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Colour Chronicle - Mar 2011 - Clariant

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Number 1 | <strong>2011</strong><br />

<strong>Colour</strong> <strong>Chronicle</strong><br />

A <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited Publication<br />

for Textile, Leather and Paper<br />

32 nd year of publication


colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong><br />

Contents<br />

Textile 3<br />

Pad-Moist<br />

Wool/Silk Blend<br />

New Effect Lables 2010<br />

Q&A 12<br />

Textile - An Essential, Rich Heritage<br />

Leather 14<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s customers are well-prepared for<br />

NMP-free future<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Easy white Tan to set new industry standard<br />

New Arrivals 17<br />

Inside View 18<br />

Gleanings from press 19<br />

2 colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


textile<br />

“Pad-Moist”<br />

A New Process for Dyeing<br />

Pad-Moist is characterized by the fact that no ancillary<br />

substances such as urea, silicate, and salt are required.<br />

Reactive dyestuff from “CLARIANT” which is highly reactive<br />

and highly fixative like Drimaren K and Drimaren HF-CD series<br />

can be used for Pad-Moist process. Significance of continuous<br />

dyeing with reactive dyes is to achieve economically efficient<br />

process of dyeing.<br />

Thermex modules for Maximum speed at different fabric weigh<br />

the Pad Moist process 100 g/m 2 200 g/m 2 300 g/m 2 100 g/m 2<br />

B Thermex B Fabric<br />

content 34 m 17 m/mm 14 m/mm – –<br />

C Thermex C Fabric<br />

content 40 m<br />

24 m/mm 21 m/mm 14 m/mm 10 m/mm<br />

Pad-Moist Process<br />

The fabric passes through the THERMEX hot flue with an air<br />

temperature of 110–130°C and a relative humidity of 25–30%<br />

inside the each chamber. Under these conditions the fabric<br />

is dried and at the same time dyestuff fixation takes place at<br />

68–71°C (The wet bulb temperature). This is the actual fixation<br />

condition for the dyestuff.<br />

The wet bulb temperature = the fabric temperature = the<br />

fixation temperature<br />

The thermex hot flue, utilizes evaporizing moisture from the<br />

wet fabric and here steam is injected at start up, to achieve the<br />

required degree of humidity needed for fixation.<br />

Use of a moisture meter and an exhaust fan ensures the fixed<br />

degree of humidity.<br />

Pad- Moist: Drying Profile in side the hot flue<br />

B B<br />

B C<br />

C C<br />

B B C<br />

B C C<br />

C C C<br />

34 m/mm<br />

41 m/mm<br />

48 m/mm<br />

58 m/mm<br />

65 m/mm<br />

72 m/mm<br />

29 m/mm 19 m/mm 14 m/mm<br />

34 m/mm 29 m/mm 24 m/mm<br />

35 m/mm 23 m/mm 17 m/mm<br />

41 m/mm 37 m/mm 27 m/mm<br />

42 m/mm 27 m/mm 20 m/mm<br />

48 m/mm 42 m/mm 31 m/mm<br />

46 m/mm 30 m/mm 22 m/mm<br />

58 m/mm 51 m/mm 38 m/mm<br />

54 m/mm 35 m/mm 26 m/mm<br />

65 m/mm 57 m/mm 42 m/mm<br />

63 m/mm 41 m/mm 30 m/mm<br />

72 m/mm 64 m/mm 47 m/mm<br />

Pad-Moist: Types of chamber, diameter and its importance<br />

The importance of the chamber type and width (Narrow,<br />

wider) of the M/c to decide the productive and types of fabrics<br />

processed. There are five types of chamber type A, B, C, DB and<br />

DC. Chamber type A is old version.<br />

“short loop”<br />

“long loop”<br />

Roller diameter<br />

Roller diameter<br />

140 mm 180 mm 180 mm 140 mm<br />

Thermex B 34.5 m 30.0 m Thermex B 34.5 m 30.5 m<br />

Thermex C 51.0 m 45.0 m Thermex B 34.5 m 30.5 m<br />

Thermex DB 57.5 m 49.0 m Thermex DB 57.5 m 49.0 m<br />

Thermex DC 85.5 m 72. 5 m Thermex DC 85.5 m 72.5 m<br />

Pad-Moist: Why Drimaren K <br />

High reactivity: Rapid fixation and high dye-fiber linkage stability<br />

under both alkaline and acidic conditions.<br />

Most of the dye is fixed while the fabric is still wet, therefore,<br />

no chance of migration issues (Frosting, face-back and centre<br />

selvedge).<br />

No possibility of dye-fiber linkage being destroyed during the<br />

subsequent drying / final fixation phase.<br />

Simple washing off procedure, no need to neutralize before<br />

soaping.<br />

Similar reactivity therefore on-tone fixation behavior.<br />

Very high reproducibility. Complete on-tone fixation is<br />

achieved even when the fabric isn’t completely dry (robust to<br />

process variables).<br />

Only a simple alkali system, soda ash is necessary.<br />

High pad liquor stability even at high ambient temperatures.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong> 3


