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Chile 

Chilean legend has it that when God 

had finished creating earth, he walked 

back across the heavens and a little of 

everything that was left; mountains, deserts, 

lakes, glaciers, volcanoes and valleys, trickled 

out through a hole in his pocket, and thus 

Chile was born. So, this implausibly long, 

thin ribbon of land unfurls down the Pacific 

coast of South America and compresses an 

extraordinarily diverse range of terrain 

between its Andean spine on one side, and 

the ocean to the other. Sweeping from the 

world’s highest and driest desert down 

through rolling vineyards, past snow-dusted 

volcanoes, narrow fjords and turquoise lakes 

up to sharp granite peaks towering above 

blue icebergs, this slender slice of land is also 

bursting with culture and charm. Chileans 

are proud and friendly, fiercely protective 

of their traditions, and more than happy to 

enjoy a glass of the fiery national cocktail, 

pisco sour, with visitors. Add to all this the 

mysterious statues of Easter Island, 

marooned five hours’ flight away out in 

the Pacific Ocean, and you have every 

imaginable ingredient for a wealth of 

sights and experiences. 

100

Audley in Chile 

2 

1 

Moai, Easter Island 

1 Atacama Desert 

A stunning moonscape 

wilderness of volcanoes, salt 

lakes, multi-coloured lagoons, 

hot springs and geysers. 

2 Stargazing, Elqui Valley 

An area with incredibly clear 

night skies, with several 

international observatories 

that can be visited. 

3 Easter Island 

A tiny speck in the vast Pacific 

Ocean, a remote and mystical 

place, famous for the brooding 

stone statues that litter the 

volcanic landscape. 

The sheer size and diversity of Chile means 

it is something of a feat to cover all elements 

in one trip. Our specialist knowledge ensures 

that whatever your preference for sights and 

activities, we will strike the right balance for 

you to see as much as possible without 

spending too much time on the road or in 

the air. Due to the length of their shared 

border, Chile lends itself perfectly to a 

combined trip with Argentina. We can advise 

you about the many options for crossing 

from one to the other via the desert in the 

north, Santiago, the Lake District or 

Patagonia, all are remarkably beautiful 

journeys. As well as knowing the classic 

highlights of Chile in considerable depth, we 

pride ourselves on our knowledge of lesserknown 

regions and places to stay, and are 

more than happy to discuss specialist 

interests such as golf, wine, astronomy and 

skiing. Private excursions throughout a trip 

can prove to be rather expensive due to the 

size and remoteness of the country, so we 

can make use of small group tours to keep 

costs down if required. 

3 

4 

5 

6 

4 Vineyards and wineries 

The Colchagua Valley is the 

ideal place to start to learn 

about (and taste) some of the 

best wine in Chile. 

5 Lake District 

A pretty region of the bluest 

waters, white-tipped volcanoes, 

waterfalls and ancient forests, 

perfect for gentle hiking, bike 

riding, fishing or just relaxing. 

6 Aisén 

A beautiful and lush region 

with very few visitors, great for 

enjoying outdoor activities and 

stunning scenery. 

7 Torres del Paine 

Chile’s most beautiful 

national park, a magnificent 

place of towering granite 

peaks, turquoise lakes, condors 

and guanacos. 

Accommodation 

Hotels in Chile are as interestingly varied as 

the country’s distinct regions, and we always 

try to seek out character properties that 

reflect this. The country is home to the 

unique and outstanding Explora hotels, of 

which there are now three, and the Explora’s 

concept of high quality accommodation 

married to explorations of the surrounding 

landscape has inspired a plethora of similar 

properties, all of which are striving for the 

highest standards. Therefore Chile has some 

beautiful and unique hotels dotted 

throughout the country. There are also many 

equally charming, more simple properties, 

offering good value for money and high 

standards of service. 

Find out more 

7 

8 

8 Isla Navarino 

A small island located off the 

southernmost tip of the South 

American continent, for the 

ultimate in peace and quiet. 

Adventure cruising 

As befits a country with such 

a long and varied coastline, 

being on a boat can provide 

some wonderful sights and 

experiences. 

For suggested itineraries and practical 

information about travel in Chile, please see 

pages 114-115. 

☎ 

www.audleytravel.com 

Interactive maps and features, 

further suggested itineraries, 

accommodation, climate information 

and articles written by our specialists. 

Discuss your plans with our Chile 

specialists 01993 838 640 

Chile 101

Santiago 

Santiago 

Snow-covered Andean peaks provide Santiago’s 

spectacular backdrop, but today they compete 

for dominance on the skyline with sparkling 

skyscrapers. The capital of Chile is a modern 

metropolis, but a charming one with many 

landscaped parks and peaceful hilltop sanctuaries 

offering calm amid the chaos. Wander the historic, 

civic heart of the downtown area and you’ll come 

across fine museums and churches, the impressive 

18th century government palace and the beautiful 

baroque cathedral. The modern and fast-paced 

commercial centre of Providencia is where you’ll 

find most of Santiago’s glitzy shops, restaurants 

and hotels. There is also the arty Bellavista district, 

from where the cable car ascends to the summit 

of San Cristóbal Hill, affording fantastic views 

over the city to the Andes. 

ACCOMMODATION IN SANTIAGO 

Unlike its neighbour’s capital city of Buenos Aires, 

the concept of boutique hotels has not fully 

caught on in Santiago. Good value yet characterful 

properties are not in abundance, instead what 

Santiago has to offer is a large number of high 

standard international chain hotels. For those 

seeking something more personal at a reasonable 

price we recommend the Hotel Orly, the 

Meridiano Sur and La Rêve, all of which are 

situated in the residential and commercial 

district of Providencia. 

