THE WORLD OF BEAUTY MEETS - WWD

wwd beauty forum
AFTER A LONG DROUGHT of consolidation and recession,
beauty is looking back to the glory days of the late
Nineties, when brands created compelling stories that
drove consumers into stores eager to experience the
transformative promise.
Chief among the key proponents of this strategy is
Lynne Greene, the global brand president of Clinique,
Origins and Ojon at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. Over the
last two years, Greene has transformed Clinique from an
industry stalwart into uncontested star, staying true to the
key components of its heritage while simultaneously positioning
it as a thought leader. At
the WWD Beauty Forum, held on
Wednesday at The Asia Society
& Museum in New York City and
titled New Brand Brand New,
Greene outlined her approach
to modernizing a heritage brand.
“Commodities are things,”
she declared. “Brands are
human. Feelings matter.”
Rather than implementing
a strictly analytical approach,
Greene focused on how the feeling
that a brand elicits is the most
important equity to preserve during
reinvention—rather than a
signature product or procedure.
“A heritage brand can get
stuck on its icons,” she said,
relating an encounter she had
with a young Chinese executive
who worked for The Coca Cola
Company, and managed to convince
her bosses back in Atlanta
to change the color of a particular
juice bottle. Meant to convey
a sunny blue sky, it was the
wrong blue for China’s sky. Coca
Cola changed the packaging.
Greene then showed Clinique’s
classic slide-rule skin diagnostic
tool, which the brand launched
in 1968 and still calls a “computer.”
Clicking through a variety of
slides showing the evolution of
digital computing, Greene landed
on Clinique’s new at-the-counter
iPad, which is attached to a printer
and is a 21st-century version
of the at-the-counter prescriptive
tool. “It’s smart, clean and authoritative,
and it’s intimate, because a woman can take it anywhere,”
she said. “Focusing on the computer was not what
made it come to life,” she continued. “It’s not about being a
beauty diagnostic tool. It’s an intimate experience, and the
woman is there to have the emphasis on her.”
Greene next moved on to a point she called “I am who
I am, when I am, where I am,” which demonstrated the
futility of a cookie-cutter approach to global marketing.
“Which would you rather lose,” she asked the audience,
“your wallet or your cellphone?” While in the U.S., the
loss of a wallet would be traumatic, in China, the answer
��
would be the cellphone. “When Chinese people lose their
cellphone they lose face. Possessing means one thing in
China, another in the U.S. It’s the emotional connection.”
She related a story in which Clinique’s brand manager
for India came to her begging not to run the brand’s iconic
“Twice A Day” ad for its three-step skin care regimen,
which depicts a toothbrush in a glass on one side and a
bar of soap, Clarifying Lotion and Dramatically Different
Moisturizing Lotion on the other. “He said, ‘Don’t make me
run this soap ad,’” Greene remembered. “‘In India, soap is
a 2-cent commodity. If we run this, they’ll see us as a mass
brand.’” Although the campaign
is a Clinique signature that has
been with the brand almost since
its inception, Greene agreed to
go with a more modern version,
which features Clinique’s liquid
facial cleanser. “There are differences
in how we see and perceive
things,” she said.
To that end, follow a consumer’s
behavior, Greene counseled,
but “lead the thinking
and capture the heart.” Using
digital marketing as an example,
she noted that it’s not about
being covered in every conceivable
medium from Facebook to
Foursquare, but rather making
sure that the right message in the
right medium is being conveyed.
“We need to lead the thinking
and capture the consumer’s
heart,” she said, citing an app
that Clinique has launched in
Asia, and will soon introduce in
the U.S., that enables users to
find out the weather anywhere in
the world and how it will impact
their skin. “It accommodates and
fits into the consumer’s life.”
WWD FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2011 5
WWD.COM
Time to Rebuild
At WWD’s Beauty Forum, held Tuesday at the Asia Society in New York, industry leaders took on tough topics and looked toward
the future. Here, in Part One of our coverage, the speakers from the first half of the day are featured. Part Two will run next Friday.
