenated soybean oil interesterified with 75% palm oil, alternatively<br />

80% soybean oil interesterified with 20% fully hydrogenated soybean oil: The<br />

products are diluted with 20 parts soybean oil for tub margarine.<br />

5. Canadian workers interesterified 40% palm stearin with 60% palm kernel olein.These are<br />

both the less valued products of the respective fractionations. Figure 1 shows the SFC


90<br />

profile before - and Figure 2 after - interesterification.The undesirable long 'tail' of the<br />

blend, which would give poor eating properties, has been eliminated.<br />

6. An approach similar to the Canadian example has been to interesterify palm stearin with<br />

palm kernel oil.<br />

MARGARINE AND SPREADS<br />

Some trans-free margarine formulae are given in Table 2, Chapter 6.<br />

In recent years the market for spreadable fats has moved strongly towards reduced-fat<br />

spreads. The MPOB has published some suitable formulae. For soft blends suitable for<br />

plastic tubs the range of 25-50% palm oil with 75-50% sunflower oil is suitable. For packets,<br />

formulae within the range of 80-75% palm oil, 10-15% sunflower oil and10-0% palm<br />

kernel oil are recommended. Similar blends using interesterification also have the right<br />

properties.<br />

In Chapter 1, we indicated that the practical approach to obtaining low and zero trans<br />

products is by incorporating either palm stearin or fully hydrogenated liquid oil, often coupled<br />

with interesterification.This approach is now being adopted very widely.<br />

VANASPATI<br />

Vanaspati was developed in India in 1930 as a substitute for butterfat ghee. It was made<br />

from partially hydrogenated groundnut oil and cooled so that it crystallised in large granules<br />

with little free oil, to simulate the character of butterfat ghee.<br />

Analyses from India, Pakistan and Iran in the 1980s indicated a high trans fats content of<br />

30-50%. A high level of palm oil in vanaspati can substantively reduce or even eliminate<br />

trans fats.<br />

In India, little palm oil is used in vanaspati. A recent analytical survey revealed levels of<br />

23.3% and 23.7% trans fats in two popular brands.These results received adverse comment<br />

in the Indian press.The country's labelling regulations only require a declaration of<br />

the range of trans fats content. In one case, 8-33% is declared which is not very helpful<br />

to the consumer.


Indian workers have proposed two trans-free blends incorporating palm-based products<br />

(Table 2).<br />

91<br />

The granular crystals desired are readily obtained in interesterified blends, as shown in Table 3.<br />

Low and zero trans fats vanaspati formulae currently in use in Pakistan are detailed in<br />

Chapter 6.<br />

INDUSTRIAL FRYING<br />

Industrial frying in restaurants and snack food factories requires oil with good resistance to<br />

high temperature. Partly hydrogenated oils have been widely used in preference to liquid<br />

oils, and inevitably there is a significant content of trans fats. As an alternative, palm oil provides<br />

the required high temperature stability naturally. Annually, at least 10 million tonnes<br />

are used worldwide.<br />

A particular application is in doughnut frying.The cooked product is given a sugar coating.<br />

If liquid oil is used the coating falls off; therefore, hydrogenated oil is often specified by the<br />

manufacturers of large-scale equipment. Experience has shown that palm oil has the necessary<br />

properties to ensure satisfactory adhesion of sugar.


92<br />

MINOR USES OF PALM OIL<br />

Peanut butter<br />

To prevent oil separation during storage of peanut butter, manufacturers add about 2% of<br />

partly hydrogenated vegetable oil.This is now often replaced by a similar quantity of a hard<br />

grade of palm stearin (zero trans fats).<br />

Dried soups<br />

The fat traditionally used in dried soup powders was beef fat.This was changed to partly<br />

hydrogenated vegetable oil to avoid the cholesterol content and achieve good storage life.<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil is now the preferred (zero trans fats) ingredient; where long-term storage is<br />

required, partly hydrogenated palm oil is used (melting point 40-42°C), providing a low<br />

trans fats option.<br />

Pastry mix<br />

The product consists of a flour-and-fat mix packed as a free flowing powder for home<br />

use. Hydrogenated vegetable oil has been replaced by palm oil or palm oil blended with<br />