102 

THE AUBREY, SANTIAGO 

The first luxury boutique hotel in Santiago, the 

Aubrey is situated at the foot of the San Cristóbal 

Hill within the Parque Metropolitano, one of the 

six largest urban parks in the world. Three years 

of careful restoration and renovation have 

transformed a historic house into a modern 

luxury boutique hotel with 15 rooms, all with 

their own character, and most with balconies or 

terraces. The outdoor patio terraces overlook 

exotic landscaped gardens, and there is a heated 

outdoor swimming pool. 

Virgin Mary on San Cristóbal Hill 

Meridiano Sur, Santiago 

Skiing 

During our summer months of June to 

September, the ski resorts nestling in the 

Andes (but handily within easy reach of 

Santiago) offer the largest number of 

runs in the southern hemisphere, Valle 

Nevado and Portillo being the most 

renowned. The spectacular views and 

superb standard of snow make Chile an 

increasingly popular destination for ski 

afficionados seeking action out of the 

northern hemisphere season. We can 

arrange stays in the resort hotels for any 

duration, complete with equipment hire 

(skis or snowboards) and lessons if 

required. It is also possible to have a 

day trip to the slopes from Santiago if 

time is short.

Valparaíso 

La Serena 

Valparaíso, Viña del Mar 

and Zapallar 

When you have explored the city of Santiago, 

you could head to the coast for a day, travelling 

through orchards and olive plantations to the 

fascinating seaside town of Valparaíso and its 

fancier neighbour of Viña del Mar. 

Tumbling precariously down dozens of hills to the 

port, Valparaíso is a maze of colourful buildings, 

boulevards and viewpoints, best explored using 

its ancient funicular railways and ‘elevators’. Here 

you can visit one of the homes of Chilean Nobel 

prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda, who was 

inspired by the town’s melting-pot charm and 

eccentricity. If you wish to stay overnight there 

are a couple of characterful properties, Casa 

Higueras and Hotel Zero. Viña del Mar, by 

contrast, is a genteel and fashionable resort that 

has been the weekend retreat of rich Santiago 

folk for generations. 

About two hours further north is the attractive 

and chic resort town of Zapallar. Set on a curved 

sandy bay and backed by lush forests this is a 

perfect place for a couple of relaxing nights. 

Elqui Valley 

La Serena and the Elqui Valley 

La Serena is a cheerful place, a mix of chic 

seafront and artistic old town, surrounded by a 

mystical and remote area of stunning scenery that 

climbs east into the Andes. Famed for having the 

clearest skies in the southern hemisphere, this 

blissfully tranquil area houses a large number of 

observatories, and attracts spiritualists as well as 

astronomers due to its reputedly unusual 

magnetic quality. Observatory visits can be 

arranged for those with an interest in the night 

skies. Tiny and impossibly picturesque villages – 

Montegrande, Vicuña, Pisco Elqui – dot the 

valley’s cultivated slopes and it is in these that 

Nobel prize winner Gabriela Mistral lived and 

taught. This is also the heart of pisco grape 

growing country and a trip here wouldn’t be 

complete without a distillery visit and tasting. 

Star gazing 

The north of Chile is renowned for its 

exceptionally clear night skies, and 

these atmospheric conditions, along 

with a lack of light pollution and high 

altitude, mean that the country is a 

world leader in astronomy. The scientific 

observation of the universe is 

undertaken in several internationallyfunded 

observatories around La Serena 

and further north in the Atacama 

Desert. There is currently further 

investment scheduled including the 

arrival of the world’s largest telescope, 

and the biggest ground-based 

astronomical project in the world, 

ALMA (Atacama Large Millimeter 

Array), which will be open to visitors. 

The starry skies in Chile can be 

explored by professionals and amateurs 

alike, as several of the observatories 

are open for tours. Typically over 300 

nights a year are suitable for stargazing 

and sky photography, so visitors to 

observatories such as La Silla, El Tololo, 

El Pangue and Cerro Mamalluca should 

be able to enjoy unlocking the secrets 

of the universe! 

Zapallar 

www.audleytravel.com/chile ● 01993 838 640 ● Chile 103

Traditional winery, Colchagua Valley 

Wine Regions of 

Central Chile 

Surrounding Santiago to the north, south and 

west lie some of the New World’s finest 

vineyards. The most visited areas lie to the south 

of the city where the beautiful Maipo and 

Colchagua Valleys take most of the glory. These 

valleys can be visited either as a day trip from the 

capital or in more depth if you opt to stay at one 

or more of the wineries. Either option allows you 

the opportunity to explore either with a private 

guide or with your own car. This is a wonderful 

place to relax with stunning views through the 

green valleys up into the Andes. 

CASA SILVA, COLCHAGUA VALLEY 

The Casa Silva vineyard has a wonderful house 

dating back to the late 19th century and oozing 

with character. Along with the fine rooms 

decorated with traditional furniture you’ll find 

peaceful courtyards, a swimming pool and 

decorative fountains as well as a fantastic in-house 

restaurant and bar. In addition there is a rodeo 

and polo field, with stables housing up to fifty 

horses at any one time, offering you the chance 

to either relax or take part in a little activity if the 

mood strikes you. 

CASA LAPOSTOLLE, 

COLCHAGUA VALLEY 

Undoubtedly one of the best hotels in Chile, this 

tiny property on the Clos Apalta vineyard consists 

of just four private cabins on the steep hills of the 

Colchagua Valley. Each is incredibly spacious with 

an open fire and balconies overlooking the vines. 

As a perfect romantic getaway there are few 

places with such spectacular views accompanied 

by such great wine. 

old fashioned reading rooms or have a game on 

the full sized snooker table in the old smoking 

room, or simply unwind on the terrace which 

is dominated by a beautiful 150 year old 

bougainvillea. 

VIÑA MATETIC, ROSARIO VALLEY 

Nestled in the Rosario Valley between Santiago 

and Valparaíso and on the border of the more 

famous Casablanca Valley, Viña Matetic was once 

thought to be in the worst possible spot for wine 

production. How wrong those predictions were as 

their wines have become regular winners of major 

awards. The lodge offers fantastic service and a 

great mix of tradition and modern convenience. 