textile<br />

Pad-Moist: Drimaren K Ternary for high light fastness green :<br />

Drimaren Green HF-5BL<br />

Blacks:<br />

Drimaren Yellow K-2R / Drimaren Yellow HF-CD<br />

Drimaren Orange K-GL<br />

Drimaren navy HF-GN<br />

Pad-Moist : Alkali Recommendation<br />

Pad-Moist: Drimaren K Dye selection<br />

Dyestuff selection:<br />

Ternary for light shade and high light fastness:<br />

Drimaren yellow K-2R / Drimaren Orange K-3R / Drimaren Yellow<br />

HF-CD<br />

Drimaren Red K-4BL / Drimaren Red K-8B /<br />

Drimaren Blue K-2RL / Drimaren Aquamaren HF-CD<br />

Ternary for medium to dark shade<br />

Drimaren yellow K-2R / Drimaren Orange K-3R / Drimaren Yellow<br />

HF-CD<br />

Drimaren Red K-8B / Drimaren Red CL-5B / Drimaren Red HF-B<br />

Drimaren Blue HF-2B / Drimaren Navy HF-GN<br />

Ternary for green shade:<br />

Drimaren Yellow K-4G<br />

Drimaren Blue K-2RL<br />

Drimaren Turquoise K-2B<br />

Drimaren HF/CL dyes g/l 0-10 10-20 20-30 30-40 40-50<br />

Soda Ash g/l 20 20 20 20 20<br />

Caustic Soda 35ºBé ml/l – 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0<br />

Drimeren HF/CL dyes g/l 50-60 60-70 20-80 80-100 Black<br />

Soda Ash g/l 20 20 20 20 20<br />

Caustic Soda 36ºBé ml/l 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 10.0<br />

