Avalanche Safety: Avalanche Safety: - The Alpine Club of Canada

Vol. 16, No. 1 ● Winter 2002AvalancheSafety:Not just forSnow Geekspage 8Buildinga DreamThe Trailto Abbot Hutpage 5

The Alpine Club of CanadaCorporate SupportersThe ACC thanks the following for their support,and encourages you to consider them and theadvertisers in this newsletter the next time youpurchase goods or services of the type they offer.Corporate SponsorsExplore MagazineHelly HansenMarmotMountain HardwearThe North FaceCorporate MembersAlberta Sport, Recreation, Parks & WildlifeFoundationAssociation of Canadian Mountain GuidesBackcountry AccessBanff Centre for Mountain CultureBlack Diamond EquipmentCanadian Avalanche AssociationForty BelowGearUp Sport (Canmore, AB)IBEX Outdoor ClothingLa SportivaLekiMalden Mills (Polartec)Mountain Safety Research (MSR)PatagoniaPetzlPUR Water Purification ProductsThe Hostel Shop (Calgary, AB)Therm-a-RestTUA SkiYamnuska (Canmore, AB)The Alpine Club of CanadaBox 8040, Canmore,Alberta, Canada T1W 2T8Phone # (403) 678-3200Fax # (403) 678-3224alpclub@telusplanet.netwww.AlpineClubofCanada.caDavid Toole, PresidentRod Plasman, SecretaryGord Currie, TreasurerCam Roe, VP ActivitiesPeter Muir, VP Access / EnvironmentJeffrey J. Potter, VP FacilitiesBob Sandford, VP PublicationsDavid Zemrau, VP ServicesBruce Keith, Executive DirectorSubmissions to The Gazette are welcome! If possible,please put it on a disk in any common Macintosh orDOS format and include a hard copy. Otherwise, feelfree to type or handwrite your sumbmission, makingsure it’s double-spaced and legible. The deadline for theSummer issue of the Gazette is April 30 th , 2002. Sendall submissions or “Letters to the Editor” to the addressabove or by email to: Gazette@telusplanet.netGazette Editor: Bonnie HamiltonAssistant Editor: Paul ThompsonPublishing Coordinator: Audrey WheelerLayout & Production: Suzan ChamneyAdvertising Director: Bruce KeithAdvertising rate sheet available upon request.Please direct all advertising inquiries to BruceKeith, National Office (403) 678-3202 or byemail to: bkeith@telusplanet.netCanada Post Agreement Number 1649205Thank You Zac Bolan!by R.W. Sandford, Vice-President Publicationsthe last six years, the Alpine Club of Canada Gazette has continued toOver grow in elegance and content. It now ranks in quality and style with anypublication of its kind in the country. The man behind the increasing quality of the Gazettehas been Zac Bolan. Zac’s committment, design capability, wit and humour have allowedthe Gazette to mature into a full-colour advertisement for the energy and enthusiasm thatare so much a part of what is worthwhile about belonging to the Alpine Club of Canada.Through his hand some of the club’s best writers stepped forward to share their experience ofmountains with a readership of more than 7,500 members. Zac also cultivated the razor witof cartoonists like Tami Knight and others who gave the Gazette its insightful humour.In the fall of 2001, Mr. Bolan decided to pass the editorial duties for the Gazette tosomeone else. On behalf of the Publications Committee and all the members of the club, Iwould like to thank Zac for his hard work, wit and commitment to the Gazette and wish himwell in all that he may undertake in the future.The new editor of the Gazette is Bonnie Hamilton. Bonnie has been a member of theAlpine Club of Canada for eight years. Over the past five years, she has been a trip leaderwith the Rocky Mountain Section. She has lived for seven years in the Bow Valley and iswell known in the mountaineering community. If you have articles you would like to havepublished in the Gazette, or if you have suggestions about how we can improve this memberservice, please contact Bonnie at Gazette@telusplanet.netWhat’s Inside...4 Message from the Editor4 Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . .Facility Booking Policies - In a Nutshell4 . . . . . . . . . . Not Just an Outhouse5 . . . . . . . . . . Building a Dream6 Mountaineering . . . . . . . . . . .Avalanche Safety8 . . . . . . . . . . Looking for a Mountain Adventure this Winter?9 . . . . . . . . . . . .Avalanche Alert10 . . . . . . . . . . GMC Report - Windy Creek / Remillard11 . . . . . . . . . . Summer Holiday 200112 . . . . . . . . . . Peaks of Fire14 Publications . . . . . . . . . . . .International Year of the Mountains15 . . . . . . . . . . . .Book Review: Backcountry Huts & Lodges16 . . . . . . . . . . . .Eric Brooks17 . . . . . . . . . . . .The Adventurous Spirit Lives On in The CAJ17 . . . . . . . . . . ACC Launches Canadian Alpine Journal Patrons Program18 Awards . . . . . . . . . . 2001 ACC Volunteer Awards18 . . . . . . . . . . New Awards19 . . . . . . . . . . A.O. Wheeler Legacy Award Winner Heather Mortimer20 Grants . . . . . . . . . . . .ACC Financial Grants20 . . . . . . . . . Karl Nagy Memorial Scholarship21 Governance . . . . . . . . . . The Board of Directors Meeting Highlights22 International . . . . . . . . . . . .Terrible Weather Doesn’t Stop Bravery and Enthusiasm23 National Offi ce . . . . . . . . . . . .National Office News23 Sections . . . . . . . . . . Le Festival D’escalade Sur Glace De Saint-Boniface23 Notices . . . . . . . . . . . .Photo Contest23 Classifi ed AdsWhat's Outside...Front cover: Keith Libeck on St. Nicholas Peak; photo by John DerickFront cover insert: Sylvia Forest on the Wapta Traverse; photo by John DerickBack cover: Chic Scott on approach to Mount Munday; photo by John DerickAlpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 3

Message from the EditorThrougha coincidental twist of events, the opportunity of editor has falleninto my lap. Convinced the position would challenge an idlemind, coupled with the fact there’s more room on my plate as my babies become independentpreschoolers, I accepted the offer with trepidation and excitement. I view my new rolemore as a gardener than an editor, tending the literary landscape that Zac Bolan envisioned,planted the seeds for and nurtured to its present state. I plan to keep watering and weeding,in the hopes of maintaining the vibrant and unique publication the Gazette has become. Thelocal sections are where the grass roots commitment to the ACC lies and I will continue touse the Gazette as a vehicle to share news, events and ideas among the sections, as well asreporting on the national level events. And I encourage you all, as my fellow gardeners, tohelp tend our little gem, by sending articles, photos and comments, so that it may flourish.Bonnie HamiltonNew...Facility BookingPolicies - In a NutshellDon’t forget:● ACC members with the huts upgradecan now book ACC backcountry huts oneyear in advance. All other ACC memberscan book the huts 60 days in advance,and the Clubhouse one year in advance.● You will be asked to pay a 10% nonrefundabledeposit at the time of bookingany backcountry hut.● The cancellation policy for noncommercialsmall groups (7 or less) is 72hours, and for large groups (8 or more) is14 days. The policy for commercial smallgroups is 14 days and 30 days for largecommercial groups.● In general, groups are not allowedto exclusively book the Clubhouse andthe Bell Cabin simultaneously. We mayconsider such bookings in the low season,but each request will be looked at on a caseby case basis. ACC members will still beallowed access to the showers and kitchenfacilities on a day use basis, provided theyuse the facilities at a time when it doesnot interfere with the overnight guests.● If a booking is made for a longweekend at any ACC facility, groups ofsize eight or larger must book BOTHnights of the long weekend (eg. if thelong weekend is Sat-Sun-Mon, the groupmust book both the Saturday and Sundaynights).For detailed information on facilitiesbooking policies, see our website atwww.AlpineClubofCanada.ca /facilityor email us at alpclub@telusplanet.netor phone us at (403) 678-3200, ext. 1Congratulations to Cyril Shokoples and Karl Klassen for their newroles with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG). Cyril is the newPresident of the Association, and Karl is the new (and first) Executive Director. The ACClooks forward to continuing good relations with the ACMG.Not Just an OuthouseStory and photos by Doug Renniethe main thrustAlthough of the StanleyMitchell Work Party’s effort, September 5to 15, 2001, was indeed the new palatialouthouse (pictured above), we didmanage to squeeze in some additional workas well. New bench seats for the hut, arealignment of the stairwell to the sleepingloft, and a good start on the new ceiling –tongue and groove pine. As with most workparties in the past, some odds and ends wereleft for subsequent initiatives.Most of the first day after arriving wasspent on the excavation of the outhouse.The design and location are a perfect matchwith the building backed into a hillside toallow for ground floor entry above, and thebarrel storage room below. We were mosthappy to have the lower house floor downbefore the snowfall of day three – our only“weather” of the entire 10 day period.Project manager Tim Clinton did anexcellent job of coordinating our variousefforts. Tim’s a “hands on” guy and was ontop of every aspect of the project from startto finish. Food and refreshments also workedwell. Everybody took turns cooking andcleaning. We did have some inspirationalspreads!Hours and hours of planning, prebuilding,painting, etc. went into this project– but as big an undertaking as it was, itcame off without a hitch. It was a treat to beeven a small part of it.Thank you! To everyone involved.Work Party volunteers: Tim Clinton, IainChynoweth, Tom Knott, Virginia Knott,Malcolm Talbot, Howard White, WernerCarsten, Tim Melville, Gabriella Hough,Donovan Hough, Dave Hough, JeffreyPotter, Frank Liszczak and Doug Rennie.Work Crew Ribbon Cutting Ceremony4 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002

