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Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />

N°9 - € 2.90<br />

N°5 - 6Lt<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

LJUBLJANA<br />

Enjoy your<br />

COMPLIMENTARY COPY<br />

of Ljubljana In Your Pocket<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-<br />

written series of guidebooks.”<br />

The New York Times<br />

Ski & Spa<br />

Our annual winter guide is back<br />

and better than ever<br />

Best of New Year’s Eve<br />

The best and the rest as chosen<br />

by readers<br />

Highlights of the<br />

Coast<br />

An hour’s drive is a world away


www. pocket.com<br />

Download a free city guide at<br />

Europe’s leading www.inyourpocket.com<br />

publisher of locally produced city guides<br />

In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 50 cities across the continent.<br />

Europe’s leading publisher of locally produced city guides<br />

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S<br />

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S<br />

Contents<br />

Arriving in Ljubljana 8<br />

Getting around 9<br />

Basics 14<br />

Language, history and numbers<br />

Quick Picks 18<br />

The best of the best<br />

Culture & Events 16<br />

Music, festivals and exhibitions 16<br />

Best of New Year’s Eve 19<br />

Cultural centres and venues 23<br />

Conferences & Fairs 26<br />

Sports 31<br />

Where to stay 32<br />

Business suites to hostel bunks<br />

Dining & Nightlife 37<br />

Where to eat 37<br />

Everything from A to V(egetarian)<br />

Cafés 47<br />

Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes<br />

Nightlife 49<br />

Dance and drink the night away<br />

The view from our editor’s roof circa 5am<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Contents<br />

Somehow not as scary covered in snow<br />

What to see 60<br />

Bridges, museums and the castle<br />

Where to shop 66<br />

The best of what and where to buy<br />

Bovec 74<br />

A year-round sports paradise<br />

Ski & Spa 77<br />

From extreme slopes to relaxing saunas<br />

Highlights of the Coast 80<br />

The Mediterranean is only an hour away<br />

Wine Tasting 82<br />

East to West we have Slovenian wineries covered<br />

Mail & Phones 85<br />

Keep in touch by post, phone and internet<br />

Directory 86<br />

Lifestyle 86<br />

Business 88<br />

Maps & Index<br />

Street Register 93<br />

City centre map 94<br />

City map 96<br />

Country map 97<br />

Index 98<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


Foreword<br />

Come Christmas time in Ljubljana it’s nearly impossible<br />

for even the surliest of curmudgeons not to get caught<br />

up in the spirit of the holiday season (present company<br />

included). Despite the drop in temperature and seemingly<br />

omnipresent fog, every December the city centre comes<br />

alive with a panoply of sights, sounds, smells and activities<br />

as winter takes hold and one year becomes another. Slowroasted<br />

chestnut sellers kick things off by setting up their<br />

smoky wares at strategic points along the main pedestrian<br />

streets, and shortly thereafter a massive tree is erected in<br />

the centre of Prešernov Trg (p 61) and the entire old town<br />

is blanketed with thousands of tiny lights. But perhaps<br />

best of all are the small wooden stalls that eventually line<br />

the Ljubljanica and various squares, selling all manner of<br />

crafts and home-made goods, including copious amounts<br />

of mulled wine and warmed schnapps - enticing crowds of<br />

people from their warm cosy homes.<br />

Content-wise we’ve been busier than ever this issue,<br />

putting together all kinds of special features to keep you<br />

active over the next couple months. There should be<br />

something for everyone in our updated Ski & Spa section<br />

(p 77). Ever wanted to spend the night in an igloo? Now’s<br />

your chance! For those adverse to the snow, the winter is<br />

a great time to visit the Slovenian coast (p 80), with it’s<br />

mild Mediterranean climate and close proximity of things<br />

to see and do. And for wine-lovers we’ve compiled our<br />

largest-ever guide to Slovenia’s vineyards and wineries<br />

(p 82). Of course we haven’t forgotten about New Year’s<br />

Eve. In fact we ran a month-long poll to find out the best<br />

places in Slovenia to spend the waning hours of 2009 (p<br />

19). As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on<br />

Facebook, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.<br />

Cover story<br />

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket<br />

Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana<br />

Slovenia<br />

Tel. +386 30 316 602<br />

ljubljana@inyourpocket.com<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

ISSN 1855-<strong>34</strong>86<br />

©IQBATOR d.o.o.<br />

Printed Schwarz d.o.o., Ljubljana<br />

Published 20,000 on average<br />

Maps Monolit d.o.o.<br />

Although it may not look like it, we swear<br />

that this photo of a rather remote-looking<br />

field blanketed in snow was actually<br />

taken in Ljubljana - and during the spring<br />

no less. Robert Logie snapped it on<br />

Avšičeva Cesta in the Savlje neighbourhood<br />

of the city’s northern outskirts<br />

back in March of 2006.<br />

Editorial<br />

Editor Yuri Barron<br />

Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn<br />

Research Irena Jamnikar<br />

Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė<br />

Consulting Craig Turp<br />

Photos Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourist<br />

Office, Klub Top<br />

Cover photo Robert Logie<br />

Sales & Circulation<br />

Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc.<br />

niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com<br />

Sales & Operations Management<br />

Irena Jamnikar +386 30 316 602<br />

Karmen Hribar +386 31 203 560<br />

Barbara Žlender +386 30 316 601<br />

Europe In Your Pocket<br />

It has been another great year for In Your Pocket.<br />

We now publish a record 57 guides and mini-guides<br />

across 22 European countries. We print more than<br />

four million In Your Pockets annually. This year we<br />

launched new guides in Maribor, Bled, Portoroz,<br />

Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Brasov, Lviv and Odesa.<br />

Next year you can expect to see Venice, Vienna and<br />

Glasgow - amongst others - Pocketed.<br />

We welcome enquiries from anyone who would<br />

like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting<br />

up an IYP. Send us an email to publisher@inyourpocket.com.<br />

We also want to find out how we can<br />

make our guides better, so please take five minutes<br />

to complete our online survey at inyourpocket.<br />

com/survey.<br />

Copyright notice<br />

Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o.<br />

Maps copyright cartographer. All rights<br />

reserved. No part of this publication<br />

may be reproduced in any form, except<br />

brief extracts for the purpose of review,<br />

without written permission from the<br />

publisher and copyright owner. The<br />

brand name In Your Pocket is used under<br />

license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių<br />

10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212<br />

29 76).<br />

Editor’s note<br />

The editorial content of In Your Pocket<br />

guides is independent from paid-for<br />

advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />

clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />

readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />

We have made every effort to ensure<br />

the accuracy of the information at the<br />

time of going to press and assume no<br />

responsibility for changes and errors.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Press Box<br />

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of<br />

guidebooks.”<br />

New York Times<br />

“Tops for Central and Eastern Europe. Back in 1991<br />

during a long night of drinking, four guys living in Vilnius<br />

came up with the idea to create an online city guide<br />

for the Lithuanian capital, which at the time had no<br />

telephone directory. The result? This online collection<br />

of locally written, frank, lively and informative guides<br />

to more than 50 cities across the region, from Derry<br />

to Tartu. For most cities, content runs deep: there are<br />

more than 30 restaurants and 11 clubs listed under<br />

Brasov, for example. Plus, news, maps and blogs.<br />

You can even tune into a local radio station. Browse<br />

around the site for interesting finds, such as a Prague<br />

hotel that was formerly a theater and still retains<br />

original features, including a full size stage and balcony<br />

boxes.”<br />

Forbes.com<br />

“Death of the guide book? Pah! They’re just diversifying.<br />

Print off your own PDFs…”<br />

The Times, April 18, 2008<br />

(In naming In Your Pocket as one of 10 guide book<br />

publishers to trust, in the wake of the Lonely Planet<br />

scandal).<br />

“In Your Pocket guides are a godsend. They are<br />

impressively up to date and clearly written by people<br />

who live in the city. Invaluable”<br />

The Sun Herald (Australia)<br />

“Inyourpocket.com was the first online travel guide to<br />

come up with the idea of offering free downloadable<br />

city guides in printable (PDF) format.”<br />

The Guardian<br />

“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that,<br />

unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written<br />

by native English speakers living in the city they are<br />

writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-offact<br />

advice about your destination rather than jaded<br />

impressions from world-weary professional travel<br />

writers.”<br />

The Irish Times<br />

“Practical and honest. It‘s like having a friend and an<br />

advisor all in one.“<br />

La Repubblica<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Foreword<br />

Unique books from<br />

Ireland<br />

(and 21 other prizes)<br />

Complete our latest readership<br />

survey at inyourpocket.com/survey<br />

and we’ll enter you in our prize draw:<br />

the winner gets something priceless<br />

and unique from every country<br />

currently y In Your Pocket.<br />

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />

N°95 - 6Lt<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />

BELFAST<br />

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY Aug - Sep 2007<br />

Including<br />

NORTHERN<br />

IRELAND<br />

HIGHLIGHTS &<br />

HIDDEN GEMS<br />

N°13<br />

Complimentary copy<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

VILNIUS<br />

Užupis<br />

A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’<br />

distinctly eccentric<br />

independent republic<br />

Vingio Parkas<br />

From Tolstoy to rollerblades,<br />

the city’s favourite park is<br />

pulled apart and examined<br />

August Au August Augus A AAugust ugust u gust gu gus ust st t - - - - - - - - S S Septe S Se Septe S Sep Septem Se Septem<br />

Sep Septem<br />

Septem September p pte p t tte<br />

t t ber b r 20 200 2009 22009<br />

009 09<br />

Better by<br />

design<br />

Stunning souvenirs,<br />

stylish shopping and<br />

local crafts on display<br />

The Great<br />

Outdoors<br />

Feel the burn, catch the<br />

waves, take a hike<br />

Gastro Tourism<br />

Northern Ireland on a<br />

plate<br />

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />

WARSAW<br />

N°52<br />

Poland - 5 (w tym 7% VAT)<br />

UK - £5<br />

EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3<br />

warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />

ISSN 1641-5264<br />

N°48 - 100 K<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

August - September 2009<br />

After the Battle<br />

Warsaw Uprising 70<br />

years on<br />

The Mouth of<br />

Old Town<br />

Warsaw‘s Barbican<br />

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />

PRAGUE<br />

December 2008 - January 2009<br />

Christmas<br />

Markets<br />

Gifts galore<br />

Winter Chill Out<br />

Massage and more<br />

inyourpocket.com/survey<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


Arriving in LjubLjAnA<br />

Arriving by plane<br />

Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest<br />

of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about<br />

30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is<br />

coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus<br />

(€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check<br />

the airport’s website for a complete schedule.<br />

Arriving by train<br />

Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and<br />

made it to the main train station building, find everything<br />

you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up<br />

cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts.<br />

Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated<br />

lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with<br />

the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also<br />

boasts a surprisingly good Tourist Information Centre, a<br />

train information bureau immediately to the right and currency<br />

exchange opposite (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends<br />

as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you<br />

are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking<br />

distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure<br />

the meter is running before you depart.<br />

Arriving by bus<br />

All national and international buses arrive at the central<br />

bus station which is located directly in front of the main<br />

train station. The temporary prefabricated station building,<br />

serving passengers until the opening of the new combined<br />

train and bus station optimistically scheduled for 2010,<br />

features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals,<br />

making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps<br />

the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station<br />

does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only<br />

other useful facility being a small internet café for which<br />

tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to<br />

town is the same as described above.<br />

Castle Tunnel_ Renovated, reopened and sexier than ever<br />

A Word From Our Mayor<br />

For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world<br />

– unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia.<br />

As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts<br />

ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most<br />

important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly<br />

our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with<br />

their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure<br />

a touch of comfort and warmth.<br />

Welcome to Ljubljana!<br />

Arriving by car<br />

Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and<br />

excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road<br />

from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the<br />

parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near<br />

the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short<br />

distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and<br />

narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be<br />

aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.<br />

If Things Go Wrong<br />

The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue, andambulance<br />

and 113 for police. If possible, find someonewho<br />

speaks Slovene to help you make the call sincethere is<br />

no guarantee of finding an English speaker onthe other<br />

end.The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to thecity<br />

center can be found at University Medical <strong>Center</strong>at<br />

Zaloška <strong>cesta</strong> 2, Ljubljana (D-2) and emergencytreatment<br />

is free for members of EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We<br />

also list local pharmacies, dentists, andother services<br />

in the directory. You can find it here. If you find yourself<br />

in trouble with the police, call yourembassy immediately.<br />

The numbers for all embassiescan be found here<br />

under Foreign Representation in the directory.Useful<br />

Emergency Words:<br />

NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP!<br />

gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen<br />

policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police<br />

bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital<br />

Zoran Janković<br />

Mayor<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and<br />

nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agreement<br />

countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier.<br />

With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways<br />

throughout the country, getting around is also fairly<br />

easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning<br />

public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.<br />

Public Transport<br />

Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking<br />

distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people<br />

(and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members<br />

of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient<br />

bus network for reaching attractions farther afield,<br />

such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant<br />

Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the<br />

city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may<br />

be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the<br />

roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so<br />

most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While<br />

nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only<br />

the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for<br />

some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced<br />

Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers<br />

costs only €0.80, although you can still pay with coins (€1<br />

per ride, no change given) until the end of the year.<br />

LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) B-2, Slovenska<br />

56, tel. (+386) 14 30 51 74, mail@lpp.si, www.lpp.si.<br />

Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company.<br />

There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski<br />

Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Urbana Card<br />

In August the<br />

city bus operator,<br />

LPP, finally<br />

introduced the<br />

long awai ted<br />

Urbana Card,<br />

a form of electronic<br />

ticketing<br />

that will eventually<br />

replace the<br />

previous hodgepodge<br />

system<br />

of payment that<br />

included tokens,<br />

coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart<br />

card is similar to those already used in other cities,<br />

such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass.<br />

The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at<br />

many locations including various tobacconists and newsstands,<br />

tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP<br />

offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit<br />

can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these<br />

same locations as well as at the 24 green Urbanomati<br />

machines scattered around town - be aware that the<br />

machines don’t actually sell cards though. When getting<br />

on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card<br />

readers at the front entrance and €0.80 will be deducted<br />

from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including<br />

unlimited transfers. Until 31 December technophobes<br />

can still pay with coins, although the cost is €1 and no<br />

change is given.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

getting Around<br />

International train schedule<br />

From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />

First Last City First Last *<br />

06:15 21:15 BELGRADE 05:50 21:50 4<br />

02:00 08:40 BUDAPEST 12:03 16:35 2<br />

08:05 07:25 GRAZ 06:<strong>34</strong> 18:37 4<br />

09:27 23:50 MUNICH 08:27 23:40 3<br />

09:27 23:50 PRAGUE 07:14 17:11 2<br />

09:27 23:50 SALZBURG 01:<strong>34</strong> 14:12 3<br />

02:30 21:08 VENICE 15:48 21:20 2<br />

05:45 17:25 VIENNA 07:56 15:57 3-8<br />

07:26 23:50 VILLACH 04:07 19:27 7<br />

02:00 21:15 ZAGREB 07:00 23:35 7<br />

20:48 ZURICH 21:40 1<br />

All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December<br />

12, 2009. *Trains per day<br />

Trains<br />

Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable<br />

job of running an efficient network with clean modern<br />

trains that are usually on time. Their website (www.slozeleznice.si)<br />

contains a wealth of information in English,<br />

including live information on train delays as well as an<br />

online timetable. See the national and international train<br />

schedules in this guide for the main destinations.<br />

Train Station (Železniška Postaja) C-1, Trg Osvobodilne<br />

Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@<br />

slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Full of nice touches<br />

such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the<br />

platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station just<br />

north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced<br />

by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for<br />

information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re<br />

planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a<br />

1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with<br />

signs and departure screens in English.<br />

National bus schedule<br />

From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />

First Last City First Last *<br />

06:00 22:30 BLED 05:00 22:30 18-22<br />

10:15 20:10 CELJE 04:50 18:10 5-9<br />

05:10 22:30 GROSUPLJE 04:23 21:45 50<br />

17:20 MURSKA<br />

SOBOTA<br />

05:45 1<br />

05:30 23:00 POSTOJNA 06:07 21:10 20<br />

11:35 17:20 MARIBOR 06:52 13:35 3-4<br />

05:30 23:00 NOVA GORICA 04:45 19:45 15<br />

06:00 21:35 KOPER 04:56 19:30 13<br />

05:30 19:30 JESENICE 05:44 20:44 14<br />

05:15 23:00 KRANJ 04:20 22:15 50<br />

07:10 22:25 NOVO MESTO 05:45 15:28 10<br />

05:30 19:30 KRAJNSKA<br />

GORA<br />

05:20 20:20 15<br />

All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until February 1, 2010.<br />

*Buses per day<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


10 getting Around<br />

Buses<br />

Dozens of regular bus connections are available to efficiently<br />

whisk you to all corners of the country. See also<br />

the national and international bus schedules in this guide.<br />

Bus station (Avtobusno Postajališče) C-1, Trg<br />

Osvobodilne Fronte (OF), tel. (+386) 1 2<strong>34</strong> 46 00, fax<br />

(+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.<br />

si, www.ap-ljubljana.si. Essentially a large caravan without<br />

any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t<br />

be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either<br />

end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go.<br />

Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you<br />

should always check in the bus station to make sure. The<br />

bus station operates many national routes as well as regular<br />

international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00<br />

- 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.<br />

Car rental<br />

The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-<br />

100km/hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars<br />

must use headlights at all times and must have a spare<br />

wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and,<br />

in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol<br />

limit is 0.05%. The traffic information centre has road<br />

webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.<br />

promet.si.<br />

AGIO rent a car H-1, Celovška <strong>cesta</strong> 228, tel. (+386)<br />

59 043 719/(+386) 031 727 777, fax (+386) 059 047<br />

779, agio@t-2.net, prevozi-agio@t-2.net, www.agio.si.<br />

Located in the outskirts of the city, Agio offers a full range of<br />

vehicles sizes and classes and will deliver your car free of<br />

charge within 30km of the company. They also offer a great<br />

service where you can rent a car with a driver if you’re not<br />

so confident behind the wheel or feel like impressing your<br />

friends. QOpen 8:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 12:00. Average<br />

age of cars is 6 months. Cars from 30€ per day, without<br />

additional duties.<br />

Atet H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 17, info@atet.<br />

si, www.atet.si. Cars from €30 per day. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201<br />

