My Ontario

Escape 

to paradise 

www.rbg.ca/319 

MY 

EXPLORE Royal Botanical Gardens, a National Historic Site of Canada, 

featuring over 1,100 hectares of breathtaking gardens and nature sanctuaries. 

• Outdoor display gardens and an Arboretum 

• A Mediterranean Garden under glass 

• Three on-site restaurants and a gift shop 

• Over 23 kilometres of walking trails, and more 

New — Helen M. Kippax Garden in Hendrie Park Gardens (2008), and Camilla 

and Peter Dalglish Atrium at RBG Centre (2009) 

2009 THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE THIS ontariotravel.net 

Lilac Celebration, Arboretum 

Iris and Peony Celebration, Laking Garden 

SPECIAL EVENTS and festivals are held year-round. In 

addition we celebrate the blooms with live entertainment and activities for 

the kids. Visit www.rbg.ca/319 for details on these events and more. 

• Backyard Monsters Exhibit, February 6 to April 19 

• Tulip Celebration, late April, early May 

• Auxiliary of RBG Plant Sale, May 

• Mother’s Day, May 10 

• Lilac Celebration, May 

• Iris and Peony Celebration, late May, early June 

• Tranquil Tuesdays, June and July 

• Father’s Day, June 21 

• Rose Celebration, late June, early July 

• Picnics in Paradise, July to Labour Day 

• Red-Hot Jazz & Cool Blues, July through September 

• Earth Art, July to Thanksgiving (TBD) 

• Holiday Traditions, weekends, November 28 to December 13 

LET YOUR MIND GROW — Royal Botanical Gardens 

offers learners of all ages a variety of courses and programs exploring the 

relationship between people, plants and nature. Day camps for kids are 

offered during all school holidays. Online registration at www.rbg.ca/319. 

Rose Celebration, Hendrie Park Gardens 

RBG Centre, 680 Plains Road West, Hamilton/Burlington 

ADMISSION APPLIES 905-527-1158, 1-800-694-4769; www.rbg.ca/319 

BECOME A MEMBER — An annual membership 

starts at only $50. Benefits include free or preferred admission to all garden 

areas and special events, plus discounts on adult education programs, 

children’s camps, at the gift shop and café, and more. Sign up or renew your 

membership online at www.rbg.ca/319. Gift membership available. 

Admit One 

BUY 

Online 

www.rbg.ca 

DESIGNS ON WINE + WILD IN THE KITCHEN + BUMP IN THE NIGHT

yet intimate 

contents 

56 

features 

48 

44 Designs on Wine 

Modern style and architectural details put Niagara’s 

wineries on the map. 

48 Chilling out in Kingston with 

the Sibs 

A sojourn to Kingston is the perfect opportunity for some 

sisterly bonding. 

ByWard Market 

52 Wild in the Kitchen 

Cooking with Ontario’s wild edibles is a flavour adventure. 

National Gallery of Canada 

Discover Ottawa, a world capital of impressive landmark sites, culture 

and celebration—with a surprisingly relaxed and welcoming charm. 

Come see famous sights like Parliament Hill and the UNESCO World 

Heritage Site Rideau Canal. Explore special exhibitions at national 

museums. Shop, dine and unwind in the hip ByWard Market district. 

And enjoy the great outdoors in the heart of the city. Visit online or call 

to book your hotel or getaway package today. 

76 

56 Par Excellence 

Fun is just a swing away at some of Ontario’s golf courses. 

64 Ontario’s Artisan Cheeses 

Tempt your tastebuds with a look at Ontario’s carefully 

crafted cheeses. 

70 Read All About It 

Visiting the haunts of Ontario’s literary giants brings their 

words to life. 

76 Gardens by Rail 

With lots of gardens to discover, it’s all aboard for the 

flower faithful. 

Cover: Clifton Hill, Niagara Falls 

The 

2 

Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site 

MY ONTARIO • ontariotravel.net 

1-888-OTTAWA-8 

WWW.OTTAWATOURISM.CA 

ontariotravel.net • MY ONTARIO 3

features 

84 Please Touch! 

Kid-friendly galleries introduce art to the next generation 

of budding Picassos. 

92 Ontario Outings + Quirky Quiz = 

Family Fun 

Take the quiz and discover your family’s vacation style – 

for great adventure ideas. 

98 Overnight on Nipissing Ice 

A stay in a cool ice fishing hut is full of surprises. 

102 And the Beat Goes On… 

A Pow Wow gets the whole family in the party spirit. 

106 Bump in the Night 

Haunted happenings make for a very spooky Halloween. 

departments 

102 

Sweet Memories. 

Sweet Dreams. 

At Choice Hotels, ® we’ve got 

sleeping soundly down to a sure 

thing. Our promise: A warm 

welcome and clean, comfortable, 

affordable accommodations. 

Wherever your travels take you, a 

great night’s sleep is never far 

away. Explore the wonders of 

Ontario by day, then tuck 

in to a Choice hotel. 

Sweet Dreams. 

Call today or go online to take 

advantage of our special Ontario 

rate, LONT. You’ll save 15% 

on your next stay. 

9 Guest Editor 

10 Contributors 

13 My Ontario Showcase 

111 Great Escapes 

124 Resources 

130 The Story Behind… 

13 111 

15% 

SAVE 

800.4CHOICE 

choicehotelsontario.ca 

©2008 Choice Hotels Canada Inc. All rights reserved. Subject to availability. Certain restrictions may apply. 

4 

MY ONTARIO • ontariotravel.net

MY 

come 

E X P L O R E T H E 

discover 

H E A R T O F S O U T H W E 

london 

S T E R N O N T A R I O 

ontariotravel.net 

Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation (OTMPC) 

Ontario Ministry of Tourism 

Magazine Design and Layout: FUEL Advertising Inc. 

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES 

For editorial enquiries please contact Nicole Leaper, Publications Manager, OTMPC 

(416) 314-7378 or editor@ontariotravel.net 

ADVERTISING SALES 

Please visit www.tourismpartners.com (click on partnership opportunities). 

Or call Nicole Papineau, OTMPC – Sales 

Toll-free 1-888-365-4422 or (416) 212-1886 

Email: otmp.sales@ontario.ca 

ADDITIONAL TRAVEL INFORMATION 

For additional travel information on Ontario, please call the following numbers: 

From Toronto Calling Area 

English: (905) 282-1721 French: (905) 612-8776 

From Canada, Continental U.S.A. and Hawaii 

English: 1-800-ONTARIO or 1-800-668-2746 

From Canada: French: 1-800-268-3736 

Teletypewriter – TTY/Telecommunications Device 

for the Deaf (TDD): (905) 612-0870 

grand theatre 

best western lamplighter inn 

We provide information to assist travellers with disabilities. Accessibility information 

is collected to address a variety of special needs. Please call the toll-free line and counsellors will 

assist you with the details you need to plan and enjoy travel throughout Ontario. 

INTERNATIONAL ENQUIRIES 

Contact the appropriate Canadian embassy or overseas consulate for information on Ontario. 

For more information, visit www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/world/embassies/menu-en.asp on the Internet. 

International visitors can also obtain information on Ontario through ontariotravel.net 

RENSEIGNEMENTS EN FRANÇAIS 

Nous sommes heureux de vous offrir un service d’information touristique en français. 

Veuillez composer le (905) 612-8776 et il nous fera plaisir de vous aider. 

Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation accepts no liability for errors or omissions. 

The information and services contained in this publication are offered as a matter of interest and are 

believed to be correct and accurate at the time of printing. The inclusion of any advertisement in this publication 

does not imply or constitute an endorsement or acceptance by the Province of Ontario of any of the advertisers, 

products or services advertised, and the Ontario Ministry of Tourism is not responsible for errors or omissions or 

misrepresentations contained in any advertisement. Published once a year. All rights reserved. 

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from 

Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation. 

© Queen’s Printer for Ontario, 2009. 

Produced by Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation 

(an agency of the Government of Ontario). 

Photos © Ontario Tourism, 2009, unless otherwise indicated. 

storybook gardens 

For more information call 1-800-265-2602 or visit www.londontourism.ca 

hilton london 

6 


© 2009 Printed in Canada 

Printer: Quebecor 

E&OE 05-09-475M-7009-2009 

A Tropical Paradise! Indoor 

Pool, Waterslide, Palm Trees, 

Exercise Room, Restaurant, 

Bar, Complimentary Parking, 

Wi-Fi Internet. 

www.lamplighterinn.ca 

Where warm waters meet pristine 

beaches within quaint coastal 

communities – each with their own 

unique story. Experience Elgin - 

where passion meets place. 

www.elgintourist.com 

Featuring professional, talented 

artists and providing compelling, live 

theatre, The Grand Theatre features 

a season of comedies, musicals and 

dramas from September to April. 

www.grandtheatre.com 

London’s only four diamond 

hotel located in the heart of 

downtown London and within 

walking distance of major 

attractions. 

www.londonontario.hilton.com 

“Stay Smart at the Holiday 

Inn Express Hotel & Suites 

in beautiful downtown 

London” 

www.hiexpress.com/londonon 

Play areas, zoo and farm 

animals, spray pad, puppetry 

and more! Perfect for families 

with young children. 

Boutique Hotel, Conference 

Centre and casual fine dining 

in Windermere’s Cafe with 

complimentary parking. 

ontariotravel.net • MY ONTARIO 7 

www.storybook.london.ca www.windermeremanor.com

WHEREVER YOU’RE HEADED, 

A GREAT STAY IS NEVER FAR AWAY 

guest 

editor 

ENJOY SPECIAL SAVINGS JUST 

FOR ONTARIO TRAVELLERS. 

Ontario is full of great things to see and do, and with 

Holiday Inn ® and Holiday Inn Express ® , a fun and affordable stay 

is always just around the corner. At Holiday Inn you'll enjoy a full 

service hotel with spacious guestrooms, friendly staff, and full 

service restaurants where Kids Eat Free.* At Holiday Inn Express 

you'll be able to jump-start your day with the Free Hot 

Express Start ® breakfast bar, and relax with the beautiful 

Simply Smart TM Bedding Collection and Simply Smart ® 

Guest Bathroom. At any of our hotels, enjoy FREE high-speed 

Internet access and Priority Club ® Rewards** every time you stay. 

Book the Visitors Guide Rate! 

Visit holidayinn.com/prov 

and book the Visitors Guide Rate. 

or 

Call 1-800-HOLIDAY (1-800-465-4329) 

and ask to book the Visitors Guide Rate. 

ONTARIO 

1000 Islands-Gananoque 

Barrie 

Barrie-Hotel & Conference Centre 

Belleville 

Brampton 

Burlington-Hotel & Conf. Centre 

Cambridge-Hespeler Galt 

Collingwood-Blue Mountain 

Dryden 

Fort Erie/Niagara Convention Centre 

Guelph 

Guelph Hotel & Conference Ctr. 

Hamilton-Stoney Creek 

Huntsville 

Kingston-Waterfront 

Kitchener-Waterloo Conf. Ctr. 

London 

London Downtown 

Mississauga 

North Bay 

Oakville (Centre) 

Oakville @ Bronte 

Oshawa Whitby Conf. Centre 

Ottawa-Airport 

Ottawa-Downtown 

● Holiday Inn ® Location 

Ottawa-Kanata 

Peterborough-Waterfront 

Sarnia 

Sault Ste. Marie-Waterfront 

St. Catharines-Niagara 

Sudbury 

Toronto-Airport Area/Dixie Road 

Toronto-Airport East 

Toronto Airport West 

Toronto-Brampton Conf. Centre 

Toronto-Downtown 

Toronto-Int'l Airport 

Toronto-Markham 

Toronto-Markham 

Toronto-Midtown 

Toronto-Mississauga 

Toronto-North York 

Trenton 

Windsor (Ambassador Bridge) 

Windsor Downtown 

COMING SOON! 

Woodstock Q1 2009 

Newmarket Q2 2009 

Toronto-Mississauga Q2 2009 

Bowmanville Q2 2009 

● Holiday Inn Express ® Location 

Joseph Boyden’s Ontario 

Abitibi River 

There’s a place in Ontario that is so special (dare I say sacred) to me that I have a hard time 

writing this for fear I will somehow spoil its magic. It’s in Northern Ontario, more than 

200 kilometres north of Cochrane along the Little Bear line that chugs its way to Moosonee. 

You really can get there quite easily, if you want to. 

Guess the right spot over a certain trestle and politely ask the conductor to stop the train. He 

will. Believe me (a hint: mile 128 on the train and you’re getting very close, mile 132 and you’ve 

passed it). Near here is the confluence of two rivers, one small and rocky and gorgeous, the other 

much larger, as brown and powerful as a Cree paddler’s wrist. 

My dear friend, the Moose Cree hunter, guide, and legend, William Tozer, introduced me to 

this part of his world many years ago. A few cabins William built by hand nestle on a ridge above 

the meeting place of these two rivers. Shimmering poplar and resilient black spruce will greet you; 

the wide Abitibi, summer or winter, sparkles in sunlight. 

In autumn, you can spot moose grazing red willow on the shores. In spring, just after the spawn, 

cast for pickerel and pike that will give you the fight of your life. In the winter, you will float on 

your snowmobile over metres of powder. Summertime, ah, summertime, just paddle your canoe, 

allow the current to carry you north through the wilderness to Moosonee. 

– Joseph Boyden is the winner of the 2008 ScotiaBank Giller prize for his novel Through Black Spruce. 

* Kids Eat Free is available for kids 12 and under. (See website for full details.) **For complete Priority Club ® Rewards terms & conditions visit PriorityClub.com or call 1-888-211-9874. 

8 

©2008 InterContinental 


Hotels Group. All rights reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and/or operated. 


contributors 

Laura Byrne Paquet, page 48 

Laura Byrne Paquet is a journalist whose articles have appeared 

in more than 80 publications – including National Geographic 

Traveler, Islands and Chatelaine. She blogs about ways to travel 

like a local at FacingTheStreet.blogspot.com 

Anita Draycott, page 56 

Anita Draycott has been a Toronto-based journalist, editor and 

photographer for more than 25 years. She is managing editor 

of GolfStyle, an upscale lifestyle publication for avid golfers in 

Canada, and editor of Life, Etc., a travel/lifestyle magazine for the 

Royal Bank of Canada. She has chased dimpled white balls over 

six continents. 

Barbara Ramsay Orr, page 70 

Barbara Ramsay Orr is a freelance writer whose work appears in 

national and international publications. A long-time member of two 

book clubs, and the ‘founding mentor’ of a third, she searches for 

literary connections everywhere she travels. She is currently working 

on Frommer’s Guide to Niagara, due out in December 2009. 

Lorraine Flanigan, page 76 

Lorraine Flanigan is a freelance writer and editor whose work 

has appeared in leading gardening publications and websites, 

including Canadian Gardening. She is editor of Trellis, the magazine 

of the Toronto Botanical Garden and has recently launched 

citygardeningonline.com, a blog-azine with articles and tips for 

urban gardeners. 

James Smedley, page 98 

As a full-time freelance writer/photographer, James Smedley is 

no stranger to snowmobiles, ice augers, canoes and heavy packs. 

James is the travel editor with Ontario Out Of Doors and since 

1996 has won 29 national and international awards for writing and 

photography. James lives in the northern Ontario town of Wawa 

near Lake Superior. 

10 


Also: Elle Andra-Warner, Cathy Bennett, Anna Hobbs, 

Ilona Kauremszky, Michele Peterson, Kate Pocock, 

Tim Shuff, Margaret Swaine and Betty Zyvatkauskas. 

Royal Botanical Gardens 

History comes alive in Hamilton through tours by costumed interpreters 

at museums such as Dundurn Castle, home to one of Canada’s first Prime 

Ministers. For lush gardens, escarpment-climbing trails, and a bustling 

waterfront, you’ve got to see this! 

Dundurn Castle, Hamilton, Ontario 


Welcome to the Showcase, your guide 

to what’s new and exciting in our 

province. Find yourself in a place 

where local flavours have starring roles, 

family fun is never hard to find, and 

world-class entertainment is in your 

own backyard. All of this – and more – 

in one place Only in Ontario. 

Showcase 

MY ONTARIO 

Visit Windsor-Essex and raise your spirits! 

Imagine great getaways, delicious dining, exciting excursions and non-stop nightlife just a short drive away. 

Bring an appetite for adventure and make your way to Windsor, Essex County and Pelee Island. Affordable 

and accessible, this region resounds with life! 

Culinary opportunities abound. Taste the good life as the bounty of our agricultural region inspires local 

chefs to new heights. Tour and taste at one (or more!) of the thirteen wineries of the Lake Erie North Shore, 

Walkerville Brewery or the Canadian Club Brand Center. 

Get back to the simple life with a relaxing visit to one of our many beautiful parks and natural areas. 

The region is world renowned for the annual migrations of birds and butterflies. Windsor-Essex also hosts 

a barrage of fun festivals and events all year long – Bluesfest, Elvis Fest and the Windsor International 

Film Festival are just a few of the local favourites you won’t want to miss! 

Experience the high life with a visit to luxurious Caesars Windsor. Canada’s largest casino resort is home to 

the finest in gaming, dining and a 5,000-seat entertainment complex that hosts a roster of dazzling stars. 

Be sure to take it all in and live life to the fullest – in Windsor, Essex County and Pelee Island. 

Windsor-Essex is full of life! 

For free travel information check out www.visitwindsor.com or call 1- 800-265 -3633 


S H O W C A S E 

P L A T E & P A L A T E 

Tasty Resort Menus 

Totem Resorts 

Location: Lake of the Woods 

Totem Resorts’ shore lunches elevate traditional beachside fare 

to a meal worthy of their beautiful trio of resorts. Fresh fruit and 

aged cheeses alongside fire-fried and lightly battered fresh fish 

liven up standard camp cooking. 

totemresorts.com 

1-800-66-TOTEM 

Little Inn of Bayfield 

Location: Bayfield 

Local produce is the star of the inspired interpretations of 

classic French cuisine. The flavours are rich and unexpected, 

like scallops in a seaweed wasabi cream sauce, or a local 

forest mushroom ragout. Paired with local wines, the tastes 

are unforgettable. 

littleinn.com 

1-800-565-1832 

Lake Shore Salzburger 

Hof Resort 

Location: Batchawana Bay 

The Elsigan family’s resort has been frying up flavour at their famous weekly 

Friday night buffet. Delectable trout and whitefish, lemon pepper chicken 

and German-Austrian specialties have landed them on the Oberon Press’s 

Where to Eat in Canada guide by Anne Hardy. 

salzburgerhofresort.com 

(705) 882-2323 

Killarney Lodge 

Location: Algonquin Provincial Park 

An intimate rustic setting and traditionally inspired menu make 

classic dishes sing. Succulent ribs and hearty soups are matched 

only by the home-baked desserts. Bring a bottle of wine so you 

can toast the evening together. 

killarneylodge.com 

1-866-473-5551 

Domain of Killien 

Location: Haliburton 

A new French menu every day is the start to a perfect romantic 

dinner, completed by attentive service and an intimate setting. 

If you have a day of activity planned, bring along an expertly 

prepared picnic lunch, complete with gourmet hot chocolate 

and fresh sandwiches. 

domainofkillien.com 

1-800-390-0769 

14 MY ONTARIO • ontariotravel.net 



T h r i l l s & C h i l l s 

Topple Tower 

Marineland – Niagara Falls 

Ride to the top of the newest sky-high thrill 

ride and scream as the gondola dips and swirls 

until it feels like you’re about to topple over. 

marinelandcanada.com 

(905) 356-9565 

rides of your life 

A once-in-a-lifetime 

opportunity to see one of 

the greatest archaeological 

finds of the 20th century. 

Discover many rarely and never before 

seen scrolls, as well as extraordinary 

2000-year old artifacts of the period. 

Lectures, symposiums, and debates will 

highlight the importance of the scrolls today, 

including their continued relevance to 

the Christian, Jewish, and Islamic faiths. 

Words that Changed the World 

Opens June 27, 2009 

We strongly encourage booking advanced 

tickets online. Book a group of 10 or more 

and save, plus get access to special tours and 

meal packages. Visit our website for details. 