Building a DreamBy Audrey Wheeler; Director, Club ProgramsAdream has come true for PeterFuhrmann, an Alpine Guide who hastraveled in our Rocky Mountains for morethan 30 years. Peter has hiked to the AbbotPass many times and believed a trail wasgreatly needed on the approach from LakeO’Hara, for the enjoyment and safety ofall mountain travelers in that area. “Sincemountaineering started in the Abbot Passarea in the late 1800s, no onehas ever thought it possible tobuild a trail on that steep anddifficult slope,” according toPeter. That’s where I cameinto the picture, roundingup sixteen keen volunteers inless than two weeks to help build Peter’sdream. I happily agreed because I had adream to see the Abbot Hut knowing itshistorical significance to mountaineeringin Canada. It was to be an event and acelebration.On September 15th this enthusiasticcrew of trail builders from the Alpine Clubof Canada’s Rocky Mountain Section met atthe Alpine Centre in Lake Louise at 7:00 AMSaturday morning to make their lunches forthat day. There was a lot of excited chatterabout this trail building trip over meat andcheese sandwiches being slapped together.The enthusiasm was contagious. As Peterdistributed picks and shovels at the LakePeter Furhmann, Audrey Wheeler and happy crew“to accomplishsuch a major taskin two days ishard to believe.”O’Hara Trail head he told us that the AlpineClub took over the lease in 1969 for theAbbot Hut, which is located at the top ofAbbot Pass (2,926m). The Hut, built in1922, was in desperate need of repair. Peterdecided to restore the Hut when it wassuggested it be burned down. With thehelp of four members of Banff NationalPark maintenance staff, they replaced thefloor, added a new cedarshingled roof, a new woodstove, insulated the upstairsand painted it. The AbbotHut was saved.In August this year Peterapproached the Alpine Clubabout constructing a safe trail to the Hut.With the support of Joe Aucher, LakeO’Hara Warden, and Gerry Isrealson, Back-Country Coordinator, he pre-marked thetrail in late August, hoping that he couldpull the rest of the project together soon.As we began our work at the base ofthe scree slope the sun warmed our backswhile we molded a trail where none hadbeen before. It gradually took shape as weprogressed up and up the steep slope to thetop of the Pass. One of our volunteers, JohnDerick, stashed enough beer in the snowat the first buttress for all of us to enjoya cold one and a well deserved break. Aswe approached the top, the route becamephoto by Paul ThompsonSeana Strainphoto by Paul Thompsonsteeper and we became weary, making thefirst glimpse of the Hut a welcome sight. Iwas so elated at the view of the Hut I totallyforgot about my sore muscles and tired feet;they just weren’t important anymore. I wasat the Abbot Hut.Then the feast began with a handwrittenmenu, linen napkins, double cream brie,gourmet pate, smoked oysters, and GoldenCream sherry, followed by Chicken CordonBleu with all the accompaniments, wine andfruit pies. Most of us had more difficultytrying to finish this extravagant meal thanwe did shoveling rock all day. We wereunsuccessful in eating all the fruit pies sothey were finished off with our breakfast.By 10:00 AM we were moving moreboulders and shoveling more rock. Peter wasvery impressed as we saw our work fromthe day before, and commented “everyoneworked furiously at it…to accomplish sucha major task in two days is hard tobelieve.” As hikers passed us they cheeredour accomplishment, one commenting thatthe trail was so good he wished he hadbrought his Roller Blades! Peter and I werevery pleased and christened the trail withleftover Riesling. Peter said he was “elatedthat, after so many years and thousandsof trips by so many people who had aterrible time, now there is a sensible, wellconstructed trail that will serve mountaineerswho love the high alpine.”This was the completion of both ourdreams and the beginning of new dreamsfor many others who will now be able toascend this slope more safely to discover thelove of the alpine.Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 5

Avalanche Safety:Not just for Snow Geeks!Story & photos by Paul ThompsonIfyou’re involved in an avalanche andthe victims aren’t dug out in lessthan 30 minutes, there’s less than a 50%chance they’ll survive. Since it’s practicallyimpossible for outside help to even getto your location within half an hour, thevictims’ survival depends entirely on you.Are you prepared?Avalanche safety training experts agreethere are two main elements to personalavalanche safety: Awareness and RescueSkills. According to Franz Kröll, chiefexaminer for the Austrian mountain guidesassociation, awareness is paramount.6 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002“Avalanche awareness is the first levelof protection. Transceivers can’t stop theavalanche - only the skier’s knowledge andcare keep him out of an avalanche.” Andthat is Kröll’s strongest message: the bestway to survive an avalanche is not to be in itin the first place.This is why avalanche safety courseshave become so important. It’s possibleto learn more reliable information in oneweekend than could be learned in yearson your own (assuming you survived longenough!). Based on a curriculum createdby the Canadian Avalanche Association,introductory and advanced courses workthrough both theoretical and on-snowpractice in terrain, snow pack and hazardevaluation and search and rescue techniques.Many ACC sections offer avalancheawareness courses for their members, andcommercial organizations offer themregularly also. In addition to backcountryskiers, the courses are being customized forsnowboarders, ice climbers, snowshoers andsnowmobilers as well.As Larry Stanier, a Canmore mountainguide and avalanche forecaster, points out,“just taking courses isn’t enough though.You need to practice these skills often tohone and improve them.” He recommendssetting up frequent informal transceiversearch practice sessions with friends andski group members, a suggestion followedby a number of Sections. These sessionsare appreciated and very well attended!According to Rod Plasman who organizes theRocky Mountain Section’s yearly transceiverpractice session, over 35 members spent theday with four leaders working through allkinds of different search scenarios.Backcountry travellers can also usetheir regular trips to practice their terrainand hazard evaluation skills, especially iftravelling with guides or in more experiencedgroups. By frequently discussing routechoices and terrain risks throughout theday, less experienced members of the groupcan absorb a huge amount of practicalinformation to augment what they’ve learnedin class.“Terrain evaluation is more reliable thansnow pack tests,” says Stanier. “If snowpack test results are at either extreme of thesafety scale, they’re usually pretty accurate,but when the results fall somewhere in themiddle, I’m reluctant to rely on them.”Multiple tests on the same slope can yield3 different results, leading Stanier to referto avalanche forecasting as a “black art” asmuch as a science. “Use the CAA AvalancheBulletin”, recommends Stanier. “In it you’llfind information compiled by an extensivenetwork of experts using the most currentobservations.” Many backcountry skiers andboarders, when confronted with a Bulletinlisting high or extreme hazard, simply chooseto head to the ski resorts rather than riskhighly unstable terrain.Will proper training and care keep youout of avalanches? Unfortunately not. Justask Judy Otton. She and her small groupof experienced skiers were day touringnear Commonwealth Creek in KananaskisCountry, Alberta late this past December.

“We had taken all the necessary precautions,including consulting the Avalanche Bulletinand avoiding high-risk slopes”, reportsOtton. But crossing what appeared to bea safe slope, a slide was triggered. Becausethey had kept a safe distance apart, only twoof the four were caught, and the remainingtwo were able to keep watch as the trappedskiers were swept down slope. One was onlypartially buried, and was located and dugout quickly. Judy’s husband Saul, however,had been carried into a small terrain trapand buried under several feet of snow.“Because we were all wearing transceivers, Iwas able to locate him quickly”, says Otton.Relying on his training, her husband hadthe presence of mind to protect his airwayand clear a small breathing space in the snowas the avalanche came to a stop. Visiblyshaking as she describes the fear surgingthrough her while frantically digging himout, Otton makes it clear that withouttraining and practice, the outcome couldhave been much worse. Instead, shaken butunhurt, the group skied out under theirown power.There’s no question that there is aheightened awareness of the need foravalanche safety among backcountrytravellers and even the general public.Undoubtedly, a great deal of it is due tomedia coverage of a number of recent highprofile avalanche accidents, most notablythe death of Michel Trudeau in 1998.It is also due to the unstinting effortsof the Canadian Avalanche Association(www.avalanche.ca)through their outreachprograms like theAvalanche Bulletin andAvalanche AwarenessDays, held annually onthe second weekend inJanuary at ski areas acrossthe country. “A numberof ACC sections helpsupport the CAA withdonations which makethese programs possible,” reports PhilipJohnston, marketing and sponsorshipcoordinator for association. “We very muchappreciate your support.”As Larry Stanier points out, the numberof avalanche fatalities in Canada hasn’tincreased dramatically in the last twentyyears, despite the massive increase in thenumber of recreational users in thebackcountry, so the education and awarenessprograms must be working. But with themedia promoting more and more extremeskiing and locations, and given that themajority of fatal avalanches are started by theskiers themselves, and 75% of those killedin avalanches were not wearing transceivers,there’s clearly still more to be done, and it allstarts with personal responsibility.Are you prepared?Larry Stanier demonstrates techniques to Rocky Mountain section trip leaders.Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 7

