Palm Based Oleochemicals - Cosmetics - American Palm Oil Council
Palm Based Oleochemicals - Cosmetics - American Palm Oil Council
Palm Based Oleochemicals - Cosmetics - American Palm Oil Council
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TWO TYPES OF OILS/FATS FROM OIL PALM<br />
FRUIT<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> oil rich in C16<br />
and C18<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> Kernel <strong>Oil</strong> rich in C12<br />
and C14<br />
1
NONFOOD USES<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> oil<br />
Fractionated into<br />
palm olein and<br />
stearin<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> olein – food<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> stearin –<br />
nonfood /<br />
oleochemicals<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> Kernel <strong>Oil</strong><br />
Fractionated into<br />
palm kernel olein and<br />
kernel stearin<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> kernel stearin –<br />
food<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> kernel olein –<br />
nonfood /<br />
oleochemicals<br />
2
COMPOSITION OF<br />
PO = TALLOW & PKO = CNO<br />
R, R’, R , R’’ R<br />
PO<br />
Tallow<br />
CNO<br />
PKO<br />
C6 0.2<br />
0.3<br />
C8 8.0<br />
4.4<br />
C10 7.0<br />
3.7<br />
C12 C14 C16 C18 C18:1 C18:2 0.23<br />
1.09<br />
44.02<br />
4.54<br />
39.15<br />
10.12<br />
2.5 26.6 21.8 42.8 2.3 48.2<br />
18.0<br />
8.5<br />
2.3<br />
5.7<br />
2.1<br />
48.3<br />
15.6<br />
7.8<br />
2.0<br />
15.1<br />
2.7<br />
C18:3<br />
0.37<br />
4
CHANGING THE SCENARIO<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Availability of lauric<br />
oils<br />
Predictability in<br />
supply<br />
Good Government<br />
incentives<br />
Good infrastructure<br />
Political stability<br />
FAC Tallow = PO<br />
FAC CNO = PKO<br />
The development of<br />
oleochemicals industry<br />
in Malaysia (&<br />
Indonesia)<br />
16<br />
14<br />
12<br />
10<br />
8<br />
6<br />
4<br />
2<br />
0<br />
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> PK <strong>Oil</strong><br />
5
Percent Utilization of <strong>Palm</strong> Products in<br />
Malaysian Oleochemical Industry<br />
70<br />
60<br />
50<br />
40<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
1990 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />
PO 2 3.1 3.4 4.5 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.7 4.9<br />
PKO 13.3 51.7 47.6 59.3 50 59.2 58.5 63.6 60.7<br />
Total P 3.4 9 8.5 10.5 10 10.6 10.5 10.9 11.3<br />
6
MALAYSIAN OLEOCHEMICALS: CAPACITY,<br />
PRODUCTION AND EXPORTS (in‘000 tonnes).<br />
2000<br />
1500<br />
1000<br />
500<br />
0<br />
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />
#Co: 15 14 16 17 16 17<br />
Capacity <strong>Oil</strong> used Export<br />
7
TYPES OF BASIC OLEOCHEMICALS<br />
EXPORTED FROM MALAYSIA (in tonnes)<br />
800000<br />
700000<br />
600000<br />
500000<br />
400000<br />
300000<br />
200000<br />
100000<br />
0<br />
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />
Acids Alcohol Methyl Ester Glycerol<br />
8
METHYL ESTER FROM PKO<br />
PKO<br />
MES<br />
Crude Methyl<br />
Ester<br />
High temp. & High pressure<br />
Hydrogenation<br />
sulfation<br />
Distilled Methyl<br />
Ester<br />
Fatty Alcohol<br />
ethoxylation<br />
PKO rich in C12 & C14<br />
- desired chain length for<br />