98 48, open 08:00-22.00.<br />

International bus schedule<br />

From Ljubljana To Ljubljana<br />

First Last City First Last *<br />

12:57 20:20<br />

BANJA LUKA 13:30 13:30 1-3<br />

10:00 22:25 BELGRADE 00:50 21:00 2-3<br />

05:10 05:10 BOLOGNA 15:20 15:20 1<br />

19:45 19:45 BRNO 16:20 16:20 0-1<br />

05:10 08:15 MESTRE<br />

(VENICE)<br />

11:30 17:10 2<br />

18:30 18:30 MUNICH 19:45 19:45 0-1<br />

20:00 20:00 SARAJEVO 15:15 20:40 1-2<br />

20:45 20:45 SOFIA 15:30 15:30 1<br />

15:30 16:00 SKOPJE 15:30 17:00 1-2<br />

05:10 06:35 TRIEST 14:00 19:30 1-2<br />

01:00 01:00 ZAGREB 16:00 16:00 1<br />

All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until February 1,<br />

2010. *Buses per day<br />

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive<br />

AutoRent C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 5, tel.<br />

(+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 46 50, ljcity@rentacarslo.com, www.<br />

rentacarslo.com. Cars from €36 per day. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office<br />

tel. (04) 238 24 14 , open 08:00-22:00.<br />

Avant H-1, Dunajska 140, tel. (+386) 1589 08 50,<br />

national@avantcar.si, www.nationalcar-slovenia.com.<br />

Cars from €35 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00<br />

- 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 589 08<br />

68, open 08:00 - 22:00.<br />

Avis C-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1583 87 72, rez.center@avis.si,<br />

www.avis.si. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport<br />

office tel. (04) 23 65 000, open 08:00-22:00.<br />

Budget Rent a Car B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1421<br />

73 40, ljubljana.dt@budget.si, www.budget.si. Cars from<br />

€40 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />

Airport office tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00.<br />

Carrent D-1, Štihova 13, tel. (+386) 1433 30 82. Cars from €40<br />

per day. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Europcar C-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 31 38 20 52,<br />

reservations@europcar.si, sl.europcar.si. Cars from €36<br />

per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00<br />

- 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open 08:00-21:00.<br />

Hertz B/C-2, Trdinova 9, tel. (+386) 14<strong>34</strong> 01 47,<br />

ljubljana@hertz.si, www.hertz.si. Cars from €38 per day.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />

Airport office tel. (04) 201 69 99, open 08:00-22:00.<br />

Taxis<br />

Vinjeta www.dars.si. Slovenia<br />

requires all motor vehicles<br />

travelling on Slovenian highways<br />

to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah)<br />

sticker. This system exists in<br />

lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can<br />

be easily obtained at nearly all<br />

gas stations and kiosks.<br />

Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 for cars<br />

and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50<br />

for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will<br />

likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering<br />

the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep<br />

fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info<br />

check www.dars.si.<br />

Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable.<br />

The starting rate is €1, the rate per kilometre between<br />

€1-1.70, with no extra charge at night. Waiting costs<br />

€15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you<br />

lower rates.<br />

Metro Taxi Tel. (+386) 80 11 90.<br />

Protocol Tel. (+386) 41 62 15 04, info@protocol.<br />

si, www.protocol.si.<br />

Rumeni Taxi Tel. (+386) 41 73 18 31, info@<br />

rumenitaxi.com, www.rumenitaxi.com. QOpen<br />

00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Taxi Društvo Ljubljana Tel. (+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 90 00,<br />

info@taxi-ljubljana.si, www.taxi-ljubljana.si.<br />

Taxi Intertours Tel. (+386) 1520 97 04, info@<br />

taxi-intertours.si, www.taxi-intertours.si.<br />

Taxi Laguna Tel. (+386) 80 11 17.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Sixt C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 7, tel. (+386)<br />

12<strong>34</strong> 46 50, info@sixt.si, www.sixt.si. Cars from €<strong>34</strong> per<br />

day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00<br />

- 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 238 24 14, open 08:00-22:00.<br />

Technoplus Bratov Kunovar 6, tel. (+386) 1563 50<br />

24/(+386) 041 679 042, fax (+386) 1563 50 25, info@<br />

rentacarplus.si, rentacarplus.si. Cars from 28€ per day.<br />

Thrifty Zgornji Brnik 130 A, reservation@subrosa.hr,<br />

www.thrifty.si. Q Airport office tel. (04) 236 57 50, open<br />

from 07:00-21:00. Cars from €33 per day.<br />

Airport<br />

Ljubljana airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Zgornji<br />

Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386) 42 02 12<br />

20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si. Well connected to<br />

the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s<br />

Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and<br />

efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free wifi for internet<br />

addicts, a selection of restaurants and bars, banks, a currency<br />

exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open<br />

08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed).<br />

Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or<br />

shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly<br />

twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-<br />

20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs, airport information from<br />

07:00-23:00.<br />

Airlines<br />

Adria Airways (JP) H-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. (+386) 1369<br />

10 00, fax (+386) 1436 88 06, booking@adria.si, www.<br />

adria.si. Slovenia’s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam,<br />

Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Copenhagen,<br />

Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gatwick,<br />

Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de<br />

Gaulle. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airport<br />

office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00<br />

Air France (AF) B-3, Igriska 5, tel. (+386) 1244 <strong>34</strong> 47,<br />

fax (+386) 1244 <strong>34</strong> 48, mail.cto.lju@airfrance.fr, www.<br />

airfrance.si. Flights to Paris CDG. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 20 61 674 . Open<br />

two hours before flight.<br />

Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)<br />

42 02 01 22, office.ljubljana@aua.com, www.aua.com.<br />

Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30,<br />

Sun 06:30 - 10:00.<br />

Brussels Airlines (SN) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)<br />

42 06 16 56, www.brusselsairlines.com. Flights to Brussels.<br />

QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06<br />

17 50, www.czechairlines.com. Flights to Prague. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Only by the time of flight is working<br />

on Saturday from 05:30-07:00 and Sunday from 13:00-15:00.<br />

Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. +44 87 06 00 00<br />

00, www.easyjet.com. Flights to London Stansted. Q Airport<br />

office tel. (04) 206 16 77. Open two hours before flight.<br />

JAT Airways (JU) C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1231<br />

43 40, jat.airways@jat-lju.si, www.jat.com. Flights to<br />

Belgrade. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport<br />

office tel. (04) 206 17 80. Open two hours before flight.<br />

Lufthansa B-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. (+386) 14<strong>34</strong> 72<br />

46, lufthansa@adria.si, www.lufthansa.de. No Lufthansa<br />

flights to and from Ljubljana, but they do have an office selling<br />

airline tickets. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Malév (MA) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06 16<br />

65, www.malev.hu. Flights to Budapest. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

getting Around<br />

Flight schedule<br />

City Flights/Week Airlines<br />

Amsterdam 9 JP<br />

Athens 3 JP<br />

Belgrade 5 JU<br />

Brussels 19 JP/SN<br />

Copenhagen 4 JP/SK<br />

Frankfurt 25 JP/LH<br />

Istanbul 17 JP/TK<br />

Kiev 3 JP/PS<br />

London-LGW 6 JP<br />

London-STN 4-7 EZY<br />

Moscow 7 JP/SU<br />

Munich 26 JP/LH<br />

Paris-CDG 16-26 JP/AF<br />

Podgorica 6 JP/YM<br />

Prague 12 OK<br />

Pristina 11 JP/SK<br />

Sarajevo 7 JP/SK<br />

Skopje 11 JP/LH<br />

Stockholm-ARN 4 JP<br />

Tirana 7 JP/SK<br />

Vienna 21 JP/OS<br />

Warsaw 4 JP/LO<br />

Zurich 20 JP/LX<br />

Airline codes: AF Air France; EZY EasyJet; JP Adria<br />

Airways; JU Jat Airways; LH Lufthansa; LX Swiss; OK<br />

Czech Airlines; OS Austrian Airlines; SK Scandanavian<br />

Airlines; SN Brussels Airlines; SU Aeroflot; TK Turkish<br />

Airlines; YM Montenegro Airlines. Schedule is valid until<br />

27 March 2010.<br />

SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) , tel. (+45) 70 10<br />

20 00, www.flysas.com.<br />

Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, thyljubljana@<br />

siol.com, www.turkishairlines.com. Flight to Istanbul. Q<br />

Airport office tel. (04) 206 16 80.<br />

Travel Agencies<br />

Avantura B-2, Slovenska 40, tel. (+386) 1242 00 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1242 00 04, info@avantura.si, www.avantura.si.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Collegium B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 49<br />

70/(+386) 040 194 194, fax (+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 49 78, info@<br />

collegium.si, www.collegium.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 12:00.<br />

Kažipot B-2, Čopova 5a, tel. (+386) 1425 44 91,<br />

info@kazipot.com, www.kazipottours.si. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Kompas C-2, Pražakova 4, tel. (+386) 1200 63 33,<br />

prazakova@kompas.si, www.kompas.si. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.<br />

Mondial Travel B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 49<br />

72/(+386) 040 192 192, info@mondialtravel.si, www.<br />

mondialtravel.sI. QOpen 09.<br />

Relax B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 56 90, www.relax.si.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Roundabout Pot Draga Jakopiča 6, tel. (+386) 41 786<br />

168, fax (+386) 1 5611 039, info@roundabout.si, www.<br />

roundabout.si. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

STA Trg Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 14 39 16 90/(+386) 41<br />

61 27 11, fax (+386) 14 39 16 95, info@staljubljana.com,<br />

www.sta-lj.com/. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Tao C-2, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 5, tel. (+386) 1230 63<br />

20, info@taoturizem.si, www.tao-tt.si.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

11


12 bAsiCs<br />

Drinking<br />

Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and after 21:00 it<br />

cannot be bought in stores.<br />

Electricity<br />

Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts<br />

AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs.<br />

Money<br />

Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins<br />

come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1<br />

and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100,<br />

200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins<br />

are decorated with among other things storks, Mount<br />

Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože<br />

Plečnik design.<br />

Politics<br />

The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy.<br />

The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut<br />

Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next<br />

parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The<br />

government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which<br />

two are without portfolio.<br />

Religion<br />

Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the<br />

most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37%<br />

of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the<br />

rest of them believing in ‘something’.<br />

Exchange rates<br />

1 EUR € = 1.49 US$ = 0.90 UK£ = 1.51 CHF<br />

= 1 .6 3 AU$ = 1 3 2 ¥ = 1 0. 2 6 C N Y<br />

(Nov 23, 2009)<br />

Market values<br />

Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe,<br />

prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite<br />

noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro<br />

in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and<br />

prices:<br />

Product Price<br />

McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40<br />

Slice of pizza € 1.80<br />

Slice of burek € 2.00<br />

Cup of coffee € 1.10<br />

Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50<br />

Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50<br />

Bottle of local beer in a shop € 0.90<br />

Pint of beer in a pub € 2.40<br />

Pack of cigarettes € 2.50<br />

Single bus ride € 1.00<br />

Movie ticket € 4.90<br />

Postcard € 0.30<br />

Litre of petrol € 1.10<br />

Taxi ride across town € 5.00<br />

Fine for parking illegally € 40<br />

Basic data<br />

Population<br />

Slovenia 2,053,355 (2009)<br />

Ljubljana 266,845 (2004)<br />

Area<br />

20,273 square kilometres<br />

Ethnic composition<br />

Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%,<br />

Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7%<br />

Official languages<br />

Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian<br />

Local time<br />

Central European (GMT + 1hr)<br />

Longest river<br />

Sava (221km in Slovenia)<br />

Highest mountain<br />

Triglav 2,864m.<br />

Borders<br />

Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km,<br />

Croatia 670km<br />

Smoking<br />

Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently<br />

banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special<br />

smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.<br />

Tipping<br />

It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10%<br />

for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.<br />

Toilets<br />

Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon<br />

Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik<br />

Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the<br />

Triple Bridge (Open 07:00 - 21:00).<br />

Visas<br />

Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter<br />

Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely<br />

between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited<br />

amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details<br />

with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information<br />

can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.<br />

Temperature, °C<br />

30<br />

20<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

10<br />

0<br />

Climate<br />

-10<br />

-20<br />

J<br />

Rainfall, mm<br />

150<br />

F M A M J J A S O N D<br />

120<br />

90<br />

60<br />

30<br />

Town Hall at twilight<br />

Evidence suggests that people first populated the area<br />

known today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People<br />

were known to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by<br />

around 400BC when the Celts started arriving.<br />

Roman times<br />

With the expansion of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the<br />

establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank<br />

of the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found<br />

in today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of<br />

time, Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century<br />

AD, and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and<br />

other early Germanic tribes.<br />

Medieval Ljubljana<br />

Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily<br />

Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and<br />

Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands<br />

during the first few hundred years of this period and the basic<br />

shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out.<br />

16th to 18th Centuries<br />

Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued<br />

Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in<br />

1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511<br />

and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style.<br />

19th Century<br />

Napoleon visits the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of<br />

the Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this<br />

part of the world, a national awakening takes place during the<br />

19th century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language,<br />

the first college is founded, and the city grows into the shape<br />

and form it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is<br />

boosted by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of<br />

the city is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city<br />

is almost completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century.<br />

The Old Town is preserved practically intact.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

history<br />

Between the wars<br />

After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire<br />

Slovenia becomes part of the State, and then the<br />

Kingdom of the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December<br />

1, 1918, which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of<br />

Yugoslavia in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik<br />

(1872-1957) builds many of his most important buildings<br />

in the capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia<br />

is occupied by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians<br />

during WWII. In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother<br />

was born in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal<br />

Republic of Yugoslavia.<br />

Socialism & Yugoslavia<br />

Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised<br />

of the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin<br />

split of 1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppressive.<br />

Yugoslavs enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to<br />

travel out of the region and work in the West. Tito dies<br />

in Ljubljana on the afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative<br />

freedom and prosperity doesn’t stop the region from<br />

suffering the same blows as the rest of the Communist<br />

world, and Slovenia becomes the first country to declare<br />

independence from Yugoslavia, officially becoming<br />

independent on June 25, 1991 after the population votes<br />

in a referendum in favour of the move on December 23,<br />

1990.<br />

Independence & Beyond<br />

After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as<br />

the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination<br />

of nationalist pride and business acumen keeps much of<br />

the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the<br />

UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several<br />

weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar,<br />

is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of<br />

the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen<br />

countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU<br />

presidency for half a year.<br />

In the News<br />

After years of negotiations (or petty bickering depending<br />

on one’s general opinion of politics), Slovenia and<br />

Croatia were finally able to agree a framework for<br />

international arbitration to solve their long-running<br />

border dispute - which had seen EU member Slovenia<br />

essentially put a hold on Croatian accession talks for<br />

much of the past year. The agreement was signed on<br />

4 November and ratified by the Croatian parliament<br />

on 20 November, however, Slovenes will be voting<br />

on the issue at a special referendum to be held<br />

sometime during the first quarter of 2010. At stake<br />

is a tiny sliver of land on the Istrian peninsula and Slovenia’s<br />

free access (or lack thereof) to international<br />

waters.<br />

The other big news of the past couple months<br />

came courtesy of the right foot of Slovene striker<br />

Zlatko Dedić, who scored the only goal in Slovenia’s<br />

1-0 upset of Russia on 18 November in Maribor<br />

and secured the national team’s place at the<br />

2010 World Cup in South Africa. The surprise victory<br />

led to several days of celebrations across the<br />

country, including an impromptu street party in<br />

Ljubljana that lasted till sunrise the day after the<br />

match and seemingly left the entire city with a collective<br />

hangover.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

13


14 LAnguAge<br />

Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter<br />

alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian,<br />

and also shares many words with other Slavic languages.<br />

Although some words and letter combinations may appear<br />

unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly<br />

phonetic language with very few irregularities - although<br />

the letters L and V can do some strange things depending<br />

on their position in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak<br />

either English, Italian or German embarrassingly well,<br />

so chances are you won’t have to worry about any communication<br />

problems. However, as with most countries,<br />

attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go<br />

a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd<br />

‘hvala’ and ‘prosim’ won’t go unnoticed.<br />

Pronunciation<br />

c - as in pizza<br />

e - as in egg<br />

g - as in go<br />

j - like y in yogurt<br />

v - like u in tuna<br />

č - like c in cello<br />

š - like sh in ship<br />

ž - like s in pleasure<br />

Basics<br />

Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REE-tay<br />

Ahn-GLESH-ko) ?<br />

I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm)<br />

Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahn-<br />

EESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)?<br />

Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh)<br />

Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn)<br />

Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch)<br />

Yes - Ja (Yah)<br />

No - Ne (Nay)<br />

Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh)<br />

Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a)<br />

Please - Prosim (PRO-seem)<br />

Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay)<br />

Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM)<br />

My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ...<br />

I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)...<br />

Days<br />

Monday - ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek)<br />

Tuesday - torek (TOR-ek)<br />

Wednesday - sreda (Sray-dah)<br />

Thursday - četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck)<br />

Friday - petek (peh-tuck)<br />

Saturday - sobota (soh-BOH-tah)<br />

Sunday - nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah)<br />

Questions<br />

Who? - Kdo?(K-doh)<br />

What? - Kaj?(Kai)<br />

Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay)<br />

When? - Kdaj (K-dai)<br />

How much does it cost? - Koliko stane (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh)?<br />

Places<br />

Croatia - Hrvaška (Hurr-VASH-ka)<br />

England - Anglija (Ahn-glee-yah)<br />

Germany - Nemčija (Nem-CHEE-yah)<br />

Hungary - Madžarska (Mad-jar-skah)<br />

Ireland - Irska (Ear-skah)<br />

Netherlands - Nizozemska (NEE-zo-zem-skah)<br />

Scotland - Škotska (Shkot-skah)<br />

Venice - Benetke (Behn-et-keh)<br />

Vienna - Dunaj (Doo-nigh)<br />

Post<br />

One foreign stamp, please - Eno znamko za tujino, prosim<br />

(Eh-no z-nahm-koh zah too-YEE-noh pro- SEEM)<br />

For postcard - Za razglednico (Zah raz-GLEHD-neet-so)<br />

For letter - Za pismo (Zah pees-moh)<br />

Signs<br />

Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh)<br />

Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh)<br />

Entrance - vhod (oo-hod)<br />

Exit - izhod (eez-hod)<br />

Push – rini (ree-nee)<br />

Pull – vleci (oo-LETS-ee)<br />

Travelling<br />

Bus - avtobus (OW-toh-booze)<br />

Train - vlak (v-LOCK)<br />

I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ...<br />

One ticket, please - Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stop-<br />

NEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)<br />

Times<br />

Now - zdaj (z-dai)<br />

Later - kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh)<br />

Today - danes (dahn-es)<br />

Tomorrow - jutri (yoo-tree)<br />

Yesterday - včeraj (oo-cheh-ray)<br />

In the morning - zjutraj (z-YOO-try)<br />

In the afternoon - popoldne (poh-POLD-neh)<br />

In the evening - zvečer (z-veh-chehr)<br />

At night - ponoči (poh-NOH-chee)<br />

Restaurant Talk<br />

Menu, please - Meni, prosim (MEH-ni pro-SEEM)<br />

Bill, please - Račun, prosim (Rah-CHOON pro- SEEM)<br />

Do you have vegetarian food? - Imate vegetarijansko<br />

hrano (EE-mah-tay veh-geh-tay-ree-ahn-sko h-rahnoh)?<br />

Bar Talk<br />

One coffee, please - Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh<br />

pro-SEEM)<br />

One beer, please - (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM)<br />

Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)!<br />

What’s going on? - Kaj dogaja? (kai DO-ga-ya)<br />

Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo)<br />

You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh<br />

oh-chee)<br />

You’re hot - Si lepa (see LAY-pa)<br />

Where are you from? - Iz kje si? (iz kye see)<br />

Can I have your number?- Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko<br />

številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko<br />

shteh-VEEL-koh)?<br />

See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow)<br />

Street smarts<br />

Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in<br />

conversation, so while your destination may officially<br />

be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying<br />

Poljanska<br />

Avto<strong>cesta</strong> (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway<br />

Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard<br />

Most (mohst) Bridge<br />

Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment<br />

Trg (teh-rg) Square<br />

Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana Distilled<br />

Like A<br />

Local<br />

On the<br />

Cheap<br />

With The<br />

Family<br />

Over<br />

The Top<br />

Slightly<br />

Strange<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

quiCk piCks<br />

Eat Drink Do<br />

Stari Tišler (p. <strong>34</strong>) Only a short<br />

walk from the main train station,<br />

Old Tišler’s has been serving up<br />

traditional Slovene cuisine for<br />

over a century. They specialise<br />

in hearty soups, stews and goulashes,<br />

which means it’s a good<br />

place to try bograč, a Slovene<br />

favourite that is essentially a bowl<br />

of meat masquerading as stew.<br />

Daily lunch specials are a good<br />

value starting at €5, and there<br />

are a half dozen rooms available<br />

upstairs.<br />

Konkurenca (p. 44) Kebabs,<br />

burgers and burek to eat in or<br />

take away around the clock just<br />

southwest of the train and bus<br />

stations. Look for the blinding yellow<br />

and green façade for some of<br />

the cheapest eats in town.<br />

Jurman (p. 40) This popular family-friendly<br />

gostilna packs in the<br />

locals with a menu that seems<br />

to have a bit of everything and a<br />

somewhat kitschy atmosphere<br />

that manages to include knights,<br />

a waterfall and an video arcade all<br />

under the same roof. There’s also<br />

a children’s play area outside on<br />

the astroturfed patio. It’s a good<br />

budget-conscious option and the<br />

food isn’t half-bad either.<br />

Pri Vitezu (p. 42) Exquisite restaurant,<br />

widely recognized as one of<br />

the city’s best. Though expensive<br />

(and we mean expensive, you<br />

can spend a fortune here) it still<br />

offers great value for money to<br />

people for whom high class food<br />

is paramount. We recommend<br />

everything on the menu, as well<br />

as the daily lunch menu which your<br />

waiter will recite to you.<br />

Running Sushi & Wok (p. 41)<br />

When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt<br />

sushi place opened we had mixed<br />

feelings: a second option to get<br />

our raw fish fix was welcomed, but<br />

we were a bit leery about the allimportant<br />

freshness department.<br />

But as far as we can tell it’s OK.<br />

Everything more or less tastes like<br />

it should and there’s a good variety<br />

of dishes meandering around on<br />

separate hot and cold belts.<br />

Dvorni Bar (p.54) This large L-shaped<br />

adventure is a pleasant café during the day<br />

and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night.<br />

There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end<br />

for more wine-oriented patrons, while the<br />

other side is a little more geared towards<br />

the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100<br />

varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place<br />

to sample local vintages if you don’t have<br />

time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine<br />

growing regions, and organised tastings<br />

are held every second Wednesday from<br />

20:00-22:00.<br />

Kavarna in slaščičarna Zvezda (p. 48)<br />

a bustling café frequented by a battalion<br />

of clients from students to pearl-laden<br />

old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the<br />

direction of your classic Buddha lounge,<br />

with a scattering of Oriental statues and<br />

some fine brown velvet wallpaper. The<br />

coffee is strong enough to wake the dead,<br />

and the cakes are some of the best and<br />

stickiest in town.<br />

Cacao If you like ice-cream, and who<br />

doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with<br />

the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao<br />

serves up scoops of ice-cream which you<br />

can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace. Fruit<br />

and ice-cream is around €5 a serving and if<br />

you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go<br />

for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties such<br />

as Rio (Baccardi and blue curacao) or Brasil<br />

(tequila, minus the worm). There are also<br />

plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings<br />

available but if you are planning on going to<br />

Rio you might want to bring the babysitter.<br />

Top: Eat & Party (p. 48) Located on the<br />

top floor of a commercial building in the<br />

heart of the city centre, this recentlyopened<br />

venue is already the odds-on<br />

favourite to win the prestigious “Most<br />

Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award,<br />

and is looking to compete internationally<br />

later this year. Local DJs spin a good variety<br />

of music Wednesday to Saturday.<br />

Get yourself to Cupiterija (p. 38). Part café,<br />

part bar, part restaurant: Čupiterija, or Hijo<br />

de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original.<br />

Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down<br />

from Town Hall, they serve lunch Monday<br />

to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In lieu of<br />

menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled<br />

(in both English and Slovene) across a giant<br />

blackboard out front, and often include<br />

several pasta, steak and salad selections<br />

along with a couple random choices like<br />

chicken curry or artichoke risotto.<br />

Do what most locals do in<br />

the long summer evenings,<br />

or at weekends, and head for<br />

the enormous Tivoli Park.<br />

Almost as big as the city<br />

itself the park strectches<br />

for kilometers into the hills<br />

and is packed with things to<br />

do. You might also consider<br />

a trip out to the Postojna<br />

Cave (see page 65) of which<br />

locals are rightfully proud: it<br />

is the largest cave of its kind<br />

in Europe.<br />

With the Ljubljana card<br />

(€12.52) you get 3 days<br />

worth of free rides on the<br />

city bus (normally €1 a<br />

ride) as well as free admission<br />

to the city museums<br />

and galleries. You’ll be<br />

thanking yourself all the<br />

way to the bank.<br />

Ljubljana’s fantastic ZOO<br />

will keep the kids happy<br />

for hours. There are places<br />

to pet certain animals (not<br />

the lions of course though)<br />

and all in all there might well<br />

be more animals in here<br />

than there are people in<br />

Ljubljana (probably…). The<br />

zoo’s superb layout makes<br />

it easy to navigate. You will<br />

find it on the far side of<br />

Tivoli Park.<br />

Cankarjev Dom (p. 23)<br />

is host to many premier<br />

national and international<br />

musical acts, dance<br />

companies, and theater<br />

ensembles all year-round.<br />

Check out our culture &<br />

events section (p. 31) and<br />

find a great show.<br />

Metelkova Mesto (p. 24)<br />

is an autonomous social<br />

centre created when artists<br />

took over former army barracks.<br />

The place is decorated<br />

in colorful graffiti and<br />

artwork and serves as the<br />

home for a number of art<br />

organizations and rock<br />

clubsGromka and Klub<br />

Channel Zero.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

1


1 CuLture & events<br />

The one-time home of the Austrian composer Gustav<br />

Mahler, Ljubljana continues to inspire, nurture and produce<br />

a wide and eclectic mix of creative individuals and groups.<br />

Whether it’s the work of the Slovenian artists Richard<br />

Jakopič or Ivana Kobilca you’re here to see, or if you simply<br />

want to watch the latest Hollywood film, Ljubljana should<br />

have you covered.<br />

Music<br />

As both the cultural and student capital of the country,<br />

Ljubljana regularly hosts a wide range of musical performances<br />

from classical and world music to punk and experimental<br />

noise-rock to pretty much everything in between,<br />

and manages to attract more than its fair share of big<br />

name international acts.<br />

Rok Predin (Slo) - blues, pop rock<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

1 Dec 2009, 20:30<br />

Sebastjan Podbregar, tenor (Slo), Martina Burger,<br />

soprano (Slo) - classical<br />

The Slovenian Philharmonic<br />

2 Dec 2009, 19:30<br />

Josipa Lisac (Croatia) - pop<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

2 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

Tweak Bird (USA) - carnaval, latino<br />

Menza pri Koritu<br />

2 Dec 2009<br />

Buldogi (Slo) - punk<br />

Gala Hala<br />

3 Dec 2009, 21:00<br />

The Kilimanjaro Darkjazz Ensemble & Bong-Ra!<br />

(Netherlands) - electro-acoustic<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

3 Dec 2009, 21:00<br />

Alpsko Mediteranska Digital Rave Internacionala<br />

Smetnjakova<br />

K4<br />

4 Dec 2009<br />

Valient Thorr (USA) - punk, rock<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

4 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

Braco Doblekar Dom Big Band & Nina Strnad - jazz<br />

Jazz Klub Gajo<br />

4 Dec 2009, 21:30<br />

Fakofbolan (Croatia) - punk<br />

Gala Hala<br />

5 Dec 2009<br />

Ana Majiljan Vocal Ethic Trio - traditional Armenian<br />

The Slovenian Philharmonic<br />

6 Dec 2009, 18:00<br />

Polona Vetrih, vokal (Slo) & Sonja Pahor, piano (Slo):<br />

History of Love<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

7 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

KINO SISKA<br />

9. 12.,<br />

AT 21:00<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


1 CuLture & events<br />

Ysaye String Quartet (France) - classical<br />

The Slovenian Philharmonic<br />

8 Dec 2009, 19:30<br />

Finale in Black - black metal<br />

Channel Zero<br />

9 Dec 2009<br />

Open air events<br />

December 2009 in Ljubljana - a programme of festive<br />

events<br />

Old city centre<br />

3 Dec 2009 - 2 Jan 2010<br />

St Nicholas Fair<br />

Prešernov Trg<br />

3 - 6 Dec 2009, 10:00-20:00<br />

People, Let’s Turn on the Lights!<br />

Prešernov Trg<br />

3 Dec 2009, 17:00<br />

St. Nicholas Procession<br />

Old city centre<br />

5 Dec 2009, 17:00<br />

Concerts by primary school choirs<br />

Mestni Trg<br />

8 - 21 Dec 2009, 17:00<br />

Festive Book Fair<br />

Miklošičev Park<br />

10 - 31 Dec 2009, 10:00-21:00<br />

Christmas concert<br />

Mestni Trg<br />

24 Dec 2009, 17:00<br />

Grandpa Frost processions<br />

Old city centre<br />

26 - 30 Dec 2009,<br />

Children’s events<br />

Prešernov Trg<br />

26 - 30 Dec 2009, 11:00 -13:00 & 16:00 -<br />

18:00<br />

Street Theatre Festival<br />

Cobblers’ Bridge<br />

26 - 30 Dec 2009, 19:00-21:00<br />

New Year’s Eve Celebrations at Križanke<br />

Križanke Summer Theatre<br />

31 Dec 2009, 21:00-03:00<br />

New Year’s Eve Celebrations at Mestni Trg<br />

Mestni Trg<br />

31 Dec 2009, 21:00-03:00<br />

New Year’s Eve Celebrations at Prešernov Trg<br />

Prešernov Trg<br />

31 Dec 2009, 21:00-03:00<br />

Fireworks display<br />

launched from Castle Hill<br />

31 Dec 2009, 24:00<br />

Radio-Television Slovenia Symphony Orchestra -<br />

clasical music<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

10 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

Tinkara Kovač (Slo) - pop, rock<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

10 Dec 2009, 20:30<br />

The Stroj<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

11 Dec 2009, 21:00<br />

Ale Möller Band (Sweden) - world<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

11 Dec 2009, 20:15<br />

Ensemble Shanbehzadeh (Iran) - traditional Iranian<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

11 Dec 2009, 20:15<br />

Goran Bregović & Guča<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

12 December 2009, 20:00<br />

Klapa Subrenum (Croatia) - traditional Dalmatian<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

12 Dec 2009, 19:00<br />

Vlado Kreslin (Slo) with guests - folk rock<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

14 - 16 Dec 2009, 19:30<br />

Air (France) - electro pop<br />

Dvorana Tivoli<br />

14 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

Christmas concert: Oto Pesner, Pro Anima Singers,<br />

Primož Grašič Quartet - jazz, gospel<br />

Grand Hotel Union<br />

14 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

Noctiferia - death metal<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

15 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

Rambo Amadeus<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

17 Dec 2009, 21:00<br />

Eskobars (Slo) - rock<br />

Orto Bar<br />

23 Dec 2009, 22:00<br />

At the symphony Peter Eberts<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

1<br />

4<br />

Best of<br />

New Year’s<br />

Eve<br />

2010<br />

We were having trouble deciding where the best place to ring in 2010 in Slovenia was, so back in October we opened<br />

the polls and asked for your opinion on the matter. Well, all the votes have been counted, and the winner is, perhaps<br />

unsurprisingly, Prešernov Trg in the centre of Old Ljubljana (with 25% of the votes), which was able to fend off a<br />

late surge from Maribor (23%) and a respectable showing by the folks in Bled (15%). Ljubljana’s Inbox (10%) had the<br />

best showing of any indoor venue, and the old standby, one’s own home (6%) rounded out the top five. We’d like to<br />

thank everyone who participated in the voting, as well as the individual competitors - all of whom generously donated<br />

prizes for us to disperse amongst the voters - as well as our media partners, who helped us with promotion.<br />

On a related note, between now and the last week of January, voting will be open to determine the Best of 2010 for<br />

our special 10th anniversary issue in February. Categories will range from hotels and restaurants to music venues<br />

and cultural centres to burek and beer to strip clubs and sex shops. Check out Bestof.si to cast your vote, view the<br />

current results or just find out more info.<br />

1. Prešernov Trg in Ljubljana: No real surprise here. Prešeren Square is generally considered to be the heart and<br />

soul of not only Ljubljana, but all of Slovenia. It also draws the largest crowds come New Year’s Eve, most of whom<br />

will be sipping on mulled wine or warmed schnapps while they wait for midnight and the accompanying fireworks<br />

display from the castle.<br />

2. Trg Svobode in Maribor: The central square in Slovenia’s second city nearly topped Ljubljana as the place to be<br />

come 31 December, but fell short in the end. But you can rest assured that they’ll be a huge turnout nonetheless,<br />

with a full schedule including numerous musical act, an appearance by the mayor of course fireworks lasting till five<br />

in the morning.<br />

3. Circle of Friendship in Bled: Slovenia’s picturesque little alpine lake town may be the third most popular place to<br />

spend New Year’s Eve, but they can take heart in the fact that Bled is arguably the most popular tourist destination<br />

the other 364 days of the year. The official programme, which includes lots of activities for the kids, a torch-lit walk<br />

around the lake and a brass band in the evening, actually takes place a day early on 30 December, so it’s possible to<br />

combine with one or more of the other events taking place.<br />

4. Lady Salome New Year’s Eve Extravaganza at Inbox in Ljubljana: Considering that it was up against entire<br />

cities, the only club to feature on our list had an excellent showing with 10% of the votes. After last year’s critically<br />

acclaimed performance (which is no small feat for a club that plays mainly house music), Inbox has invited back Lady<br />

Salome to host once again. More special guests, celebrity sightings and one hell of a party are all guaranteed.<br />

5. Home: Some people have to work the next day - sad but true, we know.<br />

The best of the rest: Taverna in Koper (6%) Penzion Tripič in Bohinj (5%) Rožmarin in Maribor (2%)<br />

Hotel Krek in Bled (2%) Grand Hotel Union in Ljubljana (2%) Hotel Jezero in Bohinj (1%)<br />

2<br />

3


20 CuLture & events<br />

New Year’s Concert: Uroš Perić, vocal, piano, The Bluenote<br />

Quartet & The Pearlettes: A tribute to Ray Charles<br />

Grand hotel Union<br />

31 Dec 2009, 20:00<br />

Good for Cows (USA) - noise, jazz<br />

Klub Gromka<br />

18 Jan 2010<br />

Ian Bostridge, tenor (UK) & Julius Drake, piano (UK)<br />

The Slovenian Philharmonic<br />

19 Jan 2010, 19:30<br />

Bonecrusher Tour - death metal<br />

Kino Šiška<br />

19 Jan 2009<br />

Slovenian Chamber Choir - classical music<br />

The Slovenian Philharmonic<br />

24 Jan 2010, 19:00<br />

Michael Bolton (USA) - pop<br />

Dvorana Tivoli<br />

25 Jan 2010, 21:00<br />

Cinema<br />

Gay and Lesbian Film Festival 2009<br />

Kinodvor<br />

28 Nov - 6 Dec 2009<br />

Animateka - 6th animated film festival<br />

Kinodvor<br />

7 - 13 Dec 2009<br />

Exhibitions<br />

3 8 9 1 2 6 2 0 0 0 2 5 7<br />

MUZEJ REVOLUCIJE ZABRANJENO PUŠENJE<br />

Under the Napoleonic Eagle: 200th Anniversary of the<br />

Foundation of the Illyrian Provinces<br />

National Museum of Slovenia (Metelkova Street)<br />

14 Oct 2009 - 28 Feb 2010<br />

Antonio Živkovič (Slo) - retrospective exhibition of<br />

photographs<br />

City Art Museum<br />

16 Oct - 13 Dec 2009<br />

Rihard Jakopič and his Art Pavilion: Homage to the<br />

Master<br />

City Museum of Ljubljana<br />

27 Oct 2009 - 24 Jan 2010<br />

Dušan Tr šar (Slo) - retrospective sculpture<br />

exhibition<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

3 Nov - 15 Dec 2009<br />

Tihomir Pinter (Slo): Treasure - photographs<br />

Galerija Fotografija<br />

5 Nov - 30 Dec 2009<br />

Tao G. Vrhovec Sambolec (Slo): Virtual mirror<br />

- Rain<br />

Cankarjev Dom, Mala galerija<br />

5 Nov - 6 Dec 2009<br />

Werner Schuster (Austria): Vision - photographs<br />

KUD France Prešeren<br />

10 Nov - 9 Dec 2009<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

CuLture & events<br />

Ticket box: 030 310 110 · www.kinosiska.si<br />

DECEMBER 2009<br />

2. 12., at 20:00 JOSIPA LISAC<br />

3. 12., at 21:00 KILIMANJARO DARKJAZZ ENSEMBLE<br />

& BONG-RA<br />

4. 12., at 21:00 VALIENT THORR<br />

7. 12., at 21:00 RX:TX<br />

opening act MUŠKAT HAMBURG<br />

9. 12., at 21:00 ELVIS JACKSON<br />

(Yanoosh, Errorist, Octex)<br />

10. 12., at 20:30 TINKARA KOVAČ<br />

11. 12., at 21:00 THE STROJ<br />

12. 12., at 20:00 Closing night of the international<br />

ANIMATEKA festival<br />

15. 12., at 20:00 NOCTIFERIA<br />

17. 12., at 21:00 RAMBO AMADEUS<br />

opening act MORDENOM and DICKLESS TRACY<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