Looking for a Mountain Adventure this Winter?Photo by John LattaIntro to Winter Skiingand Mountaineering -mini Wapta Traverse❉ February 15 to 18, 2002 (four days)❉ Guide: Peter Amann❉ Camp Manager: Doug Nelson❉ $750 + GSTThe ACC is pleased to offer thisintroductory opportunity - great for thosewho want to learn the basics of wintermountaineering or take a refresher toimprove techniques. Instruction will be theemphasis of this camp; you will have lotsof time to practice your new skills daily, Agreat time will be had by all!Ice Climbing Camp,Golden, B.C.❉ March 1 to 5, 2002 (five days)❉ Guide: Todd Craig❉ Assistant Guide: Grant Meekins❉ Camp Manager: David Dornian❉ $750 + GSTGolden is a hidden gem in the iceclimbing world boasting no-approachbeginner routes to expert multi pitchendeavors. The staff will take you to hiddenareas where you won’t see a soul. On thiscourse/adventure you will learn to climbeffectively and efficiently on steep ice andlearn all the safety skills involved in thisrapidly growing winter activity. Due to thehigh staff to participant ratio, climbers ofall levels are invited to sign up - there willbe something for everyone!8 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002Thereare still a few spots available on the following ACC national trips.Call soon, because they are filling up quickly!Classic Wapta Ski Traverse❉ March 23 to 30, 2002 (seven days)❉ Guide: Peter Amann❉ Camp Manager: Frank Wawrychuk❉ $1195 + GSTThe Wapta Traverse, our members’favourite traverse for budding skimountaineers, provides a great introductionto winter travel in the mountains. Join usto learn the basics, or to improve your skillsand skiing ability. The destinations of thePeyto, Bow, Balfour and Scott Duncan hutscan’t be beat. Peter, an ever-popular guidewith our members, will provide instructionand guidance to our participants. Frank is anexperienced camp manager who will assistPeter, as well as prepare excellent mountainmeals throughout the week. Several skiascents will be attempted. Don’t miss out!Des Poilus Traverse(Wapta Icefields)❉ March 23 to 30, 2002 (seven days)❉ Guide: Lars Andrews❉ Camp Manager: John Derick❉ $1295 + GSTThis classic traverse allows fortremendous ski touring and mountaineeringopportunities throughout the week. Thistrip will include two nights at the Bow Hut,camping out on the Des Poilus Glacier fortwo nights and then two nights at the StanleyMitchell Hut in the Little Yoho Valley, wherepowder skiing abounds. A real mountainadventure with many opportunities for skiascents and great backcountry skiing. Ifyou have previously completed our WaptaTraverse, this would be a great progressionin your ski mountaineering adventures!Frisby Creek Ski Camp❉ April 13 to 20, 2002 (eight days)❉ Guides: Steve Ludwig &Helen Sovdat❉ Camp Managers: Ron Andrews& Dave Dornian❉ Camp Cook: Lisa Palechuk❉ $1625 + GSTThe ACC will be building on thesuccess of last year’s remote ski trip, whichboasted a fully outfitted basecamp, accessedby helicopter. This year we will visit theFrisby Creek area near Revelstoke. Theterrain will consist of both glaciated andnon-glaciated skiing with the opportunityto ascend peaks in the area. As withlast year, the camp will feature a largecooking tent to make your stay morecomfortable. This trip has been designedfor intermediate level backcountry skiers.Our camp staff will form a strong team,having previously served on many highlysuccessful winter trips with the ACC.Clemenceau toColumbia IcefieldsTraverse #2❉ May 4-11, 2002 (eight days)❉ $1295 + GSTDue to overwhelming demand, we arepleased to offer a second Clemenceau toColumbia Icefields traverse this spring.For a maximum of 6 participants andtwo staff, this demanding ski traversewill take participants through the mostoutstanding glaciated geography in theCanadian Rockies. The Tusk Glacier at thebase of Mt. Clemenceau (3658m/12,000')will be reached by ski plane. Ascents ofseveral 11,000 foot-plus peaks will beattempted on the ensuing traverse.Planning your summer holidays?As usual, the ACC is offering a slate of interesting, unusual and very fun summermountain adventures. Clemenceau Icefields, Glacier Circle, Tonquin Valley, Lake O’Hara,Valley of Ten Peaks, Icefall Lake, Gold Range, Yoho Valley, and the Wapta Icefields are someof the places we will visit in the summer of 2002. There is a trip for everyone who lovesclimbing and hiking in the mountains.Formore details on any of the above trips, view our website atwww.AlpineClubofCanada.ca and follow the links to Mountain Adventures.Alternatively, call Shannon Dick at the ACC’s national office (403) 678-3200, ext. 112 oremail her at accprogs@telusplanet.netBackground photo by David Jones

AVALANCHE ALERT!by Bruce Keith, Executive DirectorAsthis newsletter went to press,we became aware of a situationthat should concern every member of theClub and the Canadian mountaineeringcommunity: the Canadian AvalancheAssociation (CAA) in Revelstoke, BC, hasbeen told it may lose the $37,500 in BCgovernment funding it uses to support itsPublic Avalanche Bulletin service. TheCAA has indicated that, should the BCgovernment funding not continue, it isa very real possibility that it will have toeliminate the service as early as mid-winterthis year.The Alpine Club of Canada, whichprovides financial support to the CAA,believes the Bulletin is an essential publicsafety service, and that it’s elimination wouldhave a serious negative impact on all alpinebackcountry users and the mountaineeringcommunity. Lives will be unnecessarily lost!In addition, the money the BC governmentmight “save” each year through the fundingcuts would be more than used up onavalanche search and rescue missions thatwill be unnecessary if the service stayed inplace.We strongly urge you to email, call orwrite to those in the BC government withdecision-making authority and encouragethem to reconsider their planned fundingcuts. The CAA is not just looking forgovernment handouts. If necessary, it isfully prepared to look at a partnershiparrangement in which the governmentcontinues to provide funding and theCAA raises new matching funds from themountaineering community.A list of email addresses for key BCgovernment decision makers is shownbelow. If you’d prefer to phone or write theseindividuals, please get in touch with theNational Office for the applicable contactinformation.As well, please contact applicabledecision makers in the Alberta governmentto encourage them to consider providingfinancial support for the Bulletin servicePhoto by Suzan Chamney- it is estimated that approximately 42%of those that currently use the service areAlbertans, yet the Alberta government doesnot provide any funding support to theCAA.Finally, contact federal governmentdecision makers as well - the feds provideno financial support to the CAA, yet thepublic safety aspects of the Bulletin serviceare no different than similar services the fedsprovide to such other groups as boaters andpilots.BC GOVERNMENT CONTACTSHon. Gordon Campbell, Premieremail: premier@gov.bc.caHon. Michael DeJong, Minister of Forests(currently provides $5,000 in funding)email: mike.dejong.mla@leg.bc.caHon. Rich Coleman, Minister of PublicSafety and Solicitor General (currentlyprovides $20,000 in funding)email: SG.Minister@gems1.gov.bc.caHon. Stan Hagen, Minister of SustainableResource Management (currently provides$2,500 in funding through its “BC Assetsand Land Corporation”, or BCAL - seebelow)email: stan.hagen.mla@leg.bc.caMr. Bill Valentine, President and CEO,BCAL (and Deputy Minister of SustainableResource Management)email: BCALinfo@gems1.gov.bc.caHon. Joyce Murray, Minister of Water,Land & Air Protection (currently provides$10,000 in funding)email: joyce.murray.mla@leg.bc.caAlpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 9

2001 - GMC Report - Windy Creek / Remillardby Brad HarrisonAugust21, the skies were clearbut storm clouds werebuilding to the West. We were going to tryto get a couple more days of climbing inbut the weather forecast was grim at best.Eric Unterberger, manager of the CMHAdamant Lodge, had generously allowed usto use their 212 at short notice. Thanks to alot of hard work by my excellent tear downcrew and yeoman service provided by the5th week participants on their last day, thecamp was ready to move in a few hours.Seven weeks of another GMC were aboutto come to an abrupt end. It was a goodsummer, the campsite was sweet and theclimbing different, but interesting. The stoicfolks of the 1st week were inspirational,suffering through dismal weather with everpresentlaughter and smiles, while the wellbarbecuedpeople in weeks 4 and 5 wouldhave appreciated an hour or two of the rain.It is impossible to thank all the people whomade the GMC engine run.The amateur leaders, cooks, guides andcoordinators all worked their butts offto satisfy the individual requests of eachparticipant; not always an easy task, but theymanage to get it done with a smile. DonMcTighe and the staff at Alpine Helicoptersprovided us with reliable, accommodatingand safe service. CMH generously allowedus to dominate the Remillard area for 6weeks of prime time. Windy Creek is oneof the most important summer use areas intheir operations.10 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002On July 6th, 2002 a train of six orseven overloaded pickups will be snaking upthe Bigmouth Creek Forest Service Road,the final destination of their payloads beinga campsite just west of the Trident andMt. Neptunephoto by David JonesNeptune peaks. This is where the 2002GMC will take place. The mountains areremote, and have entertained very fewvisitors. The west summit of the 10,264'Mt.Trident has been climbed twice. The firstascent was in 1937 by C.Hasler, K.Gardner,L.Guest and Ed Feuz and seconded in 1989by the KMC. The south summit has beenclimbed once in 1951 by T. Scudder. TridentTower, to the north remains unclimbed.The variety of routes is endless. As well as anumber of longer technical challenges, thereare many pleasant, shorter and non-technicalroutes near the camp. There isn’t muchbeta about this area so drop me an email(colwest@telus.net) if you are interested inlearning more about the local routes. Manythanks to David Jones for the information Ihave gathered from his enormous collectionof data. Check out his new guidebook,Selkirks South which is informative and amust-have for Alpinists. I believe SelkirksNorth will be out soon.Before providing a summary of successfulclimbs for this summer’s GMC, I want toleave you with two quotes. I didn’t have mypocket recorder, so they aren’t exact, but Ibelieve I have captured the general gist.“The GMC validates each and everyparticipant; everybody’s opinion is worthsomething, we all feel like we belong.”— Doug Craig.After having a t-slot (he didn’t build)blow, Dave Dornian slid all the way downa benign slope and, as he passed his ropeteam, calmly said, “Off belay.”MountainParties / Participants Parties / Participants Parties / ParticipantsRemillard - 2881m/9450' SE Ridge SE Glacier E. Ridge3 / 11 17 / 97 1 / 4Craw - 2637m/8649' Craw Notch N. Ridge WSW Ridge2 / 6 11 / 61 1 / 4Foxtrot - 2550m/8364'W. Ridge13 / 89Serendipity- 2857m/9371'OK Glacier13 / 98Yardarm - 2644m/8738'SE Ramp14 / 101ACC - 2347m/7700'E Ramp11 / 63Bravo - 2750m/9020'S. Ramp7 / 55Courthouse - 2595m/8511' NE Ridge W Ridge6 / 23 3 / 17Echo - 2990m/9151' NW Ramp E RidgeWhiteface Tower - 2829m/9279'Wart - Half Dome - ACC Traverse 3 / 23Remillard - Wart - Half Dome - ACC Traverse 1 / 47 / 31 3 / 11N. Ridge1 / 3

