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The Spirit of Place Expeditions<br />

Professor Stanley Ira Hallet, FAIA<br />

Former Dean of the School of Architecture and Planning<br />

The Catholic University of America<br />

Washington, D.C.<br />

The Spirit of Place<br />

Fifteen years ago, an architect named Travis<br />

Price approached me with a most interesting<br />

proposal. Having recently arrived from the<br />

University of Utah to head the then Department of<br />

Architecture at The Catholic University of America<br />

in Washington, D.C., I was determined to redirect<br />

a program considered by many of my colleagues to<br />

be lacking in energy, vision and commitment. My<br />

own interests in education were diverse: I had, as an<br />

architect, Peace Corps Volunteer, Fulbright Scholar<br />

and husband to a documentary filmmaker, an eclectic<br />

background in anthropology, traditional architecture,<br />

filmmaking and theory.<br />

Although responsible for the never-ending management<br />

and fund-raising activities required of today’s<br />

higher academies of learning, from early on I also<br />

developed and taught studios and support courses<br />

exploring cultural issues, focusing on the inevitable<br />

need to interven e architecturally within cultures of<br />

great diversity. Within these explorations, the studios<br />

often addressed three over-riding themes: the found<br />

landscape as an underlying definer of both the agricultural<br />

environment and gardens of reflection and<br />

retreat, the continued history of human settlement<br />

within the fabric of the built and grown environment,<br />

and, finally, the making of sacred space. Further<br />

complicating these was the issue that these once<br />

well defined cultures were undergoing transformations<br />

that threatened traditionally historic responses,<br />

resulting in the often dysfunctional conditions that<br />

characterize many of today’s modern habitats. Given<br />

these conditions, how are we, architects of the<br />

twenty-first century, going to intervene How will we<br />

propose architectural, landscape, or urban interventions<br />

that acknowledge a long history of cultural<br />

place-making, at the same time reflecting our own<br />

time and our global perspective, often the roots of<br />

the very problems traditional cultures are struggling<br />

with in their attempts to redefine themselves<br />

I was also convinced that the school needed to<br />

revisit the physical reality of building, the recognition<br />

of new materials, and the many ways of assembling<br />

them. This was leading our efforts in model making,<br />

furniture design and the construction of modest but<br />

full-scale design/build projects. Gather all of these<br />

interests in the context of a Catholic university dedicated<br />

to exploring the moral problems associated<br />

with the sacred as well as the profane, and we were<br />

now ready to consider the arguments and programs<br />

passionately advocated by Travis Price.<br />

❖ ❖ ❖<br />

In the summer of 1992, Travis proposed taking<br />

ten to fifteen architecture students to the far reaches<br />

of our continent to design and build interventions<br />

within well-defined landscapes, sites that reflected<br />

equally a long history of working and reworking both<br />

the profane and sacred. Called “The Spirit of Place,”<br />

these workshops in the field encompassed focused<br />

studies of a place and its inhabitants as well as<br />

exploring the deep belief systems, myths, and stories<br />

that defined them. The preliminary cultural studies<br />

performed in school were intense, and the student<br />

building proposals reflected the issues uncovered.<br />

They also responded to the practicalities of building<br />

on remote sites with little funding, limited resources,<br />

and relatively unskilled student labor, as well as the<br />

need to erect the interventions over a short period<br />

of construction, never more than ten days.<br />

Our students immediately took to Travis and<br />

his unabashed enthusiasm for the underlying myths<br />

associated with our planet’s cultural and physical<br />

landscapes. What unfolded was a fourteen-year<br />

history of interventions in cultural settings often<br />

completely foreign to the quotidian experiences of<br />

our predominantly East Coast undergraduates. The<br />

results formed a continuity of built work illustrating<br />