10-15% palm stearin. By chilling the fat and the flour and using an appropriate mixing<br />

machine, a free flowing powder is obtained. The user only has to mix in water and roll<br />

out the dough.<br />

While commercial concerns do not usually reveal their formulae beyond the legal labelling<br />

requirements, it is clear from the many reports of development work that reformulation<br />

with palm-based products is a favoured practice towards low trans fats content. This is<br />

borne out by the high levels of palm-based imports by Europe and increasing intake by the<br />

USA. Adverse publicity in the USA from 1986 onwards had reduced palm oil use in foods<br />

to near zero at one time.<br />

For those who do not have the resources to formulate trans-free products from scratch,<br />

a number of suppliers in the USA, Europe and Malaysia offer blends of suitable hard stock<br />

or finished product.These are mainly but not exclusively based on palm-based products.<br />

One refiner in the USA specialises in supplying palm-based products to the domestic<br />

industry.


93<br />

CHAPTER 11: PALM-BASED OLEOCHEMICALS<br />

The production of chemicals from palm oil and palm kernel oil (PKO) is attractive because<br />

the great variety of end products has much higher added value than the commodity oils<br />

themselves.<br />

At the time that Malaysia first ventured into the oleochemical industry in the late 1970s the<br />

industry was mainly located in the USA,Western Europe and Japan. Comments were made to<br />

the effect: 'Why do you want to do that? We already have plenty of capacity'. Nonetheless the<br />

Malaysian industry grew with encouragement from the government and has taken a significant<br />

share of the world market. Malaysia's exports to key destinations are shown in Table 1.<br />

In many products there is direct competition from petrochemicals, but the oleochemicals<br />

have advantages.They are from renewable resources and are much more easily biodegradable<br />

and therefore environmentally friendly.These assets have become much more important<br />

in recent years.<br />

It is estimated that 14% of all oils and fats are available for non-food use.The oleochemicals<br />

market has been growing at 2-3% a year. Malaysia, for example, exported 2.17 million<br />

tonnes of oleochemical products in 2009 (Table 2).<br />

This chapter 1<br />

describes the most important chemical steps to higher value products, and<br />

lists some of the many applications of palm-based oleochemicals.<br />

1<br />

The author acknowledges the collaboration of Prof RJ Hamilton in the preparation of this chapter.


94<br />

THE BEGINNING<br />

The 'splitting' of oils has been described as the 'gateway' to oleochemicals. Splitting was<br />

first achieved with the use of alkali, resulting in the formation of soap and glycerol. Soap was<br />

most likely the first oleochemical made by man, using wood ash from a bonfire as the<br />

source of alkali.This primitive process is still carried on in remote Nigerian villages (Figures<br />

1 to 3).


95<br />

Soap is a worldwide commodity for personal and laundry use. Good quality toilet soap is<br />

formulated with 75-80% of palm stearin or tallow and 20-25% of PKO or coconut oil.The


96<br />

long chain fatty acids give foam stability, while the shorter chain acids of the lauric oils<br />

impart good lathering and detergency. The world market for soap is over 10 million tonnes<br />

a year, with Malaysia having supplied 381,448 tonnes in 2009.<br />

In the industry today, fats are split very efficiently using a catalyst with water under high<br />

pressure (50-60 kg/cm 2 ) and temperatures around 260°C (Figure 4).The glycerol is separated<br />

and concentrated, forming a valuable by-product.<br />

The fatty acids may then be distilled to various levels of purity and marketed as such.<br />

Alternatively they are further processed, as outlined in Scheme 1.


97<br />

Fatty acids<br />

The saturated fatty acids can be made into different metal soaps. Calcium stearate is used<br />

in cattle feed. Zinc, cadmium and lead stearates are used in the rubber, paper and plastics<br />

industries.<br />

Fatty alcohols<br />

A fatty acid can be directly hydrogenated to give a fatty alcohol. Effectively the acidic group<br />

-COOH at the end of the fatty acid chain is changed into the -CH 2 OH group of the alcohol.<br />

The reaction requires a catalyst (for example, copper-chromium oxide), hydrogen at<br />

pressure (200kg/cm 2 ) and a temperature of 300°C. Alternatively the methyl esters may be<br />

hydrogenated.<br />

The fatty alcohols are the first step towards an important group of synthetic detergents,<br />

used in shampoos and washing-up liquids, among others.<br />

Long chain alcohols have also been used to form an impervious layer to reduce evaporation<br />

from water reservoirs in hot climates.


