Palm Based Oleochemicals - Cosmetics - American Palm Oil Council

TWO TYPES OF OILS/FATS FROM OIL PALM
FRUIT
Palm oil rich in C16
and C18
Palm Kernel Oil rich in C12
and C14
1

NONFOOD USES
Palm oil
Fractionated into
palm olein and
stearin
Palm olein – food
Palm stearin –
nonfood /
oleochemicals
Palm Kernel Oil
Fractionated into
palm kernel olein and
kernel stearin
Palm kernel stearin –
food
Palm kernel olein –
nonfood /
oleochemicals
2

COMPOSITION OF
PO = TALLOW & PKO = CNO
R, R’, R , R’’ R
PO
Tallow
CNO
PKO
C6 0.2
0.3
C8 8.0
4.4
C10 7.0
3.7
C12 C14 C16 C18 C18:1 C18:2 0.23
1.09
44.02
4.54
39.15
10.12
2.5 26.6 21.8 42.8 2.3 48.2
18.0
8.5
2.3
5.7
2.1
48.3
15.6
7.8
2.0
15.1
2.7
C18:3
0.37
4

CHANGING THE SCENARIO
Availability of lauric
oils
Predictability in
supply
Good Government
incentives
Good infrastructure
Political stability
FAC Tallow = PO
FAC CNO = PKO
The development of
oleochemicals industry
in Malaysia (&
Indonesia)
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005
Palm Oil PK Oil
5

Percent Utilization of Palm Products in
Malaysian Oleochemical Industry
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
1990 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
PO 2 3.1 3.4 4.5 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.7 4.9
PKO 13.3 51.7 47.6 59.3 50 59.2 58.5 63.6 60.7
Total P 3.4 9 8.5 10.5 10 10.6 10.5 10.9 11.3
6

MALAYSIAN OLEOCHEMICALS: CAPACITY,
PRODUCTION AND EXPORTS (in‘000 tonnes).
2000
1500
1000
500
0
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
#Co: 15 14 16 17 16 17
Capacity Oil used Export
7

TYPES OF BASIC OLEOCHEMICALS
EXPORTED FROM MALAYSIA (in tonnes)
800000
700000
600000
500000
400000
300000
200000
100000
0
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
Acids Alcohol Methyl Ester Glycerol
8

METHYL ESTER FROM PKO
PKO
MES
Crude Methyl
Ester
High temp. & High pressure
Hydrogenation
sulfation
Distilled Methyl
Ester
Fatty Alcohol
ethoxylation
PKO rich in C12 & C14
- desired chain length for
surfactants
Fatty Alcohol
Sulfates
Fatty Alcohol
Ethoxylates
Fatty Alcohol
Ether Sulfates
9

LOTION WITH VITAMIN E
Isopropyl Myristate
Octyl Stearate
Stearic Acid
MCT
Water
Glycerin
Preservatives
Rheological additives
Vitamin E
Triethanol Amine
11

CREAM
Isopropyl palmitate
Octyl palmitate
Stearic acid
MCT
Cetyl alcohol
Glycerol
Preservative
Rheological additives
Neutraliser
12

COLLABORATION WITH HR
MARKETING SDN. BHD.
Skincare with goat’s milk
13

PRODUCTS WITH ROSELLE
14

PRODUCTS WITH PALM VITAMIN E
15

COLOR COSMETICS
• LIPSTICKS
• DEODORANT STICK
• COMPACT POWDER
• LIQUID FOUNDATION
LIPGLOSS
MASCARA
LOOSE POWDER
16

EFFICACY TESTING
• Efficacy tests (in-
vivo and in-vitro)
are carried out to
get data.
• Data is used to
substantiate claims
made on a
particular product.
• In developed
countries – claim
substantiation is
necessary.
17

SAFETY AND EFFICACY
EVALUATION OF SOAPS
Figure 4. Results of Chromamater Readings
Figure 7. Results of Skin Hydration
V ariation of a*
value
3.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
-0.5
Soap A COM2 C
Variation of Hydration
0.0
-2.0
-4.0
-6.0
-8.0
-10.0
-12.0
-14.0
-* -*
Soap A COM2 C
-*
Product
Product
Soap A COM2 C
Soap A COM2 C
Irritation test
Skin Hydration test
18

ROSELLE MOISTURIZING CREAM
35-38% 38% increase in skin moisture
after application (Rosnah(
Rosnah, , 2002)
Figure 2 : Increase in moisture treated with
cream vs untreated
% Increase
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
-5
0 30 60 90 120 180
Control
DC2
DC3
Time (minutes)
19

