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Summer - Classical MileEnd Alpacas

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overview camelidynamics<br />

overview camelidynamics<br />

This is my fair weather set up. In the winter<br />

or foul weather, I use my barn, which has a<br />

passage way between two rows of pens. At<br />

one end is a large mirror and at the other the<br />

gate leading to the great outdoors. When I<br />

lead the alpacas I stand as far away as possible<br />

from them and give them the ratchet signal.<br />

I use the ultimate lead to give me the extra<br />

distance I need to make them feel safe about<br />

coming forward. I will go up and down a<br />

couple of times keeping myself at the same<br />

distance from the alpaca student. At this stage<br />

I tend to introduce the voice commands of<br />

walk on and whoa, but I suspect that they<br />

aren’t really necessary and alpacas understand<br />

perfectly well what we want them to do.<br />

Fig. 5.<br />

At this stage Kira is not being<br />

asked to go away from the<br />

herd, only alongside them.<br />

Stage four<br />

Using The Wand<br />

If you have previously tried to teach your<br />

alpacas to lead without the long, narrow<br />

aisle way as shown above, you may have<br />

experienced leading your alpaca student away<br />

from the herd and then try desperately to slow<br />

them down as they return to them in a hurry.<br />

The way to lead alpacas with both brakes and<br />

a steering wheel is to introduce the wand.<br />

Fig. 6<br />

Introducing the stop signal<br />

As you can see by the look of surprise on<br />

Kira’s face this is the first time I have used this<br />

signal with her. However she quickly becomes<br />

happy to follow it and for me to work closer<br />

to her.<br />

Please note I never fall behind her eye or<br />

ever let the hand holding the lead (normally<br />

my right hand) even get level with her face.<br />

At this stage of their training, dropping back<br />

to the same level as the alpaca tends to make<br />

them run past you. If you let your hand fall<br />

behind the eye and you try to pull them back -<br />

you will end up with them pulling past you as<br />

it is the equivalent of putting your foot on the<br />

accelerator.<br />

Fig. 7<br />

Working closer to Kira<br />

who is now leading nicely.<br />

Stage five<br />

Outside the long narrow aisle way.<br />

I set up a simple labyrinth, made from white<br />

plastic poles at the end of my long narrow<br />

aisle way. When the alpaca and I have been up<br />

and down a couple of times using the wand<br />

and in control, I undo the end of the aisle way,<br />

and then lead them straight into the labyrinth.<br />

Fig. 8<br />

Navigating the labyrinth.<br />

At each ‘end’ I ask the alpaca for a stop<br />

before I negotiate the turn. This set up teaches<br />

them a right hand and a left hand turn, under<br />

your control. Please note the alpaca shouldn’t<br />

step outside the poles whereas you can and<br />

should to give them space.<br />

I like this series of photos because it shows<br />

Aster learning and responding to very minimal<br />

signals from the lead and wand. I don’t need<br />

to have any pressure in the lead rope, as the<br />

wand is showing her all she needs to know<br />

about turning and stopping.<br />

Fig. 9 (series of 4 images)<br />

‘Listening’ to my signals, interested, relaxed and alert.<br />

How long does this process take I teach<br />

my weanlings to lead over three days, usually<br />

in the winter, in my barn. On the first day, I<br />

teach them the leading signal, which takes<br />

five minutes maximum each. On the second<br />

we reprise the leading signal then go up and<br />

down in the aisle way in the barn again for<br />

about 5 to 10 minutes each, on the third we go<br />

up and down a real narrow lane which leads<br />

from my barn to their field a couple of times,<br />

and do the labyrinth at the end of it, about<br />

10-15 minutes. This is half an hour in total per<br />

animal.<br />

Problem solving strategies<br />

• Sometimes alpacas can jump when first<br />

given the leading signal. This is your cue to<br />

keep hold of the rope, but not follow our<br />

instinctive response which is to hold on<br />

tighter. As every action has an equal and<br />

opposite reaction, pulling tighter means that<br />

the alpaca will pull harder in the opposite<br />

direction. You need to override your instinct<br />

and give with the lead rope to create that dip<br />

in the lead once more, so you are back to the<br />

contact point.<br />

• <strong>Alpacas</strong> can also rear, which in my<br />

experience is because there the lead rope is<br />

often being held too tightly whilst they are<br />

doing what you want and walking.<br />

• Confusion gets the better of them<br />

sometimes and they may kush. I have found<br />

two things which help a lot here, the first<br />

is facework, which is a Tellington Touch<br />

technique we teach on courses and the second<br />

is backing away from the alpaca to the very<br />

end of the lead rope and being patient.<br />

• An attempt to bolt once out of the aisle<br />

way is another possible response and this is<br />

another advantage of the long lead. If you look<br />

at the way I am holding the lead and its folds,<br />

my wand and the folds of rope are in my left<br />

hand and I am using my right hand to give the<br />

signals. If the alpaca bolts I can immediately<br />

let go with my right hand and pay out all the<br />

rope in my left hand, just closing my hand on<br />

the knot at the end of the rope. By the time<br />

the alpaca has got away this far they have<br />

stopped running and you can walk up to them<br />

as you refold your rope, and you carry on with<br />

the lesson. It is very important that you fold<br />

the rope over your left fingers, and not coil it.<br />

Normally, if you have to drop the end of the<br />

lead the alpaca will come to a standstill and<br />

you can walk up to the end of the rope, put<br />

your foot on it and regroup. This is probably<br />

best not done on or near a road.<br />

Step six<br />

What next<br />

I teach all of my alpacas and llamas to lead and<br />

to load because it is the easiest way for me<br />

to move just one around. For most of them,<br />

getting to the labyrinth stage is enough for<br />

them and for me to know that they won’t<br />

forget they know how to lead should the<br />

need arise. I don’t need to keep refreshing<br />

or working with them, as they don’t forget. I<br />

recently purchased a seven year old alpaca that<br />

I had bred and taught to lead as a weanling,<br />

and then sold. She had been led perhaps once<br />

or twice a year for a couple of years and then<br />

just used for breeding. A journalist wanted<br />

to use her to take pictures for an article on<br />

me and Tteam training, to my surprise she<br />

remembered everything including how to<br />

do all the obstacles perfectly and even did<br />

new obstacles that I had invented since she<br />

had left.<br />

Usually however, after they have navigated<br />

the labyrinth, I take my camelid students<br />

for a walk around the field, and some other<br />

interesting area on the farm they may never<br />

have been before, this exposes them to new<br />

experiences and builds their trust in me. For<br />

the first time I take the long ultimate lead and<br />

the wand, thereafter I dispense with first the<br />

extension on the lead, and then the wand.<br />

There are others that love working, learning<br />

and interacting and for fun I will take them<br />

through an obstacle course. If you would<br />

like to learn more about this, have a look<br />

on my website: www.carthveanalpacas.<br />

com/articles.html or look at the Camelid<br />

Companion by Marty McGee Bennett. Others<br />

in the herd will be shown and have to have<br />

a bit more training at ‘show school’. You can<br />

see the process I use for this on the same<br />

webpage. l<br />

If you would like to find out more<br />

about Camelidynamics training, halters,<br />

equipment, books and courses, or if you<br />

are interested in hosting a course, please<br />

see my website: www.carthveanalpacas.<br />

com or email me on taylor.browne@<br />

clara.net<br />

32 Alpaca World Magazine<br />

summer 2010 summer 2010<br />

Alpaca World Magazine 33

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