Advantages<br />

Highly reactive dyes (Drimaren K) are used and thus requiring<br />

just 20 to 30 gpl sodium carbonate.<br />

Lower water cost resulted from the higher degree of fixation,<br />

thus lower hydrolysis per kg of fabric.<br />

Lower steam consumption (70–75 % of the conventional<br />

process).<br />

The higher degree of fixation and the absence of auxiliaries<br />

lead to a lower Effluent pollution.<br />

Softer handle (no face back).<br />

Flexibility of batch size.<br />

Less expensive process.<br />

4<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


textile<br />

SILK STRUCTURE<br />

Wool/Silk Blend<br />

Complexity in Dyeing<br />

Chemical Structure<br />

Silk is chemically similar to wool because amino groups are<br />

intergral component of both fibres.<br />

Therefore, silk can be dyed with the same dyes as wool.<br />

Fiber Properties<br />

In wool, three types of sideway links present – cystine links,<br />

salt links and hydrogen bonds.<br />

In silk two links are presents – many hydrogen bonds and few<br />

salt links.<br />

Because of these differences, properties of wool and silk<br />

differ, though both are polyamide from amino acids.<br />

R<br />

H<br />

O<br />

R<br />

H<br />

O<br />

N<br />

N<br />

N<br />

N<br />

O<br />

R<br />

H<br />

H R O<br />

H<br />

R<br />

O<br />

H<br />

R<br />

O<br />

N<br />

N<br />

N<br />

N<br />

WOOL STRUCTURE<br />

R<br />

CH<br />

H O R H O R<br />

CH<br />

R<br />

Properties Silk Wool<br />

Specific Gravita 1.37 1.00<br />

Moisture Adsorption 10.5 15.0<br />

Textile Strength 5 1.5<br />

Fibril Size 0.8 - 1.4 2 - 4.0<br />

Alkaline Stability good moderate<br />

Acid Statibilty medium good<br />

Crystallinity high amorphous<br />

Iso electric Point 5.0 - 5.5 4.5 - 4.8<br />

Amino Groups / gm of Fiber 0.25 0.80<br />

Reduction Potential minimal high<br />

Fiber Surface large small<br />

CO<br />

NH<br />

NH<br />

CH<br />

CO<br />

CH 2<br />

- +<br />

CO NH 3<br />

O<br />

(CH ) 2 4<br />

NH<br />

CH<br />

CO<br />

CO<br />

NH<br />

R CH<br />

CH R<br />

CO<br />

NH<br />

CH<br />

Salt Bridge<br />

NH<br />

Cystine Bridge<br />

CH 2<br />

S S CH 2<br />

CH<br />

CO<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong> 5


textile title<br />

Dyeing Parameters<br />

Dyeing process for wool<br />

Possibilities to improve the tone-in-tone effect<br />

ºC<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

Check pH<br />

x % Dyes<br />

1.5º C/min<br />

45-60 min<br />

2% Lyogen WSN.<br />

pH 4.0 - 4.5 with Acetic Acid + 2.0 g/l Opticid PSI<br />

2º C/min<br />

WOOL<br />

acid<br />

high<br />

high<br />

low<br />

pH<br />

Starting<br />

Temperature<br />

Dyeing<br />

Temperature<br />

Salt<br />

neutral<br />

low<br />

low<br />

high<br />

SILK<br />

20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160<br />

Both silk and wool are natural polyamide fibers, the dyeing<br />

properties are similar to other polyamides fibers.<br />

Thickness of wool fiber is around 2.0 to 4.0 den whereas silk<br />

is about 0.8 -1.4 den. Hence due to these fine fibrils, the<br />

colour yield is on an average 50% of that on wool.<br />

Silk dyes deeper at lower temperatures and wool dyes deeper<br />

at higher temperatures.<br />

Dyeing at a low temperature and neutral pH favors a deeper<br />

dyeing of silk.<br />

Dye Recommendation<br />

Since both fiber components are dyed with the same dyestuff<br />

class<br />

Tone-in-Tone effects are difficult.<br />

Contrasting two color effects are not possible.<br />

Wool / Silk blends are mainly dyed with:<br />

a) Optilan MF - dyestuffs<br />

b) Lanasyn F - dyestuffs<br />

c) Lanasyn M - dyestuffs<br />

6<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


textile<br />

Optilan MF<br />

Standard combination recommended<br />

Optilan G. Yellow Mf-RL<br />

Optilan Red MF-GRLN<br />

Optilan Blue MF-GL<br />

Additional shades<br />

Optilan Yellow MF-2GLA<br />

Optilan Scarlet MF-GL<br />

Optilan Dk Red MF-BR<br />

Optilan Brill Red MF-BG<br />

Optilan Blue MF-2RLA<br />

Optilan Navy MF-RLD<br />

Optilan Black MF-B<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong> 7


textile<br />

Combination Shades<br />

Combination shades on Wool/Silk Blends<br />

(52/48) Fibres with Lanasyn M dyes<br />

Mustard Brown<br />

Rich Navy<br />

Chemical Selection<br />

Products Application Benefits<br />

Properties<br />

Lyogen WSN Liq Levelling Effect Enforces a slow and even rate of absorption<br />

which results in excellent pentration and level<br />

dyeing.<br />

Opticid PSD Liq Conc Acid Buffer Keeps the pH constant during the whole<br />

dyeing process , thus ensuring an excellent<br />

reproducibility of the dyeing.<br />

Optifix EC Liq Formaldehyde-free Formaldehyde –free fixative for dyeings and<br />

fixative<br />

prints with acid and metal complex dyes<br />

Navy<br />

Classic Brown<br />

General Precaution<br />

Blend ratio is generally ranging from 5- 50% of silk.<br />

Silk used in blends should be degummed before blending.<br />

Type of wool, quality and pretreatment also responsible for the dye uptake.<br />

A compromise on dyeing temperature must be reached to optimise tone in tone<br />

effects.<br />

Glaubers salt retards the dye uptake on wool in favour of silk.<br />

Ammonia wash followed by treatment with Optifix EC is recommended<br />

to achieve optimum Fastness levels.<br />

Olive<br />

8<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


textile<br />

New effect labels 2010<br />

Communicating textile effects<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> is offering a new range of labels<br />

to communicate the functional effects.<br />

Our first generation of labels are being<br />

replaced and expanded. The new labels<br />

help to distinguish at-a-glance benefits and<br />

make the effects visible to the end customer<br />

adding value to the offered end articles.<br />

What’s new about our labels<br />

They distinguish between apparel and<br />

interior.<br />

They are more modern and value<br />

adding than the first generation.<br />

They can be used more flexible with<br />

the help of photos, we now can offer<br />

15 labels for apparel and 11 labels for<br />

interior end products.<br />

Labels with Repellency and Stain<br />

release effects are available with<br />

marketing support<br />

Customer<br />

information with<br />

effect labels<br />

conventional C8 chemistry as well as<br />

with PFOA free* C6 chemistry. These<br />

have the claim “Preferred Technology”<br />

to communicate that.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> supports you from the first idea<br />