21


22 CuLture & events<br />

Different Galič (Slo): A retreospective exhibition of<br />

Štefan Galič - paintings, graphics<br />

International Centre of Graphic Arts<br />

11 Nov 2009 - 10 Jan 2010<br />

Nace Škoda (Slo): Mon ami, My French -<br />

photographs<br />

Galerija Loterije Slovenije<br />

11 Nov - 11 Dec 2009<br />

Jelka Kovačević (Serbia) - video<br />

City Art Museum<br />

16 Nov - 6 Dec 2009<br />

A Night at the Opera - An Exclusive Tour Through the<br />

Postcards<br />

National Museum of Slovenia<br />

18 Nov 2009 - 17 Jan 2010<br />

Istvàn Orosz (Hungary) - illustrations<br />

Galerija Avla NLB<br />

19 Nov 2009 - 14 Jan 2010<br />

Zoran Mušič: Public and private collections in<br />

Slovenia<br />

Ljubljana Museum of Modern Art<br />

24 Nov 2009 - 28 Feb 2010<br />

Tao G. Vrhovec Sambolec (Slo) - installation<br />

Galerija ŠKUC<br />

25 Nov - 13 Dec 2009<br />

This Merry Day of Culture - cultural institutions’ open<br />

door day<br />

Various location<br />

3 Dec 2009<br />

V a n j a B u č a n ( S l o ) : F o o l s a n d F o l l i e s -<br />

photographs<br />

Galerija Photon<br />

4 Dec 2009 - 8 Jan 2010<br />

Joachim Lothar Gartner (Austria), Barbara Höller<br />

(Austria), Hannes Mlenek (Austria), Gerjinde<br />

Thuma (Austria), Walter Weer (Austria) - group<br />

exhibition<br />

City Art Museum<br />

21 Dec 2009 - 15 Jan 2010<br />

Rajko Bizjak (Slo): Star dust: Incarnations -<br />

photographs<br />

Cankarjev Dom, Mala Galerija<br />

23 Dec 2009 - 17 Jan 2010<br />

Opera & Ballet<br />

Peter I. Tchaikovsky: The Nutcracker, A Christmas<br />

Story<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

28 -31 Dec 2009, 3 Jan & 5 Feb 2010, times vary<br />

J. Offenbach: The Rhine Nymphs - opera<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

12 - 13, 15-16 Jan 2010, 17:00 or 19:00<br />

Linz Landestheater (Austria): Lorenzaccio -<br />

contemporary dance performance<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

18 Jan 2010, 20:00<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

The one-time home of the Austrian composer Gustav<br />

Mahler, Ljubljana continues to inspire, nurture and produce<br />

a wide and eclectic mix of creative individuals and groups.<br />

Whether it’s the work of the Slovenian artists Richard<br />

Jakopič or Ivana Kobilca you’re here to see, or if you<br />

simply want to watch the latest Hollywood film, Ljubljana<br />

provides everything you need and more besides. For more<br />

cultural information - including museums, art galleries and<br />

churches - take a look at the Sightseeing section of this<br />

guide.<br />

Cinemas<br />

Foreign films are screened in the original language with<br />

Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are<br />

usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films<br />

tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger<br />

markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising<br />

something realeased months earlier in you own country.<br />

Tickets cost approximately €5.<br />

Kino Dvor C-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. (+386) 1239 22<br />

13, info@kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org.<br />

Kinoklub Vič A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 6, tel.<br />

(+386) 1241 84 11, www.kolosej.si. Recently renovated,<br />

this is a charming cinema to visit for a mix of Hollywood and<br />

other films.<br />

Kinoteka C-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 1547 15<br />

80, www.kinoteka.si. The place for non-Hollywood, art<br />

house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken<br />

language beforehand.<br />

Kolosej J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520 55 00,<br />

www.kolosej.si. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular<br />

films inside the BTC shopping area.<br />

Concert Halls<br />

Top-end concerts are also often held at Ljubljana Castle.<br />

Cvetličarna Mediapark J-1, <strong>Kranj</strong>čeva 20, tel. (+386)<br />

59 02 63 27, info@tntevents.net, www.tntevents.net.<br />

More a concert hall than a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna is<br />

a good place to check out on Friday nights. At other times<br />

it opens to host local and foreign bands, often big name<br />

ones, but on Fridays you can enter for free before midnight<br />

and dance to disco or house, mingling and jostling with the<br />

mainly student crowd. The venue itself is big but beyond that<br />

nothing to write home about, but the atmosphere is usually<br />

great and lets face it, a club can have all the funky décor<br />

there is to be had but if it doesn’t have the atmosphere, it<br />

doesn’t have much at all.<br />

Not even we can think up an appropriate caption for this one<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

CuLture & events<br />

Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko<br />

Razstavišče) C-1, Dunajska 18, tel. (+386)<br />

1300 26 00, fax (+386) 1300 26 28, info@gr-sejem.<br />

si, www.gr-sejem.si. Congresses, fairs and other large<br />

events.<br />

Festivalna Dvorana H-2, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386)<br />

12<strong>34</strong> 82 00, tajnistvo@pionirski-dom.si, www.pionirskidom.si.<br />

A large concert and event hall built by none other<br />

than local lad Plečnik.<br />

Hala Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 67 50,<br />

justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si.<br />

Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) B-3,<br />

Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@<br />

filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si. A century old in<br />

2008, the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs<br />

regularly with Lebanese-born chief conductor George<br />

Pehlivanian and various guest conductors. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 22:00.<br />

Cultural Centres<br />

To be informed on what’s going on in town, cultural centres<br />

provide up to date information on events, festivals, workshops<br />

and more.<br />

Cankarjev dom A-3, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 1241<br />

71 00, info@cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si. This complex from<br />

the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance,<br />

film, exhibitions and congresses.<br />

Goethe-Institut B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+386) 1476<br />

37 25, info@ljubljana.goethe.org, www.goethe.de/<br />

ins/si/lju. The German cultural centre: language courses,<br />

a library with newspapers and CDs, exhibitions and other<br />

events. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Thu 13:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00<br />

- 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Institut Français B-3, Breg 12, tel. (+386) 1200 05<br />

00, www.institutfrance.si. The French cultural institute<br />

offers language courses, exhibitions, films and other events.<br />

There’s also a library with newspapers, films and music. Q<br />

Open Mon & Tues 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-14:00. Closed<br />

Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun.<br />

Instituto Cervantes (Spanish cultural institute)<br />

C-4, Privoz 11, tel. (+386) 14 21 06 84, fax (+386)<br />

14 21 06 85, aula.liubliana@cervantes.es, www.<br />

cervantes.es. The Spanish institute has no library but<br />

does offer language courses and organises events. Q<br />

Open Mon & Tues 12:00-18:00, Fri 12:00-15:00. Closed<br />

Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun.<br />

Istituto Italiano di Cultura (Italian Cultural Institute)<br />

B-3, Kongresni Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1241 56 40,<br />

www.italcult.slo.it.tt. Language courses and a library<br />

with books, films and music from Slovenia’s most important<br />

neighbour. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) H-2, Trg Prekomorskih<br />

Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 31 01 00, info@<br />

kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. After nearly a year of<br />

renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its<br />

doors in August as an urban cultural centre featuring several<br />

state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces.<br />

Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance<br />

and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional<br />

and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around<br />

200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest<br />

multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over<br />

800 people. Check out their English language website for<br />

more info and a full schedule of events.<br />

KUD France Prešeren B-4, Karunova 14, tel. (+386)<br />

1283 22 88, kud@kud-fp.si, www.kud-fp.si. A venue for<br />

concerts, theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

23


24 CuLture & events<br />

Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre)<br />

D-2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org. Ljubljana’s<br />

famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of<br />

which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad<br />

audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in<br />

English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we<br />

can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative<br />

alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and<br />

attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as<br />

in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and<br />

how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself<br />

and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up.<br />

Österreich Institut (Austrian Institute) B-3, Trg<br />

Francoske Revolucije 6, tel. (+386) 14 26 99 70, www.<br />

oesterreichinstitut.si. German language courses, lectures,<br />

films, exhibitions and other events. Q Open Mon & Tue 10:00-<br />

18:30, Fri 10:00-16:00. Closed Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun.<br />

Galleries<br />

The best places to view and buy local art.<br />

Equrna B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23,<br />

equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.si. Modern art in an<br />

elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 13:00. No admission.<br />

Ganes Pratt B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1251 16<br />

33/(+386) 1251 16 <strong>34</strong>, info@ganes.si, www.ganes.si.<br />

This fairly new space (found in the alley next door to Equrna)<br />

features some of the most exciting new Slovenian artists.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Mestna galerija 1 B-3, Mestni Trg 5, tel. (+386)<br />

1241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestnagalerija.si.<br />

The largest fine art exhibition space in Ljubljana,<br />

next to the Town Hall. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00<br />

- 13:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Photon C-3, Poljanska 1, tel. (+386) 12 30 20 71, dejan@photon.si,<br />

www.photon.si. This small gallery just east<br />

of Tržnica and around the corner from Dragon Bridge hosts<br />

oft-changing exhibitions of contemporary photography with a<br />

focus on Eastern and especially Southeastern Europe. They<br />

also collaborate with several large European photography<br />

festivals and international art fairs. QOpen 14:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Škuc Gallery B-3, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421<br />

31 40, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. One of the cities<br />

most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous<br />

culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring<br />

some oft he most important people in contemporary art<br />

from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen 12:00<br />

- 20:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Libraries<br />

Knjižnica Otona Župančiča (Metropolitan Library)<br />

B-2, Kersnikova 2, tel. (+386) 1600 13 00, www.koz.si.<br />

The regional library for central Slovenia is the most popular library<br />

in the country, and has a wide range of English literature.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National &<br />

University Library) B-3, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1200<br />

11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Home of<br />

Slovenia’s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library<br />

is every researcher’s dream. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Buy Tickets<br />

Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance<br />

at the venue, or from ticket agencies.<br />

ESITI (Programski atelje A&Z) G-2, Cesta na<br />

Brdo 17, tel. (+386) 125 72 906, podpora@esiti.<br />

com, www.mojekarte.si.<br />

Eventim A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 24 05,<br />

info@eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en. Online<br />

ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including<br />

concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia<br />

and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy<br />

tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.<br />

Ljubljana Tourist Information Office at the<br />

Railway Station C-1, Trg Osvobodilne fronte 6, tel.<br />

(+386) 1433 94 75, ticzp@visitljubljana.si, www.<br />

visitljubljana.si. The events ticketing office inside the<br />

railway station Q October-May: 10:00-19:00, Saturday<br />

08:00-15:00, Sunday closedTourist Information<br />

Centre C-3, Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2, tel. (+386)<br />

1306 12 15, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.<br />

si. Tickets for concerts, shows and other events. Q<br />

Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-<br />

21:00. 22 December 2009 - 2 January 2010 Monday to<br />

Saturday 8:00-21:00.<br />

Theatres<br />

Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then<br />

there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are<br />

the box office opening hours.<br />

City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)<br />

B-2, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, info@mgl.si,<br />

www.mgl.si. The MGL has two stages that are the home of<br />

modern, progressive drama since the Yugoslav era. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Kavarna Union B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308<br />

17 63, www.gh-union.si. The stage of the Kavarna Union<br />

coffee house, inside the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Križanke Open Air Theatre B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije<br />

1, tel. (+386) 1241 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with<br />

great accoustics for various summertime concerts and events.<br />

National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče<br />

Drama) B-3, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11,<br />

drama@drama.si, www.drama.si. With its roots reaching<br />

back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays<br />

from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime,<br />

Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed.<br />

Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) C-3, Krekov<br />

Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.si. Taking as<br />

its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th<br />

century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over<br />

500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative music,<br />

design and other forms. It’s responsible for keeping scores<br />

of children entertained and amused every week. Keep an eye<br />

out for the musical puppets that come out of the small tower<br />

on the roof of the building on the hour. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00,<br />

Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday<br />

to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00,<br />

and during the hour prior to each performance.<br />

Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre B-2,<br />

Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. (+386) 1241 17 66, info@opera.<br />

si, www.opera.si. A beautiful neo-Renaissence theatre in<br />

the city centre that’s used for various classical performances.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

CuLture & events<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

2


2 ConFerenCes & FAirs<br />

Slovenia’s well-developed infrastructure, stable<br />

economy and position at the crossroads of Western,<br />

Central and Southeastern Europe make it a popular<br />

location for international conferences, trade fairs<br />

and exhibitions. While December and January aren’t<br />

exactly peak season, the two largest travel and tourism<br />

related events are taking place at the end of the<br />

latter.<br />

Conventa<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

en.conventa.si<br />

21 - 22 January<br />

The Slovenian Convention Bureau’s 2nd Southeast<br />

European Exhibition for Meetings, Events and Incentive<br />

Travel, will be held at the Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention<br />

Centre on 21 - 22 January 2010. The event brings<br />

together a wide selection of exhibitors from the tourism<br />

and international meetings industry in Southeast Europe,<br />

including convention bureaus, tourist boards, convention<br />

centres and hotels, event planning agencies, airlines and<br />

transport companies and various media for the purpose<br />

of arranging one-to-one meetings with top industry buyers<br />

who are responsible for organising international events for<br />

their firms. The exhibition’s focus on personal one-to-one<br />

meetings makes it the ideal venue for industry insiders to<br />

present their services and offerings to potential partners.<br />

Last year, over 3,000 such meeting took during the event.<br />

Following the official programme, several study tours will<br />

be available to participants who wish to explore first-hand<br />

what the region has to offer. A hosted buyer programme<br />

- covering return airfare, four-star hotel accommodation,<br />

local transfers and all meals - is also available for qualified<br />

individuals. See the official website for registration details<br />

and other info.<br />

Tourism and Leisure Show<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

www.ljubljanafair.com<br />

21 - 24 January 2009<br />

Held at the end of January, Slovenia’s largest tourism<br />

event brings together seemingly every tourism related<br />

business, organisation, association and government office<br />

in the country. The show not only aims to promote all of<br />

Slovenia’s numerous tourist offering, but also bring together<br />

people from all of tourism’s diverse sectors in order to<br />

facilitate cooperation as well as innovation. As the name<br />

suggests, the organisers devote special attention to leisure<br />

activities available in Slovenia and abroad, with foreign<br />

representative also presenting their respective countries.<br />

Participants range from ministries, airports and railways<br />

to casinos, ski resorts and restaurants to golf courses,<br />

caravan dealers and the publishers of high quality locallyproduced<br />

city guides.<br />

The Boat Show<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

22 - 25 January 2010<br />

Informative (Education Fair)<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

www.informativa.si<br />

29 - 30 January 2010<br />

Gastronomy, Ice Cream & Wine Fair<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

8 - 10 February 2010<br />

Home Builders Fair<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

2 - 7 March 2010<br />

Promarket (Marketing & Advertising Fair)<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

17 - 19 March 2010<br />

Collecta (International Collector’s Fair)<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

16 - 28 March 2010<br />

Conference & Exhibition Centres<br />

Cankarjev Dom<br />

Located in the centre of town, CD is Slovenia’s largest<br />

purpose-built congress centre in terms of auditorium<br />

style seating. Of its 22 multi-purpose halls and functional<br />

spaces, the largest has a capacity of up to 2,000<br />

delegates, and the entire venue can host up to 5,000<br />

visitors simultaneously.<br />

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre<br />

GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention<br />

centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of<br />

Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows.<br />

With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommodate<br />

thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking<br />

spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving<br />

by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from<br />

the main train and bus stations.<br />

Grand Hotel Union<br />

Built in 1905, this Art Nouveau masterpiece has a long<br />

history of hosting major events and prominent guests<br />

- it’s the only place the Queen of England stay when<br />

she’s in town. It also has the most extensive conference<br />

facilities of any hotel in Ljubljana, including its immaculate<br />

Grand Union Hall, which can seat up to 800 delegates.<br />

Hotel Mons<br />

Located along the ring road on the western edge of the<br />

city, Mons was Slovenia’s first designer hotel. Its stateof-the-art<br />

congress centre is comprised of six separate<br />

conference halls - the largest seating up to 600 people<br />

- and three smaller boardrooms, and the 111-room hotel<br />

itself is packed with amenities.<br />

Hotel Lev<br />

Formerly part of the InterContinental chain, the 5-star<br />

Hotel Lev (pronounced lay-OW, which is Slovene for ‘lion’),<br />

has a prime location in the centre of town and boast<br />

ample conference facilities. Its largest hall , which can<br />

also be divided into quarters, has a maximum reception<br />

capacity of 500 guests, or up to 380 seats.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Based on abundant anecdotal evidence and various<br />

informal surveys, Slovenes rank as some of the most<br />

active people in the world. Ask anyone what their plans<br />

are for the weekend and you’re almost guaranteed to hear<br />

the words cycling, hiking, skiing or tennis depending on<br />

the season - although even rain and snow hardly seem<br />

to discourage most people from packing up the kids and<br />

heading to the mountains or into the countryside for a day<br />

of family fun. If you’re similarly inclined, or just feeling guilty<br />

by comparison, there are virtually endless opportunities to<br />

get out there and work up a sweat.<br />

Badminton, Squash<br />

Bit <strong>Center</strong> Hotel F-3, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00<br />

55, hotel@bit-center.net, www.bit-center.net. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 23:00.<br />

Millenium J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 15<br />

00, millenium@btc.si, www.millenium.btc.si. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.<br />

Bowling<br />

Arena Vodafone live! - Gladiator (BTC <strong>Center</strong>)<br />

J-1/2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520 55 80, info@<br />

kolosej.si, www.arenalive.si. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />

12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.<br />

Klub300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1510 39 40,<br />

info@bowlingklub300.com, www.bowlingklub300.com.<br />

QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.<br />

In summer bowling is available every day from 17:00.<br />

Dance School<br />

Salsoteca A/B-1, Celovška 175, tel. (+386) 31 31 48<br />

05, www.salsoteca.si. QOpen 17:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat.<br />

Extreme Sports<br />

Biosfera B-4, Karunova 6, tel. (+386) 1280 16 07, info@<br />

biosfera.si, www.biosfera.si.<br />

Fitness<br />

Bit Sport <strong>Center</strong> J-2, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00<br />

55, hotel@bit-center.net. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.<br />

Fit&Fun <strong>Center</strong> B-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. (+386) 1239<br />

61 74, info@fit-funcenter.si, www.fit-funcenter.si.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