98<br />

NITROGEN COMPOUNDS<br />

The starting point for a range of nitrogen compounds is the formation of a fatty acid nitrile<br />

by heating the acid with ammonia to 300°C with a catalyst such as zinc oxide or alumina.<br />

The further reactions are shown in Scheme 2.<br />

(It should be noted that the nitrogen atom has 3 bonds available for combination, whereas<br />

the carbon atom has 4.)<br />

The nitrile<br />

(1) is hydrogenated stepwise to give first the intermediate<br />

R-CH=NH (2), the aldimine, and again to give R-CH 2 -NH 2 (3) This is a primary amine.<br />

Alternatively the intermediate (2) can be reacted with the primary amine (3) to give the<br />

secondary amine (4).<br />

If intermediate (2) is reacted with (4) we make a tertiary amine (5). All three bonds of the


99<br />

nitrogen atom have now reacted with alkyl groups. Further reaction, this time using an alkyl<br />

chloride or an alkyl bromide, gives quaternary ammonium salts (6) and (7).<br />

Product (7) is used as a disinfectant in the food industry, in breweries and in hospitals.<br />

In formulae (6) and (7), R represents a hydrocarbon chain which can be of different lengths.<br />

In product (7), for example, the reagent used in the final reaction has 14 carbon atoms and<br />

is obtained from PKO. Another quaternary, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, is used<br />

in hair conditioners and fabric softeners.<br />

A quaternary is used for concentrating minerals by ore flotation.The finely milled ore<br />

is dispersed in a solution of the quaternary and air is vigorously blown through.


100<br />

The ore particles are suspended in the stable foam that forms, and so separated from the<br />

unwanted waste.<br />

Other amines are used as corrosion inhibitors, as anti-static agents in textile manufacture,<br />

as release agents in rubber mouldings and as additives in lubricants.<br />

Fatty amides are water-proofing agents.<br />

Betaines are derivatives of amino acids that occur widely in nature. Synthetic betaines are<br />

used in shampoos, bubble baths and in heavy-duty cleaning agents.<br />

Amine oxides are components of cosmetics and detergents.<br />

Primary amines can be 'ethoxylated' by reaction with ethylene oxide<br />

Ethylene oxide chains can be built up to various lengths.The products form water-in-oil or<br />

oil-in-water emulsions depending on the length of the chain (Scheme 3).<br />

Biologically active fatty acid derivatives<br />

• Methyl epoxystearate, made by oxidising methyl oleate, can be transformed in a<br />

series of reactions to give aziridine, which acts as an anti-tumour agent.<br />

• Fatty nitriles - see (1) in Scheme 2 - can be transformed into tetrazoles with antiviral<br />

activity.


101<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> fatty acids for candles<br />

Candles with good performance are obtained when double-pressed stearic acid is blended<br />

with paraffin wax in the ratio of 70:30.<br />

Sulphonated methyl esters as a detergent<br />

The methyl esters of palm stearin are fully hydrogenated and then sulphonated<br />

with sulphur trioxide (SO 3 ) to give sulphonated methyl esters (SME). Their efficiency<br />

as detergents is as good as that of the petroleum derived linear alkyl benzene<br />

sulphonates (LAS). However the SME are much more biodegradable than<br />

LAS.


