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Palm Based Oleochemicals - Cosmetics - American Palm Oil Council

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TWO TYPES OF OILS/FATS FROM OIL PALM<br />

FRUIT<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil rich in C16<br />

and C18<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> Kernel <strong>Oil</strong> rich in C12<br />

and C14<br />

1


NONFOOD USES<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil<br />

Fractionated into<br />

palm olein and<br />

stearin<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> olein – food<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> stearin –<br />

nonfood /<br />

oleochemicals<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> Kernel <strong>Oil</strong><br />

Fractionated into<br />

palm kernel olein and<br />

kernel stearin<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> kernel stearin –<br />

food<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> kernel olein –<br />

nonfood /<br />

oleochemicals<br />

2


COMPOSITION OF<br />

PO = TALLOW & PKO = CNO<br />

R, R’, R , R’’ R<br />

PO<br />

Tallow<br />

CNO<br />

PKO<br />

C6 0.2<br />

0.3<br />

C8 8.0<br />

4.4<br />

C10 7.0<br />

3.7<br />

C12 C14 C16 C18 C18:1 C18:2 0.23<br />

1.09<br />

44.02<br />

4.54<br />

39.15<br />

10.12<br />

2.5 26.6 21.8 42.8 2.3 48.2<br />

18.0<br />

8.5<br />

2.3<br />

5.7<br />

2.1<br />

48.3<br />

15.6<br />

7.8<br />

2.0<br />

15.1<br />

2.7<br />

C18:3<br />

0.37<br />

4


CHANGING THE SCENARIO<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Availability of lauric<br />

oils<br />

Predictability in<br />

supply<br />

Good Government<br />

incentives<br />

Good infrastructure<br />

Political stability<br />

FAC Tallow = PO<br />

FAC CNO = PKO<br />

The development of<br />

oleochemicals industry<br />

in Malaysia (&<br />

Indonesia)<br />

16<br />

14<br />

12<br />

10<br />

8<br />

6<br />

4<br />

2<br />

0<br />

1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> <strong>Oil</strong> PK <strong>Oil</strong><br />

5


Percent Utilization of <strong>Palm</strong> Products in<br />

Malaysian Oleochemical Industry<br />

70<br />

60<br />

50<br />

40<br />

30<br />

20<br />

10<br />

0<br />

1990 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />

PO 2 3.1 3.4 4.5 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.7 4.9<br />

