EJ Latitudes 1/08.qxd - Frontiers Elegant Journeys

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Old Muscat
Oman
On the Rise
”Of all the trips Frontiers has arranged for
us, our recent trip to Oman, Qatar, and
Dubai was one of the most interesting,
beautiful and educational trips we have
ever taken!!” S.W., Maryland
Jibreen Castle
THE SULTANATE OF OMAN CAPTURED MY IMAGINATION LIKE
NO OTHER DESTINATION HAS RECENTLY. I DEVOURED
WILFRED THESIGER’S ARABIAN SANDS, WHICH CHRONICLED
HIS OFTEN ARDUOUS JOURNEYS THROUGH THE “EMPTY
QUARTER,” AND LONGED TO VISIT. With just under two weeks’
notice, an opportunity presented itself last May to accompany my
UK-based colleague Lara MacDonald. I leapt at it! Oman has
over 600 miles of coastline (including some lovely unspoiled
beaches that border the Arabian Sea, the Gulf of Oman, and the
Arabian Gulf); towering mountains; dry riverbeds called wadis;
deserts galore; palm-strewn oases; over 1,000 historic forts, castles
and watchtowers; and a rich cultural heritage. At its zenith,
the great Omani seafaring empire controlled all trade routes to
Africa and India, with Zanzibar just one of its frontier outposts.
Considering that in 1955 this country was still a medieval Islamic state shuttered
against all 20th century progress under the aegis of its traditionalist and autocratic
ruler, it’s hard to believe it is only a few hours’ drive from the bustling epitome of
urban chic — Dubai. While Oman has changed a lot since the ’50s with the introduction
of city-planning, an excellent network of paved roads, and the advent of 5-
star resort hotels, much of it remained unchanged. This is an ideal destination for
those looking for a more authentic Arabian experience.
Our journey began in the northern Musandam Peninsula, a tiny piece of Oman that
is cut off from the rest of the country and surrounded by the UAE and the sea. Often
likened to the Norwegian fjords because of its steep, razor-sharp cliffs that jut down
to the sea, this desolate but spectacular region is an easy 2.5-hour drive from Dubai
or 4 hours to Muscat, the capital city of Oman. Private helicopter transfers from
Dubai are also available — just 30 minutes’ flight time. Our destination was the Six
Senses Hideaway at Zighy Bay opened in January 2008. Set between dramatic
mountains to the rear and a mile-wide sandy beach in front, guests choose from
one of three unforgettable arrival experiences: a scenic 15-minute speedboat trip, a
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