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Gedenkstätte<br />
Große Hamburger Straße<br />
Before 1939, this was one of the<br />
most important Jewish streets,<br />
with several Jewish schools, the<br />
oldest Jewish cemetery in Berlin<br />
and an old people’s home. The<br />
latter achieved tragic fame during<br />
the Nazi period – the SS used it<br />
as a detention centre for Berlin<br />
Jews before transporting them<br />
to the concentration camps. A<br />
simple monument commemorates<br />
thousands of Jews who<br />
were sent to their death from<br />
here. To the left of the home<br />
is a Jewish school, on the site<br />
of an earlier school founded in<br />
1778 by the Enlightenment<br />
philosopher Moses Mendelssohn<br />
(1729–86). To the right of the<br />
monument is the Jewish cemetery,<br />
where some 12,000 Berlin<br />
Jews were buried between 1672<br />
and 1827. In 1943, the Nazis<br />
almost completely destroyed the<br />
cemetery. Only a few Baroque<br />
tombs, or masebas, survived;<br />
these are now embedded into<br />
the small original cemetery<br />
wall. The place presumed to be<br />
Moses Mendelssohn’s tomb is<br />
marked by a new monument.<br />
d Große Hamburger Str. • Map J5<br />
Postfuhramt<br />
The richly ornamented Postfuhramt<br />
(post<br />
office transport<br />
department)<br />
dates back to<br />
the 19th century.<br />
It is now an<br />
exhibition hall<br />
for alternative<br />
photography<br />
and art shows<br />
and a centre<br />
for perform-<br />
Frieze on the Postfuhramt<br />
façade<br />
ance art.<br />
d Oranienburger<br />
Str. 35 • Map J4<br />
A Day in<br />
Scheunenviertel<br />
Morning<br />
Take the S-Bahn to Friedrichstraße<br />
and explore this<br />
road, Berlin’s former entertainment<br />
district. Walk<br />
north along the street up<br />
to Reinhardstraße, and<br />
turn left here towards<br />
Bertolt-Brecht-Platz. Continue<br />
south to Albrechtstraße<br />
to the Berliner<br />
Ensemble (see p126).<br />
Once you have admired<br />
the theatre where the<br />
great playwright used to<br />
work, you could make a<br />
detour to visit his home,<br />
Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte<br />
in Chausseestraße.<br />
The best way to get there<br />
is on foot – walk along<br />
Chausseestraße. If you<br />
remain in Friedrichstraße<br />
and turn right behind Friedrichstadtpalast<br />
into Oranienburger<br />
Straße (see<br />
p123), you will get to the<br />
heart of the fashionable<br />
Scheunenviertel. At the<br />
corner of the street rises<br />
the arts centre Tacheles,<br />
and a few steps to the<br />
east the shiny golden<br />
dome of the Neue Synagoge<br />
will come into view<br />
(see pp45 and 123).<br />
Afternoon<br />
Before exploring the Scheunenviertel<br />
district, you<br />
should take some refreshments;<br />
not far from the<br />
Synagogue is Café Oren<br />
(see p129). Walk along<br />
Tucholskystraße, then turn<br />
right into Auguststraße.<br />
Here you will find some<br />
of the most attractive<br />
courtyards, for example<br />
Kunsthof at the corner<br />
of Gartenstraße. Return<br />
along Auguststraße to<br />
Gedenkstätte Große<br />
Hamburger Straße and<br />
the Hackesche Höfe (see<br />
p123) to shop and for an<br />
evening meal.<br />
Around Town – Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel<br />
125