Summer Holidays 2001by Rob WilsonHavingenjoyed participatingin The Alpine Clubof Canada’s General Mountaineering Campin the summers of 1994 and 1998, I againhad the itch to go on another mountain triplast July 2001.The 2001 climbing area was located atWindy Creek in the Remillard Group of theSelkirk Mountains, one range west of theRockies. After driving two hours north ofRevelstoke, to the helicopter staging area,climbers and personal gear were air liftedto the Windy Creek area where base camphad been set up at an elevation of 6000feet. At this elevation, tree line ends andgives way to Alpine meadows, rock, snow,glaciers and mountaintops. This remote andseldom visited area would be our home forthe next week. I unpacked my personal gear,and after a dinner of soup, salad, pasta andapple crisp prepared by the camp cooks, Isettled into my tent for the night lookingforward to a week of mountain climbing.Sunday I awoke to overcast skies andjoined five others who signed up the nightbefore to climb a moderate peak we called“ACC”. We headed up through the meadowsfollowing Windy Creek to reach a pointwhere we could scramble up a 700 footheadwall to make the ridge which wouldgive us access to the summit of our chosenpeak. After a rest break under clearing skies,we climbed the ridge which kept gettingsteeper the closer we got to the summit,requiring use of a climbing rope in twoplaces. We all arrived safely at the summitjust before noon. On completion of lunchand a noon radio call to base camp, wescrambled down the rock ridge and uponreaching the meadows below the ridge,sunned ourselves for an hour before headingback to camp. We arrived in time for aSunday dinner of soup, salad, Chinese stylechicken, rice & veggie main dish, followedby fresh strawberries and cream.Beginning to feel acclimatized by thenext day I signed up for a more strenuousclimb requiring glacier and rock climbingskills. Glacier mountain travel is a passionthat keeps me returning to the mountains.This day was no exception to past climbingtrips, and I enjoyed the glacier we had toclimb to reach the summit ridge whichwould lead us to the top. After anotherfull day under sunny skies, we returned tocamp for a dinner of roast beef and a tastydessert.We awoke to rain on Tuesday and allclimbing trips in the area were cancelled.Roger, a certified ACMG (Associationof Canadian Mountain Guides) and aprofessional photographer, conducted aphoto / camera clinic in the dining tentduring the morning, and in the afternoonPeter, the other ACMG guide in camp,conducted a refresher clinic on map, compassand GPS skills. This was the only badweather day we had the whole week.Wednesday, with a 4:30 AM start, Iwent on to climb Mt. Remillard the majorpeak in the area which required sometechnical climbing skills, returning to camplate that night and a late dinner of ham,spinach quiche and blueberry pie. Thursday,I decided to climb on my own and scrambledup a peak called Yardarm. I took advantageof being alone and was able to take picturesof the mountain scenery at my leisure,including Mt. Remillard on the other sideof the valley. Dinner at the end of this daywas turkey with all the trimmings. It wastruly a day of “thanksgiving” as the weatherSelf portrait by Rob Wilsoncontinued to be flawless. I crawled into mysleeping bag that night saddened the nextday would be the last day of climbing in thisbeautiful alpine area.Friday I joined a group and, after adifficult morning of climbing and routefinding, we decided to split into two groups.One group climbed a peak close by calledEcho. The other smaller group, of which Iwas a part, went on to climb peaks Tangoand Serendipity. After a short rest on top ofSerendipity, we retraced our steps to climbover Tango again, in order to go on toclimb Echo, and then drop down the otherside, eventually leading us back to camp.Needless to say we had another long, butperfect day of climbing, reaching camp late,but learning the camp had delayed dinneruntil our arrival. It was appreciated by all,as this was our last dinner in camp beforeflying out the next day. Each day the cookskept outdoing themselves and this was noexception, making our last feast a MexicanDinner.Saturday, our fly out day, we awoketo rain and overcast skies and a threat ofstaying at least another night in camp. Butafter close to a three hour delay, Don, thehelicopter pilot, was able to fly a longer anddifferent route to reach our camp, where, bylate Saturday, he was able to get all of us outand the new incoming group into camp.Will I do it again? I’ve heard that militarypeople say Navy retire and go “groundpounding”, Army retire and take up sailing.I have witnessed this, and I am no exception,as I retired after serving thirty-four yearsin the Navy. Also, this was the year Istarted collecting my OAP (meaning OldAge Pension to the very young!). As longas I can train, prepare for and enjoy themountains, I keep telling myself, “Yes, I willdo it one more time.”Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 11

Peaks of FireClimbing Mexico’s VolcanoesStory and photosby Kathia Voyer and Nadia Bonenfantsunny Mexico. There wasHot, nothing that compared to thetropical flowers, snowy peaks and friendlypeople. What a great feeling to step off theplane and seize the different smells, colours,smiles, all melting into the slow pace of life.Upon our arrival, we decided not tospend any time in the big city, so after twodays we headed to our first climb, VolcanNevado de Toluca. This was a great climbto acclimatize on before heading to highervolcanoes, it is also well renowned for its twobeautiful Laguna lakes. After an afternoonof hiking we arrived to what they call“Aubergue Alpino”. It was a festive day inMexico, and to our surprise all the city folkswere in the foothills enjoying the clean, freshair. We spent the night on the rolling greenhills and climbed to the craters the nextday. Mission one accomplished, we headedtowards El Pico de Orizaba.The town of Puebla was a great strategicarea to base trips from. It was in the middleof the two climbs we had planned, hotelswere cheap, the food was good and thesupermarket had everything needed for ourexpeditions. We spent a few days organizing12 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002Mount Popocatepetleverything, shopping and packing the food.From here we took a bus to a small villagecalled Tlachichuca, a town nestled in thefoothills of El Pico. We arranged a shuttleto get in and out of the valley. Servimont, aclimbing company, was based out of an oldsoap factory and ran 4x4s to get us to ourstarting point. After a bumpy two hour ridethey left us in what looked like the AfricanSavanna; we camped in the upper part ofthe valley before heading up to base campthe next day. Acclimatization here was thekey.As we slowly rose over the grassy hills, wehad the most powerful, unimaginable viewof the Pico, The Giant in the Clouds, as thelocals call him. It was really fascinating towalk through the many geo-climatic zones.One day we were escaping the venomoussnakes and the next we heard the crunchingof snow under our feet. Both of us feltstrongly about the mountains, and theenergy we experienced on this section of ourtrip was unexplainable. We arrived at PiedraGrande, with Pico sleeping in the clouds,above our heads. Although this was the rainyseason and climbs got more challenging, wemet other climbing parties from Europe,South America and the USA. It was greatto exchange information on climbs andtraditions from other areas of the world.Part of our plan was to spend two nightsat Base Camp at 4200 meters. We hikedback down to the forest and back up again.This worked out well for both of us and sowe decided to climb to high camp on daythree. Situated at 4600 meters, it offered agreat view of the valley, but unless it wascrystal clear, it was hard to see the routeup the peak. Over the next few hours wejust got dumped on. We had been observingthe weather patterns and it was similar everyday. We knew the best time was from themiddle of the night until 10:00 AM in themorning.That night, many prayers went out to themountain gods, at 2:00 AM in the morning,we started to climb. It was a full moon sowe didn’t even need our headlamps. We feltlike astronauts on the moon, we scrambledup through a couloir and reached the foot ofthe glacier at 4:30 AM. We roped up, donnedour crampons and started the ascent. Thiswas where we struggled to describe ouremotions, the energy flowed through ourcold bodies, and we felt freedom, liveliness,the unknown, and the intangible. Awestruckby the shimmering snow and the full moon,we climbed and climbed in the fresh newsnow, switched leads the whole way up.It was special to be two good friends andfeeling the beauty and the power of themountain.We learned two things here. In themountains, one needs good weather anda great partner. As we ascended, we hadthe full moon on our right side and theawakening sun shining on our left. It wasthe perfect balance; the pureness of life.The clouds filled the valley below and wewere the only two beings on the peak.The colours were so rich with the new dayand Pico shone in its entire splendor. Thesummit felt so close, yet it was still far away.We didn’t talk much that morning but weknew how fulfilling this experience was. Theair was thinner and our legs heavier, but wewent on. We finally reached the top at 5,600meters and looked down into the vast sleepycrater. So much emotion and exhaustion! Astears of joy rolled down our cold cheeks,we knew this was only the start of manyadventures to come. This was our steppingstoneto other mountains of the world. Wesnapped a few shots and started down. Atthis point in the morning, the sun wasreally hot and the new snow was rollingon the slope. Our crampons were likecookie cutters, and the visibility started to