PKO 13.3 51.7 47.6 59.3 50 59.2 58.5 63.6 60.7<br />

Total P 3.4 9 8.5 10.5 10 10.6 10.5 10.9 11.3<br />

6


MALAYSIAN OLEOCHEMICALS: CAPACITY,<br />

PRODUCTION AND EXPORTS (in‘000 tonnes).<br />

2000<br />

1500<br />

1000<br />

500<br />

0<br />

1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />

#Co: 15 14 16 17 16 17<br />

Capacity <strong>Oil</strong> used Export<br />

7


TYPES OF BASIC OLEOCHEMICALS<br />

EXPORTED FROM MALAYSIA (in tonnes)<br />

800000<br />

700000<br />

600000<br />

500000<br />

400000<br />

300000<br />

200000<br />

100000<br />

0<br />

1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005<br />

Acids Alcohol Methyl Ester Glycerol<br />

8


METHYL ESTER FROM PKO<br />

PKO<br />

MES<br />

Crude Methyl<br />

Ester<br />

High temp. & High pressure<br />

Hydrogenation<br />

sulfation<br />

Distilled Methyl<br />

Ester<br />

Fatty Alcohol<br />

ethoxylation<br />

PKO rich in C12 & C14<br />

- desired chain length for<br />

surfactants<br />

Fatty Alcohol<br />

Sulfates<br />

Fatty Alcohol<br />

Ethoxylates<br />

Fatty Alcohol<br />

Ether Sulfates<br />

9


LOTION WITH VITAMIN E<br />

Isopropyl Myristate<br />

Octyl Stearate<br />

Stearic Acid<br />

MCT<br />

Water<br />

Glycerin<br />

Preservatives<br />

Rheological additives<br />

Vitamin E<br />

Triethanol Amine<br />

11


CREAM<br />

Isopropyl palmitate<br />

Octyl palmitate<br />

Stearic acid<br />

MCT<br />

Cetyl alcohol<br />

Glycerol<br />

Preservative<br />

Rheological additives<br />

Neutraliser<br />

12


COLLABORATION WITH HR<br />

MARKETING SDN. BHD.<br />

Skincare with goat’s milk<br />

13


PRODUCTS WITH ROSELLE<br />

14


PRODUCTS WITH PALM VITAMIN E<br />

15


COLOR COSMETICS<br />

• LIPSTICKS<br />

• DEODORANT STICK<br />

• COMPACT POWDER<br />

• LIQUID FOUNDATION<br />

LIPGLOSS<br />

MASCARA<br />

LOOSE POWDER<br />

16


EFFICACY TESTING<br />

• Efficacy tests (in-<br />

vivo and in-vitro)<br />

are carried out to<br />

get data.<br />

• Data is used to<br />

substantiate claims<br />

made on a<br />

particular product.<br />

• In developed<br />

countries – claim<br />

substantiation is<br />

necessary.<br />

17


SAFETY AND EFFICACY<br />

EVALUATION OF SOAPS<br />

Figure 4. Results of Chromamater Readings<br />

Figure 7. Results of Skin Hydration<br />

V ariation of a*<br />

value<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0.5<br />

0.0<br />

-0.5<br />

Soap A COM2 C<br />

Variation of Hydration<br />

0.0<br />

-2.0<br />

-4.0<br />

-6.0<br />

-8.0<br />

-10.0<br />

-12.0<br />

-14.0<br />

-* -*<br />

Soap A COM2 C<br />

-*<br />

Product<br />

Product<br />

Soap A COM2 C<br />

Soap A COM2 C<br />

Irritation test<br />

Skin Hydration test<br />

18


ROSELLE MOISTURIZING CREAM<br />

35-38% 38% increase in skin moisture<br />

after application (Rosnah(<br />

Rosnah, , 2002)<br />

Figure 2 : Increase in moisture treated with<br />

cream vs untreated<br />

% Increase<br />

40<br />

35<br />

30<br />

25<br />

20<br />

15<br />

10<br />

5<br />

0<br />

-5<br />

0 30 60 90 120 180<br />

Control<br />

DC2<br />

DC3<br />

Time (minutes)<br />

19


WHITENING EFFICACY<br />

Variation in L<br />

value<br />

Study 49/01 : Effect on skin<br />

lightness between treated and<br />

untreated<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0.5<br />

0.0<br />

-0.5<br />

T0 T4 T6<br />

SLC<br />

Time (weeks)<br />

Untreated<br />

V ariation in m e lanin<br />

index<br />

Study49/01 : Effect on skin melanin<br />

between treated and untreated<br />

0.0<br />

-2.0<br />

-4.0<br />

-6.0<br />

T0 T4 T6<br />

Time (weeks)<br />

SLC<br />

Untreated<br />

No. of Volunteers = 20 Product type = cream<br />

Skin types = Group 3 (14), 4 (6)<br />

Result = significant (p


<strong>Palm</strong>-based anti acne cream<br />

• In vitro tests of using the essential oil at 50mg/ml showed that the<br />

compounds could significantly reduce Propionibacterium acnes and<br />

Staphylococcus aureus, which are the main microflora of acne lesion.<br />

