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Gedenkstätte<br />

Große Hamburger Straße<br />

Before 1939, this was one of the<br />

most important Jewish streets,<br />

with several Jewish schools, the<br />

oldest Jewish cemetery in Berlin<br />

and an old people’s home. The<br />

latter achieved tragic fame during<br />

the Nazi period – the SS used it<br />

as a detention centre for Berlin<br />

Jews before transporting them<br />

to the concentration camps. A<br />

simple monument commemorates<br />

thousands of Jews who<br />

were sent to their death from<br />

here. To the left of the home<br />

is a Jewish school, on the site<br />

of an earlier school founded in<br />

1778 by the Enlightenment<br />

philosopher Moses Mendelssohn<br />

(1729–86). To the right of the<br />

monument is the Jewish cemetery,<br />

where some 12,000 Berlin<br />

Jews were buried between 1672<br />

and 1827. In 1943, the Nazis<br />

almost completely destroyed the<br />

cemetery. Only a few Baroque<br />

tombs, or masebas, survived;<br />

these are now embedded into<br />

the small original cemetery<br />

wall. The place presumed to be<br />

Moses Mendelssohn’s tomb is<br />

marked by a new monument.<br />

d Große Hamburger Str. • Map J5<br />

Postfuhramt<br />

The richly ornamented Postfuhramt<br />

(post<br />

office transport<br />

department)<br />

dates back to<br />

the 19th century.<br />

It is now an<br />

exhibition hall<br />

for alternative<br />

photography<br />

and art shows<br />

and a centre<br />

for perform-<br />

Frieze on the Postfuhramt<br />

façade<br />

ance art.<br />

d Oranienburger<br />

Str. 35 • Map J4<br />

A Day in<br />

Scheunenviertel<br />

Morning<br />

Take the S-Bahn to Friedrichstraße<br />

and explore this<br />

road, Berlin’s former entertainment<br />

district. Walk<br />

north along the street up<br />

to Reinhardstraße, and<br />

turn left here towards<br />

Bertolt-Brecht-Platz. Continue<br />

south to Albrechtstraße<br />

to the Berliner<br />

Ensemble (see p126).<br />

Once you have admired<br />

the theatre where the<br />

great playwright used to<br />

work, you could make a<br />

detour to visit his home,<br />

Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte<br />

in Chausseestraße.<br />

The best way to get there<br />

is on foot – walk along<br />

Chausseestraße. If you<br />

remain in Friedrichstraße<br />

and turn right behind Friedrichstadtpalast<br />

into Oranienburger<br />

Straße (see<br />

p123), you will get to the<br />

heart of the fashionable<br />

Scheunenviertel. At the<br />

corner of the street rises<br />

the arts centre Tacheles,<br />

and a few steps to the<br />

east the shiny golden<br />

dome of the Neue Synagoge<br />

will come into view<br />

(see pp45 and 123).<br />

Afternoon<br />

Before exploring the Scheunenviertel<br />

district, you<br />

should take some refreshments;<br />

not far from the<br />

Synagogue is Café Oren<br />

(see p129). Walk along<br />

Tucholskystraße, then turn<br />

right into Auguststraße.<br />

Here you will find some<br />

of the most attractive<br />

courtyards, for example<br />

Kunsthof at the corner<br />

of Gartenstraße. Return<br />

along Auguststraße to<br />

Gedenkstätte Große<br />

Hamburger Straße and<br />

the Hackesche Höfe (see<br />

p123) to shop and for an<br />

evening meal.<br />

Around Town – Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel<br />

125

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