deteriorate. It was a tricky descent and it feltlike the altitude had caught up to us. Westopped and stayed hydrated, but we weremoving much slower and the fatigue wasinvading our bodies. We knew that keepinga good pace was the key, and so after afew hours in the thick clouds, we reachedthe bottom of the glacier. We followed ourtracks back to high camp and enjoyed thesnowy afternoon with a deep sleep.After climbing El Pico de Orizaba, weheaded back to Puebla to recharge ourbatteries, shop and pack for our last climb.Iztaccihuatl is a 5,230-meter peak known asThe Sleeping Lady and is part of the Popo-Ixta National Park. Popocatepetl erupted inDecember and so both mountain accesseswere closed. We knew that climbing partieswere still able to get to the trailhead, and sowe decided to give it a try. After spendinga few days in the town of Amecameca, wefound a taxi driver willing to take us tothe park gate. He warned us, and said thatwe would probably not be able to enterthe park, but we chanced it anyway. It wasa surprise when we realized that our taxidriver was a friend of the military guardwho worked at the park entrance. After afew minutes of a Mexican stand-off theydecided to let us pass. We got a ride all theway to La Joya, our starting point for theclimb. We arranged for a pick up date andsimply hoped that good karma would makehim return here at the end of the week.The National Park was absolutelymagical. Tropical flowers and cactuses, two5,000 meter peaks, green rolling hills andbeautiful rock walls lined the valley. Westarted climbing that morning and ended upspending the night on a col. There was lotsof wind, but the weather was holding. Thatnight we fell asleep to the sound of howlingwolves from the valley below. The nextmorning, we woke up to the shimmeringsun and kept climbing up towards a hutthat was situated at 4,750 meters. Therock formations offered many opportunitiesfor bouldering. We reached the hut in theafternoon and scouted the rest of the routethat was visible from here. The weatherturned bad overnight and so we waitedanother day before climbing again. Thesecond night in the hut, we went for it.It was clear and chilly as we started ourascent. We climbed the “knees” known asLos Rodillas, which then lead us to the“belly”, La Barriga. By that time, the sunwas rising and again many emotions were inthe air.The sky was so clear we were able tosee el Pico de Orizaba, Popo and its trailof smoke, and the morning lights of busyMexico City. Ixta was a great mountainbecause it had a less direct route than theother ones we climbed. Lots of variationscould be done and it was more challenging.There were three false summits to get overbefore reaching the top, known as the“breast”, El Pecho. The terrain varied fromalpine style rock to glacier travel. The viewfrom up here was magnificent and onceagain there was an unbelievable feelingwhen we reached the top. We stayed on thesummit for a while and contemplated thevalley below. We were surprised to see howwell our bodies responded at high altitude.We recapped about how lucky we were tohave been given the chance to experiencethe mountains of Mexico. The next day, wedescended to the col where we spent thenight dreaming of other trips to come.The hike to the valley floor provided timeto reflect on the month spent in Mexico. Wewere full of energy and appreciation for thetrip we had lived, and for the mountains.The morning was so clear and the colours sobright. We had accomplished our goals andit was an unforgettable feeling. On our lastmorning, walking back to the meeting spotthat we had arranged with our taxi driverthe week before, we rounded the bend atthe end of the road and we saw Pedro. Wesmiled and got in the car. When we left thevalley that day, we realized how perfect ourjourney was and knew that someone waswatching over us. Thank you Jen.We would like to Thank:The ACC for the Jen Higgins Fund grant, theHiggins family, Valhalla Pure, Wild Roses,Pat & Baiba Morrow, University College ofthe Cariboo.Nadia & Kathia with Mount Iztaccihuatl in the backgroundAlpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 13

The International Year of MountainsCelebrates the ACCby R.W. Sandford, Vice-President PublicationsThoughthe decision cameat the last moment,Canada is making a significant commitmentto the celebration of the United NationsInternational Year of Mountains in 2002.This celebration is being mounted by ParksCanada through its heritage tourism strategyinitiative in and around national parksin Western and Northern Canada. TheCanadian International Year of Mountainscelebration will involve considerable focuson the role The Alpine Club of Canada hasplayed in helping Canada become one ofthe world’s foremost alpine nations.Through this celebration, a broad rangeof partners interested in mountainecosystems and watersheds will have theopportunity translate the UN globalobjectives into messages Canadians andtheir guests can understand and appreciate.These messages include the importance ofmountain places to global ecological andcultural heritage, the fragility of mountainenvironments and resources and the necessityof sustainable approaches to mountaindevelopment.This initiative will also celebrate howCanadians are working to ensure ecologicaland commemorative integrity in ourmountain communities and in and aroundour mountain national parks, provincialparks, protected places and multiple useforest areas.The Alpine Club of Canada is planninga number of events associated with theCanadian International Year of Mountainscelebration. Section trips and eventsthroughout the country will focus on Yearof Mountains themes. Special nationalinitiatives will include an ACC hostedcelebration at Wheeler Hut on July 27 th ,2002 that will mark the birthplace ofCanadian mountaineering. TheInternational Year of Mountains will alsobe a featured theme at the MountainGuides’ Ball in the fall of 2002. UIAAPresident Ian McNaught Davis will be thePatron of the ball. The Canadian Centrefor Mountaineering will be offering SummitClub outings in Canada for the GermanAlpine Club in celebration of the IYM.The ACC’s services group will be publishinga special edition of Alpine Accidents inCanada next year and, in honour of theInternational Year of Mountains and theCentennial of the American Alpine Club, thepublications committee will be launching amajor book on the climbing adventures ofA.J. Ostheimer in Canada during the 1920s.This important historical account will bepublished in March of 2002.Look for the International Year ofMountains logo on the Canadian AlpineJournal and check your section events forspecial IYM programming. The OttawaSection will be celebrating the InternationalYear of Mountains with a special slidepresentation by Barry Blanchard Slide Showand Mountain Photography Awards. TheVancouver Island section is devoting itsSummer Camp to International Year ofMountain themes. If you find yourself inVancouver this summer, be sure to see thedisplay of mountain art at the VancouverArt Gallery. As well there will be museumdisplays and special programming throughthe mountain national parks.If you would like to get involved,please visit Canada’s International Year ofMountains website atwww.yearofmountains.caIf you would like further informationcontact your section chair or Mike Mortimerat mikemortimer@attglobal.net14 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002

Book ReviewBackcountry Huts & Lodges of the Rockies and Columbiasby Lynn MartelPicka page, any page and thenplan a dream trip.If ever there was a wish book forbackcountry enthusiasts, this is the one.Backcountry Huts & Lodges of the Rockiesand Columbias, by Jim Scott, is acomprehensive guidebook to every hut, yurt,igloo, chalet, cabin, shelter and lodge in theRockies and the interior ranges of BC.Scott, a college instructor and authorwho has been hiking, skiing and climbingin the Rockies and Columbias for most ofhis life, has methodically organized his bookinto an information packed catalogue ofplaces to experience the fondest mountainmemories of anyone’s life.Each entry provides the hut’s location,including topo map coordinates, accessroutes for winter or summer, capacityand cost. As well, amenities such ascookstoves, woodstoves, propane or solarlighting fixtures, or in some cases - the lackthereof, are carefully listed.Treasured hideaways range from thespartan four-person Sapphire Col Shelter,perched at 2590 metres at the head ofthe Asulkan Valley in Rogers Pass, whichboasts neither heat, cooking nor lightingfacilities, to Canadian Mountain Holidays’Bugaboos Lodge which once hosted PierreElliot Trudeau who was pampered likeall CMH guests with massages, hot tubs,gourmet meals and helicopter assisted skiing,hiking or mountaineering.The true gems in this book are thescarcely heard of, hard work to get to,remote and unspoiled mountain huts sittingon the shores of glacier fed lakes, or tuckedinto high alpine meadows a full day’s hike orski away from the nearest unpaved road.Naiset Cabins in Assiniboine ProvincialPark, Olive Hut, a stone shelter planted ona granite rib near the Catamount Glacier orthe fabled Alpine Club of Canada’s (ACC)Fairy Meadows hut, prized for its proximityto spectacular skiing, are the true gems ofthis guidebook.Backcountry Huts & Lodges bears theACC logo and the Club’s graciousendorsement. Scott, who has served severalstints as hut custodian, credits FacilitiesFairy Meadow Hutphoto by Nancy HansenDirector Nancy Hansen in his introductionfor her assistance in ensuring that all ACChut descriptions are as accurate as possible.Scott also employs a sense of humour whenprudent, suggesting in the introductionthat users “read between the lines in thedescriptions” of huts and cabins that evokeadjectives such as, “ ‘a bit dilapidated’ ‘rustic’or ‘primitive’”.As an added bonus, Scott included a fewvaluable extras, including GPS coordinatesfor those packing the latest in technologyalongside their trail mix, as well as contactinformation for forest service, provincialand national park offices. A sentimentaltouch is achieved with the inclusion of “InMemoriam: Recently Defunct Huts,” whichserves to remind the reader just how muchthese basic structures can add to anyone’smost cherished backcountry memories.In Backcountry Huts & Lodges, Scotthas created a book that is filled with the auraof cozy log cabins covered in snow piledas high as the windows, the wood stovesfilling the air with the sweet scent of pine,and memories of mountain adventures thatalways leave a visitor wanting more.Backcountry Huts & Lodges of theRockies & Columbias, by Jim Scott, 287pages, Johnson Gorman publishers, isavailable through the ACC NationalOffice at (403) 678-3200 ext. 1 and ourOnline store at:www.AlpineClubofCanada.caAlpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 15