Travis’s core beliefs, and provided an experience that<br />

dramatically affected the lives of the hundreds of students<br />

who participated in the Spirit of Place projects.<br />

This, in turn, continued to inspire Travis’s own work.<br />

Whether built on the windy, rocky coasts of Ireland<br />

or floating in the middle of a jungle river filled with<br />

piranhas, the architectural constructs have become a<br />

living testament to the students’ endeavors, and continue<br />

to provide a laboratory testing the ideas deeply<br />

imbedded in Price’s architecture.<br />

Continually searching for connections to the site,<br />

Travis’s work raises age-old questions still associated<br />

with today’s tired and neglected landscapes. How<br />

will I sit on <strong>this</strong> unique piece of land and how will<br />

it inform me and those that follow me How will I<br />

respond to the constant companions of sun, rain and<br />

weather, the ever shifting patterns of day and night,<br />

the seasons with their hot and cold, the constant<br />

eroding of the soil and the plants, birds and animals<br />

they shelter How did man first inhabit these places<br />

How does each culture reshape them to respond<br />

to its own needs, its own beliefs and its own rituals<br />

of work, play and reflection Finally, how do we, as<br />

products of our own time and conditions, participate<br />

in <strong>this</strong> landscape today<br />

Travis continues to expand upon the work of his<br />

students, seeking an understanding and interpretation<br />

of place that embodies the timeless qualities of<br />

cultural history and fit. His work seeks to recognize<br />

the importance of cultural myth informing the very<br />

fiber of our bodies: it colors, shades and transforms<br />

how we perceive and find meaning in the world that<br />

surrounds us. His work builds upon and heightens<br />

<strong>this</strong> awareness, aspiring to define space that accommodates<br />

both the profane and the sacred, work<br />

and play, and, most important, our need for retreat<br />

and reflection. In so doing, he seeks an alternative<br />

position to both the post-modernists who appropriate<br />

the past in terms of its form and proportion and<br />

the deconstructionists who take apart the present to<br />

comment upon its dystopian condition. Travis is less<br />

interested in historic forms; he is more concerned<br />

with the forces that once shaped them. He avoids<br />

the copying of inherited façades, but instead explores<br />

the dark alleyways of the unresolved forces lurking<br />

behind them.<br />

❖ ❖ ❖<br />

Recognizing contemporary facts, he is very comfortable<br />

with the inventive use of modern materials<br />

and construction methods. Travis seems to infuse<br />

the final assembly of a building with a sense of place<br />

that permeates every component. He marries hard<br />

architectural fact with soft vegetal surroundings. Tree<br />

and wall co-exist. Materials rust while plants grow tall,<br />

only to fall to the ground when their time has come.<br />

Travis suggests an architecture that recognizes<br />

the complex interrelated histories of time and place.<br />

He learns from their stories, but then moves on. He<br />

champions these issues, retelling them with a new<br />

voice that is accommodating while at the same time<br />

courageous and inventive. The resulting work is of<br />

our time, expressive of the unresolved issues and<br />

conflicts that dominate our lives, yet providing space<br />

for repose, refection and respect. He offers a new<br />

perspective, a new alternative, a new vision for those<br />

of us obliged to intervene with our constructions.<br />

The urban and rural landscape, the architecture<br />

and gardens we make, are but the consequences of<br />

the cultural values that define them. Architecture is<br />

but the concretization of belief systems we hold so<br />

dearly. For better or worse, the resulting architectural<br />

environment reflects our condition and the historic<br />

battles waged to define it. The work of Travis Price<br />

in his practice and in the unique laboratories at The<br />

Catholic University of America is committed to<br />

improving these conditions by recognizing and understanding<br />

the potential of the past to inform, in new<br />

and inspiring ways, the environment of tomorrow.<br />

151<br />

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SUKHAVATI AND THE NAGAS…<br />

