EJ Latitudes 1/08.qxd - Frontiers Elegant Journeys

Latitudes
Published by Frontiers International Travel www.frontiersej.com Issue 5 • Spring 2009
In This Issue...
Travel Trends ..............................................1
Where We’ve Been Lately ..................4-6
News from Around the World ..........7-9
What’s Up Down Under ........................10
Gentle Giants ..........................................12
Africa News ........................................14-16
Ever-Changing Namibia ........................18
Barcelona..................................................19
Jaunts in Provence ..........................20-21
Slovenia ..............................................22-23
Rome..........................................................24
Cruising the Waterways........................25
Berlin ........................................................26
Oberammergau ......................................27
Vilnius & Russian Festivals ..................28
Golf in Ireland & Scotland ............30-31
Incredible India ................................32-34
Happily Ever After..................................35
Oman ..................................................38-40
Museum of Islamic Art ........................41
Dazzling Jewels of
Egypt & Jordan..................................42-43
Beyond Beijing..................................44-45
Tantalizing Thailand ........................48-50
explora ......................................................51
Savor South America ......................52-53
Gems of Central America ..............54-55
Sea of Cortez ..........................................56
Galapagos ................................................57
Lake Kora ..........................................58-59
Top Tables ..........................................60-63
Travel Trends
From the Desk of Mollie Fitzgerald
UNLESS YOU’VE BEEN MAROONED ON A DESERT ISLAND OR
DEEP IN A CAVE STUDYING ROCK ART FOR SEVERAL MONTHS, it’s
impossible not to be affected — bombarded, fatigued, and paralyzed
— by the incessant news of the economic meltdown. While the travel
industry has undeniably been impacted, there remain some bright
lights on the horizon.
When fear, uncertainty and doubt dominate the economic landscape, we tend to deemphasize
tangibles and turn inward toward intangibles. We place more value on relationships
with family and friends and want to nurture those
relationships and create memories together. Travel is not a superfluous
luxury and not to be mistakenly placed in the same “frivo-
book and those who
“The world is a
lous purchase” category as a new sports car, piece of jewelry, or do not travel read
the latest hi-def television; rather it has become ingrained in the only one page.”
fabric of our lives as a necessary means of reconnecting with ourselves,
our environment, and with each other. As The New York
Saint Augustine
Times recently observed, “the impulse to engage has replaced the desire to escape.”
Thus, travel may be more important now than ever before.
My friend and industry leader Matthew Upchurch, CEO of Virtuoso, when asked about
what he is most grateful for this past holiday season, replied: “I’ve realized I barely
remember any of our Christmas presents over most of my lifetime, yet I marvel at the
detail and emotion we share over the amazing trips we’ve taken.” Those words really
resonated with me as they may with you, and I think all of us have perfect recall when
it comes to memories from a trip taken with a dear friend, spouse, child or grandchild.
Swimming with sea lions in the Galapagos, camping on the lip of the Ngorongoro
Crater, my daughter’s first moules in Paris, the first time I rode a camel, learning to tie a
sari, and photographing polar bears on the Hudson Bay ice pack are just a few favorites
that come to mind. These are things you cannot Google and confirm to me that,
indeed, travel experiences do last a long time.
(Continued on next page)
top photo: Udaipur’s City Palace from the Oberoi Udaivilas
1

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Have you created a “Bucket List” yet
(This is a life list of things to do before
you kick the bucket!) Anyone who has
traveled, or yearns to do so, could not
help but be touched by the movie in
which two terminal cancer patients get
the bad news and decide to have a few
last great adventures. Lately, I’ve had
many clients tell me about their bucket
list. They are creating them when they
are young and healthy, sending me a
copy, checking off experiences, and
adding new entries. Frontiers is flattered
to be custodian of numerous bucket lists!
Sorting one’s travel priorities also
begs a few questions. Is bigger really
better With the introduction of Airbus’s
A380, double-decker jets taking up to
656 passengers, and the slugfest among
the mega-cruise lines for the world’s
biggest cruise ship at 6,400 guests with
promises of “more entertainment
options and better amenities,” one has
to really wonder. On the hotel side, in
November 2008, Atlantis staged a $20
million, Fantasia-proportioned opening
ceremony for its new $1.5 billion underwater-themed
hotel with a mere 1,539
rooms. Exciting or over-the top . . . you
decide, but contrast that with the growing
popularity of planes configured for
all-business class service — embarking
just 48 people takes about 8 minutes —
or the convenience of Lufthansa’s private
jet program with seamless connections
from their hub cities all over
Europe. Consider the success of two of
our favorite barges, 6-passenger ultraluxe
Fleur de Lys and 4-passenger
Colibri whose 22-plus-week seasons are
sold out year after year, including 2009!
Why do readers of Condé Nast Traveler
in the UK vote the 36-suite La
Residencia on Mallorca as Top Hotel in
Europe I know we’re preaching to the
choir, but it’s worth pondering.
Another conundrum . . . location,
location, location has always been
considered paramount to any hotel’s
success and yet the Gostelow Report
recently confirmed what I have long
suspected: that for today’s affluent traveler
seeking exclusivity and privacy,
2

“increasingly, the more difficult a hotel is to reach, the more desirable
it becomes.” Our clients flock to explora Patagonia, the new
Six Senses Zighy Bay in the middle of Oman’s Musandam
Peninsula, the Amankora Lodges in Bhutan, and India’s Devi Garh
in spite of long or arduous journeys to get there.
Value for money is everyone’s travel mantra right now and
Frontiers’ team of experts is uniquely positioned and tuned in to
the ever-changing arena of where the best values lie. Special offers
are time sensitive, so you need to be prepared to make a quick
decision. As a member of Virtuoso, the premier luxury leisure consortium,
we often have access to lower, unpublished rates at top
properties with added value such as breakfast, complimentary airport
transfers, or room category upgrades. We know many hoteliers
personally and they are discreetly offering extra value such as
extending free nights and/or including meals for longer stays.
Some hotels are relaxing minimum night stay requirements and/or
cancellation policies. These are private “deals” and you won’t find
them on any Internet site.
We watch exchange rates like a hawk and know how to use that to
your maximum advantage — currency has fluctuated a lot, some as
much as 45 percent in the past 90 days, and a stronger dollar means
enhanced buying power. We are seeing some five-year lows on
exchange rates, making destinations like the United Kingdom,
Australia, Iceland, Norway and Russia, which have “felt” pricey lately,
now seem downright reasonable and viable options to consider.
Suppliers with expensive assets to fill and fixed overhead costs,
such as cruises, tend to have some of the best offers currently.
Discounts are up to 50 percent on some sailings with a smorgasbord
of value-added components that include free or upgraded air
to the port, complimentary shore excursions, cabin upgrades or
shipboard credits. They are all-inclusive to start with and there is a
flavor to suit every palate, from small 32-passenger adventure
cruises to ultra-luxe, all-suite ships and everything imaginable inbetween.
We are in touch with all of the top lines and will guide
you so you are not “nickeled and dimed” once on board. And, with
the lower cost of fuel, most cruises and airlines have eliminated
fuel surcharges, a sizeable further savings.
We know it is your intellect, your curiosity, your spirit of adventure,
your demand for the finest accommodation and cuisine, and your
appreciation of personalized service that has brought you to our
doorstep. Whether you want to engage, escape (or both), or
maybe you want to get started on your Bucket List, you need the
services of a well-connected and experienced travel professional
now more than ever to navigate the uncharted waters of today’s
travel landscape. We genuinely share your passion for travel; it’s
part of our DNA, so why not put Frontiers’ 40 years of experience
and our worldwide network of personal contacts to use for your
next holiday
3

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
FRONTIERS’ UNPARALLELED DESTINATION KNOWLEDGE
TRULY SETS US APART FROM OUR INDUSTRY PEERS. We
invest tens of thousands of miles in our staff each year
looking at new destinations, revisiting old favorites, staying
current on hotels and restaurants, and massaging personal
contacts, all with your next trip in mind. We share your
passion for travel! No one is better positioned than us to
answer the question in the affirmative when you next call and
ask, “Have you been there”
Kristene Matelan on
the sporting clays
range at Gleneagles
Mollie Fitzgerald
from the balcony of
the Copacabana
Hotel, Rio de Janeiro
Where We’ve
Judy Greene arriving
at Seven Spirit Lodge,
Australia's Northern
Territory
■ Four staff trips in Spain — Tasting wines of La Rioja, discovering Gaudi in
Barcelona, wandering medieval towns, staying in deluxe hotels and
historic paradors, sophisticated Madrid, and the island of Mallorca
■ Portugal — Lisbon and the semi-tropical island of Madeira
■ Yunnan Province in China — Playing with pandas in Chengdu, strolling
through UNESCO World Heritage sites, incredible scenery in Lijiang, and
the real Shangri La
■ Our 3rd trip to Dubai and lesser-known neighbor, the Sultanate of Oman
■ Italy — Two staff trips including a thorough review of top hotels in Rome
and a return to perennial favorite Florence
■ Galapagos Islands — Swimming with playful sea lions and watching
blue-footed boobies
■ Africa — Seven staff visits including Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, Rwanda,
South Africa, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia and Zimbabwe
■ Scotland — Shooting, scenic tours, spas, golf and sipping malt whiskey
■ Berlin — Update on the top hotels, architecture and buzz of this reinvented
city
■ Southeast Asia — Three staff trips encompassing Thailand, Cambodia,
Laos and Vietnam
Joyce Larkin at
Quwwat-ul-
Islam Mosque,
Delhi
Colleen Wiley at the
Coliseum, Rome
Lynda McDonough in
Ghent, Belgium
4

Frontiers Group,
"Images of
Indochina" at
Angkor Wat
Eileen Datt atop Table
Mountain, Cape Town
Been Lately
■ Slovenia — Two staff trips fishing for trout, dining and sampling the vine
in western Slovenia, while also exploring the stunning natural beauty,
charming medieval towns, and interesting history of this half-Alpine, half-
Mediterranean nation
■ France — Two staff trips including the prehistoric cave drawings in the
Dordogne Valley, countless country house properties throughout Provence,
inspections of a dozen canal barges in the Languedoc and Burgundy, and
“Behind the Scenes at the Eiffel Tower” (see the original hydraulics that
operate the elevators — still in use today)
■ Three-week jaunt through Argentina and Chile including Santiago, San Martin de
los Andes, and the Lake District plus the new explora Rapa Nui on Easter Island
■ Egypt and Jordan — Update on old favorites, new ships on the Nile, and
great hotels
■ South Pacific — One trip to Australia with visits to the fabulous new Qualia on
Hamilton Island and the Northern Territory and one trip to French Polynesia for
a look at the ultra-deluxe properties
■ India — Featuring the lovely Taj properties; we loved Baghvan and saw
two tigers!
■ Central America — Two staff trips including the wilds of Panama and Costa Rica
(Continued on page 6)
Natasha Tichy on board
the Sun Boat IV in Egypt
Cindy Smith in
Costa Rica
Jill Jergel on the
deck of the Emma,
Canal du Midi
5

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Where We’ve Been Lately (Cont’d from page 5)
Susie Gavlik with son,
Justin, on Mexico’s
Sea of Cortez
Kirsten Gardner at
medieval gem, Ptuj,
Slovenia
Mollie Fitzgerald
overlooking
Florence from
Villa San
Michele, Fiesole
Sue and John Watson,
Brandenburg Gate, Berlin
Kathy Schulz and husband, Gary,
gorilla trekking in Rwanda
Rose McKay descending
the dunes in Namibia
Linda Rumburg learns a
tribal dance, Tanzania
Meredith McNaugher supporting the local
economy, Songzaling Monastery, Ringha
6

News
from Around the World
■ Six Senses opens Evason Ma’In in Jordan — Renowned for
developing resorts in inspirational settings, Six Senses is once
more preparing to launch just such a property. We are huge
fans of the Six Senses portfolio (as are our clients) and they
bring the eco-sensitivity for which they are so acclaimed to an
extraordinarily rugged location in Jordan, just minutes from the
Dead Sea and a one-hour drive west of the capital city of
Amman. Situated in a rocky ravine 264 meters below sea
level, the resort features hot mineral spring waterfalls whose
therapeutic benefits have attracted visitors for centuries dating
back to King Herod’s time. With 97 guest rooms and suites,
the resort will open its doors officially in April 2009. This is an
ideal place for a few days of “R&R” at the beginning or end of
a sightseeing trip in Jordan to well-known sites such as the
rose city of Petra and awe-inspiring Wadi Rum.
■ Abercrombie & Kent introduces Journeys for Women — A
mother-daughter bonding experience — A reunion of college
roommates — A welcoming environment for the solo traveler.
Discover the world’s most remarkable destinations in the company
of other women with sightseeing and activities presented
from a woman’s perspective. Discuss women in art and design
with Asian art activist Megan Conolly. Attend a cocktail reception
and dinner at Ati Arts Gallery with socialite art collector Mrs.
Poonam Sarin in Delhi. Raft the Cataract Canyon with a team of
female rafting guides. Explore historic sites, from the Female
Warriors at the Yangling excavation in Xian, China, to the palace
of Versailles, in the company of seasoned guides who illuminate
these must-see places from a rewarding new point of view. Call
for details on A&K’s twelve departures in 2009.
(Continued on next page)
■ LAN Ecuador has gained rights to launch domestic services
within Ecuador. This gives passengers more options in terms
of flight access and fare options with the attractive LAN
regional passes for multi-segment travel within South America.
According to the report, in March the service will connect the
capital Quito with Guayquil and link both cities with Cuenca
and Galapagos, using Airbus A320 aircraft. Lan, a member of
the Oneworld alliance, is one of the most reliable carriers in
the region and a favorite among Frontiers’ clients.
7

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
■ Our new favorite
hotel in Istanbul! —
Next to the celebrated
waterway dividing Asia
from Europe —
Istanbul’s famed
Bosphorus — a 19th
century Ottoman
palace has been reinvented
as the Four
Seasons Hotel at the
Bosphorus. Located on
the European side of
the strait, this new
addition to the illustrious
Four Seasons hotel group provides a front-row seat to the
domes and minarets of the Old City and the fascinating watery
highway of the Upper Bosphorus. A highly respected industry
colleague and professional (who has certainly seen and stayed
at the finest hotels worldwide) gushed with the most flattering
adjectives on their location, rich interiors and stellar service. The
Palace Roof Suites, on the top floor of the historic main building,
feature rooftop terraces with a breathtaking 180-degree
view of the old town’s skyline across to the shores of Asia. The
141 bright and airy rooms, (blending Ottoman design, rich colors
and chic mahogany furnishings) have windows opening to
the waterfront, gardens or to city views.
■ New York’s Palace Hotel — Located in the heart of Manhattan
on the corner of 50th and Madison, The New York Palace
Hotel, well known for spectacular views, sumptuous rooms
and exquisite service, has recently become the newest jewel
in the Dorchester Collection’s prestigious family of hotels.
Dating back to 1882, the building was first known as the historic
Villard Mansion, noted for the world-renowned courtyard
that now serves as the hotel’s entryway. The mansion was
seamlessly blended with a modern tower when the hotel
opened in the fall of 1980. Thanks to a recently awarded 2nd
Michelin star for the hotel’s restaurant Gilt as well as a featured
role in the hit televsion series “Gossip Girl,” and appearances
in films such as “Just My Luck” and “27 Dresses,” The
Palace has recently been embraced by a new generation of
travelers from the
United States and
abroad. With the
Dorchester at the
helm, this hotel is
in very good
hands and should
continue to shine
among New York’s
finest.
■ Kilts, Castles and Country Houses — Explore stunning
Scotland — its elegant cities, magnificent castles, churches and
gardens, the finest golf and, of course, the unforgettable taste
of fine Scottish malt whiskies. We have a special 6-night package,
valid for all of 2009, at just $3,000 for two guests staying
two nights at each of three of Scotland’s top country house
hotels: Cringletie House in the heart of the Borders region; Isle
of Eriska on the rugged west coast; and the Torridon in the
Highlands. Included are dinner, bed and breakfast; daily afternoon
tea (yes, you’re in the UK!) and VAT. What better way to
experience warm Scottish hospitality, easy access to top historical
sites, distilleries and outstanding value.
8

■ Four Seasons Firenze opens its doors — In
the hush of Florence’s largest private garden
(11 acres with winding paths and a 91-foot
swimming pool) lies an art-filled
Renaissance palazzo that was one of the
most highly anticipated hotel openings in
2008. This enchanted urban sanctuary has
117 sun-filled guest rooms and suites — no
two alike and many featuring exquisite
architectural details such as vaulted ceilings,
frescoed walls, original ceramic floors, silk
wall coverings, antique porcelain and much
more. Years of painstaking renovation
delayed the opening time and again, but the
end result was definitely worth the wait and now must be savored. We did a hard-hat tour in March,
months before completion. The property is so expansive that it took two hours, but we were very
impressed and they’ve opened to rave reviews. The location is a tiny bit awkward (about a 30-minute
brisk walk to the Duomo), but I’m positive Four Seasons will have sorted that out with complimentary
shuttle service and this neighborhood is certain to be the up-and-coming area in Florence for top boutiques
and restaurants.
blue (dressed with the most sumptuous of silk curtains and
handmade fringes) and a truly fairytale bathroom marry the
traditional with the contemporary. Whatever your style there is
something at The Goring for any Anglophile. The hallmark of
their redecoration can be summed up in two words — quintessentially
English!
■ London’s Goring Hotel gets a facelift — A range of top British
designers have been commissioned to refurbish the interiors at
The Goring in London. These have included David Linley,
Russell Sage (Gainsborough Silks), Tim Gosling and Nina
Campbell. Each brings their own distinctive style to their rooms.
Linley’s Dining Room has been a terrific success with a romantic,
fresh style. Set against a background of 12 different creams,
the exquisite woodwork and pale silks of the chairs redefine
English elegance. Tim Gosling has brought a contemporary style
to the three balcony rooms (#38 is a particular gem) but his
refurbishment of the Lounge, Bar (one of the most convivial in
London) and Terrace has been wonderfully inspired by the
Empire period when England was famously beating Napoleon.
On a recent stay, we liked our lunch in the sunny yellow bar so
much, we went back the same evening for dinner!
Russell Sage’s rooms celebrate the great silks of a bygone age.
Nina Campbell, regarded as perhaps the greatest English interior
designer of our time, has designed several suites for the
hotel. Her cool signature shades of dove grey and duck-egg
■ Sicily with a twist — Sicily is a favorite Frontiers destination —
truly a crossroads of civilization — and touched by the
Phoenecians, Greeks, Romans, Moors, and Normans. In addition
to its rich historical tapestry that is well worth discovering,
we’ve recently been introduced to a cooking school in between
Palermo and Agrigento that is run by an Italian family who’ve
been clients of Frontiers for years. The school is run by Anna
Tasca Lanza from the family
homestead, Tasca d’Almerita,
where they also produce excellent
wine. Because of their philosophy
that eating in Sicily is a
ritual, the courses are based on
traditional Sicilian cooking, that
of the monsu (the cooks of the
great aristocratic families), as
well as more simple fare.
Always emphasizing the freshest
local ingredients, one can
enroll for a “lesson and lunch”
starting at €150 up to a 5-day
more intensive course at
€2500. Combining demonstration
and practical training, the
only prerequisites are curiosity
and enthusiasm.
9

