EJ Latitudes 1/08.qxd - Frontiers Elegant Journeys
EJ Latitudes 1/08.qxd - Frontiers Elegant Journeys
EJ Latitudes 1/08.qxd - Frontiers Elegant Journeys
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The Loggia at<br />
Villa San Michele<br />
Florence, Italy — In the<br />
heart of Florence’s trendy<br />
shopping area, Cantinetta<br />
dei Verrazzano — part<br />
bustling bakery, part<br />
restaurant — is a little gem<br />
with just six or seven<br />
tables. It was recommended by Luca Finardi, the GM of Villa San<br />
Michele, and may just be the most perfect lunch spot on the<br />
planet. We liked it so much that we went back every day. Let your<br />
waiter order for you and don’t miss out on the house specialty for<br />
dessert — pecorino cheese on dense dark bread with orange zest,<br />
fresh grated pepper and drizzled with honey . . . divine!<br />
Ricardo Caloffi<br />
Also around Florence, the sun-dried tomatoes<br />
at the Villa San Michele in Fiesole are the<br />
best in all of Italy, and if you ask nicely, my<br />
favorite barman, Ricardo, just might pack some<br />
up to send home with you. Recommended by<br />
Mollie Fitzgerald<br />
Bilbao, Spain — A complete surprise on a visit in November was<br />
lunch at the Guggenheim Museum Restaurant, which has a separate<br />
entrance to welcome diners not interested in visiting the<br />
museum. Under the tutelage of Manager Martin Berasategui<br />
(owner of three Michelin stars), some of the best Basque chefs<br />
prepare meals, including two tasting menus — all offered at a reasonable<br />
price. You can enjoy an environment consistent with the<br />
museum’s avant-garde design: high ceilings, hardwood, large windows<br />
and stunning views over the river and the University of<br />
Deusto. Try it for lunch — our experience is that it isn’t overly<br />
touristy. Recommended by Meredith McNaugher<br />
Granada, Spain — Whet your appetite at the Alhambra and then<br />
refresh and head to Cunini for the freshest fish and shellfish<br />
shipped daily from Northern Spain. Dine outside in the canvasand-gauze-swathed<br />
pavilion, where potted flowers and cleverly<br />
concealed misters help cut the Andalucian heat. The sea bass<br />
Cunini style is to die for, delicately poached in a savory lemon<br />
cream sauce, but the menu touts close to 100 items and you can’t<br />
go wrong ordering off the raw bar. Inside there’s a long marble bar<br />
crowded with friendly locals and affable barmen who were nice<br />
enough to introduce us to barnacles, a bit like a snail, with a briny<br />
aftertaste! Recommended by Kirsten Gardner<br />
Lisbon, Portugal — Sunday nights can be a challenge in Lisbon<br />
with many of their top tables closed; at the suggestion of the Lapa<br />
Palace concierge, we tried Espaco Lisboa and were genuinely<br />
pleased with the rural tavern-style atmosphere, the attentive service,<br />
and the copious and delicious menu! A great stop for carnivores<br />
— we started with a lovely creamy local cheese called Queijo<br />
de Azeitao, that melted in your mouth on homemade bread, followed<br />
by garlic prawns, suckling pig and tiny little lamb chops.<br />
Recommended by Mollie Fitzgerald<br />
St. Petersburg, Russia — There are many upscale and casual dining<br />
options including quite a variety of ethnic restaurants in St.<br />
Petersburg. During my recent trip, I enjoyed having dinner at<br />
Khutor Vodograi, a casual Ukrainian restaurant. Designed as a traditional<br />
peasant homestead, it features excellent home-style<br />
Ukrainian cuisine and typical beverages such as gorilka (homemade<br />
vodka). I particularly enjoyed vareniki (cottage cheese<br />
dumplings), Ukrainian borsch (beat and cabbage soup) served<br />
with pompushki (hot rolls) and buckwheat pancake pie. Service is<br />
prompt and staff dressed in colorful national costumes speak<br />
English and offer advice on an extensive menu selection. Cheerful<br />
Ukrainian music complements the scene. Recommended by<br />
Natasha Tichy<br />
Kobarid, Slovenia — In a tiny alpine town above the Socˇa River<br />
Valley, the family-run Topli Val (Warm Wave in English) attracts<br />
locals, tourists and anglers from all over Europe with incredibly<br />
fresh yet simple seafood dishes and accommodating service. On a<br />
recent visit, I enjoyed oysters from Cancale, lobster truffle pasta,<br />
and an inspired roulade of local trout and wilted greens with a<br />
drizzling of fennel<br />
cream. Peoplewatching<br />
from the<br />
covered veranda is<br />
a true delight during<br />
warmer months.<br />
Ask Aleš Hvala,<br />
owner and manager<br />
of the restaurant<br />
and the adjacent<br />
Hotel Hvala, to recommend<br />
a local<br />
wine to complement one of the best dining experiences in<br />
Slovenia (Šcˇurek from the Brda region is a personal favorite!).<br />
Recommended by Kirsten Gardner<br />
(Continued on next page)<br />
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