NEPAL, THE NAGA SHRINE<br />

My office was commissioned to design a large<br />

project in Nepal a few years back, an Ayurvedic<br />

yoga retreat. Half the owners were totally ready to<br />

embrace the philosophy of metaphorical modern industrialism;<br />

the other half still wanted the nostalgic<br />

past reproduced. The debate was so crucial that the<br />

mayor of Kathmandu convened his entire planning<br />

staff to discuss our one project as a vision for the<br />

sacred city’s growth aesthetic.<br />

Half of the investors came from a nostalgic, ex<br />

pat world, there to escape the industrial world and<br />

wanted to live in literal remakes of Nepali villages,<br />

but with electricity and toilets, cell phones, six servants<br />

and of course never-ending instant chai. They<br />

faced the classic question for any Eco resort today:<br />

how do we keep an authentic spirit but introduce<br />

high tech advantages Eco resorts, because they’re<br />

pricey, can afford to ask these questions. Why can’t<br />

that be the format for built environments everywhere<br />

You can live ecologically within a cool, hip,<br />

modern architecture that has different flavors and<br />

different sights and different cultures, all within a<br />

subdivision. The answer, we hear constantly, is that<br />

nobody has enough money and enough vision to<br />

take the risk to build them. The money is really the<br />

same, it’s the vision that’s missing.<br />

I took on a “Spirit of Place” expedition in Nepal<br />

in conjunction with designing the larger project.<br />

The site was at the base of Nagarjun Mountain; the<br />

theme was to design a meditation shrine dedicated<br />

to the Sukhavati (Place of Bliss ) & the Naga (Snakes<br />

of Knowledge).<br />

In nine days, we built a cantilevered platform<br />

over a hundred-foot drop, stretching out above a<br />

sea of cobras, leeches and nagas, where one could<br />

sublimely sit on a glass mandala held by a single<br />

steel beam. It wiggled as you stepped out and<br />

vibrated slowly as you sat down, finally diminishing<br />

its shaking as your own fears subsided and the inner<br />

voyage began.<br />

160<br />

161<br />

Above: Nepalis, Newaris, ex-pats, students, and teachers.<br />

Photograph by Chris Rainier. Opposite: Meditation over<br />

100-foot cliff on glass floor—Nagajune Mountain beyond.<br />

Photograph by Chris Rainier.<br />

EXPEDITIONS THROUGH THE THREE LENSES<br />

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BELMULLET<br />

158<br />

WIDENING THE THIN PLACE…<br />

During the design-and-build course for “Spirit of<br />

Place,” a simultaneous design studio project was<br />

also undertaken for a library and community center<br />

to be located in the village of Belmullet, County<br />

Mayo, again on the western coast of Ireland. The<br />

site is on a narrow canal, which splits off a large<br />

peninsula from Erris and the mainland. It is both a<br />

major demarcation and genus loci of the area, as<br />

well as a natural thin place. How to take the lyric<br />

of a single object in the landscape and make whole<br />

buildings was the heart of <strong>this</strong> project and the intent<br />

of the studio.<br />

One idea was to have the one building become<br />

two buildings on each side of the banks using curved<br />

glass facing each other. Each face is out over the<br />

river so that people in two opposite buildings are<br />

looking at each other, and the glass is cantilevered<br />

perhaps only a few feet apart. They could signal to<br />

each other but not touch. The two buildings then<br />

curve away. Just to have that moment in the public<br />

hallway on both sides, to have people walking back<br />

and forth and not being able to do anything other<br />

than communicate with body language, was a playful<br />

gesture about a thin place.<br />

Another design used a series of buildings in a<br />

running parallel formation broken into a series of<br />

functions: the library, the reading stacks, the reception<br />

area. Buildings where bridges—and stripes<br />

