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THE NEW QUITANDINHA - Instituto Art Deco Brasil

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ARCHITECTURE <strong>QUITANDINHA</strong><br />

<strong>THE</strong> <strong>NEW</strong> <strong>QUITANDINHA</strong><br />

Entrance hall at the old casino and theater. Repetition of the diamond shape theme<br />

on the lattice and the black and white marble floors, integrated with the Copacabana<br />

MÄrcio Alves Roiter goes to PetrÅpolis<br />

to check out the renovation of one style sidewalk outside. The fuchsia pink walls alternating with white frames and finishing –<br />

Photos by Romulo Fialdini of Brazil’s most beautiful palaces especially seashells – were a Dorothy Draper trademark


ARCHITECTURE <strong>QUITANDINHA</strong><br />

The sign on Rio-PetrÅpolis road indicates, laconically: Quitandinha Palace. Even if we could read<br />

what Cholly Knickerbocker wrote on the New York Journal, in 1944, the year when the largest<br />

resort and casino in Latin America was opened, we would not be prepared for what we were<br />

about to see. And the social columnist had solemnly stated: “Southern hemisphere’s Monte<br />

Carlo, Quitandinha is like a dream right out of The Arabian Nights or The Wizard of Oz.”<br />

The old casino, which would start to wither only two years later due to president Dutra’s decree<br />

forbidding gambling, has gone through an extensive renovation and now hold exhibits, parties,<br />

events, besides lectures promoted by Casa do Saber. Wish traveled to PetrÅpolis to see up close<br />

the transformation of one of the most beautiful Brazilian buildings.<br />

For a long time many asked what would happen to the palace, which had become during the<br />

1960s the Santa Paula Quitandinha Club, but bore no resemblance to the shinning glory of the<br />

1940s. In 2007, Sesc, a Brazilian commerce organization, acquired Quitandinha’s common areas<br />

– all the halls and installations except for the apartments – and has been conducting a detailed<br />

restoration project.<br />

On this page, above, the old casino’s Hollywood style staircase, floor with a mosaic created with<br />

several types of marble, with huge and intricately carved painted wooden candle-holders. All of the<br />

furniture was made by Brazilian cabinet-makers and craftsmen, following the designed by DD; to the<br />

left, black marble stairs to the theater, and empty lit niche, another resource present in the decorator’s<br />

vocabulary<br />

On the next page, sitting 1200 people, the theater is entirely original. The ceiling, with its consecutive<br />

concave layers, repeats the aesthetic/acoustic effect created inside New York’s Radio City Music Hall<br />

(1932) and Cinema Roxy in Copacabana (1938). Recently, it was used as a location for television series<br />

Dalva and Herivelto


ARCHITECTURE <strong>QUITANDINHA</strong><br />

It is almost done, and already houses intense cultural activity. Anti-minimalism Palace,<br />

Quitandinha is considered the world’s largest example of an encounter between international<br />

<strong>Art</strong> DÜco and Brazilian Baroque. It has been studied and visited by admirers of the first great<br />

American decorator, Dorothy Draper. After a forty-year career, she would realize there her<br />

most ambitious project.<br />

NÜe Dorothy Tuckerman, in 1889, to the gilded New York high-society, heir to the developer<br />

of the Tuxedo Park (an exclusive condominium 20 kilometers from Manhattan), Dorothy<br />

married future American president Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s personal doctor, George<br />

Draper, in 1912. Upon her divorce, 17 years later, she had to reinvent herself – which led<br />

her to coin the phrase: “American women are divided into two classes, the happily married<br />

and the decorators.”<br />

Her bold style and the success of projects like the Hampshire House hotels, on Central Park<br />

South, the Carlyle, on Upper East Side, both in New York, the Fairmont and the Mark<br />

Hopkins, in San Francisco, echoed in the ears of the biggest casino owner in Brazil, and one<br />

of the ten richest men in the country, the former cattle driver from the state of Minas Gerais,<br />

Joaquim Rolla.<br />

On the previous<br />

page, one of the<br />

immense<br />

balconies,<br />

waiting for the<br />

end of the<br />

restoration to<br />

house once<br />

again its original<br />

furniture,<br />

covered in<br />

fabric, some<br />

striped, others<br />

printed with<br />

tropical flowers<br />

and leaves.<br />

Below, in the<br />

indoor garden,<br />

sits the huge<br />

painted iron<br />

cage with a<br />

fountain inside,<br />

which displayed<br />

dozens of<br />

Brazilian birds<br />

during<br />

Quitandinha’s<br />

glory days.


ARCHITECTURE <strong>QUITANDINHA</strong><br />

She was all he needed: a well-connected New York W.A.S.P., owner of an original style,<br />

and above all a beautiful six-foot-tall light-colored-eyed woman. In 1942, as he started to<br />

build his megalomaniac project, Joaquim Rolla saw in Dorothy the perfect character to<br />

design the interior of his palace. On the outside, Quitandinha had a Norman style,<br />

reflecting the vision of architect Luis Fossati, loved by Rio de Janeiro dwellers, from Urca<br />

to Grajaá. Inside, a carte blanche was issued for all the American’s fantasies, mixing<br />

Brazilian Baroque architecture, <strong>Art</strong> DÜco geometry, and very colorful tropical leaves and<br />

flowers on folding screens, fabrics, and wallpapers. And stripes, lots of stripes, which,<br />

combined with the geometric floors, contrasted with the volute of finishing, lightning and<br />

the white plaster and stucco columns. “Dorothy Draper was to decorating what Chanel<br />

was to fashion,” compared Carleton Varney, her former assistant.<br />

Back then, it was not hard to convince Dorothy to take part on the gigantic adventure of<br />

filling 50 thousand square meters, 13 halls, skating rink and 440 apartments. Her fee,<br />

which would now amount to US$ 1.5 million, was insignificant if compared to the total<br />

building cost, a substantial investment of over US$ 650 million. A curiosity: the designs for<br />

furniture, lamps, doors, and everything else came from Dorothy’s drawing board in New<br />

York, but were built by Brazilian artisans. It is no surprise to see that the most<br />

comprehensive book on the American decorator, written in 2006 by Varney, had the<br />

Quitandinha on the cover, and was called In the Pink: Dorothy Draper, America’s Most<br />

Fabulous <strong>Deco</strong>rator.<br />

On the previous page,<br />

the lobby of the old<br />

hotel, with the huge<br />

Baroque chandelier, a<br />

style that is repeated on<br />

the door to the Dom<br />

Pedro Hall,<br />

counterbalanced by the<br />

<strong>Art</strong> DÜco<br />

columns/lamps. On the<br />

floor, a star-shaped<br />

marble mosaic, another<br />

of Dorothy Draper’s<br />

trademarks.<br />

Above, gallery with<br />

damier floor in black and<br />

white marble, leading to<br />

the indoor garden.<br />

Baroque shells, vases<br />

and pedestals made of<br />

plaster and wood<br />

counterbalance the<br />

geometric floors

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