TIPS FROM GREENE ON MODERNIZING A CLASSIC
TAKEAWAYS FROM WWD’S BEAUTY FORUM
��� VASSILIKI PETROU:
By 2045, artificial intelligence
will not just emulate human
intelligence, but will surpass it.
��� ALEXANDER BOLEN:
The Oscar de la Renta
Finding the “white space,” or
VASSILIKI PETROU, the London-based marketing
director of trends & innovation for the P&G Beauty
and Grooming division of Procter & Gamble Co.,
opened the daylong WWD Beauty Forum with a pulsating
presentation outlining socio-cultural trends
that could influence the beauty industry during the
next three to five years. She began by articulating
an underlying observation: “We are reshaping what
it means to be a human being.”
Around this issue swirls a number of Asianinspired
movements and countermovements,
driven by developments such as “a blending of the
physical and digital worlds, the development of
science which is shaping what we call the transformation
of humanity, the fact that there is a dif-
keying in to opportunities that othfusion driven by a huge demographic trend — we
ers turn a blind eye to, has been a are going to call that ‘it’s a small world.’ ” The last
��
key pillar of Greene’s reinvention factor involves the redistribution of wealth and re-
of Clinique. In a point titled, “I defining status, Petrou said.
can’t tell you what I don’t know,” She predicted that the importance of informa-
she emphasized that sometimes, tion technology will explode by a factor of one bil-
people aren’t even aware that lion in the next 25 years and quoted a futurologist
they have the problem a product as saying that by 2045, “artificial intelligence will
corrects until it’s brought to their not just emulate human intelligence, but definitely
attention that there’s a solution. is going to surpass it.”
She explained that when she asked Clinique’s Italian mar- One side effect is the emergence of a condition
keters about the potential of Even Better Clinical Dark Spot called CPA, or continuous partial attention, the
Corrector, they were skeptical. The product is now a run- new ADD. People are skimming all the time and
away bestseller, in Italy and around the world.
we are seeing a lot of loss of memory,” Petrou said.
Greene wrapped up with a deafening vroom, the un- Humanity is being transformed by medical
mistakable sound of a Harley Davidson motorcycle en- advances. Petrou noted “scientists are close to
gine. For six years, Harley tried to trademark the sound, reversing the real aging process,” although she
but gave up the effort in 2000 after being stymied by com- added that critics warm that an acceleration of the
petitors. “Brands have a sound, a voice, a music,” she said, cell renewal process might lead to cancer. Another
reiterating “Commodities are things. Brands are human.” movement, called “working my body,” involves
— JENNY B. FINE using devices or implants, or making “synthetic
interventions on the body to achieve superhuman
results.” Another focus centers on using medical
techniques for the injured or infirm to enhance a
healthy body’s performance, going from the “disabled
to the super-abled.”
the bottom is not what brand
marketing is about.”
��� JO HORGAN: The
Australia-based Mecca
Cosmetics has nabbed a 10
percent share of sales in
its market and enjoys sales
growth exceeding 20 percent
in a static market.
��� CLAUDIA LUCAS: QVC’s
beauty sales topped $800
million in the U.S. in 2010.
Intermarriage, centered more on biological
similarities between people than differences,
spells “the end of ethnicity,” and sparks “the rebirth
of humanity,” Petrou noted, adding that
there also is an opposing movement of different
ethnic groups clinging to their cultural roots. She
ended by predicting that the luxury consumer of
tomorrow will be male, Chinese and young.
— PETE BORN
A heritage brand
can get stuck
on its icons.
— LYNNE GREENE,
ESTEE LAUDER COS. INC.
ceo shuns the fragrance
industry’s “model with the
bottle” print ad format,
and strategies that call
for a $25 million ad
campaign to reap $50
million in sales. “A race to
Vassiliki
Petrou
FOR VIDEO FOOTAGE, VISIT
BeautyForum.FORA.TV.