of thin places—run parallel to each other, parallel<br />

infinities divided by function.<br />

Another design idea was a series of undulating<br />

copper green tents reflecting on a single top as a<br />

moment of time constantly changing its position, as<br />

nature does. The concept was that as you moved<br />

along the buildings, the pinnacle point for each one<br />

changed its location so that you saw time marching<br />

along linearly, but at the same time, when you<br />

put them all together, you got a sense of time going<br />

back and forth. Aside from an image of undulating<br />

bogs, the design puts you into the thin place with its<br />

rhythmic, seesawing effect.<br />

All of these wonderful designs, simultaneously<br />

designed as a future 100,000-square-foot environmental<br />

center inspired by the “Thin Places,” prove<br />

unequivocally that large-scale modern architecture<br />

designed with the three lenses could simultaneously<br />

come from the landscape and capture the mythic.<br />

Top left: Model by Kimberly Johnson. Time depicted by<br />

changing moments or pinnacle peaks. Top right: Model by<br />

Natali Lomeli. Parallel buildings separated by thin places.<br />

Middle left: Model by Kimberly Johnson. Moving bog tents<br />

of copper in field of wind machines. Middle right: Sculpture<br />

model by Deborah Lerner. Rings of time moving forward<br />

and backward simultaneously. Left: Model by Natali Lomeli.<br />

Endless lines to infinity of time interrupted by hushed<br />

whispers. All photographs by Travis Price.<br />

159<br />

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THE THIN PLACES: DOONAMOE<br />

Simultaneously that year, we built another project.<br />

It too was a “t’in place,” the big brother of Anagh<br />

Head. The site was a large blowhole in the ground<br />

where the sea has eaten the land from underneath,<br />

about 100 feet below the surface. The sea<br />

had been continuously bashing the rock cliffs for<br />

many hundreds of centuries. It bored under the<br />

rocks and shot straight up, blowing a hole through<br />

the solid granite land mass. When the gale winds<br />

are coming and the 200 foot waves are hitting, it<br />

shoots a spout, like a whale’s, hundreds of feet up<br />

into the air.<br />

The astonishing magic of these two enormous<br />

projects—besides their mystical impact—<br />

was that we actually built them simultaneously<br />

in nine days flat-out. At Anagh Head, the land is<br />

pushing into the sea and at Doonamoe the sea is<br />

pushing into the land. You can see them one from<br />

another, four miles apart along the coast. The seesaw<br />

effect of land-eating-sea and sea-eating-land<br />

when viewed simultaneously was to experience<br />

the paradoxical nature of the thin places—extraordinarily<br />

magnified!<br />

We could just barely see each other working<br />

on a clear day. I was zooming back and forth with<br />

three cell phones, twenty-five students, twenty<br />

Irishmen, often getting lost in thick foggy patches.<br />

Hats off to the students and the local Irish<br />

craftsmen: they all did amazing things. Hats<br />

off to the philosophy they experienced during<br />

these grueling expeditions, in concert with their<br />

personal interpretations of Stillness, Movement<br />

and Nature: the structures have had an enormous<br />

impact on the local people, myself, the students<br />

and the quest for the Mythic Modernist language<br />

of architecture.<br />

156<br />

157<br />

Previous spread: Rainbow over beehive exploding to the<br />

sea at Anagh Head, Ireland. Photograph by Chris Rainier.<br />

Top: View from above of student model. Photograph<br />

by Travis Price. Above: Sunrise view with <strong>this</strong>tle of steel<br />

greeting wisps of clouds. Photograph by Chris Rainier.<br />

Opposite: 110-foot waves crashing against cliff edge;<br />

Equinox axis path to steel cage above the blowhole.<br />

Photograph by Eamon O’Boyle.<br />

EXPEDITIONS THROUGH THE THREE LENSES<br />

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THE THIN PLACES: ANAGH HEAD<br />

