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SPECIAL ENGLISH ISSUE - Dressers Roma.com

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STYLE WARS<br />

…avere un look…<br />

<strong>SPECIAL</strong> <strong>ENGLISH</strong> <strong>ISSUE</strong><br />

e-mail:stylewars@hotmail.it, http://stylewars.splinder.<strong>com</strong>, facebook: stile wars


L’INDICE<br />

. . . non si punta!<br />

A GUY CALLED MINTY PAG.03<br />

CASS PENNANT PAG.05<br />

CARTERS CASUAL PAG.08<br />

COUNTY LADS PAG.10<br />

PEACEFUL HOOLIGAN PAG.12<br />

PROPER MAGAZINE PAG.15<br />

THE CASUAL CONNOISSEIURS PAG.17<br />

THE NORTHERN BOYS CLUB PAG.21<br />

TERRACE ORIGINALS PAG.24<br />

EDDY BRIMSON PAG.25<br />

80S CASUALS PAG.27<br />

ANNIS ABRAHAM JNR PAG.31<br />

PAOLO HEWITT PAG.33<br />

IAN HOUGH PAG.35<br />

PHIL THORNTON PAG.40


A GUY CALLED MINTY<br />

When was the first time you start thinking about "aguy called minty" project?why?<br />

A guy called minty really has <strong>com</strong>e from how I sell my artwork. I sell alot of my work through<br />

word of mouth....so really if someone sees my artwork and asks who did it or where it came<br />

from...the reply would be "a guy called minty"...<br />

Which were the difficulties that you had at the beginning, and which are the current ones?<br />

Always have difficulties especially from the begining <strong>com</strong>ing up with ideas that are different from<br />

anyone else and still make a living from my passion. As an artist I strive to improve my technique<br />

with each and every painting and take this also wit my tshirt designs. Current difficulties are<br />

<strong>com</strong>ing up with original cost efffective tshirt designs that would sell...<br />

A part from casuals, which are your main inspirations ?<br />

Main inspirations <strong>com</strong>e from every angle...whether it'd be film, music, art, fashion or just every day<br />

life..My main inspitation are other fellow artists...who I totally respect..and admire....and take a<br />

strong interest in caricature art. There are some unbelievable working artists out there today such as<br />

Jason Seiler, Paul Moyse, Chris Wahl, and many more..but all time favourite caricature artist would<br />

be Seb Kruger.....genius....also take inspiration from other traditional artists like David Kassan and<br />

Jeremy Geddes..their work is amazing.<br />

How responded the British and the European lads to your brand?<br />

I have sold Artwork and tshirts all over the world....espeically the uk. The North of england and<br />

parts of scotland seem to love what I produce. Other Brands have taken notice also and have invited<br />

me to work along side them in current projects.<br />

What is your football team?<br />

Cardiff City...<br />

What is your favorite English ground? And why?<br />

Ninian..for the atmosphere. Been to some magic games there on the Bob bank Terraces.<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

A few Swansea V Cardiff derby's...<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the Wales team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”?


Yes followed the national team a few times to Milan 2003...and prague 2007 both games lost but<br />

was great atmosphere and experience.<br />

What do you think about the Italian Casual scene?<br />

Yes Love the Italian Casual scene. It doesnt seem not to disimilar to the UK sub culture. Facebook<br />

is a great way of viewing the italian way..."Terraces" are probably the brand that springs to mind..<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

Any of my many pairs of adidas trainers.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

Massive Beatles fan but love all kinds of music from indie through to ska through to dance and<br />

House...favourite son? Well currently listening to a band called Little Barrie titled "We are little<br />

Barrie" and the Songs I cannot stop listening too is Stones throw and Please tell me....<br />

Who was your all-time favourite player?<br />

I was born in 1978 so wasnt priviledged to see George best play.. but maradona was a great<br />

player.....Uk based, Id have to say Kenny Dalgish was my favourite player.<br />

SITO: http://aguycalledminty.<strong>com</strong>/<br />

FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/Casual.kicks<br />

TO BUY T-SHIRT: http://www.redbubble.<strong>com</strong>/people/mikiemint/portfolio<br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 8


CASS PENNANT<br />

Can you explain the relationship between Di Canio and the west ham fans? and your<br />

relationship with him?<br />

It’s a special one with the fans because West Ham was the club that bought him and showed faith in<br />

him to buy him at a time many in the game thought his Premier League career to be finished after<br />

being banned for a record number of games for his push on referee Alcock whist playing for<br />

Sheffield Wednesday.<br />

He scored some of his best ever goals in West Ham colours and was their player of the season. His<br />

passion and goals and sometimes manic theatrics all help cement a special relation with the West<br />

Ham fans, he has played for many clubs and has always won the support of the fans but with us I<br />

think he feels it like similar to his relations with home club Lazio, he understands fan passions.<br />

My relationship with Paolo di Canio is that of a fan, a big fan I of him because he has pure skill of<br />

the highest level and also a good football brain to make his skills count. We have meet personally<br />

and he is always respectful because he a rare player who appreciates the fan supporters.<br />

Why many Italians love the west ham? and how do u feel about it?<br />

I think this is because West Ham United is as much about the supporters as it is the team, the<br />

ground has great atmosphere too. It’s a club with character and is very different mentality to the<br />

other big London clubs. West Ham is as much about the people as it is the team and Italians know<br />

all about the ICF and bands like the Cockney Rejects.<br />

What were the problems with the registration of your movie?<br />

My movie <strong>com</strong>e out in UK cinema 2008 then a year later DVD was sold worldwide but with world<br />

recession affecting the movie industry it was difficult to make sales for film rights in various<br />

countries, films were sold too cheap or buyers for the distributers bought less films available on the<br />

market. This is why it was not a DVD available in Italy. But in the UK it has been a cult movie and<br />

with the internet I know many Italians have seen the film too. l very proud of how we made the film<br />

and owe a lot to film diector Jon S Baird (Aberdeen fan) and producer Stefan Haller (WHU fan) as<br />

they gave me a lot of control in making the film as theyb wanted to get it real as they could. So I got<br />

in real firms like Stoke ‘Naughty Forty’ and Wolves ‘Yam Yam army’ and Middlesborough<br />

‘Frontline’ boys to play the firms and we had no support from Fila etc like other films so the casual<br />

clothing was originals the lads still had which they gave to the younger guys because they no longer<br />

fitted them or the lads spent weeks on Ebay buying up bits. The cast was best of younger British<br />

actors and all the new UK films today appear in and now I have them as friends because they said<br />

they were proud to be part of a real story. I in the film myself as a nightclub bouncer with my friend<br />

Frank Bruno, the former World champion boxer and a famous West Ham player Frank Macviennie<br />

also appeared in my film, every just said it was not about money but in supporting me. Now that is<br />

personal so enjoy my movie if yet to watch it.<br />

Was it difficult to interview the lads for "terraces legends" book? Someone declined?


It was a challenge because many leaders were once former rivals or not happy to be in books<br />

before, so I see this as a respect that I achieved with them as I know a normal book writer could<br />

never get the interviews I achieved for the book. I co-wrote the book with Martin King who is a<br />

Chelsea rival as well as a good author of Chelsea books. I worked with him because of the fan<br />

rivalry I knew that some leaders would rather speak with Chelsea more than West Ham and viceversa.<br />

Some wanted to do interviews but were stopped by their leaders, others did interviews that<br />

were later removed because of police arrests etc, so we lost Leeds, Brighton and Arsenal lads but<br />

everyone interviewed we did meet face-to-face, they were not email interviews.<br />

What is your book that has sold more?<br />

I have been author of 8 football fan books; both the books CASS (life story) and<br />

CONGRATULATIONS you have just meet the ICF are both equally the biggest sellers and still sell<br />

today.<br />

What is your next project? a little preview...<br />

My main project at moment is to make a definitive film documentary for the DVD market on the<br />

story of Casuals, a working-class football subculture that has left a lasting legacy whose impact is<br />

clearly apparent today. The film will reveal how a whole casual lifestyle emerged around fashion,<br />

music and football gangs and we will bring authenticity to this film by interviewing personalities<br />

who were at the heart of the story at the time.<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to? describe it...<br />

It would be too long to describe the away matches I have had to fight my way in and out from; the<br />

book I wrote on the ICF gives great details of such matches. I would say the old Den at Millwall in<br />

the 70’s, no CCTV, no stewards, no normal supporters, very few police for the battle of the hardest<br />

to say who guv’nors of London are. The north of England was bad too and the long walk from train<br />

station to Liverpool’s ground was a nightmare walk to keep together as a firm without splitting up.<br />

Years change, firms change, so we all have own experiences and I sure as a firm we would add<br />

Palermo too.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”?<br />

In the 70’s the English supported their clubs more until Scotland fans wrecked Wembley in ’77 and<br />

England fans said never again we must defend the national honor and not just the clubs. The heyday<br />

80’s of the casual saw West Ham go England as a firm on their own and this how it stayed because<br />

our rivals would join forces to get their revenge on West Ham. In the 80’s and 90’s firms like Leeds<br />

and Man Utd stopped going England because rivals would join forces against each other. England<br />

fans in recent years do not really <strong>com</strong>e from the super firms but little clubs with small mobs.<br />

What is your favorite English ground? And why?<br />

Upton Park and not just because it my team but because it is different and has great fan history, the<br />

walk down Green Street, the pubs like Boleyn are famous to football fans etc. The World Cup<br />

winners Moore, Hurst and Peters I watched as a young boy at Upton Park which is really called the<br />

Boleyn Ground but every West Ham fan says Upton Park, home of the song ‘I’m forever blowing<br />

bubbles’.


