My Ontario

dandelion leaves. I was careful to be selective. Because the
growing season in the north is short, sustainable harvesting
is important.
“When there’s just one mushroom, I leave it to reproduce,”
Chef Colman explained, pointing to a lone white puffball
mushroom hidden beneath the trunk of a fallen pine.
Next, we discovered a hedgehog mushroom, easily
recognizable by its pale orange-tan colour. It sat squat in the
soft humus and was an especially desirable find due to its
nutty taste.
“First check the mushroom for worms,” Colman advised.
“That way you don’t waste it if you’re unable to eat it.”
Beyond mushrooms, the forest was a treasure trove of
foraging finds. Someone spotted stinging nettle; its cooked
young shoots are rich in iron. Nearby were red bunchberries,
used in pemmican by First Nations and early voyageurs, who
also harvested, peeled and ate the roots of wild bulrushes
in the spring.
Back in the lodge’s kitchen, our group compared and
admired each other’s finds. Chef Colman explained that
although foraging has a long history in Canada, new culinary
traditions include pairing wild edibles with local cheeses, fish
and grains in inventive ways. She introduced us to a set
of northern delicacies. There was a raw milk cheddar that
we sliced thinly and tucked alongside slices of local pears for
quesadillas. Chunks of smoked trout from the Purvis Brothers
of Manitoulin Island topped goat cheese canapés. Tiny pickled
milkweed pods, with a tang much like a Mediterranean caper,
were sprinkled around the platter.
We carried our fixings out to the lodge’s deck overlooking
tranquil James Lake. Our mixed salad of French sorrel,
ox-eye daisy leaf, mâche and wild dandelion greens made an
enticing centrepiece.
As we dipped our forks into the bounty of our harvest, we
listened to grey jays squawking from the top of a towering white
pine and revelled in all that Ontario’s north had to offer. For
me, a highlight of the meal was the dandelion greens. Their
pleasantly bitter flavour reminded me of escarole, and I was
eager to compare tasting notes with my mother back in the city.
Soon it was time for dessert. Wild rose ice cream anyone MO
– Michele Peterson is a Toronto-based freelance writer specializing in travel,
outdoor adventure and food.
ontariosnearnorth.on.ca
1-800-387-0516
ontariotravel.net/getaway
Although northeastern Ontario
is best known for its wilderness
hiking and canoeing, it also offers
excellent foraging opportunities.
GETTING THERE
Temagami is a five-hour drive north of Toronto.
Ontario Northland offers train service from Toronto’s
Union Station to Temagami from Sunday to Friday
year-round on the Northlander.
ontarionorthland.ca
1-800-461-8558
Smoothwater Outfitters
and Ecolodge
This four-season wilderness centre offers hiking,
kayaking, canoeing, cross-country skiing and organic
regional cuisine at its lakeside lodge.
smoothwater.com
1-888-569-4539
54
MY ONTARIO • ontariotravel.net
Opposite, clockwise from top left: Roots, leaves and other parts of wild plants
are fun foods to consider when foraging. Photo: Smoothwater of Temagami,
Caryn Colman; Blueberries are full of antioxidants; A salad is a tasty way to
use wild edibles.
ontariotravel.net • MY ONTARIO 55