WHITENING EFFICACY
Variation in L
value
Study 49/01 : Effect on skin
lightness between treated and
untreated
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
-0.5
T0 T4 T6
SLC
Time (weeks)
Untreated
V ariation in m e lanin
index
Study49/01 : Effect on skin melanin
between treated and untreated
0.0
-2.0
-4.0
-6.0
T0 T4 T6
Time (weeks)
SLC
Untreated
No. of Volunteers = 20 Product type = cream
Skin types = Group 3 (14), 4 (6)
Result = significant (p

Palm-based anti acne cream
• In vitro tests of using the essential oil at 50mg/ml showed that the
compounds could significantly reduce Propionibacterium acnes and
Staphylococcus aureus, which are the main microflora of acne lesion.
120
% Bacterial Count
100
80
60
40
20
0
Control
6.25
12.5
25
50
100
P. acne
S. aureus
Dose (mg/ml)
In vitro anti-microbial test of essential oil against
Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus
21

Palm-based anti acne cream
Direct sebum measurement indicated a 9% reduction after 6 weeks
application of the anti-acne cream.
Sebum (mg.cm-2)
180
160
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
-20
Sebum
(mg/cm2)
% Sebum
Reduction
T0 (Control)
T1 (Week 1)
T4 (Week 4)
T6 (Week 6)
In vivo study on the effect of anti-acne cream on sebum production
against time
22

PALM DIHYDROXYSTEARIC ACIDS
(PALM DHSA)
OH
CH3 -(CH
2 ) 7 CH-CH-(CH
2 ) 7 -COOH
OH
MW 316
24

PRODUCTION OF DHSA
HCO 3 H or CH 3 CO 3 H)
COOH
H +
OH
O
OH
H 2 O
COOH
COOH
9,10-dihydroxystearic acid
25

In Vitro test for Skin Corrosion
Not Not determine determined
In Vitro test for Skin Irritation
In Vitro Dermal irritection Assay
Human irritancy Equivalent (HIE)
1.4
1.2
1
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0
R10 R11-A R11-1 R13
50uL
75uL
100uL
125uL
Non-Irritant
Moderate Irritant
DHSA Samples
26

3 PROCESSES TO PRODUCE
SOAP/SOAP NOODLES
RCH 2 COO-CH
CH 2
RCH 2 COO-CH
CH
RCH 2 COO-CH
CH 2
RCH 2 COOH
RCH 2 COOCH 3
NaOH
NaOH
NaOH
3 RCH 2 COO - Na +
+ CH 2 OHCHOHCH 2 OH
RCH 2 COO - Na +
RCH 2 COO - Na +
+ CH 3 OH
Soap noodles
USP glycerin
Soap noodles
Soap noodles
29

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE
VARIOUS SOAP NOODLES
Saponification of
oils/fats
FAC depend on the
types and ratio of
various oils/fats
used
Neutralization of
fatty acids
FAC can be varied
by selecting the
fatty acids to
neutralize
Saponification of
fatty methyl ester
FAC can be varied by
selecting the fatty
methyl ester to
saponify
Color – darker
Color – good
Color – Very good
Elaborate process
Simplified process
Process is simple but
CH 3 OH can pose
problem to some.
30

PALM-BASED SOAP NOODLES
FROM MALAYSIA
PO 80, 75, 70, 60
PKO 20, 25, 30, 40
H 2 O 9-12.5%
TFM 79-83%
FFA 1.3 - 7.0%
GLY 0.4 - 0.6%
Sesq. Present
31

PALM-BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP FOR
SKIN CARE & DECORATIVE
• Developed by
neutralization of fatty
acids and in
combination with
polyol (i.e. glycerine)
as an agent to impart
transparency to the
soap.
32

PALM-BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP VS
COMMERCIAL TRANSPARENT SOAPS
Sample
pH
(1% solution)
Penetration
depth (mm)
Transparenc
y value
Palm-based
transparent soap
for skin care
9.84 1.09 0.90
Commercial 1 10.17 0.18 0.77
Commercial 2 10.46 1.09 0.88
Commercial 3 10.28 3.09 0.86
33

SUMMARY
o
o
o
o
Palm oil is an important oil in the
oils/fats market
Very versatile – many potential
applications
Some applications compete with
petro-based products
Oleochemical products can
compete in terms of performance
and cost
34