to the final product<br />

design &<br />

development<br />

Moisture Management (Apparel)<br />

Effective Moisture Management for<br />

sportswear or lingerie which keeps you<br />

skin dry.<br />

The garment will stay soft and<br />

breathable.<br />

Feel the long lasting comfort.<br />

Hydry (Apparel)<br />

Combination of Hygiene protection and<br />

quick Drying.<br />

test & bulk trial<br />

Wicks moisture away from skin<br />

Odor control.<br />

Provides durable sensational freshness<br />

and well-being.<br />

Easy Wear (Apparel)<br />

Easy to iron.<br />

Garment will keep its shape.<br />

Creasing and wrinkling of the garment<br />

is minimized.<br />

Easy Wear : First impression matters!<br />

Easy Care & Comfort (Apparel)<br />

Easy to iron.<br />

Minimizes wrinkling and keeps garment<br />

in shape.<br />

Excellent moisture absorption.<br />

Durable effect even after multiple<br />

washes.<br />

The perfect combination of easy care and<br />

moisture transport<br />

Wash & Wear (Apparel)<br />

Just wash the clothes and wear them<br />

afterwards.<br />

No ironing of the garment is required<br />

because of the wrinkle-free surface.<br />

Saves time, work and energy – offering<br />

comfort and care<br />

product release<br />

quality control<br />

production<br />

Premium Eco Care (Apparel & Interior)<br />

Excellent easy to iron effect.<br />

Ecologically responsible technology.<br />

Improved fabric strength.<br />

Unique soft handle, fabric remains<br />

breathable.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong> 9


textile<br />

Environmental friendly chemicals and<br />

processes makes fabric more resistant and<br />

prolong the life-cycle of the garment<br />

Repellence Protection<br />

(Apparel & Interior)<br />

Keeps garments dry and clean.<br />

Repels most acqueous and oily<br />

substances.<br />

Natural anti-adhere and cleaning effect.<br />

Just let it slide off – no need for frequent<br />

washing!<br />

Repellence Protection<br />

(Apparel & Interior)<br />

Preferred Technology<br />

Preferred and Best Available<br />

Technology.<br />

Incorporated C6 PFOA free<br />

chemistry*.<br />

Keeps garment dry and clean.<br />

Repels most aqueous and oily<br />

substances.<br />

Natural anti-adhere and cleaning effect.<br />

No performance loss in comparison to<br />

classical Repellency Protection<br />

* below limit of detection<br />

Rapid Dry (Apparel)<br />

Fabric dries more quickly.<br />

Water absorbtion of the garment is<br />

reduced.<br />

Durable effect.<br />

Dry quickly and remain comfortable<br />

Soil & Stain Release<br />

(Apparel & Interior)<br />

Reduces the fabric’s absorbtion of soil<br />

and stains.<br />

Significantly improves the release of<br />

stains during laundry.<br />

Fabric remains breathable.<br />

Keeps performing after repeated<br />

washing.<br />

Soil & Stain Release<br />

(Apparel & Interior)<br />

Preferred Technology<br />

Preferred and Best Available<br />

Technology.<br />

Incorporated C6 PFOA free<br />

chemistry*.<br />

Reduces the fabric’s absorbtion of soil<br />

and stain marks.<br />

Significantly improves the release of<br />

stains during laundry.<br />

Fabric remains breathable.<br />

Keeps performing after repeated<br />

washing.<br />

No performance loss in comparison<br />

to classical Soil & Stain Release<br />

application<br />

* below limit of detection<br />

Easy Clean & Comfort<br />

(Apparel & Interior)<br />

Easy removal of stains.<br />

Excellent moisture absorption.<br />

Improved drying properties.<br />

Durable effect.<br />

Caring for your comfort : Clean & Dry<br />

Care 4 Comfort<br />

(Apparel & Interior)<br />

Minimizes stains by repelling water<br />

and oil.<br />

Easy removal of stains during laundry.<br />

Preserves breathability of the garment.<br />

Keeps garment in shape.<br />

Four effects ensure your comfort!<br />

Mosquito Protection (Apparel)<br />

Keeps mosquitoes, ticks and horseflies<br />

from landing; reduces stings and bites.<br />

Offers high permanency, protection and<br />

comfort without impact on the “Feel”<br />

and other finishes.<br />

For fishing, hiking, travelling and lots<br />

of other outdoor activities.<br />

Protect your skin from stings and skin<br />

irritation<br />

UV protection by Rayosan ® (Apparel)<br />

Helps to block the majority of UV rays.<br />

Provides a UPF of 30.<br />

Keeps fabric soft and breathable.<br />

Durable effect.<br />

Protecting your skin and health<br />

Cool & Dry (Interior)<br />

Wicks moisture away from skin.<br />

Dries more quickly.<br />

Stays soft and breathable.<br />

Keeps performing after washing.<br />

Keeps your skin dry, bringing you<br />

protection, comfort and care<br />

Easy Care (Interior)<br />

Easy to iron.<br />

Garment will keep its shape.<br />

Creasing and wrinkling of the garment<br />

is minimized.<br />

Easy wear : First impression matters!<br />

No – Iron (Interior)<br />

This fabric does not require ironing.<br />

Helps maintain a wrinkle-free surface.<br />

Allows you to just wash, dry and<br />

use-without further effort.<br />

Saves you time, work and energy..<br />

and brings more comfort to your life<br />

Premium Eco Care (Interior)<br />

Ecologically responsible technology.<br />

Improved fabric strength.<br />

Shrink control.<br />

Naturally soft.<br />

Enhance your life and use the earth’s<br />

resources responsibly<br />

10<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


q&a<br />

Textile – an Essential,<br />

Rich Heritage<br />

Mr. Sushil Kaul,<br />

President - Arvind Mills<br />

1. What are your views on the current<br />

scenario in the textile industry post<br />

recession<br />

The market and the market sentiments<br />

are very positive. Indian retail is growing<br />

rapidly at the rate of 30-35% and the<br />

growth opportunities are huge. Consumers<br />

want innovation and newness.<br />

2. With the present focus on sustainability,<br />

how do you propose to meet the<br />

requirements<br />

At this time it is important that we support<br />

our key partners all across globally. Our<br />

focus is going to be in domestic market<br />

with retail and brand business where you<br />

will see a major change in our thrust.<br />