102<br />

Furthermore SME are compatible with the proteolytic enzymes often added to washing<br />

powders to remove milk, egg and gravy stains, whereas LAS are not compatible. SME based<br />

on palm fatty acids are now in manufacture.<br />

Polyurethane foam<br />

Polyurethane is obtained by reacting a 'polyol', (an alcohol with many -OH groups) with an<br />

isocyanate.The latter is obtained by introducing the functional group N=C=O into toluene.<br />

Research at the Malaysian <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board developed a process for making a polyol based<br />

on palm oil and using it in polyurethane foam.The process has been patented.<br />

Polyurethane foam can be made with flexible, semi-rigid or rigid characteristics and finds<br />

many uses in furniture, insulation of roofs and pipework, and in construction. The world<br />

market is estimated to exceed 10 million tonnes per annum, with the Asia-Pacific region<br />

absorbing one-fifth of this.<br />

Bio-diesel<br />

The transformation of a triglyceride into the methyl esters used as bio-diesel is achieved at<br />

moderate temperature with dry methyl alcohol and an alkali catalyst.<br />

In the case of palm oil, the purification of the esters also yields valuable by-products, mainly<br />

Vitamin E and carotenes.The <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Research Institute of Malaysia started a project on<br />

bio-diesel in the 1980s, built a pilot plant (Figure 7) and carried out extensive tests on road<br />

vehicles to prove the effectiveness of palm oil for this application.<br />

Bio-diesel has been promoted in the European Union with the objective of reducing greenhouse<br />

gas emissions and to provide a new market for farmers who grow rapeseed.<br />

European directives require industry to move towards the incorporation of increasing levels<br />

of bio-diesel into the fuel offered to motorists at the pump. At the time of writing, the<br />

level in the UK is 3.25%. In the USA, bio-diesel production from soybean oil has become<br />

significant.<br />

World production of bio-diesel was projected at 3,926 million gallons in 2009 and is estimated<br />

to increase rapidly.The price structure of vegetable oils has made the import of palm<br />

bio-diesel attractive and also the import of palm oil for transformation in Europe.


103<br />

USES OF OTHER FATTY ACID ESTERS<br />

Esters of medium chain fatty acids with medium chain alcohols have various uses. Myristyl<br />

myristate is a component of cosmetics, while isopropyl myristate is used in hair conditioners,<br />

lipstick and eye make-up. Glyceryl monolaurate is used in oil-in-water emulsions.These<br />

esters are sourced from PKO.<br />

A particularly interesting use of fatty acids from PKO is in the synthesis of medium chain<br />

triglycerides (MCT).The following mixture is used:


104<br />

The MCT have special nutritional properties. They are broken down in the digestive<br />

system more rapidly than fats of longer chain length. They are then transported<br />

as the free acids in the portal blood stream and rapidly digested. They are<br />

important food sources for patients who have difficulty in digesting normal fats.<br />

Owing to their rapid metabolism MCT have been proposed as energy sources in<br />

the diet of athletes.<br />

Glycerol<br />

A consequence of the production of bio-diesel is a greatly increased supply of glycerol,<br />

which has the following uses:<br />

• As a component of alkyd resins used in paints<br />

• In glyceryl monomethacrylate, which is polymerised and used in solar panels, etc<br />

• In other polymers used by dentists<br />

• In formulations of cleaners and polishes, of leather and textile processing aids<br />

• As a humectant to keep tobacco moist and also as a minor ingredient of cakes and<br />

in 'scoopable' ice cream<br />

• In the explosive nitro glycerine<br />

Potential new uses are the subject of research in a number of laboratories. A project at<br />

a US Department of Agriculture laboratory uses glycerol as feed stock for selected<br />

micro-organisms, one of which produces 'sophorolipids' of potential use in cosmetics<br />

and detergents. Other organisms produce a polymer, poly hydroxyl alkanoate (PHA).<br />

Depending on the bacterial strain used PHA, which is biodegradable, has uses in golf<br />

tees, razor handles and bottles.<br />

Cosmetic applications<br />

Products from palm oil and PKO are used in some cosmetic items (Examples 1<br />

and 2).