PETROU LOOKS TO FUTURE
ALL BEAUTY FORUM PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE

6 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2011
wwd beauty forum
BOLEN TALKS DE LA RENTA BEAUTY RELAUNCH
ALEXANDER BOLEN, chief executive
officer of the Oscar de la Renta fashion
house, pitched the unthinkable to the
designer several years ago when he
suggested they bring the fragrance operation
in-house.
“So, are you nuts?” was reportedly
de la Renta’s response to Bolen’s idea.
But Bolen, who said that the company’s
fragrance business had seen sales
fall 39 percent from 2005 to 2010 to $15
million, really didn’t have any other
option. Launched in 1977, de la Renta
scents generated $300 million at retail
in 1990. But, the business changed hands
many times over the years, first to Avon
Products, then Sanofi, then YSL Beauté
and, finally, L’Oréal, losing its focus. And
the brand also was at risk for losing its
cachet. As one department store buyer
said to Bolen, “The brand isn’t right for
my store since the fragrance is available
in every drugstore in Texas.”
The fashion house, on the other
hand, has seen a 17.7 percent growth in
sales over the same time period, which
includes everything from gowns to
swimwear to sunglasses.
BACK IN THE DAYS when Claudia
Lucas was first head buyer for beauty at
Selfridges — a role she took on in 1999,
and in 2004 left to become senior vice
president and general merchandise manager
of Henri Bendel — prestige beauty
brands whispered about selling on QVC,
but weren’t out bragging about it.
My, how things have changed.
“Back then, no one wanted to sell
to us,” said Lucas. In her current role,
Lucas manages a multimillion-dollar
portfolio of brands through direct TV
and e-commerce platforms — and beauty
sales account for about 15 percent of
QVC’s overall sales; beauty sales topped
$800 million in the U.S. in 2010.
One of the major agents of change,
she said, was Bare Escentuals founder
Leslie Blodgett, “who was passionate
about mineral makeup and came to QVC
since she’d shopped the channel before
and felt there was a market for her
makeup,” said Lucas. Fast-forward to
January 2010, and Blodgett sold the com-
“Fashion and fragrance were moving
in opposite directions,” said Bolen.
So, 18 months ago, Bolen brought
in the fragrance business, ended all licenses
with partners and began clear-
pany to Shiseido for $1.7 billion. Lucas
noted similar stories for Smashbox
(later acquired by the Estée Lauder
Cos. Inc. for a reported $250 million);
Philosophy (acquired first by the Carlyle
Group for $475 million and then by Coty
Inc. for $1 billion), and Ojon (acquired
by Lauder for $45 million.)
What those brands all have in common
is a passionate founder who could
engage consumers on-air with a compelling
story and a great product assortment,
said Lucas.
She noted that 95 percent of QVC’s
buyers are repeat customers, making
understanding those consumers and
exceeding their expectations particularly
critical. “We ask customers to review
and endorse the products they
buy — encompassing the good, the bad
and the ugly — and we have community
forums where consumers are encouraged
to air their thoughts,” said Lucas,
adding that she will shortly begin writing
a beauty blog for the site. Several
AUSSIE BEAUTY RETAILING WITH HORGAN
IT WAS DURING long plane rides
between Australia and the U.S. that
Mecca Cosmetica founder Jo Horgan
hammered out a plan to fill the gap of
beauty retailing in Australia.
“Seventy percent of cosmetics are
sold in department stores [in Australia],”
said Horgan, noting a need in the market
especially for niche brands. Thirteen
years ago, she sought to offer customers
an edited specialty beauty option with
“the best of the best.” Today her company,
Mecca Cosmetica, operates three formats:
Mecca Cosmetica, Kit Cosmetics
and Mecca Maxima.
“We were a new model, so we
couldn’t go head-to-head with department
stores,” said Horgan, who said she
begged brands to sell her. Many of the
beauty companies had little or no recognition
in Australia, so Mecca took full
ownership of them, handling everything
from distribution to marketing. “We are
solely responsible for our brands, so
we are invested in their DNA and their
success,” she said of the lines, which
are sold exclusively at Mecca.