Vintage car, Colchagua Valley 

104 

CASA REAL, COLCHAGUA VALLEY 

Built around 1880 this old mansion was the 

showpiece home of the owners of the Santa Rita 

Estate and little expense was spared in creating a 

luxurious dwelling with manicured gardens and 

even their own family chapel. The house is now 

used as a small hotel with 16 spacious and stately 

bedrooms. You can also relax in the wonderfully 

Wine cellar

Chilean wine 

Owner's cellar, Casa Lapostolle 

On the land where the Andes meet the Pacific 

in a series of steep-sided valleys that flow 

down to ancient river beds and glacial paths, 

some of the best wines in the world are 

produced. Historically this region of Chile has 

been the fruit bowl of the country, but over 

the last couple of decades there has been a 

significant increase in money invested in what 

is now a flourishing wine industry. Chile has 

now become established in the top ten wine 

producers, by volume, in the world and many 

(professionals and amateurs alike) would put 

them in the top five for quality. It has not been 

an easy road to reach this status however. In 

the 1980s the quality was low and the climate 

and soil dismissed as too poor to produce high 

grade wines. But today, Chile is considered the 

perfect environment for a wide range of wine 

production; this is no longer a country that 

just produces a cheap merlot. 

These days Chile grows a wide variety of 

grapes, mostly red, from chocolaty carmeneres 

to robust cabernet sauvignons and wonderfully 

rounded merlots. In the Colchagua Valley you 

will find some of the best accommodation in 

the region such as the stunning Casa Lapostolle 

(on the Clos Apalta estate) and Casa Real 

(on the Santa Rita estate). For any wine lover 

this area is an essential part of a trip to Chile, 

Grapes, Colchagua Valley 

but if you are a serious connoisseur then you 

must get off the beaten track a little. Travelling 

south from Colchagua you will find the Curico 

and Maule valleys and further south still you 

reach Itata and Bio Bio regions where many 

of the new wines that are on our shelves 

originate. Here you will find Casa Porta and 

their pinot noirs, and organic blends. 

However Chilean wine is not all about the 

reds. With fish featuring heavily in many 

Chilean diets, white wines are a natural 

complement, and the region west of Santiago 

specialises in this. In the rolling hills that work 

their way down from the mountains to the 

old port town of Valparaíso you will find the 

Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys, home to 

Viña Matetic. It is from here that the sauvignon 

blancs and an increasing number of 

chardonnays are produced. The environment 

here is a perfect blend of fresh sea air and 

mineral-rich soil left behind by millennia of 

seismic activity in the region. 

Whether you are something of a connoisseur 

looking to learn more about wine production 

or you simply appreciate great wine alongside 

lovely scenery and peaceful accommodation, 

then a few hours or days in this area will be 

time well spent. We can arrange trips that 

best suit your level of interest. 

Colchagua Valley vineyard 


Atacama Desert 

The Far North 

The far north of Chile shares not only a border 

with Peru and Bolivia but also a common history 

derived from the pre-Conquest cultures of the 

region. The startling barren landscape holds a rich 

archaeological heritage – here you can discover 

immense geoglyphs, ancient cave art and excellent 

museums in and around the coastal towns of 

Arica and Iquique. To the east, this arid landscape, 

in shades of brown and gold, gives way to the 

foothills of the Andes and rises up to become 

part of the vast altiplano. Here panoramas of 

snow-topped volcanoes, herds of vicuña grazing 

amongst flowers and brightly coloured lakes await. 

Lauca National Park is visually stunning, and is 

en route for travellers who are taking the road 

from La Paz in Bolivia to Chile, via the equally 

sublime Sajama National Park. 

Cycling past Licancabur Volcano 

106 


Eerie, austere, remote yet beautiful, never more 

so than at sunrise and sunset when the surfaces 

and the skies turn all manner of improbable hues 

of orange, crimson and gold, Chile’s Atacama 

Desert is so dry that there are many parts of it 

in which no rainfall has ever been recorded. 

This is an unlikely landscape to have a variety of 

attractions, yet the Atacama is a must-see for 

visitors to Chile, and the oasis town of San Pedro, 

at its heart, has some of the most original hotels 

in all of South America. 

After flying into Calama, a mining town with 

Chuquicamata, the largest open cast mine in the 

world in the hills behind it, travel by road through 

rolling swathes of parched lunar landscape to the 

welcoming town of San Pedro de Atacama, the 

base for explorations into the desert. From here 

you will join small guided groups, usually 

organised via your hotel, to marvel at the 

Atacama’s natural spectacles, and to discover 

archaeological sites; ancient mummies, geoglyphs, 

and crumbling ghost towns. Rise before dawn to 

drink your morning coffee at the world’s highest 

geothermal field, and watch the steam from your 

cup rise along with the spurting fumaroles of the 

Tatio geysers. Pick your way across the crunchy 

salt flats to spot the pink flamingos, photograph 

the vivid colours of the Miscanti and Meñique 

Lagoons, and climb the sweeping sand dunes of 

the Valley of the Moon to watch the sun set, 

turning them scarlet as it goes. This desert is an 

active person’s paradise, offering unique terrain 

through which to hike, cycle or horse ride, but it 

is also entirely accessible to those wishing to 

investigate it by vehicle, with the excellent hotel 

options offering total relaxation after an aweinspiring 

day’s exploration. 

Spotty llama, Atacama Desert

Vicuña, Atacama Desert 

Church, San Pedro de Atacama 

Flamingos in front of Licancabur Volcano 

ALTIPLANICO, SAN PEDRO 

DE ATACAMA 

Fifteen minutes walk from the centre of San 

Pedro lies a group of 16 adobe houses created 

out of local wood, mud, straw and stone, the 

typical building materials of the altiplano. This is 

the Altiplanico, which has real character and 

individuality and offers great value. Each of the 

houses are simply decorated, there is a lovely 

outdoor swimming pool and a relaxed café 

and bar. 