105<br />

Example 1<br />

Example 2<br />

The ingredient list for a skin cream includes:<br />

• Isopropyl palmitate<br />

• Triple pressed stearic acid<br />

• Glyceryl monostearate<br />

• Medium chain triglycerides<br />

• Glycerol


106<br />

CHAPTER 12: OILS AND FATS PROPERTIES<br />

The physical properties of oils and fats are basic in relation to their practical use.This chapter<br />

gives definitions of some physical properties and discusses their practical importance.<br />

Density<br />

The density of the oil is of great commercial importance because it is required for the<br />

determination of the weight of oil in shore- and ship's-tanks.<br />

Because it is impractical to physically weigh a shipment of several hundred tonnes of oil, the<br />

volume of oil is measured in tanks that have been calibrated.The weight is then calculated<br />

by multiplying by the apparent density.<br />

The formal definition is the weight of a volume of the oil at a defined temperature divided<br />

by the weight of the same volume of water at 4˚C.This is the Relative Density.The chosen<br />

temperature is 4˚C because water has its maximum density at that temperature.<br />

For practical use in determining the weight of oil in a ship's tank or a storage tank, the<br />

Apparent Density is used.The term 'litre weight in air' is self-explanatory.The measurement<br />

of the density is carried out in the laboratory and corrected to the actual temperature of<br />

oil in the tank.To obtain the weight in the tank, we need to know the volume.The empty<br />

head space in the tank (the ullage) is measured and the volume of oil obtained from a calibration<br />

chart previously prepared for the tank.<br />

The change in density for most oils is 0.00068 per degree centigrade (it is 0.00071 for the<br />

lauric oils) and therefore an error of 1°C represents 340kg of oil, quite a significant amount.<br />

Accurate temperature measurement is made by the surveyor when sampling the tank. He<br />

must make sure the tank contents are fully liquid, with no solid fats at the bottom.<br />

The sampling device is first warmed by filling and emptying it.Then samples are drawn at<br />

three levels and their temperature taken with an accurate mercury-in-glass thermometer.<br />

The sampler should not be exposed to extreme ambient temperatures during this<br />

measurement.


107<br />

Figure 1 shows a temperature measurement being made on top of a shore tank. Note the<br />

undesirable use of a copper or brass implement. Copper is a powerful catalyst for oxidation<br />

of oils.<br />

Colour<br />

The colour of oils enters into trading specifications.The standards and the trade specifications<br />

for the colour of oils use the Lovibond scale. Mr Lovibond was a brewer in the English<br />

country town of Salisbury in the 18 th century. He devised a system of pieces of glass<br />

coloured in red, yellow or blue of increasing intensity to standardise the colour of his production.When<br />

measuring red, yellow or orange colours, only the red and yellow glasses are<br />

needed.<br />

The oil in a glass cell of a standard size is placed in an enclosed box fitted with illumination.<br />

The oil colour is matched by using a suitable combination of the graded glasses. <strong>Oil</strong> colour<br />

is generally given in terms of 'Lovibond red and yellow'. A 5 1 / 4 -inch cell is used for refined<br />

oil, and a 1-inch cell for the stronger coloured crude oils. Most refined vegetable oils have<br />

a near-white colour. Refined palm oil is usually specified at a maximum Lovibond Red of 3.0<br />

in a 5 1 / 4 -inch cell.


108<br />

The strong colour of crude palm oil (CPO) is due to its content of various carotenoids<br />

(pro-Vitamin A). These are partly removed with the use of bleaching earth and partly<br />

destroyed at high temperature during refining. Experience shows that poor quality CPO is<br />

difficult - or in extreme cases, impossible - to bleach to the specified colour of 3.0.The difficulty<br />

is not due to carotene residues, but to colour formed due to deterioration of the<br />

oil.<br />

Some laboratories use an empirical bleaching test to decide what treatment is needed<br />

in the factory. A science-based measure to define bleachability of palm oil was developed<br />

by the Malaysian <strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> Board (MPOB) and is now part of the buying specification for<br />

CPO.<br />

It consists of measurements of colour in a spectrophotometer at two wavelengths in the<br />

ultraviolet part of the spectrum. One of these measures the carotene level. Carotene is<br />

gradually destroyed by oxidation.The second measures the increase in oxidation products<br />

of the fatty acids.The ratio of the two is a sensitive measure of the quality of CPO and is<br />

simple and rapid. It is called the Deterioration of Bleachability Index or DOBI.<br />

Another measurement of absorption, this time in the infra-red part of the spectrum, provides<br />

a measure of the trans fats content.<br />

Slip melting point<br />

The melting point of solid fats is a basic characteristic used in specifications. It is particularly<br />

useful for describing hydrogenated fats and different grades of palm stearin and palm kernel<br />

stearin.The conventional method for obtaining the melting point is described in Chapter<br />

2.An instrumental method for determining the melting point was developed by the MPOB<br />

(Figure 2).<br />

Solid fat content (SFC)<br />

The relationship of the SFC with temperature has been used in earlier chapters.The SFC<br />

is much more informative about the character of a fat than the slip melting point. An<br />

example of the marked difference between palm kernel oil - with a rapid change from<br />

hard solid to liquid - and palm oil, where the change is much more gradual, is shown in<br />

Figure 3.