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
What’s Up Down Under
Southern Ocean Lodge
Great new property on Kangaroo Island
Kangaroo Island has been called “Australia’s Galapagos.” Located in
the Southern Ocean off the coast of South Australia, the island
abounds with unique Australian wildlife. A visit to Kangaroo Island
is an integral part of any visit to South Australia but, until recently,
accommodation choices were limited to bed-and-breakfasts and
the occasional farmstay. That has now changed with the opening
of Southern Ocean Lodge, Kangaroo Island’s first luxury lodge.
Floating atop a secluded cliff, the lodge and its 21 guest suites
command stunning views of the wild Southern Ocean coast and
the pristine Kangaroo Island wilderness. In this breathtaking setting,
Southern Ocean Lodge features art work commissioned from
local artisans, a reflection of the finest in creature comforts that lie
ahead. Expert chefs, committed to showcasing the island’s bounty,
make every meal a memorable culinary experience, complemented
by the finest regional vintages. The Southern Ocean Lodge
Spa Retreat is the perfect place to enjoy the ultimate in pampering.
This is a complete and personal Kangaroo Island experience. Guests
choose from a varied list of guided excursions, all included in the
tariff. View sea lions at sunrise, explore the nearby Kelly Hill Caves,
gaze at the unfamiliar Southern Hemisphere constellations, or travel
further afield to find penguins, kangaroos, koalas and many other
unusual inhabitants of this amazing “zoo without boundaries.”
Kangaroo Island has long been a favorite of ours and many of our
clients. Southern Ocean Lodge is a welcome enhancement to one
of Australia’s unique destinations.
Sal Salis
Australia’s Great Barrier Reef is justifiably recognized as one of the
world’s great wonders. Another amazing marine attraction is
Western Australia’s teeming Ningaloo Reef on the North West
Cape, accessed via flight service from Perth to Exmouth. Sal Salis,
an exclusive safari camp with an all-inclusive policy, provides the
ultimate in “wild bush luxury” on the shores of the Indian Ocean.
Guests stay in platform tents situated on the coastal dunes just
back from the beach. Lest you think you’ll be “roughing it,” keep in
mind that the key comforts of a wonderfully comfortable bed, 500-
thead-count sheets, a choice of pillows, luxuriously soft towels,
and an en suite bathroom all give new meaning to “tent accommodation.”
Located on higher ground, the main camp building
offers views to the reef and the breakers beyond. Delicious contemporary
Australian cuisine is served as the sun sets over the
ocean and kangaroos come for their evening graze.
600 species of mollusks await. Swim with whale sharks (April-June),
view the turtles hatching (January-June), and see the manta rays offshore
(July-September). Sea kayak in the Blue Lagoon, a deep natural
aquarium where huge schools of fish swim among the coral.
The Sal Salis literature states: “Our aim is to inspire and provoke
thought in the activities we deliver and to increase awareness of
the dangers that may impact this wildly beautiful and pristine
place.” Well said!
Judy Greene
The preeminent reason to visit Ningaloo is the unique opportunity to
view the wonders of the coastal reef and inshore waters. Snorkel just
off the beach where over 500 species of fish, 250 coral species and
10

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Mountain gorilla trekking is becoming increasingly popular as a
tourist activity, but with a limited number of permits, only a select
few are granted this incredible opportunity. Adventure seekers are
beginning to add gorilla safaris to their ”Bucket List” as a must-do
and I fully concur!
Rwanda &
Uganda
Rwanda and Uganda’s Gentle
Giants – Up Close and Personal
MYHEARTWAS STOLEN BYONE PLAYFUL LITTLE 9-YEAR-OLD
THAT WAS INTRIGUED WITH MY HUSBAND’S PANT LEG. The
adorable gorilla gave a couple of tugs, like a child attempting to
get his mother’s attention, and then realized he had a captive
audience of eight trekkers in the middle of the rain forest. He
proceeded to climb a nearby tree and hung single-handed from
a branch, swinging back and forth for about 10 minutes, and
then imitated a nearby adult gorilla by beating his hands
against his chest before scooting off to join the rest of his family.
During our treks in Uganda and Rwanda last April, we had the
opportunity to view 53 gorillas including two newborns and the
heart-piercing encounter of silverbacks up to 550 pounds.
The mountain gorillas are located in Africa along the bordering countries
of Rwanda, Uganda and the Congo (DRC). In Rwanda, Parc
National des Volcans (the Volcanoes National Park) is estimated to
be home to approximately 350 of the 700 endangered mountain
gorillas. The 1994 civil war and
poaching further endangered
their survival, but with Rwanda’s
return to stability and great conservation
efforts, the fate of the
gorillas has improved.
Nicknamed “land of a thousand
hills,” Rwanda is known for its
positive change and gradual reconciliation.
Other attractions
Keep in mind that this is a
perfect add-on to an East
African safari as well as a
stand-alone trip, and gorilla
tracking greatly benefits the
local communities and
conservation of these
endangered species.
include seeing the golden monkeys, trekking to Dian Fossey’s
Karisoke Research Center, visiting the genocide memorial, climbing
Visoke/Muhabura volcanoes, or relaxing at Lake Kivu.
Renowned for its physical beauty, Uganda offers a variety of
wildlife viewing options in the Kibale Forest, Queen Elizabeth
National Park, and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. The name
”Impenetrable” is an under-statement considering its dense vegetation
and vines in a lush rain forest. Gorilla trekking in Bwindi
can be extremely arduous but very rewarding. You can enjoy
chimpanzee tracking, visiting the Maramagambo bat cave, game
viewing, and a trip to the source of the Nile.
My Ugandan and Rwandan hosts, Volcanoes Safaris, were named
one of the “Best Adventure Travel Companies on Earth” by
National Geographic ADVENTURE magazine in its February 2009
issue. They were awarded this accolade as a result of excelling in
environmental awareness, reliable service, local knowledge, safety
and highly educated guides. No other company has invested so
heavily in the area around the mountain gorilla parks in Uganda
and Rwanda. Each of their three intimate lodges consists of eight
bandas with en suite facilities, all set in stunning locations offering
panoramic views, warm hospitality, and hearty meals.
Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge
Volcanoes Mount Gahinga Lodge
12

Another attractive feature of a gorilla trekking safari is that usually
there are only eight travelers to a group. Minimum age is 15; maximum
is normally 80 if you are in good physical condition. An average
gorilla trek can take three to ten hours and is led by
experienced and knowledgeable guides. Adjusting to the elevation
(Rwanda 9,842 feet and Uganda 8,553 feet) and the terrain can be
a challenge, and once you have located the gorillas, you are limited
to one magical hour with them. After this exceptional journey,
guests staying at Volcanoes Safaris lodges are rewarded with a complimentary
massage to help ease sore muscles.
Both countries are year-round destinations although the dry seasons
are considered to be May-September and December-February. Since
the gorilla’s habitat is in the rain forests, keep in mind that it can
rain at any time of the year and tracking can be slow and muddy
but not impassable. In the mountainous areas, it is much colder
than on the plains and the rainfall is greater. The tracking experience
in Rwanda and Uganda is very different so it’s best to take at
least one trek in each country. If your time is limited, I would recommend
trekking in Rwanda, which is a little easier due to the light
mountain vegetation. Also, there are currently more permits available
per day in Rwanda (56) than in Uganda (32) and the average
tracking time in Uganda tends to be longer and steeper.
Yes, it is all about the experience, and we would welcome the
opportunity to recreate this for you!
Kathy Schulz
Volcanoes Mount
Gahinga Lodge
HOW TO GET THERE
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest,
Uganda — fly to Entebbe
International Airport; 1-hour
private charter flight or a
10-hour drive
Parc National des Volcans,
Rwanda — fly to Kigali
International Airport; 2-2.5
hour drive
Bwindi to/from Parc
National des Volcans —
5-hour drive or 30-minute
charter flight
Dispelling the myths about being on safari in Africa
Myth: Africa is a single country and mostly
comprised of jungle and desert.
Reality: Africa is a continent consisting of
53 countries of different nationalities and
cultures; an estimated 2,000 languages are
spoken. Although Africa contains the world’s
largest equatorial forest, it has tremendous
ecological and geographical diversity including
the largest desert in the world, snowcapped
mountains, tropical forests,
grassland, mixed savanna and pine forests,
all within a huge climatic range.
Myth: Being on safari means sitting in a
vehicle everyday spotting wildlife.
Reality: You can also enjoy horseback, elephant
back, camel back, and walking safaris;
whitewater rafting; bungee jumping and
repelling; exploring in dugout canoes; hotair
ballooning; spa treatments; gyms; hiking,
fishing and swimming; and visiting a local
village, school or conservation project.
Myth: Being on safari means “roughing it.”
Reality: Established safaris offer all the
adventure you would expect while still
delivering the ultimate in comforts.
Accommodations range from budget to
uber-deluxe with some tented facilities
boasting air conditioning, private plunge
pools, butler service, phone/Internet service,
and separate his/her bathrooms. We know
the best camps, lodges and safari operators
and can recommend the right safari for you
based on your objectives.
Myth: Being on safari means eating exotic
foods.
Reality: The diversity of each country is
reflected in the cuisine. With exceptional
natural ingredients at their fingertips, camp
chefs prepare delectable dishes sure to
please any palate. Paired with world-class
wines, the preparation and presentation of
homemade soups, fresh breads, pastries,
filet mignon and lobster thermidor is
renowned. Several properties have even
earned Michelin status.
Myth: Being on safari is dangerous.
Reality: Basic precautions should always be
taken, but the highly trained guides know
the wildlife, and your safety is of utmost
importance. We constantly monitor the U.S.
State Department travel warnings regarding
politically inspired violence and do not send
clients to such areas. The African people are
very peaceful, warm, genuine and hospitable.
Myth: Being on safari may subject me to illness
or disease.
Reality: Required immunizations are very
few for the countries most tourists visit, and
with proper preventive measures, you
should not experience any problems.
13

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Africa News
■ Wilderness Safaris’ new Kalahari Plains Camp in Botswana is
proving to be a fantastic success! Purple pod terminalia trees
provide shade and its elevated position on a dune crest
means a cooling breeze is often a welcome addition. What
makes this camp special is its location close to the famous
game-rich Deception Valley of Central Kalahari Game Reserve,
offering easy access for morning and evening wildlife activity
peaks. Recent sightings include lion, cheetah, leopard in
camp, suricates (meerkats), hundreds of gemsbok (oryx) and
springbok, wildebeest, red hartebeest, jackal with pups, Cape
fox with pups, honey badger and 125 bird species. Camp staff
includes local San Bushmen who add further insight into the
region. An ideal complement to camps in the Okavango Delta
and Linyanti, this area will become an integral part of a traditional
Botswana circuit in the future.
■ Wilderness’s Zibadianja Camp, upgraded to an exquisite
Premier camp in 2008, has undergone a name change; it is
now called Zarafa Camp (Arabic for giraffe, a common sight
on the floodplains of the Selinda Reserve). Zarafa’s four oversize
marquis-style canvas tents accommodate eight guests,
ideal for a private party of friends or a family. Each tent is decorated
with campaign-style furniture made of recycled wood
from the sunami, a view over the floodplain, and special
touches like a Canon 40D camera for guests to borrow, a Mac
computer to download and edit photos, and reading glasses
on the writing desk. The camp runs purely on solar energy
and their kitchen turns out the most delicious and artfully presented
food we’ve experienced on safari. Stunning!
14

Lukula Selous
■ South Africa will host the 2010 FIFA World Cup, the biggest
sporting event in the world. Three million tickets are on sale
now and range in price starting from as little as US$20 and
range up to US$900 for those matches in greater demand.
World Cup will take place in cities all over South Africa from
mid-June to mid-July 2010.
■ Northern Air Maintenance, a partner of Sefofane that handles
all aircraft maintenance in Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe
and Zambia, has pioneered the commercial use of a more
economical and environmentally friendly diesel engine for
Cessna 172 aircraft. This engine uses 40 percent less fuel than
a conventional engine, is quieter and faster. Most guests use
light aircraft charters in/out of the safari camps, and this will
further reduce our environmental carbon footprint.
Selous Project – walking safari
■ Sanctuary Retreats is celebrating its 10th Anniversary by
offering two free nights on safari. In Tanzania, book a 6-night
safari to Swala in the Tarangire and Kusini in the Serengeti,
and only pay for 4 nights (minimum stay 3 nights/each
camp). Offer is valid for new bookings only from February 1-
August 31 and is subject to availability.
■ The latest hot safari destination is the Selous Project and
Lukula Selous in the Selous Game Reserve in southeastern
Tanzania. Great Plains, the African and Indian Ocean conservation
organization, has developed this private 300,000-acre
sanctuary where a maximum of 8 guests are allowed into the
entire area at any given time. The partners in the project
include the intrepid eco-minded Colin Bell (former CEO of
Wilderness Safaris), Dereck and Beverly Joubert (photographers,
writers, filmmakers — National Geographic documentaries),
Mark Read (WWF South Africa) and Paul Harris
(entrepreneur with passion for wildlife and tourism). In 1982
the Selous Game Reserve was designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site due to the diversity of its wildlife and undisturbed
nature.
■ One&Only is set to open its newest resort in Cape Town in
April ‘09, setting a new standard of luxury in South Africa and
creating an oasis of style amidst the vibrant playground of one
of the world’s most fascinating cities. Situated in the Victoria &
Alfred Waterfront, the 91-room resort will feature the largest
rooms and suites in Cape Town, the first Nobu restaurant in
Africa, private Spa Island, KidsOnly Club, and One&Only
Boutique. Its crescent-shaped architecture was created so all
guest rooms and suites enjoy the majesty of Table Mountain.
Kathy Schulz
One&Only, Cape Town
15

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
■ Abercrombie & Kent has completed renovating two properties
they acquired in Zambia last year. Sussi & Chuma Lodge,
located on the Upper Zambezi near Victoria Falls and named
for Livingstone’s two trusted bearers, has been beautifully
refurbished. This is a raised camp with 12 equal cottages, a spa
treatment room, and attractive bi-level public area. Sister property
Puku Camp, located in South Luangwa National Park, was
rebuilt completely. This intimate property, just 7 tents, is perfect
for a private party and provides a true safari experience.
We stayed in Tent #5 (“Lion”), sublimely decorated in Jorie
Kent’s signature style in shades of moss green. Puku also
serves some of the best food in Zambia. Nearby Chichele
Presidential Lodge, a throwback to Africa‘s colonial days, will
close in 2009 for total renovation. It promises to be spectacular!
Once completed, A&K will have an outstanding circuit in
Zambia — at about half the price of neighboring Botswana!
■ Looking for unabashed luxury in the bush We’ve found it for
sure at the Singita Grumeti Reserves in northwestern Tanzania,
bordering Serengeti National Park in a 340,000-acre concession
and comprising of three exclusive safari lodges: Sasakwa
Lodge, Sabora Tented Camp and Faru Faru Lodge. If the truly
over-the-top accommodations aren’t enough (think Ralph
Lauren Polo flagship store and then pinch yourself, this is the
REAL DEAL!), because it is an exclusive reserve, it is available
only to lodge
guests. That means
this huge tract of
land is for 60
guests maximum
so you will hardly
ever encounter
another vehicle,
drive off the roads
if you need or want to, get out of the vehicle for a sundowner
— surely this is the ultimate in luxury. We relished every
minute of our two-night stay (not enough) at Sasakwa Lodge
set on a high promontory with awe-inspiring views over the
Serengeti plains. This is the pinnacle of civilization with Stuart
crystal, Wedgwood china and the biggest display of Patrick
Mavros silver I’ve ever seen. We also had one of the top guide
experiences in multiple trips to Africa — Alfred’s enthusiasm
was contagious indeed. In between game drives, there were
plenty of distractions, from enjoying our private pool, a muchneeded
manicure after two weeks on safari, massages, a fully
equipped gym and, for those who must, complete WiFi.
Mollie Fitzgerald
16

Photographic Safari in East Africa
Hosted by Barry and Cathy Beck
June 18-July 1, 2009
Professional photographers, writers and trip leaders, Barry and
Cathy Beck have written several books and their photos and articles
regularly appear in many publications. Throughout the year,
these consummate hosts escort
groups for Frontiers to destinations
around the world.
We’ve custom-designed this very
special itinerary to include the
Ngorongoro Crater, the
Serengeti, the Masai Mara and
one of the most eagerly awaited and avidly observed wildlife
spectacles on earth — the annual Great Migration. Whether you’re
a first-time visitor to Africa or a repeat traveler, this safari promises
to fulfill every expectation!
Join Barry and Cathy for a deluxe private safari in East Africa, June
18-July 1, 2009. Frontiers received high praise from the participants
of our previous Beck-hosted safaris and many have expressed a
desire to return to the “Dark Continent” with them. Please contact
Rose McKay today as there are only four spaces left.
Photographic Safari in Botswana
Hosted By Mike Fitzgerald, Jr.
July 22-30, 2010
Botswana’s Okavango Delta is one of Africa’s most incredible
wildlife and wilderness sanctuaries. Join Frontiers’ co-owner, Mike
Fitzgerald, Jr., on this exceptional itinerary offering a superb combination
of the best game viewing, wonderful
accommodations and unparalleled service by
the premier outfitting company in southern
Africa, Wilderness Safaris. We will stay at Savuti,
situated in the Linyanti Concession along the
Savuti Channel in northern Botswana, and
Duba Plains, perhaps the Okavango Delta’s
most remote camp. Each location provides a distinctive, contrasting
African experience, giving us insight into the unique flora and fauna
found in Botswana’s delta and savanna regions.
Each of these facilities is being held exclusively for our party. We
will explore Africa staying under canvas, which is how Africa should
be experienced! Be assured, however, these tented accommodations
provide wonderful modern conveniences and truly exceptional
amenities. This trip is limited to just twelve guests and we
anticipate that this departure will fill quickly. Contact Kathy Schulz
or Mike for complete details.
17