154<br />

One Spirit of Place student project, our ninth, was<br />

in Ireland, a stunning example of going to a site,<br />

looking at powerful environmental forces, being<br />

overwhelmed with a living metaphor and producing<br />

uncanny results in just nine non-stop days of<br />

rain-soaked construction. We built two projects<br />

simultaneously on the west coast, where the Irish<br />

are still absolutely mad. The rational world is always<br />

secondary there to the realms of poetry and living<br />

myths. Nearby is Yeats’ Donegal, Sligo and the<br />

magic of Galway. This is where Yeats and Joyce<br />

would retreat to from Dublin to find their inspiration;<br />

Crough Patrick pilgrimage mountain beckons<br />

nearby. This is where Patrick married the worship<br />

of the sun with the Son. This is where the poets<br />

escaped to, to find the deeper mythic soul of their<br />

Gaelic blood.<br />

One theme kept coming up as I walked around<br />

asking people about mystical lore. Of course every<br />

rock there has about ten tales attached to it so I<br />

got a bellyful and then some. The Irish are greatly<br />

beloved fibbers with endless exaggeration, and<br />

because they’re great liars they’re great storytellers,<br />

which in turn makes them phenomenal writers.<br />

They love to twist and turn, not to evade, but<br />

actually to delve into more complex meaning. They<br />

dance with the truth. So what seems like a contradiction<br />

or lies isn’t really so; it’s actually another way<br />

of seeing things. It’s where being in a paradoxical<br />

state is the norm. Such a view of reality exists in the<br />

landscape and the mind. In the landscape, such real<br />

locations are often referred to as the “thin places.”<br />

After hearing from many locals, I asked Seamus<br />

Caulfield, Ireland’s premier archeologist, “What is a<br />

thin place” In the pub, several people’s eyes lit up.<br />

He smiled, his eyes mystified and mischievous all at<br />

once. “Ah, the t’in places; I’ve encountered them.”<br />

(“T’in” with no “h” is the Irish pronunciation.) In<br />

Irish life they are the places where time past, future,<br />

and present merge. If you read a lot of poetry and<br />

mysticism from Rumi to T. S. Eliot, you hear tell of<br />

it—time past is part of time future, and time future<br />

is time past, and time now is encompassing all. The<br />

thin places are real places in the landscape, a matrix<br />

of moments where people find themselves falling<br />

into timelessness or eternity, the world of the<br />

greater mind, the Pleroma, the living collective unconscious;<br />

the world where things outlive the physical.<br />

That’s where the fairies and the banshees and<br />

the leprechauns and the gods all live; however, it’s<br />

not a simple metaphysical suburb. To actually come<br />

upon a vortex in the landscape that can physically<br />

make that happen was exciting to no end. I spent<br />

a whole week traipsing up and down County Mayo<br />

to find a site that felt like that. Lost in the bog and<br />

rain, it seemed hopeless until Anne and Lawrence<br />

Howard—sheep farmers, sculpture aficionados,<br />

and enduring friends—steered me to a remote<br />

peninsula towards sunset one day. Anagh Head, an<br />

exotic rock peninsula, had me in one instant; I knew<br />

it. My legs turned to Jell-O. Something was going on<br />

there. I didn’t know what it was, but I was at ease in<br />

a thin place at last. The same feeling occurred a few<br />

miles away and a few days later at Doonamoe, an<br />

enormous blowhole.<br />

These two design-build expeditions involved<br />

choosing twenty-five students. For a semester we<br />

explored what a thin place is and how could it be<br />

expressed in architectural form—other than two<br />

thin walls that one can’t get through. Then, for two<br />

weeks, we went to the coast of Ireland and actually<br />

built them both simultaneously! We explored the<br />

landscape, and began to realize that where the moss<br />

actually stops growing, where the bog and the rocks<br />

touch, there’s a thing called the Tír Sáile—where<br />

the earth and the salted air meet; in Gaelic, Tír<br />

