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Atlantica - Iceland Review

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The old fisherman’s huts on Aegissída, Reykjavík’s southern coast.<br />

On sighting an icy land, Arnarson threw his<br />

two ‘high-seat pillars’ into the sea, swearing to<br />

the Norse gods that he would settle wherever<br />

they came to rest.<br />

He landed at Ingólfshöfdi in southeast <strong>Iceland</strong><br />

and ordered his two slaves, Vífill and Karli,<br />

to walk west along the coast of <strong>Iceland</strong> until<br />

they found the pillars. Three years later they<br />

found them, washed ashore in a small bay. We<br />

came across a stark monument, representing<br />

the steaming pillars, after whizzing around the<br />

corner.<br />

The dark grey dolerite stone Parliament House<br />

(Althingishúsid) adorns one of Reykjavík’s prettiest<br />

squares, Austurvöllur or ‘east field’, located<br />

by Kirkjustraeti and Pósthússtraeti, streets<br />

named after the church and post office respectively.<br />

On our late November morning, we<br />

were blessed with glorious sunshine, but the<br />

square was bare and watched over by a 1931<br />

statue of national independence struggle hero,<br />

Jón Siggurdson, by sculptor Einar Jónsson. “In<br />

summer, this is Reykjavík’s greenest square and<br />

everyone sits out here enjoying the sunshine<br />

with a beer or an ice cream,” said Valsson.<br />

The dinky Dómkirkjan, <strong>Iceland</strong>’s national<br />

church, is known locally as ‘the cathedral’,<br />

despite its modest size, and the famous Hotel<br />

Borg can be seen at right angles to the church.<br />

We stopped for our next break at Reykjavík’s<br />

famous hot dog stand opposite the Kolaportid<br />

(flea market) building and Valsson told the story<br />

of how US president Bill Clinton accompanied<br />

his wife Hillary when she visited Reykjavík on<br />

diplomatic business. Clinton was at a loose end<br />

and wandered along the street to the Baejarins<br />

bestu (Town’s Best) hot dog stand and bought<br />

one. “However, he didn’t order it in the traditional<br />

way ‘with everything on it’, but only<br />

chose mustard. He couldn’t add raw onions<br />

because he had to meet people, and no fried<br />

onions, ketchup or rémoulade because of his<br />

46 atlantica

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