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Himba child
The Ever-
Changing
Landscapes of
Namibia
LOCATED ON AFRICA’S SOUTHWEST COAST, NAMIBIA
PORTRAYS THE ESSENCE OF TIMELESSNESS as its towering
burnt-orange sand dunes evoke an incredible sense of freedom
far removed from the rest of the world. The ethereal
quality of the shifting sands at dusk draws photographers
from all over to capture this spectacle of changing hues.
Our friends at Wilderness Safaris represent thirteen camps in Namibia, including
three premier camps in diverse areas that create an ideal circuit. An acclaimed
desert retreat, Little Kulala is located near the majestic, world-renowned
Sossusvlei dunes. The eleven climate-controlled, thatched rooms merge into the
natural surroundings, each with a rooftop ‘skybed’ for stargazing, indoor and
outdoor showers, and a private plunge
pool. A myriad of activities aid guests in
appreciating the overwhelming magnitude,
solitude and tranquility of the surroundings.
Especially popular is a hot-air
balloon flight soaring silently above the
colorful desert.
Serra Cafema, the most remote camp,
is set among huge, ancient albida trees on the banks of the Kunene River. The
camp features eight canvas and thatched rooms. Activities here are many and
varied including boating, swimming, walking, quad-biking excursions, and visiting
the nomadic Himba people, who represent one of the most colorful and
ancient tribes in all of sub-Saharan Africa.
Serra Cafema – Room interior and private deck
Little Ongava is situated in the Ongava Game Reserve adjacent to the Etosha
Pan within Etosha National Park, one of Africa’s finest. The park is home to elephant,
rhino, lion, leopard, cheetah, zebra, blue wildebeest, a variety of buck,
the unique black impala, and the endearing Damara dik-dik plus remarkable
birdlife including ostrich, flamingos and pelicans. Little Ongava is an intimate
and exclusive lodge with only three spacious luxurious suites, each with its own
plunge pool, sala and outdoor shower.
Namibia is also host to one of the most intriguing areas anywhere on earth —
the infamous Skeleton Coast Park. The coast is named for the bleached whale
and seal bones covering the shore, remnants of the defunct whaling industry,
as well as over 1,000 shipwrecked vessels that litter this inhospitable area. The
Skeleton Coast has everything, from the fascinating “roaring” sand dunes and
windswept plains to towering canyons and saltpans. The early morning mist off
the Atlantic Ocean sustains a surprising amount of life, from large mammals to
the extraordinary welwitschia plant that can live for 1,000 years.
Namibia, also known by the ancient Bushman as “the land that God made in
anger,” is a harsh, mysterious, but strikingly beautiful country. Its untamed
sandy wilderness rich in fossils and gemstones, desert-adapted wildlife, hardy
species of fauna and flora, and cultural heritage provides memories and
impressions ranked among the best in Africa. Namibia does not have the high
density of wildlife that neighboring countries such as Botswana possess, but
rather the emphasis is on the fascinating environment and dramatic landscapes.
Namibia is enjoyed by first-timers and veteran travelers to Africa alike.
Etosha National Park – Black rhino
Rose McKay
18

Spain
Barcelona and Her Environs
ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF MY VISIT TO
BARCELONA WAS DISCOVERING THE DEPTH OF
ANTONI GAUDI AND ALL HIS WORKS. I knew of
Gaudi’s designs before arriving, but until you see
them in person, you do not understand his genius.
Born in Reus, Spain, Gaudi studied architecture in
Barcelona. Over the course of his career he developed
a sensuous, curving, almost surreal design style
which established him as the innovative leader of the
Spanish Art Nouveau movement.
There are several sites to explore. The Casa Batllo, the Casa Mila, the
Colonia Guell and my two favorites, Park Guell and Sagrada Familia
(still under construction). The Park Guell was originally destined to be
a housing development. This idea failed and the site was donated to
the city as a permanent park instead. You can wander through this
park for hours, and a guide can give you such amazing history. Antoni
Gaudi was not only an architect but also an artist with an innate engineering
sense. The Sagrada Familia has to be his crowning glory
although it was unfinished at his death in 1926. You can spend hours
examining just the outside of the cathedral, let alone the inside. Make
sure to save lots of time for this impressive Gaudi site.
If you want to learn more about this great man, there is a new
museum in his hometown of Reus, located an hour and a half
south of Barcelona. This quaint town’s streets are lined with shops,
outdoor cafes and restaurants, and its wonderful museum gives you
insight into the splendor and breadth of Gaudi’s works.
For a break from the city, drive north along the coast from
Barcelona to Lloret de Mar and the fabulous Alva Park Resort Hotel
& Spa. Its enormous rooms, some with private steam bath, are
beautifully decorated and overlook the sea. Among the numerous
amenities is an electric train set up in the kids’ bedroom in the family
suite, and the kids club is one of the best I have seen. The staff
and the food are phenomenal. The Spa is truly amazing — try the
incredibly relaxing Indian Princess Bath. Guests have a smart car at
their disposal for a couple hours a day to explore the lovely Costa
Brava coastline. There are a few more surprises at this hotel, but
they would be more fun to discover on your own!
Please call for brochures or more information about the city of
Barcelona, Reus or the Alva Park Resort & Spa.
Meredith McNaugher
19

20
Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
TWENTY YEARS AGO, DROLL BRITISH
AUTHOR PETER MAYLE COMPILED A COL-
LECTION OF HILARIOUS ANECDOTES
detailing the experiences he had while renovating
a farmhouse in the south of France,
which became the extremely popular book
A Year in Provence, and the local real estate
has never been the same. The region is on
every Francophile’s “destination list” (if they
haven’t already been), and I’m often asked:
“What will I DO in Provence How shall I
spend my days” Therefore, taking two of
our longtime favorite properties and one
extraordinary newcomer, please review
some of our favorite “Jaunts in Provence.”
France
Jaunts in Provence
By Jill Jergel
“Frontiers’ arrangements met all the needs of our diverse group,
ages 6-68. All had a great time and enjoyed every day. It was
also packed with new experiences for those of us who had been
to France once or twice before. Great attention to detail and
attention to our budget limitations. All the side trips
recommended were great. All memorable.
All the staff at Frontiers were consistently friendly and enthusiastic
about planning a perfect trip for us. Every question and request
was responded to promptly. It’s truly a professional team.”
E.P., Virginia
From the beautiful VILLA GALLICI, in Aix-en-Provence:
Located an easy 10-minute walk from the lively shops
and cafés that line the historic square of this university
town, the plus-perfect interior appointments of beautiful
Villa Gallici, an 18th-century mansion, are a
Provençal decorator’s dream. Beautiful fabrics, carefully
selected artwork, and terraces with gurgling fountains
complete the scene. Add to this helpful, friendly service
under the eye of GM Dominique Ladet, and Villa
Gallici becomes one of our favorite recommendations
in the region.
WHAT TO DO: A 50-minute drive south of Aix-en-Provence
lands you in one of the most charming seaside towns in
the region, Cassis. Blessed with several fabulous restaurants
famous for the freshest fish from the Mediterranean,
Cassis is also the starting point for walking trails and boat
cruises that tour the Calanques. This protected and
unspoiled stretch of coastline between Cassis and
Marseille has sharp limestone cliffs that provide guests
with a unique and striking view, and one of the best
walking paths in the country called the Grande
Randonnée. A less strenuous way to see the Calanques,
and perhaps a better way to appreciate the towering
cliffs, can be enjoyed by booking one of the motorboat
excursions that leave from the Cassis harbor. The cruise
zigs and zags into little harbors and beaches. On your
return, have lunch on the harborside terrace at Chez Nino,
the local institution, to taste their famous bouillabaisse.

A brand-new member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux just
opened in the wilds of Haute Provence called LE COUVENT DES
MINIMES. Owned by the successful purveyors of lavender oils,
lemon verbena and honey soaps — l’Occitaine (whose headquarters
are in nearby Manosque) — this former convent turned Provencal
hideaway has a fabulous gourmet restaurant and one of the most
stunning spas you’ll ever see in France and perhaps all of Europe.
This bucolic mountain retreat is far from Peter Mayle’s touristic
Provence. Here you see sheep grazing in the nearby fields and must
watch for the occasional wild boar crossing the road. To discover the
simple and untouristed side of Provence, up in the hills where the
lavender grows, treat yourself to the sublime treatments and stellar
cuisine of Couvent des Minimes.
WHAT TO DO: Many lovely visits abound from this location that I call
the “Colorado of Provence.” Nearby Forcalquier not only has daily
hot-air balloon rides but also is a picturesque and historic “living” village
that used to be the capital of Haute-Provence in the Middle
Ages. They have a fabulous Monday marché that has a huge variety
of organic fruits and vegetables plus bakers with an assortment of
Pain a l’Ancienne — recipes baked in the old style. Only an hour
away is the extremely charming village of Moustiers where you can
shop for their special design of faience pottery and have lunch at the
Michelin-starred Bastide de Moustiers. Another fun visit is to tour the
l’Occitaine headquarters where everything inside smells DELICIOUS,
and then have a hike in the ancient village of Ganogobie.
WHAT TO DO: Aside from the abundance of sights within ancient
Arles itself, guests at Hotel Particulier are recommended to travel
southwest into the fabled Camargue, one of the largest regional
parks in the country and some of the wildest and most protected in
all of Europe. Home to more than 400 species of birds (the most
famous is certainly the flamingo), the region also is home to the
Camargue bull and the Camargue horse. Towns include the
medieval walled fortress town of Aigues-Mortes and Saintes Maries
de la Mer, which is the capital of the Camargue and a pilgrimage
destination for European gypsies.
Consider the urban enclave tucked away in a side street of Arles,
HOTEL PARTICULIER, owned (and decorated) by the elegant Brigitte
Pagès de Oliveira, who is one of those women with effortless, chic
French style. The hotel is an 18th-century townhouse framing a massive
central courtyard that can only be identified as “Bali meets
Provençal” with lanterns, urns and pedestals showing off perfect
white pillar candles tucked into ivy-clad corners. Bedrooms are light,
bright, and reflective of Brigitte’s unique eye, and for dinner you
need go no further than the small hotel’s stylish restaurant for creative
regional cuisine. As Brigitte says, “sérénité en coeur de ville.”
Villa Gallici Le Couvent des Minimes Hotel Particulier
21

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Lake Bled
Fall in Love with sLOVEnia
By Kirsten Gardner
I never imagined that one of the best culinary experiences in my
young (but gastronomically sophisticated) existence would occur
in tiny Slovenia, in the alpine town of Kobarid mentioned by
Hemingway in A Farewell to Arms. Called Caporetto by the
Italians, he described Kobarid as “a little white town with a campanile
in a valley . . . a clean little town and there was a fine
fountain in the square.” Unfortunately for Ernest, about 65 years
prevented him from savoring one of the town’s main attractions
today, the fantastic Topli Val restaurant and arguably the finest
cuisine in the country (think trout pate, Normandy oysters, etc.)
paired with delicious Slovenian wines. As I indulged in the signature
sorbet, it occurred to me that this unexpectedly wonderful
dining experience, in a town noted as one of WWI’s monumental
battles, is exactly what delights first-time visitors to this central
European gem; diverse Slovenia is infused with enough flavor to
appease every palate.
Slovenia
The rolling Brda Hills
A rainbow trout from
the Sava River
If you haven’t heard of Slovenia, you’re
in for a treat. When declaring independence
from Yugoslavia in 1991, a quick
secession allowed the economically
strong fledgling country to quickly find its
feet, join the United Nations and gain
admittance to NATO and the European
Union. Touted by the tourist board as the
“Sunny Side of the Alps,” Slovenia is situated
between the Julian Alps and the
Adriatic and borrows cultural and culinary
pages from its neighbors (Italy,
Austria, Croatia and Hungary) while penning
its own intriguing story. Similar in size to Connecticut, 5-7 days
allows for an exploration of the western half of the country with its
varied topography starting with magnificent Mt. Triglav, featured on
the national flag. In the southwest, you have the brief (46 miles
total) but picturesque Mediterranean-style coastline, the intriguing
Karst, home of the UNESCO World Heritage Škocjan Caves and the
Brda and Vipava wine regions. The capital city of Ljubljana lies
smack in the middle. Eastern Slovenia has its share of appeals
(darling medieval Ptuj, delicious white wines from the Podravje, to
name but a few), but the true standout is the West, and first-time
visitors are wise to spend most of their time “left” of Ljubljana.
The Wild, Wonderful West
If the great outdoors is your forte, consider a few nights in the
Lake Bled area. The cerulean blue water, ringed with alpine
peaks and punctuated with a church-topped island, is one of the
most beautiful scenes in central Europe. Lay your head at the
lakefront Grand Hotel Toplice or the slightly removed Vila Bled,
former summer home of the late but still much revered Josef
Broz Tito. Spend the day strolling around the lake, visiting the
Church of the Assumption via pletna (Bled’s version of the gondola),
and hiking up to explore Bled Castle. A second day allows
22

for a leisurely visit to nearby Lake
Bohinj, equally stunning but with more
rustic charm and pleasant walking trails,
and imposing Mt. Vogel, which can be
hiked, but also ascended by cable lift. If
you travel in September, consider
attending the Cow’s Ball, a festive
weekend of folk music, food, drink and
dance celebrating the bovine’s return
from mountainous summer pastures.
From Bled, anglers, hikers and history Piran from the Ramparts
buffs should flock to the Socˇa River
Valley, accessed either via the car-train
or the stunning Vršicˇ Pass, a winding road through Triglav National
Park that shouldn’t be attempted by the faint of heart. In the Socˇa
Valley, marked by the snaking turquoise waters of Slovenia’s most
famous river (and home to the reclusive marble trout), you will
find Kobarid with its stellar and award-winning WWI museum.
Visitors can learn more by taking the three-mile Kobarid historical
walk and work up an appetite for dinner at Topli Val or other “slow
food” restaurants such as the renowned Hisa Franko.
For those interested in the vine, bid the alpine peaks goodbye and
continue south to the rolling hills of Brda and the Vipava Valley,
where Slovenia’s best grapes are cultivated amidst a landscape
reminiscent of Tuscany. In Brda lies the Movia winery, Slovenia’s
most prominent producer. Eighth generation grower Aleš Kristancˇicˇ
has made an international splash with his penchant for biodynamic
viticulture, (organic wine production), but casual oenophiles
more interested in taste than technique should visit some smaller
producers as well. Guests are warmly welcomed with a sample of
vintages accompanied by a plate of fresh-baked bread and the
local prsut (prosciutto).
Farther south, the coast and Karst region appeal with a mix of topographical
and subterranean attractions. Geologically unique, the
name Karst refers to a porous limestone expanse that allows for
disappearing lakes and rivers as well as an intricate system of
underground caves. The most impressive of these is the immense
Škocjan Caves, a true marvel to explore. For anyone who is physically
able, this is a must-see. The paths
are narrow, sometimes steep and often
slippery.
Emerge from the underground to soak up
some sun along Slovenia’s coastline,
stopping in Lipica, the birthplace of
Lipizzaner horses. Don’t let the absence
of sandy beaches deter you; there’s
plenty to enjoy in the terra-cotta-colored
towns stretching to where the craggy
land touches the deep-blue Adriatic. Ljubljana's symbol recalls
Medieval Piran has the most soul and a the legend of Jason and
hike up its crumbling ramparts rewards
the Argonauts
with vistas overlooking the peninsula, and
Croatia and Italy visible in the distance. The sea salt harvested here
(Piranske soline) is prized by chefs worldwide, so definitely purchase
some to take home. Much of the pleasant main square’s
architecture hearkens to the town’s past as part of the Venetian
Empire, and the fresh seafood served is definitely Italian. I recommend
Riva, located near the tip of the peninsula and less populated
with tourists during my visit than some of the others on the
esplanade. A glass of wine while watching the Adriatic sunset from
the porch of the popular Café Teater was pure bliss.
A nation’s heart is its capital and Ljubljana, an emerging gem
among European cities, merits a night or two. Though on the euro,
the city is still quite a bargain when compared to other capitals
and is filled with interesting architecture of native son Jože Plecˇnik.
With a castle-topped hill on one side and the Ljubljanica River on
the other, the pedestrian-only Old Town is lined with funky boutiques,
cozy restaurants and outdoor cafes that are great for people
watching — especially Café Macˇek, where Ljubljana’s bright young
things go to see and be seen. I arrived in November during the
national wine festival, but there is a festive affair every weekend
including a craft and produce market, and an antique flea market
selling crumbling baroque sculptures, carved bread molds, traditional
lace, antique jewelry and Soviet military relics.
The Škocjan Caves, a subterranean
UNESCO World Heritage site
Kirsten Gardner traveled to Slovenia twice in 2008, and stands
ready to customize a trip for you to this fascinating part of the
world.
23

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
ROME IS HOME TO A NUMBER OF 5-STAR
“GRANDE DAME” HOTELS, WHICH WE KNOW
WELL; but if you prefer something a little smaller and
more intimate, consider our two favorite boutique
hotels in Rome.
Rome
Il Palazetto is a lovely new property with just four rooms, most overlooking
the Spanish Steps and directly across the street from its “big
sister,” the Hotel Hassler. The rooms are simple but luxurious, featuring
neutral tones with velvet and satin accents. Il Palazetto’s rooftop
terrace is a magical place to enjoy a glass of Prosecco and magnificent
views of the Eternal City. You sense that you are staying in your
own private residence, a perfect venue for a family or group of
friends. Full signing privileges at the Hassler entitles you to full use of
their facilities and amenities. As a bonus, the International Wine
Academy of Roma is located on the premises and offers wine tasting
courses featuring the best producers in Italy. These informal sessions
provide a unique opportunity to enrich and add luster to your travel
experience; the only participation
requirement is a curiosity and passionate
interest in the heritage of fine
wine and food.
Portrait Suites
Portrait Suites is located off the Via
Condotti and, therefore, in the heart
of historical Rome, the famed shopping
district, and within walking distance
of most major monuments. Part of the Lungarno family of
hotels owned by the legendary Italian Fashion House of Ferragamo,
the property is actually above the Ferragamo storefront. Memorabilia
of Salvatore Ferragamo’s life and career are displayed on the walls
and in the stairways. This little gem features 14 suites and studios.
Portrait Suites’ spacious accommodations are warm and inviting,
contemporary in design, and luxurious. A beautiful rooftop terrace
affords direct views of the Trinita dei Monti, the Spanish Steps, and
the city beyond. The service is very friendly and attentive, making
your stay in Rome unforgettable.
Rome sightseeing tip: If you’re looking for something more “off the
beaten path,” a day trip to Viterbo is a must! Located just north of
Rome, Viterbo is a charming medieval town with laundry hanging
from the windows, brightly colored flowers on the terraces, and narrow
cobbled streets lined with quaint little shops. It is considered
one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Italy and very popular
with film crews in search of authentic atmosphere.
Viterbo is also famous for the trasporto della Macchina di Santa
Rosa, a procession each September 3 commemorating the relocation
of the body of Saint Rosa from the Church of Santa Maria del
Poggio to the Church of San Damiano (the Sanctuary of Santa
Rosa). The Macchina di Santa Rosa is a gigantic, 30-meter structure
which is carried through the streets by a large team of strong local
men. There is a little shop that is completely dedicated to this event,
showing videos of past processions.
Colleen Wiley
24