What is the top firm now in England for you??<br />

There is no top firm today because of the tough laws and policing but I would say Tottenham have a<br />

really big active firm but the old legend firms are still strong for one or two games per season, West<br />

Ham, Millwall, Birmingham, Man Utd, Cardiff, Leeds can still put heavy firms together.<br />

Which are the italian supporters you like the most, and why?<br />

Lazio without question because I have been to mainland Italy recently at invitation of Lazio<br />

ultras/tiffo and shown first-hand their supporters culture while before that I had only been to Sicily<br />

and Palermo fans I’d met with respect even after some real war with the ICF. Then working as a<br />

consultant behind the scenes on International Football Factories TV documentary made me<br />

interested in learning about fans of Napoli and Atlanta and even clubs like Bologna and Salernitana.<br />

I also had good experience meeting ultras of many clubs at the Mondiali Antirazzisti 2010 and<br />

enjoy meeting Italian hammers fans at Upton Park.<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

I always would have a favorite jacket to wear to games which I would call my matchday clobber. In<br />

the 70’s my Gabbici jumper and leather trenchcoat mac, like John Shaft wore in the movie. The<br />

80’s my MA1 jacket or the bright blue Burberry jacket no-one had in England as I found it in a shop<br />

in Spain. Today it’s a hooded North Face lightweight raincoat or my Fila lightweight rain jacket<br />

with no hood.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

My music choices are wide as l like Motown, 70’s funk, classic rock anthems and Trojan records.<br />

These are the choices I loyal too most so I will leave you with the record on the Trojon record label<br />

I played a lot privately when they began to start making my film of my own life.<br />

The Harder They Come – Jimmy Cliff<br />

Sito: http://www.casspennant.<strong>com</strong>/index.shtml<br />

Facebook: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/pages/Cass-Pennant/25035702868<br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 11


CARTERS CASUAL<br />

When did you started to draw casuals, and when producing t –shirts?<br />

I have always drawn since i was a child and have always liked caricatures, i started drawing and<br />

designing casual art around a year ago when my liking of casual clothing and culture grew stronger,<br />

i wanted to pursue this genre in my t shirt designs.<br />

A part from casuals, which are your main inspirations ? I see you choosed a gas mask for one<br />

of your shirts: is it the “Dead Man Shoes” one?<br />

Yes the gask mask is from shane meadows film dead mans shoes, i take inspiration from my<br />

designs from films, such as the football factory, the business, this is england etc. My main<br />

inspiration for my designs is male culture, football and fashion.<br />

What it’s the creation you’re most attached to?<br />

My favourite design is probably the gas mask casual, or casuals against the wall, they both look<br />

great on a t shirt<br />

Do you draw everything freehand? Or do you assist yourself with some <strong>com</strong>puter program?<br />

I start all of my designs with freehand sketch on A4 paper, i then scan the rough design into a<br />

scanner, then move onto the detail sections by using programs such as photoshop, gimp and<br />

photostudio, i use which will work best for the finished piece.<br />

Is there a city that you get more orders in particular?<br />

Most of my orders <strong>com</strong>e from within the UK especially the London area, i have noticed a growing<br />

interest from Italy and Spain also.<br />

What is your football team?<br />

I follow Newcastle Utd, it is not the greatest football club in the world, but i love my citys passion,<br />

and loyal support<br />

What is your favorite English ground? And why?<br />

My favourite ground is St James Park as i love the atmosphere and its location within the city, i also<br />

like the Emirates as i think it is a wonderfull Structure<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

Probably Sunderland vs Newcastle at the Stadium of Light, passions are High as it is a local derby


Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”<br />

I follow England but only via News reports and the media and television, my club <strong>com</strong>es before my<br />

country and always will do<br />

Which are the italian supporters you like the most, and why?<br />

I do not get to see many Italian matches here in the UK however i rate Inter Milan as a great<br />

attacking entertaining football team, every match i get to see their fans sound very loud and<br />

energetic<br />

What’s the best book about casual culture for you?<br />

Top Boys, The Real Football Factories and A Casual Look<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

My CP Company Sunglasses Watchviewer jacket, or one of my Stone Island Jackets<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

I love Oasis, especially the track Supersonic, and i love Ian Brown and the Stone Roses, favourite<br />

tracks being Waterfall and I wanna be adored, great bands great songs<br />

http://www.redbubble.<strong>com</strong>/people/carterscasuals/shop/t-shirts<br />

FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/profile.php?id=100001386859246<br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 6


COUNTY LADS<br />

When was the first time you start thinking about countylads project?why?<br />

It started about 2000 when there was a big boom of lads/hooligans turning out a lot, most of them<br />

had a website too, but we didn't, so we set one up which at first was mainly a 'hooligan' inspired<br />

one, but started to grow, and became the best casual site on the net!<br />

I've had millions of hits now, and regularly get feedback from across the world, unfortunately my<br />

team faltered and went from the Championship to League Two, so I concentrated a lot more on the<br />

scene in general and not just my club.<br />

I've had people from Denmark, Sweden, Italy and South America claiming Stockport as their<br />

second team, so I must have been doing something right.<br />

What do you think about "italian casual scene"?<br />

The British casual scene owes a lot to Italy, regarding Massimo Osti who's held in such high regard<br />

to a lt of people, and Stone Island and CP Company have been staple terrace labels for 20 odd<br />

years. I think Italians are pretty different to us in general though, especially in the way we dress.<br />

It still seems very lively in Italy, whereas over here the authorities treat football disorder like it's a<br />

really big deal, people have been jailed for very minor things in the UK, it's really 'on top' as they<br />

say.<br />

What's your favourite football club in Italy?<br />

I don't really have one to be honest, and wouldn't like to say anyone for the sake of it, so I'll remain<br />

impartial.<br />

I admire the ultras and the huge displays they can put on for big games, massive flags, banners and<br />

flares, we just cannot do that over here.<br />

I did manage to blag a free pass for the European Cup Final at Old Trafford a few years ago AC<br />

Milan v Juventus, and the atmosphere was superb.<br />

Snakebite or Guinness?<br />

I'd say Guinness, but I'm a Boddingtons man<br />

Fish n' chips or kebab?<br />

just chips really or Pizza , I'm a veggie(vegetariano)!<br />

One thing in your wardrobe you could never part with?<br />

Well, I've just sold one of my Mille's - that was one I never thought I'd sell, I'd say my vintage<br />

Berghaus 'Lightning' jacket or my Left Hand jacket.<br />

What's your favourite Italian label?Why?


I'd could say Stone Island, people say it's been hammered over here, and it has, there's certain times<br />

I just could not wear it, as it draws too much attention.<br />

But it's an iconic label, still going strong despite the clones, snides and divs who wear it because of<br />

the name and not the look.<br />

I also like Bailo which is an Italian hunting label and it's pretty obscure over here, I've got a nice big<br />

winter coat by them and it does exactly what it says on the tin, nice and functional which is what<br />

you want in this weather up here.<br />

Whats your favourite english stadium?Why?<br />

being a lower division fan I don't get to visit many of the bigger ones, I'm looking forward to<br />

visiting the new Wembley (hopefully) with Stockport in the Play Offs, although we lost our last<br />

four visits. I like Huddersfield Town's ground it's one of the newish stadiums that has a bit of<br />

character, most of the new grounds are crap, flat-pack stadiums with no atmosphere. Another sign<br />

of the times.<br />

Your city is very closed to manchester.Has Manchester style influenced your attitude or have<br />

you got an exclusive one?<br />

I suppose it has in a way, it's hard not to beg, steal and borrow when your own town is in the<br />

shadow of a big City, we've always made the short trip there for the shops really, Oi Polloi is a great<br />

shop - it keeps a fresh attitude unlike all the others, stocking new and unheard of labels, it's the<br />

closest thing to the original casual ethos as you can get really.<br />

I think the way I dress is a very northern look too, I've always liked a practical/functional jacket,<br />

Goretex, cagoules, outdoor brands, mixed with shirts, crewneck jumpers and cords and again<br />

practical shoes or trainers, I like to dress in my own way,<br />

years ago I wanted to be decked out in the likes of CP and S.I. and look 'the part' now I'm quite<br />

happy if people don't know if I'm a 'lad' or not, that's what it's all about for me.<br />

Saturday best?<br />

All depends on the occasion, if it's a big day it wouldn't be silly to buy something new for it, it's<br />

quite important for me to dress up at the football, some people probably think that's mad, but it's<br />

as it stands...<br />

Vintage Berghaus lightning in green<br />

Barbour tartan shirt button down collar<br />

Stone Island lambswool crewneck<br />

Brown One True Saxon cords<br />

Mephisto goretex shoes<br />

Barbour 'ancient tartan' scarf<br />

OTS tweed bucket hat<br />

http://www.countylads.<strong>com</strong><br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 0


PEACEFUL HOOLIGAN<br />

Where and when was born Peaceful Hooligan?<br />

Peaceful Hooligan was born in 2003, we got our hands on some military surplus jackets, which had<br />

really cool peaked hoods and the placket was high over the face. When the hood was up it was the<br />

perfect ‘hooligan’ piece. With the military influence and what was going on the middle east at the<br />

time, the name Peaceful Hooligan stuck from there.<br />

How much time passed between the simple idea of creating a self made brand and the making<br />

of your first product?<br />

Not a lot of time to be honest, we reworked the military jacket pretty quickly and a few stores in the<br />

UK ordered them straight away. Size? Was our first really big order.<br />

Can you explain the meaning of the name and logo?<br />

Peaceful Hooligan means different things to different people. We grew up on the terraces so it will<br />

always have football associated with it for us but whether you go to the match or you’re a bit of a<br />

rogue at the weekend. There’s a Peaceful Hooligan inside everyone, the part of you that doesn’t<br />

listen to what authority tells you to do, the part of you that means you ‘make your own rules’.<br />

Which were the difficulties that you had at the beginning, and which are the current ones?


When we relaunched the website the biggest difficulty we had was spreading the word that we were<br />

back after a break of 3 years. But word of mouth and the power of the internet has meant that lads<br />

who were into it before have started buying kit off us again, plus a load of new people. Which is<br />

great. The major thing for us now is to keep the site interesting all the time. But it’s not hard work,<br />

we are really into what we do so it’s good fun designing new product and getting it out there. The<br />

great thing about the website is that we are selling directly to our customers so we get feedback<br />

straight away from the most important people, the lads wearing the kit.<br />

How responded the British and the European lads to your brand?<br />

The response from the lads in the UK was always pretty good, so we were pleased when it was still<br />

positive when we re-launched www.peacefulhooligan.co.uk earlier this year. But the interest from<br />

Europe was something we weren’t expecting so quickly to be honest. We are getting orders from all<br />

over, Russian, Sweden, Germany but I’d say the Italian lads seem to be most into PH at the<br />

moment. The scene is really strong in Italy though, so hopefully we can keep making kit that the<br />

Italian lads are into.<br />

After reading your proposal for Christmas I was curious about one thing: what would you<br />

give as a present from Peaceful Hooligan?<br />

It would have to be one of the original military jackets that got the whole thing started!<br />

What is your football team?<br />

Stoke City F.C<br />

What is your favourite English ground? And why?<br />

It would have to be the Britannia, the atmosphere is electric every game and there’s still character<br />

there. Which is something that is dying out quickly in the Premiership unfortunately.<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

Leeds Utd away always use to be an enjoyable experience, but to be honest most of the awaydays<br />

during the late 80s/early 90s proved daunting.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”?<br />

Yeah, we follow England as much as possible. Germany World Cup was a laugh, with Amsterdam<br />

only a couple of hours away but the best tournament we went to was Portugal 2004. We took a huge<br />

Peaceful Hooligan flag over with us, which was a bit of a struggle to get into the ground. It took a<br />

lot of explaining that it wasn’t advertising a firm over there but we managed to get it into all the<br />

games in the end.<br />

During the World Cup or Euros everyone tends to get behind the national side but once it’s over<br />

everyone is straight back to concentrating on the club game. Maybe the English would get behind<br />

the national side more if they performed how they should!<br />

What do you think about the Italian Casual scene?