The hands-on approach, born out of
necessity, clicked. Today Mecca counts
Alexander
Bolen
LUCAS SPOTLIGHTS GROWTH OF QVC BEAUTY
Jo Horgan
29 stores throughout Australia and New
Zealand. Horgan followed that up with
Kit Cosmetics, a beauty lifestyle store
offering a no-frills approach to finding
rare and coveted brands. There are now
10 of these units targeted to a slightly
younger customer. The final format is
ing out scents from the drugstores and
mass chains that carried them.
This year, de la Renta made his
reentry into the business prior to
Mother’s Day with the introduction of
an updated eau de parfum version of
the brand, complete with a contemporary
interpretation of the famous 1977
perfume bottle, called Esprit d’Oscar
Eau de Parfum. Distribution is being
kept tight, prices have doubled and synergies
between the de la Renta fashion
and fragrance business are being carried
out, such as the placement of a red
Oscar de la Renta gown within the fragrance
department at Harrod’s.
Bolen envisions a future that includes
launching limited-edition scents,
such as a solid fragrance ring, and new
offerings for the fourth quarter. Even lip
and nail lines are being considered. But
he doesn’t want to do anything too ordinary,
such as the typical “model with the
bottle” print ad format, and he discounts
strategies that call for a $25 million ad
campaign to reap $50 million in sales.
“A race to the bottom is not what brand
marketing is about.” — ANDREA NAGEL
Claudia
Lucas
beauty brands, including Laura Geller
and Mally, have their own forums on
the site. Social media, particularly
Facebook and Twitter, are also heavily
used to market and obtain consumer insights.
A QVC Everywhere mobile app,
launched in March, has already topped
45,000 downloads. — JULIE NAUGHTON
Mecca Maxima, an evolution of Mecca
Cosmetics that brings an edited mix of
prestige beauty brands into one environment,
with more than 3,000 beauty
products across 100 brands. Mecca has
nabbed a 10 percent share of sales in
its markets and enjoys sales growth exceeding
20 percent in a “static” market.
Currently, said Horgan, 50 percent
of sales are cosmetics, 35 percent skin
care and 10 percent fragrance. She said
she sees great opportunities to lift the
percentage of fragrance, but that color
was the easiest starting point for gaining
shopper loyalty because women are more
“fickle” and want to try new color brands.
Mecca’s shopper fan base has been
built by a network of sales associates
who are well trained and passionate
about their jobs (there’s less than a 3
percent turnover in staff). Intense training
is backed up with clever marketing,
making optimal use of store signs and
marketing campaigns such as a French
theme for Valentine’s Day. Makeover
services are offered in stores, building
loyalty. “People want unbiased help, advice
and brand edits,” said Horgan.
— FAYE BROOKMAN
Annalise
Quest
FOR VIDEO FOOTAGE, VISIT
BeautyForum.FORA.TV.
HARRODS’ QUEST
ON BUILDING BRANDS
WITH 26,000 SQUARE FEET devoted to
beauty and store retail sales topping $1.6
billion yearly, Harrods is a sought-after destination
for beauty brands big and small.
First, however, the brands are subject
to the intense scrutiny of Annalise
Quest, general merchandise manager of
beauty for Harrods. She has three major
points of criteria before she takes any
brand on: innovation, a point of difference
or wow factor and partnership. “As
a merchant, we recognize that a lot of
our brands are available globally,” said
Quest. “Exclusivity is our favorite word.”
Once a brand has been selected,
Quest’s launch strategy includes nurturing
the brand if it needs guidance and
working with the brand to develop a comprehensive
launch strategy. “For instance,
Nubo came to us with a very technologically
advanced skin care line, but the
packaging wasn’t great. It didn’t showcase
the attributes,” she said. “We worked together
to bring the right positioning to the
market,” and it became one of the retailer’s
most successful launches.
Once a brand is established, Quest
and her team work to ensure long-term
success by cultivating an open working
relationship with lots of communication
and developing a long-term brand strategy.