Eric Brooks Passes AwayIt was with great sadness that the Club learned of the passing of Eric Brooks, one of ourlife and honorary members, in May of last year at the age of 97.Apart from being a highly respected mountaineer in his day, Eric served the Club in avariety of capacities from the time he joined in 1929. Notable milestones in his associationwith the ACC were:1937: Silver Rope for Leadership Award1938-1941: Vice President1941-1947: President1947-1952: Honorary Secretary1954- 1964: Honorary President1969: Became an Honorary Member1995: Presented with the A. O. Wheeler Legacy AwardA full obituary will appear in the 2002 Canadian Alpine Journal.Few members have made such a significant contribution to the Club over such aprolonged period of time. The Club extends its sincere condolences to the Brooks family.But Eric’s contribution to the Club was not restricted to his lifetime. As part of hisestate, Eric bequeathed $50,000 to the Club on the condition that the annual investmentincome be used to support the publication of the ACC’s Canadian Alpine Journal - Canada’sofficial record of mountaineering, published annually since 1907. David Toole, NationalACC President, said, “This generous gift will stay with the Club in perpetuity, and willhelp to provide current and future generations of Alpine Journal readers with a continuinghigh quality publication on Canadian mountaineering accomplishments. Through hisforethought, Eric has left a permanent legacy of significant benefit to the Club and itsmembers.”These types of bequests, sometimes referred to as “Planned Giving”, allow the Clubto accomplish many things that would otherwise be difficult or impossible. They canalso provide substantial income tax savings to the donor and his/her estate. Any memberinterested in discussing a planned gift or donation to the Club can do so on a confidentialbasis by contacting Bruce Keith, Executive Director, in the National Office at (403)678-3202, or by email: bkeith@telusplanet.net16 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002

The Adventurous Spirit Lives On inThe Canadian Alpine Journalby Audrey Wheeler; Director, Club ProgramsThe adventurous spirit lives in thosewho wonder.The Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ) is acollection of pages full of mystery, adventure,hot editorials, mountain culture, history andawesome photos of personal triumphs in themountains. Climbers challenge their fearsand allow their dreams of adventure to drawthem into the backcountry and up to themountaintops. The reasons for their exploitslie in the heart of each climber. Their storiesare told in the Canadian Alpine Journal;beneath the words are the dreams and fearsthat made their expeditions a reality.My most recent adventure was skiing tothe top of Mount Gordon (3,203m.), myhighest peak thus far. I’m not the first to doit, nor the fastest, and I didn’t do with onearm tied behind my back. I did it because Iwondered if I could and just happened to bein the neighborhood. It was thrilling for me.It’s precisely this feeling that inspires thestories that are recorded in the CanadianAlpine Journal.Published annually by the Alpine Clubof Canada since 1907, the Journals recordmountaineering experiences of their day andare truly priceless accounts of our history inthe mountains. The dusty covers of the earlyfabric bound journals have evolved into thefull colour glossy magazine style that wenow publish. Currently, contributors submittheir articles to Geoff Powter, our volunteereditor for the past 10 years. He gets morematerial than any issue can possibly swallowand chooses well-written articles about ourongoing yearning to explore. We exploreourselves, our personal limits.As I was settling into my office inthe new addition at the National OfficeACC Launches Canadian AlpineJournal Patrons ProgramInspiredby the generousdonation from theestate of Eric Brooks, the Club hasannounced the creation of the “CAJ PatronsProgram”. The intention of the programis to encourage members and others to“make a difference” by becoming financialsupporters of the publication during theirlifetime.Patrons can choose to pledge supportfor a single year, or opt to make an annualcommitment over a longer period. Theminimum pledge is $250 per year, with noupper limit. All patrons and their donationamount will be acknowledged on the frontinside cover of the Journal (unless otherwiserequested), and all donations are eligible forincome tax receipts.In launching the program, Bob Sandford,VP Publications said, “Since it was firstpublished in 1907, the CAJ has assumeda very special role in the heritage ofthe Club and the history of Canadianmountaineering. The purpose of this newprogram is to ensure sufficient financialsupport in the years ahead and to guaranteeits well deserved reputation as a high quality,inspiring publication.”If you would like to become a CAJPatron, please contact Bruce Keith, ExecutiveDirector, without delay, by telephone(403)-678-3202, emailbkeith@telusplanet.net, or mail to theNational Office. The deadline for finalisingthe 2002 CAJ is fast approaching, and yourdonation will make a difference!Photo by David MoeClubhouse, I happened upon a box with afull set of CAJs. Thumbing through the firstissues, I felt inspired to further pursue myown adventures and privileged to be part ofsuch an historic club.Experience it for Yourself !The Canadian Alpine Journal isavailable in many different ways:● as an add-on option to yourmembership. At $23 including GSTand shipping (Canadian residentsonly), this is the least expensive wayto satisfy your CAJ cravings! Call theNational Office at (403) 678-3200 ext.1, or email us at: alpclub@telusplanet.net and ask for the CAJ Option to beadded to your membership.● on a retail basis, either:● at the Canmore Clubhouse, or● at participating retail stores.The 2002 Canadian Alpine Journalwill be available in early June, andthere are still some 2001 CAJs forsale. For past issues of the CAJ, pleasecontact the National Office for priceand availability.Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 17

2001 ACC Volunteer AwardsDueto the extraordinary number of ACC Service awards presented at last year’sAGM, biographies of the award recipients have had to be split over severalGazettes. You can view the complete list of award recipients and their biographies on thewebsite at www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/awards/recent.htmlDistinguished Service AwardsIAN & MARGARET BROWN - Vancouver IslandSection (joined ACC 1978)“Ian and Margaret have always been ateam in everything regarding the ACC.”Along with leading many trips they havebeen involved in lobbying for park status,park planning and management, trailbuilding and local access issues. “Theirenergy and enthusiasm continues to motivateall members, new and old.”IRENE GOLDSTONE - Vancouver Section(joined ACC 1978)Irene has given service to the sectionin each and every year that she has beena member. She has been MembershipChair, Secretary, Chair and Archivist of theVancouver Section. “Her attention to detailand commitment to see a task through tocompletion was indispensable to the effectivefunctioning of the Vancouver Section.”JOHN HARROP - Calgary Section(joined ACC 1993)John has spent six years as VP Facilities.He was very active on the Huts, Clubhouseand Energy Waste Water Managementcommittees. He has been the ClubhouseCommittee Chair from 1998 until present.“John added flair and style to all of thejobs that were completed over the years. Henever did just what was required; he alwayswent a step beyond to ensure a quality jobwith pizzaz.”JULIA KEENLISIDE - Edmonton Section(joined ACC 1993)Julia has chaired the Jennifer HigginsFund since its inception and has alsobeen Membership Coordinator, Chair andSection Rep for the Edmonton Section.“Julia has promoted and encouraged womenboth at a local and national level to beinvolved in mountaineering to a greaterdegree.”CINDY KLASSEN - Manitoba Section(joined ACC 1993)Cindy has been Secretary and Chair ofthe Manitoba Section. In her capacity asChair she implemented the Section TripLeaders Handbook, the leaders’ coursesand developed the course syllabuses for18 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002beginning and intermediate climbers.“Cindy has been the Manitoba Section’smost enthusiastic and dedicated proponentfor many years.”KEN LARLEE - Edmonton Section(joined ACC 1993)Ken has been involved in many areasof the Alpine Club. He has assisted withrenovations on the Wates-Gibson and BowHuts, was chair of the Alberta Sections, wasChairman and Climbing Chairman of theEdmonton Section and helped design andconstruct the climbing wall at the Universityof Alberta. “In summary he has provided aninvaluable contribution to the Alpine Cluband the Edmonton Section.”JAY MacARTHUR - Vancouver Section(joined ACC 1988)Jay has been a member of the ACC forover 25 years. During this time he has leadboth trips and camps for the VancouverSection. Jay has served on the sectionexecutive as well as chairing the FMCBC.New Awards ...GoodVolunteers Take Us to the Top!Photo by Clive CorderyJay has represented the ACC VancouverSection, ACC National and all mountaineersto the B.C. Government for conservationof the mountain environment. Jay was theACC rep. and co-chair of the Recreation andConservation Committee of the Federationof Mountain Clubs of British Columbia(FMCBC) for over 15 years. His effortscontributed to the FMCBC addressingmany of the access and environmental issuesfacing the government of British Columbiain the past two decades.SHELLEY McKINLAY - Saskatchewan Section(joined ACC 1987)Shelley was instrumental in formingthe current Saskatchewan Section of theAlpine Club of Canada. She has held severalnews on two fronts: The National Board of Directors has approved twonew awards within the Club’s awards structure, and the deadline foraward nominations for 2002 has been extended to March 1, 2002.Regarding the new awards:The ACC Service Award will recognise members who have made a contribution tothe Club in one or more areas at the section and/or national levels. Note that the existingDistinguished Service Award is being retained to continue recognising those memberswhose service contributions to the Club have been more sustained over a longer period oftime.The ACC Leader Award will recognise members who have demonstratedmountaineering or ski mountaineering leadership at the section and/or national levels.The existing Silver Rope for Leadership Award will continue to be reserved for memberswho have given a long term and high level of leadership to the Club or Section.Nominations for these and all other ACC awards for this year can be submitted to theNational Office until March 1, 2002. Following this date, the ACC Awards Committeewill review all nominations submitted and make its recommendations to the nationalBoard of Directors. The Board will then make the final decisions, with the approvedawards being presented at the May 11, 2002 AGM in Vancouver (or mailed out in Mayto those recipients who can’t make it to the AGM). Thanks to all Awards Committeevolunteers for their efforts: Tom Haslam-Jones, Montreal; Paul Geddes (Chair), Toronto;Dave McCormick, Saskatoon; Rod Plasman, Canmore; Bev Bendell, Canmore; and MikeThompson, Vancouver.Full information and award nomination forms are available on the ACC nationalwebsite at www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/awards.