3. Given your eminent position in the<br />

industry, what is your emphasis on<br />

innovation<br />

Innovation has a key role in any<br />

growth strategy. Currently in a year we<br />

are growing at a rate of around 20% which<br />

is quite significant. These growth plans<br />

can only be sustained when customers<br />

get consistent innovative products. This<br />

would mean that we need to continuously<br />

add and diversify our product offerings.<br />

As innovations go on continuously we<br />

are very watchful for their success in the<br />

market place. This is one of our key to the<br />

success as Raymond has always lived up to<br />

customer’s expectations.<br />

4. How do you propose to expand your<br />

global and retail business<br />

We are growing with key partners<br />

globally as well as in the domestic market.<br />

In the domestic market apart from working<br />

with brands, we are coming with B to C<br />

strategy which will poise us differently<br />

in the market. We have huge plans under<br />

implementation by opening 100 Arvind<br />

Exclusive Stores in next four years across<br />

the country where the product offerings<br />

would be highly personalized and consumer<br />

would get variety of options to shop.<br />

5. How do you envisage the growth<br />

of brands and their impact on textile<br />

business<br />

Last one year has seen great demand<br />

both from global as well as domestic Indian<br />

Brands for textiles. Indian retail market is<br />

growing at a rate of 30%. Internationally<br />

US, specially have made a come back<br />

from recession. China is equally getting<br />

competitive on costs. I personally feel<br />

that more and more brands will want to<br />

distribute their business globally rather<br />

than shifting to any single country.<br />

Currently the contribution of India in the<br />

global textile trading is low and thus with a<br />

vide product basket, there is huge potential<br />

for its growth possibility.<br />

6. How do you see the role of dyes and<br />

chemicals manufacturing companies like<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals in future to assist the<br />

textile industry<br />

The future of textile industry is based<br />

on innovation and converting innovation<br />

into commercial and feasible products.<br />

Today, consumer needs intelligent fabrics<br />

and there is a distinct change in the taste<br />

and life style of consumer. To enable<br />

and implement this synergy, the role of<br />

Companies like <strong>Clariant</strong> who have strong<br />

base on product innovation and R&D is<br />

going to be equally critical.<br />

7. What is your message to the textile<br />

industry<br />

The message to the industry is to<br />

remain positive and become strong on<br />

core competencies rather than worrying<br />

about the macro environment. We need to<br />

focus on speed of innovation, efficiencies<br />

and cost competitiveness. Indian domestic<br />

retail and brand business is going to grow<br />

and there is a huge potential for overall<br />

business expansion. For this growth, the<br />

country needs today leaders to encash<br />

this growth potential. As a country India<br />

should look forward to become one of<br />

the dominant player in the global textile<br />

market.<br />

12<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


leather<br />

LEATHER<br />

free<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s customers are<br />

well-prepared for NMP-free future<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s pioneering step, back in 2005 to offer N-Methylpyrrolidone-free (NMP-free)<br />

finishing products to the leather industry has ensured that its customers are well<br />

prepared for the December 2010 introduction of binding European Union (EU) legislation<br />

regarding the use of the solvent in leather.<br />

One of the leading suppliers of leather<br />

finishing chemicals, <strong>Clariant</strong> was<br />

among the first to begin research and<br />

development into the challenge to replace<br />

NMP. The solvent, which was previously<br />

valued for its beneficial effects for<br />

example on levelling and jet blackness,<br />

was reclassified by the State of California<br />

in June 2001 following toxicology reports<br />

and added to the list of substances known<br />

to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity.<br />

When NMP is used in leather finishing,<br />

almost 90% remains in the leather after<br />

drying. However the solvent is released<br />

over a long period of time, exposing the<br />

end consumer to its potentially harmful<br />

effects.<br />

In California, even minimum amounts<br />

of NMP in a product have to be labelled.<br />

For example, a vehicle instruction manual<br />

must include a warning label if a leather<br />

containing NMP has been used on the car<br />

seats.<br />

At the end of the transitional period in<br />

December 2010, NMP will be reclassified<br />

within the EU. Mixtures containing 5% or<br />

more of NMP must be labelled as toxic with<br />

all the Consequences for the customers<br />

in handling and regarding the emission<br />

limits by law. Even 0.1% of NMP must be<br />

listed in the safety data sheet. So leather<br />

processing companies are asking and will<br />

ask more and more for NMP-free leathers.<br />

“<strong>Clariant</strong> realised at an early stage that<br />

the use and acceptance of NMP would<br />

come to an end and that it would be a<br />

major challenge to replace it,” comments<br />

Dr. Ralph-Günther Blach, Head of<br />

<strong>Mar</strong>keting & Application Development of<br />

BU Leather Services of <strong>Clariant</strong>.<br />

“So in 2001 <strong>Clariant</strong> started a project<br />

for the replacement of NMP in all leather<br />

finishing products.<br />

A lot of different solutions were<br />

necessary to surmount the production<br />

and application problems for NMP-free<br />

products, but since 2005 our standard<br />

finishing products have been free of NMP<br />

and fulfil even the high quality demands<br />

and environmental requirements for<br />

automotive leather.”<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Aqualen ® topcoat range<br />