Cruising
Cruising the Waterways of Europe in Style
The River Cloud and River Cloud II
NOT ONLY IS THE LURE OF UNPACKING ONCE AS YOU TRAVEL THROUGH EUROPE ENTICING, BUT IT IS ALSO AN
ENCHANTING WAY TO SEE THE VARIOUS SMALL TOWNS AND LARGE CITIES VIA SCENIC WATERWAYS. The River
Cloud is a luxury riverboat cruise ship designed to provide the highest degree of comfort and relaxation. From the
moment I stepped aboard and was greeted with a warm lemongrass cloth and a glass of sparkling water, I found
all effects of the international flight fading away. The next seven days allowed me to enjoy an uncluttered mind and
a fresh new sense of adventure.
Rich mahogany, brass, and beautifully etched glass make the 90-passenger
River Cloud a most attractive sailing vessel. The 39 cabins and
6 junior suites feature traditional décor and many electronic amenities.
I thoroughly enjoyed relaxing on the top deck with a fine glass
of wine and a great book from River Cloud’s library as we drifted by
the lovely scenery. I also took advantage of the gym/fitness/sauna
area and putting green as well as the charming piano bar.
Excellent cuisine and flawless service characterized the dining
experience throughout. My senses were delighted daily with
unique soups such as creamed asparagus and shrimp, a superb
palate-cleansing rose and champagne sorbet before a flaming
baked Alaska, and many memorable entrees. Each meal brought
an anticipation of culinary delights that never failed to deliver.
Creative itineraries abound. I was fortunate to take the Art &
Cultural Between Large and Small Canals River Cruise on Dutch
and Belgium waterways. This cruise took us through the unique
waterways of Holland and Belgium with stops at some very interesting
museums such as the Mauritshuis, which houses Vermeer’s
“Girl with the Pearl Earring.” To look at that painting is to lose track
of time and centuries. I absolutely delighted in the breathtaking
beauty of Rubens’ “Triumph of Rome” and Rembrandt’s “The
Laughing Man,” all works of genius. Another veritable treasure
trove of masterpieces is the Kroller-Muller Museum, which hosts
an amazing collection of Van Gogh, Picasso, and Monet. I would
be remiss not to mention the absolute trip highlight: the flower
exhibition at Keukenhof, a kaleidoscope of color, texture, and architecture
displaying over 6 million plants across 70 acres.
While on board River Cloud, you can choose to explore on your
own or join pre-designed daily outings with knowledgeable guides.
There are a number of River Journeys to experience such as The
Chocolate Trail through Cologne to Amsterdam, featuring interesting
places regarding the history of chocolate and art appreciation;
Stately Churches and Mighty Knights along Moselle, Rhine
and Main: Basel to Nuremburg, highlighting impressive architecture
and historical content; and the Roman Roots and Romantic
Rhine, Duesseldorf to Basel, which showcases incredible fairytale
castles. Other trips feature architectural treasures, historical sites,
culinary and wine delights, and more throughout the Netherlands,
Germany, Switzerland and Belgium. These diverse excursions not
only indulge your interests and passions but also provide the
opportunity to venture out at your own pace to explore the charming
towns and cities of Europe.
Lynda McDonough
25

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Bebel Platz from the rooftop
terrace of Hotel de Rome
Spree River Cruise
Checkpoint Charlie
Wilkommen toBerlin
A VISIT TO BERLIN, A VIBRANT CITY OF 3.5 MILLION, ASTONISHED ME WITH ITS WEALTH OF CULTURAL
RICHNESS, HISTORY, AND INCREDIBLE NEW ARCHITECTURE. With 170 museums, three opera houses
and six symphonies, there is certainly a bit of something for everyone! And this does not include the many
fun galleries and local shops featuring the more cutting-edge contemporary art by the local Berlin artists.
For this, head east into the cozy Barn district — duck in and out of the interesting galleries and shops for a
taste of the distinctive Berlin style jewelry, clothing and art.
Rich in history from the Prussian era to World War II and the Cold
War, Berlin is now incredibly captivating. The must-sees include the
Berlin Wall, Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag, and the Holocaust
Memorial. Berlin continues to enjoy a dynamic rebirth of new
architecture which is quite striking with works of world-renowned
architects in play, while refurbishing the old. Brandenburg Gate survived
World War II and was one of the few structures standing in
the Pariser Platz ruins in 1945. After the war, the governments of
East Berlin and West Berlin restored it in a joint effort.
Drive to Potsdam where Frederick the Great built the Sanssouci
Palace as a summer retreat to escape the pressures of Berlin. Its
name, which literally means “no worries” in French, is aptly named.
The building is quite impressive with its fabulous furnishings and
great collection of paintings, but the real showpiece is the beautifully
landscaped gardens in the surrounding park.
The Berliners have a steadfast drive and energy; they are always
out and about and truly appreciate their city. Throughout Berlin,
you will see restaurants, bars and cafes everywhere offering the
delightful opportunity to relax and converse. Especially lovely is the
Spree River at Museum Island at night. The inviting riverside bars
are perfect for sitting outside on a warm night, having a drink, and
enjoying the evening.
If you love to shop, the Famous Kurferstandamm Shopping District
in West Berlin is the place to go! The “K-Damm” as the locals call it
is a lively bustling boulevard for outdoor markets and street per-
20-Year Anniversary of the Fall of the Berlin Wall
The fall of the Berlin Wall marked a new beginning for Germany and post-cold war Europe. In
2009, the 20th anniversary of this historic event will be celebrated by the Berlin Festival of
Freedom from November 7-9. Held on both sides of the Brandenburg Gate, the Festival will
include a multimedia staging of the symbolic fall of the wall. Using a “domino effect,” specially
designed oversized wall stones will collapse all over again, brought down by the mutual efforts of
prominent artists, cultural figures and politicians.
To mark the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, Frontiers, in cooperation with our on-site German partners, is pleased to offer
tailor-made experiences to relive this defining moment in world history with tours led by experts who lived through it. With access to private
homes and collections, specially arranged curator walks through Berlin’s museums, and a survey of contemporary architecture, the
“20 Years After” program will focus on Berlin’s history as a divided city.
Enjoy a fun-filled ride on a ‘Trabi’ (the durable, plastic-bodied Trabant was the most common vehicle in East Germany) through Berlin. We
can also arrange a people-to-people meeting with a former prisoner of the East German regime or a visit to original sites of recent successful
films, “Goodbye Lenin” and “The Lives of Others,” immortalizing life in East Germany.
26

formers on the weekends as well. The
KaDeWe is the largest department store
in Europe.
The beauty of Berlin is that it is so
green, nowhere more so than the
Tiergarten – much like a mini Central
Park. The bike taxi through the park is
the way to see the tranquil woods,
ponds, old statues, and yes, be prepared
to see a few nude sunbathing men!
The Rocco Forte Hotel De Rome is ideally
located but equally quiet, and
encompasses much of what is unique
about Berlin. This Virtuoso property, formerly
an old bank, offers old architecture
coupled with contemporary-style
furnishings. For those who appreciate a
trendy and hip property, this hotel
comes highly recommended. And the
service is fabulous! The roof-top terrace
offes a spectacular view of East Berlin,
the Bebel Platz, and more! Try a massage
in the old vault!
Natasha Tichy and Sue Watson
Oberammergau
Passion Play 2010
Once a decade, the Bavarian village of
Oberammergau stages a Passion Play, following
a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. After the 30
Years’ War, the Black Death swept over Oberammergau in
1632; and nearly every family lost one or more of their loved
ones. The surviving villagers took a pledge to reenact the life of
Jesus Christ every 10 years if they were spared from extinction.
The first performance took place in1634; in 2010, the play will
be reenacted for the 41st time.
The play depicts the story of Jesus Christ’s passion, beginning with the entry into Jerusalem
and ending with the resurrection and transfiguration. Over 2,000 participants, almost half of
the village’s inhabitants, will participate. The upcoming Passion Play demonstrates a remarkable
continuity of a cultural tradition, kept alive for 376 years. The premiere takes place on
Saturday, May 15, ending on October 3, 2010.
We are pleased to offer one- and two-night packages to the Passion Play with accommodation
options ranging from deluxe hotels to charming rooms in private homes and holiday
apartments. Though 2010 seems a long way off, we encourage you to secure your reservations
now for preferred dates/accommodations because this event sells out before the
actual performance dates. We can design unique tailor-made extensions in Bavaria and
other parts of Germany.
27

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Thriving Russian Festivals
Imagine whisking in a troika (a sleigh pulled by three horses)
through a gorgeous winter paradise or stepping back in history to
party in the court of Peter the Great. Join the locals for a pancake
feast and vodka sampling. Welcome to Russia, the land of fascinating
culture deeply rooted in the fun-loving spirit of its people.
Russia’s rich and colorful ethnicity provides exceptional yearround
attractions of numerous festivals and celebrations. In
April/May, patrons of classical music can enjoy special concerts
at the Moscow and St. Petersburg Music Spring Festivals.
Vilnius
2009 European Capital of Culture During
the Millennium of Lithuania’s Name
This is a special year for Lithuania and Vilnius, its capital city. In
addition to celebrating the country’s millennium, Vilnius has been
chosen by the European Union as one of two 2009 European
Capitals of Culture. Vilnius is sharing the title with Linz, Austria.
From 1985 to 2009 this title was granted to 37 European cities with
Vilnius being the most eastward EU city ever to be recognized.
Throughout 2009, Vilnius will be a venue for more than 300 cultural,
art and musical programs. Home to distinguished violinist
Jascha Heifet, Vilnius will host concerts of classical, sacred, jazz,
rock, and pop music. The year is packed with numerous electrifying
venues including the Vilnius Opera Festival, London
Symphony Orchestra programs, and the Millennium Song
Festival. Approximately 40,000 performers from all over the
world are expected to participate in the song festival. A
Gastronomy Festival, Children Creativity Festival, and
International Film Festival are also included in the agenda.
The National Art Gallery will host the International Art Exhibition
“Color and Sound Dialogues.” It features the works of symbolism
and modernism artists including the great Lithuanian artist M. K.
Čiurlionis (1875-1911) and his contemporaries from Western and
Central Europe, such as Vasilij Kandinskij, Max Klinger, Pēter
Krastiš, František Kupka, Edvard Munch and many others.
One of the most romantic events is the White Nights Festival in
St. Petersburg held in honor of the summer solstice. The festival
begins in May with the “Stars of the White Nights” ballet and
opera series at the Marinsky Theater through July, and then performs
in Moscow and other Russian towns.
Among the White Nights most exuberant festivities is the Scarlet
Sales celebration of the end of the school year in June. Popular
for its fantastic fireworks and an immense folklore show, it is one
of the largest public events with over a million participants.
Don’t miss the series of popular carnivals hosted during the
White Nights at the Royal Palaces of Peterhof, Tsarskoe Selo and
Pavlovsk. Basking in their origin glory, the palatial grounds once
again transcend time by bringing alive various historic reenactments
including Peter the Great, Catherine the Great, and
Emperor Paul I. Enjoy a historic carriage ride through royal parks.
There are currently special promotions offered by leading
Russian hotels, such as the Astoria and the Angleterre, St.
Petersburg (stay 3 nights, get one free). The U.S. dollar is currently
very strong against the Russian ruble so travel is not only
culturally rewarding but also real value.
Named as one of the top Condé Nast Traveler specialists for
Russia in 2005-2009, Natasha Tichy has years of firsthand travel
there as well as planning expertise to make your trip to Russia
an experience of a lifetime.
Natasha Tichy
Russia
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, Vilnius’s Old Town
boasts beautiful baroque monuments and will be the venue of
the “Baroque Dialogues” program. This is a synthesis of baroque
arts, architecture, music, theater, literature and dance especially
presented in the city’s most elaborate churches and palaces.
Allow us to take you on a very special trip to Vilnius with its
extraordinary treasures spanning more than five centuries. Contact
Natasha Tichy, a Condé Nast Top Travel Specialist in the Baltic
Countries of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia, to receive additional
information about the 2009 events and plan a tailor-made visit.
Trinity
Monastery
in Sergiev
Posad
28

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Great Golf
in Ireland and Scotland...The Frontiers Way!
By Kristene Matelan
GOLF IS A POPULAR WEEKEND PASTIME; BUT TO
THE TRUE ENTHUSIASTS OF THIS GREAT GAME, IT
IS A PASSION, A LIFESTYLE AND, TO SOME, AL-
MOST A RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE. MANY GOLFERS
DREAM OF MAKING THE PIL-
GRIMAGE TO IRELAND AND
SCOTLAND TO PLAY EUROPE’S
FINEST LEGENDARY LINKS
COURSES. Scotland is considered
the birthplace of golf and
is steeped in history and tradition
— home to the Royal &
Ancient (R&A), the Old Course
at St. Andrews, and a number of the world’s top
courses. Ireland with its incredible landscapes and
championship links holds golf to the highest of standards.
As you follow in the footsteps of legends such
as Tiger Woods, Jack Nicklaus, Tom Watson and
Bobby Jones, you can play the same courses that
have hosted them in the British Open, the Ryder
Cup, and many other famous tournaments.
We have made over a dozen trips to Ireland and Scotland in the
last ten years researching and playing the top links courses, meeting
with transportation companies and tour operators, looking for
culinary gems and, of course, familiarizing ourselves with the most
up-to-date accommodation options based on every budget.
Frontiers has put together a number of outstanding golf itineraries
in the British Isles. We specialize in small, customized departures
based on your specific objectives. You will play the same mystical
courses that the large golf tour operators offer, but we are uniquely
capable of providing a level of personal service that is unmatched
in the business at no additional cost to you. In addition to great
golf, we also accommodate other interests in the party — whether
it is fly fishing, horseback riding, gardens or general sightseeing.
A quality driver is an important component of your travel experience.
We work with a team of highly experienced and extremely
friendly chauffeurs who act as your personal tour guide. In Ireland,
our good friend Pat Prendergast takes care of all of our groups;
while Little’s Chauffeur Drive under the leadership of Kenneth Good
assists our clients in Scotland. They are extremely knowledgeable
and offer superior service in modern, first-class vehicles ranging
from luxury sedans to spacious, well-appointed, private coaches.
The Magical Southwest of Ireland
Easily accessed from Shannon Airport, this region is steeped in
ancient history and folklore. There are over 100 heritage and cultural
sites of significance, not to mention some of the very best
and most famous links courses in the world including Ballybunion,
Lahinch, Waterville, Tralee and Old Head.
30

Dublin and The North
Dublin has emerged as one of the
most cosmopolitan cities in Europe,
buzzing with energy and excitement
and now claiming some of the
finest cuisine in Europe. This contrasts
nicely with the natural beauty
and wonderful people of Northern
Ireland. Golfers will have the opportunity
to experience classic links
golf at Portmarnock, Baltray, Royal
County Down, Royal Portrush,
Portstewart and Ballyliffin.
Our driver/guide in Ireland,
Pat Prendergast
The Best of Scotland
Scotland offers a world of travel opportunities within one country
— the ideal setting for a holiday combining the objectives of a nongolfing
companion. The capital city of Edinburgh is famous for festivals,
historic architecture, the Military Tattoo and the Royal Mile.
From Edinburgh, you will have convenient access to St. Andrews,
Carnoustie, Kingsbarns, Gullane, North Berwick, Royal Troon,
Muirfield, and a myriad of others.
We invite you to discover the best links golf in the world. In terms
of course quality, accommodation options, friendliness, accessibility
and value, many well-traveled golfing enthusiasts consider the
experience to be a trip-of-a-lifetime. Frontiers’ Kristene Matelan
returned from Scotland in November with fresh perspective. Call
for her proposed itinerary for your family or group. She has considerable
travel expertise in both countries.
With the recent strengthening of the U.S. dollar, golf in Ireland and
Scotland is a terrific value. In addition, there are some tremendous
“specials” available for 2009.
Kristene sipping whiskey with Tom Wellwood, manager of Myres
Kristene’s personal picks
On my recent trips to Ireland and Scotland, I had the opportunity to
visit many special properties that ranged from comfortable B&Bs to
luxurious castles and country estates. Two of my favorites are . . .
Myres Castle is an exclusive-use,
9-bedroom property
in Fife, Scotland.
Myres is the perfect location
for your special occasion,
a family gathering,
golf groups or a couple’s
getaway. For the golfers,
Myres is a perfect place to
base yourself with over
100 golf courses within an hour’s drive of the castle including
some of Scotland’s most famous links; or if you would prefer, just
relax by the fire with a good book and a glass of fine single malt
whiskey. The castle is truly a magical experience. Be sure to ask the
Front of House Manager, Tom, to show you his private whiskey collection.
In Ireland, I particularly
enjoyed Adare Manor, an
840-acre country estate in
County Limerick. Built in
the 18th century, this
majestic property has been
transformed into a premier
luxury resort while at the
same time maintaining the
old-world style and charm
that is uniquely Adare. With a spa and a Robert Trent Jones parkland
golf course, the estate has something for everyone. The location is
ideal in a lovely, quaint Irish village — just 35 minutes from Shannon
International Airport. Some of Ireland’s most famous links courses —
Ballybunion, Lahinch and Tralee — are a short drive away. Don’t miss
the wonderful Irish music and an after-dinner drink in the Tack Room.
“The trip exceeded my
expectations. From the
golf to the food to the
transportation —
everything was
outstanding. I would
recommend to anyone
who plays golf to book a
trip to Ireland/Scotland
through Frontiers!”
Mr. G.O., Sewickley, PA
31

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Wedding procession
near Udaipur
Incredible India
Update
By Mollie Fitzgerald
Pushkar Camel Fair
If you like the idea of stepping back into the 13th century, plan
your trip to India in late October-early November and incorporate
the Pushkar Camel Fair. It is one of the most colorful events in the
Indian festival calendar when the small, normally tranquil lakeside
town of Pushkar plays host to one of India’s most famous religious
festivals and livestock fairs.
From all over Rajasthan, the Rabari tribe, who are traditionally
camel herders, walk for weeks across the desert to this spot to
trade their animals. Here you will witness the colors of Rajasthan —
sartorially vibrant people as they spontaneously break into a song
or a dance. During the day, animals are traded, there are milking
competitions, camel races, puppet shows, a fairground with a ferris
wheel, a craft fair and much more.
The exact date varies from year to year and is tied to the lunar calendar
The festivities are concentrated during a one-week period,
but we recommend that you time your visit to arrive a few days
before the fair (October 30 -November 2, 2009 and November 18-
21, 2010) so you are able to see the authentic activities of this
gathering well before the other tourists arrive. This is also the best
time for photographing people and animals and the time when
you may move around and observe the scene most freely.
For a few days this area of the arid desert is transformed into a
huge tented city. We recommend staying at Peirce and Leslie’s
Private Tented Camp, a stylish and welcoming retreat which will be
at Pushkar from October 25-29, 2009. Each of the twenty tents is
extremely comfortable with en suite bathroom with hot and cold
water, wooden floors and air conditioning. This slips perfectly into
any Rajasthan itinerary and is about two hours’ drive from Jaipur.
32