positions on the executive and is currentlythe section’s Activities Coordinator. Shelleyencourages members at all levels to becomeinvolved in all aspects of the Club’s activities,from volunteering at local fundraisers toleading skills clinics to participating inleadership courses and leading multi-daytrips. Shelley, herself, sets an example foreveryone to follow with her energy andenthusiasm.Shelley leads several trips each year,including a women’s climbing weekend. Shehas also been Camp Manager for NationalCamps. As well, every two years Shelleymanages to co-organize and co-lead anexpedition to the Himalayas. She was thefirst Canadian woman to summit BroadPeak in Pakistan, and this surely is proof ofher skills and commitment.PETER MUIR - Manitoba Section(joined ACC 1991)Another multi-talented member, Peterhas been co-VP Activities (with Cam Roeof Calgary), is now VP Access/Environmentand chair of the legal committee, and hasbeen both the Secretary and Chair of theManitoba Section. Peter has volunteered ascamp manager for many national camps,including the Japanese Mount Alberta campin 2000. Peter participated in the 1998summer North Face Leadership programand was on the 1992 Mount Manitobaexpedition. At the Section level, Peternegotiated the placement of the Section’sclimbing wall on the Winnipeg army baseproperty, contributed to the Trip LeadersHandbook and has lead a number of sectionclub climbs.CAM ROE - Calgary Section(joined ACC 1982)Cam has become an energetic andinvaluable asset to the club. A longtimecontributor to the activities of the CalgarySection, Cam became a skilled and trustedtrip leader for the section early on underthe tutelage of his father, Rick Roe. CamA.O. Wheeler Legacy AwardAtthe Guides Ball last October, the A.O. Wheeler Legacy Award was presented toHeather Mortimer for her outstanding contributions to the Club over severaldecades. She joined in 1977 and has since served the Club well in many capacities.Starting in 1980, Heather was the Membership Secretary of the Calgary Section; she was aco-organizer of the 1982, 1986 and 1989 Mountain Leadership conferences; she served onthe Huts Committee; and she organized all the food for the 1989 Bow Hut constructionproject (some 2,500 meals!). Heather was awarded the Distinguished Service Award in1989.Her greatest contribution, however, was serving as the head of the Mountain GuidesBall (MGB) Committee, which she ran for each of its first eleven years. During yearswhen club revenues were desperately required, the MGB contributed over $180,000 toclub coffers. The MGB also provides a wonderful opportunity for over 350 members ofthe Canadian climbing community to come together once a year in a festive, celebratoryatmosphere and honour its leaders. Over the years proceeds from the MGB have gonetowards the Canadian Alpine Centre, the Environment Fund, Alpine Club of Canadapublications, the Elizabeth Parker Hut renovations, capital projects such as the CanmoreClubhouse, and to the Leadership Development Program.Heather spearheaded the entire development of the MGB and is largely responsiblefor its continued success. Had she ever lost interest in continuing to promote and supportthe event, it may not have continued. Even now, after 11 years of promoting, pampering,cajoling, negotiating, nurturing, and caring, she still has the time and interest to sit onorganizing committee meetings and is excited about the upcoming Ball on October 26,2002.Congratulations, Heather!acted as vice-chairman and chairman forthe section during the early 1990’s. Withhis usual wit, he also organized the annualphotography contest for many years. Atthe national level, Cam has served inthe following roles: VP Activities 1996until present; Chair, Canadian CenterFor Mountaineering and Board MemberCanadian Alpine Center, both from 1998until present. As well, Cam has managedmany national summer and winter camps aswell as regularly contributing to the GeneralMountaineer Camp as an amateur leader.DAVID TOOLE - Montreal Section(joined ACC 1989)Dave Toole was active in the MontrealSection first as Secretary for three years andthen as Chair for three years, in the period1989-1995. As Secretary he was active inobtaining documentation from the State ofNew York on the original establishment ofMontreal Alpine Club Inc., which ownsKeene Farm (The original documents werelost in the farmhouse fire of about 1972).During his tenure of the Chair he led a weeklong ski trip in the Chic-Choc mountainsof the Gaspe, besides regularizing several ofthe Section policies on member activities.At the National level, David has performedthe following roles: VP Services 1993-1994,Secretary 1994-1998, 2000-2001, andTreasurer 1998-2001. He has also chairednumerous permanent and ad-hoccommittees in these roles, the most notablebeing the Finance Committee and theEndowment Fund Committee. He iscurrently the Club's President.Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 19

Financial GrantsToall those who applied for a grantfrom the Club’s Endowment,Environment, Jen Higgins and Helly HansenAdventure funds prior to the Jan. 31deadline: the announcement regardingsuccessful grant applications for this yearwill be made on March 15, 2002.To all those who wanted to apply, butdidn’t: too bad, start thinking about yourplans for 2003; and sometime prior to thedeadline for next year’s grant applications(January 31/03), check out the ACC websiteat www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/funds forinformation and application forms.Also, please keep in mind two otherupcoming opportunities for financialsupport from the ACC:● the deadline for applications to the KarlNagy Memorial Scholarship for this yearis February 28, 2002. See the article onthis page regarding this new scholarshipcommemorating an outstanding mountainKarl Nagy Memorial ScholarshipUntilhis death on August 29,2000, Karl Nagy set anoutstanding example as a mountain guide,instructor and climbing partner. He waswell known for his leadership and technicalskills, making him the mentor of many anaspiring guide, amateur leader and noviceclimber. Karl was admired and cherishedfor his exuberant attitude and love of themountain environment in which he playedand worked so enthusiastically.The Karl Nagy Memorial Scholarshipwas established in 2001 to provide ACMGcandidates and ACC aspiring amateurleaders with the opportunity to developtheir skills and abilities within the structureof the ACC General MountaineeringCamp. Each winter, the ScholarshipSelection Committee will review all ofthe applications received and approveone individual to be sponsored for theattendance at a designated week of theGeneral Mountaineering Camp. Thesuccessful candidate will observe theCamp proceedings and assist the Camp’sguides and amateur leaders throughoutthe week.ACC amateur leaders and ACMGcandidates will be given priority inalternating years. Applications will beaccepted from aspiring ACC amateurleaders for the 2002 GMC. The funds forthis scholarship are provided on an annualbasis from the proceeds of the MountainGuides’ Ball, which is jointly organizedby The Alpine Club of Canada andthe Association of Canadian MountainGuides.guide and friend. For more information on the scholarship, go to www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/activities/leadership● if you’re an Alberta teen and dream of attending the national “Mountaineering 101/201” camp July 28-31/02, consider applying for a JimColpitts Fund grant. The application deadline is May 31/02. See the ACC website for full details about the camp and the grant.Subscribe toBack Country ®magazineor visit www.backcountrymagazine.comAdventure ski & board featuresEquipment reviewsTechnique tips, tour guidesIn Canada1 year – 4 issues: $19.50 U.S.2 years+ – 9 issues: $39 U.S.www.backcountrymagazine.com1-888-424-585720 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002

The Board of DirectorsMeeting Highlightsby Rod Plasman, SecretaryOnOctober 20 & 21, the ACCBoard of Directors held theirsemi-annual meeting. The Board consists oftwenty-five voting members: eight membersof the national executive plus a representativefrom each of the ACC’s seventeen sections.There was a huge amount of materialcovered at the meeting and several decisionswere made. There was a strong senseof commitment shown by everyone tothe common goal of the ACC and thespirit of friendship and cooperation wastremendous.Some of the highlights from the boardmeeting include:1. Awards: The A.O. Wheeler Legacy Awardwas approved for Heather Mortimer.The board also approved in principal,the creation of two new awards, detailsof which are in a separate article onpage 18. Paul Geddes, the TorontoSection Rep, was appointed Chair of theAwards Committee.2. Facilities: Facilities presented new bookingpolicies for all huts owned andadministered by the ACC.3. Activities: Another successful summer ofactivities occurred. The 2001 GMC had150 attendees. Plans are well under wayfor the 2002 GMC which will be held inthe Trident Range of B.C.4. Publications: The Publication Committeehas produced the Hans Schwarz bookletfor the 2001 Guides Ball.5. Finances: The ACC is again on track tomeet its financial projection for the year2001. The budget for the fiscal year 2002was passed with a break even bottomline. Part of this budget approved anincrease to member dues as follows:6. Student Outdoor Club: Due to the stateof the economy and the events ofSeptember 11, Patagonia has decidedto end their support of the StudentOutdoor Club Program. However, theprogram will continue on with supportcoming from individual sections.7. International Year of Mountains: A lot ofdiscussion was given to ways the ACCcould participate in IYM events. UIAAPresident, Ian McNaught-Davis has beenasked to be the Patron of the GuidesBall for 2002. A committee has beenformed with Mike Mortimer as chair toinvestigate further IYM initiatives.8. ACC 2006 Centennial: Planning is wellunder way for the 2006 celebration ofour centennial. The UIAA will hold theirGeneral Assembly in Canada in 2006.9. Adoption of Ethical Fundraising andAccountability Code: The ACC adopted the“Ethical Fundraising and AccountabilityCode”. This opens the door to furtherdonations from various philanthropicorganizations.10. Conclusion: In spite of the turmoil in theworld today, the ACC is in fine shape.Finances are in order and enthusiasm ishigh. As for 2002 — bring it on!ACC Board Calendar of Events for 2002April 13-14 Executive Committee Meeting (Canmore)May 11-12 Board of Directors Meeting (Vancouver)May 11 Annual General Meeting (Vancouver)ACC National Membership Fee Increase effectiveJanuary 1, 2002:● Single Membership by $3● Family Membership by $4● Junior Membership by $1Some sections also increased their feesJanuary 1st. Ask your section for details.Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 21