being the earth, and Sáile being the salted air. Salty<br />

air kills organic matter such as coastal moss; the<br />

moss then dies and new moss grows on top of the<br />

dead on and on for centuries, thus creating a bog,<br />

a bouncy covering two to ten feet thick. It has<br />

covered entire villages, such as the Ceide Fields, for<br />

over 5,500 years. Seamus calls it a slow-motion lava.<br />

Anagh Head is a huge landmass, where the rock<br />

is actually a rocky prow tearing into the ocean,<br />

fighting it constantly. The sea coughs stones and<br />

boulders hundreds of feet in the air back at the<br />

land. So you know you’re not going to build in the<br />

range of fire of the boulders, but right at the line<br />

where the storms can’t reach, right where the rocks<br />

end and the bog begins: there is a thin place. The<br />

wave mass coming from the ocean is two hundred<br />

feet deep. The island of Ireland is thick at the edge.<br />

Deep in nature, booming in your subconscious, you<br />

find the magical thin place of eons of rocking sea<br />

against rock.<br />

On the Anagh Head site we built a hemi-beehive,<br />

a classic way of creating a monk’s retreat in<br />

stone, and then we exploded out to the sea with<br />

accelerating steel arches amplifying the moment you<br />

walked into that little thin place. You are at once<br />

centered and catapulted by the sea’s edge.<br />

The day I got there to explore for sites (a year<br />

before we built the projects), tragically, two local<br />

children drowned at sea. My children were with me,<br />

which amplified the sadness even more. The next<br />

year, when we were building the project, those children’s<br />

families all came along with everybody else<br />

to celebrate its completion. It was an overwhelming<br />

moment of sadness and release. The spirit of the<br />

architecture resonated again. Father Kevin, more<br />

a mystical-environmental Gandalf than a priest,<br />

dedicated the project to those lost at sea.<br />

People came from all over; they came to stand<br />

at a sanctuary outside their churches. For some<br />

it was exhilarating to see the celebrations of the<br />

sea, for others who had lost loved ones, it was a<br />

sad remembrance: the landscape is so much a state<br />

of mind. In combination, sadness and joy shared<br />

a mystical resonance with the sea and the land; a<br />

thin place enveloped them. Sitting there, you engulf<br />

the great sea, submitting to a wondrous sense of<br />

rest and resolution. The back-and-forth motion of<br />

the tides erases time’s slow acceleration into the<br />

eternal rocks.<br />

Top: Travis Price in County Mayo with Peter Hynes,<br />

Architect—Key Maestro for Spirit of Place in Ireland. Photograph<br />

by Jose Benitez. Above: Approaching the Anagh Head<br />

Spirit of Place—The thin place between steel and stone<br />

bog. Photograph by Travis Price. Opposite: 110-foot gorge<br />

at Doonamoe looking over the Irish Sea toward Boston.<br />

Photograph by Kenneth M. Wyner.<br />

“THE EARLY CELTS BELIEVED IN ‘THIN PLACES’: GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATIONS SCATTERED<br />

THROUGHOUT IRELAND AND THE BRITISH ISLES WHERE A PERSON EXPERIENCES ONLY A<br />

VERY THIN DIVIDE BETWEEN PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE TIMES; PLACES WHERE A PERSON IS<br />

SOMEHOW ABLE, POSSIBLY ONLY FOR A MOMENT, TO ENCOUNTER A MORE ANCIENT REALITY<br />

WITHIN PRESENT TIME; OR PLACES WHERE PERHAPS ONLY IN A GLANCE WE ARE SOMEHOW<br />

TRANSPORTED INTO THE FUTURE. SOME OF THE STORIES HERE THAT ASSOCIATE THE SAINTS<br />

WITH INTUITIVE AND PSYCHIC POWERS ATTEST TO THESE ‘THIN PLACES.’”<br />

—EDWARD SELLNER, WISDOM OF THE CELTIC SAINTS<br />

155<br />

EXPEDITIONS THROUGH THE THREE LENSES<br />

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8/10/06 4:12:39 PM


152<br />

Epiphany at Lake Ealue:<br />

the Spirit of Place<br />

A<br />

spiritual watershed for me in my professional<br />

and academic life was an epiphany<br />

that came at Lake Ealue in northern British<br />

Columbia, about sixteen years ago. It ultimately<br />

led to the development of a series of design/build<br />

expeditions, thirteen thus far, titled the “Spirit of<br />