The Italian scene seems really strong, with independent labels like Terraces and The Coolness<br />

Society doing some really cool stuff at the moment. They seem to be mixing a lot of vintage British<br />

youth culture with a European spirit that’s different to anything in the UK. I think the great thing<br />

about the internet is that within a few click you can be looking at anything in the world and seeing<br />

what different people are into. It also means that smaller brands like ourselves, and (I guess)<br />

Terraces etc can spread their word around the world without having to spend millions on<br />

advertising campaigns and marketing.<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

If there was one jacket I’d want to keep forever it would have to be the 6876 Capandula. The shape<br />

has been around for years but the fabrics and trim variations mean that every season it’s different<br />

and usually ends up in my wardrobe. I think I’m up to 6 of them at the moment.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

Music is always a hot topic in our office because there are so many different genres and bands we<br />

are into. If there had to be one in particular it would probably have to be The Clash. The Sex Pistols<br />

were the first Punk band but for me The Clash manage to embody the spirit of punk perfectly.<br />

Facebook: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/pages/Peaceful-Hooligan/90336888035<br />

Sito: http://www.peacefulhooligan.co.uk<br />

Blog: http://wearepeacefulhooligans.blogspot.<strong>com</strong>/<br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 5


PROPER MAGAZINE<br />

(classic stupid question )When was the first time you start thinking about Proper mag ?why?<br />

I've been doing a fanzine for the club I follow (Stockport County) for a couple of years now so<br />

using the experience I'd picked up doing that it was a natural progression to put something together<br />

related to my other passions.<br />

I'd always bought many of the glossy mens magazines in the UK. FHM and stuff. But I found as I<br />

got older the articles in them became less and less interesting to me. The terminology used and the<br />

fashion pages in particular gradually became alien to me. I'm not saying Propermag is the antidote<br />

to that but I think there are plenty of people like me who want to read something light hearted with<br />

a certain type of content. Football, clothes, trainers, a bit of random stuff and maybe some music.<br />

Which results did you achieve?<br />

In terms of sales, from issue 1 to issue 4 we've probably sold approaching 1000 copies in total.<br />

We've tried to improve the quality and content as we've put each new issue together but it's hard to<br />

be original. Initially we only planned for 3 issues so for issue 4 to be the most popular in terms of<br />

sales is quite rewarding. It's also nice to see so many non-UK people buying the mag.<br />

What's your favourite new label?<br />

Bailo seems to be 'flavour of the month' right now and for good reason. The exclusivity factor is<br />

high (for now) and in terms of quality and fitness for purpose it's spot on.<br />

What's your favourite football club in Italy?<br />

I don't really have a favourite. I did an interview with a Swedish blog a few months ago and they<br />

asked if I had a favourite Swedish team. The truth is we have around 100 professional clubs in<br />

England so that's more than enough for most football fans to cope with. We English tend to be more<br />

inward-looking in general too. Having said that I'm probably more clued up on Italian football than<br />

I am on Scottish and would love to take in a few games over there when I have the time and money.<br />

North or South ?<br />

An easy one. North. Both have their merits.<br />

Beer or Wine?<br />

Both give me heartburn these days so I'll say Guinness.<br />

What do you think about "italian casual scene"?<br />

I'm not really sure what that means. I think most English lads tend to immediately think of flares<br />

and banners when they think of Italian football culture. There seems to be a lot less control from the


police and authorities over there. Clothing wise the UK scene owes a lot to Italian brands and<br />

designers. It's strange though because when you see lads from mainland Europe they all seem more<br />

interested in British brands that many of us wouldn't touch!<br />

One thing in your wardrobe you could never part with?<br />

Everything has a price but having spent the last year trying to justify it's expensive purchase my<br />

Berghaus Clerk and Teller Craic jacket has to be the one thing I put above everything else.<br />

Technically it's excellent, it's limited to 250 apparently and it's also pretty distinctive. Trainer-wise<br />

there are a few recent additions which are better than the stuff I had before, most notably my adidas<br />

Brussels.<br />

Songs playlist.<br />

This could change easily if you asked me in one hour but he's a pretty eclectic mix chosen not<br />

entirely at random but all with good and bad reasons..........<br />

1. Joy Division - She's Lost Control<br />

2. Arcade Fire - No cars go<br />

3. A Certain Ratio - Shack Up<br />

4. David Bowie - Drive in Saturday<br />

5. The Courteeners - Cavorting<br />

6. Shack - High Rise Low Life<br />

7. Frankie Valli - The Night<br />

8. New Order - Bizarre Love Triangle<br />

9. 10cc - Good Morning Judge<br />

10. Happy Mondays - c*ntry Disco<br />

Saturday best?<br />

Like the previous question this could easily change if you asked again in 5 minutes. Last Saturday I<br />

wore my adidas Brussels, Levis dark 501s, Vintage Boneville Cagoul, Oi Polloi crew neck and a tshirt<br />

underneath which I think was by casualco.<br />

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FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS NUMBER 4


THE CASUAL<br />

CONNOISSEURS<br />

When was the first time you start thinking about "The Casual Connoiseur" project? why?<br />

Well we like to think we have always been creative, we started off with the countylads.<strong>com</strong> site. A<br />

terrace casuals site. It gained a worldwide following and became very busy at one point. We<br />

realised there was an interest in what we do. The Casual Connoisseur was more my brother at first.<br />

He started it off as something to go alongside it. Something where we could offer a product and it<br />

also grew very quickly in the six years since it started. We didn't want to just be an online shop<br />

though, we wanted to offer something else. An 'experience' if you will, something more to look at<br />

and a look at what we like and do, the music, film and various style pages. The forum as a<br />

<strong>com</strong>munity. We wanted it to look different and creative, people can <strong>com</strong>e on, not just to buy<br />

something, but have a good browse and hopefully enjoy the site. When we started there was a gap<br />

in the market for this and since then many have imitated us. My brother had done several jobs, he'd<br />

finished a long term job and the two after that weren't for him and he was at a place where he was<br />

fed up and wanted to do his own thing. Which in the begining was very tough as the whole thing<br />

was built up from and with nothing. No investment or anything like that as we didn't have it. Over<br />

time and with three of us involved it became a full time buisness for him. It can be stressful and<br />

frustrating at times but on the whole it's a joy and beats working for 'the man' in a job you don't<br />

really care for.<br />

Which were the difficulties that you had at the beginning, and which are the current ones?<br />

In the begining as mentioned above we were starting out with nothing, my brother was still working<br />

when he first started but after a year or so of hard work was able to concentrate on this. The brand<br />

was always self sufficient, self funding so initially it required some hard work to get it going.<br />

Currently we're in a good place, but the hard part now is the brand progression, we have a million<br />

ideas of what we want, sometimes getting some ideas realised is harder than you first envisage and<br />

can be frustrating. The t-shirts we have cornered and they are great success, headwear we've got<br />

covered too pretty much, our winter bobble hats we've made our own and gained a cult following.<br />

Our Beat a Storm cagoules were a huge success too. What we are doing now is progression into<br />

more clothing options, shirts and at the design stage of hopefully getting a winter parka produced.<br />

Also like with the t-shirts - Collaborations is something we want to continue with. The tee collabs<br />

have been great. We want to do the same with other brands and that is something we're looking<br />

into. We are a small operation so we take our time. Our ethos remains though, to offer something<br />

different and at an affordable price.<br />

Like you say in your 'inspirations' section "a picture tells a thousand words". David Bowie,<br />

the 8o's casuals, Shane Meadows' movies and vintage Adidas collections ... it's easy for us to<br />

understand why those pics are there. But what about the Sopranos, "One Flew Over the<br />

Cuckoo's Nest", Vincent Gallo? ... In which way these things inspired you?


Well, I think we're a little different from the norm, we're kind of out there, I think film, music and<br />

poluar culture plays a huge part in our make up. I love classic films, especially from the US, UK<br />

and European films and the 70's - which to me was a golden era. I'm still discovering films from<br />

years ago now, and one or two never fail to blow me away, I think you can't NOT be inspired by<br />

cinema from that period. The classic style, classic looks, atmosphere, dialogue and sountracks. Lots<br />

of people have heroes in sport and music, I look up to a lot of actors. The obvious ones would be<br />

McQueen, Newman and Pacino. But I prefer the more rebellious ones Jack Nicholson, De Niro,<br />

Dennis Hopper and some out there, alternative ones like Bill Murray and Vincent Gallo. All are<br />

cool as fuck to us, hugely iconic and inspirational, nothing really relates to casual culture, but that<br />

rebellious streak is there in most of them. Film is a huge passion of ours and it shows. We make no<br />

apologies for that either.<br />

How responded the British and the European lads to your brand?<br />

We have a fantastic response worldwide, we have a loyal bunch who get what we do over here in<br />

England, and we sell to Spain, Germany, Italy, Russia, and Scandinavia every week, as far as North<br />

and South America, Australia, the Far East and even places like Columbia and Peru. It's really good<br />

to be honest, it's what makes it all worthwhile, it's what makes us tick.<br />

A <strong>com</strong>mon opinion says that you're the best in spreading and developing the casual culture:<br />

how does it feel to know that?<br />

It's an honour really, but I'd also add that we have ever so slightly shifted from an obvious 'casual'<br />

angle over the last few years, as have many others around us. Lot's of us true and into the casual<br />

culture scene have moved on somewhat and lot's of new<strong>com</strong>ers and people who aren't/weren't into<br />

it have spoilt it and taken it into the mainstream here. I guess that's called progression, it's where we<br />

came from and always plays a part, but perhaps we are a grown up version of where we started six<br />

years ago, or at least it's where we are heading.<br />

What is your football team?<br />

I'm a Stockport County fan, I say that with a twinge of embarrassment these days, unfortunately! I'll<br />

always support my team, my home town team, unlike so many who support Manchester United (6<br />

miles away) and Manchester City (7 miles away) our town is blighted by 'armchair' football fans,<br />

geography was never kind to us! We have arguably the most famous club in world football and now<br />

the richest club right on our doorstep. We are currently the worst team in the football league, I've<br />

been a regular fan for over twenty years, seen many great days, three promotions, five Wembley<br />

visits, many cup upsets and highlights, we marginally missed out on the Play Offs for the<br />

Premiership in 1998. I've also seen us relegated several times and over the last few years. There's<br />

been plenty of low points, administration, near liquidation, shafted by our rugby union landlords<br />

(Sale Sharks) who stole our ground. To top it all off now we're heading out of the football league<br />

for the first time in our 128 year history. We're one of the early members too spending 106 years in<br />

the league since it formed. I'm fucking fed up, as you can imagine. I hope we will be back one day.<br />

What is your favorite English ground? And why?<br />

Tough question, I've visited a lot of grounds but mainly lower division ones. From the<br />

