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The Vinferno - Bonny Doon Vineyard

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“If they truly noble Greats are, how came they here<br />

And not to a finer, more exalted place?<br />

Noble lives they led only to now reside in eternal drear.”<br />

“<strong>The</strong> Great Ones enjoy a modicum of grace,<br />

But barred from further ascent, expecting no more,<br />

<strong>The</strong>y abide here, grateful not to have ended up a burned-out case.<br />

“This is Wine Limbo, where reside the brilliant vignerons of lore,<br />

Masters who came B.S. (Before Spectation)<br />

And were never awarded a numerical score.<br />

“Thus, never qualifying for vinous salvation,<br />

<strong>The</strong>y gather around de Limbo Bar (how low can you go?)<br />

And discuss the state of de vine on Earth with great consternation.” 11<br />

I caught a glimpse of Dr. Jules Guyot, 12<br />

Himself pruned back to a mere stump of the powerful man he was,<br />

Conversing with Ronald Barton with significant brio.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re was a rather powerful buzz that came across<br />

In conversation between two great Bourguignons,<br />

René Engel and Dr. Barolet, anent the latter’s “secret sauce.”<br />

<strong>The</strong>re were the Greats from the Côtes du Rhône–<br />

Rayas’ Louis Reynaud and Jacques Perrin from Beaucastel,<br />

Debating whose Estate was finer, who really had the Stones.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> wine business has really gone straight to Hell,”<br />

This opinion voiced by M. Raoul Blondet. 13<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re is no more finesse, it is all late-harvest zinfandel.”<br />

“If we could only have gotten then the prices we see today.<br />

Today’s consumers are fools to pay what they do!”<br />

A sentiment shared by Chafee Hall 14 and Madame Ferret. 15<br />

“A hundred dollars a bottle for an unknown cru?<br />

No track record, no terroir?” pondered Count Haraszthy.<br />

“It’s given a high score and consumers don’t say boo.<br />

“I’d say the practice is downright ghastly.”<br />

“Calma, Count,” counseled the Veuve, Mme. Clicquot.<br />

“You are, perhaps, over-reacting vastly.”<br />

I had so many questions to pose to her and to my other heroes<br />

Viz. “What were the pre-phylloxera wines really like in their prime?<br />

Were they really so special, imbued with much greater mojo?”<br />

<strong>The</strong> widow: “I didn’t really appreciate them so well at the time,<br />

But let me give you a lesson, young man, and mark well:<br />

While ‘tis true les grands crus d’antan were truly sublime,<br />

11 <strong>The</strong>y are particularly agitated about such high-tech “solutions” as reverse osmosis.<br />

12 <strong>The</strong> most widely used vine training system, “le systeme Guyot” or “cane-pruning” as we know it, bears his name.<br />

13 Legendary maître de chais at Mouton-Rothschild.<br />

14 Proprietor of Hallcrest <strong>Vineyard</strong> in the ‘50s and producer of extraordinarily elegant wines.<br />

15 Certainly the greatest producer in the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé.

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