meets strict customer performance and<br />

processing requirements without the use<br />

of Phthalates, Alkylphenolethoxylates,<br />

and NMP, and with very low VOC levels.<br />

The high-performance topcoats, with low<br />

impact to the environment, are suitable for<br />

all kinds of applications, from glazed kid<br />

imitation to high-wear-resistant automotive<br />

leather.<br />

As a result of <strong>Clariant</strong>’s proactive<br />

stance on NMP removal and its on-going<br />

commitment to advancing sustainable<br />

leather finishing, the company has become<br />

a recognized specialist in this field. <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

representatives presented in-depth lectures<br />

at congresses at the LGR Gerberschule<br />

Reutlingen in Germany (<strong>Mar</strong>ch 2010) and<br />

the ALCA (American Leather Chemists<br />

Association) in Wisconsin/USA (June<br />

2010).<br />

14<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


leather<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s EasyWhite Tan to set<br />

new industry standard<br />

For those in the leather industry,<br />

certain words are instantly associated<br />

with tanning — just think of mimosa,<br />

quebracho or chrome — and now the<br />

industry will have another: Granofin ® ,<br />

specifically Granofin ® F-90. It is the key<br />

to the chemistry behind the launch of<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s new EasyWhite Tan, which will<br />

itself justify its place alongside Wet Blue<br />

and Wet White among tanners.<br />

With this outstanding technology, the<br />

tanning process becomes leaner, cleaner<br />

and safer than ever before. The use of<br />

salt during tanning is no longer necessary.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Granofin ® F-90 provides a more<br />

environmentally friendly and safer tanning<br />

process and will have major benefits for<br />

tanners, especially those producing leather<br />

upholstery for the automotive sector but<br />

also for other sectors, such as footwear.<br />

EasyWhite Tan is a totally new<br />

concept in chrome-free tanning; using<br />

Granofin ® F-90, an organic compound<br />

that is metal free, as well as aldehyde free,<br />

formaldehyde free and phenol free, its selfreactive<br />

hybrid performance means that<br />

the usual basification process in tanning<br />

and the earlier pickle stage, are completely<br />

eliminated.<br />

By removing two, and in some cases<br />

three, of the tanning processes required<br />

under present day systems, EasyWhite<br />

Tan can reduce production time by at least<br />

six hours and makes the tanning process<br />

extremely simple. It also reduces waste,<br />

and any waste that is generated is inert<br />

in the environment and has no inhibitory<br />

effect on micro-organism activity.<br />

By eliminating the basification and<br />

pickle stages and focusing only on<br />

tanning, EasyWhite Tan not only generates<br />

considerable savings in time and reduced<br />

chemical usage, it also lessens the<br />

opportunities for error, makes handling<br />

easier and safer and provides for greater<br />

production stability and consistency.<br />

“Tanning systems are usually divided<br />

into two main streams — metal and metal<br />

free — and both have their positives and<br />

negatives. Excluding vegetable tannins,<br />

the most used metal free systems are based<br />

on glutaraldehyde or phosphonium salts<br />

(THPS),” explains Claus Reineking, Head<br />

of PM Wet End Chemicals of <strong>Clariant</strong>’s<br />

BU Leather Services. “We wanted to<br />

develop an improved metal free system,<br />

a wet white tanning process which would<br />

do away with the problematical aspects of<br />

current wet white tanning. Granofin ® F-90<br />

is the answer. It provides a simplified and<br />

more stable production than the current<br />

known processes.”<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> is convinced that EasyWhite<br />

Tan will contribute towards a new greener<br />

way of chrome-free tanning, too. One of<br />

the extra benefits of Granofin F-90 is that<br />

it does away with the need to add any extra<br />

salt into the tanning process, commonly<br />

introduced at the conventional pickle stage<br />

to avoid swelling in the hides. It means that<br />

there is a significant reduction in chlorides<br />

and sulphates in tannery wastewater. This<br />

will be welcomed by the industry, as it<br />

means less corrosion within the tannery,<br />

and especially welcomed by those who are<br />

already processing green hides to avoid<br />

one of the main sources of salt within the<br />

tannery.<br />

As the global leather sector continues<br />

to improve its environmental credentials,<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s EasyWhite Tan will be seen as<br />

helping the industry set a new benchmark<br />

in responsible practice.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong> 15