Wild World of Weather 

Ontario Place – Toronto 

It’s you versus Mother Nature at this 

new attraction. Try tons of interactive 

experiences – go headfirst into a 

hurricane or tango with a twister! 

ontarioplace.com 

1-866-ONE-4-FUN 

Niagara SkyWheel 

Clifton Hill – Niagara Falls 

Pile in the family for sightseeing 

53 metres (174 feet) up and witness 

breathtaking views of the American 

and Horseshoe Falls. 

cliftonhill.com 

(905) 358-3676 

Behemoth 

Canada’s Wonderland – 

Vaughan 

Wonderland’s Behemoth is not 

to be missed! With a drop of 

70+ metres (229+ feet) and speeds 

up to 125 km/h (77 mph), this is one 

monster of a rollercoaster. 

www.rom.on.ca/scrolls 

canadaswonderland.com 

(905) 832-8131 

This exhibition was created by the Israel Antiquities Authority from the collections of the National Treasures in collaboration with the Royal Ontario Museum. 

The ROM is an agency of the Government of Ontario. Photo courtesy of the Israel Antiquities Authority. 



a w e & a p p l a u s e 

Theatres 

Big& 

small 

Grand Theatre 

Open year-round, Kingston 

Operating since 1879, recent renovations have restored this 

theatre’s grandeur. With a wide variety of shows, concerts and 

tours, you’ll find something here for everyone! 

kingstongrand.ca 

(613) 530-2050 

Shaw Festival 

April 1 – November 1, 2009, Niagara-on-the-Lake 

Since 1962, the Shaw Festival pays tribute to George Bernard 

Shaw by performing his and his contemporaries’ plays. 

Backstage, there are workshops and tours offered. 

shawfest.com 

1-800-511-7429 

Stratford SHAKESPEARE Festival 

April 11 – November 1, 2009, Stratford 

As one of Canada’s premier theatres, the festival’s productions 

of Macbeth, West Side Story, A Midsummer Night’s Dream 

and much more are sure to entertain. 

stratfordfestival.ca 

1-800-567-1600 

Thousand Islands Playhouse 

May 13 – November 7, 2009, Gananoque 

Enjoy the picturesque views of the St. Lawrence River while 

enjoying the thrill of live theatre, concerts and art exhibitions 

that have been entertaining audiences for more than 25 years. 

1000islandsplayhouse.com 

(613) 382-7086 

Capitol Theatre 

June 18 – August 30, 2009, Port Hope 

Sit back and enjoy a fantastic production in Ontario’s only 

remaining atmospheric theatre – you’ll feel like you’re in 

a summertime courtyard. 

capitoltheatre.com 

1-800-434-5092 

4th Line Theatre 

July 2 – August 29, 2009, Millbrook 

Plays set in small towns or historical periods express a unique 

Canadian identity on the outdoor Winslow Farm stage. Their New 

Play Development fosters new talent and stories. 

4thlinetheatre.on.ca 

1-800-814-0055 

Festival Players of Prince Edward County 

July 8 – August 21, 2009, Prince Edward County 

This annual festival entertains with a variety of Canadian and 

international plays. Award-winners and little-knowns alike, 

the productions are brought to life in this rural setting. 

festivalplayers.ca 

(613) 399-5677 

For more information about summer theatre visit ASTRO 

(Association of Summer Theatres ’Round Ontario) online! 

summertheatre.org 

(416) 408-4556, ext. 12 

Opposite page: A Midsummer Night’s Dream – Yanna McIntosh as Titania and 

Geraint Wyn Davies as Bottom, Stratford Shakespeare Festival. Photo: David 

Hou. This page, L–R: Capitol Theatre, Port Hope. Photo: Ted Amsden; 4th Line 

Theatre, Millbrook. Photo: Wayne Earley. 

On stage now – Jersey Boys 

Toronto Centre for the Arts 

Held over! Jersey Boys continues to 

delight Toronto audiences with the 

Tony- and Grammy-winning story of 

Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. 

jerseyboystoronto.com 

(416) 590-1755 

18 




S I P & S A V O U R 

Follow Your Nose 

Explore a wine route and find out all that’s great about the grape. Check out a 

new education centre, do a wine tour by trolley or take in a wine-tasting event. 

Niagara College Wine 

Education Centre 

Wine Region: Niagara-on-the-Lake 

Drink in lots of information at Niagara 

College’s new Wine Education Centre, 

opening August 2009. You can sample 

wines from all over Ontario. 

Fun fact: This Centre is where the wine 

producers of tomorrow will be schooled 

with state-of-the-art technology and 

16 hectares (40 acres) of vineyards. 

A sampling of Niagara’s finest 

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery 

Claim to Fame: An art-house winery crafting small batches of excellent vintages. 

Tasty Trivia: Canada’s most celebrated fisherman, Bob Izumi, has produced 

a series of signature wines with them. 

Wine Notes: They’ve built a reputation as a top Pinot Noir winery, taking 

gold at the Canadian Wine Awards in 2005 and 2006. 

coyotesrunwinery.com 

1-877-COYOTE3 

nctwinery.ca 

(905) 641-2252, ext. 4070 

Prince Edward County 

Taste Trail 

Wine Region: Prince Edward County 

Follow your nose along Prince Edward County’s 

Taste Trail and discover wineries, restaurants, 

cafés and much more. 

Fun fact: TASTE! A Celebration of Regional 

Cuisine is a great way to try many local wine and 

culinary choices at this one-day event on 

Saturday, September 26. 

tastetrail.ca 

1-866-845-6644 

A taste of the local vintages 

Carmela Estates Winery 

Claim to Fame: Carmela Estates’ beautiful guest villa can make a weekend of 

your wine experience. 

Tasty Trivia: The Vines Restaurant at the winery features a seasonal menu 

to showcase the bounty of local produce. 

Wine Notes: The 2006 Vidal Icewine is a dessert wine, with flavours of 

apricot, orange peel and pineapple. 

carmelaestates.ca 

(613) 399-3939 

A Trolley Named Desire 

Wine Region: Lake Erie North Shore 

(Windsor and Essex County) 

Take a ride on Essex County’s new A Trolley 

Named Desire tour. Discover the wide range of 

food and wine available from local producers. 

Fun fact: The trolley runs on soy diesel, 

a biodegradable and non-toxic fuel, so your 

ride is eco-friendly. 

wetrolley.com 

(519) 791-3261 

For information on these wineries and many 

more, check out Wines of Ontario online at 

winesofontario.org 

A sip of what’s in store 

Colio Estate Wines 

Claim to Fame: Years of experience with modern innovation, led by Master 

Winemaker Carlo Negri. 

Tasty Trivia: In 1980, it was the first winery licence granted in the region 

since Prohibition. 

Wine Notes: Colio’s 2006 Sauvignon Blanc was recently awarded Les 

Citadelles du Vin’s ‘Trophée Excellence’ at VinExpo Asia 

Pacific 2008 in Hong Kong, China. 

coliowines.com 

1-800-265-1322 

Top: Winemaker Dave Sheppard and fisherman/ 

vintner Bob Izumi compare wine notes. 

Please remember to drink responsibly. 

20 



BURLINGTON 

HOTEL 

DEALS! 

REST. EASY. 

TourismBurlington.com 

it’s in the bag 


A D M I R E & A C Q U I R E 

With Ontario’s crop of emerging 

handbag designers, there’s no better 

way to tote your essentials in style. 

A bold laptop case in apple green, or a pleated leather tote 

with room to spare are fresh takes on everyday classics. Cling 

to a clutch featuring vintage styling or try one made from 

military surplus fabrics. This is arm candy at its sweetest. 

2 

4 

1 

3 

1. Clementine Clutch, Jack and Marjorie jackandmarjorie.com 

2. Bliss Tote, Jessica Jensen shopjessicajensen.com 

3. Trunk Clutch, Jenny Bird jenny-bird.com 

4. Slim Tote, Melissa Beth Designs melissabeth.com 



F e s t i v e & E v e n t f u l 

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS 

on and off the beaten track 

JUNE JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER 

NOVEMBER 

DECEMBER 

Luminato 

June 5–14, 2009, Toronto 

luminato.com 

(416) 368-3100 

Sunfest 

July 9–12, 2009, London 

sunfest.on.ca 

(519) 672-1522 

LOWISA 

August 2–8, 2009, Lake of the Woods 

lowisa.org 

NIAGARA GRAPE AND 

WINE FESTIVAL 

September 18–20, 24–27, 2009 

St. Catharines 

grapeandwine.com 

(905) 688-0212 

Woofstock 

June 13 and 14, 2009, Toronto 

woofstock.ca 

(416) 234-WOOF 

Photo: Courtesy of Woofstock Photo: Stephanie Berger 

EMANCIPATION 

CELEBRATION 

July 31 – August 3, 2009, Windsor 

emancipationday.ca 

Photo: Joseph Samuels 

TORONTO INTERNATIONAL 

FILM FESTIVAL (TIFF) 

September 10–19, 2009, Toronto 

tiff09.ca 

1-877-968-3456 

OCTOBER 

OTTAWA INTERNATIONAL 

ANIMATION FESTIVAL 

October 14–18, 2009, Ottawa 

ottawa.awn.com 

(613) 232-8769 

Perfect Pie Contest 

November 7, 2009, Warkworth 

warkworth.ca 

(705) 924-2066 

WINTER FESTIVAL 

OF LIGHTS 

November 7, 2009 – January 4, 2010 

Niagara Falls 

wfol.com 

1-800-563-2557 

New Year’s Eve 

Coyote HowL 

December 31, 2009, Oakville 

brontecreek.org 

(905) 827-6911 

February 2010 

WINTERLUDE 

February 5–21, Ottawa 

winterlude.ca 

(613) 239-5000 

For more festivals and events, 

visit ontariotravel.net 




F e s t i v e & E v e n t f u l 

Calling all kids 

JUNE 

AUGUST 

SEPTEMBER 

LONDON 

INTERNATIONAL 

CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL 

June 4–6, 2009, London 

londonchildfest.com 

(519) 645-6739 

Upper Canada Village 

Fall Fair 

September 19 and 20, 2009, Morrisburg 

uppercanadavillage.com 

1-800-437-2233 

JULY 

Tom Bendtsen, Conversation #2, 2008 Jillian McDonald, Zombies in Condoland, 2008 Ruark Lewis, Euphemisms for the Intimate Enemy, 2008 

scotiabank nuit blanche toronto 

a free all-night contemporary art thing 

October 3, 2009 

sunset to sunrise 

For one sleepless night experience Toronto transformed by artists. 

One night only. All night long. 

THE GREAT 

Rendezvous, 

Fort William 

Historical Park 

July 9–13, 2009, Thunder Bay 

fwhp.ca 

(807) 473-2347 

Famarama 

August 7–9, 2009, Collingwood 

bluemountain.ca 

1-877-445-0231 

February 2010 

Bon Soo 

February 5–14, Sault Ste. Marie 

bonsoo.on.ca 

1-866-899-1607 

“For a few spectacular hours, Toronto wasn’t simply transformed; 

it was transcendent.” – Christopher Hume, Toronto Star 

“Best Art Event of 2008” – NOW Magazine - Best of TO 

scotiabanknuitblanche.ca | 416-338-0338 

For more great family events, check 

out the Family Fun Calendar online 

at ontariotravel.net/family 

Winnie’s Hometown 

Festival 

August 14–16, 2009, White River 

whiteriver.ca 

(807) 822-2450 

Mark off your calendar for 

Family Day, February 15, 2010! 


Indulge your passion for local cuisine 


S w e e t s & T r e a t s 

Soma Chocolatemaker – 

Toronto 

the sweet spot 

As one of the few North American 

chocolate makers using cacao beans, 

Soma’s able to create fair-trade, 

organic treats. For a mouth-watering 

experience, watch truffles being 

made in the Distillery District. 

somachocolate.com 

(416) 815-7662 

Chef Michael Potters – Harvest Restaurant – Picton, Ontario 

Celebrated chefs introduce you to the seasonal bounty grown and harvested by the finest local producers. 

Visit SavourOntario.ca to discover restaurants featuring these Ontario local foods, 

that are sure to enrich your next getaway. 

The Chocolate Shop – 

Orangeville 

The self-proclaimed ‘sweetest 

place on earth’ uses only the finest 

ingredients and no preservatives. 

Try their handmade chocolates and 

truffles for a pure delight. 

thechocolateshop.ca 

(519) 941-8968 

Copper Kettle Chocolate 

Company – 

Prince Edward County 

Try over 30 types of chocolate bark, 

for a cure for that sweet tooth – or that 

spicy one – with specialties like their 

Chipotle Pepper bark. 

copperkettlechocolate.ca 

(613) 394-4333 

Chocolate Sensations – Paris 

While a variety of truffles and fudge 

are the stars here, the shop credits 

their peanut butter cups for making 

them famous. 

chocolatesensations.ca 

(519) 442-1616 

www.savourontario.ca 



O O H S & A A H S 

FOR HISTORY BUFFS 

FOR KARSHOPHILES 

Festival Karsh 

Canada Science and Technology 

Museum, Ottawa 

June 12 – September 13, 2009 

Celebrate the 100th birthday of Canada’s 

greatest portrait artist, the late Yousuf 

Karsh. His signature style captured the 

faces of ordinary Canadians as well as 

celebrities. Follow the Karsh Trail and gain 

insight into the man behind the lens at the 

locations that shaped him, and learn to see 

subjects through his eyes with the ‘Karsh: 

Image Maker’ exhibit at the Canada 

Science and Technology Museum. 

festivalkarsh.ca 

1-866-442-4416 

Dead Sea Scrolls: 

Words that Changed the World 

Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto 

June 27, 2009 – January 3, 2010 

View one of the most significant archaeological 

finds of the 20th century – the Dead Sea 

Scrolls. The Scrolls contain the oldest-known 

copies of the Hebrew Bible and many other 

texts, providing historical and theological 

insight into Judaism and Christianity. 

rom.on.ca 

(416) 586-8000 

FOR SCIENCE GEEKS 

Science North IMAX ® 3-D, Sudbury 

Celebrate Science North’s 25th 

anniversary by trying a whole new 

way to discover – with IMAX® 3-D! 

Completely redesigned this year, 

the IMAX® theatre now features 

an even more powerful picture 

and sound experience. 

For ART HISTORIANS 

For the fashion forward 

sciencenorth.on.ca 

1-800-461-4898 

For creatures of culture 

Whatever you’re in to, Ontario’s got your gallery 

From Raphael to the Annibale Carracci: 

The Art of Papal Rome 

National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa 

May 29 – September 7, 2009 

Rare works by Raphael, Michelangelo 

and other Renaissance masters are 

showcased in this exhibit on 16thcentury 

Italian art. Ottawa will be the 

only destination for this unprecedented 

collection of 150 pieces. 

gallery.ca 

1-800-319-2787 

Edward Steichen: In High Fashion, 

the Condé Nast Years, 1923–1937 

Art Gallery of Ontario, Toronto 

October 3, 2009 – January 3, 2010 

Photography still feels the ripples of Edward 

Steichen today. As chief photographer 

for Vogue and Vanity Fair during the 20s and 

30s, his images of celebrities and designer 

fashions revitalized fashion photography. 

ago.net 

1-877-225-4246 

Sci Fri 

Ontario Science Centre, Toronto 

Last Friday of most months 

Teens (aged 14–19) can get global 

at Sci Fri, which aims to spark new 

ideas with challenges, games and 

discussions – all while enjoying snacks 

and DJs’ spins. Check for details and 

40th anniversay events. 

ontariosciencecentre.ca 

1-888-696-1110 

Opposite: Pierre Trudeau, 1968 © Yousuf Karsh. This page, L-R: Annibale Carracci The Holy Family with 

the Infant Saint John the Baptist (‘The Montalto Madonna’), c. 1597–1598 Oil on copper, 35 x 27.5 cm. 

© The National Gallery, London. Bought with funds from generous legacies and recent donations, 2004; 

Edward Steichen (American, 1879–1973), “Black”: Model Margaret Horan in a black dress by Jay-Thorpe, 


1935. Courtesy Condé Nast Archive, New York © 1935 Condé Nast Publications. 



R I P E & R E A D Y 

OUR LARGEST 

OURLARGEST 

WORK OF 

WORKOF 

ART IS HE 

ART IS THE 

T 

GALLERY ITSELF . 

GALLERYITSELF. 

a slice of harvest life 

Foodland Ontario 

Fresh produce of all kinds is grown 

year-round in Ontario, and is marked 

with the Foodland Ontario symbol. 

Check out the website for great 

recipes and learn which fruits and 

vegetables are in season! 

foodland.gov.on.ca 

1-888-428-9668 

THE NEW AGO. WHOA. GOTTA GO. 

DON’T MISS YOUR CHANCE TO SEE THE NEW FRANK GEHRY-DESIGNED AGO. 

SAVE on groups of 15 or more. Book your group today! 

www.ago.net/groups l 416 979 6608 l 317 Dundas Street West, Toronto. 

Winona Peach Festival – 

Winona 

August 28–30, 2009 

You’re in for a peachy treat with 

parades, midway rides and the kids’ 

Fun Factory – not to mention lots of 

fun with fuzzy-skinned fruit. 

winonapeach.com 

(905) 643-2084 

Chudleigh’s – Halton Hills 

Opens July 1, 2009 for the season 

With pick-your-own apples and 

pumpkins in the fall, plus a children’s 

area with a straw maze, petting zoo 

and pony rides, fun on the farm is never 

hard to find. 

chudleighs.com 

(905) 878-2725 

The Apple Route – 

Northumberland 

The Apple Route winds through towns 

where the conditions are prime for 

growing apples. Pick-your-own at 

orchards, markets and roadside stands, 

and stop at Colborne’s Big Apple to 

grab a perfect pie. 

appleroute.com 

1-866-277-5378 

Lead Inaugural & Signature Partner: 

Government Partners: 

Signature Partners: 

Media Partner: 

There’s nothing tastier than fresh Ontario produce. Buy local foods, and try restaurants featuring the finest of Ontario’s harvest. 

To learn more, visit savourontario.ca 



A C T I V E & O U T D O O R S 

trail blazers! Horse-2-Heart 

at Ste. Anne’s Spa 

Grafton 

Designed to connect riders with horses, this 

has become a popular program. Riding not 

only provides great exercise, but the techniques 

learned to guide the horse can be a powerful 

experience in trust, intuition and relaxation. 

steannes.com 

(905) 349-2493 

Cup and Saucer Trail 

Manitoulin Island 

A smaller hill perched atop a larger 

one is the inspiration for the Cup and 

Saucer Trail’s name. With trails for 

hikers of various skill levels, the trek up 

the escarpment opens to breathtaking 

vistas of Manitoulin’s bays. Advanced 

hikers can brave the 2 km adventure 

trail, a challenging hike that rewards 

you with panoramic views. 

manitoulintourism.com 

(705) 368-3021 

VIA Rail Bike Train 

Toronto – Niagara 

VIA’s Bike Trains have special bicycle stands 

that allow you to disembark and tour around 

on your bicycle. Take the train from Toronto 

to explore Niagara’s beautiful scenery, 

bountiful fields and historic centres. VIA’s 

adding new routes – learn more online. 

biketrain.ca 

(416) 338-0499 

Photo: Katriona Dean, Ste. Anne’s Spa 

Mountain Biking 

Blue Mountain 

Blue Mountain has mountain bike 

trails for every skill level – from the 

gentle to the high-adrenalin. Improve 

your ride and gain new skills with 

biking clinics and camps. 


1-877-445-0231 

Algoma Central Railway: 

Tracks to Trails 

Sault Ste. Marie 

Load up your sleds and ride the rails north for adventure 

on Algoma Country’s endless groomed and well-signed 

trails. The train brings you and your gear into the 

winter wonderland. 

algomacentralrailway.com 

1-800-242-9287 

34 




R E F R E S H & R E F L E C T 

find your centre 

Photo: Wendy MacCrimmon 

Photo: Michael Moore Photography 

Escaping to Blue Mountain is an extraordinary experience! 

With a dazzling array of restaurants, bars, shops and 

accommodation, the Village at Blue Mountain buzzes with 

visitors all four seasons of the year. 

Whether you crave outdoor action or a relaxing retreat, 

Blue Mountain Resort is the ultimate Ontario getaway 

destination, located only 2 hours from Toronto. 

www.bluemountain.ca/myontario 

Welcome to Ontario’s playground — where your time on 

the slopes is matched by your time off them. Whatever 

you’re looking for, Blue Mountain has something for you 

— it’s your getaway and it’s perfect! We’re so much closer 

than you think. 