Konex center G-2, Cesta na Brdo 109, tel. (+386)<br />

1241 40 00, info@konex-center.si, www.konex-center.<br />

si. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.<br />

Sokol Group d.o.o. H-3, Koprska 72, tel. (+386) 1200<br />

27 50, fax (+386) 1200 27 57, uprava@sokolgroup.com,<br />

www.sokolgroup.com. Operates three fitness centres in<br />

Ljubljana with aerobics, saunas and tanning facilities. The gym<br />

near the city centre, located in Tivoli Park, also features a<br />

swimming pool and a sports nutrition shop. It’s the perfect<br />

place to go if your muscles need some pumping or you want<br />

to find a swimming pool close to work.<br />

Sokol Tivoli Fitness center A-1, Celovška 25, tel.<br />

(+386) 1300 37 55, sokoltivoli@sokolgroup.com,<br />

www.sokolgroup.com. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun<br />

10:00 - 20:00.<br />

Sunny H-1, Regentova 37, tel. (+386) 1513 44 44,<br />

www.sunny.si. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00<br />

- 21:00.<br />

TG Sportlife H-2, Bežigrad 13, tel. (+386) 41 81 11<br />

96, info@tgsportlife.net, www.tgsportlife.net. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

sports<br />

There’s no off season for cycling in Slovenia<br />

Paintball<br />

Kraljev Hrib Kamniška Bistrica 2, 1242 Stahovica,<br />

tel. (+386) 1832 72 50/(+386) 041 816 477, info@<br />

kraljevhrib-sp.si, www.kraljevhrib-sp.si. Located near<br />

the cable car at the foot of the Alps in Velika Planina, the<br />

‘King of the Hill’ sports and recreation centre is best known<br />

as the foremost promoter of one of Slovenia’s newest<br />

pastimes: paintball. Since they opened the country’s first<br />

paintball club in 1992, the sport has gone on to build quite<br />

a following among Slovenes, who turn out year-round to<br />

shoot their friends, family members and co-workers with<br />

balls of paint.<br />

Swimming<br />

Atlantis Water Park J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel.<br />

(+386) 1585 21 00, vodnomesto@btc.si, www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Admission<br />

€7,90/6,50.<br />

Kodeljevo F-3, Gortanova 21, tel. (+386) 1520 13 00,<br />

slovan@siol.net, www.slovan.si. Q Outdoor pool open<br />

09:00-19:00 in Aug. Admission €6/4,50.<br />

Laguna Spa & Fun H/J-1, Dunajska 270, tel. (+386)<br />

1568 39 13, laguna@gpl.si, www.laguna.si. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 22:00. Admission €13/11.<br />

Plavalni klub Ilirija A-1, Celovška 3, tel. (+386) 1439<br />

75 80, pkilirija@siol.net, www.plavalniklub-ilirija.si.<br />

Recreational <strong>Center</strong> Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel.<br />

(+386) 1431 51 50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.si,<br />

www.zavod-tivoli.si. QOpen 06:00 - 11:00; 18:00-23:00,<br />

Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Outdoor pool open<br />

09:00-19:00. Admission €6/4,50.<br />

Tennis<br />

Breskvar Tennis Academy J-1, Tesovnikova 74, tel.<br />

(+386) 1568 38 19, tennis.breskvar@siol.net, www.<br />

tenis-klub-breskvar.si. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />

Gradiant J-1, Pot K Savi 45, tel. (+386) 1537 30 47,<br />

www.gradiant.si. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />

Kodeljevo sports park F-3, Gortanova 21, tel. (+386)<br />

1520 13 00, www.slovan.si. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

2


2 where to stAy<br />

Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination,<br />

Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation<br />

options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect,<br />

prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the<br />

cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison<br />

with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean<br />

however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring<br />

you get yourself the room the want in the location you want<br />

and for the price you want during the summer is highly<br />

recommended.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

O Casino H Conference facilities<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

F Fitness centre L Guarded parking<br />

R Internet G Non-smoking rooms<br />

K Restaurant J Old town location<br />

D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

Over €170<br />

Grand Hotel Union Business B-2, Miklošičeva 3,<br />

tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel.<br />

business@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Attached to its<br />

sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the<br />

facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms<br />

and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to<br />

put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities<br />

include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms,<br />

secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and<br />

leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out<br />

their extensive website for further information. Q 327 rooms<br />

(singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446).<br />

PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh<br />

Grand Hotel Union Executive B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel.<br />

(+386) 1308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.ghunion.si.<br />

In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the<br />

Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully<br />

decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely<br />

old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of<br />

facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent<br />

restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent<br />

gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts<br />

the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 327<br />

rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546).<br />

PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh<br />

Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 21 55, info@<br />

hotel-lev.si, www.hotel-lev.si. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel<br />

started business in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s managed<br />

to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie,<br />

Kirk Douglas and Sting in its time. A glistening marble lobby<br />

serves as a fine overture to over 170 high quality, air-conditioned<br />

rooms from singles through to some exceedingly posh<br />

suites, all complete with facilities including soundproof windows,<br />

cable television and a choice of internet connections.<br />

Extras include popularbusiness and conference services, a<br />

restaurant specialising in some fine Mediterranean dishes<br />

and a large gambling hall in the basement Q 173 rooms<br />

(singles €200, doubles €240, business rooms €250, suites<br />

€300). POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


30 where to stAy<br />

Hotel Listings Policy<br />

Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical<br />

order within that band. The price band refers<br />

to the rack rate for a double room.<br />

Mons G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00,<br />

fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.si, www.<br />

hotel.mons.si. Along the highway to the west of the city<br />

and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel<br />

and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed. From<br />

the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed, Mons<br />

markets itself as the country’s first designer hotel) to the<br />

glorious rooms, this place really is just what the doctor<br />

ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym and sauna.<br />

The congress facilities are state of the art. Q 110 rooms<br />

(singles €112-210), doubles €137-235, suites €257-355).<br />

PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh<br />

€100-170<br />

Allegro B-3, Gornji Trg 6, tel. (+386) 59 119 620/(+386)<br />

041 557 908, info@allegrohotel.si, www.allegrohotel.si.<br />

We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy<br />

boutique hotel, but semantics aside there’s a lot to like. Just<br />

opened in mid-July, when we visited they were still putting the<br />

finishing touches on after six months of renovation. The 12<br />

individually designed rooms each feature a different colour<br />

scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most<br />

prevalent, along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique<br />

furnishings. Several large common areas add to the overall<br />

charm, including a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a<br />

breakfast room in the cellar that could easily be mistaken for<br />

a restaurant. Definitely a welcome addition to Ljubljana’s hotel<br />

scene. Q 12 rooms (singles €95-115, doubles €130-150).<br />

PJARBW hhhh<br />

Antiq B/C-3, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1421 35 60, fax<br />

(+386) 1421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.si, www.antiqhotel.<br />

si. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host<br />

of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming<br />

little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms<br />

have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge<br />

wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on<br />

the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the<br />

small budget economy rooms have been approached with a<br />

tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the<br />

superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and<br />

magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes<br />

a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors<br />

and minimalist furniture. Q 16 rooms (singles €61-135,<br />

doubles €156-172, extra bed €48). PJAR6IGW<br />

hhhh<br />

Austria Trend H-1, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) 1588<br />

25 00, fax (+386) 1588 25 99, ljubljana@austria-trend.<br />

at, www.austria-trend.at/lju. Two kilometres north of the<br />

city centre near the highway, this vast business class hotel<br />

that also caters to the better standard of tourist provides<br />

high quality rooms in four different categories from good to<br />

exceptionally good, plus a range of other excellent services<br />

and facilities including wellness centre, top notch conference<br />

amenities, restaurants, a fine cocktail bar and a fun oyster and<br />

sushi bar. Popular for both relaxing business stays as well as<br />

a variety of different functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find<br />

a better hotel of this type in the city. Q 214 rooms (singles<br />

€100-125, doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments<br />

€225). POHAUFGKDXW<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Best Western Premier Slon B-2, Slovenska <strong>34</strong>, tel.<br />

(+386) 1470 11 00, fax (+386) 1251 71 64, sales@<br />

hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the site of the<br />

oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the<br />

city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from<br />

a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton.<br />

The breakfast - served in a large, light and airy dining room - is<br />

a buffet affair of the highest quality: you should turn up early if<br />

you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness<br />

centre and sauna, free Wifi, home entertainment centres<br />

in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very<br />

heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package. Q 171<br />

rooms (singles €75 - 1<strong>34</strong>, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180,<br />

suites €201-335). PJHAR6UIGKDXW<br />

hhhh<br />

Central B-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1308 43 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1230 11 81, central.hotel@gh-union.si, www.<br />

centralhotel.si. The classic four-star hotel experience, the<br />

Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city,<br />

but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared<br />

up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is<br />

crammed with the latest useful information about the city<br />

and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the<br />

summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either,<br />

and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value<br />

stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value<br />

accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (singles €90-167,<br />

doubles €100-197, suites €286-<strong>34</strong>3). PJHAR6F<br />

GKDXCW hhhh<br />

City B-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 1239 00 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1239 00 01, info@cityhotel.si, www.cityhotel.<br />

si. With a reception like a studio set for a children’s television<br />

programme complete with bright colours and lots of<br />

comfortable furniture, the City Hotel provides a pleasing<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

where to stAy<br />

atmosphere and lots of wonderful added extras for a most<br />

satisfactory stay in the city. A combination of standard and<br />

superior rooms with lots of pleasing cream colours and<br />

hardwood floors in the latter, other goodies include free<br />

LAN internet in every room, a small library on the ground<br />

floor, and bicycle hire for the fitter section of the community.<br />

Good location too, smack bang in the city centre. Q<br />

200 rooms (singles €69-140, doubles €138-290, suites<br />

€373-888). PTJHAR6UILGKXW<br />

hhh<br />

M hotel H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1513 70 90, info@m-hotel.si, www.m-hotel.si.<br />

Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this fine,<br />

modern business class hotel comes with over 150 well appointed<br />

rooms, all with cable television, en suite bathrooms,<br />

free wireless internet access and 40 extra-length beds for<br />

those who need it. Excellent value for what you get, extras<br />

include restaurant, summer terrace, car rental and a hairdresser.<br />

Q 154 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €77-168).<br />

PHAR6ULGKXW hhh<br />

€70-100<br />

Ahotel H-3, Cesta Dveh Cesarjev <strong>34</strong>d, tel. (+386) 1429<br />

18 92, fax (+386) 1429 12 54, reception@ahotel.si,<br />

www.ahotel.si. A rather fabulous-looking endeavour for<br />

a three-star, heavy on the cool brown tones, woods and<br />

wickerwork, find it not far from the centre and aimed at both<br />

the business and independent traveller. The rooms are nicely<br />

decorated each coming with en suite bathrooms, flatscreen<br />

televisions and wireless internet access. Other facilities include<br />

secure parking, two conference facilities for 80 people,<br />

a nice bar, and the opportunity to borrow a laptop if yours<br />

is broken or lost in transit. Q 26 rooms (singles €70-110,<br />

doubles €80-150). PTALGKW hhh<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

31


32 where to stAy<br />

Kavarna Maček Rooms B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386)<br />

1425 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net. With rooms this beautiful<br />

and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy of other travellers.<br />

These rooms are along the river and above the popular<br />

Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed in a tasteful modern<br />

style. The rooms are mostly singles and doubles for couples,<br />

but is also space for the travelling family. In the morning, head<br />

down to the cafe for a coffee and breakfast and at night grab<br />

one last drink before heading up to your glorious temporary<br />

apartment. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. 4 rooms (singles €55,<br />

doubles €96). PTJA6GBKS<br />

Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, info@hotelpark.si,<br />

www.hotelpark.si. The brightly coloured tower block<br />

that is Hotel (and Hostel) Park conceals a number of good<br />

value standard, comfort, family rooms and suites, all providing<br />

different amenities depending on the cost. All of the rooms<br />

in hotel come with en suite facilities,TV, telephone, hairdryer,<br />

the comfort one also including a LAN internet connection, air<br />

conditioning and mini-bar. There’s a restaurant and bar as well,<br />

and a free internet connection in the lobby. Daytrips around<br />

Slovenia plus airport pick-up also available on request. Q<br />

200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80-150, apartments<br />

€150-180). PTJHAR6GXW hhh<br />

Pri Mraku B-3, Rimska 4, tel. (+386) 1421 96 00, www.<br />

daj-dam.si Over 30 clean and tidy rooms, all with en suite<br />

facilities, cable television and internet access in one of the<br />

best locations in the city. More of a guesthouse in the classic<br />

German style than a hotel, there is at least a decent restaurant<br />

and a small garden to give the place a slight hotel-type feel.<br />

Not as cheap as many similar places of the same standard<br />

in Ljubljana, what you lose in payment here you more than<br />

make up for in accessibility to the main sights. Q 30 rooms<br />

(singles €70-102 doubles €79-1<strong>34</strong>, apartments €168-202).<br />

PJARLGKXW hhh<br />

Stil K-2, Litijska 188, tel. (+386) 15 48 43 43, hotel@<br />

hotel-stil.si, www.hotel-stil.si. Located in a quiet rural<br />

setting near the ring road on the eastern edge of the city,<br />

Stil is a convenient choice for those with their own transport<br />

who are looking to avoid the noise and activity of the city<br />

centre. The modern building houses a range of rooms and<br />

apartments, and there’s a large parking lot for guests. All facilities<br />

are air-conditioned and come with en suite bathrooms,<br />

mini-bars and wireless internet. A small meeting room is<br />

also available. Q 24 rooms (singles €72, doubles €75-90,<br />

triples €108, apartments €90-170) . PHARLG<br />

hhh<br />

Under €70<br />

Bit <strong>Center</strong> J-2, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00 55, fax<br />

(+386) 1548 00 56, hotel@bit-center.net, www.bit-center.<br />

net. A combined hotel, sports centre and youth hostel 10 minutes<br />

east of the centre, rooms are basic but clean, coming with<br />

en suite bathrooms facilities and cable television in every room.<br />

Budget means budget here, so there are no fancy restaurants or<br />

bars, just a snack counter and little else. Sports facilities including<br />

badminton and squash courts, fitness centre and gym. The<br />

‘Working Inn’ hostel option provides excellent value rooms that<br />

sleep up to 10 people with shared bathroom facilities. Q 39<br />

rooms (singles €<strong>34</strong>,50, doubles €46, triples €47,50, dorm beds<br />

€15). Breakfast (€3,50) not included. AGBKDW h<br />

Read more online<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Beograd 1 page<br />

where to stAy<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

33


<strong>34</strong> where to stAy<br />

NEW<br />

<strong>Center</strong> B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. +386 15 20 06 40/+386<br />

41 26 33 47, fax +386 15 20 06 44, info@hotelcenter.<br />

si, www.hotelcenter.si. Only opened back in July, this<br />

eight-room family-run affair is hard to beat in terms of location<br />

and price. The rooms are a bit on the Spartan side, but not<br />

without their own charm, owing in large part to the premises:<br />

a renovated 19th-century government building with high ceilings<br />

and splashes of exposed stonework. Run by the same<br />

people as Café Compañeros downstairs, there are often<br />

packages available - including free dinner and/or drinks - if<br />

you’re staying at least two nights and inquire about them in<br />

advance. Q 8 rooms (doubles €60-75).<br />

Emonec B-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1200 15 20, fax<br />

(+386) 1200 15 21, hotelemonec@siol.net, www.hotelemonec.com.<br />

This clean and slightly hidden hotel actually<br />

gives you front row seats to the city as it sits right inside the<br />

Prešernov trg area. The accomodations are sparse and while<br />

they have no restaurant there are no shortage of options<br />

as soon as you walk out of the door. A great choice for the<br />

traveller on a budget. Q 39 rooms (singles €59, doubles<br />

€67-77, triples €90, apartments €105). JHAR6UW<br />

hh<br />

Medno Medno 54, Medno, tel. (+386) 1362 61 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1362 61 16, recepcija@hotel-medno.si, www.<br />

hotel-medno.si. Nine kilometres out of Ljubljana on the road<br />

towards <strong>Kranj</strong>, the Medno provides good accommodation<br />

in a range of rooms. This good-value hotel also gives the<br />

business traveller opportunities to unwind with the massage<br />

and Jacuzzi services. Q 93 beds (singles €54-69, doubles<br />

€68-88, suites €88-108). PHAR6LGKXW<br />

hhh<br />

Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430 33<br />

70, fax (+386) 1 430 33 75, info@stari-tisler.com, www.<br />

stari-tisler.com. Cheap and cheerful budget accommodation<br />

in a charming old building in the city centre. There are six<br />

rooms, which you will find at the top of a glorious staircase,<br />

and which, while they share bathroom facilities, do come<br />

with televisions. The triples are great value. There’s a good<br />

breakfast included, which in the summer is served outside in<br />

the courtyard, and an internet corner. Q 6 rooms (doubles<br />

€44, triples €66). PJALGBK<br />

Bed & Breakfast<br />

Slamič B-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 82 33,<br />

info@slamic.si, www.slamic.si. An excellent value bed and<br />

breakfast in the heart of the city with the added bonus of a<br />

fabulous in-house café. The rooms are spacious and modern,<br />

all with their own en suite facilities, large comfortable beds<br />

and free LAN internet access. Simple breakfasts are served in<br />

the aforementioned café, which also has a delightful terrace.<br />

Within easy walking distance of Tivoli Park and the old town.<br />

Q 11 rooms (singles €65-95, doubles €80-107, suites for<br />

1-7 people €135-280). JHARLG hhh<br />

Hostels<br />

Alibi B-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. (+386) 1251 12<br />

44, fax (+386) 125 11 245, info@alibi.si, www.alibi.<br />

si. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better located hostel in<br />

Ljubljana. Right in the heart of the centre of the city, Alibi is a<br />

hostel that is actually a lot bigger than it originally seems. In<br />

here you’ll find all types of room. You can choose how many<br />

people you want to share the room with depending on how<br />

much you enjoy snoring. All of them decorated in different<br />

graffiti motifs. The staff is super friendly and always at hand<br />

if you need something. Try to get the cooler rooms. One has<br />

a great balcony overlooking the river and there’s another<br />

one that’s a separate apartment on the top of the building.<br />

There’s a locked room next to it with metal doors that looks<br />

like a prison cell, but it actually adds to the atmosphere. Q<br />

Open 24 hours. 106 beds (double bed €20, four bed private<br />

€17, six bed private €20, dormitory €17). PJAR<br />

6LEGW h<br />

Azur H-2, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 40 636 205.<br />

Located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet student and residential<br />

neighbourhood southwest of the city centre, this cosy hostel<br />

occupying an apartment above a popular Italian restaurant of<br />

the same name has the cheapest beds in town. The friendly<br />

owner, Marko, provides free pick-up from both the airport<br />

and train station, and will generally do what he can to make<br />

you feel at home. If you come on your own bus 14 stops right<br />

across the road and you can’t miss the bright orange building.<br />

However, there’s not always someone at reception so it’s a<br />

good idea to arrange your arrival in advance. Q 20 beds<br />

(11-bed dorm €12, 9-bed dorm €13). ALK<br />

Celica D-2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1230 97 00,<br />

info@souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.com. Ljubljana’s<br />

legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the<br />

stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as<br />

an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of<br />

Celica’s rooms have been kept almost as they were, providing<br />

a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind<br />

bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to<br />

sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled<br />

guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen,<br />

laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire.<br />

The hostel’s café serves an excellent value set lunch every<br />

day. Q 29 rooms (rooms €23-25 per bed, dorms €16-18 per<br />

bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

where to stAy<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

3


3 where to stAy<br />

Fluxus B-2, Tomšičeva 4, tel. (+386) 1251 57 60, info@<br />

fluxus-hostel.com, www.fluxus-hostel.com. A clean,<br />

brightly-colored, and award-winning hostel in a beautiful old<br />

building in the center of town, its small size actually adds to<br />

its comfort. The hostel features two large dormitory style<br />

rooms with bunk beds and one bathroom for all to share, plus<br />

one more private room with its own bathroom facilities. It also<br />

has a working kitchen and lounge area, and a friendly staff<br />

that make you feel happy to be there. Q 3 rooms (double<br />

€33,33, dormitory €21,11). JR6G hh<br />

Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, fax (+386)<br />

1300 25 18, info@hotelpark.si, www.hotelpark.si. Located<br />

inside the same building as the Park Hotel and offering<br />

the same communal facilities, Hostel Park provides a range of<br />

decent quality communal rooms for two to four people, some<br />

coming with en suite bathroom facilities and some having to<br />

share. Q 42 rooms (twin €23-29, quad dorm beds €19-23).<br />

JAGKXW<br />

Vila Veselova A-3, Veselova 14, tel. (+386) 59 92 67<br />

21, desk@v-v.si, www.v-v.si. Owned by the same people<br />

who run the excellent Žmauc bar, this fairly new hostel in a<br />

lovely old villa in the western part of the city centre is aimed at<br />

the young travelling crowd who like to relax. Simply furnished<br />

with a range of rooms and dormitories, some with and some<br />

without en suite facilities and all named after a different<br />

colour, extras include nice big balconies and free internet.<br />

Q 8 rooms (singles €28, 4-bed dorms €22, 6-bed dorms<br />

€20, 8-bed dorms €17). JARLGW hh<br />

Zeppelin B-2, Slovenska 47, 2nd floor, tel. (+386) 51<br />

637 436, info@zeppelinhostel.com, www.zeppelinhostel.com.<br />

Snug inside a famous building of the name Evropa<br />

from the XIX century, this friendly and social hostel is just a<br />

few steps out of the old town and within walking distance<br />

of the train and bus stations. Zeppelin is the perfect reside<br />

for the budget traveler, with everything you may need in<br />

terms of entertainment and tourist attractions in immediate<br />

locality. Breakfast is included with your stay. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 22:00. Double room 24.99 €, 4-bed room dorms<br />

