WT_2003_05: CONNOISSEURS: JOHN VARVATOS

CONNOISSEURS

Simplify!
Simplify!
After working his magic for Ralph Lauren
and Calvin Klein, John Varvatos launched
his own label three years ago. ED KIERSH
sat down with him and discussed wool
suits, vinyl LPs and the architecture found
in a stainless steel IWC Doppelchronograph.
John Varvatos prefers to design
his collection from the ground up.
In order to avoid a copycat mentality,
he doesn’t allow clothing
made by other companies into his
design studio.
Photos by Thomas Donohoe
As the applause ripples through the cavernous hall, New York’s latest
Prince of Fashion waves to the crowd, and takes a small bow.
The noise builds to a roaring crescendo, and the media mavens,
who can either hype – or destroy – the menswear creations that have just
poured down the runway, busily scribe a few notes. Talking the talk
about plush fabrics, “touchable” artisanal quality, and contemporary silhouettes,
the fashionistas love John Varvatos (it rhymes with Barbados).
For at least one more night – and this is a fickle crowd with ever-changing
tastes – Big John has again seized the moment.
“I’m always looking to push the boundaries, to execute something
that’s art with a different twist,” says Varvatos, 49, the winner of the
Council of Fashion Designers’ 2001 Menswear Designer of the Year
award who’s wearing a “simple, yet very gutsy” IWC Doppelchronograph.
“Long in awe of what architects do, I want my clothes to have
crisp lines, to have an elegant simplicity and timelessness. I want them to
be understated, not over-designed to the point someone looks like he’s
wearing a lightbulb flashing on and off.”
Creating clothes that are comfortable but also polished and casually
elegant demands more than a few sketchpads, a sharp pair of scissors,
the backing of a rich Godfather, and the diplomatic skills of a Henry
Kissinger. An aspiring, high profile designer, hoping to soar into the heady
and bitterly competitive world of Joseph Abboud, Armani and
Ermenegildo Zegna must also possess the eyes, hands and delicate touch
of a Swiss watchmaker. New York’s Seventh Avenue, the Mecca of GQ/Esquire-land
is littered with the faded dreams of many wannabes, because
only a select few survive the years of dues-paying, and have the talent to
deserve mentoring from the industry’s most-heralded powerbrokers.
Varvatos’ long journey to stardom began in Michigan during his prewatch
days, when he was only interested in playing major league baseball,
and didn’t know the difference between a Jaeger-LeCoultre Mem-
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CONNOISSEURS
John Varvatos got turned onto
clothes through watching old
black and white movies...most
notably The Fountainhead,
starring Gary Cooper.
ovox and a run of the mill Casio. Only a singles hitter during his early
1970’s college days (1972-77), he had to abandon dreams of cracking
the “bigs,” and work in a men’s clothing shop. A “born salesman” with
a quick wit and charming personality, he quickly developed a passion for
the finest silk ties, wool suits, wide-legged pants (unlike Italian anklehuggers)
and beautifully tailored sports jackets.
That fascination eventually convinced him to become a partner in a
Grand Rapids men’s store called Fitzgerald’s in 1980, but catering to
Michigan’s Best Dressed was merely a temporary fit for this upcoming
world beater. Winning raves for boosting the sales of Ralph Lauren merchandise,
Varvatos was asked by the Polo hierarchy to head their Midwest
regional office (1984-85). Again flashing his gift for selling, this rising
wunderkind was soon brought to New York to be the brand’s vicepresident
of men’s sales. That call to Mecca didn’t only sharpen the skills
of this edgy detail man (he took sketching and pattern-making classes at
New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology). Befriended by Ralph L. and
ushered into his world of ultra-sophisticated sensibilities, Varvatos found
a Watch Appreciation tutor who would soon become an American legend.
I was always filled with ideas, always thinking about design, and
spending a lot of time with Ralph,” says Varvatos, recalling that Lauren’s
Polo company was “incredibly hot” in the mid 1980’s. “Seeing him wear
watches like an old Breitling Navitimer, a stainless steel Cartier, or a vintage
Rolex, it was impossible not to notice the hard workˇ the absolute
precisionˇthat went into them. Watches, with their intricate design and
architecture, are very much like apparel.
When I saw Ralph wearing so many
different pieces (he reportedly owns
over 100 watches), I became very intrigued.
He’s addicted to them just like
I am.”
Varvatos’ education in the House
that Ralph Built lasted until 1990. During
that time this soft-spoken, “100%
Greek from a humble household” was
“I love vintage
watches much
more than new
ones, and I
prefer stainless
steel. I’m just
not a gold watch
type of guy.”