Nadesar Palace — Varanasi
The holy city of Varanasi (or Benares as it is also known) is the
spiritual capital of the Hindu world and, in our mind, an essential
place to start any trip to India. Situated on the banks of the
Ganges, Varanasi is visited by pilgrims who come to bathe in the
sacred waters, a ritual believed to wash away all sins. To date
there has been a dearth of luxury accommodation, now rectified
by the opening of Nadesar Palace, located in the heart of this
bustling city among mango orchards, marigold and jasmine fields
and offering an opulent serene retreat from the chaos and crowds
of the city. This boutique hideaway is quite simply the most luxurious
place to stay in Varanasi.
Built by the East India Company to house officers stationed in the
ancient city of Benares (now Varanasi), Nadesar Palace was
bought by Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh in the 19th century to
offer sumptuous accommodation to visiting dignitaries. It has now
been carefully restored by the Taj Group to offer 10 spacious
rooms and suites with large windows overlooking the gardens and
spacious white marbled bathrooms. A full spa with ayurvedic treatments
and yoga complements the accommodation. Nadesar
Palace is all about relaxing and rejuvenating, allowing you to stay a
little longer in this magical city.
Mumbai Update
The tragic events of November 2008 have left an indelible
stain of terrorism on the vibrant Indian port city of Mumbai.
The heartbreaking loss of life and damage to some of its
most significant landmarks took a terrible toll on the city and
its people, yet they refused to be intimidated. It was a true
testament to the courage and resilience of the citizens of
Mumbai when the Taj Palace Hotel Tower Wing and the
Oberoi Trident Hotel reopened their doors to guests on
December 21, 2008. The historic Heritage Wing of the Taj
Palace Hotel sustained major damage but reconstruction has
already begun and the hotel’s owners are committed to
restoring this magnificent property to its former glory.
Although it is not well known as a tourism destination,
Mumbai has much to offer leisure travelers. The city is similar
in many ways to New York City. Located on a group of
islands on the coast of the Arabian Sea, Mumbai is India’s
largest and most populated city, the country’s financial powerhouse,
and home to the thriving Bollywood entertainment
industry. The city is India’s most ethnically and spiritually
diverse as residents have come from all over the country and
other areas of Asia seeking fortune, fame, or simply a better
quality of life.
Visitors to Mumbai have a wide selection of luxury accommodations
and upscale restaurants available to them, along
with a variety of historic and cultural attractions. Oberoi, Taj
Hotels, and Four Seasons all offer 5-star properties in
Mumbai, and other international hotel chains, such as JW
Marriott, Intercontinental, Hyatt and Kempinski, offer excellent
options for those with more moderate budgets. Mumbai
is a paradise for foodies and the current dining scene provides
something for every taste, with choices ranging from
traditional Indian dishes from every corner of the sub-continent
to the outstanding seafood for which this coastal city is
famous. Practically every type of international cuisine can
also be found in the city’s restaurants with Thai, Chinese,
Middle Eastern, and Italian some of the more exceptional
offerings. Visits to the many interesting attractions in Mumbai
could easily fill several days. The city is home to two mustsee
UNESCO World Heritage sites, the Elephanta Caves and
the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus Railway Station, along with
a number of other sites of historic, cultural, or religious significance.
These include the Gateway of India, Rajabai Clock
Tower, Haji Ali Mosque, Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue,
Mumba Devi and Mahalaxmi Temples, Prince of Wales
Museum, Jehangir Art Gallery, Mahatma Jyotiba Phule
(Crawford) Market, and Chowpatty Beach.
Most major air carriers offer flight service to Mumbai’s
Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport. Onward connections
on India’s domestic airlines are available to almost any destination
within the country, making Mumbai an ideal starting
or ending point for any journey to Incredible India.
Joyce Larkin
33

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Mool Sagar — Jaisalmer
When life at the palace began to pale, the royal rulers of Rajasthan
retreated, either to luxurious summer palaces and pleasure gardens
or to rugged camps in the desert. Mool Sagar combines the
best of both worlds and provides an oasis in the golden desert
sands just six miles from the legendary fort of Jaisalmer, bringing a
new standard of accommodation to this outpost city.
The Aman New Delhi
Great news for “Aman-junkies” — March 2009 will mark the opening
of the Aman New Delhi. With just 60 rooms and suites, this is
Delhi’s first boutique hotel and Aman’s third property in India. It is
located in the center of India’s vibrant capital city and will
undoubtedly provide an outstanding urban sanctuary. The hotel
has a contemporary style but features many local materials and
handicrafts. Most rooms have either a plunge pool or full-size private
pool. We can’t wait to check it out!
Created by Maharawal Mool Raj II in 1780, Mool Sagar is a true
royal pleasure garden. Its delicate stone pavilions and fountains
provide an exquisite setting for the luxurious Royal Jodhpur Tents.
Eighteen spacious tents, handmade by traditional artisans, recreate
the early 20th century camps of the Jodhpur Maharajas, but with
21st century amenities. Each tent has an en suite bathroom, private
verandah, and is air-cooled or heated depending on how the
desert winds blow. Meals are served in one of the carved pavilions
or at a spectacular historic step well in the desert.
The Golden City of Jaisalmer, on the edge of the barren Thar
Desert, has for many years been accessed only by road — a 4-hour
drive from the nearest airport of Jodhpur. Known for its intricately
carved havelis and for its colorful people and fabulous tribalinspired
jewelry, this is a great stop, well off the beaten tourist
path. With the reopening of Jaisalmer Airport, the city is now easily
accessible by domestic flights from the royal cities of Rajasthan
(Jodhpur, Udaipur and Jaipur) and connections to the international
gateways of Mumbai and Delhi.
Pool Room
Frontiers has operated in India for many years and our team of
experts have over a dozen trips under our belts in the past five
years. We will work with you and our partners in India to create an
extraordinary Indian adventure. We can arrange almost anything for
you, from cultural sightseeing, wildlife and jungle safaris,
Himalayan walks and treks, culinary and wine focus trips, ladies’
shopping trips, and beach holidays to ayurveda, yoga and meditation
retreats. Anything is possible and all in the company of some
of the top escort guides we’ve encountered anywhere.
Slumdog Millionaire . . . reflections from a veteran traveler to India
I remain spellbound by this year’s British film sensation, Slumdog Millionaire, the unlikely tale of an orphan from the slums of Mumbai
who ends up as a contestant on the TV show “Who Wants to be a Millionaire.” It has attracted much critical acclaim, has swept the
awards season, and has put one of my favorite destinations under the spotlight.
The movie, like India itself, is an assault on one’s senses — you experience it completely: the sounds, smells, sights, tastes and feel. It
captures brilliantly the many paradoxes of India: sometimes chaos and sometimes sublime ecstasy, spiritual yet profane, pageantry
alongside poverty. You have to delve beneath the film’s edgy veneer of mafia lords, child abuse, riots, and petty thievery to be rewarded
with a more genuine reflection of India and its people. My take-away is the rich tapestry of color, the sense of community and family, the
ingenuity and resourcefulness, enthusiasm and resilience, their indomitable spirit, and the most inviting smiles in the world.
I felt the same way after this movie as I did upon completing Gregory David Roberts’ remarkable novel Shantaram, also set in
Mumbai’s slums — I just wanted to get on a plane and go!
Mollie Fitzgerald
34

Kate and Dan exchange
vows at Little Dix Bay
Happily
Ever After
In 2007, a Frontiers client wanted to visit the Amalfi
Coast on an active-vacation basis. Kate enjoyed
traveling with like-minded people, so we recommended
the Butterfield & Robinson Amalfi Walking
Tour. To see the stunning views of Positano, Capri
and Ravello at a slower pace; to immerse herself in
the culture and meet the local people; and to stay in
some of Italy’s most acclaimed hotels was exactly
what she had in mind. WHAT SHE DIDN’T ANTICI-
PATE WAS MEETING HER FUTURE HUSBAND! Dan
and Kate met as single travelers and found that they
had much more in common than walking and a
love of Italy.
After booking another Italy walking tour with B&R for the fall (this
time for two!), Kate called a month later with a new request. They
were contemplating a destination wedding somewhere in the
Caribbean for late August and needed some ideas. Their preference
was a smaller resort where every wedding detail would be
taken care of, but it had to be easy to get to and, most importantly,
it had to feature a fantastic beach!
Without knowing the exact number of guests, Rosewood Little Dix
Bay on Virgin Gorda seemed to be the perfect location. After just
finishing a 25-million-dollar renovation, the resort is intimate
(under 125 rooms), but with all of the amenities of a larger resort.
And with a short flight from San Juan to Tortola, it was easily
accessible for a weekend getaway.
Little Dix Bay (and all
of the Rosewood
properties in the
Caribbean and
Mexico) has a dedicated
wedding coordinator
who can
arrange everything
and anything according to your wishes. As the British Virgin Islands
requires the bride and groom to apply in person for a marriage
license three business days prior to the wedding, this allowed
plenty of time to put the final touches on the plans once they
arrived at the resort.
Most of the guests arrived on Thursday in time for a cocktail party
hosted by the bride and groom. Friday evening, after a day of
enjoying the beautiful waters of the Caribbean and the resort’s
facilities, the guests gathered for a beach barbecue under the tropical
night sky. Saturday was a day for swimming and snorkeling,
tennis and, for some, relaxing at the spa. Set up overlooking the
harbor, the wedding ceremony was just before sunset, followed by
dinner and a night of dancing. After three days, the guests went
their separate ways, but with many memories of a weekend filled
with love and friendship.
By the way, Kate and Dan left a few weeks after the wedding on
their honeymoon, a Butterfield & Robinson walking tour of the
Dolomites topped off by a few nights at one of our favorite hotels,
the Splendido in Portofino.
If you are planning a destination wedding or any other family gathering
— large or small, please contact Frontiers Elegant Journeys.
Cindy Smith
35

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Old Muscat
Oman
On the Rise
”Of all the trips Frontiers has arranged for
us, our recent trip to Oman, Qatar, and
Dubai was one of the most interesting,
beautiful and educational trips we have
ever taken!!” S.W., Maryland
Jibreen Castle
THE SULTANATE OF OMAN CAPTURED MY IMAGINATION LIKE
NO OTHER DESTINATION HAS RECENTLY. I DEVOURED
WILFRED THESIGER’S ARABIAN SANDS, WHICH CHRONICLED
HIS OFTEN ARDUOUS JOURNEYS THROUGH THE “EMPTY
QUARTER,” AND LONGED TO VISIT. With just under two weeks’
notice, an opportunity presented itself last May to accompany my
UK-based colleague Lara MacDonald. I leapt at it! Oman has
over 600 miles of coastline (including some lovely unspoiled
beaches that border the Arabian Sea, the Gulf of Oman, and the
Arabian Gulf); towering mountains; dry riverbeds called wadis;
deserts galore; palm-strewn oases; over 1,000 historic forts, castles
and watchtowers; and a rich cultural heritage. At its zenith,
the great Omani seafaring empire controlled all trade routes to
Africa and India, with Zanzibar just one of its frontier outposts.
Considering that in 1955 this country was still a medieval Islamic state shuttered
against all 20th century progress under the aegis of its traditionalist and autocratic
ruler, it’s hard to believe it is only a few hours’ drive from the bustling epitome of
urban chic — Dubai. While Oman has changed a lot since the ’50s with the introduction
of city-planning, an excellent network of paved roads, and the advent of 5-
star resort hotels, much of it remained unchanged. This is an ideal destination for
those looking for a more authentic Arabian experience.
Our journey began in the northern Musandam Peninsula, a tiny piece of Oman that
is cut off from the rest of the country and surrounded by the UAE and the sea. Often
likened to the Norwegian fjords because of its steep, razor-sharp cliffs that jut down
to the sea, this desolate but spectacular region is an easy 2.5-hour drive from Dubai
or 4 hours to Muscat, the capital city of Oman. Private helicopter transfers from
Dubai are also available — just 30 minutes’ flight time. Our destination was the Six
Senses Hideaway at Zighy Bay opened in January 2008. Set between dramatic
mountains to the rear and a mile-wide sandy beach in front, guests choose from
one of three unforgettable arrival experiences: a scenic 15-minute speedboat trip, a
38

eathtaking drive down through the mountains, or as a companion
passenger with Itzu, Zighy Bay’s professional paraglider. (I opted for
#2 in order to photograph Lara’s daring preference for #3!)
Each of the 82 stone and wood villas has a rustic chic feel. Our
favorites were the Beachfront Pool Villa Suites with two full bathrooms
opening directly onto the beach. For the epitome of privacy
and understated luxury, look no further than the 32,000-squarefoot
Private Reserve with its fabulous amenities.
There is a large central swimming pool, fully equipped gym and a
world-renowned Six Senses Spa with a fabulous Turkish hamas.
Activities are numerous, ranging from non-motorized water sports
and deep-sea fishing to yoga classes, wine tastings and Arabic
cooking classes. A variety of dining venues include a modern
brasserie, a restaurant on top of the mountains overlooking Zighy
Bay called Dining on the Edge, beach barbecues and dinners in the
wine cellar. Their funky Chill Bar features dozens of homemade flavored
vodkas for your sipping pleasure. If you want to get away
from it all and recharge your batteries, set your watches to “Zighy
Time” — you won’t be disappointed.
Cradled between the mountains and its own private beach, The
Chedi in Muscat is a contemporary and stylish hotel, ideal for relaxing
long weekends and only 10 minutes’ drive from the airport. A
most inviting retreat for adults, each of the 151 air-conditioned
rooms is elegant with simple, stylish furnishings and overlook
either the lush gardens or the Gulf of Oman. There are two swimming
pools including a 138-foot infinity pool on the beachfront
that is temperature controlled (chilled when I was there!) as well
as a fully equipped gym, two floodlit tennis courts, a great boutique,
and an extensive spa specializing in Balinese therapies.
After dark, the mood is low-key and sophisticated with evocative
lighting. Our evening began with pre-dinner cocktails and canapés
in the exclusive retreat of The Library (a private lounge for Deluxe
Club and Chedi Club Suites only) before dining in The Restaurant,
where we observed the spectacle of dinner being prepared in the
Main Pool at Zighy Bay
four open display kitchens serving contemporary and exciting
Arabic, Mediterranean, Asian and Indian cuisine. Our food was outstanding,
and this is rightly considered one of Muscat’s top tables.
It’s only a 20-minute drive south into Old Muscat, steeped in history
and dominated by two 16th century forts. The gated walls
form an enclosure around the port, His Majesty the Sultan’s Palace,
and the harbor. Bait Al Zubair Musuem, near the harbor, is well
worth a visit and provides an introduction to Omani history, customs,
arts and craftwork. Great shopping opportunities can be had
in the historic Muttrah Souq (market), an atmospheric maze of
alleyways with lots of tiny stalls selling antique silver jewelry, khanjars
(traditional curved daggers), coffee pots, incense burners, fragrant
frankincense, dates and other local delights. The Sultan
Qaboos Grand Mosque is also worth a visit; it is a religious landmark
and testimony to contemporary Islamic architecture (non-
Muslims are welcome to visit, but ladies must cover their head,
ankles and wrists).
Leaving the white buildings and glistening turquoise waters of
Muscat, we journeyed inland in an air-conditioned 4x4 to the
rugged and imposing world of the Jebel Akhdar mountain range.
(Continued on next page)
Lara arriving at Zighy Bay
39

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Nizwa Cattle
Market
Within 10 minutes, one is in a totally different landscape, void of
vegetation and civilization — if you listen closely, you can almost
hear T.E. Lawrence whispering in your ear. Date palms grow like
weeds whenever precious water is present (in this part of the
world, a liter of water is more expensive than a liter of gasoline).
Turreted watchtowers marked old trade routes as we traveled from
one oasis to another. The paved roads are in excellent condition,
but you always have the option of going off road, driving up a
dried-up riverbed or dirt trail through the mountains with switchbacks
and hairpin turns. No wonder Audi brings out a fleet of cars
each year to test drive for endurance!
Traditional
Omani man
with
Khanjar
We highly recommend spending a night or two in Nizwa to
explore this fascinating area. The highlight for me was an early
morning visit to the cattle market, where traditionally attired men
in long white dishdashas
and women
hidden behind black
veils and, in some
cases, beak-like face
masks gather in the
main square to parade
their livestock for sale
to the highest bidder.
This occurs on Friday
mornings only and the
whole event is over by
9 a.m. In nearby Bahla,
visit Jibreen Castle built
in 1670; the “beehive
tombs” and cave
dwellings thought to be over 3,000 years old; and Jebel Shams,
the highest mountain in Oman at 10,006 feet. You won’t want to
miss the “Grand Canyon of the Middle East” with its spectacular
observation platform.
For those with a penchant for adventure, we can arrange many
exciting activities including private encampments in the desert,
camel safaris, trekking, wadi bashing and dune driving, rock climbing,
turtle watching, scuba diving and much, more.
The best time to visit Oman is from September until April after
which the temperatures and humidity rise sharply. Interestingly, if
you are only visiting the Musandam Peninsula and entering from
Dubai, you do not need a visa for entry to Oman, but if you continue
on to Muscat, you will need to obtain a visa at the border (or at
Muscat Airport on arrival). It’s about $25 and they take visa or cash.
British Airways, Swiss and Lufthansa offer direct air service to
Muscat, but with Oman being so different to Dubai, the two make
an ideal combination trip. We inspected other beach resorts
including Shangri-La Barr al Jissah Resort (Al Waha, Al Bandar ad Al
Husn) and the Grand Hyatt. Each has facilities that compare favorably
with the leading hotels in Dubai but with a price tag that is
more attractive.
Mollie and Lara try the shisha
40

One of Muscat’s top news items is the reopening of the legendary Al Bustan
Palace Hotel in November 2009. We did a hard-hat inspection tour in May and
could see the ambitious vision for the rebuild. Situated on 200 acres of beach
fronting the Gulf of Oman, this iconic property, owned by the Omani government,
has emerged from its multimillion dollar facelift and will be managed
under the Intercontinental flag. The 200 rooms and 50 suites reflect both local
traditions and art deco influences, exuding the richness of Arabian culture, art
and history. Nowhere is this better evidenced than the 125-foot domed lobby
with intricate crystal chandelier. Extensive work has also been done on the
grounds; there’s an all new pool area and a palatial spa will open in 2010.
There is no doubt that this is the address in Muscat!
Mollie Fitzgerald
The Museum of Islamic Art – Doha, Qatar
Located just 15 minutes from Doha
International Airport, the Museum of Islamic
Art is a “must see” when stopping in the
Gulf States. From across Doha Bay, the
museum looks as though it has simply risen
up out of the sea. In truth, however, it sits
boldly upon its very own man-made island
built solely for the purpose of preventing
further development to detract from its
design. As if that weren’t enough to cause
you to think you are about to see something
special, perhaps the fact that you
approach the museum flanked by a long
stretch of at least 100 sentinel-like palm
trees and 18 tall windowless archways
might do the trick. Of course, you could
always arrive by boat and be greeted at the
western dock by two 100-foot-tall lanterns.
The artist of this 376,740-square-foot
museum is none other than Pritzker Prizewinning
architect I.M. Pei, the Chinese-born
American architect known as the last master
of high modernist architecture. With
sharp edges and straight lines, Pei has
managed to make the most of natural light,
for as the sun rises and sets, shadows
slowly stretch and recede across the many
tiered surfaces, making the building seem
to come alive.
Although the exterior of the museum is considered
to be one of the most distinguished
modern buildings in the entire Middle East,
the interior is no less inspiring. From the
grand “upside-down” staircase upon entering
to the 164-foot-high atrium with a glass curtain
wall offering panoramic views of the
gulf, you will find yourself looking up, down,
out and around in architectural awe.
The galleries are designed by France’s Jean-
Michel Wilmotte and feature dark-grey
stone and Brazilian wood treated to appear
metallic. This is quite striking alongside the
light-colored limestone and granite of the
museum’s interior walls.
With all the beauty and talent that is portrayed
on its skin and skeleton, the heart of
the museum beats on two levels encircling
the atrium. Housing several thousand manuscripts,
textiles, ceramics and other works
from the 7th to the 19th centuries, these
exhibits of Figure, Calligraphy, Pattern and
Science have already been touted as one of
the most encyclopedic collections of Islamic
art . . . anywhere. With origins of these artifacts
ranging from Spain to Egypt, Iran, Iraq,
Turkey, India and Central Asia, the
museum’s purpose is to share the diversity
of the Islamic arts with the world. And with
over 30,000 visitors within just the first two
weeks of its grand opening, they are well
on their way to doing just that.
There is no charge for general admission;
however, there is a cost for the temporary
exhibits. Family and adult tours are available
during certain days of the week. If you
would like to experience a private tour,
Frontiers can make the arrangements on
your behalf. Please contact us if you would
like to know more about the Museum of
Islamic Art in Doha, Qatar.
41

