EJ Latitudes 1/08.qxd - Frontiers Elegant Journeys

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”The smell and taste
Top Tables
By Kirsten Gardner
of things remain
poised a long time,
ready to remind us . . .
the immense edifice
of memory.”
— Marcel Proust
IF YOU AGREE WITH THE ABOVE REFLECTION,
THEN PERHAPS IT IS NOT A STRETCH TO UNDER-
STAND WHY DINING ABROAD IS ONE OF THE
MOST ANTICIPATED AND MEMORABLE FACETS OF
AN EXCEPTIONAL TRIP FOR MANY TRAVELERS.
Even today, the aroma of seared duck carries my
thoughts to St. Martin and specifically the best meal
of my life to date, enjoyed in 2003 at the lovely Le
Chanteclair along the Marigot Marina Royale. The
food was divine (see review for gastronomic details),
but the coral-streaked dusk, the white fishing boats
bobbing in the harbor, and the festive company are
all equally conjured in my mind today through the
slightest olfactory detection of sizzling duck.
Here at Frontiers, members of our experienced staff (many of
whom are self-professed foodies!) travel annually to the global
destinations they represent to stay current. Though our travel is
often a whirlwind of inspecting hotels and meeting with general
managers and local tour operators, we get to have a little fun too;
we wine, we dine, and we’re happy to give you our two cents
worth! While some of the entries in our personally inspected collection
of international eateries might not get the nod from
Michelin or James Beard, either the location, the ambience, the
cast of characters, or the local flavor merits a meal. We hope you’ll
keep these Frontiers picks for Top Tables in mind the next time
your travels take you to any of the following locations. Enjoy!
Europe
Amsterdam, The Netherlands — Tucked into the Jordaan neighborhood,
Bordewijk serves French cuisine splashed with Asian
and Mediterranean influences to create an elegant fusion of flavors.
A Thursday night visit in November revealed cozy tables and a
lively crowd, as the dining room was filled to capacity, mostly with
locals, and punctuated by the young head chef, who strolled
between tables checking on all of his guests. The Bresse-style wild
pigeon was absolutely delicious as was the organic rack of Duroc
pig. Make reservations for a summer weekend and dine alfresco
on the canal-side patio. Recommended by Linda Rumburg
Paris, France — During
my early October visit to
the tiny, eclectic, and ohso-Parisian
dining room
of La Pétrelle, the other
tables clearly were occupied
by the buyers who
flock to the city at this
time for the spring collections.
The word is out on
the “jungle drums” so
make your reservation
fast if you’re going to the Jill with Jean-Luc
City of Light. The deluxe
flea-market décor is as interesting as the fantastic cuisine created
by owner Jean-Luc André, whose hallmark is imaginative use of
fresh French herbs and inspired taste combinations that send the
lucky diners to heaven. Recommended by Jill Jergel
Tivoli, Italy -- With age-old wisteria shading you from the sun,
lunch at Ristorante Sibilla is a refreshing pause in a day spent
touring the ruins of Tivoli. The lovely terrace has a view worth traveling
for: the Temples of Vesta and Sibyl, the Villa Gregoriana and
the famous Tivoli waterfalls. Traditional Romanesque cuisine (with
special kudos to their grilled offerings — such as veal and rosemary
potatoes — and superb hospitality nicely complement the stunning
vistas. Recommended by Colleen Wiley
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