Northern Edge Algonquin – 

Algonquin Provincial Park 

Balance your yoga retreat with a canoe 

trip. Or, in the winter, find peace and 

tranquility with morning yoga, paired 

with afternoon snowshoeing, skating 

and skiing. 

northernedgealgonquin.com 

1-800-953-3343 

Grail Springs Health Spa and 

Wellness Retreat – Bancroft 

This sanctuary uses traditional 

methods for relaxation and 

incorporates yoga and fitness to 

centre the mind and body. Enjoy a 

walk through the calming Labyrinth 

before an afternoon of yoga. 

grailsprings.com 

1-877-553-5772 

Le Scandinave – 

Collingwood 

Therapeutic waters are the perfect 

finish to a day of yogic stretching. 

Gather your friends for a private yoga 

lesson, and then slip into the calming 

waters of the outdoor baths. 

scandinaveblue.com 

1-877-988-8484 



R E L A X & R E N E W 

Angler Escape 

Lake Obabika Lodge 

Lady Evelyn – Smoothwater Lake System 

(Temagami region) Opens June 2009 

A guys’ weekend gets the five-star treatment at this 

redesigned fishing lodge with all the perks – and pike! – 

you could wish for. The luxury chalets and European 

cuisine bring flair to the wilderness. 

obabika.com 

(416) 623-3450 

Gourmet Getaway 

Inn at Manitou 

McKellar (Parry Sound) 

Eco-Lodging 

Island Spirits 

Roseneath (Kawarthas) 

Photo: Glenn Cameron, CLEAR Communications, Toronto 

Dine in style with the Inn at Manitou’s Celebration of Food 

and Wine package. Cooking lessons will make you the top 

chef in the kitchen, while a five-course meal with paired 

wines will pamper your palate. 

A ferry ride gives you a great view of the island resort, and 

maybe even a glimpse of the gigantic Chinese checkers game. 

This retreat’s novel approach also includes a solar-heated 

outdoor shower and a herd of sheep to trim the grass. 

manitou-online.com 

1-800-571-8818 

islandspiritsricelake.ca 

(705) 295-2788 

digs of every description 

38 


Family Zone 

Mosaïc 

Blue Mountain 

Mosaïc’s family-friendly activities really ramp 

up the fun quotient. Suites with up to three 

bedrooms, heated outdoor swimming pools and 

craft and games rooms guarantee fun won’t be 

hard to find. 


(705) 445-0231 

Photo: Courtesy of Intrawest at Blue Mountain 

Happy Camping 

Georgian Bay Islands National Park 

Getting back to nature is made easy with Georgian Bay 

Islands National Park’s new fall all-inclusive camping. 

The tents are pitched, dinner is served and the campfires 

lit by experienced park staff. 

pc.gc.ca 

(705) 526-9804 

Pampered Paradise 

Burleigh Island Lodge 

Burleigh Falls 

Relax like royalty with a motherdaughter 

weekend at the historic 

and newly renovated Burleigh 

Island Lodge. Soothe your senses 

with an Island Oasis Retreat, 

and delight your daughter 

with special packages. 

burleighislandlodge.com 

1-877-565-0479 



C R A F T & Q U A F F 

Black Oak Brewing Co. 

Etobicoke 

A dedication to quality makes Black Oak a favourite, 

using mainly Canadian ingredients. Even the brewing 

equipment is Canadian and the spent grain is reused 

as animal feed for local farms. 

blackoakbeer.com 

(416) 252-2739 

Beau’s All Natural Brewing Co. 

Vankleek Hill 

Housed in a ceramic bottle, Beau’s brews beg to be 

judged by their cover, not to mention their flavour. 

With all-natural ingredients and a hybrid approach to 

craftsmanship, their bold flavours stand up to 

the challenge. 

beaus.ca 

1-866-585-BEER 

Church-Key Brewing 

Campbellford 

Encouraging folks to ‘think global, eat local’, 

Church-Key puts its money where its tastebuds are 

by using green energy sources such as solar power 

and bio-diesel. 

Lakes of Muskoka Cottage Brewery 

Bracebridge 

Quality beats quantity every time for this brewery of 

fresh beers with no additives or preservatives. With 

their organic brews remaining popular after 13-plus 

years, quality seems like the clear winner. 

churchkeybrewing.com 

1-877-314-BEER 

muskokabrewery.com 

(705) 646-1266 

GREEN BEER 

not just for St. Patrick’s Day anymore 

Steam Whistle BREWING 

Toronto 

To brew eco-friendly beer Canadians can be proud 

of, the self-proclaimed Good Beer Folks power their 

process with Bullfrog Power wind power and recycle 

every element of their packaging. 

steamwhistle.ca 

1-866-24-0-BEER 

Wellington Brewery 

Guelph 

Good beer takes time, and Wellington’s traditional 

bitters, stouts and ales brewed with all-natural 

ingredients and fresh spring water are as memorable 

as their many awards suggest. 

wellingtonbrewery.ca 

1-800-576-DUKE 

Please remember to drink responsibly. 

Beerlicious 

TORONTO 

For information on these eco-friendly breweries and 

many more, check out Ontario Craft Brewers online 

at ontariocraftbrewers.com 

Steam Whistle Brewing, Toronto 

To find more great brews, head to Toronto’s Beerlicious, 

the annual tribute to Canadian brewing. Try over 200 

brands of Canadian beer, with more than 95% of Ontario 

breweries being represented! It’s held at Bandshell Park 

at Exhibition Place from August 6–9, 2009. Come raise 

your stein – and toast a tradition of excellence. 

beerfestival.ca 



THERE’S NO PLACE 

LIKE THIS 

FOR FAMILY FUN 

This year, reconnect with the 

places and people you love – 

on an Ontario vacation getaway. 

Surf over to our website for 

overnight packages to suit every 

interest – and budget! Use our 

online Event Finder to find out 

about festivals and events, and 

the Family Calendar for lots 

of kid-friendly stuff to do. A 

memorable vacation starts with 

the planning – so visit us online! 

Feel the 

excitement 

even before 

you get here. 

Hi everyone, 

This place is unbelievable. I’m having the 

time of my life! It’s packed with exciting 

slots and table games and the people are 

so friendly. You should check it out. 

It’s just around the corner. 

Cheers, 

Steve 

Your mini holiday. 

Pick your destination at OLG.ca 

ontariotravel.net

Designs on Wine 

by Anna Hobbs 

Move over Sonoma and Napa. Now it’s Niagara – where new, 

cutting edge wineries are capturing international design awards 

and bringing a whole new cachet to Ontario’s wine industry. 

Niagara-on-the-Lake 

Visiting Niagara-on-the-Lake, as my husband and I discovered 

on a special weekend getaway, is more than an occasion to 

sample and buy fine wines. It’s an opportunity to savour design 

showcases, even if you’re not an architecture buff. 

Southbrook is the first wine estate you pass after leaving 

the QEW for Niagara-on-the-Lake. Even though it’s set back 

from the road, it’s impossible not to notice and be awed by a 

remarkable periwinkle stuccoed wall that is two hundred metres 

long and three metres high. 

Then, you wonder: what’s on the other side 

“That’s exactly what we wanted to achieve,” Bill Redelmeier – 

co-owner, along with his wife Marilyn – told us. A low bridge 

over reflecting pools separates the parking lot from a massive 

glass door that is centred on the wall. Halfway across the bridge 

the ‘wow’ factor really kicks in. It’s like Alice going through the 

looking glass, when you realize that what you think is a picture is 

actually the view through the transparent hospitality pavilion of 

the vineyard. 

Both Redelmeier and architect Jack Diamond believe that 

architecture shouldn’t reveal itself all at once. As we explored, 

there was something new and unexpected every time we turned 

a corner. With floor-to-ceiling glass everywhere, the vineyard was 

always front and centre. 

The complex, which opened in 2007 and is separate from the 

production area, was awarded LEED (Leadership in Energy and 

Environmental Design) Gold Standard, meeting the stringent 

criteria of the Canada Green Building Council. 

southbrook.com 

1-888-581-1581 

Southbrook’s west elevation at dusk. Photo: Steven Elphick. 



Stratus Vineyards…was the first winery in the world to be 

awarded LEED certification. 

A short drive along Niagara Stone Road another stunning 

building demands your attention. Stratus Vineyards, a fouryear-old 

boutique winery, was the first winery in the world to be 

awarded LEED certification. In sharp contrast to Southbrook’s 

long, low lines, Stratus is a nine-metre-tall glass cube tasting room 

that is appended to the production area. Architect Les Andrews 

describes the building’s stark contemporary lines as the 

epitome of Zen sophistication. A pleasing juxtaposition to its 

idyllic agricultural setting, this chic, urban structure is all 

about the wine. 

Under the Influence of 

Frank Lloyd Wright 

Contemporary Canadian architects aren’t the only ones 

of influence here. Frank Lloyd Wright has also left his 

imprint. Since 1978, Brae Burn Farm has been home 

to Inniskillin Wines, and its 1920s barn has housed the 

Wright-like tasting room and retail shop where you can 

sample and purchase the vineyard’s finest vintages. 

Wright’s style, which he called Organic Architecture, 

meant working with the land, not against it. While 

there is no proof that he designed the barn, his 

influence can be seen in the long, simple pitched roof 

and unusual overhanging peaks, and tongue-andgroove 

pine interiors. 

When Inniskillin undertook a major restoration last 

year, they maintained the integrity of the beautifully 

simple building while opening it up to a view of the 

vineyards, giving visitors a sense of place. Today, the 

Wright influence can be seen down to the last detail. 

inniskillin.com 

1-888-466-4754 

“Our singular focus is to make the purest wine possible,” 

winemaker J-L Groux explains. “We worked without compromise 

to develop a winery model that is capable of producing 

handcrafted wines in an environmentally responsible manner.” 

This environmental consciousness percolates down from the 

construction’s reclaimed wood and steel to smaller gestures, such 

as bicycle racks and showers to encourage cycling to work. The 

winemaking is also au naturel, using a true gravity-flow system to 

process the grapes in the gentlest way possible. 

stratuswines.com 

(905) 468-1806 

Jackson-Triggs Winery is Stratus’ next-door neighbour. In 

2001, they built what Don Triggs calls “a modern winery barn.” 

A significant departure from traditional, chateau-style wineries, it 

became a 21st-century design benchmark. 

“We needed to find an authentic expression of a New World 

winery,” says architect Mitchell Hall, who chose cement board, 

rubble stone walls, and aluminum and glass for the exterior. 

When you enter the Great Hall, the initial, awesome impact is 

all about the architecture. The towering, open lobby separates the 

working winery from the tasting room and retail shop, but allows 

each to be seen at a glance. Adding a warm, welcoming feeling to 

the dramatic linear design, a concierge greets visitors and outlines 

the experiences available – including an exceptional tour of the 

winemaking facility and an opportunity to purchase Jackson- 

Triggs vintages. 

The complex has just received a heritage designation from the 

town, recognizing its contemporary and environmentally friendly 

design. In 100 years, it will, as the planners envisioned, represent 

exemplary architecture of the turn of the millennium. 

Today in Niagara, fine wine is paired with great design. We love 

’em both. MO 

jacksontriggswinery.com 

1-866-589-4637 

winesofontario.org 

ontariotravel.net/getaway 

– Anna Hobbs is a freelance writer whose focus is on family, home and travel. 

Tours and wine tastings are great 

ways to enjoy an Ontario winery 

experience. To plan a trip to wine 

country, go online and download 

the Wines of Ontario Route Map for 

locations and contact numbers. 

Visit winesofontario.org 

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Jackson-Triggs’ VIP Lounge. Photo: Jackson- 

Triggs Winery; Wine Boutique, Inniskillin Wines. Photo: Stephen Dominick; Stratus’ 


larger tasting room adjacent to the barrel room. Photo: Ben Rahn/A Frame. 


Kingston 

Chilling out in Kingston with the Sibs 

by Laura Byrne Paquet 

Outside, huge wet snowflakes swirl in a steady February wind, 

but inside the Vinotherapy Spa at Kingston’s Rosemount Inn, 

my feet are revelling in their own private summer. 

While my two sisters relax in the inn’s two-storey Edwards 

Suite, which we’d booked for middle sister Carol’s birthday 

getaway weekend, I indulge in a scented foot soak. After a 

subsequent full-body massage, I meander in a daze back to the 

suite to hang with my sibs. In pairs, we sprawl on overstuffed 

couches near the gas-fired stove, reading magazines and sipping 

wine, as each sister takes her turn at the spa. 

With its loft bedroom, gigantic bathroom – bigger than my 

living room at home – and secluded location across the driveway 

from the rest of the inn, the Edwards Suite is an excellent choice 

for small groups or families looking for privacy and space. 

History buffs may prefer the Tuscan-style main mansion, which 

dates back to the 1850s; the Edwards Suite is newer and its decor 

runs more to country charm than Victorian opulence. 

Once all three of us have our fill of aromatherapy, we bundle 

up for a bracing walk and some retail therapy. 

Opposite and this page: The Rosemount Inn. 



Fortunately, Kingston’s lively downtown is fairly compact, so 

even in winter it’s a pleasure to stroll streets lined with solid 

limestone buildings. It doesn’t take us long to find tempting 

boutiques where we find shelter from the wind. 

Home to Queen’s University and two colleges, Kingston is 

the quintessential student town. Perhaps that accounts for the 

abundance of unique shops, such as Sacred Source (where 

you can buy a kit to clean your magic wand, should you feel 

the need), Tribal Voices (international crafts of the tiled mirrors 

and painted masks variety) and Very Shari (some of the prettiest 

inexpensive jewellery I’ve seen anywhere). We amuse 

ourselves for several hours and do our part to contribute 

to Kingston’s economy. 

But we sisters can’t live by shopping alone, or shop on an 

empty stomach for that matter. We head to an oh-so-trendy 

restaurant and tapas bar called The Tango where, in the Spanish 

tradition, we make a meal out of appetizers (tip: skip the 

calamari, but order double servings of the outstanding 

phyllo Wellington). 

If you’re adventurous, try one of the signature cocktails (and 

if you’re feeling really brave, ask about the regular Manicure 

and Martini evenings). 

The following morning we doubt if we can make room for 

the huge, carb-loaded breakfast at the Rosemount’s elegant 

dining room – but somehow, we manage. On our way out of 

town, we even stop by the popular Pan Chancho bakery to 

check out the fragrant loaves of fig, anise and pumpernickel 

bread – but by now, even we are stuffed and shopped out. MO 

tourism.kingstoncanada.com 1-866-665-3326 


Summer sojourn 

While there’s a lot to do in Kingston year-round, 

the city is especially vibrant in summer. I returned 

a few months later to enjoy a 1000 Islands cruise, 

see the fascinating Penitentiary Museum and visit 

Bellevue House, the one-time home of Canada‘s 

first Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald. 

A world-ranked biosphere 

Kayak or canoe among rocky islands fringed with 

maples and birches. Camp on a pristine site below a 

sky spangled with stars. Scuba dive among historical 

shipwrecks. Cycle along a 37-kilometre (23-mile) 

riverside path. These are just some of the gentle thrills 

of visiting the 1000 Islands, a region that actually 

comprises 1,864 tiny bits of land peppering the 

St. Lawrence River between Kingston and Cornwall. 

Much of this area is part of the Frontenac Arch 

Biosphere Reserve, one of just 15 UNESCO Biosphere 

Reserves in Canada. 

fabr.ca 

(613) 659-4824 

This page: Thousand Islands. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Shopping in 

Kingston; Pan Chancho Bakery & Café; Very Shari. 

50 



Temagami 

Wild in the Kitchen 

Wild in the Kitchen 

An edible treasure hunt in northern Ontario 

by Michele Peterson 

As a child, each summer I’d head into the northern woods to 

pick blueberries with my grandmother. My job was to bang the 

metal pail with a spoon to chase away bears. We didn’t call what 

we were doing foraging. For me, a child raised in the city, it was 

an adventure with an edible reward. 

Fond memories of bowls of wild blueberries topped with 

rich farm cream prompted me to sign up for a Wild Edibles 

workshop offered by Smoothwater Ecolodge, near Temagami. 

Although northeastern Ontario is best known for its wilderness 

hiking and canoeing, it also offers excellent foraging 

opportunities. 

With Chef Caryn Colman as our guide, our group of culinary 

enthusiasts headed into the woods, empty baskets swinging 

in anticipation. En route we shared family stories of foraging 

traditions passed down through generations. My own Ukrainian 

ancestors considered spring dandelions a welcome treat after a 

long winter. Wild mushrooms were popular with others. 

“Although some people might think Ontario’s north is bereft 

of wild edibles due to the long winters, it actually offers a bounty 

of pickings,” said Colman, as she pointed out promising areas 

to begin our hunt. We spread out slowly, eyes searching the sundappled 

forest floor. At first, edible plants were difficult to find. 

Then, in a sunny clearing, I spotted some clean, undamaged 

52 


Above: It’s easy to combine foraged finds with other ingredients 

in the kitchen. Photo: Smoothwater of Temagami, Caryn Colman. 


dandelion leaves. I was careful to be selective. Because the 

growing season in the north is short, sustainable harvesting 

is important. 

“When there’s just one mushroom, I leave it to reproduce,” 

Chef Colman explained, pointing to a lone white puffball 

mushroom hidden beneath the trunk of a fallen pine. 

Next, we discovered a hedgehog mushroom, easily 

recognizable by its pale orange-tan colour. It sat squat in the 

soft humus and was an especially desirable find due to its 

nutty taste. 

“First check the mushroom for worms,” Colman advised. 

“That way you don’t waste it if you’re unable to eat it.” 

Beyond mushrooms, the forest was a treasure trove of 

foraging finds. Someone spotted stinging nettle; its cooked 

young shoots are rich in iron. Nearby were red bunchberries, 

used in pemmican by First Nations and early voyageurs, who 

also harvested, peeled and ate the roots of wild bulrushes 

in the spring. 

Back in the lodge’s kitchen, our group compared and 

admired each other’s finds. Chef Colman explained that 

although foraging has a long history in Canada, new culinary 

traditions include pairing wild edibles with local cheeses, fish 

and grains in inventive ways. She introduced us to a set 

of northern delicacies. There was a raw milk cheddar that 

we sliced thinly and tucked alongside slices of local pears for 

quesadillas. Chunks of smoked trout from the Purvis Brothers 

of Manitoulin Island topped goat cheese canapés. Tiny pickled 

milkweed pods, with a tang much like a Mediterranean caper, 

were sprinkled around the platter. 

We carried our fixings out to the lodge’s deck overlooking 

tranquil James Lake. Our mixed salad of French sorrel, 

ox-eye daisy leaf, mâche and wild dandelion greens made an 

enticing centrepiece. 

As we dipped our forks into the bounty of our harvest, we 

listened to grey jays squawking from the top of a towering white 

pine and revelled in all that Ontario’s north had to offer. For 

me, a highlight of the meal was the dandelion greens. Their 

pleasantly bitter flavour reminded me of escarole, and I was 

eager to compare tasting notes with my mother back in the city. 

Soon it was time for dessert. Wild rose ice cream anyone MO 

– Michele Peterson is a Toronto-based freelance writer specializing in travel, 

outdoor adventure and food. 

ontariosnearnorth.on.ca 

1-800-387-0516 


Although northeastern Ontario 

is best known for its wilderness 

hiking and canoeing, it also offers 

excellent foraging opportunities. 

GETTING THERE 

Temagami is a five-hour drive north of Toronto. 

Ontario Northland offers train service from Toronto’s 

Union Station to Temagami from Sunday to Friday 

year-round on the Northlander. 

ontarionorthland.ca 

1-800-461-8558 

Smoothwater Outfitters 

and Ecolodge 

This four-season wilderness centre offers hiking, 

kayaking, canoeing, cross-country skiing and organic 

regional cuisine at its lakeside lodge. 

smoothwater.com 

1-888-569-4539 

54 


Opposite, clockwise from top left: Roots, leaves and other parts of wild plants 

are fun foods to consider when foraging. Photo: Smoothwater of Temagami, 

Caryn Colman; Blueberries are full of antioxidants; A salad is a tasty way to 

use wild edibles. 


Par Excellence 

Ontario golfers are spoiled 

by choice 

by Anita Draycott 

It’s a tough task but someone’s got to do it. 

That’s what I tell my envious golfing buddies each 

season when I set out to evaluate some of Ontario’s 

more than 700 public and semi-private courses. 

I am one of 55 panellists selected by Ontario 

Golf magazine to narrow down the ‘A’ list of this 

province’s top tracts. The truth is that Ontarians are 

spoiled by choice. However, if you’re thinking of 

tossing the clubs into the trunk and setting out for a 

swinging weekend, I highly recommend these three 

destinations. The courses are top-notch, the scenery 

is divine and the resort facilities will garner raves 

from even a non-golfer in your group. 