Varvatos is moved by the
modern architecture and play
of color that goes into Marc
Newson’s Ikepod watches.
attracted to the “clean and simple” lines of IWC watches, which “had a
strong sense of individuality, but weren’t too showy” (such as a white dialed
Portugieser and that “heavy but still comfortable” split second Doppelchronograph
with a dial that “couldn’t get any cleaner”). Both of
these treasures are in stainless steel, for as Varvatos admits, “except for
a square pink gold Rolex from the 1940’s, my most valued possessions
are very understated. I love vintage watches much more than new ones.
I’m just not a gold watch type of guy.”
This affection for Old World verities is strongly mirrored in his tailored,
highly detailed suits and casual separates. Yet before becoming known
for his comfortable and versatile collections (he’s also renowned for sandals,
dress shoes and ankle boots in supple leathers and suedes), Varvatos
collaborated with another American icon, Calvin Klein.
After energizing Polo Ralph Lauren, he was enlisted to work the same
magic for Klein’s men’s collection. He essentially created the cK brand
(“not doing anything serious, they had this licensed Calvin Klein Sport,
which was just awful,” Varvatos recalls), putting together the concept
for it, and styling an upscale product with “a younger edge.” But his
edgiest triumph appeared on billboards across the U.S. Entering the Skin
Game for the first time, he “reinvented” Calvin’s underwear line, in
brief, making them a sexy must-have.
Calvin’s bottom-line success led Varvatos to consulting gigs with J.Crew
and Banana Republic in the mid 1990’s, and then came another Ralph Lauren
summons to duty. Though flirting with starting his own company in
1994-95, the Va Va Man decided “I didn’t need to do it, my ego wasn’t
that big,” and he instead became Polo’s senior vp of men’s design.
“I got much more experience at Calvin Klein, I learned about factories,
and that really prepared me to go back to Ralph,” says Varvatos, sitting in a
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CONNOISSEURS
Perhaps because he hails from
Detroit, Michigan, Varvatos
makes clothes that men can actually
wear. He has been known to
characterize his clothing as
“Rebel Prep.”
Manhattan office flanked by several coffee
table-sized watch books. “I enjoyed
myself at Polo, and I certainly have to
thank him and Calvin for helping me
win all the awards I’ve gotten.”
But Varvatos eventually got
“bored” with working for someone
else. Disenchanted with all the blacks
and charcoals that typified men’s
clothing (“you look for variety, but it’s
full of copycat version after copycat
version”), he ultimately launched his
own line in 2000. Such kingmakers as
An aspiring
designer hoping
to soar into the
heady and bitterly
competitive
world of fashion
must possess
the good hands
and the clear
eyes of a Swiss
watchmaker.
Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue viewed him
as a daring exponent of “anti-fashion” (black was avoided, while breast
pockets and lapel buttons were removed from soft, luxuriously spun
suits), and as the orders poured in, he could follow Lauren’s most critical
advice.
“Ralph always told me, ‘never compromise your vision,’ and that’s
key, I don’t follow trends, I follow my gut,” explains Varvatos, who put
together his organization with the financial backing of sportswear
heavyweight Nautica Enterprises. “I’m not big on rules, I try to offer
something different, and I guess what I do is art. I’m still very respectful
of the past, and all-important details. They are the hidden treasures, the
beauty in life, clothes, and in watches.”
To emphasize this reverence for painstakingly executed craftsmanship,
Varvatos opens a carrying case filled with 25 watches, and exclaims,
“just look at these timepieces, their architecture, and precise detailing.
I’m in awe of what skilled watchmakers can do from an aesthetic
standpoint in such a small, intricate space. Wheels, gears, levers,
bridges, finishing...so much structuring. This is art. I’m always looking at
watches, and purchasing them.”
One of his favorite timepieces is a “very unusual looking,” 1950’s
Jaeger-LeCoultre pilot’s Memovox with a black face, date window and
ivory indices. In “love” with this watch (and another Jaeger with a far
smaller dial), Varvatos takes it out of the case, and raves, “what a beautiful
piece! It was produced in very limited numbers. I have four JLCs,
and these two Memovoxes I’ve never see anywhere else. They’re absolutely
incredible.”
Displaying the same sure-handed dexterity that comes into play when
he goes to Italy to select plushy fabrics, Varvatos deposits the Memovox
back into the case, and quickly pulls out a pink gold, square-cased Rolex
from the 1940’s. “I’m constantly getting compliments for this very elegant
watch,” he says, enthusiastically. “An Air Force pilot’s name is engraved
on the back, and it’s just a very simple, but handsome dress
watch. It’s amazing how many people comment on the pieces I wear.