An exciting new sport is developing in Europe: Competition Ski Mountaineering. The ACC is a supporter of this and began canvassingthe Canadian ski community during December 2001 to gauge the level of interest in ski mountaineering competition in order to assemblea two-person ‘national team’ as requested by the ISMC, to compete at the upcoming World Championships, January 23 - 27, in SerreChevalier, France. Enthusiasm ran high, but short notice combined with the fact that strong skiers are usually working skiers, meantthat many nominees found themselves unable to free up the time required to travel and compete. After much last minute arranging, PtorSpricenieks of Whistler and Rich Haywood of Squamish agreed to be the Canadian National Ski Mountaineering Competition Teamfor 2002. Wish our boys luck! You can find out more about the world championships, and ski mountaineering competitions generally,through www.ski-mountaineering.org. You can support and encourage the team effort through David Dornian, Chair, Canadian SkiMountaineering Competition Committee c/o The Alpine Club of Canada’s National Office (address on page 3).Terrible Weather Doesn’t Stop Braveryand Enthusiasmby Ian McNaughtDavis, President UIAAReprinted with permission fromThe Journal of the UIAAEuropean Ski MountaineeringThe Competitions were held in Jacain Spain over the weekend of March 3,2001. As it turned out this weekend was oneof the worst times for weather that I haveever spent in the mountains. For four daysthe rain was torrential and non stop with acloud level not far above the village. I cameto the conclusion that the rains in Spain donot fall mainly in the plains.I had often wondered how such acompetition could possibly take place inthose conditions and that it did actually takeplace was a tribute to all the participants,the volunteers from the ISMC, the GuardaCivil and from the staff of the resort itself.Quite soon it became quite clear thatthe original route covering several summitswould be impossible in impenetrable fogso a new track had to be laid out andsupervised to climb up a mountain and skiback down it, no lifts, no piste. The resortitself had plenty of snow but as the coldheavy rain fell it became almost unskiable.But we were optimists. At 7:30 AM we stoodin our waterproofs watching the competitorsarrive. We cowered out of the wind andrain in what little shelter there was; crowdedwith the participants, trainers, and a fewbrave supporters.Even some of the women competitorswere chanting for a cancellation, which Ithought quite smart, but it turned out thatthey were only joking.At 8:00 AM the juniors left, running upthe easy angled slope to the steeper slopesabove, the freezing rain driving throughtheir thin, colourful lycra vests. They werealready chilled by the wait for the start.Fifteen minutes later the women left withlots of cheering from the small crownof supporters. Half an hour later the22 Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002seniors left looking rather better clad toface the inclement conditions than theirpredecessors. They disappeared into theclouds and we huddled on the veranda of abuilding trying to keep warm to await theirreturn.The regulations of ski mountaineeringsay that you should have two or three layersof clothing. I had six: thermal vest, woolshirt, wool pullover, fleece jacket, down skijacket and waterproof and I was cold andwet. I almost felt sorry for the competitorsand had difficulty imagining the conditionsabove.It wasn’t too long before I found out. Theyoungsters arrived wet, cold and distressedand collapsed into the arms of the line ofvolunteers awaiting to remove their skis,wrap them in a blanket and carry them intothe warming room to be rubbed down andfed hot drinks. More and more arrived andwere handled with care and kindness andonly five had to be taken to the clinic torecover. As they all returned careful checkswere made of numbers and finally theseniors arrived looking more comfortable intheir waterproofs.Photo by: Jaca PressGiven the conditions the organisationcould not have been better. There was painand suffering but they all recovered to cometo hear the final results and collect their cupsand medals. The presentation ceremonydidn’t quite go as planned and the awardswere in one corner of a large room and therostrum in another. There were delays andthe French team went home, sadly leavinggaps on the winners platform. But thiswas all forgotten as the Belgian team cameforward. Because they had skied togetherand held hands as they crossed the finishingline, they all ended up first and insisted onclimbing and balancing on the number oneplatform to be presented with their medals.Their humour and enthusiasm delightedeveryone.It was a great test for all, especiallythe competitors and the organisers. Theconditions were exceptionally bad, but theshow went on and it was a credit to everyonethere that it was all done in a spirit oftolerance and good humour. It is, however,better on a sunny day.

National Office Newsby Bruce Keith, Executive DirectorTheNational Office has been abeehive of activity over thepast six months - never a dull moment! Andin the midst of it all, there have been somenoteworthy changes to staff and their roles.After almost 15 years with the ACC,Leslie DeMarsh decided to move on lastOctober. What a loss (for us)! The things sheaccomplished during her tenure are muchtoo long to mention here. Suffice it tosay that she is sorely missed, not just bythe staff, but also by the many, manyACC friends she’s made through the years.Good luck to Leslie in her new job asthe Executive Director of the CanadianReflexology Association (based in Calgary).Joining us in December, from her workwith the YWCA in Banff, is AudreyWheeler, our new “Director, ClubPrograms”. Audrey is a Rocky MountainSection member, a resident of Canmore anda volunteer for various community events.Prior to joining the staff, she organised thehighly successful Rocky Mountain Sectionwork party (under Peter Fuhrmann) thatput in a marked trail to the Abbot Hut(see article on page 5). She is active inthe outdoors, has a special passion forthe mountains, and is looking forward toher increased involvement with the Cluband the mountaineering community. Forthose of you familiar with Club history, hername probably sounds familiar. However,she claims no relation (at least not yet) tothe Club’s first President, A. O. Wheeler(1906-1910). Welcome aboard, Audrey!Together with these changes, NancyHansen has taken on new responsibilitiesin her usual quiet and competent way.As the new “Director, Facilities andMountaineering”, she now has NationalOffice responsibility for ACC nationalcamps and trips in addition to managingthe Clubhouse and huts. Yes, her cuprunneth over, but she continues to receiveoutstanding support from a variety of staffmembers: Shannon Dick, our trips/campscoordinator; Dan Verrall, Claude Lauzonand others in our facilities maintenance area;and Luther McLain and the Clubhousereception/operations staff.Josee Larochelle continues to holdthings together as our “Office Manager/Membership Coordinator”, ably assisted byTracy Hedge. Rounding off the groupare Suzan Chamney, our part-time“Development and CommunicationsManager”, and Kevin Lohka, “Finance andInformation Technology Manager”.I am extremely pleased with the way allthe staff have pulled together over the lastseveral months to “get the job done”. Ourfirst priority is to serve you, so please letus know if there’s something we can do foryou.We all wish you a safe and enjoyable2002!Photographers …Do you have great pictures of your alpine adventures?Send them to us and Win some Great Draw Prizes!TheNational Office is building an archive of ACC huts, people, activities,Canadian mountain scenery, and historic mountain pictures; and we needyour help! If you have photographs or slides that you would be proud to share and willingto allow us to use in ACC slide shows, brochures, books, and other promotional material,please send them to the address below.We will put the names of all contributors into a hat and draw the names of five luckywinners. Each winner will receive a complimentary two-year renewal of their current ACCmembership, a $25 gift certificate for ACC merchandise, an ACC Alpine Huts book, anda beautiful 2002 International Year of the Mountains calendar.Please submit your pictures to: ACC Photo Contest, P.O. Box 8040, Canmore, AB,T1W 2T8. Please be sure to include the photographer’s name, content information such asthe location, names of people, and approximate date of each photograph, and your returnaddress so that we can return them!Le FestivalD’escaladeSur Glace DeSaint-Bonifaceby André Mahé, St. Boniface SectionSt. Boniface Section of theThe ACC will be hosting its secondannual Ice Climbing Festival andCompetition on February 15, 16 & 17,2002. The competition will be held onCanada’s highest free standing ice tower,located on the banks of the Red River inthe heart of Winnipeg. Two events willbe features: Speed and Difficulty. Greatprizes, ice climbing clinics and social eventswill make this ice festival a truly funexperience. We hope to see you there! Formore information visit us at our web site:www.cesb.netCLASSIFIED ADSCampbell Icefield ChaletSelf catered groupsDiscounted rates in springNew chalet for 2003 seasonPhone: (403) 673-2198E-mail: lomas@telusplanet.netClassifi ed Ads:Up to 25 words for $100 per issue$75 for Club MembersEmail your ad to: Gazette@telusplanet.netor mail to the address on page 3.Photo by Michael DithlevsenAlpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Winter 2002 23