EXPLORA EN ATACAMA, SAN 

PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

The original pioneer of the concept of 

exclusive excursions combined with luxurious 

accommodation in San Pedro, the Explora en 

Atacama is the younger sister of the Patagonia 

property (see page 112). The hotel has awardwinning 

modern architecture, and its 50 guest 

rooms are large and well-furnished, and all have 

Jacuzzis. There are broad terraces for relaxing, 

plus a sculptured pool area, all with fine views 

over the nearby volcanoes. The property also 

has its own observatory with a powerful 

telescope for star gazing. 

Tierra Atacama, San Pedro de Atacama 

TIERRA ATACAMA, SAN PEDRO 

DE ATACAMA 

All of the 32 spacious rooms at the Tierra 

Atacama have private terraces and mountain 

views, some facing the mighty Licancabur Volcano. 

The communal dining rooms and terraces are 

warmed by fire pits and the cosy living rooms 

are the perfect place to spend the evening. 

Meanwhile, the spa is luxurious and offers a full 

range of treatments. 

AWASI, SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

The Awasi is a beautiful retreat made up of only 

eight cottages, each having a private patio, reading 

sofa, and indoor and outdoor showers. Local 

materials have been crafted to create a unique, 

harmonious space designed for relaxation and 

rest. The Awasi is unique amongst the hotels in 

San Pedro in that it prepares private outings for 

its guests that are customised to ensure 

adventure and surprise. 

ALTO ATACAMA, NEAR 

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

The location of the Alto Atacama, in a valley 

surrounded by deep red mountains, gives the 

hotel a real feeling of serenity and remoteness, 

despite being just three kilometres from San Pedro 

de Atacama. As well as a luxurious spa and natural 

thermal pools, six small swimming pools are 

nestled in the landscaped gardens. The 32 rooms 

are warm and stylish, and the hotel also has its 

own observatory within the extensive grounds. 

OTHER ACCOMMODATION 

OPTIONS IN SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

Other than the Altiplanico, options for those 

looking for properties that are not at the luxury 

end of the spectrum include the Aldea, Hosteria 

San Pedro de Atacama, Poblado Kimal and the 

Atacama Adventure Lodge. The rooms are simple, 

but most have a swimming pool and all have 

good levels of service. 

Alto Atacama, near San Pedro de Atacama 


Osorno Volcano at sunrise 

The Lake District 

Chile’s Lake District starts in the north at 

Temuco and stretches over 300 kilometres south 

to Puerto Montt, where the gentle lakes end and 

the landscape changes into the harsher face of 

northern Patagonia. It is an impossibly pretty 

region of the bluest waters, white-tipped 

volcanoes, waterfalls and ancient forests. It is 

perfect for hiking, bike riding, fishing, relaxing in 

thermal pools, languorous cruises around fjords 

and glaciers, and the enjoyment of fresh air 

(although be prepared for some rain). You can 

either base yourself at one of the charming hotels 

and take daily excursions, or drive yourself around 

the region (see feature on page 111). 

Pucón and around 

Pucón is the popular and stylish epicentre of all 

activity in the northern lakes area. If you enjoy 

fishing, rafting, rambling, horse riding or would like 

to climb the slopes of the Villarica volcano, then 

this is the place for you. We can arrange car hire, 

or for our local guides to take you and a picnic 

out for the day by road, foot or boat, but if you 

prefer simply to relax and take in the views, 

there is no better place in which to do it. 

ANTUMALAL, NEAR PUCÓN 

Situated two kilometres outside Pucón, set in 

over five hectares of landscaped gardens and 

with its own private beach and dock, is the 

Antumalal hotel. Its low-slung 1950s design was 

very advanced for its time and provided the 

inspiration for the renowned Explora hotels in the 

Atacama and Patagonia. The hotel’s modern style 

is combined with cosy comfort and personalised 

service – the Pollak family have managed it since 

the beginning – and facilities include a heated 

outdoor swimming pool and tennis court. 

Excursions on foot, by boat or on horseback can 

be organised for you by the hotel’s exclusive 

guides. Each of the 16 rooms has a view of 

either Lake Villarrica or the gardens from their 

floor to ceiling windows, as do the restaurant, 

lounge and terrace. 

Puerto Varas and around 

The best place to base yourself to explore the 

southern lakes area is in or around the small town 

of Puerto Varas, with its enviable location on the 

shores of Lake Llanquihue. Famous for the roses 

which bloom all over the town from December 

to March, Puerto Varas is overlooked by the 

conical peaks of Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes 

and is a lovely place to unwind during your travels 

through Chile. Day trips can be arranged to 

Petrohue Falls and the national parks of Vicente 

Perez Rosales and Alerce Andino, the interesting 

settlements of Puerto Octay (its Germanic roots 

reflected in its Bavarian-style architecture) and 

the little lakeside resort of Frutillar, or Chiloé 

Island, a mysterious place of myth and legend. 

Those travelling into Argentina via the famous 

and picturesque ‘Lake Crossing’ will do so from 

Puerto Varas by bus and boat through the 

Andes in one or two days (with a stop 

overnight in Puella). 

CASA MOLINA, NEAR 

PUERTO VARAS 

Ten kilometres out of Puerto Varas, Casa Molino 

has a wonderful location on Lake Llanquihue, with 

stunning views to the nearby Osorno volcano. 

There are 11 rooms, some with fireplaces and 

Jacuzzis and all with views either to the lake or 

to the gardens. 