“Launching is often the easy part,”
said Quest. “A strategy to keep the brand
relevant is critical.”
On July 11, the retailer will unveil a
revamped Beauty Apothecary hall in a
different area of the floor from where it
is now located; the department will stock
unique and niche brands, said Quest.
“The offer will remain very similar, but
all of a sudden it will take on a new life
because the fixtures, fittings and aesthetic
will be very luxury but very cool, very
simple but very, very approachable and
shoppable,” she said. The Apothecary will
link into a new 4,456-square-foot “color
emporium,” which will be unveiled in the
second half of 2011 in what is currently
the store’s Lifestyle Beauty hall.
The retailer’s White Hall carries skin
care and color cosmetics, while the Black
Hall is devoted to fragrances.
Quest said she thinks color cosmetics
are currently the greatest area of opportunity
for Harrods’ beauty business. “We
are not where I feel we should be with
color, and we will be launching the makeup
room to drive the category forward,”
said Quest. “My future goal is to have
skin care, fragrances and color cosmetics
each have one-third of the overall beauty
business.” — J.N.

Judith
Gross
GROSS TOUTS A
NATURAL COURSE
JUDITH GROSS, global marketing
director for Naturals
at International Flavors &
Fragrances Inc., spoke about
quality, sustainability and truthfulness
and how they are invaluable
assets to success in the natural
fragrance industry.
Gross oversees marketing
for Laboratoire Monique Rémy
(LMR), a company based in Grasse,
France (and purchased by IFF in
2000), that specializes in the cultivation
of natural and raw materials
for fragrance and flavors.
“It started with a woman
with a vision,” said Gross about
LMR founder Monique Rémy.
“[Rémy] is a true iconoclast.”
Gross explained that at the
heart of the LMR business model
is respect and transparency.
“[There is] a true love for the
natural product,” said Gross. “No
marketing tools can invent it.
Passion is a beautiful story to tell.”
Gross says it’s LMR’s emphasis
on respecting the ingredients, the
surrounding community and the
art of perfumery that gives LMR
an industry edge. LMR routinely
works alongside local farmers,
who sustainably harvest plant
varieties with the best olfactive
traits and highest yield. Rémy,
who works directly with farmers
on improving harvesting techniques,
said LMR’s farmers take
special care when gathering natural
ingredients, paying close attention
to the best times of day to
harvest and even ensuring insect
populations are balanced. The results,
according to Gross, who also
helped develop IFF’s Harvest
Series collection, are high-quality
natural fragrance ingredients, unparalleled
in the industry.
“You just have to smell [an
LMR fragrance] — you can tell the
difference,” said Hermès perfumer
Jean-Claude Ellena in a video
shown during the presentation.
“[My products] are alive, I believe
in them,” said Rémy, herself,
in the video.
Gross went on to describe
the delicate harvesting process,
from the thoughtful gathering of
plants to their transformation
into a finished product.
“ ‘A rose is a rose’ doesn’t
apply in perfumery,” said Gross.
“You can’t build a Ferrari with a
Fiat engine.”
LMR’s most recent fragrance
collaboration, DKNY’s
PureDKNY A Drop of Verbena,
launching in September, is a
delicate citrus green floral scent,
which includes verbena-basil
sourced sustainably from Togo.
Trudi Loren, vice president of
corporate fragrance development
worldwide for the Estée Lauder
Cos. Inc., who was also featured
in the video, said, “[There is] sincerity
in the voice [that one] cannot
fake.” — BELISA SILVA
BARRA PROMISES MORE
TARGET DESIGNER TIE-UPS
CALLING BEAUTY AN “exciting business”
for Target Corp., José Barra, the company’s
senior vice president, health and beauty,
promised more innovation in the category
at the “affordable, chic” discounter, including
more exclusives.