109<br />

The method of measurement most widely used depends on the response of a sample<br />

to a magnetic field (the Nuclear Magnetic Resonance).The solid part of the fat responds


110<br />

differently from the liquid part. By measuring the fat brought to a range of temperatures,<br />

the familiar curves can be prepared.<br />

Cloud Point and Cold Test<br />

These two empirical measurements are used to characterise liquid oils.To determine the<br />

cloud point, a tube of the oil is placed in a refrigerated bath and the oil temperature measured<br />

at which cloudiness is first observed.<br />

The cold test involves placing a sample in an ice water bath. An oil that remains clear for<br />

5 1 / 2 hours passes the test.The test indicates the ability of the oil to remain clear when kept<br />

in a domestic refrigerator.<br />

Both tests relate to the consumer's wish for a salad or cooking oil to be sparkling clear.<br />

Standard palm olein fails to pass these tests. Double fractionation gives improved results,<br />

but these are still inferior to the more unsaturated oils.<br />

An acceptable cloud point can be obtained by blending palm olein with liquid oil as shown<br />

in Figure 4. A proportion of about 30% of palm olein is suitable. Such blends are already<br />

being marketed. Recently reported research shows that, after interesterification of palm<br />

olein with methyl oleate, the new olein matches the characteristics of liquid oils.


111<br />

Smoke Point<br />

The smoke point is of interest in oils to be used for frying.The temperature is measured<br />

while observing the steady evolution of smoke from oil being heated in an open vessel. A<br />

high smoke point is a desirable characteristic. Smaller more volatile molecules, particularly<br />

fatty acids, lower the smoke point and these increase during usage.<br />

Figure 5 shows three curves for the smoke point obtained on oils containing increasing levels<br />

of free fatty acids. Curve 1, taken from a text book, shows the effect of adding fatty acids<br />

to refined oil. Curve 2 was obtained in the same way but using a lauric oil. Curve 3 was<br />

obtained in the MPOB laboratories on used frying oils. It shows that, in addition to free fatty<br />

acids, other breakdown products also affect the smoke point.<br />

The lauric oils have a lower smoke point because of their content of the more volatile<br />

medium and short chain acids.A high smoke point limit is often specified for frying oils since<br />

it indicates a longer life in use.


112<br />

Flash Point and Combustion Point<br />

As the oil continues to be heated, smoke evolution increases until the gases can catch light<br />

and support combustion. Over-heated frying pans are a major cause of domestic fires, and<br />

are also a problem in restaurants.<br />

The flash point and combustion point are measured by heating the oil in a small closed vessel<br />

with a sliding door at the top (Figure 6).The vessel is fitted with a thermometer pocket<br />

and a stirrer. During heating, the door is momentarily opened while a flame is applied to<br />

the opening.The temperature at which the evolving gases momentarily light up is the flash<br />

point. On further heating the gases will support the flame.This is the combustion point.<br />

A modified apparatus is used for solvent-extracted oils to test that any solvent residues,<br />

which have a very low flash point, are not at a dangerous level.<br />

Polymorphism<br />

The desirability of the small crystals of the beta prime (β') formed in shortenings and margarines<br />

has been discussed in earlier chapters.<br />

The term polymorphism is applied to the existence of a triglyceride in several crystal forms.<br />

When a molten pure triglyceride is cooled quickly, the alpha (α) form is first obtained. If


113<br />

this is gently warmed it melts, but solidifies again to give the β' form. On further gentle heating,<br />

the β' form melts and re-solidifies in the beta (β) form.This is the final and stable form.<br />