Church, Puerto Varas 

108

Local farmer, near Puerto Varas 

Puerto Varas and the Osorno Volcano 

Chiloé Island 

Flower sellers, Puerto Montt 

Forest and waterfall, Aisén 

QUINCHO COUNTRY HOME, 

NEAR PUERTO VARAS 

Overlooking Lake Llanquihue ten kilometres from 

Puerto Varas in the opposite direction to Casa 

Molino, Quincho Country Home is an incredibly 

welcoming home from home in the Chilean lakes. 

The house is beautifully designed and decorated, 

and with only four rooms, each guest is attended 

to with great care and attention to detail. 

Delicious home cooked food with fresh, local 

ingredients is combined with fine wine. 

Mapuche boy 

Quincho Country Home 

Aisén 

Chile’s Southern Highway, begun in 1976 under 

the determined project management of General 

Pinochet, snakes south from Puerto Montt 

through the country’s remote Aisén region down 

to southern Patagonia. The landscape through 

which you pass is dramatic, pristine, and enticingly 

studded with waterfalls, rivers, forests and lakes. 

The road’s romantic ending is a forced one; at the 

tiny hamlet of Villa O’Higgins it can go no further, 

obliged to trail off as the vast Southern Ice Field 

takes over. For those keen on road trips, we can 

organise a hire car and maps (see feature on 

page 111), or we can arrange a guide if you are 

heading for a specific attraction, maybe the towns 

of Cochrane or Coyhaique, the hanging glaciers of 

Queulat, or a cruise through the maze of fjords to 

the mighty glacier on Lake San Rafael. If you are 

short of time, you can fly into the town of 

Balmaceda, which allows easy access to the 

attractions of the region. 

ACCOMMODATION IN THE 

AISÉN REGION 

Scattered throughout this lush area are a number 

of rustic lodges which offer comfortable 

accommodation and a great range of outdoor 

activities, so that you can make the most of the 

mountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers. Mallín 

Colorado Ecolodge and Terra Luna are both 

situated on the shores of Lake General Carrera, 

both offer a warm welcome and a range of 

excursions by foot, horseback, bicycle or boat, plus 

fishing trips. Close by, the more luxurious Hacienda 

Tres Lagos also offers adventure activities and 

pampering. All can arrange excursions to the 

Northern Patagonian ice field. The Puyuhuapi 

Lodge & Spa is a more remote property only 

accessible by boat, a journey that provides 

stunning views of the dramatic fjord scenery. 

Icebergs from the San Rafael Glacier 


Chile by water 

Skorpios II 

Chile’s unique ribbon-like shape gives it over 

4,300 kilometres of coastline stretching down 

the west coast of South America. The bottom 

third of this coastline is a fragmented landscape, 

as if this part of Chile was once dropped on the 

floor and it shattered into a thousand pieces. 

This means that there are many fjords, islets, 

archipelagos and peninsulas to explore, and 

there is no better (indeed there is no other) 

way to explore this fascinating territory than by 

taking to the water. This can be done either as 

a day trip, on a longer journey as a means of 

getting from place to place, or on a relaxing 

cruise as a key part of your Chile trip. 

NAVIMAG 

Navimag operate passenger ferries (carrying 

between 100 and 250 people) between Puerto 

Montt and Puerto Natales, a journey that is 

impossible to complete by road on the mainland 

due to the obstacle of the Southern Patagonia 

Ice Field. They also operate various other routes 

in the area which are ideal for travellers, locals 

and cargo alike. Joining the ferry offers you the 

unique chance to see the fjords and coastline 

of southern Chile go by at a leisurely pace, 

allowing you plenty of time to spot dolphins 

and whales along the way, as you wind your 

way through narrow channels and along the 

side of spectacular glaciers. The atmospheric 

journey takes three nights and leaves you at the 

gateway of Torres del Paine. Cabins are basic 

but food plentiful and community spirit abounds, 

with nightly gatherings to enjoy a pisco sour, 

Chile’s traditional drink. 

SKORPIOS 

The vessels Skorpios II and III follow three 

different routes through the channels and fjords 

of Chilean Patagonia on cruises lasting between 

three and five nights. The itineraries visit the 

fringes of either the Northern or Southern 

Patagonian Ice fields between Puerto Montt and 

Puerto Natales. The boats have a capacity of up 

to 130 passengers, with well-furnished, modern 

en suite cabins on a number of decks, and a 

good menu of local Chilean cuisine. Daily 

excursions by motor launch take you to explore 

the mainland, cruise through the dramatic 

icebergs, or up to the face of huge glaciers. 

NOCTILUCA 

A 20 metre motor yacht which can sail into 

places that the bigger boats cannot, the 

Noctiluca offers a unique and intimate sailing 

experience with personalised itineraries around 

the beautiful and remote Aisén region. 

Noctiluca was constructed on Chiloé Island 

from a unique Patagonian wood that has been 

used for centuries by the local mariners, and 

sleeps four to eight passengers. It has a 

comfortable lounge area, spacious outer decks 

and the food and wine is of the highest quality. 

A truly exclusive experience. 

CRUCEROS AUSTRALIS 

Finally, to the very tip of the continent. The 

Beagle Channel and Cape Horn (weather 

permitting!) are two of the highlights of the 

‘Cruceros Australis’ cruises that sail the waters 

between Punta Arenas in Chile and Ushuaia, 

on Tierra del Fuego in Argentina, on three and 

four night voyages. There are daily excursions 

to see glaciers, elephant seal and penguin 

colonies, plus lectures from the knowledgeable 

guides, as well as evening entertainment. 

Comfortable cabins and plentiful food and 

drink mean these trips are a fabulous way to 

experience some of the remotest parts of the 

continent in a little bit of comfort. The cruises 

operate from September to April, with 

occasional sailings in the winter months. 