Giving a shout-out to makeup artist
Sonia Kashuk, who was in the audience,
Barra discussed how important the Kashuk
franchise has been as an anchor to the entire
cosmetics department. After his presentation,
he acknowledged some items sell
through so quickly, especially in the northeast,
that Target is working on ways to enhance
stock positions. “Sonia Kashuk was
introduced 10 years ago and proved you
could offer affordability without comprising
quality,” Barra said, linking that message
to the entire roots of Target, which were
based on the fact that discount stores didn’t
José Barra and
Sonia Kashuk
COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA 2011
9 TH EDITION | 31 ST JULY – 2 ND AUGUST
LAS VEGAS – MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER
need to equate with cheap merchandise.
Limited edition, often designer brands,
will continue to proliferate at Target. In fact,
he said the new Calypso St. Barth collection
currently launching in stores features cosmetics
bags and hair care accessories. Missoni
will be the next Target exclusive and Barra
didn’t rule out synergy with beauty categories
such as hair accessories. “We continue to
surprise and delight our guests,” said Barra,
using Target’s term for shoppers and even
THE WORLD OF BEAUTY MEETS
UNDER ONE ROOF: COSMOPROF
NORTH AMERICA - LAS VEGAS
Brad Klaus
CEO
Extole, Inc
Eric Gilbert
Marketing
Yahoo! Small Business
Shannon Nelson
Founder
A Girl’s Gotta Spa!.com
Andrew Knox
President / COO
Pixie / Pop Beauty
Ido Leffler
Co-Founder/“Chief Carrot Lover”
Yes To Inc
Deborah Lippmann
Founder
Deborah Lippmann Collection
• Visit Discover Beauty to uncover new beauty lines poised to become the next ‘it’ brands!
• Follow our TrendScouts for live coverage on Facebook & Twitter to identify hot new
products launching at the show
• Meet top online media beauty editors in the Beauty Blogger Central
• Get inspired from top notch conferences offered for high rank management
and CEO’s including:
My Beauty Faux Pas moderated by Andrea Nagel of WWD, focusing on the details
that simply must not be overlooked during the early phases of launching a brand.
For the complete conference schedule visit cosmoprofnorthamerica.com/education
Mike Lewis
VP Marketing & Sales
Awareness Inc
Andy Johnson
Creative Partner
United DSN LLC
Karen Young
CEO
The Young Group
Joan Lasker
President / CEO
Touchback (Colormetrics LLC)
A business to business premier event dedicated to all beauty decision makers;
ranked as one of the top 200 US trade shows.
See finished products for Retail Stores, Salons and Spas plus suppliers to the
industry including Packaging, Contract Manufacturers and Private Label from all
over the world.
PURCHASE TICKETS ONLINE NOW
TIL JUNE 30 TH TO SAVE UP 30% AT
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GMM Beauty
Duane Reade
WWD FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2011 7
WWD.COM
using the tongue-in-cheek “Tar-jey” pronunciation
so many consumers use for the chain.
Barra discussed Target’s ongoing
Destination Beauty format, which was formulated
with “guest” feedback and features bold
graphics, amped-up lighting and merchandise
such as collections from well-known makeup
artists Jemma Kidd, Napoleon Perdis and
Petra Strand that differentiate Target from
the competition. “We have amazing results
from Destination Beauty,” said Barra, who
said Target customers today do a great deal of
cross-shopping and are more educated about
brands than ever. The impact of social media
and online searches has pushed Target to go
even further to “push the limits and not just
sell what shoppers need.” He added that the
high level of collaboration between Target
and its vendors drives awareness and cited
the success of Boots as an example.
Going forward, he said Target will continue
to realize time is of the essence and
jump on innovation in beauty. — F.B.
COSMOPROFNORTHAMERICA.COM
Scott Vincent Borba
CEO
Borba Inc
Curtis Nether
National Account Executive
Starbucks Coffee Corp
Updates on:
Robin Coe Hutshing
Chairman
Gold Grenade LLC.