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Abu Simbel
The Dazzling Jewels of
Egypt and Jordan
Cruising the Nile on the Sun Boat IV
Giza Plateau
and the Sphinx
EVER SINCE MY FIRST TRIP TO EGYPT TWENTY-FIVE
YEARS AGO, I ALWAYS HAD A SINCERE WISH TO
RETURN. I vividly remember the thrill of exploring the
Giza Pyramids and viewing the Sphinx — the only survivors
of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World; the
mystique of stepping into pharaohs’ tombs in the
Valley of Kings and Queens; and the exaltation of visiting
the Church of St. Sergius in Coptic Cairo, where
the Holy Family is believed to have taken shelter
when fleeing Palestine.
I returned in May 2008 and although bustling Cairo has expanded
considerably and is still in the lead as one of the most densely populated
cities in the world, it has retained its oriental appeal evocative of
scenes from 1001 Nights. Despite heavier traffic, I found Cairo just as
friendly and easy going as in the past.
Over the years, Cairo has also developed an infrastructure of worldclass
hotels including two top-notch Four Seasons Hotels, where I
stayed at the beginning and end of my trip. The Four Seasons First
Residence is an intimate, sophisticated hotel with a distinctive
European ambiance of a private palatial-type mansion. Located at the
widest and most scenic part of the Nile, the Four Seasons Nile Plaza is
another impeccable luxury hotel with some of the best views in Cairo.
I also inspected half a dozen other Cairo hotels and particularly liked
the historic Oberoi Mena House located outside the city and nearly at
hand’s reach of the Giza Pyramids. I highly recommend lunch or a pri-
42

Jerash
vate party there in the Palace section of the hotel with the full
view of the pyramids.
I fulfilled my old dream of visiting Abu Simbel and taking a Nile
cruise. Only a 35-minute flight from Aswan and usually done as a
day trip, Abu Simbel is famous for two of the most breathtaking,
best-preserved and enormous temples in Egypt. It is awe-inspiring
to enter the Great Temple of RA-Harakhre carved out of a solid
rock in the 13th century BC and flanked by four colossal statues of
enthroned Ramses II, more than 60-feet high.
The Nile cruise from Aswan to Luxor aboard Abercrombie & Kent’s
Sun Boat IV, a luxurious 80-guest vessel, was one of the trip highlights.
A cruise offers a relaxing and most efficient way of seeing
some wonderful temples along the Nile in Kom Ombo and Edfu
while enjoying a comfortable, modern, “floating hotel” base for
three nights. An Egyptian Night Party and whirling dervish performance
were a lot of fun. Everyone had a good time modeling galabeas
and practicing belly dancing — an excellent aerobic workout.
The chef did an outstanding job. I particularly enjoyed his delicious
desserts, especially the pistachio tarts.
The best choices for a 7-night Nile cruise are, in my opinion, the
Sun Boat III, an elegant 36-guest boutique-style yacht and the 52-
guest Oberoi Zahra, the most recent addition to the fleet of luxury
yacht-style cruisers. I inspected both during my recent trip.
From Cairo I flew to Amman, capital of Jordan, a surprisingly modern
and cosmopolitan city. Internationally, Jordan enjoys a reputation as
the most stable and safe country in the Middle East, and rightfully
so. I felt very comfortable there and found Jordanians to be hospitable,
open-minded and easy going. Many are well educated and
speak English. Begging and high pressure selling techniques, so typical
in many Middle East countries, are nearly nonexistent.
Culturally, I found Jordan to be a remarkable destination with literally
thousands of ancient Greek, Roman, Muslim, Christian and
Crusader ruins and archaeological sites. Jordan is also rich in
Biblical history and sites, including the baptism site of Jesus on the
banks of the River Jordan; Mount Nebo, from where Moses saw
the Promised Land and where he died; and the tomb of Aaron in
Petra, to name only a few.
I took a day trip to Jerash, 30 miles north of Amman. It is one of
the most extensive, dramatic and best-preserved Roman provincial
cities in the world and one of the oldest in the Middle East with a
more than 6,500-year history.
Nothing prepares you for the grandeur of the Wadi Rum desert.
Also known as the “Valley of the Moon,” it is a UNESCO World
Heritage site because of its incredible biodiversity and outstanding
beauty. I have been to the desert in Arizona, the Sahara, the Kara
Kum and the Kyzyl Kum deserts of Central Asia — they all have
their own appeal, but Wadi Rum is one of the most striking natural
phenomena I have ever seen.
The site of David Lean’s film Lawrence of Arabia, Wadi Rum is full
of mystical multicolored granite, basalt and sandstone rock formations.
They are pierced by corridors of red sand, split by canyons
and ravines, and spanned by naturally formed rock bridges to create
a nearly surrealistic atmosphere. I took a 4x4 jeep excursion
and had an opportunity to enjoy not only its tranquility but also a
gorgeous sunset. We visited a Bedouin camp and were treated to
delicious herbal tea. For those with a sense of adventure, it’s possible
to spend a night in the desert.
My trip continued to Petra, a truly amazing and breathtaking place
worthy of its ranking as one of the new Seven Wonders of the
World, also a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Siq, a narrow path
that twists and turns between sky-high sandstone cliffs dotted by
small votive niches and shrines, is one of Petra’s most awe-inspiring
natural features. Petra showcases the amazingly well-preserved
Treasury carved deep into the rock and dating from the 1st century
BC. There are a myriad of other unique sites, temples, tombs and
Nabatean dwellings warranting a full day of sightseeing and a second
visit on a Petra by Night tour, a fascinating candlelit excursion
through the Siq. Jordan is also famous for its wonderful Dead Sea
resorts and some of the world’s best diving and snorkeling in the
Red Sea off Aqaba.
With our firsthand destination knowledge and longstanding connections,
Frontiers will take you on a very special trip to this
ancient part of the world.
Natasha Tichy
Natasha Tichy with
guard at Petra The Treasury at Petra Wadi Rum
43

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Beyond
Beijing
A Return to China
ON THIS TRIP, I WENT BEYOND THE USUAL
ASPECTS OF A “CHINA 101” CIRCUIT TO THE
YUNNAN PROVINCE. MY JOURNEY BEGAN IN
BEIJING AND IT WAS FUN TO SEE THE CITY IN
SPIT-AND-POLISH READINESS FOR THE
OLYMPIC GAMES. I flew via Chengdu, home of the
Panda Breeding Research Center where they offer
“panda hugging” — you actually hold and cuddle
a young panda. Here you see rural China with
lovely parks and tea houses and feel you are experiencing
life as the Chinese do, at least those that
do not live in the big cities. Chengdu also has an
“English” corner where Chinese gather to perfect
their English skills by conversing with travelers. A
great evening’s entertainment is visiting a tea
house to see a special performance called a “facechanging”
show as the actors change their face
masks and costumes instantly on stage.
I continued to Lijiang, my favorite place, and my favorite hotel in
all of China, Banyan Tree Lijiang. It is an absolutely lovely hotel in a
stunning setting and the villa accommodations are warm, inviting
and romantic with a walled courtyard that includes either a private
Jacuzzi or pool. Lijiang is inhabited mostly by the Naxi, one China’s
55 ethnic minority groups. This is the best preserved ancient town
in China and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997.
The Old Town is a great place to wander through the hutongs and
market, but make sure you have a guide because you can easily
get lost. Outside of town, the natural beauty of Jade Dragon Snow
Mountain provides an amazing backdrop to the Black Dragon
Pond, all within a beautiful park where you can roam and enjoy.
An all-day drive along the Yangtze took me to Ringha, still in the
Yunnan Province but called the Autonomous Region of Tibet. Tiger
Leaping Gorge is a worthwhile stop to stretch your legs as you
descend hundreds of steps amidst breathtaking scenery to the
Golden Sands River, which is very narrow and wild at this point —
an awesome sight! Just remember you have to ascend those steps
or, if too tired, there are sedan chairs and, for a small fee, someone
will carry you up. For those seeking a bit more adventure, you
can spend time hiking at the gorge.
My destination in Ringha was another wonderful Banyan Tree Hotel.
This special property consists of traditional Tibetan farmhouses with
intricate woodcarvings, fireplaces and wooden balconies that have
valley or river views. You are met with a steaming cup of ginger tea
to help combat the effects of elevation (11,480 feet), and feel as
though you are above the clouds at the top of the world. I especially
enjoyed my morning cup of tea sitting on my balcony watching the
day break as the mist and clouds rolled in and out.
Ringha has been designated as the true Shangri La by the Chinese
government but technically it is part of Tibet. Don’t miss
Songzanlin Monastery — one of the wealthiest in China. As you
climb the stairs (very slowly) to the top, there is the most incredible
view of Ringha. The land is dotted with stupas and prayer flags
wave in the breeze.
I wandered into the local village at the base of the monastery.
What a contrast between the stark simplicity of the village and the
44

Tiger Leaping Gorge
ornate, gold-leaf monastery. My guide took me to another more humble
monastery, where I climbed prayer wheel-lined steps and, when I reached
the top, again saw prayer flags in all directions.
This is the best way to experience life in China outside the major cities,
where commerce and tourism have truly tempered the culture. If you have
never visited China, adding some time in Yunnan Province will give you
such a greater insight into Chinese culture. If you have been there before,
the Yunnan Province merits a return trip.
Meredith McNaugher
45

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Tantalizing
Thailand
WITH THE GROWING INTEREST IN INDOCHINA
(VIETNAM, LAOS AND CAMBODIA), I OFTEN
FIND THAT BIG BROTHER, AND GATEWAY TO THE
REGION, THAILAND, GETS OVERLOOKED. It’s
easy to forget the numerous charms and diversity
of Thailand itself for a stand-alone holiday — perfect
for your first foray into the region or for a
return. Southeast Asia has always captured my
imagination and each time I visit, new layers of
enchantment are revealed, reconfirming my love
for this part of the world.
My love affair with Southeast Asia, and Thailand in particular,
began with watching Deborah Kerr as Anna teach Yul Brenner,
the King, to waltz in “The King and I.” Although today’s cosmopolitan
and bustling country, home to over 60 million people,
bears little resemblance to the provincial court of the Kingdom of
Siam, the seed was planted and my very first steps on Asian soil
were in Thailand 13 years ago. Since then, I’ve looked for any and
all excuses to get back and have been fortunate in doing so —
July 2008 was my sixth trip to Southeast Asia and this was a holiday,
thanks to my friend Dennis Tan, Managing Director of A&K
Thailand, focused on rediscovering Thailand. We were a small
team of mothers and daughters and had a trip that far surpassed
my (sky-high) expectations.
We began in the Far North in the semi-mythical region known as
the Golden Triangle — the meeting point of Thailand, Myanmar
and Laos, an area historically associated with opium production.
The opium trade has been officially outlawed and the area now
attracts visitors for its picturesque, undeveloped natural scenery
and its unspoiled hill tribes. It’s an area best explored on foot or,
for traditionalists, on the back of an elephant. Just an hour’s drive
from Chiang Rai lies the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden
Triangle, one of the most uniquely exceptional new properties
I’ve found recently. A short boat journey through winding channels
flanked by densely forested mountains adds to one’s sense
of anticipation as you arrive. The camp is nestled into a hillside
commanding majestic views of the Thai jungle, Myanmar across
the Ruak River, and the mountains of Laos to the northeast. We
were greeted by Michel Volk, the affable general manager, and
his lovely wife. Michel heralds from the Four Seasons in Provence
— the antithesis of this little jungle gem!
I vanquished my fear of suspension bridges early on with the
walk to my tent which was called “Poppy” — an adventure in
itself on an orchid-lined path through the jungle. Guests are
accommodated in just 15 freestanding over-the-top tents with
handcrafted furnishings reminiscent of 19th century adventure
expeditions. Fully air conditioned or open-air according to your
preference, the en suite bathroom features a huge copper soak-
48

"Thank you so much for arranging the
best trip ever in 30 hours. Everything
worked perfectly, including our
elephants. The Four Season Tented
Camp one of the most special places in
the world - you were so right in urging
us to go. Please extend our thanks to
your staff who helped in the herculean
effort it must have taken to arrange all
this at last minute." S.C., New York
ing tub, double sinks and an outdoor “rain” shower. Each tent has
a private balcony with stunning views, and one often sees elephants
grazing in the distance.
There are a myriad of activities one can enjoy from the camp —
Mekong River excursions, jungle trekking and nature walks, birding,
cooking lessons, traditional craft classes, a visit to the nearby Opium
Museum (which is excellent), a day trip to Myanmar, a treatment in
their open-air spa, relaxing by the small pool, or sipping a sundowner
at the Burma Bar. But the real drawing card here is the
opportunity to interact with the camp’s adopted family of elephants.
It started at breakfast with delivery of a few bushels of bananas in
the open-air dining room as we finished our first coffee; the baby
ellies were led in and all of us were encouraged to feed them.
Asian elephants have played an important cultural and economic
role for centuries, and they still roam wild in the Thai forests.
Valued for their strength and dexterous trunks, elephants were
once the main workforce in the teak forests of Northern Thailand,
transporting timber. With the 1989 logging ban, these elephants
were “out of work” and consequently became a burden to their
owners, who no longer had the income to support their expensive
charges. We’ve all ridden elephants as a one-off experience in
Africa and India but this was entirely different — a genuine mahout
training and learning about this enormous animal.
were nuts . . . but somehow on site, you develop an unexpected
confidence and comfort zone — one on one with your elephant,
which is part of the joy of the whole experience. Once you feel
ready, you go out on various elephant-back jungle treks.
This is a magical place for a couple or a family, and in fact, they
recently relaxed their age limit so now children age 12 and up are
welcome. It’s an all-inclusive rate, including all meals, mahout
training and elephant trekking, one spa treatment and round-trip
airport transfers. Put this on your bucket list for sure!
From the highlands, we headed south to the beach. Phuket is
Thailand’s largest island and one of the most popular holiday destinations
in all of Asia, attracting more than one million visitors each
year. Although there are some lovely properties on Phuket itself, if
one million people sounds a little stifling, you’ll find the 45-minute
high-speed boat transfer to Koh Yao Noi well worth the extra logistics.
The azure waters for which this area is so famous surround this
(Continued on next page)
We were given denim mahout outfits to wear and Thai vocabulary
cards with common commands. The elephant’s own mahout
teaches you how to bathe the animal, the basics of driving it, and
a variety of inventive ways to mount and dismount. If anyone had
told me before I went there that I’d be catapulting over the elephant’s
forehead (on and off!) or that I’d be riding the elephant
barefoot (which sounded so terrifying) I would have sworn they
49

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private 24-acre island and provide an idyllic natural “Robinson
Crusoe-esque” setting for the Six Senses Hideaway Yao Noi. Each of
the 54 pool villas are generously proportioned with infinity edge
pool and sala, satellite TV, DVD player, Bose sound system, wine
fridge and an iPod docking station. The bedroom is air conditioned
or open-air, as you please and the bathroom is all open-air. The
amazing attention to detail co-existing with a commitment to environmental
awareness are hallmarks of the Six Senses brand and
reflect the personal philosophy of owners Sonu and Eva Shivadasani.
The resort is set into the hillside so most of the villas overlook the
sea with an almost surreal view of the Phang Nga Bay, reminding
me of Vietnam’s Halong Bay with its limestone rock formations
known as karst dotting the horizon. Unlike Halong, though, you have
this bay all to yourself. Dining options abound (unique, especially for
a small, intimate property) and for me, it’s all about my next meal!
Their repertoire features every imaginable Thai specialty, a tandoori
and wood-burning pizza oven, fresh sushi and a well-stocked wine
cellar, creating a world cuisine certain to please all palates.
Our trip ended with a much-anticipated three nights in Bangkok,
one of my favorite cities in the world. Of course, we did the prerequisite
sightseeing with the glorious Royal Palace, the floating
market, the weekend market, and a private rice barge cruise on the
Chao Praya River. In spite of numerous visits to Bangkok before, it
was my first time to tour Jim Thompson’s house, built in the traditional
Thai style and filled with antique treasures and art he collected
(also highly recommend visiting the Jim Thompson outlet
store for great buys) — very worthwhile. I always seem to run out
of time in Bangkok!
The highlight of this visit, though, was the opportunity to partake
in a cooking lesson at the Oriental Hotel’s famous Thai cooking
school, a dream I’d harbored for some time. The classes are taught
each morning (except Sundays) and menus change daily. They
have an outstanding facility with a full-mirrored demonstration
kitchen and students get “hands-on” training. The delightful chef
speaks beautiful English, has a keen sense of humor, and clearly
loves what he is doing. Ingredients are explained and how to
source them, especially the unusual ones. Chef demonstrates elements
of a recipe — grounding pastes, chopping vegetables, stir
frying, stewing and imparting excellent knowledge about the background
of Thai cuisine. At the end, students enjoy the meal they
have created over lunch. My daughter and I both enjoyed ourselves
immensely. Our menu consisted of Fried Rice with Prawns,
Crab Cakes in Shells, Green Curry of Chicken & Coconut Palm Top,
and Steamed Banana Pudding.
For us, the water was simply irresistible and we tried every imaginable
water sport, from snorkeling to windsurfing to water skiing.
We chartered a speedboat for an all-day excursion and this was a
real highlight with a picnic hamper enjoyed on the beach of a
secluded cove. We loved meeting the other guests and organized a
beach volleyball tournament, which was great fun. This resort is
ideal for families, honeymooners or groups of friends — absolutely
5-star in every sense.
Cost is about $120 per class, and special packages
are available for multiple classes. Price
includes recipes, apron and diploma. Just
another great reason to make the iconic
Oriental Hotel your home-away-from-home in
Bangkok (and be sure to check out their fabulous
newly renovated Deluxe State rooms —
my favorite category. These are corner rooms
with hardwood floors, fabulous views and
brand-new gorgeous bathrooms).
It’s hard not to fall in love with Thailand — their distinctive fiery cuisine
is savored around the world and their hospitality and service
ethic is renowned; so it’s no wonder that the very first Aman resort
was built in Thailand, and Bangkok’s legendary Oriental Hotel continues
to win “Best Hotel in the World” year after year. The long,
rich, cultural heritage and abundant natural resources of this proud
Buddhist nation jostle for space within the dynamism of a country
undergoing economic boom. In turns, zestful and tranquil, resplendent
and subtle, Thailand is always compelling. Allow the experts
at Frontiers to craft an itinerary just for you.
Mollie Fitzgerald
50