Championship to League Two and the Blue Square Premier, a lot of the modern day stadiums are<br />

crap, they're like something made from lego. I'd always prefer the older stadiums with crumbling<br />

terraces and toilets where you just piss on a wall, sadly they are being replaced at an alarming rate.<br />

One of the better modern stadiums I've been to several times is Huddersfield Town's, when it was


uilt it won awards, it's like a spaceship in an old mill town, built into a valley but it works.<br />

Everton's is a good old ground with a great atmosphere too, not many left in the Premiership now,<br />

as are Hillsborough and Elland Road. Newcastle's is a big ground in a great location. I like Craven<br />

Cottage home of Fulham too, a real ground with character, we haven't played there since the<br />

mid/late 90's. Arsenal's new ground is a good example of a nice ground done well, but I'd imagine<br />

Highbury would have been great. I saw Juventus play AC Milan at Old Trafford in the European<br />

Cup Final, it was a boring match but I got in for free which was good, great atmosphere.<br />

Worst would have to be Brighton, but they're moving to a new one soon, which looks like they've<br />

done a great job. Also any of the crap out of town flat-pack grounds like Shrewsbury Town and<br />

Darlington, horrible! Blackpool would be another too, shit ground in a shithole and not just because<br />

I was beaten up there either!<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

Stoke City's Victoria Ground (now defunct) in 1996-7, we knocked them out of the FA Cup in the<br />

fourth round. This was a very foggy night. We scored early then got hammered for 85 minutes as<br />

Stoke tried to snatch an equaliser. Only somehow for us to then score a second and confirm the win<br />

very late on! At that time we had a real rivalry with them in the early 90s. We are a world apart<br />

now, but it was a nervy walk back to the station as a young pup of seventeen and a real eye opener.<br />

There was a police escort, but every time it broke up due to a bus stop or parked cars they came<br />

over and dived into us throwing kicks and punches. Walking back with the sole aim of not getting<br />

thumped in the back of the head seemed like a job done. However, the local police told us (with<br />

grins on their faces) that all trains back had been cancelled, cue everyone jumping in taxis and<br />

trying to hitch a lift, right as Stoke's mob were growling from across the road, I only had about two<br />

quid on me and jumped in a taxi with my brother and two strange fellow supporters to Crewe<br />

railway station, it was about fourteen pounds and I didn't let on I didn't have enough cash as I just<br />

wanted to get out of there! I always remember Fleetwood Mac's 'Everywhere' and KC and the<br />

Sunshine Band's 'Give it Up' were on the radio in the taxi, the latter was adapted as a terrace chant<br />

about 'going up' which brought a smile.<br />

Manchester City's old Maine Road was a hairy experience, especially in the dark having just beaten<br />

them! One that stuck out to me was Luton, not a nice place, in fact a horrible shithole, going there<br />

with a very small group in the dark walking through subways where they were aiming to pick us<br />

off, probably the only time I was glad of Greater Manchester Police's presence. A lot of the time we<br />

travelled in large numbers and never really had much to worry about.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever place the England team before your<br />

club in your "scale of values"?<br />

I was always a club before Country type of fan, and I still am. The national team always let you<br />

down, the last World Cup was a joke, a bunch of overpaid, overhyped arrogant twats like Rooney<br />

and Gerrard mean nothing to me, it's a million miles away from the real football I grew up with. I've<br />

not been that involved on the international scene, but it's always been well supported with lads from<br />

our place, going back to the late 70's we always had a presence at England away. When the new<br />

Wembley was being built and they played at Old Trafford I went to the games there, against Wales<br />

and Northern Ireland - which we (Stockport) had about two hundred out for, and the local police<br />

told us we had the best numbers out that day, no joke. There was a brief clash with Man United on<br />

the border of Salford as we unintentionally ended up in a pub across the road from a pub full of<br />

them. It was interesting, edgy.<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?


Whilst there's plenty of what would be regarded as the 'classics' - the plain white tee, the grey<br />

sweatshirt, selvedge denims, the chambray shirt, or checked button down. I'd say overall, over the<br />

years, the one constant has got to be Clarks shoes, (even above trainers for me personally) they've<br />

been on my feet for twenty years, preferably suede on a crepe sole, and maybe a Barbour wax jacket<br />

or a waterproof, functional hooded jacket is a given in the rainy north of England. Some nice<br />

colourful socks too for me, Burlingtons.<br />

Guarda, ci sono un molte cose che potrei elencarti tra felpe o tshirt o camicie; diciamo che, dopo<br />

tutti questi anni, ti posso dire che le Clarks sono per me uniche (anche sopra le trainers), le indosso<br />

da venti anni e più! Potrei aggiungere un impermeabile o una cerata Barbour molto funzionali nella<br />

piovosa Inghilterra settentrionale. Ah, anche calzini Burlington!!!<br />

What's your favourite new label?<br />

None are strictly new, but Engineered Garments from New York is a personal favourite, WWM too,<br />

Heritage Research is cool, really nice guys behind it. see also Garbstore, Norse Projects is a good<br />

one too. 'Vintage' could be deemed my overall favourite though.<br />

Non necessariamente "nuova" ma Engineered Garments from New York è ra le mie favorite così<br />

<strong>com</strong>e WWM o Heritage Research; mi piace anche Garbstore o Norse Projects... diciamo che il<br />

vintage è quello che preferisco.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

Well, it's a question I find hard to answer, it would change the next time you asked me, at this<br />

moment in time I'm on the PC with Spotify on, I've got The Fall, The Stones, The The , Frank<br />

Zappa and a real mixed bag on, Northern Soul, blues, psychadelic stuff, guitar music! i really don't<br />

have a specific favourite band or song. All about the mood.<br />

Saturday’s Best?<br />

This Saturday I'll be going out for ale a little smarter in an Albam Foreman jacket, a 6876 pinstripe<br />

(prison shirt) some dark denim probably Garbstore or Edwin and some Clarks Desert Khan. Today<br />

I've been photographing and wearing 6876's Capandula jacket, definitely a favourite of my brother's<br />

and I.<br />

Sito internet: http://www.casualco.<strong>com</strong><br />

Facebook: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/weareconnoisseur?v=box_3<br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 10


THE NORTHERN BOYS<br />

CLUB<br />

Where and when was born "the northern boys club"?<br />

Started in September 2008 in Manchester. I was working for LIFE at the time, which is part of the<br />

Flannels Group, selling Stone Island, CP Company, Prada Sport, Armani Jeans, One True Saxon<br />

etc. This was a large influence in wanting to start something myself.<br />

Can you explain the meaning of the name ?<br />

'The Northern Boys Club' and what it stands for is a way a of living and, to the people who know, a<br />

lot more than just clothing. We try to encapsulate the three essential pillars of male life - football,<br />

music and good clothes.<br />

Which were the difficulties that you had at the beginning, and which are the current ones?<br />

There were obviously financial issues and a personal learning curve to go through but the main<br />

difficulty I encountered when starting out was getting retailers to take brand seriously. It's hard for<br />

any new brand to get into good shops and I was only interested in having The Northern Boys Club<br />

in good independent stockists, sat with the right brands around it and that has always been<br />

important.<br />

which are your main inspirations?<br />

The key elements that influence how we do things in everything that we produce range from Sir<br />

Winston Churchill quotes to rainy football away games. We try and do things properly and go about<br />

our business like modern gentlemen - there are certain values that are lost in today's society and<br />

whilst we're not trying to change the world, we think people appreciate it. Lots of things influence<br />

the designs for the t-shirts and now the jackets, shirts etc in the 'Blue' range. Particular cultures such<br />

as the '60s Mod Scene' and '80s/90s Terrace Culture' have a massive part in them. Certain people<br />

influence elements of the designs too. Steven P Morrissey, Brian Clough, Shaun W. Ryder.<br />

what do u speak in your fanzine?<br />

I love old football fanzines and how they were put together. The fanzine is our little nod to the<br />

whole romance behind the history of the football fanzine. We talk about football, music and men's<br />

fashion. There's some exciting changes <strong>com</strong>ing for the fanzine though so watch this space on that.<br />

do u sell only on internet or also in shops? which ones?<br />

When I started the out I didn't have a website and only dealt with shops. After about three months I<br />

launched the website and know whilst selling online we currently have about twenty shops around


the North of England such as Ran - Manchester, Hip - Leeds, Weavers Door - Liverpool, Union -<br />

Newcastle. Our stockist list is growing all the time and we've had interest from several countries<br />

outside the UK including Holland, Norway, Italy and Australia so we may expand there soon.<br />

How responded the British and the European lads to your brand?<br />

In the early days of the brand it was mainly the football lads who were getting on it and wearing the<br />

t-shirts to the match. But due to the nature of the designs, we now appeal to a broad spectrum of<br />

blokes. Word of mouth has been our biggest friend since we started and it's funny how we noticed<br />

certain areas finding out about the brand once it was on a few lads at certain football grounds.<br />

What is your football team?<br />

I was born in Oldham and am a proud Oldham Athletic fan. It's not much fun sometimes though...<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

I remember going to Wrexham away when I was about fourteen on the coach and seeing some<br />

pretty serious stuff in the car park after the game. That felt pretty dangerous at the time anyway, I'd<br />

not even been to many away games at that point though.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”?<br />

I've been to quite a few England home games but haven't actually ever been away with them. I love<br />

watching England though and don't understand people who say they "Don't support their national<br />

team". Being an Oldham fan, there is an excellent chance I might never get to see us win anything<br />

major, so I can't really answer the question, 'Would I rather see my team win the league or England<br />

win the World Cup?' etc, so whilst I wouldn't say I favour either, I'm desperate for Oldham to have<br />

some success.
<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

I'm a big jacket person. I'd take jackets over trainers anyday. I've managed to get a good collection<br />

together too over the past few years - working for Flannels helped with their staff discount! I've<br />

actually been wearing one of our jackets none stop for the last few months though - the Columbia<br />

jacket in navy.
<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

Like most people, my favourite band changes regularly, today though, it's The Smiths - Hand In<br />

Glove. There's a new band from Liverpool though that I've been listening to loads lately, they're<br />

called 'The Loud', they sound like Black Rebel Motorcycle Club crossed with T-Rex crossed with<br />

David Bowie, mega!<br />

How do u choose the books and cd music to sell in your site?<br />

The books and music section is a new thing that we'll grow over the <strong>com</strong>ing months. The choices<br />

however in the book section are a selection of some my favourite books (although I don't read as


much as I probably should) and I'm going through a phase of listening to 50s, 60s Soul and R&B<br />

and I managed to pick up some bootlegs for the site.<br />

what do u think about roman fans banner "the northern boys club"?<br />

The <strong>Roma</strong> fans creating the banner has easily been my proudest moment since starting The<br />

Northern Boys Club. I nearly dropped my laptop when I received an email with it attached! It<br />

happened after the brand had only been going for a few months too which was a fantastic surprise.<br />

Forza Italia!<br />

FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/pages/The-Northern-Boys-Club/141082222592511<br />

SITO: http://www.thenorthernboysclub.<strong>com</strong><br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 13<br />

TERRACE ORIGINALS<br />

When was the first time you start thinking about "terrace originals" project? Why?<br />

We started the business in a local boozer one day, we wanted to do something different to what was<br />

already available and make it more personal to the lads. We wanted to make it more exclusive so<br />

we decided to just make 50 of each design so not every tom dick and harry was wearing them. Also<br />

we choose a printing method that no other <strong>com</strong>pany was using at that time and only a handful use<br />

now.<br />

Which were the difficulties that you had at the beginning, and which are the current ones?


