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travel Lasting Impressions After a while I started looking for more on my own. Fire urchins often hide tiny zebra crabs in their spines. They in turn are often carried along the bottom on the backs of carrier crabs. Delicate porcelain crabs may be found in the same anemones as clownfishes. Slipper lobsters roam the sand at night on long, spindly legs. The giant among Lembeh nudibranchs is the solar power nudie, nearly a foot long, with fleshy lobes all along its body. One of my favorite sites from the earlier trip was the police pier. Among the rubble, there were hundreds of the beautiful Bangaii cardinalfishes, hanging out among sea urchins, anemones and old tires. Unfortunately, the pier is now actively used by big boats, so diving underneath and around it is forbidden. However, we did make a dive about 50 yards away, where we encountered a white mantis shrimp. I’d seen all sorts of colorful mantis shrimps but this was the first white one. I suspect it’s a regular stop on the police pier tour. By the end of two weeks, the only critter missing on my to-do list was the blue ringed octopus. But that’s a good thing, because it’s a strong incentive to return—as if I needed an excuse. ■ FACT FILE Sulawesi Getting there From Singapore, Silk Air, a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines, has regular flights to Manado. Most resorts will pick you up at the airport by van. Rides to the resort range from one to two hours. Passport A current passport with 6 months remaining is required. A 30 day visa is $US25, payable at the immigration counter in US dollars or rupiah. Airport departure tax is 100,000 rupiah, payable in rupiah. (Don’t panic, see next paragraph.) Currency One euro is equivalent to 11,811 Indonesian Rupiah Credit cards are accepted in almost all tourist facilities. ATMs are located in most towns. Language Bahasa Indonesian. English and Japanese is widely spoken in tourist facilities. Electricity 230 volts, European and/or British plugs CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Squat lobster on nudibranch; Juvenile bangail cardinalfish in pink anemone; Close-up portrait of a pipefish Climate Tropical humid. December through April is the rainy season, but diving is good all year round. Water temperatures range from 26 to 28 degrees Celsius (78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit). A 3mm wet suit will be sufficient for most divers. Tourist facilities Those catering to American/European clientele offer a wide range of amenities including Nitrox, wifi, satellite television, spa and massages, and land excursions. Websites Cocotinos Cocotinos-manado.com Kasawari Kasawari-lembeh.com Thanks to Cocotinos and Kasawari resorts for their help in preparing this article. 48 X-RAY MAG : 38 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED
North Indonesia Sulawesi Text by Don Silcock Photos by Eric Hanauer and Don Silcock The island of Sulawesi lies like a large broken star in the middle of the vast archipelago that forms the country of Indonesia. It’s remote location, roughly a third of the way between the huge islands of Borneo to the west, and New Guinea to the east, places Sulawesi right in amongst what is generally considered to be the richest marine environment in the world — the Coral Triangle. 49 X-RAY MAG : 38 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED eric hanauer
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