The Geography of Bliss

week, people become happier and more grateful,”
concluded the researchers.
Neuroscientists, meanwhile, believe they have located
the part of the brain linked with altruism. To their surprise, it
turns out to be a more primitive part of the brain than initially
suspected—the same part associated with our cravings for
food and sex. That suggests that we are hardwired for
altruism and not just faking it.
“Nothing is funnier than unhappiness,” says Nell, the legless
trash-can dweller in Samuel Beckett’s one-act play
Endgame. Beckett never visited Moldova, I bet. I see no
humor here, not even the unintentional variety. The
Moldovans, though, do have at least one joke. It explains a
lot about Moldova.
A visiting dignitary is being given a tour of hell. “Over
here,” says the tour guide, “is our room reserved for
Americans.” Flames shoot up from a boiling-hot cauldron,
while scores of armed guards keep a careful eye on their
captives. “And over here is the room for the Russians.”
More flames and another cauldron, though fewer guards.
“And over here is the room for the Moldovans.” Another
cauldron, more flames. But this time there are no guards at
all.
“I don’t understand,” says the visitor. “Why are there no
guards watching the Moldovans”
“Oh, that’s not necessary,” replies the tour guide. “If one