We really had no difficulties starting the business, all the lads had grown up involved in the casual<br />

movement and the rave scene or was around lads involved in it, between us we had a graphic<br />

designer a website deigner and a delboy who already had a business selling clothing. So it all came<br />

together fast and really well.<br />

Which period about terraces do u prefer and why? ('70, '80, rave period, '90 etc)<br />

We all prefer the late 80s early 90s I think the fashion and music at the time was bang on, everyones<br />

got a period in their lives they look back on with a smaile on their face, this was ours<br />

How do u choose the firms to put on your t-shirt?<br />

When we first started we chose local firms whos lads we knew from then it just spread and we kept<br />

getting asked to do tops for other firms around the uk<br />

How responded the British and the European lads to your brand?<br />

We been going since November now and the british lads have really got behind our brand, weve<br />

had a load of orders and messages from lads all over Europe and our next move is to take the brand<br />

to germany, italy, Russia, scandanavia, Holland etc<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

Russia away, about 5 of us got surrounded by 30-40 russian lads, took a few kicks from there<br />

younger lads but some of there older lads toom hold of them and let us on our way. Got a lot of<br />

respect for them and they showed some old school values they English fans don’t get everywhere.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”?<br />

For smaller firms from lower leagues national games have always been the place to be, specially<br />

away. Id always put my national team above my club if it came down to someone putting a gun to<br />

my head.<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

A clean pair of adidas trainers<br />

What's your favourite Italian label?Why?<br />

I know its had its day now but id have to say stone island, loved it in the early 90s, still got loads in<br />

my wardrobe that I never wear anymore. The jackets and jumpers at the time was spot on, ill always<br />

have a soft spot for it<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

Stone roses - Sally Cinnamon , great band from the madchester baggy scene of the late 80s early<br />

90s.<br />

Saturday's best?


Changes all the time and im a believer in wearing what you want not what everyone else is wearing,<br />

if that happens to be an obscure brand you just found or a well known brand, go with what looks<br />

good<br />

FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/profile.php?id=100001069876267<br />

SITO: http://www.terraceoriginals.<strong>com</strong>/<br />

FOR MORE PICS STYLE WARS <strong>ISSUE</strong> 15<br />

EDDY BRIMSON<br />

When was the first time you start to thinking to write books about football and "hooligans"?<br />

Just before the Euro '96 tournament in England. Sky TV was taking over and they were making out<br />

that football violence no longer existed. We wanted to explain that it was still happening but away<br />

from the stadiums and very organised.<br />

What is your book that has sold more?<br />

The mostpopular book has been 'Everywhere We Go' closely followed by the novel, 'Hooligan'.<br />

What is your next project? a little preview...<br />

I have started writing again but we shall see what happens. I am now a professional <strong>com</strong>edian so<br />

my time is mostly spent travelling around the world on that.<br />

How many of your characters are inspired by real people? "Mozzer" for example...<br />

All the characters are based on friends but not all were involved in football.


Some of your books has never been translated into Italian, have we a chance in the future?<br />

I am not too sure on that. I'll have to ask the publishers.<br />

It's quite a <strong>com</strong>mon opinion that violence is spreading again because many lads have now<br />

grown up kids to look after themselves and are divorced. do you agree with that?<br />

Yes I do. Football violence is up the up. I also think the economic situation has an effect. People see<br />

the money that players earn and feel angry when they show no passion.<br />

What's your football team?<br />

Watford FC. I also watch a lot of lower league football now. Hemel Hempstead Town FC. It is<br />

where I was born.<br />

What is your favorite English ground? And why?<br />

That's a tough one. I like the old grounds more than the new ones. Everton used to be great.<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you've been to?<br />

Millwall, at both the old and New Den. West Ham was always a worry as well<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”?<br />

Yes. I've written two books about following England, at France '98 and Euro 2000 in Holland and<br />

Belguim. However, once they got Sven in I stopped. it makes a joke of English football to have an<br />

overseas coach. These days the players just don't care. they're wankers the lot of them. They have<br />

no idea what fans go through to follow their country. John Terry, what a total prick. He has already<br />

ruined our chances at Euro 2012 with this race row, arseholes. And Rooney ... fucking hell. An<br />

idiot.<br />

Do u prefer the north or the south of England? and why?<br />

The south. The north is grim.<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

Not really, style changes.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

Best band: The Smiths ... Best Song: Public Image by PIL


80s Casuals<br />

1: When was the first time you start thinking about "80 casuals" project?why?<br />

At the time I was a buyer in top end Men's fashion retail and was disillusioned with the quality,<br />

availability and looks starting to <strong>com</strong>e through in the post 90s. The football terraces had pretty<br />

much dominated the UK look through the 80s and 90s, but a new look was starting to <strong>com</strong>e through<br />

which we referred to as the 'fun boy or parrot head', this wasn't for me.<br />

In hindsight I'm glad this happened now, as it weeded out the plastics and hangers on....by this I<br />

mean we used to get gangs of lads <strong>com</strong>ing in to the store where I worked, looking like they had just<br />

walked through the turn styles yet they weren't even match going lads. Most of them turned to bed<br />

head hair and tight Lyle & Scott tops, which was a blessing in disguise really.<br />

The other thing that really made me dis heartened, was the change in countries of origin and yet the<br />

prices remained high. When your selling something to someone that is manufactured in say Italy or<br />

German, people appreciate it won't be cheap as it's a wealthy country with a good standard of living<br />

and high production costs. Now when you start to offer them the same goods made in say China,<br />

people aren't daft and know it's costs much less to produce there, the quality is still fine, but why is<br />

it still so expensive? This is something that didn't sit well with me as I started to feel the customers<br />

were being ripped off somewhere along the line.<br />

Another one of my bug bears is the easy with which you can obtain so called 'exclusive' products<br />

these days. I grew up in an era when you had to graft and travel to find something to get one up on<br />

your mates, but by the new millennium lads were all wearing the same £600 coats to the match.<br />

So these three factors led to me wanting to go against the grain and start wearing clothes from an<br />

era when it really meant something to me. I have always looked after my gear, so I delved into the<br />

attic round my mum's and started to dabble on Ebay for old Fila, Armani and Adidas<br />

ect. I started to get a few <strong>com</strong>pliments off some older lads on my alternative dress sense, but I


would always be reminded I could get away with it as I'm small and slightly built. So I came up<br />

with the idea of printing some t shirts with reminders of this golden age for lads who felt the same,<br />

but weren't so <strong>com</strong>fortable bouncing round in a green Fila Bj.<br />

So it just went from there really, a year or so later I met my now long term business partner Dave<br />

Hewitson, who felt exactly as I did and just happened to be a printer! Did we expect to <strong>com</strong>e as far<br />

as we have? no not in a million, but we love doing what we do and although we have had to adapt<br />

and change our product along the way, we still get such a buzz to see someone at the game in a bit<br />

of our kit.<br />

2: Which were the difficulties that you had at the beginning, and which are the current ones?<br />

Our first tee's were produced by a <strong>com</strong>pany in Manchester and the minimums were very high! The<br />

ink colours were also very limited. This men't I had to sell far too many of my first four designs<br />

before I could move on with enough money to do the next batch. It was a frustrating vicious circle<br />

until I was lucky enough to meet Dave and control our own printing with much more advanced<br />

techniques.<br />

Now we are more well establish but people expect more from us each season. We have a lot of<br />

other great similar small brands that have <strong>com</strong>e through which pushes us even harder. Minimums<br />

are still higher than we would like them to be with some factories as we have grown into a full<br />

blown clothing line, so often we have to pay a higher price to have smaller quantities.<br />

3: did you have any problems,or matters with another brands like adidas for yours t-shirts?<br />

At first adidas were fine with us and turned a blind eye as we were re acquainting many lads with<br />

their love for the three stripes. Dave was even invited to the opening of the Liverpool adidas<br />

originals store and asked to sign a pair of adidas Trimm Trab that still sit in a glass case there today.<br />

Then we got too big for someones liking and they put a stop to our trainer inspired tee's. We knew<br />

this would happen in the end or that we would at least have to collaborate with them on the tee's,<br />

which would have been an honor. What did leave a bitter taste however, was adidas tee's then<br />

appearing inspired by our brands trainer tee's, without so much as an acknowledgment or a thank<br />

you. We also produced a book which heavily featured their back catalog. Strangely since then they<br />

seem to have re discovered their connection with the football terraces and re issued many of the<br />

models we featured.<br />

We once got a letter from Nike but as our passion for their brand is much much smaller, we really<br />

weren't arsed.<br />

4: What is your creation you’re most attached to?<br />

Currently it would be our Sumitt smock from the Off Peak collection of last Winter, although I<br />

would never part with my one of only 60 pink Fila Terrindas that were made for us to celebrate the<br />

brands centenary.<br />

5: can you speak about your partneship? like with mentalità ultras/The coolness society , fila<br />

etc...<br />

For people to contact us to enter into a joint venture with our brand is always an honor. That said


we only like to work with brands and stores where we have some <strong>com</strong>mon ground or a connection<br />

from the past. The MU crew like me and Dave, live and breath football.... it's our way of life as it is<br />

for our friends. It's the same with The Coolness Society, they are about laid back cool, the next big<br />

look and wanting to stand out from the mob. Fila was the ultimate collaboration for us as it was an<br />

ultimate object of desire at the peak of the casual movement. It's something that has been and gone<br />

for us now, but to have our logo sit next to the might 'F' is unforgettable!<br />

As our brand grows most of our time and effort goes into developing the clothing. However we are<br />

still always in discussions with new partners as illustrious as New Balance and Trainerspotter.<br />

6: explicate us paninari t-shirt, why?<br />

The Paninaro had a huge influence on the UK terrace look in the mid 80s. Brands such as Pop 84,<br />

Ciao, Ball, Armani and Best Company were massive over here then. We knew where it originate<br />

from through the media and tributes such as 'Paninaro' by the Pet Shop Boys. There has always<br />

been a two way obsession between the British and Italian cultures and dress sense, our tee shirt<br />

mealy paid tribute to this.<br />

7: Which were the difficulties with "80 casuals" book?<br />

God that book became our life for three bloody years! It was a labour of love which involved a lot<br />

of travel for photo shoots, such as waiting to get a cheap flight to Turin just to photograph some<br />

trainers named after the city in an underpass to make it more authentic. Every time Dave would say<br />

'right are we ready to go to print?' I would think of something we had missed and spend months<br />

trying to source it so we covered as many iconic brands and items as possible. The project was only<br />

supposed to be one year, but it ended up being three! It was a hugely important era that had only<br />

been cover in words and memories, but a picture speaks a thousand words as they say.<br />

8: Is there a city that you get more orders in particular?<br />

We are very strong in the North of England as this is where we are from and have a strong bond<br />

with a lot of the lads there. Scotland and Stoke are absolutely huge for us as they are so passionate<br />

about the football casual scene there.<br />

9: What is your football team?<br />

I follow a lowly English team called Tranmere Rovers home and away as that's where I'm from. It's<br />

not about the glory, it's about my friends and the camaraderie we share.<br />

10: Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before<br />

your club in your “scale of values”?<br />

I'm half Italian and that's were my national loyalties lie. I saw the azzurri win in 82 and I have never<br />

watched England in my life. I went to Rome for the 2006 final and that night will live with me<br />

forever.<br />

11: What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

I've been beaten black and blue at Huddersfield and Aston Villa but sometimes the smallest back<br />

water no mark towns can be the worst to get caught away from the crowd.