Place.” In them I found clarity for the final lens,<br />

Stillness, and coalesced my greater search for the<br />

Mythic Modern.<br />

It was then that I met a genius who has since<br />

become one of my best friends and mentors, Wade<br />

Davis, an anthropologist, writer, and the Explorerin-Residence<br />

at the National Geographic Society.<br />

I had known his wife, Gail Percy, for years. One<br />

evening Wade and I shared dinner at a Japanese<br />

modernist house I had designed in Georgetown<br />

for Catherine Mellon. We talked almost until dawn<br />

about anthropology, mysticism, architecture and the<br />

mysteries of cultures. He said, “You’ve got to come<br />

up and visit my spiritual lair at Lake Ealue so we can<br />

continue <strong>this</strong> rap. Bring your children as well.” I did.<br />

It changed my life.<br />

Getting there is in itself no simple expedition.<br />

Lake Ealue is about 1,200 miles north of Vancouver,<br />

four or five days up a long logging road. The first<br />

time I went—with my children—we went halfway<br />

by plane, flying over a thousand glaciers or so,<br />

landed, took the luggage out of the aisle with the<br />

pilot helping us, got the only rental vehicle in the<br />

last township before Ealue and headed north 300<br />

more miles. On the drive, I lost a windshield and a<br />

gas tank from rocks; after patching the tank with<br />

liquid filler and filling it up at a gas station for logging<br />

trucks, we arrived by the skin of our teeth at the<br />

middle of nowhere, just short of the Yukon border.<br />

Our first human contact was when Wade<br />

introduced us to Alec Jack, a 98 year old Indian<br />

chief, and his wife, who was 102. He had not seen a<br />

non nomadic person until he was 25. Being around<br />

Wade and Jack was like living in a whole other,<br />

mythological world; to be immersed with ecumenically<br />

minded mates in the wilderness was manna<br />

from heaven. Wade serves it up in quantum gulps.<br />

Up at Ealue, the connections between modern architecture,<br />

nature, and mythology looped back into<br />

my worldview as if being in New Mexico pueblos<br />

fifteen years ago was only fifteen minutes away.<br />

Wade and I became great buddies, because we both<br />

really enjoyed making things, cutting firewood, hiking<br />

and camping, and at the same time having voracious<br />

intellectual discussions about the mythological<br />

world. Wade loved building, but hadn’t delved much<br />

into modern architecture yet, but he smelled delight<br />

in my design flights right away.<br />

There was a pile of about fifty logs sitting<br />

there, which I couldn’t help noticing on the way to<br />

the outhouse and the sauna. I immediately started<br />

building a giant split-pyramid marker, a glorious<br />

processional on the way to the sauna. Glaciers<br />

were all around; the water was freezing. Your balls<br />

retract just staring at the lake, but you go in anyway.<br />

Fishing is resplendent. Your mind is free. You’re<br />

finally disconnected completely. There are no cell<br />

phones, no way out. If you break your leg and it’s<br />

cloudy, which it can be for days, the floatplane can’t<br />

find you. It’s scary, especially when you have kids in<br />

tow, but invigorating, the fresh air that comes with<br />

fear and risk is forever intoxicating. You’re in the<br />

mythical world all the time. You’re around people<br />

that immediately understand what you’re talking<br />

about. In fact, they’re more interested in how you<br />

say your poetry than whether science is alive. The<br />

same is true of their spirits and the landscape. The<br />

native spirits are alive. The gods are now, heaven<br />

is now—it’s not on its way—and spirit worlds are<br />

wide open.<br />

One day Wade and I were just sitting on the<br />

dock, having a beer and catching fish. The conversation<br />

turned to why don’t we do some more of<br />

<strong>this</strong> Let’s create something up here. The winter<br />

before, their best friend had fallen through the<br />

ice in his traps and died, so they had been somewhat<br />

depressed, not wanting to come back ever<br />

again. But the idea of creative building brought a<br />