Why pickle, if you can tan directly<br />

® Granofin is a registered trademark of <strong>Clariant</strong>.<br />

EasyWhite Tan – The chrome-free tanning evolution<br />

towards a greener world.<br />

With this outstanding technology, <strong>Clariant</strong>’s Granofin ® F-90 provides a more environmentally friendly and safe<br />

tanning process for a wide range of leather types. Enjoy the good feeling to be part of this tanning evolution:<br />

A green perspective on leather tanning without pickle.<br />

• Leaner: Total elimination of pickle and basification<br />

• Cleaner: Without pickle – no salt, cleaner effluent<br />

• Safer: Simple processing, no room for mistakes<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited, Leather Business, Kences Towers, 2nd Floor, 1 Ramakrishna Road, Tamil Nadu – 600017, India.<br />

Phone: +91 44 2814 4136 / 7 / 8; Fax: +91 44 2814 4151. www.clariant.in<br />

What do you need


new arrivals<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> launches<br />

beauty and<br />

productivity<br />

boosters for leather<br />

finishing<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> launches Melio ® Aquabase<br />

EF and HF, its two new tailor-made<br />

leather pre-coatings designed to bring out<br />

the natural beauty of leather and Achieve<br />

maximum cutting yield.<br />

Developed for full grain leathers,<br />

Melio Aquabase EF can be used either<br />

alone or with Suitable additions as a very<br />

good sealing and upgrading pre-base coat<br />

that keeps the leather’s softness and grain<br />

break. The product is distinguished by its<br />

filling properties for finer scratches and<br />

pinholes and is convincing as a result of<br />

its elegant upgrading abilities. Subsequent<br />

buffing is not required.<br />

Melio Aquabase HF is a strong filling<br />

pre-ground for lower grade material, such<br />

as buffed leather, full grain leather with<br />

deeper scratches, and even splits. For grain<br />

leathers Melio Aquabase HF can be used<br />

in combination with adhesive agents to fill<br />

deep grain defects.<br />

The leathers can then be finished either<br />

buffed or full grain. After application<br />

on splits, a subsequent buffing process<br />

generates a very uniform surface<br />

appearance.<br />

Both products can be combined to take<br />

advantage of their individual properties.<br />

These two versions of the Melio<br />

Aquabase range will help tanners minimise<br />

hide losses and waste, as well as enhancing<br />

cutting yield and profitability.<br />

These latest additions to <strong>Clariant</strong>’s<br />

Melio Aquabase pre-coating range are<br />

intended for use on reverse roller coaters.<br />

Melio ® 09-T-42:<br />

The new high<br />

gloss aqueous<br />

Patent imitation<br />

Patent leather is always in the<br />

fashion focus of shoe designers<br />

and manufacturers - sometimes more,<br />

sometimes less - but is always in demand.<br />

Therefore a great deal of effort has been<br />

put into the development of an aqueous<br />

alternative for the purely solvent-based<br />

patent topcoats of the past. <strong>Clariant</strong>’s new<br />

Melio ® 09-T-42 must be regarded as a<br />

major improvement and provides tangible<br />

benefits over other products currently<br />

available.<br />

Melio 09-T-42, an aqueous aliphatic<br />

PU-dispersion, is distinguished by the<br />

following main characteristics:<br />

Aqueous top coat for patent leather<br />

imitation.<br />

Brilliant, transparent and with a higher<br />

gloss.<br />

Maintains leather softness.<br />

Elegant touch.<br />

NMP-free.<br />

Reduced overall emissions.<br />

Excellent flow and levelling properties,<br />

including faster drying times.<br />

Very high physical properties.<br />

No additives (e.g. casein/silicone)<br />

required.<br />

Ideal for spray and roller coater<br />

applications.<br />

Hard to imagine but easy to appreciate–<br />

aqueous patent leather imitation at its best<br />

with <strong>Clariant</strong>’s Melio 09-T-42.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> launches<br />

solvent-free<br />

alternative for leather<br />

finishing market<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> offers leather finishers a solventfree<br />

alternative to nitro cellulose (NC)<br />

emulsions with the launch of Aqualen ®<br />

Top IL, an aqueous, modified polyurethane<br />

dispersion.<br />

Aqualen Top IL is an aqueous<br />

intermediate lacquer, especially developed<br />

to substitute solvent-containing emulsion<br />

lacquers. It is easy to use, in the same way<br />

as standard NC emulsion lacquers without<br />

changes to application or procedure and<br />

without the use of solvents. As a result,<br />

solvents are eliminated from exhaust air<br />

and no solvent smell remains in the leather.<br />

NMP-free with very low VOC levels,<br />

Aqualen Top IL reduces emissions in<br />

tanneries, ensuring further environmental<br />

and health-related benefits.<br />

Aqualen Top IL is applied onto the<br />

base coat to eliminate tackiness when<br />

piling, milling or embossing the leathers.<br />

The excellent plate release and subsequent<br />

milling behaviour offered by Aqualen<br />

Top IL ensures a trouble-free production<br />

process. Aqualen Top IL is mainly for use<br />

on furniture and automotive leathers.<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong><br />