CHILE IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER YOU BET —
AND LET EXPLORA BE YOUR GUIDE. The pioneering,
Santiago, Chile-based travel operator has
earned its critically acclaimed reputation by introducing
the remotest regions of the South American
continent. From the heart of the Atacama Desert to
fascinating Easter Island in the South Pacific to the
skyscraping peaks of Patagonia, explora’s unique
focus on culture and natural beauty is a breath of
fresh travel.
Far from popular perception, the tip of South America is actually
quite hospitable from May through August, when autumn and winter
reign in the Southern Hemisphere. In May-June, Torres del
Paine National Park is wrapped in stunning red, orange and yellow
hues — perfect natural light for photography. The winter months of
July and August have mostly sunny days with overwhelming vistas
of snow-capped landscapes. September ushers in spring with
longer days, flowers in full bloom, and an abundance of wildlife.
Situated in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park, explora
Patagonia’s lodge has all of the comforts of home — and then
some. But it’s the opportunities for exploration — including guided
hiking, mountain biking and a stable of horses — that make guests
long to return. With no fixed arrival dates between April-September
and few visitors on the trails, there is no better time to fly south to
experience the wonders of Patagonia.
explora
Chile
high-powered Meade 16-inch LX200R telescope assures incredible
perspectives on the world’s clearest night sky.
Meanwhile, on a solitary stretch of land overlooking the Pacific on
the southern edge of Easter Island, explora Rapa Nui recently
marked its first anniversary and Latin America’s first-ever LEED
Certification for environmentally friendly building practices.
Excellent service, a magnificent restaurant with a glassed-in
kitchen, and an inviting outdoor pool area enhance the experience.
However, the ancient moai, standing sentinel after all this time, is
what captures the imagination.
United by a common philosophy of experiencing remote destinations,
ancient cultures and natural beauty, each explora destination
promises remarkable year-round discovery for adventurous souls.
The destination is perfect for romantic honeymooners and familystyle
travelers alike. Hike to Nordenskjold Vista Point for grand
views on sunny days; horseback ride through prairie, streams and
mountains to Donoso Vista Point; or take a photo safari revealing a
diversion of fauna including guanacos, rheas, condors, foxes, ducks,
geese, skunks and avian species.
In Atacama, the newly renovated explora lodge plays off the desert
with a variety of opportunities for adventure and comfort. Order a
cocktail and settle into the new sala de exploradores to review the
coming day’s explorations. Relax in one of the four solar-heated
pools, two open-air Jacuzzis and a new Turkish bath, all surrounded
by native greenery providing habitat for birds. And be sure
to schedule time in the lodge’s new on-site observatory, where a
Stargazing at explora en Atacama
A new approach to exploration is awaiting guests of the explora en
Atacama lodge — stargazing from the on-site observatory. Leaving
advanced physics and complicated mathematical equations
behind, nighttime adventurers gather beneath an observation
dome measuring five meters in diameter for a clear view of the
Southern solar system. The new Meade 16” f/10 LX200R Advanced
RD Telescope is a first-class telescope, generously accessorized
with premium-grade optical glass, a Super Wide Angle Eyepiece,
and a “piggyback bracket” enabling the mounting of digital cameras
for spectacular astrophotography. This “exploratory” experience
complements the lunar-like landscape of the Atacama Desert.
51

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Savor
Argentina
&
Chile
Any Month of the Year
AVID SKIERS, WINE ENTHUSIASTS, SPORTSMEN
AND GOURMANDS AS WELL AS TRAVELERS WHO
LOVE THE GREAT OUTDOORS AND WILDLIFE, REL-
ISH HISTORY, APPRECIATE DIFFERENT CULTURES,
OR HAVE AN INTEREST IN GEOLOGY WILL FIND
“SOUTHERN” SOUTH AMERICA TO BE THE PER-
FECT DESTINATION. Argentina and Chile offer
excellent value, warm hospitality, outstanding
hotels, exceptional cuisine, specialist guides, and a
year-round venue of activities, making these countries
superb choices for a vacation to remember.
While Argentina and Chile’s summer is the most popular season to
visit, we are seeing increased interest in other times of the year as
well. For example, in July and August skiing in Portillo and Valles
Nevada in Chile or the Cerro Catedral ski area in Bariloche can be
combined with Chapelco Ski Resort in San Martin de los Andes in
Argentina. Northwest Argentina’s up-and-coming Salta region is at its
best from April through October, and September through November
is the perfect time to enjoy the rich marine life of Trelew, including
southern right whales, along the southeast Argentine coast.
Excursions in the wine regions of both countries can be arranged in
almost any season. Chile’s explora lodges in Patagonia, Atacama, and
Easter Island can be visited year-round. Iguazu Falls is also a yearround
destination and among the many new options available there
are kayaking on the river, helicopter “flightseeing” over the falls, and
enjoying the newly renovated Das Cataratas Hotel, now under the
aegis of Orient-Express.
Frontiers’ itineraries feature personalized touches and private entrée
opportunities to make your South American travel experience
unique; for example: play a round of golf at the new Jack Nicklaus
Golf course and then visit the studios of a prominent painter and an
accomplished silversmith in Argentina’s San Martin region. We love
this location and keep current on the newest accommodations
there, which include the beautiful 5-bedroom La Araucana Lodge,
and the exclusive 3-bedroom, full-service El Casco Viejo Lodge overlooking
the golf course with world-class trout fishing right outside
the front door. This is “classic Patagonia” and definitely one of our
favorite places. There are now deluxe lodges in Chile’s Colchagua
Valley and a private home with full staffing and all amenities in the
Maipu Wine Valley. A variety of new boutique hotels and lodges have
opened, both in major cities (like the new “W” opening in Santiago
in April 2009) and in very remote areas as well.
In-depth wine excursions to the Colchagua, Casablanca, and Maipu
Valleys in Chile and to Mendoza, the Uco Valley, Cafayate and San
Rafael in Argentina have become increasingly popular. The outstanding
wine ratings from these countries are indicative of the
quality of wines now being produced, exported and acclaimed
throughout the world. Cavas Wine Lodge retains its preeminent
boutique lodging position in Mendoza, but the new 8-room
Antucura Lodge, centrally located in the Uco Valley, has also
received rave reviews. Some well-liked activities in the wine
regions include cooking classes, wine pairing with specially pre-
52

La Araucana Lodge
pared meals, and wine blending sessions where you create your own wine.
Reports are just now coming in about new wines being recognized from
Cafayate in Northwest Argentina, and Colome is an outstanding recommendation
for experiencing high-altitude viticulture in a pristine setting with
beautiful accommodations.
Frontiers’ staff has made dozens of trips to Chile and Argentina and are experts
at coordinating the personalized travel experience you desire in the most efficient,
comfortable, and value-conscious way. The logistics in these countries
provide challenges in developing itineraries because of the magnitude of open
space where many times there are no roads or airports, but this is what makes
them so special and appealing. Plus, our local contacts truly care about our
clients and can really make a difference in the success of your trip.
These are just a few of the many reasons to rely on Frontiers as you begin
planning your customized trip to this magical part of the world.
Susie Gavlik
“Our trip was absolutely fantastic, and we want to
express our sincere appreciation for your outstanding
help in organizing such an amazing, seamless experience;
all the hotels, staff, transportation were excellent. The
people in Argentina were so wonderfully friendly and
helpful. La Araucana Lodge was the highlight for
accommodations and food.” B.C., Scottsville, NY
53

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AFTER SPENDING MY WINTERS IN CENTRAL
AMERICA OVER THE LAST TEN YEARS, I FELT IT
WAS TIME TO EXPAND MY TRAVELS, including
more of two countries that I had not totally covered
before — Costa Rica and Panama. Choosing my
favorite place among the many in each country was
a difficult task. Costa Rica, with more than a dozen
distinct climatic zones, provided the greatest challenge.
I do have a hands-down winner in Panama.
Costa Rica offered so many great areas to visit I must share two of
those with you.
Gems
of Central America
The first, a three-hour drive from San Jose, is Monteverde Lodge, a
perfect base to explore the Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest
Reserve. Large, comfortable guest rooms feature angled walls of
glass with chairs and a table placed so that avid birders can do a
bit of birding without leaving their rooms, which I did both at sunrise
and sunset.
The gardens and secondary forest surrounding the lodge have some
gentle groomed trails and are also home to quite a few species of
birds and playful monkeys. Perhaps the lodge’s most popular attraction
is the large hot tub in a glass-enclosed atrium garden just off
the lobby. The local troop of monkeys likes to sit on top of the
atrium and watch the tourists enjoy their late-afternoon cocktail.
The hotel’s dining room offers great views, good food, and excellent
service. An adjacent bar with fireplace is a popular gathering
spot to recap the day’s activities, and there are regular evening
slide shows focusing on the cloud forest and its inhabitants.
Tortuga Lodge
The Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest Reserve is one of the most
developed and well-maintained natural attractions in Costa Rica.
One experience you must not miss is the Hummingbird Gallery at
the entrance to the park. Whether a bird lover or not, this extravaganza
is an amazing sight. You stand among the many feeders
(filled every couple of hours) with hundreds of hummingbirds flying
around you from feeder to feeder in a constant frenzy.
The second of my two gems in Costa Rica is in a more tropical
locale; I tried a couple of days in Tortuguero (Costa Rica’s mini-
Amazon) on the Caribbean coast. The Tortuga Lodge’s 27 open-air
rooms are spread between six modest two-story bungalows that
emerge gently from the tropical foliage. The lodge has a lovely
river-rock pool and excellent service: the general manager calls
guests by name, and the chef can prepare basic dishes that aren’t
on the simple set menu.
Tortuguero shelters a fabulous array of wildlife including more than
300 bird species, among them the great green macaw; 57 species
of amphibians and 111 of reptiles including three species of marine
turtles; 60 mammal species (13 of Costa Rica’s 16 endangered
species) including jaguars, tapirs, ocelots, cougars, river otters, and
54

manatees. I saw toucans, aricaris, oropendolas, swallow-tailed
hawks, several species of herons, kingfishers, anhingas, parrots, and
jacanas. The wide-open canals make viewing easier than at many
other parks — superb for spotting crocodiles, giant iguanas, basilisk
lizards sunning atop the branches, and caimans luxuriating on the
fallen branches at the side of the river. The river guide from the
hotel was great, pointing out wildlife we would never have noticed.
Whether you want an active vacation or prefer total relaxation – or,
for many, a combination of both — Costa Rica will not disappoint.
Panama City is known for its lively nightlife. It all takes place in
three sectors of the city: the business district, Casco Viejo, and the
spectacular Amador Causeway. My highlight of Panama, however,
was a visit to an Embera village. We traveled by small motorboat
45 minutes up the Mogue River into the Darien Gap (the missing
link in the Pan-American Highway that otherwise stretches from
Alaska to Tierra del Fuego). We entered the Darien Jungle to spend
some time with the Embera Choco people, the original natives of
the area. The timing has to be right, going in as the tide is swelling
and getting out before the water level starts going down, but the
slow journey makes for great birding.
Young girls and boys led us by the hand to the village of thatchroofed
homes on stilts, where villagers are able to live off the land
sustainably and make some extra money from tourist visit fees and
handicraft sales. Since
mass-market tourism in
the Darién is wholly
absent, the Embera rely
on ancestral means of survival,
and village life continues
unabated whether
tourists are there or not.
Guests to Mogue are
treated to an open and
honest look at traditional
Embera lifestyles, traditions,
dance and crafts. If
you speak a little Spanish,
you’ll revel in the opportunity
to talk with some of
the last remaining inhabitants
of the neotropical
rain forest.
Whether searching for an ecological gem of wildlife and flora or
cosmopolitan nightlife with a Latin flair, these two countries can
provide both to meet any traveler’s expectations.
Cindy Smith
55

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Baja Escape
Exploring the Sea of Cortez
YOU WON’T FIND CASINOS, ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT
BUFFETS, OR VEGAS-STYLE SHOWS ON BOARD A
LINDBLAD EXPEDITION CRUISE. But I CAN GUAR-
ANTEE you will set foot on some of the remotest destinations
known to man and join other intrepid,
like-minded travelers who’ve returned home from
their adventure only to begin planning their next
journey with Lindblad.
My goal as a Lindblad LEXLeader was to personally experience a
Lindblad cruise. When the opportunity presented itself in early
December, I packed my family’s bags and we were off to La Paz,
Mexico, to board the 62-passenger Sea Bird for a 4-night cruise
through the Sea of Cortez. We’d been on other expedition cruises
so had some expectations. But based on rave reviews from
Frontiers’ returning Lindblad clients, we knew that this was going
to be a life-changing holiday.
We were most impressed with the naturalist guides, who for this
particular departure had collectively 100-plus years of guiding
experience between them. This team of experts — scientists, naturalists
and historians — was handpicked by Lindblad to share their
insights, knowledge and (very contagious!) enthusiasm with on
board guests. Throughout the journey we were shadowed by a
Video Chronicler who captured our memories of the trip with his
behind-the-scenes video footage — truly a priceless keepsake.
And what about the dining experience you ask Well, this was certainly
the first cruise where weight gain was not an issue. To eliminate
waste, you were asked to choose your entrée ahead of time
as either half or full portions. In addition, we were fortunate to
have Jesse Cool, owner of two California restaurants — Flea St.
Café and Cool Café — lead a discussion on sustainable cooking followed
by a hands-on culinary lesson. This Chefs-at-Sea opportunity
was in conjunction with Lindblad’s experimental partnership with
Chefs Collaborative, a U.S. network of more than 1,500 chefs and
culinary professionals who source and cook with sustainable, local
and organic ingredients.
La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, is truly where the “desert
meets the sea.” We saw nothing for miles except water, uninhabited
islands dotted with cactus, and marine wildlife that never ceased to
amaze us with their unexpected visits and antics. Having the luxury
of no set itinerary, the Captain was able to navigate the Sea Bird into
areas unfrequented by mega liners. Once the anchor was dropped,
further exploration was done by zodiacs, kayaks and on foot.
Highlights of the expedition included the glimmer of awe and
wonder in my 8-year-old son’s eyes as he watched a pod of bottlenosed
dolphins hitch a ride on the bow, snorkeling with the
California sea lions at Los Islotes, and the evening beach barbecue
followed by stargazing instruction and regales of the Aztec gods.
Since 1979, Lindblad Expeditions has pioneered the model for
sustainable tourism by leaving only the slightest imprint on the
natural world. Its relationship with National Geographic further
enhances their joint motto of “inspiring people to explore and care
about the planet.” Lindblad’s destinations include the Galapagos
Islands, Antarctica, Alaska, Arctic North, and Costa Rica to name
just a few. No matter where one travels with Lindblad, environmental
preservation and local community give-back are at the
forefront of their philosophy.
As you refocus your attention on discretionary spending, look no
further than Lindblad Expeditions for a family cruise that will not
only capture a child’s imagination but also will inspire, rejuvenate
and enrich your life, plus provide great value.
Susie Gavlik
56

MADE FAMOUS BY CHARLES DARWIN, THE
GALAPAGOS ISLANDS ARE AN ENCHANTING
DESTINATION YOU WILL NOT SOON FORGET. At
first, they appear desolate. Yet, these rough and
rocky islands are home to wonderfully strange and
abundant wildlife. Like Darwin some 200 years
before us, you will marvel at the highly adapted
creatures that have no innate fear of man and are
found nowhere else on earth.
Galapagos
In March of 2008, I had the incredible opportunity to experience
the Galapagos through the eyes of Lindblad Expeditions
on board the Polaris. Their crew and naturalist guides make
you feel as if you were a part of it all; their passion and devotion
for creating informative encounters with the islands turned
me from a vacationer to an explorer. You not only just observe
the wildlife but also interact with it.
Everyone became actively
engaged in the excursions,
and the crew picked a nice
balance of interesting things
to do daily, from swimming,
snorkeling, hiking, and kayaking
to enjoying the thrill of a
glass-bottomed boat. Lindblad
supplies all the equipment
that you might need. The dining
experience emphasizes
fish, fresh vegetables and fruit,
Anne Uram with blue-footed boobie
often served with an
Ecuadorian flair. Breakfast and lunch are buffet-style. You select
your evening main course at breakfast time from an imaginative
menu, picking from several appealing alternatives. Vegetarians
will do just fine. Service is excellent and attire is informal.
You go to the Galapagos to learn about and explore a unique
place on earth, and Lindblad helps you accomplish this goal.
Understanding that expeditions should be fun as well as educational,
children are always welcomed. It’s a shared social experience
from beginning to end.
Since 1997, the Polaris has been Lindblad’s flagship in
the Galapagos. In May of 2009, Lindblad will reposition
the Endeavour from Antarctica to the Galapagos to
replace the Polaris and join Lindblad’s other Galapagos
vessel, the Islander.
This year will be a banner year to visit the Galapagos Islands as it
sees the 200th bicentenary of Charles Darwin’s birth and the
150th anniversary of his book, On the Origin of Species. To
inspire, excite, discover and share, local residents will hold special
celebrations to commemorate his legacy and how his scientific
theories have impacted the world.
Anne Uram
To commemorate Charles Darwin’s
200th birthday and the 150-year
anniversary of the publication of his
On the Origin of Species, Abercrombie
& Kent and Travel + Leisure are offering
a transformation vacation to the
Galapagos Islands, October 22-November 1,
2009. Randal Keynes, Darwin’s great-great-grandson, will be your
host as you explore the Galapagos on board the 48-passenger
Eclipse. Highlights of this departure include a private visit to the
Charles Darwin Research Station, participation in the inaugural
festivities for the new Darwin Facility on Santa Cruz Island, and
attendance at a reception at the British Embassy in Quito,
Ecuador, with guests representing the Charles Darwin
Foundation. Call Susie Gavlik for more details and to check availability
for this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
57

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Lake Kora
A LAST “GREAT CAMP OF THE ADIRONDACKS” — for the
first time offering a limited number of rentals to families
and small groups.
An Adirondack "wikiup"
for comfortable campfires
During “the Gilded Years” between 1870 and 1930, long before the days
of air conditioning and 25 percent income tax, the Adirondacks topped
the fashionable summer-place-to-be list. The industrialists, leading politicians,
and other movers and shakers of the era wanted to escape the
summer heat of the cities so they (including J.P. Morgan, the Vanderbilts,
the Astors and the Rockefellers) began building what became known as
the Adirondack Great Camps.
To call these amazing compounds a “camp” is akin to calling a 1982 Lafite
Rothschild “a red wine.” As Harvey Kaiser writes in his book Great Camps
of the Adirondacks, “These ‘Great Camps’ were to the beautiful and
secluded Adirondack region what the ‘Cottages’ were to Newport; contradictions
in terminology, but marvels of construction and architectural
imagination.” Do not envision a single building, cabin or simple dwelling;
the Great Camps were more like a small village and often included main
residences, guest cabins, dining halls, two-storied boathouses and playhouses
as well as separate staff quarters. It’s hard to imagine the amazing
number of people that worked in the blacksmith and carpentry shops,
dairy, stables, gardens, and kitchen. It was not unusual for the staff to outnumber
guests by four to one.
58