Opposite: Legends on the Niagara. This page, top–bottom: Deerhurst 

Resort; Cobble Beach Golf Links. Photo: Clive Barber; Smuggler’s Glen. 


Photo: Douglas Wark. 


Deerhurst Resort 

deerhurstresort.com 

1-800-461-4393 

Deerhurst Highlands in Huntsville, the granddaddy of Muskoka’s 

top-notch designer courses, was the brainchild of architects 

Robert Cupp and Thomas McBroom in 1990. From the first 

elevated tee overlooking Fairy Lake, the par 72, 7,011-yard 

course takes full advantage of the rugged beauty of the Canadian 

Shield. Bold granite outcroppings and dramatic terrain shifts are 

epitomized on the 10th signature hole, with a sheer granite rock 

face in play along the length of the fairway. Inevitably, my everreliable 

slice produces an undesirable ricochet. Except for the 

open links-style holes four, five and six, the course is a precipitous 

roller coaster – not for the faint of heart! 

To restore your confidence, take a swing at Deerhurst’s gentler, 

shorter Lakeside course, a par 64 McBroom re-design that 

meanders around Peninsula Lake. Better still, sign up for group 

clinics or private lessons at Deerhurst’s Golf Academy. Check out 

their summer Junior Golf Camps for your up-and-coming Tigers 

and Lorenas. 

After the golf, what could be more satisfyingly Canadian 

than a Muskoka Maple Manicure and Pedicure at The Spa 

The treatment incorporates the natural antioxidant benefits 

of maple syrup. For dinner I suggest a sizzling beef tenderloin 

or organic Arctic Char fillet served log-cabin style in Steamers 

Signature Steakhouse. 

For more than 25 years, when the sun goes down the curtain 

rises on Deerhurst’s live stage shows. In the late 1980s a musical 

called Edge featured an all-Canadian cast including Shania Twain, 

who belted out Motown tunes and ballads on the Deerhurst stage 

for three years. 

Shows can change from season to season but one of 

Deerhurst’s perennial favourites is Canada Rocks! This live 

stage show showcases a diverse range of Canadian singers and 

songwriters including rock icon Neil Young, hip-hop artist k-os 

and pop crooner Michael Bublé. 



Smuggler’s Glen 

smugglersglen.com 

1-800-268-4536, ext. 649 

Cobble Beach 

cobblebeach.com 

1-888-278-8112 

When Owen Sound’s Cobble Beach Golf Links opened on May 

18, 2007 it was a proud day for Willis McLeese, its 95-yearsyoung 

visionary and owner. Since the beginning of the 574-acre 

project in 1999, McLeese and his family have been committed 

to creating an environmentally sound golf course community 

that is harmonious with nature. That includes planting droughtresistant 

grasses that require minimal pesticides, geothermal 

heating and cooling for the resort, and the funding of an intensive 

archaeological study so the building plans would safeguard 

the historic and sacred sites of the local Chippewas of Nawash 

Unceded First Nation. 

Toronto-based golf course architect Doug Carrick has created 

a rugged masterpiece, which stretches from 5,200 to 7,100 yards, 

meandering around the shoreline and bluffs of Georgian 

Bay, with views of the water from every hole. Small pot bunkers, 

closely mown chipping areas and hollows surrounding the 

Photo: Clive Barber 

greens provide the fast-running, bump-and-run characteristics 

typical of the great links courses of the British Isles. 

The first six fairways create a benign warm-up for the strong 

par 5 seventh running downhill to the shore-clinging eighth and 

ninth. Then it’s over the stone Swilcan-style bridge to a brilliant 

back nine. Beyond the green at the par 3 signature seventeenth, 

Cobble Beach’s iconic lighthouse (actually a water pumping 

station) pays tribute to the spot that was used as a survey point 

back in the early 1800s by the British admiralty. The par 5 

eighteenth follows the shore, strewn with cobblestones, back to 

the welcoming Cape Cod-style clubhouse that serves as 10-room 

inn, restaurant, bar, pro shop and spa. 

At Sweetwater Restaurant, executive chef Jeritt Raney has created 

an eclectic menu featuring regional products, such as crispy 

fish and chips using local whitefish, and a hearty bison burger. 

I can only pray that he never takes the warm pecan tart off the 

menu. On Friday nights guests enjoy tapas and a cool jazz trio. 

Downstairs, The Spa offers detoxifying and hydrating wraps and 

facials to counteract the effects of sun and wind on the links, 

and a series of massages – including hot stone, and a couple’s 

experience to ease aching muscles. 

In 2007 both Ontario Golf and Fairways magazines named 

Cobble Beach ‘Best New Course’ and SCORE Golf magazine 

rated it ‘Third Best New Course in Canada’. 

When you visit, try to get down to Owen Sound’s lively 

farmers’ market, open every Saturday morning. Just 10 minutes 

from the resort, it’s brimming with local produce, crafts and 

characters. Visit the neighbouring Tom Thomson Art Gallery 

and you’ll see why playing Cobble Beach feels like stepping into 

a Group of Seven painting. 

Photo: Jim Spence 

The first fairway at Smuggler’s Glen packs a mighty punch! 

Set high on a cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence River in the 1000 

Islands area, the scenery is awesome; then there’s the confidencetesting 

carry over a deep gorge (from 100 to 165 yards depending 

on which of the five tees you decide to tackle). 

Kingston-based Boyd Barr routed and blasted this 

championship par 71/72 through dramatic terrain – including 

walls of Canadian Shield granite, pine and birch groves, wild 

fescue and creeks. At 6,572 yards from tips and 4,741 from the 

forward tees, it’s not long by today’s standards, but size isn’t 

everything – course strategy and precision will dictate how 

you score. 

Smuggler’s Glen takes its name from Prohibition days, when 

local bootleggers would load up their boats and ferry illicit 

booze across the river to New York State. But today there’s 

nothing illegal about enjoying a pint and panoramic views of the 

St. Lawrence at the clubhouse’s Moonshine Bar. 

For more than 50 years David Seal and his family have owned 

and operated The Glen House Resort, located across the road 

from the course in the heart of the 1000 Islands Region. When 

the Smuggler’s Glen course opened in 2005, it gave guests yet 

another reason to visit – apart from angling for monstrous 

muskies, kayaking and cruising the St. Lawrence. Be sure to 

work up an appetite for the resort’s famous slow-roasted prime 

rib served in the Shipman’s Dining Room, and deemed best in 

the region. Later, enjoy top-notch live theatre – and intermission 

on the dock – at the Thousand Islands Playhouse in nearby 

Gananoque. 

When David Seal decided to expand into the golf business, his 

goal was to build a course that was one of the best in the eastern 

part of the province. He received the ‘seal of approval’ when 

Golf Digest magazine nominated it for ‘Best New Golf Course in 

Canada’ in 2006. MO 

– Anita Draycott is a Toronto-based freelance journalist and managing editor 

of GolfStyle magazine. 



Tarandowah: Best New Course 

in Ontario for 2008 

Panellists from both Ontario Golf and Fairways magazines 

awarded top votes to Tarandowah, a unique inland links golf 

experience near London. Designed by renowned English 

golf course architect Dr. Martin Hawtree, this 5,380 to 7,067- 

yard, par 70 layout with fescue-lined, rollicking fairways 

and 104 pot bunkers would be right at home in Scotland 

or Ireland – all that’s missing is the sea. Greens fees are a 

bargain at $48 on weekends. 

Should you fancy a night on the town, you’re less than an 

hour from London, where there are plenty of entertainment 

options. Top acts perform at the John Labatt Centre, a 

vibrant sports and entertainment complex. Just across the 

road, the Covent Garden Market is brimming with gourmet 

foods, crafts and fine eateries. 

puregolf.net 

(519) 269-9656 

londontourism.ca 

1-800-265-2602 

More BIRDIES for your Buck 

With greens fees less than $100, 

these 10 must-plays are easy on 

your wallet 

Ambassador G.C., Windsor 

ambassadorgolfclub.com 

(519) 966-2425 

Black Bear Ridge G.C., Belleville 

blackbearridge.ca 

1-866-811-2327 

Crimson Ridge, Sault Ste. Marie 

golfcrimsonridge.com 

1-866-667-4343 

Dragon’s Fire G.C., Carlisle 

dragonsfiregolf.com 

1-877-818-0808 

Niagara-on-the-Lake G.C., Niagara-on-the-Lake 

notlgolf.com 

(905) 468-3424, ext. 11 

South Muskoka Curling & G.C., Bracebridge 

southmuskoka.com 

(705) 645-9096 

Timber Ridge G.C., Brighton 

timberridgegolf.net 

1-866-228-4653 

Uplands G.C., Thornhill 

uplandsgolfandski.com 

(905) 889-3291 

Whitewater G.C., Thunder Bay 

whitewatergolf.com 

(807) 475-4653 

Woodington Lake G.C., Tottenham 

woodingtonlake.com 

(905) 936-4343 

62 




Opposite: Kathleen Mackintosh, Founder, Culinarium, Toronto. 

This page, top–bottom: Comfort Cream, Upper Canada Cheese 

Company, Jordan Station; Culinarium, Toronto; Black River Cheese 

Company, Milford. 

Ontario’s Artisan Cheeses 

From Lemon Fetish to Comfort Cream, the taste’s 

the thing by Margaret Swaine 

Culinarium, which calls itself Toronto’s locavore store, has as 

its motto ‘All Ontario All the Time’. Among the natural, organic 

and artisanal products it offers, customers can find up to 25 

Ontario cheeses from eight different producers. If you didn’t 

know that Ontario produces world-class artisanal cheeses, a visit 

to this store will certainly be a revelation. 

The founder of Culinarium is Kathleen Mackintosh, a home 

economist who also organizes events for the Ontario Cheese 

Society. Asked to name her favourite cheeses, she exclaims “I 

love them all.” However, with a little persuading she admits she 

goes through stages and rhymes off the names Cape Vessey, 

Brebette and Jenson three-year-old. If these aren’t household 

names yet, they may well be soon. 

Cape Vessey comes from Fifth Town in Picton, a producer 

that just opened its doors in 2008. Fifth Town buys from four 

goat and three sheep farms within a 160 km (100-mile) radius of 

its production facilities. It gets its name from its location, once 

known as ‘Fifth Town’ or the fifth town to be settled in newly 

formed Upper Canada. Cape Vessey cheese is named after the 

rocky, reddish cliffscape close to their property. Their 15 or so 

cheeses currently on the market include ‘I Wish’, an Idiazabalstyle 

sheep’s milk cheese, cave-aged for three to nine months; 

Lemon Fetish, a soft sheep’s milk cheese that’s lightly aged and 

made with lemon zest; and Counting Sheep, a soft bloomy rind, 

lightly pressed cheese made with sheep’s or goat’s milk that 

comes in herbed variations. 

Many of Ontario’s new artisan cheese producers focus on 

sheep’s- and goat’s-milk cheese for practical reasons. While there 

were likely over a thousand cheesemakers in the early days of 

Ontario, the numbers slowly dwindled as the smaller producers 

sold out. Today it’s hard for small operators to secure cow’s 

milk, but the Domestic Dairy Product Innovation Program is 



Niagara Gold is the diva cheese that 

everyone dies for… 

Clockwise from top left: Niagara Gold, Upper Canada Cheese Company, Jordan 

Station, Baby Gouda, Thunder Oak Cheese Farm, Thunder Bay; Upper Canada’s 

Guernsey herd; Back Forty’s Highland Blue cheese. 

beginning to change that. The program allows a small amount 

of the dairy market share quota (2%) to go towards innovative 

uses for cow’s milk. To qualify for a licence under the program, 

cheese producers must prove their cheese is novel to Canada 

and made wholly from Canadian milk. 

Upper Canada Cheese Company in Jordan – a half an hour 

drive from Niagara-on-the-Lake – managed to acquire this rare 

licence several years ago, and along with it the exclusive right to 

produce two unique cheeses using the milk of a local Niagara 

herd of Guernsey cows. Cared for by the Comfort Family, this 

herd of about 100 animals is one of only a half-dozen Guernsey 

herds in Canada. 

Guernsey, a breed first introduced to Canada in 1878, 

produces milk that is high in butterfat, perfect for making 

butter and cheese. However, the breed lost favour as Guernseys 

produce about half the milk per cow as the now ubiquitous 

Holsteins. The Comfort’s herd has a varied diet that changes 

from season to season (hay and homegrown grain in winter, for 

example), resulting in intriguing changes in the cheese flavour 

and colour from batch to batch – part of the artisanal quality of 

Upper Canada cheeses. 

Seasonality is something maître fromager Kathy Guidi, 

founder of the Cheese Education Guild, mentioned as 

important. When asked to name her favourite artisan cheeses 

she revealed, “I lean to the firmer cheeses from Ontario. I love 

Tomme de Gaston from Oxford Mills, Thunder Oak Gouda 

(especially aged over a year) and Niagara Gold. But I also love 

Best Baa Farm’s Brebette, Monforte’s Piacere and Back Forty’s 

Highland Blue. It all depends on what is available and what is in 

season. Cheese has its seasons. I eat firmer in winter/spring, soft 

in summer/fall.” 

Niagara Gold is the diva cheese that everyone “dies for,” 

according to Upper Canada general manager Vivian Szebeny. An 

Oka-style semi-soft, washed-rind cheese fashioned after recipes 

developed by the Trappist Monks of the Loire Valley, it has 

nutty, earthy overtones and mellow, buttery flavours. Delicately 

mild and sweet when young, it gains pungency and piquant 

qualities with age. Comfort Cream is their camembert-style soft, 

white bloomy rind cheese with a silky, creamy, golden interior. 

Hand-salted and hand-turned, it has rich flavours of fresh 

truffles with an intense, buttery palate and a long, tangy finish. 

Empire Cheese of Campbellford, a community nestled on the 

banks of the Trent-Severn Waterway, earned the title of Grand 

Champion this past fall at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair 

in Toronto, collecting three first-place and four second-place 

ribbons for cheddar cheeses made at the farmer-owned cooperative. 

The win for Empire might well be attributed to their 

cheesemaker Kevin Gibson, a 27-year veteran of cheesemaking 

who joined the Empire team almost three years ago. He comes 

from a family of cheesemakers and learned his traditional handson 

cheesemaking techniques from his grandfather and father. 

Empire’s cheddars range from Extra Mild, which is a week to two 

weeks old, to four years old. 

Thunder Oak in Thunder Bay is one of the most northerly 

of Ontario’s cheesemakers. It was founded by Jacob and 

Margaret Schep, who immigrated to Canada with their children 

in 1981, and moved to Scoble Township to start a dairy farm. 

Both came from cheesemaking families in Holland, where 

Margaret’s mother was a World Champion cheesemaker. Their 

impressive cheesemaking lineage no doubt helped them garner 

the Canadian Cheese Grand Prix in 2002 for the best firm 

cheese for their handcrafted farmstead Gouda. Generally they 



Cheese Education 

Gurth Pretty’s book The Definitive Guide to Canadian 

Artisanal and Fine Cheese includes cow, goat, sheep, 

raw, pasteurized and organic milk cheeses produced 

across Canada. The over 150 cheesemakers listed are 

organized by province. Winner of the 2007 Gourmand 

World Cookbook Award (cheese category), you can 

buy it on his website at cheeseofcanada.ca 

Kathy Guidi’s Cheese Education Guild is in its 

fourth year. Sign-up and details are on her website 

artisancheesemarketing.com. Cost of $550 per person 

is for an eight-week session (24 hours total) and 

includes cheese, class materials, testing and certificate. 

Where to Buy 

The Ontario Cheese Society’s excellent website 

ontariocheese.org includes a downloadable printable 

map of Ontario cheesemakers along with a map that 

shows you where to buy. Most of the cheesemakers 

have retail shops at their production facilities. 

Farmers’ markets are a good source in the summer for 

Ontario artisan cheese. For more information contact: 

Cookie Roscoe Handford (416) 653-8546. 

winerytohome.com added artisanal cheese to their 

Wine of the Month Club program almost three 

years ago. Owner Doug Towers reports that their 

members have loved it – about a quarter of the club’s 

subscribers opt for the artisanal cheese selection 

matched to the wine. 

Visit Culinarium for a unique gourmet food experience 

that showcases exceptional locally grown products. 

culinarium.ca 

Restaurants that focus on regional Ontario cuisine are 

a great place to sample local cheeses. For example, 

you can expect to find artisanal cheeses at Harvest 

in Picton, The Old Winery Restaurant and Stone 

Grill in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Integration Gourmet in 

Wellington and at Treadwell in Port Dalhousie. Look for 

restaurants that focus on farm-to-table cuisine, promote 

Slow Food cooking or offer 100-mile radius menus. 

Visit savourontario.ca for a listing of restaurants. 

age their Gouda for about a year at the farmstead and sell it 

when it’s ivory in colour with a tangy, fruity, nutty taste and a 

slightly sweet finish. Specialty cheese shops, such as the Cheese 

Boutique in Toronto, will store the cheese in special aging 

cellars for two or more years to create Extra Aged, or Reserve 

Old versions. 

Ruth Klahsen, an artisan cheesemaker of extraordinary talent, 

started Monforte Dairy Company in the tiny town of Millbank, 

near Stratford, in the heart of Amish farmland. This quaint 

town is a star destination on the cheese lover’s map, as it is also 

the home to Millbank Cheese & Cold Storage and Mornington 

Dairy Co-op. Klahsen is a veteran chef and well-known to 

patrons of Rundles and the Old Prune in Stratford where she 

once cooked. As owner and lead cheesemaker of Monforte, 

she buys from both the Amish and Mennonite shepherds in 

the area and insists on only using the milk from pasture-raised 

goats and sheep. 

Her start in the tough business of cheesemaking was a bumpy 

one, but within four years Monforte was producing over 30 

different cheeses. The most popular is Piacere, named for 

the Italian word for pleasure. A semi-soft sheep’s milk cheese 

covered with rosemary, savoury, chili pepper and juniper – it’s 

addictive. It’s one reason I head early to Monforte’s stand at 

farmers’ markets – to get some before it sells out. Klahsen has 

recently moved out of her Millbank’s digs and is planning to 

re-open at a new location in January 2010. 

Cheese guru and author of The Definitive Guide to Canadian 

Artisanal and Fine Cheese, Gurth Pretty calls Piacere his favourite 

‘wow’ cheese. Gurth, a chef who’s passionate about his cheese, 

suggests a winning recipe of melted Piacere in roast garlic and 

butternut squash soup. “Another I really like is Cape Vessey,” 

said Pretty. “It’s the only firm, washed-rind goat cheese I know 

of in Ontario.” 

The Ontario Cheese Society now lists 16 member 

cheesemakers. Gurth Pretty calls the resurgence of small 

artisanal cheesemakers in Ontario “amazing.” Kathy Guidi says, 

“Just about every artisan cheesemaker in Ontario is a newcomer. 

They are creating new cheeses and refining recipes all the time. 

I generally give cheesemakers a year to settle in to a new facility 

and really learn what is best with their milk. Just like a musician 

who practises to be a master, so does a cheesemaker, and we are 

so lucky to witness their dedication.” MO 

– Margaret Swaine writes about wine, food and travel, and is based in Toronto. 


68 


Opposite: Culinarium, Toronto. 


Top–bottom: Morley Callaghan, 

Margaret Atwood, Stephen Leacock 

Read All About It: 

A Literary Journey Through Ontario 

by Barbara Ramsay Orr 

Maybe it’s something in the water, possibly it has something 

to do with our pioneer ancestry, or perhaps it’s the quality of 

our education system. Whatever the reason, it’s undeniable that 

Ontario is home to more than its fair share of great writers. 

Literary giants like Margaret Atwood, Alice Munro, Morley 

Callaghan, Jane Urquhart and Stephen Leacock have called this 

province home. 

They have also drawn on their hometowns for inspiration, and 

in so doing have added a layered significance to the places they 

have immortalized. Visiting a town that has been described in a 

beloved novel, or walking down the streets that were frequented by 

a favourite writer is a wonderful way to get to know the province. 

Whenever I walk through Victoria College campus at the 

University of Toronto, I am reminded of Margaret Laurence. 

I attended some of her lectures there when she was Writer in 

Residence, and while I can’t recall too many particulars of what 

she said, I will never forget her. She possessed a charisma that 

was palpable. She spoke with the gravelly voice of a long-time 

smoker, the habit that would contribute to her death from 

lung cancer. For me, Laurence and that stretch of campus are 

indelibly linked. And when I visit the quiet town of Lakefield, 

she’s present. It was here on Regent Street that she lived in a 

yellow brick house that she called ‘Manawaka’, until her death in 

1987. The Lakefield area was part of the backdrop for her novel 

The Diviners. 