17


inside views<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals - Shaping the<br />

future<br />

The Textile Chemicals Business of<br />

India’s leading specialty chemicals<br />

producer - <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Ltd.<br />

conducted the training program jointly<br />

with the Society of Dyers & Colorist, a<br />

“Certificate Program on Application in<br />

Coloration & Wet Processing of Textiles”<br />

at Panipat and Mumbai.<br />

The training was organized for the<br />

students and the delegates to provide a<br />

deep knowledge on the textile process,<br />

testing and machines. The training program<br />

elicited a huge response from the zones.<br />

The Course included sessions on “fiber to<br />

finishing”, also individual practical session<br />

on chemicals testing.<br />

SDC conducted a session on the<br />

“Introduction to Color Management, Color<br />

Chemistry and Color Vision Test”.<br />

Also there was a one day mill visit to<br />

give the practical introduction on the various<br />

textile processes in big Textile Mills.<br />

Now <strong>Clariant</strong> is looking forward to<br />

conducting similar program in the South<br />

zone.<br />

18<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong>


gleanings from press<br />

Cotton – The White Gold<br />

The strong momentum in the rise in<br />

cotton prices has left the domestic<br />

textile and apparel industry in a state<br />

of alarm. Apparel manufacturers across<br />

segments are taking all steps to put a stop<br />

to the escalating prices. There is a strong<br />

consensus for government intervention.<br />

Last month, cotton prices reached $1.50<br />

a point (0.45kg) in the global markets for<br />

the first time, which was double the price<br />

of last year. The Indian government has<br />

also raised the minimum support price<br />

(MSP) by up to 40 per cent for medium<br />

staple cotton. While the decision is a boon<br />

for farmers, labourers working in dyeing<br />

and knitting units are protesting against it.<br />

The Indian apparel industry is the largest<br />

employment provider after agriculture<br />

and shelters around 6 million employees.<br />

The apparel industry also employs the<br />

maximum number of women workers.<br />

Cause of the price hike<br />

The major suppliers of cotton in the<br />

world are China, USA, Pakistan and<br />

India. The recent floods in Pakistan and<br />

China triggered the hike in cotton prices.<br />

Over 4 million acres of cotton fields<br />

were damaged. Tight supply and growing<br />

demand of cotton across the globe was<br />

also another prime factor that affected the<br />

prices.<br />

With the clearance of the recession<br />

cloud the wheels of textile industry started<br />

spinning again successfully. On the Indian<br />

scenario, where more than 50 per cent of<br />

the production is exported, companies<br />

started posting profits.<br />

Integrated textile parks<br />

to generate exports<br />

worth ` 3,700 crore<br />

Madurai: The eight integrated textile<br />

parks (ITPs) proposed in Tamil<br />

Nadu with an investment of ` 2,100 crore<br />

will generate exports worth ` 3,700 crore,<br />

Union Minister for Textiles, Dayanidhi<br />

<strong>Mar</strong>an, said while speaking at the inaugural<br />

ceremony of the Madurai integrated textile<br />

park at Thathampatti near Chennai.<br />

<strong>Mar</strong>an said 20% of 40 textile parks<br />

proposed by the Centre wre planned in<br />

TN. The Madurai ITP was exporting<br />

` 75 crore worth textiles involving<br />

an investment of ` 100 crore with the<br />

initial 15 units functioning here. The<br />

park was expected to get an additional<br />

` 300 crore investment and the exports<br />

would go up to ` 500 crore.<br />

Bihar to set up Textile<br />

Parks<br />

Patna: The Bihar state government<br />

recently held a public complain<br />

hearing and redressal session, under its<br />

‘Sahyog’ programme, at its head office,<br />

whereby a number of persons voiced<br />

their issues and difficulties that they were<br />

facing. During the session, Sushil Kumar<br />

Modi, the Deputy Chief Minister of Bihar,<br />

declared that the state govenment is going<br />

to announce the new industrial policy at<br />

the beginning of the next financial year.<br />

He also revealed that, the cotton mills at<br />

Pandaul and Siwan, which have been shut<br />

down, would soon be restarted, and also<br />

that the work fo the jute park at Katihar is<br />

likely to be concluded by April <strong>2011</strong>. Also<br />

other textile parks would be established<br />

at appropriate locations in the state, he<br />

added.<br />

Feedback <br />

Send your suggestions/entries to<br />

poonam.badhiye@clariant.com<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

www.clariant.in<br />

Printed and Published by<br />

Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

Design by Point-n-Pixel<br />

Printed by Multiple Images<br />

Chief Editor:<br />

Prabhat Trivedi<br />

Editorial Co-ordinator: Poonam Badhiye<br />

Consulting Editor: Philips Abraham<br />

Editorial Board: Tushar Choudhary<br />

Rajinikanth Prasad<br />

Nirmal Punjabi<br />

colour chronicle 1 | <strong>2011</strong> 19

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