Three camps built in relative proximity close to Raquette Lake —
Camp Sagamore for the Vanderbilts, Camp Uncas for J.P. Morgan,
and the camp at Lake Kora — were considered the triumph of
builder W.W. Durant, the stylish son of Dr. Thomas Clark Durant,
who helped pioneer the country’s first transcontinental railroad.
Envisioning luxury in the wilderness, Durant created a much-imitated
architectural style that would become a ”unique episode in
American architectural history,” said Kaiser. Now, for the first time,
the current owner of this spectacular, historic acreage is making
the compound available in its entirety for up to 22 guests.
The historic camp at Lake Kora, complete with some of the finest
rustic furniture of the period, is considered a masterwork of regional
architecture by experts. Located six miles from the main road on
1,000 wooded acres with three lakes, this privately owned estate
(originally built for the prominent Woodruff family and owned for a
time by the Vanderbilts) is comprised of original turn-of-the-century
handcrafted log and stone lodges. Among the numerous outbuildings,
there is a Main House with five inviting, unique rooms and a
stunning Boathouse with individual apartments. There’s a lakeside
Gardener’s Cottage, two lovely additional guest cabins, plus a very
private cabin on an island in the lake. Fireplaces are abundant in all
of the buildings and always lit for you when there’s a chill in the air
— truly the ultimate in log cabin luxury!
The old Power House has been restored to a pine-paneled meeting
facility with wireless capability and Power Point. The old Ice House
is now the ladies’ side of the spa and — you guessed it — the Meat
House is the men’s side. Among the amenities are a vintage twolane
Brunswick bowling alley, traditional wooden canvas canoes for
guests’ use, and any classic lake toys you might possibly want — all
in mint condition. In the evening, roast marshmallows at the lakeside
log lean-to, called a “wikiup,” decked out with reclining cushions,
woolen Adirondack blankets, and a roaring fire pit. During our
early October stay, a local native American storyteller came after
dinner and held us spellbound with tales of the woods.
There’s so much to do at Lake Kora. With the lake as the focal point,
there’s a walking path and other scenic hiking paths plus a private
lighted tennis court and a softball field. The Playhouse has ping
pong and a huge game room with TV and video toys, and there is
an Adirondack-style pool table in the Main Lodge.
Delicious, classic American cuisine with the freshest ingredients is
featured at Lake Kora. Phenomenal meals are served in the Main
Lodge’s convivial dining room, though picnics are frequently
requested and very popular. (Don’t miss the wild blueberry pancakes
with the camp’s own maple syrup — oh, my!)
The best time for visits is mid-July throughout the winter. Available
for groups of up to 22, the daily rate is $25,000 with a 4-day minimum.
Frontiers is privileged to offer this rare chance for families,
corporate gatherings or groups of friends to experience one of the
last impeccably maintained, privately owned Great Camps of the
Adirondacks. Live like a Vanderbilt and experience history for your
next family get-together or customer entertaining at the beautiful
camp of Lake Kora.
Jill Jergel
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Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
”The smell and taste
Top Tables
By Kirsten Gardner
of things remain
poised a long time,
ready to remind us . . .
the immense edifice
of memory.”
— Marcel Proust
IF YOU AGREE WITH THE ABOVE REFLECTION,
THEN PERHAPS IT IS NOT A STRETCH TO UNDER-
STAND WHY DINING ABROAD IS ONE OF THE
MOST ANTICIPATED AND MEMORABLE FACETS OF
AN EXCEPTIONAL TRIP FOR MANY TRAVELERS.
Even today, the aroma of seared duck carries my
thoughts to St. Martin and specifically the best meal
of my life to date, enjoyed in 2003 at the lovely Le
Chanteclair along the Marigot Marina Royale. The
food was divine (see review for gastronomic details),
but the coral-streaked dusk, the white fishing boats
bobbing in the harbor, and the festive company are
all equally conjured in my mind today through the
slightest olfactory detection of sizzling duck.
Here at Frontiers, members of our experienced staff (many of
whom are self-professed foodies!) travel annually to the global
destinations they represent to stay current. Though our travel is
often a whirlwind of inspecting hotels and meeting with general
managers and local tour operators, we get to have a little fun too;
we wine, we dine, and we’re happy to give you our two cents
worth! While some of the entries in our personally inspected collection
of international eateries might not get the nod from
Michelin or James Beard, either the location, the ambience, the
cast of characters, or the local flavor merits a meal. We hope you’ll
keep these Frontiers picks for Top Tables in mind the next time
your travels take you to any of the following locations. Enjoy!
Europe
Amsterdam, The Netherlands — Tucked into the Jordaan neighborhood,
Bordewijk serves French cuisine splashed with Asian
and Mediterranean influences to create an elegant fusion of flavors.
A Thursday night visit in November revealed cozy tables and a
lively crowd, as the dining room was filled to capacity, mostly with
locals, and punctuated by the young head chef, who strolled
between tables checking on all of his guests. The Bresse-style wild
pigeon was absolutely delicious as was the organic rack of Duroc
pig. Make reservations for a summer weekend and dine alfresco
on the canal-side patio. Recommended by Linda Rumburg
Paris, France — During
my early October visit to
the tiny, eclectic, and ohso-Parisian
dining room
of La Pétrelle, the other
tables clearly were occupied
by the buyers who
flock to the city at this
time for the spring collections.
The word is out on
the “jungle drums” so
make your reservation
fast if you’re going to the Jill with Jean-Luc
City of Light. The deluxe
flea-market décor is as interesting as the fantastic cuisine created
by owner Jean-Luc André, whose hallmark is imaginative use of
fresh French herbs and inspired taste combinations that send the
lucky diners to heaven. Recommended by Jill Jergel
Tivoli, Italy -- With age-old wisteria shading you from the sun,
lunch at Ristorante Sibilla is a refreshing pause in a day spent
touring the ruins of Tivoli. The lovely terrace has a view worth traveling
for: the Temples of Vesta and Sibyl, the Villa Gregoriana and
the famous Tivoli waterfalls. Traditional Romanesque cuisine (with
special kudos to their grilled offerings — such as veal and rosemary
potatoes — and superb hospitality nicely complement the stunning
vistas. Recommended by Colleen Wiley
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The Loggia at
Villa San Michele
Florence, Italy — In the
heart of Florence’s trendy
shopping area, Cantinetta
dei Verrazzano — part
bustling bakery, part
restaurant — is a little gem
with just six or seven
tables. It was recommended by Luca Finardi, the GM of Villa San
Michele, and may just be the most perfect lunch spot on the
planet. We liked it so much that we went back every day. Let your
waiter order for you and don’t miss out on the house specialty for
dessert — pecorino cheese on dense dark bread with orange zest,
fresh grated pepper and drizzled with honey . . . divine!
Ricardo Caloffi
Also around Florence, the sun-dried tomatoes
at the Villa San Michele in Fiesole are the
best in all of Italy, and if you ask nicely, my
favorite barman, Ricardo, just might pack some
up to send home with you. Recommended by
Mollie Fitzgerald
Bilbao, Spain — A complete surprise on a visit in November was
lunch at the Guggenheim Museum Restaurant, which has a separate
entrance to welcome diners not interested in visiting the
museum. Under the tutelage of Manager Martin Berasategui
(owner of three Michelin stars), some of the best Basque chefs
prepare meals, including two tasting menus — all offered at a reasonable
price. You can enjoy an environment consistent with the
museum’s avant-garde design: high ceilings, hardwood, large windows
and stunning views over the river and the University of
Deusto. Try it for lunch — our experience is that it isn’t overly
touristy. Recommended by Meredith McNaugher
Granada, Spain — Whet your appetite at the Alhambra and then
refresh and head to Cunini for the freshest fish and shellfish
shipped daily from Northern Spain. Dine outside in the canvasand-gauze-swathed
pavilion, where potted flowers and cleverly
concealed misters help cut the Andalucian heat. The sea bass
Cunini style is to die for, delicately poached in a savory lemon
cream sauce, but the menu touts close to 100 items and you can’t
go wrong ordering off the raw bar. Inside there’s a long marble bar
crowded with friendly locals and affable barmen who were nice
enough to introduce us to barnacles, a bit like a snail, with a briny
aftertaste! Recommended by Kirsten Gardner
Lisbon, Portugal — Sunday nights can be a challenge in Lisbon
with many of their top tables closed; at the suggestion of the Lapa
Palace concierge, we tried Espaco Lisboa and were genuinely
pleased with the rural tavern-style atmosphere, the attentive service,
and the copious and delicious menu! A great stop for carnivores
— we started with a lovely creamy local cheese called Queijo
de Azeitao, that melted in your mouth on homemade bread, followed
by garlic prawns, suckling pig and tiny little lamb chops.
Recommended by Mollie Fitzgerald
St. Petersburg, Russia — There are many upscale and casual dining
options including quite a variety of ethnic restaurants in St.
Petersburg. During my recent trip, I enjoyed having dinner at
Khutor Vodograi, a casual Ukrainian restaurant. Designed as a traditional
peasant homestead, it features excellent home-style
Ukrainian cuisine and typical beverages such as gorilka (homemade
vodka). I particularly enjoyed vareniki (cottage cheese
dumplings), Ukrainian borsch (beat and cabbage soup) served
with pompushki (hot rolls) and buckwheat pancake pie. Service is
prompt and staff dressed in colorful national costumes speak
English and offer advice on an extensive menu selection. Cheerful
Ukrainian music complements the scene. Recommended by
Natasha Tichy
Kobarid, Slovenia — In a tiny alpine town above the Socˇa River
Valley, the family-run Topli Val (Warm Wave in English) attracts
locals, tourists and anglers from all over Europe with incredibly
fresh yet simple seafood dishes and accommodating service. On a
recent visit, I enjoyed oysters from Cancale, lobster truffle pasta,
and an inspired roulade of local trout and wilted greens with a
drizzling of fennel
cream. Peoplewatching
from the
covered veranda is
a true delight during
warmer months.
Ask Aleš Hvala,
owner and manager
of the restaurant
and the adjacent
Hotel Hvala, to recommend
a local
wine to complement one of the best dining experiences in
Slovenia (Šcˇurek from the Brda region is a personal favorite!).
Recommended by Kirsten Gardner
(Continued on next page)
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Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Kristene Matelan
in the Rhubarb
Restaurant’s lounge
Africa & The Middle East
Edinburgh, Scotland — Rhubarb Restaurant is a hidden gem just
a five-minute cab ride off of the historic Royal Mile. Richly decadent,
romantic and chic, the restaurant occupies two extravagantly
decorated Regency oval rooms of the Prestonfield Hotel. The
whole hotel is very boudoir in style with deep reds, soft lighting,
sumptuous fabrics and tapestries, fabulous art and fine furniture.
While you peruse the menu, pre-dinner drinks are served by blackkilted
staff in one of the intimate lounges. Oh, and ladies you must
check out the over-the-top pink powder room complete with
chaise lounge! Recommended by Kristene Matelan
Muscat, Oman —
When its 104
degrees outside and
you find yourself in
that awkward
“pause period,” 3-6
p.m. when alcohol
is not served in
observance of
Muslim disciplines,
head to the The Bar
at the Chedi and try
one of their signature frozen drinks — my favorite: frozen lemonade
with tons of fresh chopped mint. This oh-so-green concoction is
certain to cool, refresh, and tide you over ’til happy hour!
Recommended by Mollie Fitzgerald
Oxford, England — Next time you
are in Oxford, make a gastronomic
pilgrimage to the town of
Great Milton; you’ll find Le Manoir
aux Quat Saisons — Raymond
Blanc’s two-Michelin-star restaurant,
cooking school and luxury country hotel,
owned and operated by Orient-Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises.
Fresh ingredients are the focus here, with a sizeable amount of the
produce grown on site in the wonderful gardens and greenhouse.
Be sure to save your daily carbohydrate intake for dinner; potato
bread, bacon bread, pecan nut and raisin, whole-meal bread,
cibatta and sourdough are all baked on site and should definitely
not be skipped as they are a delightful prelude to the great meal
to come. Recommended by Meredith McNaugher
Johannesburg, South Africa — At home, I’m the epitome of a continental
breakfast type of gal, but on a trip, I love to tuck into a
savory hearty breakfast. The breakfast buffet at the Saxon Hotel
had the most extensive selection of goodies — in addition to the
usual fruit, pastries and cereals, there was something for everyone.
Care to start with a half dozen fresh oysters How about some
sushi — fresh cheeses — ten kinds of nuts I had a fabulous rendition
of nasi goreng with chiles and a poached egg each morning of
my stay. Recommended by Mollie Fitzgerald
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Asia
Bangkok, Thailand —
My friend and Director
of Sales of the legendary
Oriental Hotel,
Marita Marcos, invited
me to dinner in
Bangkok last summer at
Lord Jim’s. I’d been
there once before for
their Sunday lunch buffet,
which was extensive
and beautifully
presented — but
Dennis Tan,
Managing
Director, A&K
Thailand,
with iceencased
sorbet at
Lord Jim's
crowded. I prefer the evening venue which is beautifully lit and
more intimate, and it was the best dinner of my two weeks in
The Americas & The Caribbean
Yountville, CA — When most people think of the Napa Valley, great
wine and fine dining come to mind. Mention Yountville and many
would say restaurants like French Laundry and Bouchon are a must.
On a recent visit there we stumbled upon Redd, the first venture
from Chef Richard Reddington, formerly of Masa’s and Jardiniere in
San Francisco and Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley. The atmosphere
is polished and contemporary, but unpretentious and inviting. I had
the Wolfe Ranch quail, which was unbelievably delicious, and the
dessert (peanut butter, milk chocolate gianduja and peanut honeycomb
parfait) was to die for! Recommended by Mike Fitzgerald, Jr.
Las Vegas, NV —
The best bar in Las
Vegas, Sensi at
Bellagio, does a
quick fusion-style
lunch and veteran
bartenders Jesus
and Teresa are pros!
Recommended by
Mollie Fitzgerald
Thailand. Their specialty is seafood and we more than indulged
with sushi, squid-ink pastas, gorgeous salads, an ice-encased sorbet
and crepes suzette! Couple all of this with a table by the window
and watch the boats on the Chao Praya River and it’s no
wonder this hotel is consistently #1 in the world. Recommended
by Mollie Fitzgerald
Mumbai, India — We had dinner at
Trishna, one of the city’s most famous
seafood restaurants. While the restaurant
itself is not impressive, located in
an older section of town on a narrow
side street, Trishna’s claim to fame is
the seafood — simply outstanding.
Their Indian Ocean king crab in butter,
garlic, and black pepper is legendary.
We also had garlic prawns that were
exceptional, pomfret (butter fish) done
several ways (the hariyali version in
green masala baked in the tandoor is
highly recommended), and crispy pepper calamari. Traditional
Indian vegetarian dishes are available and a variety of wonderful
Indian breads are offered to accompany the meals. Trishna is a
favorite of Mumbai residents as well as visitors to the city, so reservations
are suggested. Recommended by Joyce Larkin
Marigot, St. Martin — Someday I will return to St. Martin simply to
sit beneath the cheery yellow awning of Le Chanteclair and enjoy
Chef Cecile Briaud’s exquisite French cuisine with a wonderful
Caribbean kick.
Hands down the
best entrée of my
life: seared duck
breast with poached
pears drizzled in a
red wine reduction
served atop roasted
spring vegetables in a deliciously light phyllo pastry. The threecourse
lobster menu is a treat as is the gazpacho with clams. And
be sure to save room for the ‘L’Innommable au Chocolat’ — an
unforgettable finish that you’ll have to try for yourself to name!
Recommended by Kirsten Gardner
San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina — “The setting is extraordinary
as you look over the lake and see the fading light on surrounding
hills and wind blown conifers. We were greeted by
Ernest, a blond Germanic Argentine, and his wife who prepares the
modern European cuisine. The food is superb; too many delicacies
to name, but just a few: salmon ceviche in a vegetable puree,
lamb en croute, marinated nine hours, exquisite trout, plus
desserts to die for. And the wines are as good as anything we had
in Buenos Aires. It is a shame we have to leave tomorrow because
La Cassis is worth a return visit.” Recommended by Frontiers’
client T.G., Oxford, MD
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Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com
Award-Winning Service
Frontiers was honored once again to be included
in Condé Nast Traveler magazine’s annual list of
“128 Top Travel Planners.” Three members of our
team were recognized by Consumer News Editor
Wendy Perrin in the August 2008 issue. We
applaud Condé Nast Traveler for their “Truth in
Travel” philosophy and cutting-edge style.
Frontiers Goes There.
FRESHWATER
FISHING
Jill Jergel – for specialties in France and barging
Natasha Tichy – for Russia, and the Baltic Countries of
Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania
Mollie Fitzgerald – as a “Generalist,” and Conde Nast Traveler
Advisory Board Member and for specialties in fly fishing and bird shooting
ELEGANT
JOURNEYS
We were equally delighted to be recognized
by Travel + Leisure magazine in their prestigious
“A-List of 128 Top Travel Experts.”
Contributing Editor, Andrea
Bennett, identified Mollie
Fitzgerald as an expert in
Active Travel in the September
2008 article.
PHOTO
SAFARIS
SALTWATER
FISHING
Frontiers’ Bethany Hunkele was recognized
by Travel Agent Magazine in their coverstory
article about “30 Under 30” celebrating
30 agents across the country under the age
of 30 who are “up and coming industry
leaders.” Bethany uses her summa cum
laude university degree and fluency in
French, working with France specialist Jill
Jergel on our barge program and creating custom itineraries in her favorite
country. Bethany has embraced all aspects of the travel industry in her short
3-year tenure with Frontiers and has an expert eye for logistical details, balancing
all of this with the newfound joys of motherhood. Well done, Bethany!
Two orphan dance students pause to play at
Apsara Arts Association, Phnom Penh
Frontiers was honored
to take second
place and two honorable
mentions in their
first-ever photography
contest at the
Virtuoso Travel Mart.
Virtuoso is an upscale
leisure travel consortium
of which
Frontiers has been a
member for the past
six years. Over 2000
images were submitted
to the contest in
three categories:
People, Wildlife and Destination/Landscape. A total of 40 finalists were selected
and displayed, so we were thrilled to have 3 of the 40 images. Photographs
were taken by Tarquin Millington-Drake and Mollie Fitzgerald.
WING
SHOOTING
United States Office
P.O. Box 959, Wexford, PA 15090-0959
Toll-free 800-245-1950
Phone 724-935-1577
Fax 724-935-2930
E-mail info@frontierstravel.com
Web Site www.frontiersej.com
European Office
Dovecot Workshops, Barnsley Park
Barnsley, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 5EG,
England
Tel +44 (0)1285 741340
Fax +44 (0)1285 741341
E-mail info@frontierstrvl.co.uk
The air holidays and flights in this brochure are ATOL protected
by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is ATOL 3315.
Copyright © 2009. Frontiers International Travel. All rights reserved.
Photo Credits: Abercrombie & Kent Library; Berlin Tourism Marketing GmbH;
explora; Four Seasons; Gary Hall; Great Plains Conservation; Hotel Havla;
Le Chanteclair; Lindblad Expeditions; L’Occitiane; Oberammergau Tourismus;
One&Only; Orient-Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises; Phelps Studio; Sal Salis;
Sanctuare; Slovenian Tourist Board; South Australia Tourism;
Southern Ocean Lodge; Villa San Michele; Volcanoes Safaris;
Wilderness Safaris Library; and Frontiers staff.
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