Noctiluca 

110

Chile by road 

Typical road, northern Chile 

As well as the 4,300 kilometres of coastline, 

Chile’s unique geography also creates some 

wonderful opportunities for road travel, either 

with a driver on some of the more challenging 

terrain, or driving yourself. Independent selfdrive 

in South America as a whole is not always 

the easiest thing in the world, even for 

experienced independent travellers, because of 

undeveloped roads, a lack of ‘road etiquette’ 

and sparse road signs. Chile, however, is an 

exception and offers fantastic opportunities to 

explore under your own steam. The romantic 

notion of driving from top to bottom of the 

country is actually an impossibility though, as 

the Southern Patagonia Ice Field bisects the 

country, and the roads cannot cross it. 

The North 

One of the most spectacular overland trips in 

the world is between southwestern Bolivia and 

Chile’s Atacama Desert. This is a trip where you 

definitely need to be a passenger and let an 

expert who knows the area do the driving, as 

much of it is off-road amongst the Salar de 

Uyuni salt flats (see page 30), volcanoes and 

colourful lagoons. The scenery is breathtaking, 

from seeing the curvature of the earth when 

standing on the dazzling white salt, to the 

descent into the oasis town of San Pedro de 

Atacama. The Explora hotel (see page 107) 

arranges a travesía (‘journey’) from its property 

in San Pedro up through this area, in incredibly 

luxurious style considering the remoteness of 

the terrain. There are also other less expensive 

options for those not staying at the Explora. 

These trips stay in simpler places with less 

creature comforts, but all use sturdy 4x4s, a 

pre requisite for the region. 

The Centre 

Driving yourself from Santiago down to the 

Chilean Lake District is a wonderfully relaxing 

few days along good roads, via some of the best 

wine-producing regions in the country. Once in 

the Lake District, you will find some of the best 

self-driving opportunities in South America, with 

good roads that skirt by emerald green lakes, 

wind around volcanoes and pass through small 

picturesque towns. 

To the north of the region you will find the 

town of Pucón nestled under the Villarrica 

Volcano and as you travel south from here you 

enter one of the most indigenous parts of Chile. 

The Huilo Huilo Nature Reserve lies on the 

other side of the volcano, and is full of ancient 

woodland, remote lakes and a deep sense of 

history and tradition rooted in the Mapuche 

Indian past. Driving south you enter a region 

that was heavily populated by German 

immigrants in the 19th century. This is the most 

commonly visited part of the region, focused 

around the town of Puerto Varas. Having a car 

here allows you the flexibility to explore the 

region at your own pace. 

Driving over into the Argentinian Lake District 

is possible, but one of the quirks of the hire car 

set up is that it can be prohibitively expensive to 

return a hire car to a different country, so we 

would recommend looping back into Chile. 

For the more adventurous there is the option 

of driving further south, down into the Aisén 

region. Mainly on unpaved roads, and with the 

need for some ferries, this can be a challenging 

trip, but it is through some of the most pristine 

areas of Chile, much of it national parks. There 

are lodges along the route, which becomes 

more rugged as you travel south. Finally, you can 

go no further, the road stops at the settlement 

of Villa O’Higgins as the Southern Patagonian Ice 

Field proves an impassable barrier. 

The South 

Below the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, roads 

start up again, and exploring this end of Chile by 

road is all about long journeys across wide open 

expanses of Patagonian steppe. Driving yourself 

around Torres del Paine National Park is an 

interesting way of seeing the magnificent scenery 

at your own pace, giving you a little more 

flexibility to explore on your own rather than 

being in a group. 


Torres del Paine National Park 

Torres del Paine 

National Park 

The most famous national park in Chile and all 

of Patagonia, Torres del Paine is remote, rugged 

and windswept. While this makes it lengthy to 

reach and demanding to explore, its seclusion is 

the very essence of its appeal and it is undeniably 

worth the effort. Unless crossing into the park by 

road from Argentina via El Calafate, you will arrive 

by air into Punta Arenas; Chile’s southernmost 

city, a bustling place of multi-coloured houses 

that resonate with pioneer spirit. You may wish 

to stay a night here before or after your time in 

the park itself, in order to break up the long 

journey. To get into the park you will travel 

through the Patagonian steppe for 300 kilometres 

Explora en Patagonia 

112 

to Puerto Natales, and then on another 100 

kilometres to the park itself where your first 

sighting of the eponymous torres (towers) and 

the uniquely smooth and twisted cuernos (horns) 

of the Paine Massif will be unforgettable. Once 

there, the incredible landscape is waiting to be 

explored, either by foot, boat, bike, horse or 

vehicle. We particularly recommend an 

afternoon’s sailing on Lago Grey to approach the 

glacier of the same name, navigating through vivid 

blue icebergs on the way. However you choose 

to explore you will marvel at emerald and 

turquoise lakes, waterfalls and grazing guanacos. 

For those who fancy some trekking you can take 

a hard day’s hike to the base of the towers, or a 

longer circuit involving camping and up to six 

days’ walking. 

EXPLORA EN PATAGONIA, 

TORRES DEL PAINE 

Sister to the Atacama hotel, the Patagonian 

Explora may be wildly different in terms of setting, 

but its design, facilities and service are equally 

outstanding. All public areas and the Scandinavianstyle 

bedrooms have views of the lake, mountain 

range or the Salto Chico waterfall. Some rooms 

have Jacuzzis, but there are also open air pools, 

saunas and hot tubs. As in the Atacama, all your 

transportation, meals and excursions are included, 

and the expert guides will share with you their 

knowledge and love of Chile’s most famous 

national park. 

REMOTA, PUERTO NATALES 

An ultra-modern, environmentally-friendly building 

on the water’s edge to the north of Puerto 

Natales, Remota has comfortable and stylish 

rooms, and large public areas dominated by open 

fires with spectacular views of Seno Ultima 

Esperanza. The hotel aims to show visitors more 

of Chilean Patagonia than a traditional visit to 

Torres del Paine National Park may offer by 

organising trips outside of the main park areas. 