John Robert Colombo claims that “through our literature we 

learn who we are.” Colombo is an author and anthologist of 

more than 200 books, two of which are maps to literary sites in 

Ontario. He’s an expert on the literary journey. 



It was said that in 1911 more people had 

heard of Stephen Leacock than had heard 

of Canada. 

In Toronto alone, Colombo explains, there are many bookrelated 

places to visit. “A tour of the University of Toronto 

campus could feature Marshall McLuhan’s Coach House, 

Northrop Frye’s Victoria College and Robertson Davies’ 

Massey College. It could include the dormitory where William 

Faulkner stayed during the Great War and, farther afield, the 

two residences where Ernest Hemingway lived, one south of 

St. Clair, the other north of St. Clair.” 

There are also numerous interesting places across the 

province that are well worth a book lover’s visit. The village of 

Thamesville is one – “Our village was so small that you came on 

it at once; it lacked the dignity of outskirts.” This is the reader’s 

introduction to Deptford, the small Ontario town where the 

writer Robertson Davies begins his novel Fifth Business, the 

first book of his famous Deptford Trilogy. It’s a thinly disguised 

portrait of Thamesville, a small town near London, which was 

the author’s hometown. The reader can walk along the same 

streets near the Town Hall that Davies walked as a young boy. 

The town is still very small. The house where Davies was born 

and grew up is in the novel, plus other sites such as the train 

station, the five churches, the gravel pit, the Tecumseh Hotel and 

the Westover Building, all of which played a role in the novel. 

Perhaps our most internationally famous author – Alice 

Munro – has lived for many years in nearby Clinton. Born in 

Wingham, Munro has used the small towns, the people, the 

personal quirks and moral landscape of her Ontario upbringing 

to write books that have achieved universal acclaim. Many 

consider Munro to be the best short story writer in the 

English language. 

When Munro was asked in an interview about the 

autobiographical elements of her books, she admitted that they 

were “autobiographical in form but not in fact. The physical 

setting is perhaps ‘real’ to me, in a way no other is. I love the 

landscape, not as ‘scenery’ but as something intimately known,” 

she says. 

Stephen Leacock is another writer who celebrated his Ontario 

heritage in his books. His Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town, set in 

fictional Mariposa, a stand-in for the town of Orillia, became an 

international success. It was said that in 1911 more people had 

heard of Stephen Leacock than had heard of Canada. 

The lovely home he built near Orillia on Old Brewery Bay 

is now a museum and national historic site. The museum has 

memorabilia from the author, photographs of Leacock by 

Yousuf Karsh, a café, a children’s discovery centre and the 

Art of Writing Galleries, which feature the works of several 

Canadian writers. 

While Lucy Maud Montgomery, creator of the famous Anne 

of Green Gables, is closely associated with Prince Edward Island, 

few readers realize that she lived and wrote for many years in 

the Toronto area. The Leaskdale Manse in Uxbridge has been 

designated as a national as well as a provincial historic site. 

It’s where she wrote 11 of her 22 books. The manse is being 

authentically restored to the period when Montgomery lived 

here from 1911 to 1926. 

Later she moved to 210 Riverside Drive in Toronto’s Swansea 

area, where Montgomery realized her lifelong ambition of 

owning her own house. She prophetically named it ‘Journey’s 

End’. Here she wrote her last three novels, and it’s here she died 

in 1942, at the age of 67. The house bears a plaque, and is often 

included in local walking history tours. 

Joseph Boyden, who grew up in Willowdale where he attended 

Brebeuf College School, won the prestigious 2008 ScotiaBank 

Clockwise from top left: Thamesville Town Hall; the rural scenery of Wingham; 

Stephen Leacock Museum, Orillia. 



eading in bed 

In the 1910s and 1920s, the site was a gathering place for 

writers and artists, and the park’s lake is probably the most 

painted lake in the province. 

74 


Bon Echo Provincial Park. 

A literary driving tour of southwestern Ontario could 

include an overnight stay. The Little Inn of Bayfield is 

the perfect place to spend the night and is close to 

Clinton, Thamesville and Chatham. The dining room is 

famous, and the Inn itself is full of history. Bayfield is 

located conveniently close to the Stratford Shakespeare 

Festival, Blyth Festival and Huron Country Playhouse. 

If your reading taste extends to cookbooks, the Inn 

offers cooking classes – using local ingredients with the 

chef and covers cooking skills like how to perfect the 

slow cooking of the Loire Valley, France. 

Great Ontario Books 

to travel with: 

“A truly great book should be read in youth, again in 

maturity and once more in old age, as a fine building 

should be seen by morning light, at noon and 

by moonlight.” 

– Robertson Davies 

These are books that are fully steeped in the 

atmosphere of Ontario, from its cities to its isolated 

farms. Read the book, and then take a journey to see 

its birthplace. The ‘place’ will resonate in a totally new 

way. And the memory will stay with you. 

The Robber Bride by Margaret Atwood 

(set in Toronto) 

Fifth Business by Robertson Davies (set in Deptford, 

a.k.a. Thamesville) 

Friend of My Youth by Alice Munro (short stories 

inspired by her early years in Clinton and central 

Huron County) 

The Diviners by Margaret Laurence (Toronto 

and Lakefield) 

Writer’s Map of Toronto, and Writer’s Map of Ontario, 

by John Robert Colombo (available through his 

website, colombo.ca) 

Giller Prize for his second novel, Through Black Spruce, which 

explores the rich Ontario background he depicted so eloquently 

in his first novel, Three Day Road. Both novels visit the northern 

Ontario wilderness near Moose Factory, and the bushlands 

surrounding the town. Through Black Spruce vividly portrays the 

clash between first nations sensibility and the modernity of 

big city Toronto. 

Hugh Garner’s Cabbagetown, Morley Callaghan’s Rosedale, 

Margaret Atwood’s Leaside – these are places that have acquired 

a permanent place in the hearts of their readers. Howard 

Engel’s private eye Benny Cooperman lives in two rooms in a 

recognizable office building in St. Catharines. Mary Lawson’s 

Crow Lake recreates the chilly life in a northern Ontario farming 

community so well that the reader may shiver. 

When I asked John Robert Colombo if there was a place in 

Ontario that has more meaning for him personally because of its 

connection to an author or a literary work, he answered directly. 

“Bon Echo Provincial Park (north of Belleville) has a strong 

association with the great American poet Walt Whitman, and 

with the writer Merrill Denison and his wife Muriel who wrote 

the novel, Susannah of the Mounties. Lines of one of Whitman’s 

poems are inscribed on Bon Echo Rock. In the 1910s and 1920s, 

the site was a gathering place for writers and artists, and the 

park’s lake is probably the most painted lake in the province. 

“I also like Sudbury,” continued Colombo, “which is the 

setting for one of the greatest science fiction novels of all time, 

Roadside Picnic, written by two Russian authors and brothers, 

Boris and Arkady Strugatsky. Twice it has been adapted to film. 

It deals with the transforming effects of ‘alien artefacts’.” 

So drag out your favourite Ontario-based book, or your 

favourite book by a writer who came here to write about our 

‘place’ – John Irving’s A Prayer for Owen Meany comes to mind – 

and reread it. Then set out on an investigative literary sleuthfest 

to discover the places and the influences that insinuated 

themselves into the book. 

It’s a compelling reason to open a good book and it’s a great 

excuse for a trip. Maybe you’ll write a book about it! MO 



Despite promises we’d keep in touch, Jocelyn and I hadn’t 

seen each other since last summer. So when I saw the VIA Rail 

Garden Route brochure at the Canada Blooms Flower and 

Garden Festival, a friends’ getaway by rail seemed the perfect 

opportunity to catch up – and visit some of the province’s most 

beautiful gardens, too. We decided to explore the southwestern 

section of the route, from Windsor and London to Niagara and 

Burlington, and also our hometown of Toronto. 

Our trip began at Toronto’s Union Station at 7:50 a.m. We 

were both looking forward to taking a break over the next few 

days, and the promise of the gardens we were about to see in 

Windsor and London, where Jocelyn once lived, and in Niagara 

and Burlington, homes to some of my favourite botanical 

gardens, was just the ticket for two avid nature-lovers. We soon 

settled into our seats to start the four-hour train trip to 

our first stop, Windsor. 

Windsor’s system of parks, trails and naturalized areas 

showed us a green side of the city that drivers speeding over 

the Ambassador Bridge to the U.S. completely miss. Hugging 

the waters of the Detroit River, Windsor’s Riverwalk is a biking, 

jogging and strolling trail that winds for five kilometres in 

the heart of downtown, through a series of gardens built on 

reclaimed railway lands. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, Jocelyn 

and I joined the throngs of people admiring the gardens and 

attending the park’s summer concerts. 

While I made notes of the many beautiful plants, Jocelyn’s 

camera captured images of the 30-year-old Turkish hazel in 

Dieppe Gardens, the impressive Detroit skyline framed by the 

Gardens by Rail 

by Lorraine Flanigan 

L–R: Odette Sculpture Park. Photo: Courtesy of Convention & Visitors Bureau 

of Windsor, Essex County & Pelee Island; Dieppe Gardens. Photo: Courtesy of 

City of Windsor Parks & Recreation. 

76 



colourful cannas and palms of Festival Plaza, and the collection of 

contemporary and often whimsical art in Odette Sculpture Park. 

As much as we liked exploring Windsor’s Riverwalk, we didn’t 

want to miss our next stop, London, where we were staying for 

the night before exploring more gardens. 

One of Ontario’s 12 ‘5-Bloom’ Communities in Bloom towns 

and cities on the VIA Rail Garden Route, London is often called 

the ‘Forest City’. Its trees certainly stand out – whether they’re 

one of the many London plane trees growing in Victoria Park or 

the brightly coloured sculpted metal trees that surprise walkers 

and gawkers at the city core’s main intersections. Charmed 

by the trees, Jocelyn and I set out on a self-guided Tree Trunk 

Tour of almost a dozen tree stumps carved by chainsawwield 

ing artists. It was a great way to explore the city’s beautiful 

old neighbourhoods. 

Later that afternoon, aboard VIA’s Niagara-bound train, 

Jocelyn and I happily collapsed into our seats. As the landscape 

passed languidly by, interrupted by stops at charming stations 

like Woodstock and Brantford, we chatted about gardening 

television shows, exchanged recipes and talked about our 

favourite books. 

After arriving at the Niagara Falls train station, the taxi driver 

who whisked us to our spa hotel kept up a running commentary 

78 


This page, clockwise from top left: London tree trunk art. Photo courtesy 

of Tourism London; London Tree Trail Map. Photo: Lorraine Flanigan; Floral 

Showhouse in Niagara Falls. Photo: Lorraine Flanigan. Opposite: London metal 

tree sculpture. Photo: William Stewart. 


From this vantage point, we had a 

bird’s-eye view of the TBG’s various small, 

city-sized gardens. 

as he took us on an impromptu tour along the city’s neon-lined 

main street. After settling into our rooms, Jocelyn and I went 

out to dinner and thankfully found a quiet Japanese restaurant, 

where we talked about all the gardens we’d seen over the 

past two days. 

Next morning, we were ready to hop on the People Mover 

bus, which runs along the scenic Niagara Parkway, to visit the 

Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens, a 40-hectare (100-acre) 

garden surrounding the Butterfly Conservatory that is the 

jewel of Niagara’s green spaces. 

Our cameras started clicking as soon as we stepped onto 

the tree-lined entranceway of the Botanical Gardens, where 

containers filled with cannas and flowerbeds planted with blood 

grass packed a tropical colour punch. From here, we ambled 

along the walkway behind the café through a grove of handsome 

old trees, before stepping – Alice-in-Wonderland-like – through 

a narrow opening in a feathery, oriental cedar hedge. Here we 

discovered an enchanting herb garden of olive-laden trees, wispy 

fennel and wine-dark bee balm. 

We completed our visit by gazing through an ancient 

hornbeam allée – a long, tree-lined walkway – that framed a 

vista to the woods beyond. Then we boarded the People Mover 

back to town, hopping on and off to explore the many beautiful 

flowerbeds, the Floral Showhouse and parks that beautify the 

Niagara Parkway. 

Our next whistle stop was Burlington’s Royal Botanical 

Gardens. Enticed by the Earth Art exhibit, we looked forward 

to rediscovering these familiar gardens; Jocelyn remembered 

wandering through the arboretum in autumns past, while I 

recalled the scent of lilacs in the Lilac Dell, one of the largest 

collections of its kind in the world. 

We followed the guide booklet and map to the Earth Art 

installations, feeling as if we’d embarked on a treasure hunt. We 

found what looked like a mammoth Rubik’s cube made from a 

felled tree and stopped to chat about it with passersby, who told 

us not to miss the water-bound sculpture in Grindstone Creek 

Marsh. As we explored the art, we discovered the nature around 

us, too, revelling in the late summer magic of the gardens. 

Helen M. Kippax Wild 

Plant Garden 

Grounded in the 21st century, the Royal 

Botanical Gardens’ (RBG) Helen M. Kippax 

Garden demonstrates the beauty and 

resilience of native plants in an era of 

increased interest in climate change and 

environmental stewardship. 

Designed and planted in 2008, the garden 

features representative plants from six of 

the province’s wild habitats, including an 

Ontario prairie of grasses and wildflowers; a 

drought-tolerant oak savannah; a Carolinian 

woodland; pest- and disease-tolerant plants 

that grow at woodland edges; a pond and 

wetlands; and an Eco-lawn of drought-, 

shade- and salt-tolerant grasses. 

“There are very few public places where 

you can see such an extensive range of 

native plants in a walkable and accessible 

area,” says Belinda Gallagher, head of 

horticulture at the RBG. “It’s a way to 

experience the wondrous world of natives in 

a small area.” 

In the springtime, the garden is awash 

with Virginia bluebells, woodland phlox 

and the lilac-pink blossoms of the native 

redbud tree. 

Top–bottom: Toronto Botanical Garden. Photo: Courtesy of Toronto Botanical Garden; The Rose 

Tea House, Royal Botanical Gardens, Burlington. Photo: Courtesy of Royal Botanical Gardens. 



The Gardens 

Windsor: Pick up a map of parks, trails and leisure 

facilities to navigate Riverwalk and other city gardens, 

as well as Ojibway Nature Centre. Details at 

citywindsor.ca 

We also realized how much these gardens would change 

through the seasons, and Jocelyn promised to return with her 

watercolours next June during the Iris and Peony Celebration, 

while I vowed to visit in springtime to see the wildflowers 

blooming in the Kippax Wild Plant Garden. 

Our rail journey ended as our train pulled into Union Station, 

but our garden tour of one of Toronto’s horticultural gems was 

about to begin – with me as Jocelyn’s guide. 

The four-acre Toronto Botanical Garden (TBG) is composed 

of 12 themed gardens that have given me many ideas for my own 

city garden. Jocelyn had never visited the TBG, so as we walked 

alongside a naturalistic garden brimming with ornamental 

grasses, coneflowers and sedums, she quickly captured its 

colours and textures with her camera. 

At the entrance courtyard, caged hedges of beech and 

cornelian cherry trees, a mini-grove of snakebark maples and a 

waterfall screen marked the entrance to the George and Kathy 

Dembroski Centre for Horticulture. Not wanting her to miss 

a unique feature of this ‘green building’, I led Jocelyn past the 

shop and library to the second floor to see the green roof, 

planted with sedums, native plants and wildflowers. 

From this vantage point, we had a bird’s-eye view of the TBG’s 

various small, city-sized gardens. From the building we walked 

into the Kitchen Garden, which is planted with vegetables and 

herbs from a different culture each year. Here, Jocelyn was 

intrigued to see some of the vegetables she uses in the Indian 

dishes she cooks. 

As we climbed onto the bus that would take us back to our 

separate lives, we didn’t want to believe our gardening getaway 

was coming to an end. In a moment of spontaneity, we looked 

at each other and asked, if we did it once, why couldn’t we do it 

again Then and there, we whipped out our day planners and 

blocked off a long weekend in June for next year’s trip, thinking 

this could be the start of a great gardening tradition! MO 


London: Get around easily with London’s Bike 

and Walk Map, available at information centres. 

The Tree Trunk Tour map is available online at 

londontourism.ca/treetrunktour 

Niagara Falls: Information about the Niagara Parks 

Garden Trail, including the Botanical Gardens, Floral 

Showhouse and Butterfly Conservatory, is available at 

niagaraparks.com/garden 

Burlington: Order event tickets or download a Visitor’s 

Orientation Guide to the Royal Botanical Gardens at 

rbg.ca 

Toronto: For information and directions to the Toronto 

Botanical Garden, visit torontobotanicalgarden.ca 

Rail Travel Essentials 

• Travel between June 12, and September 8, 2009 to 

take advantage of the VIA Rail Garden Route 10% 

discount – it’s also the best time to visit the gardens 

• Temperatures on-board can fluctuate; dress in layers 

and bring a sweater 

• Pack a tote bag with camera, water bottle and 

wet wipes 

• Bring a map – Jocelyn and I wished we had one to 

identify points of interest, such as lakes and rivers, 

along the way 

• Although food, snacks and drinks are available on the 

train, pack your favourite munchies for an on-board 

picnic treat 

FIND OUT MORE 

Canada Blooms 

canadablooms.com 

Communities in Bloom 

communitiesinbloom.ca 

VIA Rail Canada 

viarail.ca/garden 

1-888-VIA-RAIL 

82 



Please Touch! 

Ontario art galleries offer kid-friendly fun 

by Kate Pocock 

So eight-year-old Natalie and I are standing in front of Matisse’s 

The Music Lesson, painted in 1917. This canvas shows a family 

at home – mother and son at the piano, a young boy in the 

garden beside a pond, and perhaps an older son or father sitting 

holding a paperback-size object. My daughter studies this figure. 

“Is he playing Game Boy” she asks innocently. I giggle before 

replying, “I don’t think so, sweetheart.” A Game Boy over 90 

years ago Not likely. 

There is a right way to look at paintings with kids, and 

laughing at their interpretations is definitely not it. According 

to art educators, what I should have said is, “They didn’t have 

Game Boy back then, Natalie. What do you think the kids in 

this picture would have done for fun” My daughter may have 

imagined the one brother diving into the backyard pond and 

the older brother playing with some other electronic game – 

and that’s OK. With such an open-ended question there are no 

wrong answers. 

It can be intimidating to take kids, especially active ones, into 

an art gallery. But never fear. Ontario’s numerous kid-friendly 

art galleries and museums come with passionate educators who 

know how to engage children and lend a helping hand when it 

comes to introducing kids to art. “Galleries have changed from 

10 or 15 years ago,” says Laurie Kilgour-Walsh, an educator who 

oversees family programming at the Art Gallery of Hamilton. 

“Bringing your children to a gallery as often as possible is one of 

the best things you can do.” 

Indeed, at this small gem of a gallery, kids scramble up the 

stairs to gaze in awe at Kim Adams’ VW bus bursting with 

84 


Opposite: Art Gallery of Ontario. This page, L–R: Art Gallery of Hamilton. Photo: 

Vytas Beniusis of Dofasco Inc. Copyright 2005; Kim Adams (Canadian b. 1951) 

Bruegel-Bosch Bus 1996 – ongoing Art Gallery of Hamilton. Photo: Mike Lalich. 


Top–bottom: Interacting with Henry Moore 

sculpture at Art Gallery of Ontario; The 

Great Hall, National Gallery of Canada. 

tiny figures or to pose beside Keith Haring’s green man in 

the outdoor sculpture garden. “I love seeing kids here,” adds 

Kilgour-Walsh. “Kids don’t question, ‘Should I like it’ They just 

think, ‘Wow, this is the greatest thing I’ve ever seen!’” In their 

newly designed (and totally free) Children’s Art Site room – a 

little gallery just for kids – young Picassos draw to their heart’s 

content, work with Plasticine, and examine objects relating to 

exhibits – from Japanese woodcuts for an Asian arts celebration 

to Leonardo’s wonderful flying machine (to be showcased at the 

2009 Vista Italia show). 

Spaces have changed too. Long gone are the hush-hush, dimly 

lit buildings from my childhood, where we kids were dragged 

to stand in front of endless visions of trees. Today’s renovated 

art buildings glow with light and colour and space. Racing past 

the famous spider sculpture and through the glass doors of 

the National Gallery of Canada in Ottawa, we travel up a long 

ramp into a brilliant cathedral of light. Here in the Great Hall, 

just steps from masterpieces like Tom Thomson’s The Jack Pine, 

we find kids of all ages making a giant floor puzzle and turning 

feathers, cotton puffs and patterned paper into art. Luke, a 

three-year-old, is creating a dazzling coloured sun on paper 

with bingo dabbers – “Look,” he says proudly. After art-making, 

it’s time to grab the gallery’s free family guide, Artissimo: 

Animals at the Gallery, to hunt for Chagall’s Russian goat from 

his childhood or the 3-D Indian god Ganesha, carved in stone. 

