Contents - Wayfarer Institute of Technology

Paddles. Although oars are best for a long haul, and essential
if you have to pull against a current or a strong wind,
a paddle is handier for manoeuvering to or from the dock,
or in a crowded anchorage. I also keep a paddle with a telescopic
handle in one of the closed buoyancy compartments,
as a reserve in case of a capsize and loss of gear.
Anchors. For a major cruise you need two anchors. You
will use both when riding out a strong blow, and you need
a reserve in the event of losing one, which can happen easily.
A cruising sailor's attitude to anchors should be to take
the heaviest he can stow, not the lightest he can get away
with. As you are taking two, they may as well be different
types, for example, a Danforth or a CQR (plough) for a
good holding bottom, and a grapnel for rock. I carry a
nine-pound Danforth and an eight-pound grapnel, each
with six feet of chain and 100 feet of rope. The main function
of the chain is to spare the rope from damage on
rocks. Also it cushions the initial shock when the rope
comes taut, and it does not foul around the stock during a
quiet evening.
Ground Tackle. The rope should still be thick enough to
withstand a good deal of chafing. Use half or three-eighths
inch synthetic rope although its tensile strength when new
is above what is needed. Chafe (which of course should be
guarded against) requires a very large safety factor here.
Such a quantity and weight of ground tackle seems ridiculous
on a summer afternoon. It does not seem ridiculous
when you are sleeping afloat in your tent and the wind
picks up to gale force, whether you have a rocky shore or
open lake in your lee. Wire all shackle pins. Splice the rope
securely round the thimble, or, if you use an anchor bend
or bowline, seize the end by whipping to the standing part.
Always leave the bitter end of the rode tied to the boat,
and you are more likely to finish the cruise carrying the
same two anchors you started with.
Inflatable Boat Rollers (1 or 2). Boat rollers are invaluable
for dragging a dinghy up the beach, and can be carried
inflated as extra buoyancy. Imagine the weight of one
of them filled with water. This same force acts in reverse
when filled with air, considerably increasing your boat's
buoyancy. They must be securely lashed in position.
Fenders. The boat rollers can be used as fenders, but they
are expensive items to expose to damage. Also, after using
them in this manner, you may forget to lash them securely
when you sail away. It is probably better to buy separate
fenders, or to parcel up old life jackets if you have any.
Never use your in-service life jackets.
Compass. One mounted and one hand held compass are
required. Positions for mounting the boat's compass will be
discussed later, as this can be quite a problem.
Sea Anchor. A sea anchor is useful only in a strong wind
with heavy seas, and requires plenty of sea-room. A drogue
of 18- or 24-inch diameter, with swivel, is usual. (You do
not often meet anyone who has actually used one.)
Bailers. You need two buckets tied to the boat in addition
to Elvstrom or transom bailers if fitted. Bucket handles
must be rugged and securely fixed. One bucket with a
well-fitting lid is handy to carry things that need to be
kept dry.
Bilge Pump. A good supplement to the essential buckets is
a small hand-held pump, with a suitable intake hose to slip
under the floorboards, and a discharge hose to go overside
or into the centreboard trunk.
Safety Harness and Life Line. Many people do not carry a
safety harness, but to have one on and securely tied to the
boat may save your life. In the event of capsizing, the boat
may drift faster downwind than you can swim, or if you fall
overboard, big waves might hide you from your crew. A
lifeline is even more important for the skipper if the crew
is not an experienced helmsman. Suppose the jib is poled
out, or spinnaker flying, when you fall overboard; the crew
will take a little time to stop the boat, let alone trim sails
and beat back to you single-handed. He might even forget
the centreboard in the stress of the moment. It is better
to have your life-line attached, then you will stay within
shouting distance. You can buy a commercial harness, or
you can make one out of webbing or rope. Think carefully
which is the weakest link (often a D-ring) and be sure it is
strong enough. Test it by hauling yourself up with block
and tackle. Metal parts ought not to distort at all under
your full weight.
Home-made Safety Harness. Put one arm through, pass
harness around back, put the other arm through, like putting
on a jacket. Then attach the life-line by snaphook or
bowline that holds loops together.
Life-line. 16-20 feet of 3/8-inch synthetic rope tied with
bowline or fisherman's bend to the centre thwart, skipper
to starboard, crew to port, and always pass that way in the
boat to avoid tangling. (N.B. I have had a bowline come
undone while moving around with the line slack, using
braided synthetic rope. This must not be allowed to happen.)
Water Containers. For ocean sailing, a supply aboard of
fresh water is a vital necessity. Containers must be securely
lashed, and protected from damage. Water is the most
essential item of stores. When sailing on fresh water, even