PATAGONIA CAMP, TORRES 

DEL PAINE 

Located on the shores of Lago Toro, an hour 

from Puerto Natales and an hour from the 

famous towers of Torres del Paine, Patagonia 

Camp accommodates its guests in ‘yurts’ or 

wooden tents with central heating and en suite 

facilities. Each yurt has fantastic views and a 

private balcony and a skylight in the roof so you 

can see the stars while you lie in bed. 

Patagonia Camp

Guanaco, Torres del Paine National Park 

Lago Gray, Torres del Paine National Park 

LODGE CERRO GUIDO, TORRES 

DEL PAINE 

This is a perfect place for keen horse riders to 

experience Patagonia and see parts of the 

national park that very few people are likely to 

experience. Located close to the Argentine 

border, and indeed feeling like something of an 

outpost, the lodge has seven comfortable 

rooms and a restaurant with stunning views 

across the park. 

OTHER ACCOMMODATION 

OPTIONS, TORRES DEL PAINE 

Aside from the accommodation mentioned 

above, which we have chosen for either the 

uniqueness of their setting or service, there are 

other choices that offer comfortable and cosy 

accommodation and are good bases from which 

to explore the area. Our recommendations 

include Hotel Las Torres, Hosteria Lago Grey 

(with its spectacular views over the lake and 

glacier of the same name), the small and 

welcoming Cabañas del Paine and Rio Serrano. 

Easter Island 

Out in the Pacific Ocean, a five hour flight west 

from the Chilean mainland, lies a tiny speck of 

volcanic rock. This is Easter Island, or Rapa Nui 

as it is known to the locals, a place that has 

fascinated traveller and scholars alike for centuries. 

This is due to the squat bodies and brooding 

Moai, Easter Island 

faces of hundreds of stone statues or ‘moai’ 

that gaze from all corners of the island. A three 

or four night trip to this intriguing destination 

means coming face to face with these moai, 

admiring their form and size and pondering the 

mysteries of why and how they were erected. 

The population centres on the small town of 

Hanga Roa in the southwest of the island, from 

where you can explore the island with a guide, 

or independently, and by hire car, foot or on 

horseback, depending on your preferences 

and budget. 

ACCOMMODATION ON 

EASTER ISLAND 

There are a range of accommodation options 

on Easter Island. The most luxurious choice is the 

youngest of the Explora properties, Explora Rapa 

Nui. Set on a hill that faces the sea in the south 

west of the island, five kilometres from the town 

of Hanga Roa. Volcanic rock from the island and 

wood from the mainland have been used in the 

construction of the property, which has 30 guest 

rooms branching off from the living and dining 

areas. There’s also a bar, massage salon and an 

open-air pool. The Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa 

is another luxurious option, whilst cheaper 

properties include the Iorana, Otai and Gomero. 

These hotels are without luxurious trimmings, but 

are friendly and relaxed properties, all located in 

and around Hanga Roa. 

Explora Rapa Nui 

Isla Navarino 

The island of Isla Navarino lies at the far 

southern tip of Chile, a place that throughout 

history has been a safe haven for countless ships, 

limping in to gather strength for, or recover 

from, sailing around Cape Horn. Today’s visitors 

are more likely to be adventurous travellers 

looking for somewhere utterly remote to trek 

and spot wildlife, and have a drink in the world’s 

most southerly pub in Puerto Williams, the 

world’s most southerly permanent settlement 

(outside of Antarctica). Isla Navarino is reached 

by a short flight (or long ferry trip) from Punta 

Arenas, and accommodation is at Lakutaia, a 

rustic but comfortable lodge from where you 

can explore the very end of the world. 


Calama 

Santiago 

CHILE 

ARGENTINA 

Puerto Montt 


Punta Arenas 

Lago Gray, Torres del Paine National Park 

Tailoring your trip 

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a 

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that 

work particularly well. We can use these as a 

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely 

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. 

Please call one of our Chile specialists to start 

planning your itinerary. 

Telephone: 01993 838 640 

Getting around 

Travel around such an unusually-shaped country 

does present some challenges with regard to 

distances and logistics. We will advise you on the 

ideal sequence in which to organise your trip, 

according to internal flight schedules, climate, 

departure days of cruises or entry days of hotels, 

if applicable. The flight network is extensive and 

keeps to a good timetable. 

Trips from Chile 

The mysterious stone statues of Easter Island 

lie a five hour flight from Chile. We can organise 

three or four night trips here (depending on the 

flight schedules) from Santiago, where the flights 

depart from. Once you are on the island we 

can arrange excursions with specialist guides, 

or car hire if you wish to explore under your 

own steam. 

The fascinating Falkland Islands lie in the South 

Atlantic, an hour’s flight from Punta Arenas in 

southern Chile. At present there is one flight a 

week to and from Chile and Mount Pleasant, 

the international airport in the Falkland Islands. 

They make a wonderful extension to any trip to 

Chile, as they are teeming with wildlife including 

penguins, sea lions, elephant seals and a wide 

variety of marine birds (see pages 116-119). 

114 

When to go 

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 

✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ 

✓✓ The best time to travel. 

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. 

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. 

✕ Travel is not recommended. 

As befits a country that spans a range of latitudes, 

Chile has many different climatic regions. The 

Atacama and sub-tropical Easter Island are warm 

and dry throughout the year. From Santiago 

down to the Lake District and on down through 

Patagonia the seasons are the reverse of our 

own, with the peak travel season from October 

to April, although the area can also be visited all 

year round. 

Time difference: GMT-4 hours 

Flight time from UK: 16 hours 

Prices 

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of 

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices 

for your trip to Chile on our website, alternatively 

please call our specialists to discuss your plans. 

Cowboys, southern Patagonia 

Classic Chile 

This itinerary takes in the country’s most famous 

highlights in two weeks. A treat for those with a 

love of the great outdoors, this trip takes you to 

the Atacama Desert for a chance to see volcanoes, 

salt flats and geysers before flying south to the 

contrasting landscape of the Lake District with its 

rolling hills and snow-capped mountains. Finally 

venture into Chilean Patagonia with a stay in the 

unique Torres del Paine National Park. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Days 4-5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Days 8-9 

Day 10 

Fly from the UK to Chile. 