The reason for this behaviour is that the rather long fatty acid chains have difficulty in packing<br />

together in the tidy structure that is a crystal.The same behaviour applies to the mixture<br />

of triglycerides that is a natural fat. Figure 8 shows the disposition of the α, β' and β<br />

forms of tristearin.<br />

Each triglyceride molecule looks like a chair, with two fatty acids facing one way and the<br />

third in the opposite direction.The fatty acids are attached to the glycerol molecule, which<br />

forms the seat of the chair, as it were.<br />

In the α form, they are stacked vertically. In the β' form, they are stacked somewhat more<br />

tightly at an angle to the vertical. The fatty acid chains are in zig-zag form, with adjacent


114<br />

chains at right angles. This is indicated in the diagram, where the middle chains zig-zag at<br />

right angles to the plane of the paper. In the β form, the fatty acids are all aligned.<br />

The different arrangement of the three forms is also evident when we look at the arrangement<br />

of the glycerides end on, in cross-section (Figure 9).<br />

In the α form, their position is rather random. In the β' form, the layers are aligned at alternate<br />

angles, whereas in the most stable beta form, they all face in the same direction and<br />

are closer together.


115<br />

Figure 10 shows how the layers of glycerides build up into a crystal. The example shows<br />

the most stable form of trilaurin with the 12-carbon lauric acid chains.


116<br />

The distance between the glycerides within the layer and the distance between the layers<br />

are measured by means of x-ray diffraction. A narrow beam of x-rays is deflected at angles<br />

determined by the spacing between the glycerides.The measurements tell us that the glycerides<br />

in the α form have the most freedom of movement, while those in the β form have<br />

the least.<br />

The melting points of the three polymorphic forms of some simple glycerides are given in<br />

Table 1.<br />

The crystallisation behaviour of cocoa butter is more complex than that of other fats. It<br />

has six polymorphic forms, of which four are unstable and readily transform into the<br />

more stable form V that is required.The main glycerides contain two saturated and one<br />

oleic acid.<br />

The final most stable arrangement arrived at is shown in Figure 11, where tristearin is<br />

compared with 2-oleodistearin.The bend at the double bond of oleic acid is accommodated<br />

in the crystal by aligning with an oleic acid from the adjacent 2-oleodistearin. So,<br />

instead of the dimension of a layer being roughly the length of two fatty acids chains, it<br />

is the length of 3.<br />

The melting points of the six polymorphs of cocoa butter are shown in Table 5, Chapter 8.<br />

Refractive Index<br />

The speed of light is lower when it is passing through a medium, such as glass, water or<br />

other liquid, than it is in vacuum. As a result a ray of light is bent at an angle in the medium.The<br />

ratio of the speed of light in a vacuum to that in the medium is the refractive index


117<br />

(RI) of the medium. It is also the ratio of the sine of the angle of incidence to the sine of<br />

the angle of refraction.The RI varies with the temperature.<br />

The measurement is made in a refractometer where the sample is placed between glass<br />

prisms, which are maintained at a constant temperature by water circulated through a<br />

jacket.<br />

The RI varies somewhat depending on the wavelength of light and this is conveniently controlled<br />

in the laboratory by using a sodium lamp, which has a strong yellow line called the<br />

D line in its spectrum.


118<br />

The RI also varies with the chain length of the fatty acids and their unsaturation and it<br />

therefore has some value as an identity characteristic. It is listed in Codex Alimentarius and<br />

other standard specifications, though for identification purposes it is somewhat outdated.<br />

However, it is used for control of the hydrogenation process. The measurement is very<br />

rapid and can be easily carried out close to the plant in the factory, or a continuously<br />

recording refractometer can be fitted on the hydrogenation vessel.<br />

A change of 0.00116 in the RI is equivalent to 10 units of Iodine Value, and the accuracy of<br />

measurement enables a change of one unit of Iodine Value to be observed.This is sufficient<br />

for most purposes.<br />

It may be noted incidentally that, due to the need to minimise trans fats, hydrogenation is<br />

much less practised than it was. Hydrogenation is now often used to saturate all double<br />

bonds, so producing a zero trans fat which is then used by interesterification with oils to<br />

produce consistent fats.

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