WT_2003_05: CONNOISSEURS: JOHN VARVATOS

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CONNOISSEURS Perhaps because he hails from Detroit, Michigan, Varvatos makes clothes that men can actually wear. He has been known to characterize his clothing as “Rebel Prep.” Manhattan office flanked by several coffee table-sized watch books. “I enjoyed myself at Polo, and I certainly have to thank him and Calvin for helping me win all the awards I’ve gotten.” But Varvatos eventually got “bored” with working for someone else. Disenchanted with all the blacks and charcoals that typified men’s clothing (“you look for variety, but it’s full of copycat version after copycat version”), he ultimately launched his own line in 2000. Such kingmakers as An aspiring designer hoping to soar into the heady and bitterly competitive world of fashion must possess the good hands and the clear eyes of a Swiss watchmaker. Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue viewed him as a daring exponent of “anti-fashion” (black was avoided, while breast pockets and lapel buttons were removed from soft, luxuriously spun suits), and as the orders poured in, he could follow Lauren’s most critical advice. “Ralph always told me, ‘never compromise your vision,’ and that’s key, I don’t follow trends, I follow my gut,” explains Varvatos, who put together his organization with the financial backing of sportswear heavyweight Nautica Enterprises. “I’m not big on rules, I try to offer something different, and I guess what I do is art. I’m still very respectful of the past, and all-important details. They are the hidden treasures, the beauty in life, clothes, and in watches.” To emphasize this reverence for painstakingly executed craftsmanship, Varvatos opens a carrying case filled with 25 watches, and exclaims, “just look at these timepieces, their architecture, and precise detailing. I’m in awe of what skilled watchmakers can do from an aesthetic standpoint in such a small, intricate space. Wheels, gears, levers, bridges, finishing...so much structuring. This is art. I’m always looking at watches, and purchasing them.” One of his favorite timepieces is a “very unusual looking,” 1950’s Jaeger-LeCoultre pilot’s Memovox with a black face, date window and ivory indices. In “love” with this watch (and another Jaeger with a far smaller dial), Varvatos takes it out of the case, and raves, “what a beautiful piece! It was produced in very limited numbers. I have four JLCs, and these two Memovoxes I’ve never see anywhere else. They’re absolutely incredible.” Displaying the same sure-handed dexterity that comes into play when he goes to Italy to select plushy fabrics, Varvatos deposits the Memovox back into the case, and quickly pulls out a pink gold, square-cased Rolex from the 1940’s. “I’m constantly getting compliments for this very elegant watch,” he says, enthusiastically. “An Air Force pilot’s name is engraved on the back, and it’s just a very simple, but handsome dress watch. It’s amazing how many people comment on the pieces I wear. Watches to me are something for everyday. You always have them with you; they’re part of you. I feel totally naked and alone when I’m not wearing a wonderful watch.” Along with this 1940’s gem that boasts “very simple lines” and a white dial with an exquisite patina, Varvatos also owns five stainless steel Rolexes, including a self-winding Bubble Back from the 1950’s. Again 44 WatchTime October 2003
CONNOISSEURS To create a successful label you have to be equal parts businessman and designer. Varvatos closely follows retail sales, but his creative muse is Rock & Roll. reiterating his appreciation for “old, old, old,” he notes that Ralph Lauren is a fellow “classicist” who feels equally passionate about watches with “a timeless grace and simplicity.” After suggesting “it’s understandable why Ralph has a lot more watches than me, he has a lot more money,” Varvatos focuses on one of his other passions. Besides collecting old sneakers, and fine Oriental fabrics (even if they look a little tattered), he’s amassed 10,000 CDs, over 4,000 vinyl LPs, and a gleaming black and stainless steel, TNT Mark V turntable that’s 117 pounds of Bauhaus-style machismo. “I’m into vinyl because the sound is much warmer than from CDs,” explains Varvatos, “and I also love the art on the LP jackets. I collect late 1960’s, early 70’s British blues, like Fleetwood Mac before there were any girls in it. I really enjoy classic rock, the Who, and Led Zeppelin. The music had intricacies back then, and there’s nothing like the moment the cartridge (on the Mark V) hits that dead space between the grooves. With this solidly engineered turntable the music is much more relaxing than anything the whole digital age has come up with.” After taking his verbal slap at haute technology, this ardent classicist steps back into time to rhapsodize about other delightful watches. Slipping a wondrously colored Ikepod Hemipode on his wrist, he exclaims, “there’s so much art (in watches), and art can be crazy. This titanium piece has very unusual architecture, and it’s virtually indestructible. Marc Newson is an amazing designer. He’s really come up with a brilliant modern design, in dramatic contrast to my IWC watches which are more traditional.” As Varvatos reaches into his case to flaunt another gem, it quickly becomes obvious that all of his watches are “favorites.” He’s admittedly “hooked,” addicted to the joys stemming from these mechanical wonderworks. “Just look at this original Omega Speedmaster, the one they wore on the Moon (in 1969), it’s a beautiful, very collectible watch,” he insists, He calmly opened a carrying case filled with 25 watches, and exclaimed, “just look at the architecture and precise detailing on these timepieces.” If Varvatos were stranded on a desert isle and he could have just one wristwatch it would be an IWC Doppelchronograph. proudly. “I really enjoy wearing it, and the same goes for my very attractive old Movados. I like the details of these chronographs. They’re simple, much like my clothes. Simplicity, simplicity, simplicity. Nothing over the top. We call the details of our clothes hidden treasures. They’re the type of thing you don’t notice. You open up a suit jacket, or a sports jacket, and there are all these details, just like inside a watch, or on the dial. A guilloche dial can be totally spectacular. Totally!” The impromptu beauty parade continues with a flourish. Displaying a vintage Breitling Navitimer, he raves, “I love this one with the reddish orange hands. I have two Navitimers with left hand winding crowns. They’re quite distinctive. They have a very nice ‘pop’ to them.” Savoring the details on the Navitimer, Varvatos continues, “I really enjoy Breitling’s flight watches from the 1950’s and 60’s. The old ones have beautiful faces, and mine have this wonderful patina on the dials. I have six or eight Breitlings. They’re very unique and special.” None of this watch talk comes across as boasting. Varvatos simply seems eager to share his love for these vintage pieces – and to escape the rigors of his stressful world. After our meeting, Varvatos will hop on a plane to visit a few Italian fabric factories. He’s constantly traveling, and during these jaunts, one watch in particular always makes the hours pass more sweetly. “Though each of my watches has some special appeal, if I had to pick my ultimate timepiece, the one with the best design, it would be an IWC Doppelchronograph,” confesses Varvatos, who took a leading, hands-on role in styling the “honest masculine aesthetic” resonating in his uncluttered, SoHo men’s shop (a few IWCs and Ikepods are tastefully displayed). “I appreciate the Doppelchronograph’s great weight. But that’s me. I’m very impressed with IWC. Watches have a heritage, tell a story, and best of all, they’re fun to discover. Particularly when you’ve been looking for a certain watch for a long time. Finding one is unbelievably exciting.” 46 WatchTime October 2003
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WT_2003_05: CONNOISSEURS: JOHN VARVATOS

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