12: What is your favorite English ground? And why?<br />

Currently Wy<strong>com</strong>be Wanderers as it has the most amazing pub with strippers on all day just a mile<br />

from the ground, we don't bother going to the match at that one.<br />

13: u said us "I'm a huge fan of Italian football...", what do u like of our football?<br />

The English grounds have no atmosphere anymore. Our game has been stolen from us and sold to<br />

the middle classes. We still go in the hope that one day the money will dry up and we can get our<br />

game back to how it used to be. In Italy the game is still for the working classes, entrance is cheap<br />

and the way the fans or 'ultras' are orchestrated is incredible to watch. I love the style, colour and<br />

passion of Italian football.<br />

14: Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

Not really as I try to wear as many different outfits as possible to the match. I spend all my time<br />

buying and selling whilst trying to convince my wife that I really do need that many coats! I do<br />

have a thing about rare Belstaff jackets though.<br />

15: What is the band that you like the most, and your favorite song?<br />

I love 'Insight' by Joy Division. It's on the sound track to the wonderful ' Awaydays' and just<br />

captures the mood of a fantastic era.<br />

Kind regards,<br />

Jay Montessori.<br />

Sito: http://www.80scasuals.co.uk/index.html<br />

Facebook: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/pages/Eighties-Casuals/345667788783278


ANNIS ABRAHAM JNR<br />

How did you feel the first time you went to the ground(stadium)? What year was it?<br />

1972 Ninian Park Cardiff v Bolton, just loved the hostile atmosphere, Ninian Park use to have.<br />

describe your worst feeling at a game.<br />

1978 getting smashed at Upton Park, Cardiff fans including myself were attacked before/during and<br />

after the game, we had no chance.<br />

1Getting relegated on about 7 different occasions, leaving Ninian Park for the last time v Ipswich 3<br />

years ago and losing 3 nil was the nail in the coffin.<br />

when was born cardiff soul crew? why this name?<br />

1982/83 Season at Sheffield Utd away. Because at the time those were the Soul Years in<br />

fashion/music.<br />

who are your biggest rivals team-wise?<br />

Leeds/Bristol C<br />

who are your biggest rivals fan-wise?<br />

Bristol C/Swansea/Millwall/Chelsea and Newport.<br />

What is your favorite Great Britain ground? And why?<br />

I loved the old grounds, not many left, so it has to be Upton Park Westham. But Ninian P ark<br />

Cardiff will always be mine.<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to?<br />

1978 getting smashed at Upton Park, Cardiff fans including myself were attacked before/during and<br />

after the game, we had no chance, Westham invaded our end and even got on our coaches after the<br />

game fighting with us, the whole true story is in my latest book " Annis My Story ". including the<br />

day the Soul Crew was born.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the Galles team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”?<br />

Yes all over the World. My club Cardiff will always <strong>com</strong>e first.<br />

what do u not like of modern football?<br />

The new happy clappers/all seater stadiums.<br />

When was the first time you start thinking to write books? why?


2007. I I was in Majorca and a Kilmarnock fan kept looking at me, I asked him was everything ok<br />

and he said its you Annis of the Panorama programme etc, His family and mine spent the week<br />

chatting, when I got home, he kept texting/ringing me saying your stories are so interesting you<br />

should write a book, he never gave up. Since then I have written 7 books.<br />

what are the problems of writing a book about cardiff supporters?<br />

No problems, because I am honest about when we have been done and I believe in the truth.<br />

What is your book that has sold more?<br />

Diary of the Soul Crew ' 2 ' sold over 30,000 copies.<br />

what's your favourite terrace faschion? What's your favourite italian label?<br />

Fila/Lacoste. Armani without a doubt.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite song?<br />

Dexy's Midnight Runners, ' Gino '. from the 80's.<br />

My 7 books. Diary of the Real Soul Crew. Diary of the Soul Crew '2'. From Shattered.<br />

DReams to Wembley Way. Cardiff City fans through the years. Chronicles of the Soul Crew.<br />

The Rise and Fall of the Cardiff city Valley Rams. Annis My Story.<br />

http://www.annisabraham.co.uk<br />

Kind Regards<br />

Annis Abraham Jnr (heavenly shirt)


PAOLO HEWITT<br />

When was the first time you start to thinking to write books?<br />

When I was fourteen years old.<br />

What is your book that has sold more?<br />

Oasis Getting High, Steve Marriott and The Looked After Kid<br />

What is your next project? a little preview...<br />

Hopefully, a Ronnie Lane biography. Hopefully.<br />

Some of your books has never been translated into Italian, have we a chance in the future?<br />

Ask the Italian book publishers!<br />

What do u think about english mods movement now? and european mods movement?<br />

I don't.<br />

What are the differences and similarities between mods and casuals?<br />

They are both obsessed with clothes. Casuals have different musical tastes.<br />

Do you think that the modern casuals are still connected with the crime?<br />

I never thought they were connected with crime.<br />

What's your football team?<br />

Tottenham Hotspur<br />

Have you ever followed the national team?<br />

My mother was Italian, I never knew my father so I support.........Italia!<br />

Do u prefer the north or the south of england? and why?<br />

I have no preference.<br />

Do u prefer vespa or lambretta?and why?<br />

Vespa - Better shapes and colours. Plus pure Italiano!


What are the labels of the past and the present that you prefer?<br />

Theer are so many - but Fred Perry and Baracuta spring to mind<br />

What is your favourite italian label?<br />

Mio Zia Gilda's Lavenderia label in Sorrento<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

Pair of old Levi Sta-prest trousers<br />

What do u think about Quadrophenia movie? are there others good movie about mods?<br />

I like Phil Daniel's in the film a lot, his acting is tremendous - but I dislike the clothes and music<br />

What was the best nightclub of england and why? (present and past)<br />

The Trip The Astoria London 1988 - 1990 - Acid house at its finest.<br />

Vinyl, cd or mp3?<br />

Vinyl<br />

What is the most beautiful concert you saw? describe it<br />

Brian Wilson performing the album Pet Sounds in London. An hour of amazing Beach Boys music<br />

followed by one of the greatest albums ever. Perfect.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favourite songs?<br />

Changes every day but today it is The Staple Singers and If You Are Ready (Come Go With Me)<br />

Facebook: http://www.facebook.<strong>com</strong>/paolo.hewitt.3<br />

Blog: http://paolohewitt.blogspot.it/


IAN HOUGH<br />

How did you feel the first time you went to the ground(stadium)? What year and match was<br />

it?<br />

I went to Old Trafford several times before I ever went into a match. My family lived close to the<br />

ground and I would go with my cousins. I loved seeing the cantilever at the corner as you walked<br />

round to Warwick Road. It was like a futuristic marvel to me. I was almost terrified of seeing it the<br />

first time, as if it was some kind of miracle. I even used to have dreams about it, and funnily enough<br />

I saw it very much as it is today, with escalators inside. Finally, I went into a game against<br />

Middlesbrough in 1978. I was 12 years old, which is quite old. United won 3-2, and I spent most of<br />

the match just peering towards the Stretford End to my right. It was a sunny day, and the Stretford<br />

End was shrouded in a silhouetted haze, under the old roof. My uncle Geoff took me, and we went<br />

in United Road Paddock, which was to be<strong>com</strong>e a main section the boys a couple of years later. I<br />

actually went to a Manchester City game before United, because a neighbour took me who was a<br />

blue. I knew it was inferior. The layout of the ground, the style of crush barriers and railings, the<br />

roofs. None of it looked as solid or good quality as my beloved Old Trafford.<br />

Who are your biggest rivals fan-wise? do you remember when & how everything started?<br />

The biggest rivalry changes as our most hated enemies rise and fall in the footballing totem. The<br />

main rivals, most United fans would agree, are Liverpool, Leeds and City. Historically, Liverpool<br />

have always been the biggest rivals, but now City have bought a couple of trophies the hatred has<br />

reared its head inside Manchester. I think the Liverpool rivalry was most intense because the two<br />

cities were the only ones sporting the casual wear for a few years, before the rest of Britain caught<br />

on. That made it better, because Liverpool fans thought they were the only ones who had a clue<br />

about the styles. How wrong they were! I remember playing Liverpool in ’79 and noticing that<br />

some of them were what we called “Perries”, and when we played them in 1980 they were all<br />

Perries. Thousands of boys, all decked out in Adidas Stan Smith and Lois jeans. It signalled a<br />

fashion race that led to massive battles between the stadiums and the train stations. I don’t think<br />

we’ll ever have anything like that again. Even if the size of the mobs increased again, the clothes<br />

are over 30 years old, so the novelty wouldn’t be the same. It was the most exciting era in football<br />

in my opinion.<br />

What is the most dangerous away match that you’ve been to? describe it...<br />

Everton, mainly because of the blades. The years from 1980 to 1983 seemed the worst to me. It was<br />

a long walk from Lime Street Station to Goodison Park, and you would be up against both Everton<br />

and Liverpool’s firms. The scousers were among the best-organized because they all knew each<br />

other so well. They’d split into very tidy little groups of about 40 lads, and there would be a lot of<br />

these different groups tag-teaming us all the way up Scotland Road. The police just seemed to melt<br />

away and leave us to it, which was fine if you were in a good mob but a nightmare if chaos had<br />

taken over. Finally, as you approached the ground the different scouse mobs would join up as one<br />

and just hammer us from all sides, throwing bricks, trying to slash people, etc. Even if you were in a<br />

police escort everything would all go to shit once you reached the junction near Stanley Park, and<br />

people would scatter, panicking, off in different directions. Luckily I usually seemed to be


surrounded by pretty handy lads and we managed to keep it together, but I remember nearly being<br />

stabbed or slashed a couple of times. At times like that, when you’ve been separated from the main<br />

crew, all you can do is run for your life. Those scousers absolutely fucking hated us, and they<br />

showed no mercy whatsoever.<br />

I remember one year (which I mention in the book) when the police met us at Lime Street and put<br />

us on buses to Goodison. The bus we were on was <strong>com</strong>pletely smashed up; windows kicked out,<br />

chairs wrecked and cushions thrown out of the broken windows, support bars kicked until they were<br />

bent and twisted. They even smashed holes through from the upper deck down to the lower and<br />

there was insulation hanging down everywhere. When we arrived near Goodison, they parked the<br />

bus as far away from the ground as possible and they let us off a couple at a time. It was a bit of a<br />

walk to the ground but somehow me and my mate Kenny must have had guardian angels on our<br />

shoulders because we almost made it the whole way. Right near the ground a gang of scousers<br />

sussed us and one of them was a cutter. That last fifty yards was pure running for our lives, with the<br />

