Newsletter 35 - October 2003

More documents

Recommendations

Info

The pictures on the previous page show the plug lead cap which had caused the loss of ignition on one cylinder. The one on this page shows the exhaust manifold hidden behind the anti-roll bar (I assume). The nearer down pipe is still in its new / painted condition indicating that the associated cylinder has never ‘run’ since the manifold was last fitted. DAS E-mail 3/8/03 Dear David, I read with relish the last N/L. Regarding brake balance valves, I would strongly advise against using the Alfa Romeo one on a Minari even in the miraculous event that the Alfa Valve is still working!!!!! In the early days of 'Suds it was common for said valve to seize up after only half a German winter. Reasons are:- 1. Minari ride height is not the same as the original cars, whatever spring and damper combination is used, therefore existing linkage must be redesigned. 2. Even standard road springs behave much more stiffly in a Minari than an Alfa so the Alfa design feature of variability with rear loading and ride height is much less needed and much less value. If uprated springs and dampers are used the amount of height change is even less. 3. Rear braking effort varies with actual detail car build, brake pads fitted, wheels and tyres and indeed spring/damper to road interface fidelity so should be set up for each car. 4. Minari weight distribution is different from '33s or 'Suds as well as differing for different engine combinations in a Minari too. 5. Forward weight transfer under heavy braking is a little less on a Minari since the centre of gravity and front overhang mass is lower on a Minari than on a 33 or 'Sud. The Aldon Mini valves or the Merlin Motorsport valves used by Minari, in either ones or twos depending on the actual brake system layout, work well and can be adjusted for particular circumstances when you know what you are about. Demon Tweeks valves also work well but are more costly. I also believe Le Mans Motor Sport and Bob Gren developments can supply suitable valves too. The SVA guys do demand that the balancers are fixed any way. They are prepared to accept drilled wing nuts or adjuster bolt heads secured with lock wire and a lead seal. "Lead Seal" I hear you cry. Surely this is not "Circus Metallica" No, lead seals are a doddle- pass the locking wire into the wire cutting pocket of a largish pair of pliers with the cavity uppermost. Then pour in molten lead until the cavity is filled around the locking Page 4
wire, allow to cool. Lead can be plumber's solder, electrical solder, or best of all old Church roof. SVA then gets even more impressed if you find a few letter punches and stamp a code or your initials on the seal, as I did on the Delfino prototype. If you talk to your MOT station nicely, they will let you set up the brake balance valves on their rolling road by the book. On pre SVA motors, adjusting the Brake Balance Valve is easy and oit can pay dividends since on a dry track day one can screw more braking out of the rear axle than would be ideal on a wet B road. Just for the record the pliers lead casting technique was developed by me and other colleagues when we were about 9 for high performance catapult shot. Best Regards John P. John thanks for that. I have forwarded it to Steve, he who posed the original question. I have also sent it to Keith W. who is at about the same stage with his brakes. The lead seal is ingenious. But wouldn’t a lead seal sink Sorry, it reminded me of a mechanical seal as used in fire pumps in my youth. Pictured as a Grey Seal with a key sticking out of its back!!! Sad I know but my initials backwards are…... Dave ****************************** E-mail 29/7/03 Hi Dave, I recently bought James Campbell’s Minari and would like to join the club. I know James was going to try & transfer his membership, however, I know it costs money to run a club and therefore I’m willing to pay for a new membership. I would appreciate a fast reply since my insurers want proof of my membership (by this Saturday). If you could email me the details, it would be very much appreciated. Thanks. Charlie. Charles When a member joins during the membership year, I will send the back issues of the newsletter and treat them as if having joined at the beginning of the membership year (February). However, if someone joins in September I will treat them differently. I will send the next NewsLetter and show them as being paid up to the following February, (a period of about 15 months) A membership card will be issued showing membership for the current year, and then a new one will be issued at the start of the next membership year. What would you prefer, Membership to run out at the end of this year and receive the back issues of this years NLs, or at the end of 2004, and start receiving your NLs at the end of September/beginning of November Dave Thanks for replying. I’ve filled in the application form and will post it tomorrow with a cheque for £10. I would prefer to receive the back issues of this years Page 5
Page 1 and 2: Minari Owners Register News Le er N
Page 3: could give me any advice for this t
Page 7 and 8: Enjoy your Minari Dave P.S. you wil
Page 9 and 10: eady to fit, all of the dirty work
Page 11 and 12: I went to Tredegar House, Newport,
Page 13 and 14: Cee Une Voiture Ce Je Montė Moi Me
Page 15 and 16: …………this (look and be jealo
Page 17 and 18: therefore decided to concentrate on
Page 19 and 20: Heading South for the ‘winter’
Page 21 and 22: Following day, YB returned South an
Page 23 and 24: First loosen the top 3 nuts and bol
Page 25 and 26: Children, they can be so perceptive
Page 27 and 28: Contacts/Helplines Members who have

Newsletter 35 - October 2003

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?