86 



…on the wall, a child-like motto from 

Emily Carr: “First I Think. Then I Draw 

Around My Think.” 

“Luke has already shown us around the contemporary gallery,” 

his guardian jokes. “He’s a regular.” 

The goal seems to be to make kids as comfortable with art as 

they are with their favourite TV shows. “It’s all about children 

looking at art and being able to weave stories,” says National 

Gallery education specialist Megan Richardson, whose own two 

boys have roamed the gallery since they were babes. Both she 

and Kilgour-Walsh suggest asking questions such as: “What’s 

going on in this picture What do you see here that makes you 

say that What more can we find” And both suggest you don’t 

have to whiz through all 97 works in one afternoon. “Stop and 

spend time with just one painting,” advises Richardson. “Who 

knows what ideas your kids will come up with” 

Certainly, as we enter the Art Gallery of Ontario’s renovated 

Off the Wall! Dr. Mariano Elia Hands On Centre, the room 

looks more like an artistic junior think-tank with crazy costumes, 

pots of sculpture materials, and bright Smurf-like blue and 

green tables and chairs. Sure enough, on the wall, a child-like 

motto from Emily Carr: “First I Think. Then I Draw Around My 

Think.” My kids loved grabbing one of the bright blue Discovery 

Boxes. Running to the appropriate gallery, they could re-create 

an African mask (with felt pieces) or smell the pine forests 

painted by the Group of Seven. Educators know that today’s artloving 

kids are tomorrow’s artists – as well as explorers, scientists 

and adventurers. And it often starts with having hands-on fun. 

Which includes clay. At Toronto’s Gardiner Museum, it’s only 

5:30 p.m. on Friday night. Yet there’s already a lineup for the 

Open Clay Studio ($5 kids; $10 adults). In the busy basement 

room lined with tables, we watch junior sculptors five and up 

fashion wet clay into animals, tiny dishes or ‘Potter’ figures. 

“It’s so popular,” says Diane Wolfe, director of education and 

programs. “There are always lineups, both on Friday nights and 

Sunday afternoons.” Afterward, travel upstairs to see the 

funny face Mayan pouring jug or colourful Italian figurines that 

amused 18th-century dinner guests. After hands-on experience, 

the looking means much more. 

Even for babies. Canada’s first children’s museum, the 

London Regional Children’s Museum in London, Ontario, 

welcomes all ages from five months old. Tiny tots travel from the 

dinosaur age to outer space as they dig for dino bones, lie down 

to watch the stars in the planetarium or rotate a replica of the 

Canadarm. 

Farther north and east, under the pine trees in Kleinburg, 

we find one of Canada’s most important art galleries. But even 

here, at this woodsy temple to the Group of Seven and First 

Nations art – the McMichael Canadian Art Collection – we find 

40 hectares (100 acres) of forested play space and imaginative 

activities. Performances of Anishinabe drummers inspire kids 

to make their own drums; a First Nations art show prompts 

petroglyphs. “It’s a thrill to see a child explain something to 

their parents,” says programmer Shira Anklewicz, who plans 

family days and kids’ camps. “I recently heard a young boy tell an 

adult, ‘This is a thunderbird. He’s a supernatural creature from 

the spirit world.’ ” 

A bonus (according to educators) is that kids who know 

how to describe what they see, and support their theories, can 

transfer that skill to other subjects. All we need, apparently, is 

time to listen and opportunities to transfer those ideas to artistic 

expression – whether it’s green suns, birds that swim underwater 

or 19th-century Game Boy players! 

“Come looking for a little adventure,” suggests Kilgour-Walsh. 

“And let your children teach you something,” she adds. “They 

will see things in a completely different way.” MO 

– Kate Pocock is an award-winning freelance writer and photographer who 

loves to write about family and travel. 

ontariotravel.net/family 

Clockwise from top left: McMichael Canadian Art Collection, Kleinburg; Tom Thomson (1877–1917), 

Woodland Waterfall, 1916–1917, oil on canvas, McMichael Canadian Art Collection. Purchase 1977 

with Funds Donated by The W. Garfield Weston Foundation 1977.48; children enjoying McMichael’s 

Summer Art Camp. 

See next page for more information on these kid-friendly galleries. 



Rideau Hall Tours for Free 

You might not think that the Governor General’s official 

residence in Ottawa is a magnet for kids and art. But the 

child-friendly, guided tours have youngsters playing with 

3-D architectural models, examining an Order of Canada 

medal (shaped like a snowflake because each snowflake 

is unique) and looking at paintings such as Kurelek’s 

wall-size young girl, barefoot in the snow. 

Rideau Hall 

gg.ca 1-866-842-4422 

Fun and Games 

“My nine-year-old loves to play games in the gallery,” 

says Megan Richardson of the National Gallery of Canada 

in Ottawa. And why not Try the memory game. Look at 

a painting for 60 seconds. Then turn away and remember 

details. Get kids to act out a painting. Or, play the senses 

game. What can you smell, taste, hear Scavenger hunt: 

choose five postcards at the shop, then set out to hunt 

for the art. 

National Gallery of Canada 

national.gallery.ca 1-888-541-8888 

Northern Exposures 

If you’re travelling in northern Ontario with kids, stop 

at family-friendly art galleries in Thunder Bay and Sault 

Ste. Marie. At the Thunder Bay Art Gallery, delight in 

contemporary First Nations art like the giant raven’s 

mask. Junior artists can have fun with scavenger hunts, 

animation, painting or photography during weeklong 

summer classes or seasonal Family Days. The Art 

Gallery of Algoma focuses on Canadian contemporary 

art. Year-round workshops offer ARTCLUB sessions for 

preschoolers, weekend Jewellery Making for Teens and 

summertime ARTCAMP weeks. 

Thunder Bay Art Gallery 

theag.ca (807) 577-6427 

The Art Gallery of Algoma 

artgalleryofalgoma.ca (705) 949-9067 

BEFORE You Go 

Art Gallery of Hamilton 

artgalleryofhamilton.com 

(905) 527-6610 

Gardiner Museum 

gardinermuseum.on.ca 

(416) 586-8080 

Art Gallery of Ontario 

ago.net 

1-877-225-4246 

McMichael Canadian 

Art Collection 

mcmichael.com 

1-888-213-1121 

Art Gallery of Ontario 


Ontario Outings 

+ Quirky Quiz 

= 

Family Fun 

by Kate Pocock and Betty Zyvatkauskas 

Your ultimate family adventure would be: 

1 Spelunking or cave exploring 

2 Hiking through the forest and spotting wildlife 

3 A hot-air balloon ride over the trees 

4 Building sandcastles on a sunny beach 

For a family movie night, you would rent: 

1 Finding Nemo 

2 Bend it like Beckham 

3 Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone 

4 Babe 

Fort William Historical Park, Thunder Bay 

Visiting the Peace Tower on Parliament Hill in Ottawa 

Does your family keep an eye out for big 

adventures, or keep it cool with laid-back 

excursions No matter what kind of family 

you are, big or small, young or old – there’s 

an Ontario outing for you. And to choose 

the perfect adventure, we’ve concocted a 

fun quiz that will help you find your family’s 

memorable destination. Circle your answers 

and find out what type of family you are! 

Your favourite family feast might include: 

1 Spicy food in an ethnic restaurant 

2 Make-your-own fajitas at home 

3 All-you-can-eat sushi 

4 Grandma’s homemade beef stew 

For a special overnight stay, you would choose: 

1 A sleeping bag under the stars 

2 A yurt with bunkbeds 

3 A four-poster bed in a haunted castle 

4 A room with a view in a cottage by a lake 

If you had a free afternoon, you would choose to: 

1 Do something you’ve never done before 

2 Go on a bike ride and stop for a picnic lunch 

3 Ride upside-down rollercoasters at a theme park 

4 Watch a movie while munching fresh popcorn 

Check your family’s score! 

If you circled mostly 1s, you’re down for anything, 

especially if you’ve never tried it before! You are an 

Adventurous Family – go to page 94 

If you circled mostly 2s, get outside and get moving! 

You are an Active Family – go to page 95 

If you circled mostly 3s, you’re a bunch of thrillseekers! 

You are a Fearless Family – go to page 96 

Rock climbing at 

Blue Mountain 

Hiking on the 

Niagara Escarpment 

If you circled mostly 4s, you prefer to take it easy and 

relax. You are a Laid-back Family – go to page 97 



Adventurous 

You’re an Adventurous Family, so try something new and 

embark on an exciting Eco-Adventure at Scenic Caves Nature 

Adventure Tours near Collingwood. 

Channel your inner Tarzan or Jane, grab your junior treehuggers 

and set out on a family romp amidst the treetops. 

First, take a walk across the suspension bridge and enjoy 

spectacular views that soar over 300-metres above the distant 

Georgian Bay. Wind gusts may sway this 126-metre-long 

engineering marvel a bit, but don’t worry. It’s supported 

with tall steel towers and concrete foundations weighing the 

equivalent of 15 elephants. Bring binoculars to point out 

farmhouses, a lighthouse and other panoramic details in this 

spectacular view, which stretches to Georgian Bay. 

Then, in the adjacent forest, suit up in a harness, helmet 

and gloves to walk across more than a dozen bridges suspended 

as close to the treetops as possible. Your tree-travelling 

adventure – along high wooden walkways fastened between 

16 tall trees – ends with a ladder descent or an exhilarating 

300-metre zip line back to earth. “You might as well zip,” 

comments Chris Westbrooke, Scenic Caves Nature Adventure 

Manager, who watches the delight of school kids as they 

whisk through the ancient forest. “We’ve had 90-year-olds 

who’ve done it.” 

Finally, explore the labyrinth of caves and crevices that date 

back to a time when the Petun First Nations called this place 

Ekarenniondi, or ‘Rock that Stands Out’. It’s an eco-adventure 

that mixes wind and rock, evergreen and sky, with geological 

and historical facts along the way. For reservations and 

conditions (kids must be at least 4 ft. 8 in. and over 85 lbs. 

for the treetop adventure), visit sceniccaves.com 

(705) 446-0256. 

You’re an Active Family, and Pinery Provincial Park on Lake 

Huron has lots to keep you moving, with hiking and biking, 

sailing and swimming through a rare ecological region. 

The eastern shore of Lake Huron, hugging Ontario with its 

white sand beaches and almost turquoise waters, has been called 

Ontario’s Riviera. An eight-year-old’s response to seeing the 

10-kilometre-long shore of Pinery Provincial Park is far more apt. 

“Cool!” he’ll say (as ours did), “the ocean!” He’s in good 

company – even Samuel de Champlain, upon discovering this 

Great Lake in 1616, wrote that the land was “shaped like Brittany 

and similarly situated, being almost surrounded by ‘la Mer Douce’ 

(freshwater sea).” 

Besides the beautiful views with its waves, sand dunes and rare 

interior oak savannah, this park offers a week’s worth of activities 

guaranteed to make for some heavy sleepers. Cycle along some 

10 kilometres of bike paths or hike any of 10 trails, from the easy 

1.8 km Carolinian Trail to the 3 km Wilderness Trail through 

mixed pine-oak forest to the shoreline. Paddle a canoe or kayak 

through the calm Old Ausable Channel, or try fishing for 

northern pike or rock bass. To explore further, head out with a 

park naturalist to discover any of the hundreds of bird species, 

60 butterfly species and dozens of species of reptiles, amphibians 

and mammals – from the rare five-lined skink (a type of lizard) to 

shy white-tailed deer. 

Equipment rentals plus a well-stocked store, family-friendly yurt 

accommodations (like a cabin with canvas walls) and children’s 

activities such as the Junior Naturalists Program (ages 6 to 12), or 

Future Naturalists Program (ages 13 to 17), make this park a family 

standout. For details, visit pinerypark.on.ca 1-888-Ont-Park. 

Active 

L–R: Underground bound at the Scenic Caves; Flying high on a zip line through 

L–R: Camping in a yurt at Pinery Provincial Park. Photo: Kim Bast; 


the forest. 

Catching some air wakeboarding. 


Fearless 

You’re a Fearless Family, always searching for a thrill. Plan a 

weekend in Ottawa to walk among ghosts, sleep in a former 

jail, whiz up to the top of the Peace Tower for a spectacular 

view or descend deep into the earth in the Diefenbunker. 

“Ottawa has a rich history of ghosts,” says Glen Shackleton, who 

has been spooking folks since starting The Haunted Walk of 

Ottawa 14 years ago. Today, dozens of families (kids six and up) 

join his nightly Original Haunted Walk to hear stories about the 

ghostly happenings at the Bytown Museum or at the Fairmont 

Château Laurier hotel – where the spirit of Titanic passenger 

Charles Melville Hayes, general manager of the Grand Trunk 

Pacific Railway, is said to appear. 

Especially fearless families might want to take the Ghost and 

the Gallows tour around Ottawa’s Old Carleton County Jail – 

now the HI-Ottawa Jail Hostel. Walk along the creepy Death 

Row, visit the small museum (with a prisoner’s letter written 

on toilet paper), see where three hangings took place, and hear 

the ghostly tales of pipes creaking, chains moving and other 

spooky happenings. Then bed down in a family cell – er – suite. 

“We’ve even had newborns [sleep] here,” says hostel manager 

Greg Brockmann proudly, as he shows a sunny room outfitted 

with beds and bunks, a sink and an iPod holder (jail tours are 

recommended for ages 10 and up). 

After ‘Hard Labour Pancakes’ in the Alibi Café, break out of 

jail to face your fear of heights with a trip to the top of the Peace 

Tower on Parliament Hill. Or travel deep below the earth in 

nearby Carp at the Diefenbunker, Canada’s Cold War Museum. 

Tour through a maze of deep underground passages in this 

once-secret hiding place for government ministers, built in the 

event of possible nuclear attack. For more information, visit 

ottawatourism.ca 1-800-363-4465, hauntedwalk.com 

(613) 232-0344 or hihostels.com 1-866-299-1478. 

You’re a Laid-back Family, so kick back and spend a day 

watching history unfold at Fort William Historical Park. 

Looking for an easygoing escape that takes you back to a simpler 

era, a time before Facebook, reality TV and hybrid cars Then 

head to Thunder Bay, where Fort William Historical Park 

promises fur trade adventure without the agony of portaging 

two 40 kg (90-pound) fur packs apiece. 

Two hundred years ago, fur traders headed west in search 

of beaver pelts. On the banks of the Kaministiquia River, the 

Montreal-based North West Company built a major fur trade 

base. It’s been carefully recreated right down to the Ojibway 

wigwam encampment, where you can learn how First Nations 

people traded their canoe-building skills for credits at the 

company store. During the summer, horse-drawn wagon rides 

make getting around the world’s largest fur trade post easy. 

Voyageurs were expected to paddle – and portage – from 

dawn to dusk, but today’s visitors enjoy a leisurely paddle and 

singalong in a 14-person voyageur canoe. You can choose to join 

in the fort’s activities by milking a cow, baking bannock on the 

open fire, or just sitting back and watching a cast of costumed 

characters enact the dramas of the day: building birchbark 

canoes, firing the cannon to announce the arrival of a canoe 

party from the wilderness, or arresting someone for trading with 

the rival Hudson’s Bay Company. 

Families can even stay overnight, either sleeping in a voyageur 

tent by the river, or in more modern facilities with indoor 

plumbing. Modern and traditional lunches like pea soup and 

beef stew are both served on-site. For more details, visit fwhp.ca 

(807) 473-2344. MO 

– Betty Zyvakauskas is a Toronto-based writer who enjoys travel, nature and 

culinary history. Kate Pocock is an award-winning freelance writer and 

photographer who loves to write about family and travel. 


Laid-back 

L–R: Creeping along a row of haunted jail cells at the HI-Ottawa Jail Hostel. 

Photo: Haunted Walks Inc.; Ghost hunters about to take a terrifying tour. 

Photo: Haunted Walks Inc. 

L–R: Junior apprentices try their hands at woodworking at Fort William Historical 

Park, Thunder Bay; Shouldering the load is all part of a day’s work for a voyageur. 



Overnight on Nipissing Ice 

Callander 

by James Smedley 

“Can we stay another night” Lillian asks as we sit down to 

our feast of barbecued steak and salad under the warm glow of 

propane lights. “We haven’t even spent our first night,” I tell my 

young daughter, “you might not even like it.” She looks around 

knowingly at the 10 x 20-foot ice bungalow complete with bunk 

beds, table, chairs, propane furnace and kitchenette. “Oh I like it 

here,” she says with all the conviction a 10-year-old can muster. 

Earlier today we met outfitter Rob Hyatt for snowmobile 

delivery to a cluster of rectangular metal-clad ice fishing 

shacks, set amongst the pine-capped islands of Lake Nipissing’s 

Callander Bay. The cottage-like accommodations include 

amenities like a barbecue and an on-ice outhouse. I’ll admit the 

prospect of staying overnight on ice is becoming much more 

enticing than I first imagined. But it’s Lillian who discovers the 

supreme luxury of all – even before we’re fully unpacked she 

crawls into her sleeping bag and lowers a hook and minnow 

through a hole in the floor. Catching perch and walleye from 

the top bunk is a novelty that never really wears off. The thrill 

is intensified come evening when Lillian’s cry, “It’s got legs!” 

signals the landing of the first of several Nipissing mud puppies, 

more large salamander than fish. 

98 


Opposite: Evening falls over the luxurious on-ice accommodations of Lake 

Nipissing. This page: Lillian angles fish from one of the six holes in the ice 

bungalow’s floor. 


By the time darkness falls again 

we’re warming up to big plates 

of fillets rolled in cornmeal. 

For both parent and child, the ice bungalow is like a big fort 

where we pull strange and tasty creatures up through the floor. 

The luxury of fishing from one of six interior holes is enhanced 

by the option of angling outside in the milder March weather, 

where we tap into Nipissing’s rich stocks of walleye, perch 

and herring. Not only is Lillian’s angling interest piqued, even 

mundane chores seem to hold much more interest here than 

they do at home. Lillian sets and clears the table. When I wash 

dishes she picks up the tea towel and dries. Even her clothes 

are organized and folded neatly on the bottom bunk. Shortly 

after, she climbs into bed without being told and falls fast asleep 

before I can even say “good night.” 

The next morning Lillian continues the low-pressure tactics 

she’s been applying from the beginning. “Be nice to stay another 

night,” she suggests. With my young daughter asking to fish 

longer, my resolve to leave collapses like a house of cards. “Well, 

only if you can catch us enough fish for supper,” I respond, and 

Lillian spends the next few hours wielding a jigging rod and 

catching perch and small walleye earmarked for the frying pan. 

By the time darkness falls again we’re warming up to big plates 

of fillets rolled in cornmeal. The wind and driving sleet beating 

against the bungalow only increases our feeling of coziness. 

After Lillian beats me at a few games of checkers, we slide into 

our sleeping bags. From out of the darkness I hear, “Thanks for 

bringing me here Dad.” I think of what a rare and cherished 

time it’s been spending several days of one-on-one time with my 

youngest daughter. “It was my pleasure dear.” MO 

Rob Hyatt Outdoors 

robhyattoutdoors.com (705) 752-1727 

city.north-bay.on.ca 1-800-465-1882 


Opposite: Walloping walleye prowl the depths of Nipissing. This page, 

clockwise from top right: Local deer keeping an eye on things; Fishing 

outdoors for a cool change of pace; Father and daughter enjoy dining with 

all of the comforts of home. All photos by James Smedley. 



And the Beat 

Goes On… 

by Kate Pocock 

With a new map in hand, everyone can join 

the Pow Wow Trail 

While road tripping with family up the Bruce Peninsula, we 

heard a friendly invitation on our car radio: “Come discover 

the traditions of the Nawash.” That afternoon, the Chippewas 

of Nawash First Nation at Cape Croker Indian Park would 

be singing, dancing, drumming, eating and celebrating life. 

And we were invited! 

