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Family Fun at Abbot Hut Story and photos by ACC member Rani ...

Family Fun at Abbot Hut Story and photos by ACC member Rani ...

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<strong>Family</strong> <strong>Fun</strong> <strong>at</strong> <strong>Abbot</strong> <strong>Hut</strong><strong>Story</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>photos</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>ACC</strong> <strong>member</strong> <strong>Rani</strong> Palo of Camrose, AlbertaTuesday, August 17, 2004 dawned clear <strong>and</strong> chilly <strong>at</strong> Yoho N<strong>at</strong>ional Park’s LakeO’Hara campground. The Scott, Anderson <strong>and</strong> Palo families awoke <strong>at</strong> 6:30 a.m. – fouradults with their four children – Carlann Scott, 13, Phaedra Palo, 11, Nicola Scott, 10<strong>and</strong> Colden Palo, 7.We emerged from our tents about 45 minutes l<strong>at</strong>er <strong>and</strong> began the laborious task oforganizing our backpacks, preparing breakfast <strong>and</strong> locking up our leftover gear <strong>and</strong>food. Everything took longer than anticip<strong>at</strong>ed which, with children involved, was derigueur. Nonetheless, we were ready to head out <strong>by</strong> 11 a.m., our goal to hike <strong>and</strong> climbup to <strong>Abbot</strong> Pass for an overnight stay <strong>at</strong> the fabled <strong>Abbot</strong> <strong>Hut</strong>.According to records, including recent inform<strong>at</strong>ion, no one Colden’s age had everstayed <strong>at</strong> <strong>Abbot</strong>, nor had there been many other children even slightly older. Th<strong>at</strong>however, was not why we were aspiring to reach the pass. Two of the adults hadconsiderable experience with <strong>Abbot</strong> Pass <strong>and</strong> the surrounding Rockies <strong>and</strong> our childrenhad all proven their mettle scrambling, skiing, biking <strong>and</strong> hiking. Fitness wasn’t aconcern, but safety was. With appropri<strong>at</strong>e precautions, we deemed the children ready toappreci<strong>at</strong>e the thrill, beauty <strong>and</strong> historic charm of <strong>Abbot</strong> Pass <strong>and</strong> hut. The immedi<strong>at</strong>eforecast, which called for a continu<strong>at</strong>ion of the high-pressure system we had enjoyed formany days, was conducive to our <strong>at</strong>tempt.As weascendedaboveLakeO’Hara wepaid ourrespects inwords <strong>and</strong>thought tothe l<strong>at</strong>eLawrenceGrassiwho, in alabour ofHerculeanlove,


constructed the nonpareil trails of the area. We took a break <strong>at</strong> Victoria Falls, whichissues out of the superb tarn of the same name <strong>and</strong> arrived <strong>at</strong> Lake Oesa (‘ice’ in theStoney language), where we wolfed down our packed s<strong>and</strong>wiches, took some pictures<strong>and</strong> lolled in the warm sunshine. The children appeared a little daunted <strong>by</strong> their firstglimpse of the steep scree slopes of the gully we would ascend, <strong>and</strong> their excitementwas palpable.“Helmets on!” We left the lake <strong>and</strong> followed the system of ledges to the new routePeter Fuhrmann had established a few summers earlier, <strong>and</strong> took a break <strong>at</strong> the top ofthe ledges where the scree slog would begin. The children were initially disconcerted <strong>by</strong>the movement of the rocks – the two feet up, one foot down, ball-bearing scree – <strong>and</strong>everyone was making excellent progress until I heard a cl<strong>at</strong>ter of rocks <strong>and</strong> yelled,“Rock!”A football-sized rock was bounding down the slope directly under the frowning wallsof Mount Victoria, the northern guardian of the gully opposite Mount Lefroy. Suddenlythe calm <strong>and</strong> confidence th<strong>at</strong> had marked our progress eroded, <strong>and</strong> there was concern<strong>and</strong> some fear, which was accentu<strong>at</strong>ed <strong>by</strong> the continuing loose n<strong>at</strong>ure of the scree wetoiled <strong>and</strong> navig<strong>at</strong>ed over <strong>and</strong> through.After a while – th<strong>at</strong> seemed longer than it was – <strong>and</strong> with positive shepherding <strong>and</strong>example <strong>by</strong> the adults, the children’s trepid<strong>at</strong>ion ab<strong>at</strong>ed <strong>and</strong> we proceeded withoutincident. About halfway up there is a spot where briefly, a corner of <strong>Abbot</strong> <strong>Hut</strong> may bespied silhouetted against the sky. My son Colden saw it <strong>and</strong> shouted, “There it is!” Th<strong>at</strong>energizedall of us<strong>and</strong> therewas newfocus <strong>and</strong>resolve <strong>and</strong>with nervescalmed wescrambledup theremainingslopes <strong>and</strong>emergedfrom thegully toarrive <strong>at</strong>the pass <strong>at</strong>6:45 p.m. – a time we thought excellent considering our group’s aggreg<strong>at</strong>e short legs.


Our arrival was dram<strong>at</strong>ic – yelps of joy co-mingled with a sense of profoundachievement.The children quickly staked out their sleeping places in <strong>Abbot</strong> Pass <strong>Hut</strong>’s <strong>at</strong>tic – somewould sleep in Alberta <strong>and</strong> others in British Columbia! Meanwhile, the adults preparedsupper (a veritable feast in the making), getting ice from the glacier to melt for w<strong>at</strong>er(with Colden’s help) while I, oper<strong>at</strong>ing with the stealth of 007, buried cans of pop <strong>and</strong>beer in the glacier leading down to the De<strong>at</strong>h Trap on the Alberta side, also making suremy bottle of Chilean red remained hidden until suppertime. Making things even moreexciting for the children was a group of experienced mountaineers who arrived shortlyafter we did. As they made their supper they began preparing their gear for an earlymorning assault on Mount Victoria.The children loved the hut <strong>and</strong> the pass <strong>and</strong> each visit to the str<strong>at</strong>egically <strong>and</strong>beautifully situ<strong>at</strong>ed outhouse some metres behind the hut was replete with excitement.As well, sleeping on soft foamies be<strong>at</strong> the heck out of our r<strong>at</strong>her skinny sleeping m<strong>at</strong>s <strong>at</strong>the campground.The climbers quietly got up <strong>and</strong> left <strong>at</strong> 5:45 a.m., <strong>and</strong> we arose a couple of hours l<strong>at</strong>erto good we<strong>at</strong>her as promised. After breakfast we explored the upper reaches of thepass, touching mounts Lefroy <strong>and</strong> Victoria <strong>and</strong> snapping lots of pictures. The Mount


Victoria climbers returned safely <strong>and</strong> successfully shortly after 1 p.m., while a new partyarrived moments l<strong>at</strong>er.The Anderson, Scott <strong>and</strong> Palo group of eight began our descent soon afterward,taking the centre line with a couple of the adults showing how to heel-kick <strong>and</strong> glidethrough <strong>and</strong> above the scree. A few nervous jitters were quickly overcome <strong>and</strong> thedescent to Lake Oesa became a truly joyful <strong>and</strong> fun experience. Gorgeous sunshineb<strong>at</strong>hed us once again <strong>and</strong> we soaked in the views <strong>and</strong> basked in the sense ofachievement on the shores of the scintill<strong>at</strong>ing icy high mountain tarn. The return to LakeO’Hara, though anticlimactic, was picture perfect in terms of scenery, putting a lilt in ourcollective step. Everyone slept well th<strong>at</strong> night – even on our skinny m<strong>at</strong>s.

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