Stephen Powell
Senior Advisor
Catterton Partners
Jill Scalamandre
CEO
Chrysallis Group
Hadley Mullin
Managing Director
TSG Consumer Partners
Laura Ortmann
CEO / Owner
Ginger Bay Salon & Spa
Aaron Magness
Sr. Director
Zappos.com
65 DAYS TIL SHOWTIME...

8 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2011
wwd beauty forum
Linda Wells,
Deborah Roberts,
Jane Hertzmark
Hudis and Steven
Teitelbaum, M.D.
THE NOTION OF BEAUTY REEXAMINED
THE NOTION OF WHAT IT means to be
beautiful is evolving, but with more ideals
being represented, the definition may be
even more difficult to attain.
During a panel discussion Tuesday,
moderator Linda Wells, editor in chief of
Allure magazine, quoted comedian Tina
Fey to underscore the point: “Now every
girl is expected to have Caucasian blue
eyes, full Spanish lips, a classic button
nose, hairless Asian skin with a California
tan, a Jamaican dance hall ass…the hips of
a nine-year-old boy, the arms of Michelle
Obama, and doll tits. The person closest
to achieving this is Kim Kardashian.…
Everyone else is struggling.”
The good news, as a recent Allure study
found, is that women no longer only exalt
those with blue eyes and flaxen hair as
FORUM beauty
brand.
new.
beautiful — at least in theory. To explore
that view, Wells gathered experts in media,
the beauty industry and plastic surgery.
Deborah Roberts, a correspondent for
ABC News and “20/20,” said, “Sadly, at least
in the media we’re still coming about this
fairly slowly.” She divulged that stories involving
a beautiful, blonde woman as the
subject or victim get instant attention from
TV producers. Roberts, an African-American
who grew up in a small town in Georgia in
the Sixties and Seventies, said, “There was
an ideal of beauty and it wasn’t me.”
Los Angeles-based plastic surgeon Steven
Teitelbaum, M.D., said that despite the headline
grabbing procedures, à la Heidi Montag,
most women and men seek subtle change.
“People today are asking to be a refined
version of themselves,” said Teitelbaum. But
FOR VIDEO FOOTAGE, VISIT
BeautyForum.FORA.TV.
of course, “Occasionally they will bring in a
photo of Angelina Jolie’s lips.” The point unleashed
Roberts’ reporter instincts: “Bristol
Palin. Did she or didn’t she?” Teitelbaum
demurred that he does not comment on who
has or has not gone under the knife.
Jane Hertzmark Hudis, global brand president
for Estée Lauder, acknowledged the
industry gets quite a bit of flack for pushing
a certain ideal or look. But Hudis has a less
menacing view: “It’s our responsibility to say,
‘Take care of yourself and feel good about it.’”
When asked by an audience member
what role retouching of photographs plays,
Wells quipped, “At Allure, we do a lot of retouching
— as a matter of fact we do most
of it on my editor’s photo.…Retouching was
born when portrait photography was born.”
— MOLLY PRIOR
On-
Demand
Video
Lynne Greene
THE ESTÉE LAUDER
COMPANIES INC.
Jo Horgan
MECCA COSMETICA
Annalise Quest
HARRODS LTD.
BeautyForum.FORA.tv
WWD.COM
Rodriguez
Renews
With BPI
By JENNIFER WEIL
PARIS — Narciso Rodriguez and
Beauté Prestige International
have renewed their fragrance
license for another 10 years.
The designer and BPI, a
unit of Shiseido, first inked an
agreement in 2001. Two years
later, they introduced For Her,
followed by For Him in 2007
and Essence in 2009.
“BPI has great ambitions for
the Narciso Rodriguez brand,
and the renewal of the partnership
will allow us to keep
building and developing the
business in the future,” stated
Remy Gomez, president of BPI.
“I am extremely proud of
the success of my partnership
with BPI,” stated Rodriguez.
“I look forward to continuing
and strengthening this great
collaboration.”
The Narciso Rodriguez fragrance
business ranks among
the top 10 in key European
markets and holds “leading
positions in its highly selective
distribution,” according to BPI.
The company’s other fragrance
licenses include Issey
Miyake, Jean Paul Gaultier and
Elie Saab.
José Barra
TARGET
CORPORATION