“Why go to a Pow Wow” asked uncle skeptically. That 

comment was enough to spur us to take a detour. Heading 

toward Cape Croker Indian Park, situated on a spectacular 

stretch of Georgian Bay, we told uncle and auntie that we had 

been attending Pow Wows since our kids were toddlers. From 

Manitoulin to Niagara, we had witnessed the colourful regalia – 

feathers and beads, fringed shawls and jingling bells, and 

amazing art and jewellery. We had tried scrumptious foods: corn 

soup, buffalo burgers and bannock. Definitely, it was time to 

educate uncle and share the fun. 

After parking the car, we paid a small admission and had our 

hand stamped – with a dinosaur Surely it should be a teepee or 

totem “Well, this was the first animal we hunted,” our Native 

greeter joked. Naturally, dinos were extinct before his people 

started hunting. But his good-natured jest reminded me that, 

yes, our First Nations had arrived long before us. 

Luckily, we arrived at the Pow Wow before the Grand Entry. 

Flags and the Eagle Staff were solemnly carried onto the sacred 


Opposite: Rama First Nation Thanksgiving Pow Wow celebration. 

This page: Traditional drums and drumsticks are the heartbeat of a Pow Wow. 


“We came out with this Pow Wow 

guide as an invitation to ‘come on in’.” 

Pow Wow grounds, followed by honoured guests and war 

veterans, then singers, drummers and dancers. Once the Eagle 

Staff was hoisted into a place of honour, and prayers said, the 

Master of Ceremonies announced that the first dances would 

begin. “Listen to the drum,” a mother instructed her youngster, 

while showing him how to place each foot in time to the beat – 

a beat that imitated his mother’s heartbeat and honoured 

Mother Earth. 

Uncle was dazzled by the dresses, like the Hoop Dress or Jingle 

Dress, handmade in painstaking sessions, from leather, feathers, 

beads, dyed porcupine quills and other materials – as well as the 

men’s beaded moccasins and feathered headdresses. Auntie 

was surprised that we too could enter an inter-tribal spot dance. 

We almost won the top prize! 

This year, a new map from the Aboriginal Tourism Association 

of Southern Ontario, makes it even easier for uncle, or anyone, 

to attend a Pow Wow. “A lot of people felt intimidated or didn’t 

know that they could go to Pow Wows,” says President Linda 

Sarazin, an Algonquin. “We came out with this Pow Wow guide 

as an invitation to ‘come on in’.” 

Sarazin’s own Pow Wow feast at Golden Lake First Nation, 

near Ottawa, offers up marinated moose meat on a spit, wild 

rice casserole, sand-baked beans cooked in cast iron pots and 

bannock with berry sauce. “On the Saturday, we’ll have five 

thousand people,” she says. “You can feel the energy of the 

Pow Wow.” 

Indeed, almost every weekend from spring to fall, visitors can 

feel this energy – from Honouring Mother Earth Pow Wow in 

Niagara-on-the-Lake in May to the rousing Thanksgiving Pow 

Wow of the Chippewas of Rama Mnjikaning First Nation. “Pow 

Wows represent a bridge into our world,” says Claude Latour, an 

Algonquin artist who hits the Pow Wow trail every year with his 

family. “It’s a good time for everyone and a natural high.” MO 

– Kate Pocock is an award-winning freelance writer and photographer who 

loves to write about family and travel. 

ataso.org 

(613) 722-0315 


This page: Rama First Nation Thanksgiving Pow Wow celebration. Opposite, 

clockwise from top left: Six Nations; Rama First Nation Thanksgiving Pow Wow 

celebration; Wikwemikong, Manitoulin Island. 



BUMP 

in the night 

by Ilona Kauremszky 

Brooms by rickety thresholds, witches at nearly every turn, glowing red 

eyes strangely spotted at a doctor’s house – it had all the ingredients of a 

fright-night tale. 

Except it was broad daylight and the setting was the 19thcentury 

Black Creek Pioneer Village in Toronto. Here I was 

trundling along leafy paths with two costumed pirates, aged five 

and seven, in search of scary things that go ‘boo!’ 

At the Town Hall a rambunctious brood of princesses, tigers, 

and grim reapers sat cross-legged, mesmerized by the Creepy 

Creature Show. Tarantulas, a red corn snake, and an alligatorsnapping 

turtle entertained this Halloween crowd. 

Next door the Town Hall Drive Shed morphed into a 

Haunted Maze where black-masked Broom-Hildas wickedly 

taunted us to enter the ghoulish premises. Our fright-night crew 

entered, squeezing through the narrow dark catacombs as we 

wildly warded off dangling soft surfaces. Everyone bumped in 

the darkness, while letting out yelps and screams of bloodcurdling 

laughter. 

Between the fortune telling, pumpkin decorating, a Victorian 

mourning scene at the Mackenzie House, and taking in ghoulish 

tales at the Mennonite Meeting House, I thought we had the 

whole scary visit experience covered, until the sign ‘Ghost 

Photos’ appeared outside the Broom Maker’s Shop. Half 

expecting to see The Wizard of Oz’s Wicked Witch of the West 

flying by on a broomstick, Hunter, my eldest nephew, used all 

his pirate strength and bravely sat for a photo and whatever 

might come next. With two lickety-split camera flashes, it was 

all over. He got the ghost photo of a mysteriously caped woman 

lurking behind him to prove it. 

Opposite: Fort Fright’s Mortician. Photo: Rob Taylor, Taylor Studios, Kingston. 

This page: Costumed interpreter Jeff Farrell (centre) of Black Creek Pioneer 

Village guides some young pirates. Photo: Stephen Smith. 



Still unwavering at the sight of ghouls and goblins, we decided 

the kids ought to try the thrills at the other end of town. Boo 

At The Zoo, part of the Toronto Zoo, transforms into themed 

Halloween celebrations, perfect for medieval minstrels and 

fairy princesses. 

A jester greeted us and coaxed us into the Manor of 

Enchantment where grape-attired royalty held court. We entered 

into a Harry Potter-like film set laden with red curtains, a grand 

piano and candelabras – along with spiderwebs and castle 

torches. For these pirate boys it was straight to the kiddie games 

for a round of minigolf and tic-tac-toe. 

Later a lap around the Scary Kids Zoo revealed an eye-opening 

exhibit, in which a spectacled clown doctor spellbound the 

costumed kids with his storytelling. With his jar of frogs’ 

eggs and (for the squeamish) a framed portrait of a local 

snake skeleton, he chimed, “Betcha didn’t know snakes live 

around here!” 

We shifted gears from this fairytale land and delved deeper 

into the zoo for an audience with the chattering monkeys 

followed by a visit with the recent baby cheetah residents, 

Bomani and Mahala. “I’m still not scared,” whimpered Hunter. 

Hmmm, I scratched my head. “Not scared, huh” I repeated 

as we approached the enclosed pen of a mighty giant gorilla. 

In full alpha-male style, the black beast pounded his chest and 

ran toward the boys, who were full of squeals at the sheer sight 

of this oncoming King Kong. Finally the kids were spooked. 

That night we reminisced, over hot bowls of chili, how the 

gorilla won the prize for scaring fearless pirates. What will next 

year bring MO 

– Ilona Kauremszky is a weekly travel columnist and editor of mycompass.ca 

blackcreek.ca (416) 661-6600 

torontozoo.ca (416) 392-5929 


In full alpha-male style, the black 

beast pounded his chest and ran 

toward the boys, who were full of 

squeals at the sheer sight of this 

oncoming King Kong. 

This page: Fort Fright’s Winged Devil. Photo: Rob Taylor, Taylor Studios, Kingston. Opposite page, clockwise from 

top right: Ace pirate Hunter shows off his scary pumpkin at the Howling Hootenanny. Photo: Stephen Smith. 

Photo: Toronto Zoo; Pirates and purple royalty boogie down at Toronto Zoo’s Boo at the Zoo. Photo: Stephen Smith. 

Fright Night AT Fort Henry 

In a phantasmagoric second, Fort Henry transforms 

into Fort Fright. A seething blanket of thick smoke 

drifts knee-high, while walking dead-like zombies 

riddled in splattered soldiers’ uniforms stare out into 

the black sky. 

The fortress lays down its arms for six weeks as 

Ontario’s UNESCO World Heritage Site doubledares 

anyone to enter inside the limestone walls 

during Halloween. 

forthenry.com 

(613) 542-7388 



INNS • WINE & CULINARY • GOLF • THEATRE • SPAS 

Great Escapes 

Wherever your journey takes you, you’ll find yourself 

in a good place 

Savour 

time together at one of over forty distinctive inns 

and twenty spas. Add golf, spa, regional cuisine and 

theatre to your time away to spice up your getaway. 

Member inns and spas are all quality assured, have 

elegant accommodation and are set in both urban 

and rural locales throughout Ontario. 

Check out our website for getaway packages. 

MAKE TRIP PLANNING A PLEASURE. 

Contact us for your 

complimentary guidebook and map. 

1-800-340-4667 • WWW.ONTARIOSFINEST.CA 



great 

escapes 

London Without a Passport by Barbara Ramsay Orr 

London is a great 

food town 

The dining room at the Idlewyld Inn 

has been beautifully restored, and 

the cuisine is excellent, employing 

local ingredients. The city celebrates 

the bounty of its local food producers 

that range from the great fresh food 

stands in the renowned Covent 

Garden Market to the complex 

Portuguese flavours of Aroma 

Mediterranean Restaurant on 

Richmond Street. 

N 

London 

I wasn’t expecting to get teary-eyed 

when I visited Banting House in London, 

but touring the outwardly unassuming 

home was a revelation, and a poignant 

one at that. 

It was precisely here, on the night of 

October 31, 1920 that Frederick Banting 

awoke from a troubled sleep with an insight 

that led to the discovery of the treatment 

for diabetes. He was inspired enough to 

get up and scribble the idea down in his 

notebook before dropping off to sleep. 

“People who visit Banting House 

often get emotional when they enter this 

small room,” Grant Maltman, curator 

of the museum, explained. “Many of 

them lead normal lives because of what 

happened right here.” That’s when my 

eyes filled. The impact of one man’s 

discovery, on countless lives around the 

world, is profoundly moving. Before 

insulin, diabetes was a death sentence, 

with starvation being the only method of 

prolonging life. 

This fascinating museum is well worth a 

visit. Like the city of London itself, there 

is far more here than one might expect. 

For example, who would have 

thought that a mysterious disappearing 

millionaire, Hollywood stars, and a 

murderous family feud would be part of 

its history 

The wealthy theatrical impresario, 

Ambrose Small, who vanished without a 

trace in 1919, is said to haunt The Grand 

Theatre, which he once owned. Today the 

theatre is the nation’s longest continually 

operating playhouse. 

The ivy-covered courthouse on Ridout 

Street was the venue for the trial of the 

vigilantes who murdered several 

members of the ‘Black Donnellys’, in 

one of Canada’s most notorious feuds. 

And there’s so much more. 

The Royal Canadian Regiment 

Museum, The Canadian Medical Hall 

of Fame, historic Eldon House and 

Fanshawe Pioneer Village all present a 

fascinating window on our past. For an 

historic sleepover, you can book a night 

at the Idlewyld Inn, a restored mansion 

dating back to 1878. 

Spend some time in historic London 

and experience its authentic history. 

While not as old as its British namesake, 

you’ll find London to be full of drama 

and surprises. MO 

londontourism.ca 1-800-265-2602 


112 


Opposite page, L–R: A night at The Grand Theatre, London. French 

toast with fresh berries at the Idlewyld Inn. This page: Banting 

House. Photo: Banting House National Historic Site of Canada. 


great 

escapes 

N 

Bruce 

Peninsula 

THEY WILL HELP YOU 

TAKE A HIKE 

Members of the Home-to-Home Bed 

& Breakfast Network provide meals, 

accommodation and transportation 

to help you coordinate one-way, 

inn-to-inn hiking trips anywhere on 

the Bruce Trail between Wiarton and 

Tobermory. Highlights include the 

cliffs of White Bluffs Provincial Park, 

many varieties of wild orchids, cobble 

beaches near Cape Chin and Bruce 

Peninsula National Park. 

The Inn Way to Hike the Bruce by Tim Shuff 

The hiking between Wiarton and 

Tobermory is rugged and wild, and can 

rightfully be called the most difficult 

section of the 900-kilometre (558-mile) 

Bruce Trail to hike. But thanks to a 

brilliant bed-and-breakfast network that 

lets you hike inn-to-inn, it’s one of the 

easiest to organize. 

My wife and I spent a weekend 

exploring some of Ontario’s most 

beautiful and isolated trails without once 

sleeping on the ground or preparing our 

own food. We also discovered this secret 

of inn-to-inn hiking: it’s as much about 

the inns as it is the hiking. 

Friday night we stayed with Bill and 

Nancy Strang at The Bluffs B&B in Lion’s 

Head. We soon understood an earlier 

visitor’s remark in the guestbook, that 

“Nancy is the Bruce Peninsula’s Barefoot 

Contessa.” She stoked our bellies with 


homemade cranberry muffins and 

pancakes, and sent us off with sandwiches 

on fresh-baked bread. 

We hiked over beaches and cliffs to the 

Cape Chin North Connection Country 

Inn, where the Strangs delivered our car 

and luggage for night two. We didn’t yet 

know that our stay there would coincide 

with a special fundraising event, Comedy 

in the Barn. 

The Connection, run by Ann and 

Don Bard on 40 hectares (100 acres) 

north of Cape Chin, is part B&B, part 

working farm, part mirage-come-true for 

calorie-deprived backpackers who straggle 

in straight off the trail for beer and 

ice cream. 

It’s also a neighbourhood pub and 

tourist hub for the back road community 

of Cape Chin North, with frequent music 

nights, theme dinners and special events. 

Tonight, instead of the farmhouse’s 

century-old dining room, the Bards 

served dinner in their barn amidst the hay 

bales, with live music and two stand-up 

comedians parachuted in from Toronto. 

We laughed, partly at the comedy, but 

mostly at the irony. After all we’d seen, 

hours of carefree walking, sweeping views 

of Georgian Bay, a bracing swim and a 

day of sunbathing on a secluded beach, 

breakfast and dinner were what we’d 

remember most. MO 

– Tim Shuff is a freelance writer from Toronto who 

is attempting to run the entire Bruce Trail in 

stages from south to north. He is also the editor 

of two kayaking magazines: Kayak Angler and 

Adventure Kayak. 

brucetrail.org 1-800-665-HIKE 

explorethebruce.com 1-800-268-3838 

hometohomenetwork.ca 1-888-301-3224 


Opposite page: The Niagara Escarpment offers 

sweeping vistas of Georgian Bay. Photo: Tim Shuff. 

This page, left: B&Bs on the Bruce are a welcome 

sign for hikers. Photo: Tim Shuff.

great 

escapes 

N 

Red Lake 

In the Footsteps of a Canadian Icon 

by Elle Andra-Warner 

Morrisseau was the 

first person to paint the 

Anishnabe legends, 

myths and spiritual stories 

that had been handed 

down through generations 

of storytelling. 

This page, top to bottom: Norval Morrisseau, 

Thunderbird ca. 1960 Acrylic on kraft paper. 

Photo: Red Lake Regional Heritage Centre. Red 

Lake waterfront. Photo: Red Lake Touring Region. 

Opposite: A recreation of Morrisseau’s art studio at 

the Red Lake Regional Heritage Centre. 

Red Lake, a small town of 5,000, 

continues to be in the global spotlight 

as the Canadian hub for Aboriginal art. 

Located at the end of Highway 105, 

Red Lake is Ontario’s most northwesterly 

municipality. 

But each year an increasing number of 

visitors makes the long trek to experience 

the environment where one of Canada’s 

most influential artists – the late Norval 

Morrisseau (1932–2007) – began his 

iconic career and inspired a new art 

movement: the Woodland School. They 

follow Morrisseau’s footsteps into a raw 

wilderness where bush planes still rule 

(Red Lake is the ‘Norseman bush plane 

capital of the world’), world-class paddling 

is at the doorstep, bald eagles soar and 

northern lights dance. 

Morrisseau was the first person to 

paint the Anishnabe (Ojibway) legends, 

myths and spiritual stories that had 

been handed down through generations 

of storytelling. Inspired by visions and 

dreams, he believed his powerful images 

would preserve and bring respect to the 

Anishnabe culture. 

“These early paintings he created in 

northwestern Ontario marked the birth 

of the Woodland School of Art in North 

America. Many of his early works are still 

in Red Lake and some of his paintings can 

be seen in homes in the area,” explained 

Michele Alderton, the director/curator 

of the Red Lake Heritage Centre, the 

home gallery of Morrisseau’s original 

Thunderbird painting. 

In the summer of 2008, Red Lake held 

its first Woodland Arts Festival: A Tribute 

to Norval Morrisseau and the Woodland 

Artists. No dates have been set yet for 

the next one, but visitors are invited to 

come anytime to learn more about the 

largely untold story of Morrisseau’s Red 

Lake years. 

Red Lake is amazingly rich in history, 

culture and outdoor adventure. But to 

appreciate this northern treasure you 

really have to experience it first-hand. MO 

– Elle Andra-Warner is an author, journalist and 

photographer based in Thunder Bay. 

visitredlakeregion.com 1-877-266-3733 



great 

escapes 

Living on Island Standard Time by Cathy Bennett 

N 

Pelee Island 

Back on the Mainland 

Leamington is the tomato capital of 

Canada, with many roadside stands 

and greenhouses aplenty. Several 

South Coast wineries are also in the 

area. Nearby Point Pelee National 

Park lives up to every expectation. 

Besides great hiking trails, a walk 

or canoe trip around the Marsh 

Boardwalk is a wonderful way to 

while away a warm afternoon. 

Perhaps it’s the awe-inspiring sight of the 

Great Egret, the stunning beachside view 

at the Wavecrest B&B, or the Pelee Island 

Lighthouse cast in early morning light. 

Whatever the reason, we already seem to 

be on ‘island time’. And we’ve been here 

less than 24 hours! 

“I was very punctual before I moved 

here,” Claire Sanders, the head naturalist 

at the Bird Observatory, says with a laugh 

as she leads us through the woods to the 

banding station. 

Today’s prize is a magnolia warbler – 

a tiny creature that’s amazingly calm, 

considering he’s perched on a stranger’s 

finger. It only takes a few minutes to take 

fat and weight measurements, determine 

the warbler’s sex and age, and attach the 

tiniest of aluminum bands before our 

winged friend is up, up and away. 

Pelee Island – the southernmost point 

in Canada – is internationally recognized 

as a significant stopover site for migratory 

birds, with 103 species sighted on 

the island. 

Besides birding field guides, you’ll 

want to bring along your plant, tree and 

wildlife guides because Pelee Island is 

home to incredible natural diversity – 

Carolinian forests, wetlands, sand dunes, 

alvars and a myriad of rare plant, tree and 

animal species (some endangered). 

Biking is also a popular activity on the 

island, and you can cycle around the 

perimeter (14.5 km long x 3.5 km wide) 

in about four hours. Bike rentals are 

available across from the ferry dock, or 

bring your own. 

For lunch, the Pelee Island Wine 

Pavilion is about as perfect as it gets. 

Go inside and savour delicious samples, 

like the wonderful Shiraz Reserve we 

select. Head out to the picnic area 

and order your entrees, and then you 

barbecue. (You, in my case, would be my 

husband, John.) Tours are also available 

and provide fascinating glimpses into the 

rich, wine-growing tradition on the island. 

This peaceful little piece of paradise 

called Pelee Island is accessible by public 

ferry, personal watercraft or air. Book the 

ferry early, especially if you want to take 

your vehicle. MO 

– Cathy Bennett is a freelance writer who has 

won numerous travel-writing awards. She loves 

cruising Ontario’s highways and byways with her 

artist husband John. 

pelee.org (519) 724-2931 

visitwindsor.com 1-800-265-3633 


118 


Opposite page, L–R: Birdwatching is a popular activity; The Marsh Boardwalk at Point Pelee National Park. 

This page: A sign welcomes you to Canada’s warmest and southernmost vineyards. 


great 

escapes 

Answering the Call of the Wild 

N 

Haliburton 

My curiosity about dogsledding was 

stronger than my apprehension about 

dogs, so I decided to face my fears. With 

afternoon and multi-day excursions 

available, I decided that a couple of hours 

was all I needed. One lesson on sledhandling 

later, and the dogs were brought 

out. Their excitement and energy was 

contagious, and I quickly felt comfortable 

with these pros. In a matter of minutes, 

I was driving the dog team, my partner 

cozy under a blanket. 