Everton lads hissing evilly about Stanley knives, breathing down our necks.<br />

What do u not like of modern football?<br />

The sanitation of the overall experience. People cannot bring certain banners into stadiums, and<br />

they can’t stand up and voice their passion or they are ejected by the stewards. The clubs are only<br />

interested in “customers” rather than real supporters. It’s be<strong>com</strong>e a 100% business. In one respect<br />

you can’t blame the clubs; there was a huge untapped revenue stream there and they owned the<br />

trademark, so why not? But they’ve gone too far by alienating the true fans and catering to daytrippers<br />

from abroad who represent cash and nothing more. I saw an old FA Cup final match on TV<br />

a while ago. I think it was the 1977 final against Liverpool. I was amused to see that they didn’t<br />

even display the minutes on the screen. When a substitution was made they held up a piece of card<br />

with the number of the player to be subbed on it. It looked ridiculous <strong>com</strong>pared to the digital boards<br />

they use today and the huge focus on injury time. Back then the so-called United “souvenir shop”<br />

was a small shed-like structure at the side of the forecourt. As kids, we’d go in there, but never buy<br />

anything as we couldn’t afford it. There would be a long snaking line of people making their way<br />

through the shop, some of whom had travelled from distant places. They were usually ex-pats from<br />

Manchester who’d relocated to Canada, Australia and other Commonwealth countries. Sometimes<br />

they’d announce on the PA system before kick-off that someone was here all the way from Sydney<br />

or Toronto, and the crowd would give them a big cheer. They were people who used to live in<br />

Manchester and support United. These days they <strong>com</strong>e from all over the world, to take pictures with<br />

their smartphones and buy merchandise from the Megastore. I think the owners would love it if they<br />

could have 90,000 United virgins there every week, all more than happy to spend large wads of<br />

cash on their special occasion. It’s a money-spinner. The wages the players receive are also way out<br />

of proportion to what they do. The fitness level is definitely higher now, but they’re pampered<br />

beyond belief and the egomaniacs are practically running the asylum.<br />

When was the first time you start thinking to write "Perry Boys"? why?<br />

It was after I found out about the 80s Casuals forum online, and I went on there and posted some<br />

bits and pieces. Mainly stuff about how I remember the casual culture slowly emerging from the<br />

post-punk melee of the late-70s. It was a bit psychedelic and inspired, and a lot of those first posts<br />

appear in the book verbatim. Dave Hewitson, the guy who runs the forum, first suggested I should<br />

turn it into a book. I’d always felt like there wasn’t enough info on the casual scene, but that was<br />

partly because I lived in the USA and didn’t know about all the other books that had been written.<br />

There used to be nothing whatsoever online anywhere and it puzzled me. I felt like I could rectify


that situation by describing the fashion timeline as it happened, which is kind of what “Perry Boys”<br />

tried to do. Now, when I talk to old mates back home, I realise a lot of them don’t even have<br />

<strong>com</strong>puters. They’re pretty hardcore and old school. This is why there was nothing on the internet<br />

about it; those guys were out living life. I wonder if I’d have ever owned a <strong>com</strong>puter or written a<br />

book if I’d stayed in Manchester. Sometimes I even wonder if I’d still be alive.<br />

What is your next project? a little preview...<br />

I have a few things going on. One is a novel set in the USA with a main character from England.<br />

All I can say is it’s a biker story without bikes, if that makes any sense. I might put it up on Amazon<br />

for Kindle download. I’m also writing a screenplay but that is top secret! Hopefully something will<br />

<strong>com</strong>e of it. I have some other stories, mainly short ones about all kinds of weird stuff, and I’d also<br />

like to put a collection up for Kindle download.<br />

What's your favourite english stadium? Why?<br />

Old Trafford. Just because.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”<br />

Never followed the national team, really. The one time I really did was at Italia ’90 and it very<br />

disappointing to see England go out to Germany on penalties. So close but so far away, as they say.<br />

Ultimately I think the English national side is total shit and full of overrated players I despise.<br />

United always <strong>com</strong>es first.<br />

What do u think about "fc unitet of manchester" project? the fans' football team...<br />

I think it’s all in a good cause, but football’s changed and that’s a symptom of the way people in<br />

general have changed. FCUM will grow and they’ll have a ground of their own and at some point<br />

they’ll be making money – more money than they need to put back into the organisation. Maybe<br />

they’ll find creative ways to give back to the <strong>com</strong>munity and it will thrive as a new kind of<br />

enterprise. I hope it does, because it will be a kick in the balls for the big fish. If FCUM be<strong>com</strong>es<br />

popular and successful enough they could realistically begin to truly grow and attract supporters<br />

from the so-called “Big United”. It would be a heart-warming sight to see FCUM in the Premier<br />

League with a nice ground and decent crowds. One problem is the smug attitude of those who<br />

“were there in 2005” towards those who decided to “wait and see”. It could drive a wedge between<br />

the support and they’d end up divided. That would be a shame.<br />

Which period about terraces and style of dressing do u prefer and why? ('70, '80, rave period,<br />

'90 etc)<br />

The period from 1979 to 1982. That was when the look first came out. Some scousers will tell you<br />

it was 1977, but the <strong>com</strong>plete lack of photographs showing proper “boys” from then tells a different<br />

story. Adidas finally cracked the working class market with their cheaper Kick shoe, and soon lads<br />

were discovering the more expensive Samba. That was the first rung of the ladder, when a pair of<br />

black and white Adidas, Levi jeans and a Fred Perry polo shirt was the uniform. A Bowie-esque<br />

short back and sides was the hairstyle, soon to grow out into a “flick” or “wedge”. It was a soul boy<br />

style, based, I think, on the cool haircuts French and Italians already had that Manchester’s soul


oys had sported for a few years. Now the football lads were copying it, partly because of soul<br />

music, but also Bowie and Roxy Music. The northwest’s pubs, youth clubs and football terraces<br />

were suddenly full of all these tough kids looking cool, while the rest of England were stuck in the<br />

1970s styles, like flared trousers and big collars. It was that distinction that made it so exciting, the<br />

fact that mancs and scousers were ahead of the game. Adidas training shoes and sport- and streetwear<br />

underwent a very definite evolution. From Kick-Mamba-Bamba-Samba to Jogger, to Stan<br />

Smith to Năstase to ATP to Wimbledon and Grand Prix, to Grand Slam and Puma Argentina. The<br />

Fred Perry polo became Lacoste became Penguin became Fila, as Levis mutated into Lee into Lois<br />

into Inega into Razzy into FUs and back into Levis.<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

Probably a good ol’ pair of Levis. They’ve really stood the test of time. I’m not into all the really<br />

expensive stuff. A good solid pair of Levis is still the best jeans there is, in my opinion.<br />

“adidas black shadow” is a really nice and ingenious chapter, but which are your favorite<br />

trainers?<br />

Thanks, glad you liked it. As Willie Wonka once said, “A little nonsense now and then is cherished<br />

by the wisest men”. I always loved the tennis shoes with the blue-bottomed soles. Adidas<br />

Wimbledon and Grand Prix were among my faves, and Puma Argentina. It’s hard to say which is<br />

my absolute favourite out of those three.<br />

What's your favourite Italian label? Why?<br />

Fila. Back in the early days, anything by Fila was considered top quality. These days I’m not so<br />

sure, because Fila seems to have gone downhill. In the early-80s anyone in a BJ tracksuit top, or a<br />

nice brushed cotton pair of navy blue trousers, or a Terinda or a pinstriped polo t-shirt, was<br />

guaranteed to be noticed. A mate of mine who was a real trendsetter had a pair of Fila trousers.<br />

They were a <strong>com</strong>bination of tracksuit bottoms and actual trousers, with a tiny Fila logo near the hip<br />

pocket. I’ve never seen a pair since, but if I ever made a film and wanted to show a top boy, he’d be<br />

wearing those trousers, even if I had to make them myself. A friend of mine died of cancer earlier<br />

this year. I refer to him as Paul-S- in my books and articles, and he was a hard lad with real style.<br />

He ventured deep into the dark side of Manchester gangsterism and served several prison sentences,<br />

some for serious crimes. Another friend said of him recently, “He could wear a sack with a piece of<br />

rope tied round it and still look like a million dollars”. Back in the old days, guys like that were<br />

leaders, and Fila was one of the labels they favoured. I bought a great tracksuit top once off another<br />

lad I knew, it was totally unique; red with navy blue and white stripes intersecting at certain points,<br />

and the Fila logo on the zipper. I think my younger sister stole it off me in the end.<br />

what do u think about the brands made by lads? for example labels like "Peaceful hooligan",<br />

"80's casuals","The casual connoisseiurs" etc<br />

I don’t really wear those brands, to be honest. Dave Hewitson gave me a funny 80s Casuals t-shirt,<br />

though, with the guy leaning against the wall in a goggle jacket and gas mask, and the whole thing<br />

is in black and white. The only colour is on his feet, a pair of yellow Adidas with blue stripes and it<br />

says “It’s Grim Up North”. Very <strong>com</strong>ical. I always loved the idea that the air in the north of<br />

England is so polluted you can’t breathe. Someone once gave me a black t-shirt with a red Inter-<br />

City logo on it, and underneath the ICJ motto, “To Pay is to Fail”. I like that one.


