EJ Latitudes 1/08.qxd - Frontiers Elegant Journeys

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Call <strong>Frontiers</strong> 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0) 1285 741340 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com Beyond Beijing A Return to China ON THIS TRIP, I WENT BEYOND THE USUAL ASPECTS OF A “CHINA 101” CIRCUIT TO THE YUNNAN PROVINCE. MY JOURNEY BEGAN IN BEIJING AND IT WAS FUN TO SEE THE CITY IN SPIT-AND-POLISH READINESS FOR THE OLYMPIC GAMES. I flew via Chengdu, home of the Panda Breeding Research Center where they offer “panda hugging” — you actually hold and cuddle a young panda. Here you see rural China with lovely parks and tea houses and feel you are experiencing life as the Chinese do, at least those that do not live in the big cities. Chengdu also has an “English” corner where Chinese gather to perfect their English skills by conversing with travelers. A great evening’s entertainment is visiting a tea house to see a special performance called a “facechanging” show as the actors change their face masks and costumes instantly on stage. I continued to Lijiang, my favorite place, and my favorite hotel in all of China, Banyan Tree Lijiang. It is an absolutely lovely hotel in a stunning setting and the villa accommodations are warm, inviting and romantic with a walled courtyard that includes either a private Jacuzzi or pool. Lijiang is inhabited mostly by the Naxi, one China’s 55 ethnic minority groups. This is the best preserved ancient town in China and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. The Old Town is a great place to wander through the hutongs and market, but make sure you have a guide because you can easily get lost. Outside of town, the natural beauty of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain provides an amazing backdrop to the Black Dragon Pond, all within a beautiful park where you can roam and enjoy. An all-day drive along the Yangtze took me to Ringha, still in the Yunnan Province but called the Autonomous Region of Tibet. Tiger Leaping Gorge is a worthwhile stop to stretch your legs as you descend hundreds of steps amidst breathtaking scenery to the Golden Sands River, which is very narrow and wild at this point — an awesome sight! Just remember you have to ascend those steps or, if too tired, there are sedan chairs and, for a small fee, someone will carry you up. For those seeking a bit more adventure, you can spend time hiking at the gorge. My destination in Ringha was another wonderful Banyan Tree Hotel. This special property consists of traditional Tibetan farmhouses with intricate woodcarvings, fireplaces and wooden balconies that have valley or river views. You are met with a steaming cup of ginger tea to help combat the effects of elevation (11,480 feet), and feel as though you are above the clouds at the top of the world. I especially enjoyed my morning cup of tea sitting on my balcony watching the day break as the mist and clouds rolled in and out. Ringha has been designated as the true Shangri La by the Chinese government but technically it is part of Tibet. Don’t miss Songzanlin Monastery — one of the wealthiest in China. As you climb the stairs (very slowly) to the top, there is the most incredible view of Ringha. The land is dotted with stupas and prayer flags wave in the breeze. I wandered into the local village at the base of the monastery. What a contrast between the stark simplicity of the village and the 44
Tiger Leaping Gorge ornate, gold-leaf monastery. My guide took me to another more humble monastery, where I climbed prayer wheel-lined steps and, when I reached the top, again saw prayer flags in all directions. This is the best way to experience life in China outside the major cities, where commerce and tourism have truly tempered the culture. If you have never visited China, adding some time in Yunnan Province will give you such a greater insight into Chinese culture. If you have been there before, the Yunnan Province merits a return trip. Meredith McNaugher 45
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