Flying down the trail with the wind 

in my face and the snow rushing by 

was exhilarating, and I felt in complete 

control. The dogs were so well-trained 

and attuned to my every command as 

they bounded over the crisp snow. Soon, 

it was my partner’s turn up front, and I 

reluctantly handed over the reins. Tucked 

under thick blankets, it was just as much 

fun to feel like a snow queen, whooshing 

through the wilderness. 

Although we were out sledding through 

forests and across frozen lakes for two 

hours, it felt like it had only been a few 

minutes. We patted the panting dogs for 

a job well done, their tongues hanging 

out and eyes bright with the thrill of 

the run. Pulling out of the driveway, I 

soon found myself mulling over our next 

dogsledding excursion; with a stay at Sir 

Sam’s Inn or maybe the Delta Pinestone 

Resort, I could try a multi-day adventure. 

The thought of afternoons filled with 

piney trails and a moonlight romp with a 

big bonfire sounds bold and exciting – I 

can’t wait to hit the trails again. As we 

headed home for the day, cheeks flushed 

and breathlessly recounting our favourite 

moments of the trip, I remembered the 

happy barks of the dogs and smiled. MO 

winterdance.com 1-877-MUSH-123 

haliburtonholidays.com 1-800-461-7677 


More canine capers 

in Haliburton 

The fun doesn’t have to stop at 

‘mush’ – there are lots of great 

indoor and outdoor activities 

to try. Explore the Haliburton 

Forest and Wild Life Reserve 

to learn all about the majestic 

wolf, and hear the howls of their 

resident wolf pack. Or for the 

adventurous, climb aboard a 

snowmobile for groomed trails 

covering over 60,000 acres of 

powdery wilderness and frozen 

waterways. You’re sure to enjoy 

this winter wonderland! 

Opposite page: End of an exhilarating dogsled trip on Bowen Lake, Haliburton. Photo: Andrew Dunt, National 


Helicopters. This page: A resident of the Haliburton Forest and Wild Life Reserve wolf pack holds court. 


great 

escapes 

Come on over! 

All that Glitters in Timmins by Ilona Kauremszky 

Shania Twain, the multi-platinum 

gold award-winning singer, has her 

hometown of Timmins smitten with 

her. So much so that a trip here 

reveals a street name, roadside 

billboards and a trail named after her. 

And then there’s the Shania Twain 

Centre – a fan’s dream come true. 

View clothes, a piano, photos and 

hear the tunes of Timmins’ biggest 

export after gold. 

Timmins 

N 

I admit to two things: I have a soft spot 

for Shania Twain and I have a penchant 

for gold. 

So with my other half we planned a trip 

to Timmins to see this dynamic duo: a 

tour through the historic Hollinger Gold 

Mine located at the Shania Twain Centre. 

Inside the locker room of Shaft No. 11 – 

outfitted in a hard hat, rubber boots, 

and overalls – retired miner Claude 

Beaudin declares how our similarly attired 

crew of couples and families are now 

ready to enter Canada’s most productive 

gold mine. 

He teases, “You missy, you’re going 

to freeze from your nose to your toes,” 

warning us of the 3°C temperature. 

Crammed like sardines, we squish 

together in a cage and descend about 

30 m (100 feet) below the surface. 

During the mine’s heydays between 

1910 and 1968, over 3,000 workers 

produced 19.5 million ounces of gold. 

They were the men who descended into 

these cathedrals of the underworld, as 

miners worked in 965 km (600 miles) of 

tunnels, 1.6 km (1 mile) below (roughly 

the height of three CN Towers). 

For years the Porcupine region was 

hailed as ‘the Klondike of Northern 

Ontario’. In 1909, a young Benny 

Hollinger accidentally stumbled across 

what would become the richest gold 

producer in the western hemisphere. 

Claude dares, “Anyone want to open this 

door to the explosives room” Cre-eeeak… 

as the door opens, danger signs labelled 

‘Do not enter’ brazenly appear. By the glow 

of a single bulb, the remains of ‘Oscar’ the 

skeleton stare back at us. 

“Shut off your lights and listen,” hushes 

Claude. Suddenly we are immersed in 

pitch black. “This is what a miner sees if 

his life is underground.” Deeper into the 

mine we delve, reaching 46 m (150 feet) 

below, where we watch demonstrations of 

equipment with names like the mucker, 

the big slusher and the jack-leg drill. 

I felt I had struck it rich spending a day 

with Claude, who has witnessed a lot over 

the years. “I still love coming down here 

explaining what used to be,” said the wise 

old miner, whose own gold fever is very 

much alive and well. MO 

timminsgoldminetour.com 

1-800-387-8466 

shaniatwaincentre.com 1-800-387-8466 

tourismtimmins.com 1-800-387-8466 


– Ilona Kauremszky is a weekly travel columnist and 

editor of mycompass.ca 

122 


Opposite page, L–R: Timmins’ brightest star, Shania Twain; the Shania Twain Centre welcomes 

fans and visitors to the Timmins Underground Gold Mine Tour. Photo: Stephen Smith. 

This page: A chunk of unprocessed gold is some serious bling. Photo: Stephen Smith. 


Digging Resources Deeper 

dig deeper 

Fort Severn 

Hudson Bay 

Peawanuck 

MANITOBA 

Winisk Lake 

Attawapiskat 

James 

Bay 

Attawapiskat Lake 

For a sample of what to see and do in Ontario, simply contact the 

following organizations. 

1 

2 

3 

Norfolk County Tourism 

Come feel the warmth of 

Ontario’s South Coast. 

Cruise the scenic villages of Lake 

Erie – from Port Dover to Long 

Point. Beautiful beaches, natural 

escapes and the best local 

experiences. 

norfolktourism.ca 

1-800-699-9038 

Haldimand County 

Camp, fish, cycle, shop or just 

relax along the Grand River and 

feel the warmth of Ontario’s 

South Coast! 

TourismHaldimand.com 

1-800-863-9607 

Tourism Niagara 

Stop at our Gateway Information 

Centre – Casablanca exit – 

QEW – for brochures, maps, 

discount attraction tickets, 

accommodations. Open 

363 days. 

tourismniagara.com 

1-800-263-2988 

Tourism Brantford 

Brantford ‘The Telephone City’ 

just one hour west of the GTA. 

Great value for your next family 

holiday. Come call on us! 

visitbrantford.ca 

1-800-265-6299 

Guelph and Wellington County 

Escape to the laid-back fun 

and flavours of Guelph & 

Wellington County, only one hour 

west of Toronto. 

visitguelphwellington.ca 

1-800-334-4519 

The Hills of Headwaters 

Tourism Region 

Step outside Toronto’s back 

door to the headwaters of four 

watersheds, the hills of the 

Niagara Escarpment and the 

heartland of small-town Ontario. 

thehillsofheadwaters.com 

1-866-881-8862 

For more information, check out ontariotravel.net 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

Northumberland Tourism 

Just one hour east of Toronto. 

Pristine beaches, outdoor 

adventure and trails, eclectic 

shopping, festivals, charming 

towns and genuine hospitality. 

northumberlandtourism.com 

1-866-401-EAST (3278) 

City of Kawartha Lakes 

Tourism 

Ninety minutes northeast of 

Toronto, Kawartha Lakes is on the 

Trent-Severn Waterway – linking 

communities, rich in history and 

local charm. Spectacular natural 

attractions abound. 

explorekawarthalakes.com 

1-866-397-6673 

Haliburton Highlands 

Your four-season destination. 

A natural work of art! 

haliburtonholidays.com 

1-800-461-7677 

10 

Rideau Heritage Route 

Tourism Association 

From Ottawa to Kingston 

along the Rideau Canal, 

the Route winds its way 

through a variety of 

world-class heritage 

experiences. 

rideauheritageroute.ca 

(613) 389-4783 

Ontario Accommodation 

Association 

Free Traveller’s Companion 

Accommodation Directory. 

Website: Passport Information, 

Travel Gems (non-mainstream 

attractions), Culinary Delights 

(great food), Currency Converter. 

Seasonal Offers. 

ontarioaccommodation.com 

1-800-461-1972 

 

Kenora 

Red Lake 

Lac Seul 

Sioux Lookout 

Dryden 

Sioux Narrows 

Lake 

of the Woods Nestor Falls 

Ignace 

Rainy River 

 

Rainy 

Lake 

International Falls 

Fort Frances 

 

Atikokan 

 

 

MINNESOTA 

Lake St. Joseph 

Pickle Lake 

 

Armstrong 

Lake 

Nipigon 

Thunder Bay 

Pigeon River 

Ontario Travel Information Centres 

YEAR-ROUND CENTRES 

Barrie 

Cornwall ($) 

Fort Erie ($) 

Fort Frances ($) 

Niagara Falls ($) 

St. Catharines ($) 

Sarnia ($) 

Sault Ste. Marie ($) 

Toronto Atrium On Bay ($) 

Windsor Huron ($) 

Windsor Park ($) 

SEASONAL CENTRES 

(May to October) 

Hawkesbury 

Hill Island 

Kenora 

Lancaster 

Pigeon River 

Prescott 

Rainy River 

Nipigon 

Terrace Bay 

Lake 

Michigan 

Geraldton 

Lake Superior 

ONTARIO 

Nakina 

Manitouwadge 

Marathon 

Wawa 


MICHIGAN 

Algoma Central Railway 

 

Hearst 

Kapuskasing 

Chapleau 

Crown Game 

Preserve 

CN Railway 

Chapleau 


Lake 

Huron 

Polar Bear Express 

Blind River 

North Channel Espanola 637 

Killarney 

Manitoulin Island 

South Baymouth 

Georgian 

Bay 

Tobermory 

North Bay 

Lake 

Nipissing 

QUEBEC 

Algonquin 

Provincial Park 

Parry Sound Barry’s Bay 

Ottawa Lancaster 

Huntsville 

 

 

9 Haliburton Merrickville Cornwall 

Penetanguishene Gravenhurst 

7 

Morrisburg 

Midland 

35 

 

Owen Sound 26 Collingwood 

Lansdowne Prescott 

8 

Peterborough 

7 37 

10 Barrie 

 

10 Brockville 

 

12 

89 

33 Kingston 

Port Perry 7 

Orangeville 

Port Hope Picton 

6 

Goderich 23 

Toronto 

5 

Lake Ontario 

Stratford Hamilton 

QEW St. Catharines 

Sarnia 

Rochester 

London 4 

6 Niagara Falls 

Port Huron 

3 

 

Buffalo 

Port Dover 2 Fort 

1 

Erie 

Detroit 

 

Chatham 

NEW YORK 

Windsor 

Lake Erie 

Pelee Island 

Timmins 

Elliot Lake 

Moosonee 

Cochrane 

Kirkland Lake 

Gogama 

Temiskaming Shores 

Temagami 

Sudbury 

 

Pembroke 

Hawkesbury 

 

($) Currency exchange on site. Core hours of operation: daily all year long from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. June to August extended hours 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. 

Visit ontariotravel.net/travelcentres for locations, addresses and hours of operation. 

Visit ontariotravel.net or call 1-800-ONTARIO to order your complimentary Official Road Map of Ontario or download a PDF version at mto.gov.on.ca 



Marketplace 

THERE’S NO PLACE 

LIKE THIS 

TO GET HELPFUL 

ADVICE ABOUT 

EXPLORING ONTARIO 

If you haven’t been to 

Sudbury lately, you 

haven’t been to Sudbury! 

Welcome to 

the Past! 

Agawa Canyon Premier 

Dome Car Experience 

Visit one of our 18 Ontario 

Travel Information Centres 

on your road to discovery. 

Have you heard There’s Big Change 

in the home of the Big Nickel! New 

hotels, restaurants, shopping, festivals, 

fascinating new exhibits at Science 

North and Dynamic Earth – Sudbury’s 

a whole new adventure! 

History comes alive at Fort William 

Historical Park and you can be part of 

the action! Step back into 1815 and 

experience one of the world’s finest 

cultural and recreational attractions. 

The Agawa Canyon Tour Train offers an 

exclusive one-day adventure into the 

heart of Northern Ontario, aboard a 

luxury dome car. Packages include two 

nights’ accommodation and access to 

other attractions. 

Open Year-round 

sudburytourism.ca/bigchange 

fwhp.ca 

northernontario.com 

We’ve Got You 

Covered. ® 

Get Fresh. 

Visit a Farm. 

Resorts of Ontario 

invites you to: Come on 

up to our place. 

When you’re out cruising around Ontario be 

sure to drop by an Ontario Travel Information 

Centre. You’ll get friendly advice from local 

folks who really know the area. And they can 

help you plan a getaway experience tailored to 

you and your family. Select centres also convert 

currency, sell gifts and souvenirs. Hope to see 

you soon! 

ontariotravel.net/travelcentres 

Ontario Travel Information 

Centre LOCATIONS 

YEAR-ROUND CENTRES 

Barrie 

Cornwall ($) 

Fort Erie ($) 

Fort Frances ($) 

Niagara Falls ($) 

St. Catharines ($) 

Sarnia ($) 

Sault Ste. Marie ($) 

Toronto Atrium On Bay ($) 

Windsor Huron ($) 

Windsor Park ($) 

SEASONAL CENTRES 

(May to October) 

Hawkesbury 

Hill Island 

Kenora 

Lancaster 

Pigeon River 

Prescott 

Rainy River 

($) Currency exchange on site. 

Canadas/Americas Best Value Inn is a 

family of over 900 inns, hotels and suites 

throughout North America, offering 

hometown comfort, quality and 

exceptional value. For reservations call 

1-888-315-2378. 

Ontario Farm Fresh is your #1 source 

in Ontario for fresh food, fresh fun, and 

fresh experiences. 

www.ontariofarmfresh.com 

With more than 100 resorts to choose from 

there is an experience and new memory 

just around the corner. To order your 

Great Escapes guide call 1-800-363-7227 

or visit us online. 

Core hours of operation: daily all year long from 8:30 a.m. 

to 4:30 p.m. June to August extended hours 8:00 a.m. to 

8:00 p.m. See map on page 125. 

AmericasBestValueInn.com 

webgoeshere.ca 

ontariofarmfresh.com 

resortsofontario.com 

webgoeshere.ca 


Marketplace 

Marketplace 

Step into a 

different century! 

Where kids are 

Elves for a day! 

Step into a 

different century! 

FAMILY 

CENTRED 

Five Famous Attractions. 

One Amazing Price. Avoid 

Most Ticket Lines. 

LUMINATO FESTIVAL 

TORONTO | JUNE 5–14, 2009 

Visit Discovery Harbour and go back to 

the days of the 19th century Royal Navy 

on beautiful Penetanguishene Bay. 

Home of Tall Ships H.M.S. Bee and 

H.M.S. Tecumseth. 

For 2009 opening dates and 

events, please visit our website. 

Enjoy a visit with Santa, rides, live shows, 

and entertaining family activities. 

For the older kids there are Go-Karts, 

batting cages, minigolf, laser tag and 

an arcade. 

(705) 645-2512 

Explore Sainte-Marie among the Hurons, 

a nationally significant historic site that 

tells the dramatic story of the original 

17th century French Jesuit mission to the 

Huron people. 

For 2009 opening dates and 

events, please visit our website. 

Just steps from the CN Tower, Air Canada 

Centre, and dozens of family attractions, 

InterContinental Toronto Centre offers 

four-diamond comfort surrounded by the 

best of the city. Call (416) 597-1400 today. 

Experience Toronto’s CN Tower, Casa 

Loma, Ontario Science Centre, the 

Royal Ontario Museum, and the Toronto 

Zoo for only $59 CAD (value $108), Youth 

(4–12) $39. Valid for 9 days. Available at 

all attractions, or 1-877-843-7277. 

Luminato returns for its third year with 

world and Canadian premieres of theatre, 

dance, music and visual arts, special 

celebrations and free events. 

On sale April 16 – call (416) 872-1111 or 

visit ticketmaster.ca 

Pricing and programs are 

subject to change. 

discoveryharbour.on.ca 

santasvillage.ca 

saintemarieamongthehurons.on.ca 

ictc.com 

citypass.com 

luminato.com 

Breathe Deeply 

Ste. Anne’s Spa – 

Voted Canada’s 

Favourite Spa 

Gananoque IS 

the 1000 Islands – 

PLAY! RELAX! EXPLORE! 

Out of the 

Ordinary. 

Not out of the way. 

In Between 

Winter, Spring, 

Summer and Fall… 

Provincial Attractions 

Experience a unique getaway, just an 

hour east of Toronto in Northumberland 

County. Enjoy historic towns, sandy 

beaches and an endless supply of fresh 

air. Contact us for your free travel 

brochure. 1-866-401-EAST (3278). 

Since 1985, Ste. Anne’s Spa has catered 

to the needs of its guests by creating a 

spectacular and comfortable environment 

that focuses on rejuvenating your body 

and soul. 

WIN A GETAWAY FOR TWO! 

Discover Gilded Age Castles, Cruises, 

Theatre, OLG Casino, Golf, Resorts, 

B&Bs, Galleries, Hiking, Biking, Fishing 

and Paddling in our United 

Nations designated 

BIOSPHERE RESERVE. 

1-800-561-1595 

A best-loved destination! Fine shops, 

crafts, year-round farmers’ markets, 

theatre, superb restaurants, inns. Enjoy 

model railway, The Mennonite Story, 

Maple Syrup Museum, horse-drawn 

tours. Quilt festival last 

week of May annually. 

Most stores open daily except 

Dec. 25, Jan. 1 

St. Catharines has variety. Enjoy Rodman 

Hall Art Gallery or ride Port Dalhousie’s 

historic carousel. Hike the Bruce Trail or 

visit Niagara’s award-winning wineries. 

It’s all in St. Catharines. 

Go online to download our interactive 

Provincial Attractions PDF. 

NorthumberlandTourism.com 

steannes.com 

1000islandstourism.com 

stjacobs.com 

tourismstcatharines.ca 

ontariotravel.net/attractions 



FEBFEST 

February 3rd - 8th 

KINGSTON CANADIAN 

FILM FESTIVAL 

February 25th - March 1st 

1000 ISLANDS 

DINNER CRUISES 

May - October 

SUNSET CEREMONIES 

Wed. July - August 

MOVIES IN 

MARKET SQUARE 

June, July, August 

KINGSTON BUSKERS 

RENDEZVOUS 

July 9th - 12th 

1000 ISLANDS 

POKER RUN 

August 7th - 9th 

UNITED STATES 

MARINE CORPS 

JOINT CEREMONIAL 


LIMESTONE CITY 

BLUES FESTIVAL 


the story behind… 

FORT FRIGHT 

FESTIVAL OF FEAR 

Sept 25th - Oct 31st 

THE SLEEPING GIANT 

by Cathy Bennett 

Looking across Lake Superior from Thunder Bay, you can easily envision the colossal land formation 

before you as a man with his arms folded across his massive chest. But what’s the legend behind the 

Sleeping Giant…the audience’s top choice in the 2007 CBC Seven Wonders of Canada 

Nanna Bijou, the Spirit of the Deep Sea Water, wanted to reward the peaceful, industrious Ojibway 

on Isle Royale. He shared the location of Silver Islet, a rich silver mine, with the Ojibway chief, warning 

him that if the tribe told the white man, Nanna Bijou would be turned to stone. The tribe, who became 

known for silver ornaments, was infiltrated by a Sioux who discovered the mine’s location and divulged 

it to white traders. A terrible storm ensued. What was once a wide passage into Thunder Bay was 

transformed into a great figure in repose. Nanna Bijou’s prophecy had been fulfilled. He had been 

turned to stone. MO 

visitthunderbay.com (807) 625-2230 

OntarioParks.com 1-888-668-7275 

This year, visit Kingston – Ontario’s 

newest and only World Heritage Destination. 

Fort Henry National Historic Site of Canada, the 

Rideau Canal and Kingston Fortifications achieved 

the UNESCO World Heritage designation in June 

of 2007. Kingston is a definite overnight must, 

with a unique blend of culture, history, indoor 

and outdoor entertainment and events, criticallyacclaimed 

cuisine and pristine natural beauty. 

Centred between Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal, 

Kingston is an easy, scenic drive and a ‘muststop’ 

while vacationing in Ontario. Check out 

visitkingston.ca to reserve accommodations and 

plan sightseeing itineraries and events today! 

World’s Fresh Water Capital 

Fort Henry - National Historic Site of Canada 

1000 Islands Sightseeing & Dinner Cruises 

200+ 

Restaurants 

Pubs & Patios 

130 MY ONTARIO • ontariotravel.net

My Ontario

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