21.49€, 6-bed dorms room 19.49 €, 8-bed room dorms<br />

18.49 €.JGW<br />

Apartment rental<br />

All the benefits of a private apartment without the costs<br />

of a hotel, plus you get to shop for your own breakfast too.<br />

Asdom Apartments C-2, Vidovdanska 5, tel. (+386)<br />

41 662 928, info.asdom@gmail.com, www.asdom.si.<br />

Rents out studio apartments in the centre of Ljubljana for<br />

both short and extended stays. All apartments are equipped<br />

with wireless internet and cable television. Excellent service,<br />

especially if your survival language is English. Q 7 aparments<br />

(€55). PJAW<br />

Tour AS B-2, Mala Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 14<strong>34</strong> 26 60, fax<br />

(+386) 14<strong>34</strong> 26 64, info@apartmaji.si, www.apartmaji.<br />

si. These are the people to talk to if you’re interested in<br />

renting an apartment during your stay in Ljubljana. From<br />

an office just a few minutes walk directly south of the main<br />

train and bus stations, they operate over 40 units of varying<br />

sizes located all around the city. On their website you<br />

can find incredibly detailed descriptions of each apartment<br />

from photos and floor plans to available amenities such as<br />

microwaves and dishwashers. They can also arrange day<br />

trips to just about everywhere in Slovenia. Q 40 apartments<br />

(€59-154). PTJAR6UL<br />

Around Ljubljana<br />

Ambient Aškerčeva 6a, 1230 Domžale, tel. (+386) 8<br />

200 20 00, info@ambienthotel.si, www.ambienthotel.si.<br />

This recently opened hotel in the quiet suburb of Domžale is<br />

some 12km north of Ljubljana and offers great access to those<br />

wishing to explore Slovenia’s alpine regions. Surrounded by<br />

greenery the hotel has a fresh modern appearance and its<br />

tastefully designed rooms are fitted with all the modern comforts.<br />

Free transportation from the airport can be arranged,<br />

as can use of conference facilities, a large picnic area, beach<br />

volleyball court and various Thai massages for additional<br />

charges. Q 70 rooms (singles €50-80, doubles €70-130,<br />

suites €160-240). HA6LBDW hhh<br />

Grandvid Dolenjska 336, tel. (+386) 13 60 22 00, fax<br />

(+386) 13 60 22 10, info@grandvid-hotel.com, www.<br />

grandvid-hotel.com. Despite being located in a village just<br />

south of Ljubljana proper, a massive development of apartment<br />

blocks sprouting up across the traffic-choked road gives the<br />

surrounding area about as much charm as an industrial zone,<br />

which would seem to defeat the purpose of staying outside<br />

the city in the first place. The rooms themselves are comfortable<br />

enough and have all the standard amenities, though the<br />

prominently displayed four-star rating seems a bit of a stretch.<br />

Although the hotel can hardly be faulted for the actions of its<br />

neighbours, there are much better options both in and out of<br />

the city centre. Q 21 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, suites<br />

€120). PTHAULGBKW hhhh<br />

Couchsurfing<br />

Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are<br />

literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering<br />

their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors<br />

for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social<br />

networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone<br />

interested in hanging out with locals and saving some<br />

cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss<br />

experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give<br />

you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective<br />

hosts. Info http://www.couchsurfing.org/mapsurf.html<br />

Airport hotels<br />

Dvor Jezeršek Zgornji Brnik 63, tel. (+386) 4 252<br />

94 00, www.dvor-jezersek.si. Just 2km from Ljubljana<br />

Airport (and only 4 kilometres from the Krvavec ski<br />

resort) this spacious family-run hotel that’s been in business<br />

since 1768 hotel makes for a good night’s sleep before<br />

an early departure or after a late arrival. Apart from<br />

decent rooms, there are several romantic apartments for<br />

hire and there’s both a gostilna (tavern) on site as well as<br />

an elegant restaurant. The large conference rooms allow<br />

you to fly in, do business and fly out without even having<br />

to go to Ljubljana. Q 18 rooms (singles €80-90, doubles<br />

€120-130). PTHRUILGKW<br />

Sobe Jana Vopolje 29, 4207 Cerklje Na Gornjskem,<br />

tel. (+386) 40 216 260, www.turizem-vopovlje.<br />

com/sobe-jana.htm. A converted family home in the<br />

village of Vopovlje, Sobe Jana is a decent option only<br />

3km from Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport in Brnik. The<br />

four rooms and three apartments are comfortable if<br />

not overly luxurious, and are one of the better values<br />

around with the latter starting at only €12 per person.<br />

Q 7 rooms (singles €22-26, doubles €28-<strong>34</strong>, triples<br />

35-40, apartments €36-42). PTA6L<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish<br />

with new and more exotic offerings opening all<br />

the time. As of late we’ve been eating quite a bit<br />

of burek on the go, but when we do find time to sit<br />

down for a proper meal we tend to do so at either Le<br />

Coq Blanc or Kavalino. The following reviews are by<br />

no means complete, but do offer a bit of everything<br />

for everyone, from the finest white-tablecloth options<br />

available to the more amusingly backwards<br />

establishments complete with greasy cutlery and<br />

bumbling waiters.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

E Live music S Take away<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

R Internet L Guarded parking<br />

O Casino J Old Town location<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

B Outside seating V Home delivery<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

Asian<br />

Bangkok Street J-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.<br />

(+386) 15 23 31 65, fax (+386) 15 23 31 66, www.bangkokstreet.si.<br />

Settle into a table with views of an artfully-lit<br />

perforated metal structure just beyond the ceiling-high windows<br />

at the back of this stylish new eatery, and you just might be able<br />

to forget that you’re staring at the façade of a parking garage<br />

from a shopping mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting<br />

to the nearest telephone to call home and sing its praises, it’s<br />

better than you might expect given the location and you’ll be<br />

hard-pressed to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the<br />

portions are huge and there’s also a relatively inexpensive allyou-can-eat<br />

buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€4-16). PTAULGW<br />

China Fast Food C-2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. (+386)<br />

31 56 82 78. Six little tables inside a small restaurant on the<br />

ground floor of Centar Ledina (across the park opposite the<br />

main train station), constantly busy at lunchtime with locals<br />

tucking into food cooked in a single wok by a Chinese man<br />

visible through a large plate glass window. Reasonably priced,<br />

fast, and with vegetarian options as well, the food is pretty<br />

good, and worth investigating if you find yourself here with an<br />

empty stomach and not a lot of time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.<br />

Closed Sun. (€4.70-6.80).PJAUGS<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

3


3 restAurAnts<br />

Running Sushi & Wok J-3, Jurčkova 223 (Supernova),<br />

tel. (+386) 1427 68 88. When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt<br />

sushi place opened we had mixed feelings: a second option<br />

to get our raw fish fix was certainly welcomed, but we were a<br />

bit leery that it would see enough traffic to inspire confidence<br />

in the all-important freshness department. But as far as we<br />

can tell it’s OK. Everything more or less tastes like it should,<br />

there’s a good variety of dishes meandering around on separate<br />

hot and cold belts and an all Asian staff wait attentively<br />

to swoop in and clear emptied plates and lids. Well worth<br />

the trip down to Rudnik. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00<br />

- 15:00. All you can eat €9.90-11.90. PAL<br />

Shambala B-3/4, Križevniška 12, tel. (+386) 1426<br />

30 14/(+386) 031 843 833, info@shambala.si, www.<br />

shambala.si. Great value Asian food in a quiet, side street<br />

location. Head out back to the covered garden and order any<br />

of the tremendous stir fries, though do not forego the starters:<br />

tempura made with shrimps make great nibbles. There<br />

is plenty for vegetarians on the menu (not always the case<br />

in these parts). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK<br />

Sushimama B-3, Wolfova 12/(+386) 40 70 20 70, www.<br />

sushimama.si. The first - and for a long time only - Japanese<br />

restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s<br />

interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a<br />

subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of<br />

putting the sushi chef on display as he works in the restaurant.<br />

The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from<br />

soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodlebased<br />

dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an<br />

extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking<br />

its territory as the first and finest of its kind. QOpen 11:00<br />

- 23:00. Closed Sun. (€11-24).PJARGBXS<br />

Zlati Most Poljanska 7, tel. (+386) 41 952 178. Just<br />

opened in mid-July, Zlati Most (or Golden Bridge) is the third<br />

Chinese restaurant to stake its claim to a narrow 50m stretch<br />

of road a bit east of the central market - and far be it for us to<br />

question the wisdom of this, but let’s just say the other two<br />

don’t exactly do a roaring trade. Nevertheless we quite like this<br />

place. How can you not when the menu features dishes such as<br />

Drunk chicken, Ant climb tree and Flied dragon with phoenix?<br />

Throw in cheap Chinese beer and spirits, huge portions and<br />

strangely hypnotic Chinese pop music and they have our business.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (€3.60-12.30). JNS<br />

Balkan<br />

Harambaša B-4, Vrtna Ulica, tel. (+386) 41 84 31 06,<br />

Ćevapčići (che-VAP-chi-chi) - the delicious Balkan staple of<br />

juicy barbequed lamb or beef - is served in abundance here.<br />

This ćevapnica (che-vap-nitsa - cafe/restaurant serving<br />

ćevapčići) has a quaint and cosy dining room, complete with<br />

old photos, antiques and a Balkan soundtrack. Aside from<br />

the odd American, the clientele is refreshingly local - and<br />

aside from the air-conditioning you could easily be in a village<br />

in the Bosnian countryside. Located on quiet backstreet,<br />

Harambaša is a great place for a beer, chat and, of course,<br />

lots of lovely ćevapčići. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00<br />

- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (€5-8). PYS<br />

Rio-Momo A-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 31 751<br />

751/(+386) 1425 32 26, www.rio-momo.com. Situated<br />

between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s<br />

main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the<br />

most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm<br />

and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend<br />

the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although<br />

vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose<br />

from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table<br />

outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PJA<br />

Sarajevo ‘84 B-2, Nazorjeva 12. Just opened in early<br />

September, the city’s newest Bosnian restaurant occupies the<br />

subterranian premises of a recently closed jazz club and sports<br />

an interior somewhat reminiscent of a pub - walls plastered<br />

with memorabilia from the 1984 Winter Olympics, arched brick<br />

ceilings and old black and white Yugoslav tourist videos playing<br />

on a projection screen. The menu only has two main dishes, so<br />

ordering comes down to which shape you prefer your meat to<br />

take: sausages (ćevapčići) or a patty (pljeskavica), both of which<br />

come with bread and diced onions. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />

Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-4.80). JAS<br />

Buffet<br />

Fresco B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 1430 33 30. A basic<br />

modern canteen geared towards the time-poor lunchtime office<br />

worker crowd, this bright orange restaurant looking not unlike the<br />

inside of a train (albeit a rather large one) provides both helpyourself<br />

and waiter service and is good value for money if nothing<br />

else. Highlights include ready-to-grab meals from the hotplates<br />

by the entrance and a slightly better than average salad bar.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (€2-39). PAGBSW<br />

Restaurant 2000 B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1476<br />

69 25. A vast underground filling station for budget-conscious<br />

city slickers such as construction workers, Korean businessmen<br />

and of course the obligatory sprinkling of students. Grab<br />

a tray, throw on some meat, mashed potato, rice, salad, whatever,<br />

don’t forget to pick up a soft drink, pay and eat. Find it deep<br />

inside the bowels of Maxi Market. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-7). PJGBSW<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Fish<br />

Operna Klet B-2, Zupančičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1252 70<br />

03. Tucked away just off the main road and down a flight of<br />

steps, those in the know who enjoy fine fish dining are apt to<br />

totter down the aforementioned stairway and feast in simple<br />

surroundings on an extensive menu including octopus salad,<br />

scampi and Dalmatian squid. The décor has a aquatic theme<br />

too, and you’ll not hear a lot of English spoken. Recommended<br />

for both its unpretentiousness and the quality of the food.<br />

Be warned though, the place can fill to bursting at lunchtime<br />

during the week. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sun. (€6-20). PJA6UGB<br />

Ribca B-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 14<br />

25 15 44, www.ribca.si. Somewhat hidden below Plečnik’s<br />

famous colonnaded arcade on the banks of the Ljubljanica,<br />

Ribca is the city’s best known seafood restaurant and worth<br />

stopping by as much for the architecture as the food. The various<br />

fish, squid and shrimp dishes on their no-nonsense menu<br />

are pretty much guaranteed to be fresh as it’s all sourced from<br />

the local fish market located right next door. The lunch menu<br />

is a great value at €7.50, but make sure to stop by early as it’s<br />

only open during the day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00<br />

- 14:00. Closed Sun. (€3.30-7.70). JA6BS<br />

French<br />

Le Coq Blanc B-3, Gornji Trg 4, tel. (+386) 30 35 38 48,<br />

lecoqblanc@gmail.com. Occupying a large house in the heart<br />

of Old Town, you have a choice of several intimate dining rooms<br />

all boasting cosy antique furniture or outdoor seating on both<br />

Gornji Trg and in a quiet corner of Levstikov Trg on the opposite<br />

side of the building. The food is excellent and the multi-course<br />

daily specials are a great value. We also appreciate the small<br />

touches like home-made bread, lemon slices in our water and<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

genuinely friendly service. Although it is still fairly new, we’re<br />

amazed that this place isn’t nearly as popular as it should be.<br />

Highly recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JAIB<br />

Indian<br />

Namasté B-3, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 14 25 01 59, www.restavracija-namaste.si.<br />

Lots of greens, oranges and golds and<br />

some nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere inside a<br />

super restaurant specialising primarily in dishes from Rajastan<br />

and the Punjab. Using the best spices imported directly from<br />

India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes, both meat and<br />

vegetarian options are made individually from mild to extra hot.<br />

By all accounts the food is excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />

11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS<br />

International<br />

As B-3, Čopova 5/a, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386) 1425 88<br />

22, www.gostilnaas.si. Exquisite presentation and service<br />

mark the legendary As out as one of the most expensive<br />

dining experiences in the city. Brimming with antiques and wellbehaved<br />

waiters, sit amidst opulent detritus and feast from a<br />

menu including more fancy dishes than you could eat in a year<br />

including baked potatoes with caviar, lamb cutlet with honey and<br />

truffles plus a battalion of fabulous desserts. QOpen 11:00<br />

- 24:00. (€4.50-31)PJAGB<br />

Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700,<br />

fax (+386) 147 02 708, www.hotel.mons.si. The menu at<br />

the flagship restaurant of the Mons Hotel and Congress Centre<br />

is a sublime mix of the traditional and the contemporary. Classic<br />

dishes are brought to life with modern twists, such as the<br />

saddle of lamb served with pears and polenta. QOpen 12:00<br />

- 23:00. Closed Sun. €16. PTHULGKW<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

3


40 restAurAnts<br />

Bachus <strong>Center</strong> B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1241 82<br />

48, info@bachus-center.com, www.bachus-center.com.<br />

Subterranean dining opposite the Philharmonia in the heart of<br />

the city, eat a wide range of international dishes under vaulted<br />

ceilings. As well as changing specials, the menu includes a fixed<br />

list of treats including beef with truffles, octopus and a few vegetarian<br />

options. Q Mon 08:00-23:00, Tue-Sat 08:00-06:00,<br />

Holidays 18:00-06:00, Sun Closed (€7-20). PJAEG<br />

BSW<br />

Cubo J-2, Šmartinska 55, tel. (+386) 1521 15 15, www.<br />

cubo-ljubljana.com. Cubo’s difficult location doesn’t stop those<br />

foreigners and locals who appreciate good food and atmosphere<br />

from turning up here in droves every day. Taking the very best<br />

of the dining experience from décor to service to of course the<br />

food, they’ve come up with a truly inspiring place indeed. Opting<br />

for a minimalist approach with lots of dark woods and cool greys,<br />

the setting attracts everyone from business professionals to<br />

families who come to feast on a regularly changing menu of<br />

dishes including many inspired from Italy and the Mediterranean.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€3-60).<br />

PAULGW<br />

Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 59 712 368,<br />

cupiterija@gmail.com. Part café, part bar, part restaurant:<br />

Čupiterija, or Hijo de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original.<br />

Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down from Town Hall,<br />

they serve lunch Monday to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In<br />

lieu of menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled (in both English<br />

and Slovene) across a giant blackboard out front, and often<br />

include several pasta, steak and salad selections along with a<br />

couple random choices like chicken curry or artichoke risotto.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (€6-10).TJAUGBK<br />

NEW<br />

JB B-1/2, Miklošičeva 17, tel. (+386) 14 33 13<br />

58/(+386) 14 74 72 19, www.jb-slo.com. Firmly entrenched<br />

as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining<br />

experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez<br />

Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s<br />

more imposing secessionist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix<br />

of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing<br />

you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety<br />

of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal<br />

specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as<br />

bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is<br />

the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with<br />

wine. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Jurman F-2, Zaloška 151, tel. (+386) 51 358 358, www.<br />

jurman-sp.si. Located on the outskirts of town, this popular<br />

family-friendly gostilna packs in the locals with a menu that<br />

seems to have a bit of everything and a somewhat kitschy<br />

atmosphere that manages to include knights, a waterfall and<br />

an video arcade all under the same roof. It’s a good budgetconscious<br />

option and the food isn’t half-bad either. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 22:00. (€5-12).PTAULGBS<br />

Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1251 65<br />

55. Downstairs for vast pizzas served by a mixture of indifferent<br />

and pleasant waiters to a mixed clientele sat both inside and out.<br />

Upstairs for more of the same, only with the addition of grilled<br />

meats and other classic Slovenian dishes. Now an institution,<br />

the terraces get thoroughly clogged with business professionals<br />

and tourists alike during the summer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />

12:00 - 24:00. (€5-10). PTJA6UGBSW<br />

Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe B-3, Stari Trg 9, tel. (+386)<br />

1425 01 18, www.lunchcafe.net. Acres of stripped pine<br />

and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, lunchtime feasts<br />

include some truly memorable home-made soups, large and<br />

tasty salads and a few restrained yet delicious pasta dishes.<br />

Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and<br />

waiting for a table or simply having to go somewhere else is<br />

a common occurrence. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00<br />

- 23:00. (€3-19). PJA6UGBXSW<br />

Manna B-4, Eipprova 1a, tel. (+386) 1283 52 94, www.<br />

kulinarika-manna.com. This high-class and expensive restaurant<br />

bills itself as heavenly food here on earth, and as soon<br />

as you enter the interior positively glitters. The menu features<br />

some of the most rarefied ingredients Slovenia has ever seen<br />

such as Japanese wagyu beef as well as a full selection of both<br />

Slovenian wines and some of the best wines and spirits from<br />

around the world. Every detail is just so in this beautiful space<br />

and it was thus no surprise when the restaurant recently had<br />

the distinction of being visited for lunch by American First Lady<br />

Laura Bush., you’ll see the picture commemorating the event<br />

as you enter the door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />

(€10-30). PTJA6UGBS<br />

Maxim B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1476 69 80,<br />

info@maxi.si, www.maxi.si. In the heart of the city centre<br />

this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine<br />

menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes,<br />

soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s<br />

a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with<br />

water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular<br />

with professional locals and foreigners alike. QOpen 12:00<br />

- 18:00; 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€40<br />

and more). PJA6LEGBS<br />

Most C-3, Petkovškovo nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) 1232<br />

81 83, www.restavracija-most.si. As soon as you arrive to<br />

this restaurant you’ll notice a framed food quality award next<br />

to the door. That gives a hint of what this restaurant has in<br />

store for you. It’s fairly obvious that a lot of thought went into<br />

the décor of this place. The pictures had wooden frames that<br />

had deliberately not been polished. Underneath them there<br />

was beautiful handwriting on the walls. It all gave the place a<br />

very rustic and cosy ambiance. Even the music was soothing.<br />

Very romantic. The cutlery hanging from the lamps marred the<br />

effect a bit, but that’s really nitpicking. The best part was, of<br />

course, the food. Simply exquisite and very well decorated.<br />

It’s great. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PJAGK<br />

Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, www.<br />

plato.si. Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s<br />

most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office<br />

tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this<br />

newer restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling<br />

square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a<br />

focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and<br />

can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially<br />

fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on<br />

the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte, although if you<br />

haven’t had a chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need<br />

one of the attentive waiters to translate. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW<br />

Polna Skleda G-2, Pot Za Brdom, tel. (+386) 1470 27<br />

00, www.hotel.mons.si. The Polna Skleda restaurant at the<br />

Mons hotel and congress centre is a buffet-style place (unique,<br />

we think, in Ljubljana) whereby you can take your pick from a<br />

vast variety of goodies displayed on an impresive counter in the<br />

centre of the dining room. The various offerings and dishes of<br />

the day change regularly and give you the opportunity to try out<br />

differnet cuisines. For something a bit different or for a casual<br />

lunch or dinner it can’t be too highly recommended. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 22:00. €4,5 - €18. PTHAUGBK<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

41


42 restAurAnts<br />

Pri Vitezu B-3/4, Breg 20, tel. (+386) 1426 60 58,<br />

www.privitezu.si. Exquisite restaurant, widely recognized as<br />

one of the city’s best. Though expensive (and we mean expensive,<br />

you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value<br />

for money to people for whom high class food is paramount.<br />

We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily<br />

lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you. We especially<br />

like the Caesar Salad: slightly different to what you might be<br />

used to and all the better for it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed<br />

Sun. (€8-50). TJA6UGBXS<br />

Rožna Hiša H-2, Rožna Dolina II/3, tel. (+386) 12 56 47<br />

95, gostilna.roznahisa@gmail.com. We’ve always had the<br />

impression that this is one of the places Slovene university<br />

professors like to take visiting academics for a relaxed meal<br />

their first day in town. The menu has a bit of everything, the<br />

prices are reasonable and whole place has a warm congenial<br />

atmosphere that’s conducive to lingering over a post-meal<br />

espresso or bottle of wine - especially when sitting outside on a<br />

warm night. Of course, the fact that it’s located in Rožna Dolina,<br />

a quiet university neighbourhood, might have something to do<br />

with it as well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00,<br />

Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€5-22). PALBS<br />

Separé Café Koprska 92, tel. (+386) 12 44 16 <strong>34</strong>,<br />

www.separe.si. Conveniently located near the motorway in<br />

Mestni Log - one of Ljubljana’s quickly expanding commercial<br />

districts - Separé is a great place for a quick business lunch<br />

or leisurely post-meeting dinner. Its Mediterranean-inspired<br />

menu is served by attentive professional waiters, who will<br />

gladly rattle off the day’s specials in English or recommend<br />

something from the overwhelming wine list. The stylish<br />

modern interior is divided into several separate spaces for<br />

a more intimate dining experience, and there’s also a large<br />

covered terrace out front. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00<br />

- 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-19). PALBW<br />

Skriti Kot B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1430 22 06,<br />

www.skritikot.com. The name translates to “Hidden Corner”,<br />

and this restaurant, which is hidden deep under the SKB building,<br />

certainly is. Serving pasta and Slovenian standards to a<br />

regular flow of local workers and students, this windowless<br />

nook is just the right place for tucking in to a reasonably-priced<br />

meal while hiding from your tour group. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. (€7-32). TA6UGBXS<br />

Slon B-2, Slovenska <strong>34</strong>, tel. (+386) 1470 11 00, fax<br />

(+386) 1251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, www.<br />

hotelslon.com. Officially one of the best restaurants in the<br />

city (they have an award to prove it), the eatery at the Best<br />

Western Slon is well worth your time. The central location,<br />

the delightfully simple - mainly Mediterranean - menu and the<br />

outstanding service all help to make it special. Try and bag<br />

one of the tables overlooking the lounge: among the most<br />

sought-after in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30<br />

- 24:00. PTJHAULGKW<br />

Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. (+386) 1251 17 49,<br />

info@staramacka.si, www.staramacka.si. Like all the<br />

restaurants and cafes along the Ljubljanica the focus here is on<br />

the outside experience and this restaurant/bar aims to create a<br />

sort of Miami vibe in their area along the river; with Latin music<br />

blaring on the stereo, a drink list featuring tropical cocktails and<br />

cigars, and a staff of attractive waiters. The food here is pricey<br />

steakhouse. You can also enjoy light meals, like various salads<br />

or sea food and then top them with tasty desserts. They are<br />

the only restaurant where serve food till 01:00. From a crisp<br />

cocktail before dinner to a full course meal without ever having<br />

to leave the comfort of the house. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 23:00. (€5-20)TJA6UEGBXW<br />

Super attractive people eat waffles, and so should you!<br />

Wild West Saloon H-2, Tržaška 69, tel. (+386) 12<br />

56 72 79/(+386) 70 839 422, www.wild-west-saloon.<br />

com/. Before even glancing at the menu, you have to give<br />

them credit for the authentic-looking façade and an interior full<br />

of native American paraphernalia, toilets that read ‘hombres’<br />

and ‘conchitas’ and a (hopefully) fake buffalo head above the<br />

bar. The food is Slovene-style Tex-Mex along with steaks,<br />

burgers and rather surprisingly a whole page of salads.<br />

Sticking with the wild west theme, all the dishes are served<br />

in gut-busting American sized portions that, if you manage to<br />

finish, will leave you in a need of a siesta. The lunch specials<br />

are a great deal at less than €6. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30, Sat<br />

10:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€5-21). A6LBS<br />

Italian<br />

Allegria B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1426 74 02, www.<br />

allegria.si. A veritable corner of Tuscany in Slovenia, Allegria<br />

promises to bring the scent of the Tuscan hills and the atmosphere<br />

of the stark landscapes across the Alps - and admirably<br />

succeeds. With a menu longer than Alitalia’s creditor list, there’s<br />

plenty to choose from, be it delicate ravioli and lasagne dishes, or<br />

fragrantly grilled meat or fish. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00<br />

- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€2.30-20.20). PAGB<br />

Azur H-2, Cesta Na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1423 24 23, www.<br />

pizzeria-azur.si. A bright orange beacon in the middle of nondescript<br />

suburbs, walk right in and past the freaky statue (which<br />

appears to be a homeless person begging for change) and into<br />

this wide open and friendly pizza and risotteria. The menu is full of<br />

various types of pizza and while they give their risottos top billling,<br />

they actually have more pasta offerings. It is clear from the familiar<br />

air that this place is full of regular repeat customers and it is certainly<br />

family friendly and even tourist-friendly despite its distance<br />

from the center. If you’re headed back from the zoo, this could be<br />

a good lunch or dinner stop for you. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />

Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€4.90-12.90). PTAUGB<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Kavalino C-3, Trubarjeva 52, tel. (+386) 1232 09 90,<br />

www.kavalino.si. Hidden in a sloping cobblestone alleyway<br />

between Trubarjeva and the river, this quaint Italian restaurant<br />

specializes in Tuscan food. The first thing you see upon entering<br />

is a tasteful dining area with an indoor tree in the corner<br />

that rises up to a skylight. Further back there’s a smaller<br />

dining area under a vaulted brick ceiling, and upstairs is a<br />

café. The service might not be the friendliest, but at least<br />

it’s efficient, and the varied and tasty lunch specials are<br />

downright cheap. Definitely worth finding. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18). PT<br />

JA6GBXSW<br />

La Storia C-1, Linhartova 3, tel. (+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 45<br />

92, info@lastoria.si, www.lastoria.si. This large and<br />

lovely trattoria sits inside a bustling but decaying old<br />

shopping center not far from the center, and caters to<br />

a daily horde of office workers and students with its<br />

authentic pizza and pasta offerings. While other restaurants<br />

serve pasta and Italian dishes as an afterthought,<br />

true Italian food is the focus here, and the ample staff<br />

will make sure you get yours fast and hot. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10).<br />

PTJA6GB<br />

Pasta Nona B-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1438<br />

24 24. Scrubbed pine tables and an air of casual sophistication<br />

await those looking for one of the finest lunch<br />

spots in town. Drop by this magnificent little eatery for<br />

big plates of steaming pasta, wonderful sauces, some<br />

great salads and, best of all, a dustbin-sized help-yourself<br />

barrel of couscous. Tucked up away from the action in the<br />

heart of the city-centre business district, this place fills<br />

up fast. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€5-10).<br />

PTJAGSW<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

Mexican<br />

Cantina Mexicana B-3, Wolfova 4, Knafljev prehod,<br />

tel. (+386) 1426 93 25, www.cantina-mexicana-restaurantes.si.<br />

Fun on two floors in one of the city’s most popular<br />

courtyards, Cantina Mexicana is positively aglow with bright<br />

colours, strange sculptures, grass growing on the ceiling and<br />

some nice lighting tricks behind the long ground-floor bar. The<br />

food is classic Tex-Mex as you’d expect, and appears to be fairly<br />

popular. If nothing else, this is one of the quirkiest and silliest<br />

places in the city centre and even if you’re not hungry is well<br />

worth a visit for a drink or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />

09:00 - 03:00. (€4,90-16,90). PTJA6GBSW<br />

Imperio Mexicano J-2, Šmartinska 152/G, tel. (+386)<br />

1523 31 65, fax (+386) 1523 31 66, www.imperio.si. Decent<br />

and good value if not award winning Tex-Mex food, where<br />

our only gripe would be that the cheddar used on the nachos<br />

was not the best. Great cocktails, an outsdnaing house white,<br />

and great big portions of all your Tex-Mex favourites: the chicken<br />

tortillas were particularly good. For big groups shopping in City<br />

Park, you can’t do much better. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat<br />

08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PTAULGSW<br />

Joe Peña’s B-2, Cankarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 1421 58 00,<br />

www.joepenas.si. A combined cantina and cocktail bar with a<br />

fine garden to boot, they’ve got it just right, from the general scruffiness<br />

of the place through to the smell of limes and cumin that hits<br />

you as you open the door. The food’s pretty good, being the standard<br />

Mexican dishes as found throughout the world including fajitas,<br />

enchiladas et al, plus there’s a decent menu of vegetarian options<br />

to keep everyone happy. One of the best atmospheres in the city<br />

that’s guaranteed to please all but the fussiest of patrons. Highly<br />

recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />

12:00 - 24:00. (€3-14).PTJA6GBSW<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

43


44 restAurAnts<br />

Pizza<br />

Foculus B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1421 92 95,<br />

foculus@siol.net, www.foculus.com. Magnificently decorated<br />

once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic<br />

doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and<br />

red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large<br />

wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises<br />

in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight<br />

with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The<br />

service can be a little slow at times, but the wait is generally<br />

more than worth it. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />

(€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS<br />

Parma B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82 22,<br />

www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one, this. As<br />

well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done<br />

Burek<br />

Bu rek i s t h e<br />

uni versal and<br />

ubiquitous Balkan<br />

snack that<br />

simply has to<br />

be tried when<br />

you’re in the region.<br />

From the<br />

Turkish word bur,<br />

meaning to twist,<br />

burek comes in<br />

all manner o f<br />

shapes and sizes but are essentially a baked filo pastry<br />

snack with a savoury filling, usually flavoured minced<br />

beef, cheese and/or spinach, best enjoyed with the addition<br />

of lashings of plain yoghurt. Burek can be found<br />

ready to eat, cheap and piping hot in bakeries and speciality<br />

places operating out of little more than an open<br />

window, especially around the bus station. Variations on<br />

the burek theme can be found as far and wide as Israel,<br />

where they have the burekas, and even in Lithuania<br />

where they eat something not unlike a burek that they<br />

call a čeburekai. Enjoy.<br />

Ajda C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 13, tel. (+386)<br />

143 91 440. Not the best burek (or pizza, burgers, etc) in<br />

town, but its location opposite the bus and train stations<br />

and non-stop hours means it’s a decent option if you<br />

fancy a cheap bite before leaving town and don’t feel like<br />

walking the extra 50m to Konkurenca. Also has a smaller<br />

second location at Ajdovščina that does kebaps as well.<br />

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (€1.50-4.90). PJGS<br />

Nobel Burek C-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386)<br />

1232 33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus<br />

stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as<br />

pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the<br />

street. Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs.<br />

(€1-2). J6UXS<br />

Olimpija B-2, Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal<br />

favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about outside<br />

around the clock we’re in the minority. The servings<br />

are huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to<br />

choose from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter<br />

being the overwhelming favourite among customers. Just<br />

around the corner from Bavarski Dvor. QOpen 00:00<br />

- 24:00. €2. JNXS<br />

at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served.<br />

Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go.<br />

And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look<br />

at the large photographs on the wall of the construction<br />

of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the<br />

stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€4-6).<br />

TJA6ULGBXSW<br />

Pizzeria Osmica B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1426<br />

58 72. Located on the narrow pedestrian street that runs<br />

parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza and<br />

salad annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard<br />

around the corner. An impressive-looking menu of twenty<br />

salads and perhaps twice as many pizzas are on offer in<br />

a comfortable faux-rustic setting - think lots of wood and<br />

stone with an open kitchen. Every time we’re here the service<br />

seems to range between leisurely paced to infuriatingly<br />

slow, but as far as the food is concerned we’ve yet to be<br />

disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,<br />

Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€4.70-7.80). JABS<br />

Quick Eats<br />

Delikatesa Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Kongresni Trg 11, tel.<br />

(+386) 1426 93 27. The acclaimed Ljubljana restaurant’s<br />

fast food outlet offers such tantalising takeaway options as<br />

good value slices of hot gooey pizza, meat, salad, lasagne<br />

and cold drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€2-25).<br />

PTJAGBS<br />

Falafel C-2, Trubarjeva 40/(+386) 041 64 01 66, www.<br />

alja-shaar.com/falafel.htm. A tiny little place churning<br />

out delicious falafel-based delicacies plus the usual array<br />

of pizzas and burgers. An excellent choice for vegetarians<br />

on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime<br />

period. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1-7).<br />

JA6UGS<br />

Hot Horse A-1, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. (+386) 1521 14<br />

27, www.hot-horse.si. Eating horses may horrify most British<br />

visitors, but that’s only because they’ve watched too much<br />

Mr Ed and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins and<br />

easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and get grilling.<br />

Hot Horse serves healthy horseburgers from a small kiosk in<br />

Tivoli Park and just outside BTC. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon<br />

10:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS<br />

Konkurenca C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel.<br />

(+386) 1430 52 26. Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in<br />

or take away around the clock just southwest of the train and<br />

bus stations. Look for the blinding yellow and green façade for<br />

some of the cheapest eats in town. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />

Open 24hrs. (€1-5). J<br />

McDonald’s B-2/3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1426 32<br />

26, Info@si.mcd.com, www.mcdonalds.si. It’s McHere<br />

if you McNeed it. Also inside the train station (open 07:00-<br />

23:00), in BTC (open 08:00 - 24:00, Sunday 09:00 - 24:00)<br />

with a drive-thru nearby open 24 hours and in several other<br />

locations in Ljubljana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00<br />

- 24:00. (€1-5). PTJNGBSW<br />

Paninoteka B-3, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1425 00 55,<br />

www.paninoteka.si. The first sandwich bar in Ljubljana and<br />

by everyone’s account still the best. Using the best ingredients<br />

stuffed inside large, delicious pieces of Italian bread, eat in or<br />

take out, hot or cold. One of the city’s latest institutions and a<br />

highly recommended one it is too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 23:00. (€1-7).J6UEGBXSW<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Žak Dalmatinova 2. Located under the hulking Ajdovščina<br />

building just off a busy crossroads, this French style bakery<br />

whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines,<br />

tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices<br />

to extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared<br />

sandwiches cost a little more than the pre-packaged brands<br />

found in all the supermarkets but are well worth the premium.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. (€1-<br />

