Summer 2010 - The Alpine Club of Canada

Dolomites trek a memorable journey
by Graham Noble
It’s not about the destination, just the
journey.
With that guideline in mind, the
“Noble Nomads”, including members of
the Alpine Club of Canada and Achille
Ratti started out on the 130-kilometre
Alte Vie 1 trail at the beautiful Lago di
Braies (1494 metres) in the shadow of
Croda del Becco (2810 metres).
The initial section wound gently
through wooded terrain, a blessing for
those unused to hauling a backpack, but
the respite was temporary as the path
stiffened to climb towards Prato Piazza.
Forest gave way to a barren rock-strewn
valley before we reached the shrine at
Porta Sora’l Forn (2388 metres). After a
quick tea break at Rifugio Biella (2300
metres), we welcomed the downhill
stroll to Rifugio Sennes, our first night’s
accommodation. As we would experience
throughout our journey, rifguio staff provided
a warm welcome. Whether private,
or run by the Club Alpino Italiano, these
facilities offered comfortable accommodation
and hearty meals.
With improved September weather,
day two delivered a typical Dolomite’s
trek with a downhill meander serving
as a warm up to the inevitable climb.
Although the AV1 trail remained between
2000 and 25000 metres, most days
brought one or two “bumps in the road.”
The trail, however, offered tremendous
variety with steep meandering climbs,
both gentle and rugged traverses either
under cliffs or tightly clutching the tops
of them, and providing fabulous views
of mountains ahead or valleys way below
that made the climbs well worth the
effort. Frequent way marks were easily
identified but guidebook and maps were
necessary.
The following days took us through
the well-trodden but beautiful Parco
Naturale Fanes-Senes-Braies to Rifugios
Scotoni and Dibona. Along the way, we
climbed through Forcella Del Lago’s
narrow passage and our highest point
thus far, 2486 metres, then dropped
steeply but not before we caught sight
of the Lagazuoi ridge in the distance.
The following day we climbed towards
Cinque Torri and Nuvolau before crossing
Passo Giau, even encountering real
mules on the mule trail (who would have
thought), as we rounded Croda De Lago
to Rifguio Palmieri.
With no sleeping in on Sunday
morning, we head towards the magnificent
Monte Pelmo (3168 metres). With
Rifugio Venezia closed, we were excused
the climb to 2476-metre Forcella Val
D’Arcia, and instead headed downhill via
Citta di Fiume to spend a pleasant evening
at Rifugio Staulanza (1766 metres).
If there is a downside to travel in
September, it is the mid-month closure
of many rifugios, which created a short
and long day schedule. On the upside, we
enjoyed the short relaxed days that reenergized
us for the longer treks.
Day six was one of
those long days, but for
us completing the huge
traverse of the Civetta-
Moiazza Massif was
the highlight of the
whole trek. We started
early with a downhill
plod but before long
were climbing the steep
rocky path up Cima
Coldai. Our first stop,
Rifguio Coldai (2132
metres), was perched
like an eagles’ nest
on the lower edge of
The Noble Nomads’ trek began at Lago di Braies
with their first day’s climb, Croda del Becco,
obscured by mist. photo by Graham Noble.
Forcella Coldai. From there we enjoyed
another striking view of Monte Pelmo,
but when we turned around the view
changed to shimmering Lago Coldai
and beyond, the vast panorama of the
Cordevole Valley far below us and in the
distance. We were even treated to the
sight of Marmolada, at 3342 metres, the
Dolomites’ highest peak.
Crossing Forcella Negro, we entered
Val Civetta and traversed the high scree
path below Civetta’s cliffs, which formed
a huge wall for the next seven kilometres.
Descending from the valley, we circled
southeast, passing the palatial looking
Rifugio Vazzoler (1714 metres) before
beginning the steady climb and fragile
traverse first to Forcella Col Dell’ovso
(1823 metres), then Forcella Del Camp
(1933 metres). Night fell before we
rounded Moiazza’s south wall to Rifugio
Carestiato (1839 metres), and welcomed a
beer after a long day.
On the seventh day we crossed Passo
Duran (1493 metres), entering the forest
trail first to Malga Moschesin, where we
stopped to cook lunch, then on to Rifugio
Pramperet (1875 metres). Although closed
for the season, the refuge offered us a
“winter room” with a double and triple
bunk—the only bed I’ve ever slept in
where my nose scraped the ceiling.
The next day we cancelled our early
start, too cozy to venture outside until we
The author’s son, Bryce Noble, leads the way up the ridge to Forcella De Zita, the
second highest point on the Dolomites’ Alte Vie 1 trail, followed by Bryce’s cousin
Kate and her brother David Noble. photo by Graham Noble.
20 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2010