WRN WINTER 2015 (WEB)

ON OUR COVER
It’s become a cliché for restaurateurs
to claim they provide guests with
a unique dining experience.
But Justin Ault and his wife
Lea are doing just that, in the
truest sense of the term.
WORDS: Robin Brunet
The couple are the creators of Hapa Izakaya,
which boasts four venues in Vancouver, one in
Calgary and two in Toronto, and has won a
slew of accolades from restaurant reviewers since its
launch in 2003.
Justin, 44, discusses his approach to modern Japanese
cuisine at his newest Vancouver restaurant in Coal
Harbour, amidst the bustle of convention centre traffic.
He’s ordered Umi Roll, Teriyaki Ishi-Yaki, Gomaae
and many other dishes to demonstrate the breadth
of his menu. The food is delicious, but what really
makes Hapa Izakaya unique is the quantity and
when-ready delivery of the food. “Izakayas in Japan
used to be dark, smoky drinking houses in which
patrons ordered numerous small dishes — somewhat
like tapas,” he explains. “The concept is the same
today but minus the smoke, and the restaurants are
fun, boisterous, high energy places.”
While ubiquitous in Japan, izakayas are far less common
elsewhere (only 35 operate in New York City) and
were unknown in Vancouver when Justin and Lea
pooled their life savings and took over a 1,800 square
foot former deli on Robson Street almost 12 years ago.
Although Robson and the subsequent restaurants
were popular from the get-go, there’s still some confusion
amongst foodies about what Justin and Lea are
offering. “The stereotype persists of a Japanese restaurant
being red lanterns above a sushi bar instead of the clean
lines and modern brown wood minimalism of our
venues, so some people assume we’re fusion and not
authentic,” laughs Justin. “But izakayas over the generations
have amalgamated elements from other cuisines: so
in fact we’re extremely true to the concept of izakayas.”
As is the case with tapas, izakayas virtually guarantee
a satisfying dining experience. Justin explains:
“Instead of ordering a single meal and running the
risk of being disappointed, at our izakayas you order
numerous dishes: even if one isn’t to your liking, the
odds are someone in your group will like it and
meanwhile you can focus on the other items.”
The friendly and outgoing Justin, who is fourth
generation Japanese Canadian, began life in the logging
community of Port Alberni on Vancouver Island.
The journey from there to restaurateur was circuitous,
but logical. The elements included: an early
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