surfactants<br />
Fatty Alcohol<br />
Sulfates<br />
Fatty Alcohol<br />
Ethoxylates<br />
Fatty Alcohol<br />
Ether Sulfates<br />
9
LOTION WITH VITAMIN E<br />
Isopropyl Myristate<br />
Octyl Stearate<br />
Stearic Acid<br />
MCT<br />
Water<br />
Glycerin<br />
Preservatives<br />
Rheological additives<br />
Vitamin E<br />
Triethanol Amine<br />
11
CREAM<br />
Isopropyl palmitate<br />
Octyl palmitate<br />
Stearic acid<br />
MCT<br />
Cetyl alcohol<br />
Glycerol<br />
Preservative<br />
Rheological additives<br />
Neutraliser<br />
12
COLLABORATION WITH HR<br />
MARKETING SDN. BHD.<br />
Skincare with goat’s milk<br />
13
PRODUCTS WITH ROSELLE<br />
14
PRODUCTS WITH PALM VITAMIN E<br />
15
COLOR COSMETICS<br />
• LIPSTICKS<br />
• DEODORANT STICK<br />
• COMPACT POWDER<br />
• LIQUID FOUNDATION<br />
LIPGLOSS<br />
MASCARA<br />
LOOSE POWDER<br />
16
EFFICACY TESTING<br />
• Efficacy tests (in-<br />
vivo and in-vitro)<br />
are carried out to<br />
get data.<br />
• Data is used to<br />
substantiate claims<br />
made on a<br />
particular product.<br />
• In developed<br />
countries – claim<br />
substantiation is<br />
necessary.<br />
17
SAFETY AND EFFICACY<br />
EVALUATION OF SOAPS<br />
Figure 4. Results of Chromamater Readings<br />
Figure 7. Results of Skin Hydration<br />
V ariation of a*<br />
value<br />
3.0<br />
2.5<br />
2.0<br />
1.5<br />
1.0<br />
0.5<br />
0.0<br />
-0.5<br />
Soap A COM2 C<br />
Variation of Hydration<br />
0.0<br />
-2.0<br />
-4.0<br />
-6.0<br />
-8.0<br />
-10.0<br />
-12.0<br />
-14.0<br />
-* -*<br />
Soap A COM2 C<br />
-*<br />
Product<br />
Product<br />
Soap A COM2 C<br />
Soap A COM2 C<br />
Irritation test<br />
Skin Hydration test<br />
18
ROSELLE MOISTURIZING CREAM<br />
35-38% 38% increase in skin moisture<br />
after application (Rosnah(<br />
Rosnah, , 2002)<br />
Figure 2 : Increase in moisture treated with<br />
cream vs untreated<br />
% Increase<br />
40<br />
35<br />
30<br />
25<br />
20<br />
15<br />
10<br />
5<br />
0<br />
-5<br />
0 30 60 90 120 180<br />
Control<br />
DC2<br />
DC3<br />
Time (minutes)<br />
19
WHITENING EFFICACY<br />
Variation in L<br />
value<br />
Study 49/01 : Effect on skin<br />
lightness between treated and<br />
untreated<br />
1.5<br />
1.0<br />
0.5<br />
0.0<br />
-0.5<br />
T0 T4 T6<br />
SLC<br />
Time (weeks)<br />
Untreated<br />
V ariation in m e lanin<br />
index<br />
Study49/01 : Effect on skin melanin<br />
between treated and untreated<br />
0.0<br />
-2.0<br />
-4.0<br />
-6.0<br />
T0 T4 T6<br />
Time (weeks)<br />
SLC<br />
Untreated<br />
No. of Volunteers = 20 Product type = cream<br />
Skin types = Group 3 (14), 4 (6)<br />
Result = significant (p
<strong>Palm</strong>-based anti acne cream<br />
• In vitro tests of using the essential oil at 50mg/ml showed that the<br />
compounds could significantly reduce Propionibacterium acnes and<br />
Staphylococcus aureus, which are the main microflora of acne lesion.<br />
120<br />
% Bacterial Count<br />
100<br />
80<br />
60<br />
40<br />
20<br />
0<br />
Control<br />
6.25<br />
12.5<br />
25<br />
50<br />
100<br />
P. acne<br />
S. aureus<br />
Dose (mg/ml)<br />
In vitro anti-microbial test of essential oil against<br />
Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus<br />
21
<strong>Palm</strong>-based anti acne cream<br />
Direct sebum measurement indicated a 9% reduction after 6 weeks<br />