Watches to me are something for everyday. You always have them with
you; they’re part of you. I feel totally naked and alone when I’m not
wearing a wonderful watch.”
Along with this 1940’s gem that boasts “very simple lines” and a
white dial with an exquisite patina, Varvatos also owns five stainless steel
Rolexes, including a self-winding Bubble Back from the 1950’s. Again
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CONNOISSEURS
To create a successful label you
have to be equal parts businessman
and designer. Varvatos
closely follows retail
sales, but his creative muse is
Rock & Roll.
reiterating his appreciation for “old, old, old,” he notes that Ralph Lauren
is a fellow “classicist” who feels equally passionate about watches
with “a timeless grace and simplicity.”
After suggesting “it’s understandable why Ralph has a lot more
watches than me, he has a lot more money,” Varvatos focuses on one of
his other passions. Besides collecting old sneakers, and fine Oriental fabrics
(even if they look a little tattered), he’s amassed 10,000 CDs, over
4,000 vinyl LPs, and a gleaming black and stainless steel, TNT Mark V
turntable that’s 117 pounds of Bauhaus-style machismo.
“I’m into vinyl because the sound is much warmer than from CDs,”
explains Varvatos, “and I also love the art on the LP jackets. I collect late
1960’s, early 70’s British blues, like Fleetwood Mac before there were
any girls in it. I really enjoy classic rock, the Who, and Led Zeppelin. The
music had intricacies back then, and there’s nothing like the moment
the cartridge (on the Mark V) hits that dead space between the grooves.
With this solidly engineered turntable the music is much more relaxing
than anything the whole digital age has come up with.”
After taking his verbal slap at haute technology, this ardent classicist
steps back into time to rhapsodize about other delightful watches. Slipping
a wondrously colored Ikepod Hemipode on his wrist, he exclaims,
“there’s so much art (in watches), and art can be crazy. This titanium
piece has very unusual architecture, and it’s virtually indestructible. Marc
Newson is an amazing designer. He’s really come up with a brilliant modern
design, in dramatic contrast to my IWC watches which are more traditional.”
As Varvatos reaches into his case to
flaunt another gem, it quickly becomes
obvious that all of his watches
are “favorites.” He’s admittedly
“hooked,” addicted to the joys stemming
from these mechanical wonderworks.
“Just look at this original Omega
Speedmaster, the one they wore on
the Moon (in 1969), it’s a beautiful,
very collectible watch,” he insists,
He calmly
opened a carrying
case filled
with 25 watches,
and exclaimed,
“just look at the
architecture and
precise detailing
on these timepieces.”
If Varvatos were stranded on a
desert isle and he could have
just one wristwatch it would
be an IWC Doppelchronograph.
proudly. “I really enjoy wearing it, and the same goes for my very attractive
old Movados. I like the details of these chronographs. They’re simple,
much like my clothes. Simplicity, simplicity, simplicity. Nothing over
the top. We call the details of our clothes hidden treasures. They’re the
type of thing you don’t notice. You open up a suit jacket, or a sports jacket,
and there are all these details, just like inside a watch, or on the dial.
A guilloche dial can be totally spectacular. Totally!”
The impromptu beauty parade continues with a flourish. Displaying a
vintage Breitling Navitimer, he raves, “I love this one with the reddish orange
hands. I have two Navitimers with left hand winding crowns.
They’re quite distinctive. They have a very nice ‘pop’ to them.”
Savoring the details on the Navitimer, Varvatos continues, “I really enjoy
Breitling’s flight watches from the 1950’s and 60’s. The old ones have
beautiful faces, and mine have this wonderful patina on the dials. I have
six or eight Breitlings. They’re very unique and special.” None of this
watch talk comes across as boasting. Varvatos simply seems eager to
share his love for these vintage pieces – and to escape the rigors of his
stressful world.
After our meeting, Varvatos will hop on a plane to visit a few Italian
fabric factories. He’s constantly traveling, and during these jaunts, one
watch in particular always makes the hours pass more sweetly.
“Though each of my watches has some special appeal, if I had to pick
my ultimate timepiece, the one with the best design, it would be an IWC
Doppelchronograph,” confesses Varvatos, who took a leading, hands-on
role in styling the “honest masculine aesthetic” resonating in his uncluttered,
SoHo men’s shop (a few IWCs and Ikepods are tastefully displayed).
“I appreciate the Doppelchronograph’s great weight. But that’s me.
I’m very impressed with IWC. Watches have a heritage, tell a story, and
best of all, they’re fun to discover. Particularly when you’ve been looking
for a certain watch for a long time. Finding one is unbelievably exciting.”
46 WatchTime October 2003