What is the band that you like the most, and your favorite song?<br />

Tough one. For many years I loved The Kinks and my favourite song was “Victoria”. Later, I liked<br />

Talking Heads the best, and my favourite song by them is impossible to say. I like their albums<br />

from the time period ’77 to ’85, especially 77, More Songs About Buildings and Food, Fear of<br />

Music, Speaking in Tongues and Stop Making Sense. Absolutely brilliant stuff and a great<br />

<strong>com</strong>plement to a few hard bong hits.<br />

What do u think about Stone Roses's reunion?<br />

I hope they all be<strong>com</strong>e millionaires, but my feelings about the people attending the shows is mixed.<br />

I’ve heard some ridiculous stories about violence and all kinds of antics, a lot of it by people who<br />

were probably toddlers in 1990. All of a sudden they’re experts on Madchester because they saw a<br />

band that peaked twenty-odd years ago. I listen to the Roses a lot, and have a lot of respect for<br />

them. As people and as artists. Mani emailed me to say he liked my book, and that was a great<br />

feeling. Their music never lets you down, and I’d love to see them live if they ever <strong>com</strong>e to New<br />

York. There’s clearly a huge demand for them to tour again so who knows what might happen. I’d<br />

love to see a new album of new material that blew everyone away.<br />

What was the best night club of Manchester and why? (present and past)<br />

Hard to say. I always liked the clubs in the building that was the old Pips Disco, whose Roxy Room<br />

spawned much of the Perry boy culture. The Roxy Room’s Bowie influence played a big part, along<br />

with the Russell Club, who’s Factory Nights saw bands like Buzzcocks and Joy Division build<br />

Manchester’s image of itself as something distinct and separate from the larger music scene in<br />

England.<br />

I also liked the Cyprus Tavern, which was more of a Man City Governors hangout, but the<br />

atmosphere was always moody and it gave an edge to the music and lights.<br />

Manchester not for turist, what should we visit if we go to Manchester??<br />

I would definitely re<strong>com</strong>mend a pub crawl. There are tons of pubs in Manchester that are full of<br />

charm and atmosphere. People are very opinionated about which pubs are good and which ones<br />

aren’t but once you’re in the city centre you can easily tell a good one. Mr. Thomas’s Chop House,<br />

The Peveril of the Peak, The Lass O’ Gowrie, Corbiere’s, The Briton’s Protection, Yates’s Wine<br />

Lodge, The Brunswick, and many more. Here’s a good website about Manchester bars and<br />

pubs:http://www.manchesterbars.<strong>com</strong>/top10.htm<br />

I’d also go to Manchester Museum (http://www.museum.manchester.ac.uk/), as it has a decent<br />

Egyptology section, as well as a lot of interesting animal exhibits and a reptile house upstairs.<br />

There’s also the National Football Museum (http://www.nationalfootballmuseum.<strong>com</strong>/), the<br />

Imperial War Museum North (http://www.iwm.org.uk/), the Peoples’ History Museum<br />

(http://www.phm.org.uk/), the Air and Space Museum and the Museum of Science and Industry.<br />

Not in the same class as anything in Rome but well worth a visit!<br />

The nightclubs are also good, but I’ve been away so long and I’m such an old cunt I can’t<br />

re<strong>com</strong>mend any!<br />

Free space for greetings etc:


Thanks for giving me the chance to present myself to your <strong>Roma</strong>n readers and beyond. <strong>Roma</strong>, Inter<br />

and Napoli are some of my favourite Italian football teams. I first liked <strong>Roma</strong> because of their kits,<br />

believe it or not! It’s very interesting to me how Italians created the styles and the English became<br />

addicted to them, and then Italians were influenced by the English. It’s a closed circle in a way. The<br />

Perry boy era seems so long ago now. Sportswear was such better quality back then and youngsters<br />

today have no idea why some of us still like wearing tracksuit bottoms or training shoes! They<br />

missed out, that’s for sure.<br />

Site: http://www.perryboys.<strong>com</strong><br />

Articles taken from Ian Hough’s contributions to the Manchester United fanzine, United We<br />

Stand.<br />

http://thenamelessthing.<strong>com</strong>/united-we-stand<br />

PHIL THORNTON<br />

How did you feel the first time you went to the ground(stadium)? What year and match was<br />

it?<br />

I went to Anfield, home of Liverpool FC when I was about 6 years old which was around 1971 and<br />

when the Kop was the biggeest, noisiest terrace in England, I remember it being extremely cramped<br />

and quite scary for a small boy but also very exciting and the whole day, before and after the game<br />

was so memorable, even just being with my dad to share in the atmosphere was great. His car got<br />

stolen a few years later and he stopped going so I didn't really go to another game for about 6 years.<br />

In your book is written "Olympic Stadium '84" between the most dangerous away match,<br />

what do you can say about it?<br />

It was Peter Hooton from the band The Farm and The End fanzine who wrote that bit based on the


European Cup final of 84, when Liverpool fans were attacked badly after the game. This was one of<br />

the reasons why there was a lot of anti-Italian hostility at the Juventus final at heysel although I<br />

don't think this was aimed at Juve fans. I think a lot of English fans think that Italian fans are<br />

allowed to attack fans of English clubs and the police, caribinieri and the authorities allow them to<br />

do this or else they get attacked by the caribinieri too. There's still a lot of fear about going to Italian<br />

away games especially Rome or MIlan because you know there will always be problems with fans<br />

and the police.<br />

Have you ever followed the national team? Did you ever placed the England team before your<br />

club in your “scale of values”<br />

I am an internationalist/socialist so have no interest in any national team, although I love the current<br />

Spanish team ofcourse whoa re mostly not Spanish but Catalans, Basques etc. I think the<br />

Champions League is the best <strong>com</strong>peition ever, far better than the European Chmapionship or even<br />

the World Cup. If you're not playing for one of the top 20 European clubs then you are not truly<br />

'world class.'<br />

When was the first time you start thinking to write "casuals"? why?<br />

I sent out a proposal in 2001 to some publsihers who were doing similar books ie Hoolifan but they<br />

didn't want to do it as it was more about fashion. In 2002, i did a literary festival in Liverpool with<br />

Cass Pennant of West ham, Martin King of Chelsea and Tony Rivers of cardiff who all had their<br />

own books out with peter Wlash from Milo Books and then put the idea to Peter and it went from<br />

there. We had no idea if it would sell many copies but I was pleased just to see it in print. An Italian<br />

version of the book was done by Boogaloo Publishing a few years later with different photos, and<br />

more of them and theres also a Russian version too.<br />

Was it difficult to interview the lads for your book? Someone declined?<br />

Most of the people I interviewed were friends or lads I know from Terrace retro forum and a few<br />

did declien because they had good jobs and didn't want their bosses to know about their past<br />

hooligan antics.<br />

The cover of your book has be<strong>com</strong>e a symbol for casuals, Why did you choose this picture?<br />

what were the alternatives?<br />

My original cover was the Stone Island <strong>com</strong>pass but Milo Books did this design with the classic<br />

Mille Miglia hood and Aquascutum scarf and it has be<strong>com</strong>e iconic in a way so I've done an updated<br />

version of it with the designer Peter O#Toole. IO've seent the cover on various t-shirts and also on<br />

youtube clips even the EDL (english defence league) which i wasn't happy about. It's a good cover<br />

and stands out on the shelf so i'm pleased it has be<strong>com</strong>e copied.<br />

What was the influence of "paninari" on "casuals"?<br />

I don't think anyone knew what or who 'paninari' was. We didn't really get to see what Italian lads<br />

were wearing and assumed they were all Ultra style lads which was more or less what our old 70s<br />

skinheads and bootboys wore. I think it was coincidental that around 85, 86, new labels like Ciao,<br />

Chipie, Pop 84, Chevignon, Ball became popular along with Armani be<strong>com</strong>ing more available and<br />

that look replaced th eold sportswear or 'scruff' look of the previous few years for many lads. It wa


sonly really the pet Shop Boys song that showed some of the clothes the Italians were wearing that<br />

made us realise there were some similarities although I think Italians are great on coats and jumpers<br />

but not very good on trousers or shoes!<br />

Which period about terraces and style of dressing do u prefer and why? ('70, '80, rave period,<br />

'90 etc)<br />

My favourite era was pre-sports wear so that would be 1978 - 81ish when there was a different look<br />

almost every month and you had to really be in Liverpool or Manchester every week to keep up<br />

with the latest style. Then 84-85 in manchester with the dressed won/scruff look wearing flared 26<br />

inch jeans and cords, adidas jeans, cords, dublins etc and marc o'polo or golf jackets. I think the<br />

look has be<strong>com</strong>e too samey now - the third reich ramblers I call it - Mussolini would love it.<br />

Is there a piece of clothing that you would never leave without?<br />

I suppose adidas trainers (trabs as we say) will never really go out and are due a <strong>com</strong>e back now<br />

after everyone's getting bored with Clarks and moccasins and redwing hiking boots. Lacoste is<br />

another label that will always be cool - Stone Island and CP are making a <strong>com</strong>eback or rediscovered<br />

anyway and Hugo Boss tees were also very big again in Liverpool amongst the older<br />

lads.<br />

What's your favourite new brands? Why?<br />

I suppose Albam, Universal Works, Folk, Norse Projects etc are all very good labels but are<br />

suffering from be<strong>com</strong>ing identified with one particular look that is already be<strong>com</strong>ing passe. I like<br />

english label Crojack at the moment and still like refrigiwear, paramo for outdoorrs and winter.<br />

What do u think about the brands made by lads? for example labels like "Peaceful hooligan",<br />

"80's casuals","The casual connoisseiurs" etc<br />

I like them. we did our own t-shirt label 'curva nord' about 8 years back and have jsut done a new<br />

design with the casual connooisseur label based on dexy's midnight runner's 'searching for the<br />

young soul rebels' LP - I remember seeing the first 80s casuals t-shirt when i was shopping in<br />

tessutti in chester way back in 2002 and got to know jay and dave and think they've done a great job<br />

over the past 10 years.<br />

What is the band that you like the most, and your favorite song?<br />

My favourite band of all time is funkadelic although i never got to see them before they split up. the<br />

harcore jollies LP is perhaps my favourite LP of all time.<br />

What is the most beautiful concert you saw? describe it<br />

I think The Pogues in 86 or 87 at the royal court in Liverpool was the only concert where it felt like<br />

being in afootball crowd and I really enjoyed that and also the beastie boys concert the same year<br />

when it eneded in a riot with tear gas and I got a can of lager thrown at my face covering me in<br />

blood, that was good!!<br />

What do u think of oasis and blur?


I hate oasis, I think they're a third rate karaoke band but Blur have made some great music. I don't<br />

like damon albarn as a person but you can't deny his talent as a musician.<br />

"Your city" not for turist, what should we visit if we go to your city??<br />

Liverpool is where I work although I'm a man united fan (it's along story which I explain in the new<br />

chapter to my 10 year anniversary edition of casuals) can be quite violent at night so you need to<br />

know where to avoid. The area around duke street and seel street has some nice bars and restuarants<br />

and further out in lark lane there are some nice pubs and cafes. try to avoid the Liverpool One area<br />

and around mathew street where all the tourists go, slater street and concert square is also crap and<br />

best avoided. if you are ever in Liverpool I will show you around.

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