application of the anti-acne cream.<br />
Sebum (mg.cm-2)<br />
180<br />
160<br />
140<br />
120<br />
100<br />
80<br />
60<br />
40<br />
20<br />
0<br />
-20<br />
Sebum<br />
(mg/cm2)<br />
% Sebum<br />
Reduction<br />
T0 (Control)<br />
T1 (Week 1)<br />
T4 (Week 4)<br />
T6 (Week 6)<br />
In vivo study on the effect of anti-acne cream on sebum production<br />
against time<br />
22
PALM DIHYDROXYSTEARIC ACIDS<br />
(PALM DHSA)<br />
OH<br />
CH3 -(CH<br />
2 ) 7 CH-CH-(CH<br />
2 ) 7 -COOH<br />
OH<br />
MW 316<br />
24
PRODUCTION OF DHSA<br />
HCO 3 H or CH 3 CO 3 H)<br />
COOH<br />
H +<br />
OH<br />
O<br />
OH<br />
H 2 O<br />
COOH<br />
COOH<br />
9,10-dihydroxystearic acid<br />
25
In Vitro test for Skin Corrosion<br />
Not Not determine determined<br />
In Vitro test for Skin Irritation<br />
In Vitro Dermal irritection Assay<br />
Human irritancy Equivalent (HIE)<br />
1.4<br />
1.2<br />
1<br />
0.8<br />
0.6<br />
0.4<br />
0.2<br />
0<br />
R10 R11-A R11-1 R13<br />
50uL<br />
75uL<br />
100uL<br />
125uL<br />
Non-Irritant<br />
Moderate Irritant<br />
DHSA Samples<br />
26
3 PROCESSES TO PRODUCE<br />
SOAP/SOAP NOODLES<br />
RCH 2 COO-CH<br />
CH 2<br />
RCH 2 COO-CH<br />
CH<br />
RCH 2 COO-CH<br />
CH 2<br />
RCH 2 COOH<br />
RCH 2 COOCH 3<br />
NaOH<br />
NaOH<br />
NaOH<br />
3 RCH 2 COO - Na +<br />
+ CH 2 OHCHOHCH 2 OH<br />
RCH 2 COO - Na +<br />
RCH 2 COO - Na +<br />
+ CH 3 OH<br />
Soap noodles<br />
USP glycerin<br />
Soap noodles<br />
Soap noodles<br />
29
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE<br />
VARIOUS SOAP NOODLES<br />
Saponification of<br />
oils/fats<br />
FAC depend on the<br />
types and ratio of<br />
various oils/fats<br />
used<br />
Neutralization of<br />
fatty acids<br />
FAC can be varied<br />
by selecting the<br />
fatty acids to<br />
neutralize<br />
Saponification of<br />
fatty methyl ester<br />
FAC can be varied by<br />
selecting the fatty<br />
methyl ester to<br />
saponify<br />
Color – darker<br />
Color – good<br />
Color – Very good<br />
Elaborate process<br />
Simplified process<br />
Process is simple but<br />
CH 3 OH can pose<br />
problem to some.<br />
<br />
30
PALM-BASED SOAP NOODLES<br />
FROM MALAYSIA<br />
PO 80, 75, 70, 60<br />
PKO 20, 25, 30, 40<br />
H 2 O 9-12.5%<br />
TFM 79-83%<br />
FFA 1.3 - 7.0%<br />
GLY 0.4 - 0.6%<br />
Sesq. Present<br />
31
PALM-BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP FOR<br />
SKIN CARE & DECORATIVE<br />
• Developed by<br />
neutralization of fatty<br />
acids and in<br />
combination with<br />
polyol (i.e. glycerine)<br />
as an agent to impart<br />
transparency to the<br />
soap.<br />
32
PALM-BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP VS<br />
COMMERCIAL TRANSPARENT SOAPS<br />
Sample<br />
pH<br />
(1% solution)<br />
Penetration<br />
depth (mm)<br />
Transparenc<br />
y value<br />
<strong>Palm</strong>-based<br />
transparent soap<br />
for skin care<br />
9.84 1.09 0.90<br />
Commercial 1 10.17 0.18 0.77<br />
Commercial 2 10.46 1.09 0.88<br />
Commercial 3 10.28 3.09 0.86<br />
33
SUMMARY<br />
o<br />
o<br />
o<br />
o<br />
<strong>Palm</strong> oil is an important oil in the<br />
oils/fats market<br />
Very versatile – many potential<br />
applications<br />
Some applications compete with<br />
petro-based products<br />
Oleochemical products can<br />
compete in terms of performance<br />
and cost<br />
34