Arrive in Santiago. Optional 

afternoon city tour. 

Fly north to Calama, and transfer 

to the oasis village of San Pedro 

de Atacama. 

Excursions around the stark but 

beautiful Atacama Desert. 

Fly south to Puerto Montt in Chile’s 

Lake District. Transfer to your hotel 

in the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. 

A full day excursion to visit Peulla 

and the waterfalls at Petrohue. 

At leisure to explore the 

Lake District. 

Fly south to Punta Arenas from 

where you’ll begin your journey into 

Torres del Paine National Park. 

Days 11-12 Excursions into Torres del Paine, 

by foot, horse or vehicle. 

Day 13 

Day 14 

Day 15 

Stay longer 

Fly from Punta Arenas back to 

Santiago. Spend your last night in 

Chile in the city. 

Begin your journey home. 

Arrive in the UK. 

After a busy trip like this you may wish to have 

some rest and relaxation on a beach, for this we 

recommend stopping in Brazil on the way home. 

Fly to São Paulo and then transfer to one of the 

small hotels dotted along the golden sands of the 

Green Coast (see page 62).

Suggested itineraries 

Santiago 

Buenos Aires 

Calama 

Santiago 

CHILE 

ARGENTINA 

CHILE 

ARGENTINA 

Pucón 

Puerto Varas 

CHILE 

ARGENTINA 

El Calafate 

Punta Arenas 

Santiago 

Colchagua Valley 


Punta Arenas 

Patagonia Explored 

This trip takes in two of the main highlights of the 

wonderful and vast expanse of Patagonia – Torres 

del Paine National Park in Chile and the Perito 

Moreno Glacier in Argentina. By choosing how you 

would like to explore these places you can make 

the trip as active or as relaxing as you wish, so the 

only prerequisite is a love of the great outdoors. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Days 4-5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Stay longer 


Arrive in Santiago. Optional 

afternoon city tour. 

Fly south to Punta Arenas, and 

transfer into Torres del Paine 

National Park. 

Excursions into Torres del Paine, 

by foot, horse or vehicle. 

Travel overland across the border 

with Argentina to the town of 

El Calafate. 

A trip to the mighty Perito Moreno 

Glacier including a trek on the ice 

itself (age restrictions apply). 

At leisure, or take an optional 

excursion into the Patagonian 

countryside to see a local estancia, 

or further glaciers. 

Fly north to Buenos Aires. 

A full day tour exploring the 

fascinating capital of Argentina. 

Begin your journey home. 


The Lake Districts of either Chile or Argentina can 

be visited on the journey south or north in this 

itinerary, so that northern Patagonia can also be 

explored. Alternatively Peninsula Valdés in 

Argentina is great for wildlife enthusiasts, the 

abundant marine life can be seen by stopping off 

here on the way up to Buenos Aires. 

Vineyards and Volcanoes 

For those who are partial to wine and adventure 

but are perhaps a little short on time this is the 

ideal trip. It can also be done all year round. 

Start by exploring the capital of Santiago before 

heading into the nearby Central Valley to visit 

some world-famous vineyards and wineries. Then 

head north to the Atacama Desert for some 

adventurous explorations amongst the volcanoes. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Days 7-8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Stay longer 


Arrive in Santiago. Afternoon 

at leisure. 

A morning tour of Chile’s capital city. 

Travel south of Santiago into the 

Colchagua Valley, the heart of Chile’s 

wine producing region. 

A full day tour of some local 

vineyards to see the production 

process. 

Return to Santiago and fly north to 

Calama, from here transfer to the 

small town of San Pedro de Atacama. 

Explore the magical landscape of the 

Atacama Desert, by foot, horse, 

bicycle or vehicle. 

Fly back to Santiago and connect 

with your international flight home. 


For those with a sense of adventure and a love of 

the great outdoors there is nothing more 

spectacular than heading up from San Pedro de 

Atacama into southwestern Bolivia. Visit multicoloured 

lagoons, marvel at stark landscapes 

dotted with nothing but llamas, and walk on the 

largest salt pan in the world at Uyuni. 

Self-drive through Chile 

If you like the independence of driving yourself 

around, Chile is a perfect destination. Start in 

Santiago and finish in the Lake District some 1,000 

kilometres later, having explored the vineyards of 

the Central Valley and enjoyed the beautiful 

scenery of the northern and southern Lake District. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 


Arrive in Santiago, afternoon at 

leisure to relax or explore. 

Pick up your hire car and begin the 

journey south towards the wineries 

of the Central Valley, where you will 

stay overnight. 

Continue south out of the vineyards 

and drive through rolling hills heading 

for Chillán. 

Continue on down the Pan American 

Highway, heading towards the start 

of the Chilean Lake District. Stay for 

two nights in Pucón. 

Explore the area of the Northern 

Lake District in your hire car. 

Heading off the main route a little 

you will drive towards Huilo Huilo. 

Leaving Huilo Huilo drive south to 

the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. 

A day to explore the area, perhaps 

taking the ferry to visit Chiloé Island. 

Fly south to Punta Arenas, pick up a 

new car and travel into Torres del 

Paine National Park. 

Days 11-12 Self-drive explorations of Torres del 

Paine and around. 

Day 13 

Day 14 

Day 15 

Drive back to Punta Arenas, fly to 

Santiago where you will spend 

the night. 

Transfer to the airport to begin your 

journey home. 



Stay longer 

Any trip to Chile with time in Torres del Paine 

means that crossing over into Argentina to see the 

Perito Moreno glacier is easily possible. This can 

then be followed with a few days in the fascinating 

capital of Buenos Aires.

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