120<br />

% Bacterial Count<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

Control<br />

6.25<br />

12.5<br />

25<br />

50<br />

100<br />

P. acne<br />

S. aureus<br />

Dose (mg/ml)<br />

In vitro anti-microbial test of essential oil against<br />

Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus<br />

21


<strong>Palm</strong>-based anti acne cream<br />

Direct sebum measurement indicated a 9% reduction after 6 weeks<br />

application of the anti-acne cream.<br />

Sebum (mg.cm-2)<br />

180<br />

160<br />

140<br />

120<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

-20<br />

Sebum<br />

(mg/cm2)<br />

% Sebum<br />

Reduction<br />

T0 (Control)<br />

T1 (Week 1)<br />

T4 (Week 4)<br />

T6 (Week 6)<br />

In vivo study on the effect of anti-acne cream on sebum production<br />

against time<br />

22


PALM DIHYDROXYSTEARIC ACIDS<br />

(PALM DHSA)<br />

OH<br />

CH3 -(CH<br />

2 ) 7 CH-CH-(CH<br />

2 ) 7 -COOH<br />

OH<br />

MW 316<br />

24


PRODUCTION OF DHSA<br />

HCO 3 H or CH 3 CO 3 H)<br />

COOH<br />

H +<br />

OH<br />

O<br />

OH<br />

H 2 O<br />

COOH<br />

COOH<br />

9,10-dihydroxystearic acid<br />

25


In Vitro test for Skin Corrosion<br />

Not Not determine determined<br />

In Vitro test for Skin Irritation<br />

In Vitro Dermal irritection Assay<br />

Human irritancy Equivalent (HIE)<br />

1.4<br />

1.2<br />

1<br />

0.8<br />

0.6<br />

0.4<br />

0.2<br />

0<br />

R10 R11-A R11-1 R13<br />

50uL<br />

75uL<br />

100uL<br />

125uL<br />

Non-Irritant<br />

Moderate Irritant<br />

DHSA Samples<br />

26


3 PROCESSES TO PRODUCE<br />

SOAP/SOAP NOODLES<br />

RCH 2 COO-CH<br />

CH 2<br />

RCH 2 COO-CH<br />

CH<br />

RCH 2 COO-CH<br />

CH 2<br />

RCH 2 COOH<br />

RCH 2 COOCH 3<br />

NaOH<br />

NaOH<br />

NaOH<br />

3 RCH 2 COO - Na +<br />

+ CH 2 OHCHOHCH 2 OH<br />

RCH 2 COO - Na +<br />

RCH 2 COO - Na +<br />

+ CH 3 OH<br />

Soap noodles<br />

USP glycerin<br />

Soap noodles<br />

Soap noodles<br />

29


DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE<br />

VARIOUS SOAP NOODLES<br />

Saponification of<br />

oils/fats<br />

FAC depend on the<br />

types and ratio of<br />

various oils/fats<br />

used<br />

Neutralization of<br />

fatty acids<br />

FAC can be varied<br />

by selecting the<br />

fatty acids to<br />

neutralize<br />

Saponification of<br />

fatty methyl ester<br />

FAC can be varied by<br />

selecting the fatty<br />

methyl ester to<br />

saponify<br />

Color – darker<br />

Color – good<br />

Color – Very good<br />

Elaborate process<br />

Simplified process<br />

Process is simple but<br />

CH 3 OH can pose<br />

problem to some.<br />

<br />

30


PALM-BASED SOAP NOODLES<br />

FROM MALAYSIA<br />

PO 80, 75, 70, 60<br />

PKO 20, 25, 30, 40<br />

H 2 O 9-12.5%<br />

TFM 79-83%<br />

FFA 1.3 - 7.0%<br />

GLY 0.4 - 0.6%<br />

Sesq. Present<br />

31


PALM-BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP FOR<br />

SKIN CARE & DECORATIVE<br />

• Developed by<br />

neutralization of fatty<br />

acids and in<br />

combination with<br />

polyol (i.e. glycerine)<br />

as an agent to impart<br />

transparency to the<br />

soap.<br />

32


PALM-BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP VS<br />

COMMERCIAL TRANSPARENT SOAPS<br />

Sample<br />

pH<br />

(1% solution)<br />

Penetration<br />

depth (mm)<br />

Transparenc<br />

y value<br />

<strong>Palm</strong>-based<br />

transparent soap<br />

for skin care<br />

9.84 1.09 0.90<br />

Commercial 1 10.17 0.18 0.77<br />

Commercial 2 10.46 1.09 0.88<br />

Commercial 3 10.28 3.09 0.86<br />

33


SUMMARY<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

<strong>Palm</strong> oil is an important oil in the<br />

oils/fats market<br />

Very versatile – many potential<br />

applications<br />

Some applications compete with<br />

petro-based products<br />

Oleochemical products can<br />

compete in terms of performance<br />

and cost<br />

34

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