WT_2003_05: CONNOISSEURS: JOHN VARVATOS

CONNOISSEURS
John Varvatos got turned onto
clothes through watching old
black and white movies...most
notably The Fountainhead,
starring Gary Cooper.
ovox and a run of the mill Casio. Only a singles hitter during his early
1970’s college days (1972-77), he had to abandon dreams of cracking
the “bigs,” and work in a men’s clothing shop. A “born salesman” with
a quick wit and charming personality, he quickly developed a passion for
the finest silk ties, wool suits, wide-legged pants (unlike Italian anklehuggers)
and beautifully tailored sports jackets.
That fascination eventually convinced him to become a partner in a
Grand Rapids men’s store called Fitzgerald’s in 1980, but catering to
Michigan’s Best Dressed was merely a temporary fit for this upcoming
world beater. Winning raves for boosting the sales of Ralph Lauren merchandise,
Varvatos was asked by the Polo hierarchy to head their Midwest
regional office (1984-85). Again flashing his gift for selling, this rising
wunderkind was soon brought to New York to be the brand’s vicepresident
of men’s sales. That call to Mecca didn’t only sharpen the skills
of this edgy detail man (he took sketching and pattern-making classes at
New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology). Befriended by Ralph L. and
ushered into his world of ultra-sophisticated sensibilities, Varvatos found
a Watch Appreciation tutor who would soon become an American legend.
I was always filled with ideas, always thinking about design, and
spending a lot of time with Ralph,” says Varvatos, recalling that Lauren’s
Polo company was “incredibly hot” in the mid 1980’s. “Seeing him wear
watches like an old Breitling Navitimer, a stainless steel Cartier, or a vintage
Rolex, it was impossible not to notice the hard workˇ the absolute
precisionˇthat went into them. Watches, with their intricate design and
architecture, are very much like apparel.
When I saw Ralph wearing so many
different pieces (he reportedly owns
over 100 watches), I became very intrigued.
He’s addicted to them just like
I am.”
Varvatos’ education in the House
that Ralph Built lasted until 1990. During
that time this soft-spoken, “100%
Greek from a humble household” was
“I love vintage
watches much
more than new
ones, and I
prefer stainless
steel. I’m just
not a gold watch
type of guy.”
Varvatos is moved by the
modern architecture and play
of color that goes into Marc
Newson’s Ikepod watches.
attracted to the “clean and simple” lines of IWC watches, which “had a
strong sense of individuality, but weren’t too showy” (such as a white dialed
Portugieser and that “heavy but still comfortable” split second Doppelchronograph
with a dial that “couldn’t get any cleaner”). Both of
these treasures are in stainless steel, for as Varvatos admits, “except for
a square pink gold Rolex from the 1940’s, my most valued possessions
are very understated. I love vintage watches much more than new ones.
I’m just not a gold watch type of guy.”
This affection for Old World verities is strongly mirrored in his tailored,
highly detailed suits and casual separates. Yet before becoming known
for his comfortable and versatile collections (he’s also renowned for sandals,
dress shoes and ankle boots in supple leathers and suedes), Varvatos
collaborated with another American icon, Calvin Klein.
After energizing Polo Ralph Lauren, he was enlisted to work the same
magic for Klein’s men’s collection. He essentially created the cK brand
(“not doing anything serious, they had this licensed Calvin Klein Sport,
which was just awful,” Varvatos recalls), putting together the concept
for it, and styling an upscale product with “a younger edge.” But his
edgiest triumph appeared on billboards across the U.S. Entering the Skin
Game for the first time, he “reinvented” Calvin’s underwear line, in
brief, making them a sexy must-have.
Calvin’s bottom-line success led Varvatos to consulting gigs with J.Crew
and Banana Republic in the mid 1990’s, and then came another Ralph Lauren
summons to duty. Though flirting with starting his own company in
1994-95, the Va Va Man decided “I didn’t need to do it, my ego wasn’t
that big,” and he instead became Polo’s senior vp of men’s design.
“I got much more experience at Calvin Klein, I learned about factories,
and that really prepared me to go back to Ralph,” says Varvatos, sitting in a
42 WatchTime October 2003