breath of oxygen: “Let’s do it” was inescapably<br />

in the air. I thought <strong>this</strong> also would make a great<br />

course for students at Catholic University’s School<br />

of Architecture (CUArch), where I had taught<br />

design studios and Green architecture classes for<br />

several years. Stanley Hallet, the dean, was joyously<br />

enthusiastic. We would introduce Green design to<br />

cultural metaphors in distant landscapes and teach<br />

students to build with their hands under strenuous<br />

conditions—what better way to teach<br />

Later, Wade gave a talk at Catholic University<br />

in D.C., proposing an expedition to return to Lake<br />

Ealue and create “something.” We thought we’d<br />

get three or four students if we were lucky, but<br />

when Wade gets up on stage, it’s like being at a<br />

mythological rock concert. You come out of there<br />

transformed; he is a genuine shaman. I had a reputation<br />

as the “wild man” practicing architect, which<br />

whetted their appetites as well. What a team we<br />

made. The idea thundered across the entire student<br />

body, and more than 130 students signed up for<br />

the course. It took us longer to figure out how to<br />

diminish the size to a manageable nine than how to<br />

get the whole project designed.<br />

This turned out to be the first of a number<br />

of amazing expeditions, which have gone on for<br />

fourteen years. We’ve gone to Nepal, Peru, Machu<br />

Picchu, Sicily, recently to western Ireland; Mongolia<br />

bodes next. There are billboards now to take you<br />

to our projects, which have become eco tourist<br />

cultural attractions and locations for symposiums.<br />

“Spirit of Place” has transformed into a master’s<br />

degree concentration: the studio is guiding a new<br />

language of architecture pursued in the schools,<br />

finding the mythic and interpreting it into modern<br />

architecture. It is somewhat akin to Sam Mockbee’s<br />

Rural Studio, but on a more global scale.<br />

I had started designing my hypothetical cabin<br />

design during my third year up at Lake Ealue, which<br />

was when the idea of the lenses first jelled. At<br />

that time, I called them “Sunshine, Highways and<br />

Temples.” My intellectual path had finally cleared.<br />

Where I was growing became where I was going.<br />

Stillness, Movement and Nature had been launched.<br />

Above: View from Wade Davis studio to greenhouse<br />

library. Photograph by Kenneth M. Wyner.<br />

Opposite: Lake Ealue, British Columbia.<br />

Photograph by Travis Price.<br />

153<br />

EXPEDITIONS THROUGH THE THREE LENSES<br />

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162<br />

“AS LORD VISHNU FLOATS ON A SEA OF SNAKES SEETHING IN TIME’S IMMORTAL PLAY-<br />

ROOM, THE ALL-SEEING GOD PROVOKES US INTO THE MANDALA DANCE OF KNOW-<br />

ING THAT WE DON’T KNOW. EZEKIEL’S VISION OF THE ALL-SEEING EYES OF GOD<br />

ROTATING IN THE FOURTH DIMENSION OF TIME ENVELOPES US IN A PIERCING CLOUD<br />

OF PEACE.<br />

WHEN NEVER ASKED WHAT GOD IS, WE KNOW THE ANSWER; WHENEVER ASKED<br />

WHAT GOD IS, WE DON’T KNOW. WHAT IS THE TEMPTATION OF THOUGHT AND<br />

ITS FIRST IMMERSION IN TIME WHAT IS THE STRUGGLE BETWEEN GOOD AND EVIL,<br />

KNOWING AND NOT KNOWING NIRVANA IS A BATH IN THE PEACE OF THE WOMB.<br />

WHILE MYTHS ARE OUR PUBLIC DREAMS, DREAMS ARE OUR PRIVATE MYTHS. FIND<br />

YOUR MYTHS AND DREAMS; THEY WILL TAKE YOU ALONG YOUR TRUTHFUL PATH.<br />

THE GODS ARE WITHIN US; THEY ARE THE GUIDES NOT ONLY FROM THE PAST, BUT<br />

ARE PRESENT IN YOU NOW. WHERE DOES THE FUTURE COME FROM, AND IN WHAT<br />

FORMS DOES IT COME A SNAKE SHEDS ITS SKIN FOR REBIRTH, A LION TRIUMPHS IN<br />

THE SUN, A SNAKE IS OUR PROTECTOR IN THE WOMB. UNDER THE SUN AND THE<br />

MOON, TIME CREATES OPPOSITES, OUT OF THE GARDEN OF OUR INNOCENT UNITY,<br />

KNOWLEDGE BRINGS OPPOSITES AND THE PARADOX OF WISDOM.”<br />

163<br />

– TRAVIS PRICE, NEPAL, 2001<br />

EXPEDITIONS THROUGH THE THREE LENSES<br />

Above: Three Tibetan monks at Boudhanath Temple;<br />

Katamandu, Nepal. Photograph by Chris Rainier.<br />

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8/10/06 4:13:10 PM

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