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overview camelidynamics<br />
overview camelidynamics<br />
This is my fair weather set up. In the winter<br />
or foul weather, I use my barn, which has a<br />
passage way between two rows of pens. At<br />
one end is a large mirror and at the other the<br />
gate leading to the great outdoors. When I<br />
lead the alpacas I stand as far away as possible<br />
from them and give them the ratchet signal.<br />
I use the ultimate lead to give me the extra<br />
distance I need to make them feel safe about<br />
coming forward. I will go up and down a<br />
couple of times keeping myself at the same<br />
distance from the alpaca student. At this stage<br />
I tend to introduce the voice commands of<br />
walk on and whoa, but I suspect that they<br />
aren’t really necessary and alpacas understand<br />
perfectly well what we want them to do.<br />
Fig. 5.<br />
At this stage Kira is not being<br />
asked to go away from the<br />
herd, only alongside them.<br />
Stage four<br />
Using The Wand<br />
If you have previously tried to teach your<br />
alpacas to lead without the long, narrow<br />
aisle way as shown above, you may have<br />
experienced leading your alpaca student away<br />
from the herd and then try desperately to slow<br />
them down as they return to them in a hurry.<br />
The way to lead alpacas with both brakes and<br />
a steering wheel is to introduce the wand.<br />
Fig. 6<br />
Introducing the stop signal<br />
As you can see by the look of surprise on<br />
Kira’s face this is the first time I have used this<br />
signal with her. However she quickly becomes<br />
happy to follow it and for me to work closer<br />
to her.<br />
Please note I never fall behind her eye or<br />
ever let the hand holding the lead (normally<br />
my right hand) even get level with her face.<br />
At this stage of their training, dropping back<br />
to the same level as the alpaca tends to make<br />
them run past you. If you let your hand fall<br />
behind the eye and you try to pull them back -<br />
you will end up with them pulling past you as<br />
it is the equivalent of putting your foot on the<br />
accelerator.<br />
Fig. 7<br />
Working closer to Kira<br />
who is now leading nicely.<br />
Stage five<br />
Outside the long narrow aisle way.<br />
I set up a simple labyrinth, made from white<br />
plastic poles at the end of my long narrow<br />
aisle way. When the alpaca and I have been up<br />
and down a couple of times using the wand<br />
and in control, I undo the end of the aisle way,<br />
and then lead them straight into the labyrinth.<br />
Fig. 8<br />
Navigating the labyrinth.<br />
At each ‘end’ I ask the alpaca for a stop<br />
before I negotiate the turn. This set up teaches<br />
them a right hand and a left hand turn, under<br />
your control. Please note the alpaca shouldn’t<br />
step outside the poles whereas you can and<br />
should to give them space.<br />
I like this series of photos because it shows<br />
Aster learning and responding to very minimal<br />
signals from the lead and wand. I don’t need<br />
to have any pressure in the lead rope, as the<br />
wand is showing her all she needs to know<br />
about turning and stopping.<br />
Fig. 9 (series of 4 images)<br />
‘Listening’ to my signals, interested, relaxed and alert.<br />
How long does this process take I teach<br />
my weanlings to lead over three days, usually<br />
in the winter, in my barn. On the first day, I<br />
teach them the leading signal, which takes<br />
five minutes maximum each. On the second<br />
we reprise the leading signal then go up and<br />
down in the aisle way in the barn again for<br />
about 5 to 10 minutes each, on the third we go<br />
up and down a real narrow lane which leads<br />
from my barn to their field a couple of times,<br />
and do the labyrinth at the end of it, about<br />
10-15 minutes. This is half an hour in total per<br />
animal.<br />
Problem solving strategies<br />
• Sometimes alpacas can jump when first<br />
given the leading signal. This is your cue to<br />
keep hold of the rope, but not follow our<br />
instinctive response which is to hold on<br />
tighter. As every action has an equal and<br />
opposite reaction, pulling tighter means that<br />
the alpaca will pull harder in the opposite<br />
direction. You need to override your instinct<br />
and give with the lead rope to create that dip<br />
in the lead once more, so you are back to the<br />
contact point.<br />
• <strong>Alpacas</strong> can also rear, which in my<br />
experience is because there the lead rope is<br />
often being held too tightly whilst they are<br />
doing what you want and walking.<br />
• Confusion gets the better of them<br />
sometimes and they may kush. I have found<br />
two things which help a lot here, the first<br />
is facework, which is a Tellington Touch<br />
technique we teach on courses and the second<br />
is backing away from the alpaca to the very<br />
end of the lead rope and being patient.<br />
• An attempt to bolt once out of the aisle<br />
way is another possible response and this is<br />
another advantage of the long lead. If you look<br />
at the way I am holding the lead and its folds,<br />
my wand and the folds of rope are in my left<br />
hand and I am using my right hand to give the<br />
signals. If the alpaca bolts I can immediately<br />
let go with my right hand and pay out all the<br />
rope in my left hand, just closing my hand on<br />
the knot at the end of the rope. By the time<br />
the alpaca has got away this far they have<br />
stopped running and you can walk up to them<br />
as you refold your rope, and you carry on with<br />
the lesson. It is very important that you fold<br />
the rope over your left fingers, and not coil it.<br />
Normally, if you have to drop the end of the<br />
lead the alpaca will come to a standstill and<br />
you can walk up to the end of the rope, put<br />
your foot on it and regroup. This is probably<br />
best not done on or near a road.<br />
Step six<br />
What next<br />
I teach all of my alpacas and llamas to lead and<br />
to load because it is the easiest way for me<br />
to move just one around. For most of them,<br />
getting to the labyrinth stage is enough for<br />
them and for me to know that they won’t<br />
forget they know how to lead should the<br />
need arise. I don’t need to keep refreshing<br />
or working with them, as they don’t forget. I<br />
recently purchased a seven year old alpaca that<br />
I had bred and taught to lead as a weanling,<br />
and then sold. She had been led perhaps once<br />
or twice a year for a couple of years and then<br />
just used for breeding. A journalist wanted<br />
to use her to take pictures for an article on<br />
me and Tteam training, to my surprise she<br />
remembered everything including how to<br />
do all the obstacles perfectly and even did<br />
new obstacles that I had invented since she<br />
had left.<br />
Usually however, after they have navigated<br />
the labyrinth, I take my camelid students<br />
for a walk around the field, and some other<br />
interesting area on the farm they may never<br />
have been before, this exposes them to new<br />
experiences and builds their trust in me. For<br />
the first time I take the long ultimate lead and<br />
the wand, thereafter I dispense with first the<br />
extension on the lead, and then the wand.<br />
There are others that love working, learning<br />
and interacting and for fun I will take them<br />
through an obstacle course. If you would<br />
like to learn more about this, have a look<br />
on my website: www.carthveanalpacas.<br />
com/articles.html or look at the Camelid<br />
Companion by Marty McGee Bennett. Others<br />
in the herd will be shown and have to have<br />
a bit more training at ‘show school’. You can<br />
see the process I use for this on the same<br />
webpage. l<br />
If you would like to find out more<br />
about Camelidynamics training, halters,<br />
equipment, books and courses, or if you<br />
are interested in hosting a course, please<br />
see my website: www.carthveanalpacas.<br />
com or email me on taylor.browne@<br />
clara.net<br />
32 Alpaca World Magazine<br />
summer 2010 summer 2010<br />
Alpaca World Magazine 33