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Timepiece News - George Pragnell

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NEW 2012 MODELS<br />

NEW 2012 MODELS<br />

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duométre<br />

This year Jaeger- LeCoultre maintains its intensive pace of innovations with the unveiling of a<br />

new edition to the highly acclaimed Duomètre line, comprising the Duomètre à Chronographe,<br />

the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire and the all new Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire 40.5.<br />

I<br />

ts new-generation movement<br />

is based on an unprecedented<br />

concept nicknamed Dual-<br />

Wing. A genuine revolution in<br />

terms of watchmaking precision,<br />

the Dual-Wing concept is<br />

composed of two separate watch<br />

mechanisms connected by a<br />

shared regulating organ.<br />

The Duomètre à Chronographe<br />

is the highest expression of the<br />

art of the chronograph. A true<br />

masterpiece of micromechanics,<br />

its Jaeger-LeCoultre ‘Dual-Wing’<br />

Calibre contains two independent<br />

power reserves, one of which is<br />

devoted solely to a chronograph<br />

possessing unique functions:<br />

hours, minutes and seconds<br />

hands, a display of units per<br />

minute, and a “foudroyante”<br />

seconds display with zero reset.<br />

As the first model in this<br />

prestigious lineage, the Duomètre<br />

à Chronographe watch is available<br />

in pink gold and platinum, while an<br />

18ct yellow gold edition is available<br />

in a limited series of 300.<br />

Arranged on the elegant and<br />

easily readable dial, the hours,<br />

minutes, seconds and moonphase<br />

displays appear to make the<br />

Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire a<br />

classic watch model. But inside<br />

the case and partially hidden<br />

from view beats Calibre 381, a<br />

prodigious movement boasting<br />

unprecedented precision based on<br />

the Dual-Wing concept and which<br />

propels the watch firmly into the<br />

spheres of Haute Horlogerie. The<br />

Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire<br />

was voted the Watch of the Year<br />

by the collectors and watch<br />

connoisseurs of Timezone.co.uk.<br />

The Duomètre à Quantième<br />

Lunaire is available in 18ct<br />

pink or yellow gold on either<br />

a matt black or chocolate<br />

brown alligator leather<br />

strap. For the more fashion<br />

conscious male, the<br />

Manufacture have also added<br />

an 18ct white gold model in<br />

a limited edition of 200 with<br />

a black dial to the collection.<br />

The Duomètre à Quantième<br />

Lunaire 40.5 is a slightly<br />

smaller case at 40.5mm<br />

diameter and is available in<br />

18ct pink gold on a chocolate<br />

toned alligator leather strap.<br />

The Duomètre vividly<br />

illustrates Jaeger-LeCoultre’s<br />

unassailable position in the<br />

highest spheres of technical<br />

watchmaking.<br />

Far Left Duomètre à Chronographe<br />

- Ref. Q6012420<br />

Top Middle Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381<br />

Left Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire<br />

Ref. Q6043570.<br />

Above The new Duomètre à Quantième<br />

Lunaire 40.5 - Ref. Q604252<br />

A TANK IS A TANK IS A TANK<br />

IS A TANK IS A TANK*<br />

T<br />

he Tank watch was created<br />

in 1917 out of a vision, a<br />

solid concept that was the<br />

culmination of a lengthy process of<br />

deliberation. Here was an instrument<br />

for telling the time that completely<br />

eschewed tradition, turned custom<br />

on its head, brought modern<br />

design into the ateliers and took its<br />

place as a quintessential model for<br />

watchmaking. It was said that “a<br />

tank had stormed Cartier”. As it went<br />

on to segue between decades and<br />

straddle the century, this trailblazing<br />

watch and its revolutionary form,<br />

style and elegance were to pioneer a<br />

decisively modern lifestyle.<br />

Paris, London and New York.<br />

1847, 1902 and 1909. The Cartier<br />

brothers wasted no time in setting<br />

out to conquer the world. The entire<br />

Cartier back catalogue is coloured<br />

by this quest to open up to the<br />

international stage. The story of the<br />

house’s iconic tank watch typifies<br />

the pattern: following in the footsteps<br />

of the Tank Américaine and Tank<br />

Française, the Tank Anglaise was<br />

a logical progression.<br />

Tank Américaine<br />

Designed in 1987 and launched in<br />

1989, the Tank Américaine watch<br />

followed in the footsteps of the Tank<br />

Cintrée, borrowing its curved case<br />

while updating the design with a<br />

more compact rectangular form and<br />

rounded brancards.<br />

*Gertrude Stein<br />

Tank is a registered trademark of Cartier<br />

The power and elegance of its<br />

elongated, slightly arched form<br />

made this watch a classic. In its<br />

display of strength, the piece<br />

may be considered a tribute to<br />

the Tank watch presented to<br />

General Pershing.<br />

Tank Française<br />

The Tank Française watch,<br />

launched in 1996, updated the<br />

classic Tank legacy of the<br />

parallel-set lateral brancards,<br />

Roman numeral dial, cheminde-fer<br />

chapter ring, bâton hands,<br />

and a fluted winding crown<br />

Tank Wristwatch 1919<br />

decorated with a sapphire<br />

cabochon. In a bold departure,<br />

the curved case was set in a<br />

chain-link bracelet.<br />

As functional as it was stylish,<br />

boasting seamless lines, this<br />

archetypal wristwatch was a true<br />

feat of design.<br />

Tank Anglaise<br />

The Tank Anglaise watch is<br />

pure, distilled Tank. Featuring a<br />

concentrated form and emboldened<br />

lines, the fortified design offers<br />

proportion to spare. Cartier pairs<br />

this generous, ample volume with<br />

Tank Américaine<br />

characteristic Tank features such as<br />

the strap seamlessly incorporated<br />

into the case, Roman numerals,<br />

chemin-de-fer chapter ring, and<br />

blued-steel sword-shaped hands.<br />

The signature parallel brancards<br />

now house the winding crown,<br />

which is perfectly streamlined.<br />

The Tank Anglaise watch is<br />

available in three ladies’ and men’s<br />

sizes in three colours of gold. The<br />

large models are powered by the<br />

Manufacture MC 1904 movement,<br />

visible through the open back.<br />

You can view a selection of the<br />

Tank Anglaise on page 19.<br />

Tank Française<br />

5<br />

6

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