3.50). JS<br />

Slovenian<br />

In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian - with sheep<br />

and cows on it’s mountain pastures giving meat and milk<br />

products, the Mediterranean fresh providing seafood,<br />

and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy,<br />

you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is<br />

unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned<br />

Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade<br />

food that would make your granny grin.<br />

Figovec B-2, Gosposvetska 1, tel. (+386) 1426 44<br />

10, gostilna.figovec@siol.net, www.figovec.si. White<br />

tablecloths, heaps of quality Slovenian wine and a pleasing<br />

mix of bits and bobs on the walls including old farming implements,<br />

joints of meat and a television blaring out MTV cut<br />

this one out from the humdrum mainstream gostilna scene.<br />

Popular with both locals and foreigners alike, this really<br />

rather pleasing place dishes up above-par nosh such as<br />

the ghoulish-sounding horseflesh prosciutto and horseflesh<br />

beefsteak, alongside such amusing concoctions as ‘yang<br />

pig baked in oven’ and mushroom turkey. Joking aside, what<br />

this place loses in translation it more than makes up for in<br />

the kitchen. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.<br />

(€7-28). PTJA6UGBXSW<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

restAurAnts<br />

Gostilna Kovač J-1, Pot k Savi 9, tel. (+386) 1537 12<br />

44, info@kovac-co.si, www.kovac-co.si. Well out of town<br />

near the Tomačevo roundabout, Gostilna Kovač has been serving<br />

up Slovenian cuisine with traditional kindness since 1840.<br />

There’s plenty of emphasis on meat and fish. Inside, antiques<br />

and wooden beams create a rustic atmosphere, while there’s<br />

a lovely porch and terrace for al fresco dining. Very popular with<br />

wheeling and dealing business types. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. (€10-100). PAUBW<br />

Gostilna Lovec A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad<br />

1, tel. (+386) 1426 91 36. One of the more interesting<br />

and individual gostilnas in town, Lovec provides a labyrinth<br />

of rooms with plenty of brick archways, some really fine old<br />

green ceramic stoves, a broken piano on the wall, scores of<br />

students of course, and something you don’t see in a gostilna<br />

every day - a salad bar. The food’s as good as you’ll get<br />

anywhere like this, there are a few vegetarian options, and,<br />

for that ultimate gostilna experience with an interesting twist,<br />

this one wins hands down. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00<br />

- 17:00. Closed Sun. (€3-13). JAGBS<br />

Mencigar Nobile D-3, Zarnikova 3, tel. (+386) 1439<br />

70 40, www.mencigar-nobile.com. Across the road from<br />

St Joseph’s Church, Mencigor Nobile is a wonderfully unpretentious<br />

restaurant specialising in traditional food from the<br />

Prekmurje region of northeast Slovenia. The three dining areas,<br />

known as the Glažar, Janc and Goričko rooms are decorated<br />

with classic folk motifs and cooking utensils and are, as are the<br />

clientele that frequent them, as a diverse as it gets. A popular<br />

place for coffee and a break with teenagers and workers during<br />

the day, the evenings see a slightly classier crowd descending<br />

for the excellent, good value food and occasional folk-related<br />

nights of entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00<br />

- 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-21). PTAGB<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

4


4 restAurAnts<br />

Pizzicato C-4, Gornji Trg 33, tel. (+386) 1251 11 18,<br />

marko.rucman@amis.net, www.pizzicato.si. A house of<br />

traditional Slovenian cuisine in the old town with beautiful and<br />

well-restore interior, Pizzicato serves traditional Slovenian<br />

standards, pasta made fresh and with care. The staff is exceedingly<br />

helpful and tourist-friendly, and devoted to making<br />

sure to they have happy guests and repeat visitors. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€5-9). PTJAGBX<br />

Pri Vodniku H-2, Vodnikova 65a, tel. (+386) 1505 59 07,<br />

info@privodniku.si, www.privodniku.si. Set in the building<br />

where the poet Vodnik was born in 1758, now this pleasant<br />

Slovenian restaurant serves a la carte meals as well as several<br />

set menus. Each of the menus offers a different overview of<br />

local specialities. For something special, take the time to try<br />

the 8-course slow food menu accompanied by good wine. For<br />

a really relaxed visit, you can stay on after dessert and sleep<br />

in one of the guestrooms. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00<br />

- 21:00. (€10-20). PTA6ULGBXSW<br />

Pr’ potic B-3, Stari Trg 21, tel. (+386) 1425 43 37,<br />

prpotic@siol.net. Looking for lunch in Ljubljana? Want to go<br />

somewhere specialising in local dishes? Then you could do<br />

much worse than taking advantage of Pr’ Potic’s set lunch menu<br />

where you can enjoy a choice of two soups, two mains, salad and<br />

desert, all eaten at either one of the outdoor tables or in the cosy<br />

red and white interior. The a la carte menu has a range of hot and<br />

cold starters, soups, sides such as dumplings and grilled vegetables.<br />

Factor in the wine list, friendly service and the good location<br />

on the square at the end of Stari trg and you have an eatery that<br />

offers a budget option with the frills still attached. QOpen 11:00<br />

- 24:00. (€11-17). PTJA6EGBXSW<br />

Sokol C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 18, tel. (+386) 1439 68<br />

55, gostilnasokol@siol.net, www.gostilna-sokol.com.<br />

Essential dining for almost everybody passing through as<br />

well as living in the city, Sokol is arguably the most famous of<br />

all the traditional Slovenian restaurants in Ljubljana, if not all<br />

Slovenia. Several different rooms, all decorated in a traditional,<br />

rustic manner provide the ultimate fatty meat blow-out such<br />

as venison plate, game goulash or veal stew as well as a few<br />

safer dishes including karst ham with olive, Ljubljana steak<br />

plus limited fish and vegetarian options. The desserts are<br />

equally punishing on the waistline, but well worth trying if you<br />

can still fit one in after your main course. Look for the cheeky<br />

red chef by the entrance or listen for the chain-smoking Americans<br />

swapping business stories on the front steps. QOpen<br />

06:00 - 23:00. (€7-21). PTJAUGBXS<br />

Špajza B-3, Gornji Trg 28, tel. (+386) 1425 30 94. An<br />

exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wooden floors,<br />

a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, an extensive<br />

menu of Slovenian and international dishes, an excellent salad<br />

bar and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Popular<br />

with many people including business professionals, tourists<br />

and romantic couples, prices are high but still relatively affordable<br />

if you don’t come here every day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,<br />

Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7.50-10). JAGBS<br />

Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430 33 70,<br />

info@stari-tisler.com, www.stari-tisler.com. Only a short walk<br />

from the main train station - in the direction of the moustachioed<br />

General Meister atop his trusty steed - Old Tišler’s has been<br />

serving up traditional Slovene cuisine for over a century. They<br />

specialise in hearty soups, stews and goulashes, which means it’s<br />

a good place to try bograč, a Slovene favourite that is essentially<br />

a bowl of meat masquerading as stew. Daily lunch specials are<br />

a good value starting at €5, and there are a half dozen rooms<br />

available upstairs. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.<br />

(€5-20). PTJA6UGBXS<br />

Valvasor B-3, Stari Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1425 04 55, info@<br />

valvasor.net, www.valvasor.net. If you are looking for fine<br />

dining in the heart of the city, Valvasor may be just the place<br />

for you. ‘Elegant’ and ‘tasteful’ are adjectives that could be<br />

used to describe both the décor and the menu. Seafood<br />

features heavily in both the appetizers and mains sections<br />

though for the completely carnivorous there is also a good<br />

range of mouth-watering red meat options. If you find yourself<br />

spoilt and confused by choice you could take advantage of<br />

the degustation menu and try a little of a lot. With an extensive<br />

wine list selected from all over Slovenia, Valvasor is<br />

open for lunch and dinner though it’s definitely best to book<br />

for the latter. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€16-24).<br />

PTJAGBXS<br />

Vodnikov Hram C-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12<strong>34</strong><br />

52 60, vodnikov.hram@gmail.com, www.vodnikov-hram.<br />

si. Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as<br />

one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends<br />

his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known<br />

places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana.<br />

Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended<br />

experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace<br />

while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to<br />

ferry you up to the castle. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00<br />

- 24:00. (€5-50). PTA6ULGSW<br />

Židana Marela H-1, Vodnikova 2, tel. (+386) 1515<br />

14 60, JazPaTi@zidanamarela.si, www.zidanamarela.<br />

si. A fantastic idea whose time (surprisingly) never came<br />

before now, Židana Marela organizes Slovenian Nights at<br />

Skriti Kot restaurant where they introduce attendees to<br />

a typical Slovene meal, drink,customs, folk music, and<br />

dances in a convenient 2.5 hour experience. At the end of<br />

the night the whole room should be up on their feet and joining<br />

in on the raucous fun. QOpen 19:30 - 24:00. (€5-15).<br />

PJA6UGB<br />

Vegetarian<br />

Ajdovo Zrno B-2, Trubarjeva 7, ajdovo.zrno@gmail.com,<br />

www.satwa.si/. This popular vegetarian café is tucked away<br />

in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva, a busy pedestrian<br />

street. Colourful is the first word that springs to mind when<br />

you enter, with bright walls and table cloths decorating the<br />

dining room and outdoor terrace. Food-wise there are loads<br />

of choices: everything from soups, sandwiches, tortillas and<br />

even lasagne to fresh fruits and juices, cakes, milkshakes and<br />

smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick and mix’ style from a canteen<br />

with every kind of vegetable you can imagine - and probably<br />

even some you can’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

(€2-6). PJABS<br />

Vegedrom H-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. (+386) 1513 26 42,<br />

info@vegedrom.com, www.vegedrom.com. A vegetarian<br />

can certainly stuff themselves on vegetable pizzas and side<br />

salads in the center of town, but if it is real healthy vegetarian<br />

meals you are after then head to the outskirts and try<br />

Vegedrom. The restaurant creates vegetarian, organic and<br />

vegan meals inspired by Slovenian and Indian cuisine, with<br />

daily specials and special lunch sets that include soup, salad,<br />

and a sweet. A worthwhile trek for something healthy and<br />

delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed<br />

Sun. (€4-10). TA6ULGBXS<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite<br />

things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire<br />

old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés<br />

that line nearly every street. During the colder months<br />

things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking<br />

ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside<br />

huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on<br />

coffee’s significant other. The most popular places can be<br />

found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and<br />

Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so<br />

many options to choose from just wandering around until<br />

you find a place you fancy is never a bad option.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

E Live music S Take away<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

R Internet L Guarded parking<br />

O Casino J Old Town location<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

B Outside seating V Home delivery<br />

Bachus Lounge B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386)<br />

1241 82 42, info@bachus-center.com, www.bachuscenter.com.<br />

Buzzing pretty much any time of the day,<br />

Bachus’ ground-floor lounge area features good-looking<br />

clients, good-tasting coffee, a year-round garden for sipping<br />

cocktails under the stars, and a whole host of other fancy<br />

attractions. A popular Ljubljana A-list classic, handy for both<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

CAFÉs<br />

the attached international restaurant or as a pre-club venue<br />

for its hugely popular nightlife venue. Q Mon 08:00-23:00,<br />

Tue-Sat 08:00-06:00, Holidays 18:00-06:00, Sun Closed<br />

(€3.30-42). PAEG<br />

Bazilika Shop & Cafe C-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. (+386)<br />

41 530 539, darja@bazilika.si. Right next to the courthouse<br />

and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is<br />

the closest thing you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon<br />

as you enter, you’ll feel how you leave the bustle, noise, and<br />

gray of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing<br />

oriental music and décor. A great place to come and study,<br />

use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee<br />

and sandwiches. Great service too. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Café Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80,<br />

plato@siol.net, www.plato.si. A stylish and still relatively<br />

new café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes<br />

and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the<br />

centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for<br />

some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also<br />

a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more<br />

than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer<br />

that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3).<br />

PTJA6GBXSW<br />

Čez Cesto C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 12, tel. (+386) 1470<br />

47 07. Smack bang next to the cathedral, this unpretentious<br />

spot, clearly pandering to the trade from the local<br />

market, rarely hears an English voice, making it well worth<br />

more investigation. Find a small selection of beers, wine<br />

and spirits and the most extraordinary white chandelier.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />

TJAUGS<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

4


4 CAFÉs<br />

Cha (Čajna Hiša) B-3, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1252 70<br />

10, cha@siol.net, www.cha.si. When it’s all just to much, it’s<br />

tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s exactly<br />

what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the world hurry<br />

by, while you much around with teabags. There’s a choice of black,<br />

green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic tastes well catered<br />

to. The classy porcelain crockery adds to the special feel of the<br />

place. An on-site shop sells the dry version too. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. TJAGBS<br />

Čolnarna A-2, Tivoli Park (near the Ribnik, lake), tel.<br />

(+386) 1251 11 60, www.colnarna.com. Once upon a time<br />

this old café sold the best homemade cakes and sweets in town<br />

in the most beautiful setting around, but it is now 120 years in,<br />

and we all know age can make it hard to keep up. These days<br />

while the surroundings are still quite lovely, the cakes are not bad<br />

and ice creams are delivered in a truck. Nonetheless, it merits<br />

a stop for a cake, a coffee, and a peaceful moment in the park.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TJ6UGBXS<br />

Grajska Kavarna C-3, Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Castle),<br />

tel. (+386) 1439 41 40, www.grajska-kavarna.si.<br />

Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures, Ljubljana Castle’s<br />

very own café is housed inside a dismal-looking 1980s concrete<br />

monstrosity well overdue for a facelift. Retaining much<br />

of its original communist-era look, the interior is fun if you’re<br />

in the area, and is a good place to stock up on fruit juice,<br />

wine, coffee, beer, sandwiches and a Harry Potter ice cream.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PTJA6GBSW<br />

Kavarna Tromostovje B-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. (+386)<br />

1430 12 18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.si. Here near<br />

Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside the river,<br />

you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This open-air<br />

café is blessed with perhaps the best location in the city and<br />

as such it seems to always be full with locals and tourists sitting<br />

with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream, soaking up local color,<br />

and sometimes even watching a daytime concert on the square.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. TJ6UENBXSW<br />

Lan B-3, Gallusovo Nabrežje 27, tel. (+386) 1425 31 15.<br />

A basic student café with a few interesting design features that<br />

unfortunately the waitress on duty at the time couldn’t tell us<br />

anything about. There’s the most extraordinary moulded green<br />

shelves you need to walk through to get in, and some truly<br />

inspiring lighting on the ceiling concealed inside large wooden<br />

boxes. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00<br />

- 00:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJA6GBXSW<br />

Le Petit Café B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. (+386)<br />

1251 25 75. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals<br />

and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without<br />

even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this place,<br />

and it is easy to see why. What’s more, it is not even expensive:<br />

big omelets and tasty toasted sandwiches all come in at around<br />

€3.50. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PTJA6UGBS<br />

Maček B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 1425 37 91, www.<br />

macek-lj.si. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking<br />

places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something<br />

a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls<br />

decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits<br />

of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular<br />

with families toting young children during the weekends.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. TJA6GBSW<br />

Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek C-3, Petkovškovo<br />

Nabrežje 15, tel. (+386) 41 620 935. A really pleasant,<br />

quiet café by the water, this could be what the person who<br />

needs a little time with a book and a decent cup of coffee<br />

was looking for. Populated by a group of people united by<br />

their love of interesting hats if not age, the roll-off-the-tongue<br />

Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek is for sure one of the city’s top arty,<br />

bookish places to meet other like-minded souls. QOpen<br />

07:30 - 01:00. (€4-9). TJA6UGBS<br />

Pri Semaforju B-3, Slovenska 5, tel. (+386) 40 893 664.<br />

Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in several<br />

different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to sit<br />

either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your<br />

fancy. Lively, upbeat music provides a soundtrack for all manner<br />

of pierced teenagers to sit around and plan revolutions over<br />

a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice,<br />

spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. Don’t forget to leave<br />

your granny in the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat,<br />

Sun. TJ6UGBXSW<br />

SEM Kavarna D-2, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic Museum),<br />

tel. (+386) 1300 87 00. A trendy, industrial-look café attached<br />

to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a glass floor,<br />

lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too pretentious for<br />

some perhaps, but a charming place all the same and certainly<br />

a place to meet some of the city’s more interesting characters.<br />

QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PTJA6UGBXSW<br />

Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku B-3, Stari Trg 30, tel. (+386)<br />

1425 07 12. Teddy bears, Cuban flags, accordions, cakes, icecream<br />

and lots of friendly people of all ages, some of them wearing<br />

funny hats. One long thin room and a larger space out the back<br />

for coffee and sweet treats hold a fascinating array of colourful<br />

characters. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€1-5)TJ6GBXS<br />

STA Travel Cafe B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439<br />

16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.com.<br />

There are a lot of pluses to this place despite the clinical<br />

sounding name. Set on a big terrace with a good view and<br />

lots of tables it offers free Internet for patrons. When all that<br />

virtual surfing results in hunger pangs you can sate them<br />

with your choice from a wide range of sandwiches. The TV<br />

is set to the travel channel so you can look at where you’ve<br />

been, where you’re going or where you want to head off to<br />

next, and every second Wednesday you can attend the travel<br />

presentations and wash all the free information down with<br />

beer, wine, coffee, tea or a soft drink. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />

Closed Sun. PJ6UGBXW<br />

Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 177<br />

775, info@klubtop.si, www.klubtop.si. While this aptly<br />

named establishment makes no attempt to belie the fact that<br />

it’s a club first and foremost, don’t let that dissuade you from<br />

taking the glass elevator up to the roof during daylight hours.<br />

Even as an afterthought the café still has the best views in<br />

the city. Ljubljana’s almost too picturesque castle is perched<br />

on the leafy hilltop only a few hundred metres away, and more<br />

steeples than you can (or at least would want to) count dot the<br />

sky above the old town. A perfect place to linger on a sunny<br />

afternoon. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:30<br />

- 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAEGBKW<br />

Zvezda B-2, Wolfova 14 & Slovenska <strong>34</strong>, tel. (+386)<br />

1421 90 90, kavarna.zvezda@siol.net. A bustling café<br />

frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearlladen<br />

old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your<br />

classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues<br />

and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest<br />

café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is<br />

strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of<br />

the best and stickiest in town. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />

10:00 - 20:00. Slovenska <strong>34</strong> open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-<br />

20:00. (€2,80-3). PTJAUGBSW<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place<br />

goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with<br />

cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the<br />

early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go<br />

home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours<br />

too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still<br />

packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is<br />

something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most<br />

of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby. Also note<br />

that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no<br />

such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking<br />

home on your own late at night.<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

E Live music S Take away<br />

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />

R Internet L Guarded parking<br />

O Casino J Old Town location<br />

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />

B Outside seating V Home delivery<br />

Bars<br />

Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700,<br />

fax (+386) 147 02 708, info@hotel.mons.si, www.mons.<br />

si. The elegant bar at the Mons hotel is a cocktail lovers<br />

delight. There’s bar food too, as well as a cracking selection<br />

of desserts. For an after-conference quick one it’s a must.<br />

The difficult bit is not ending up staying the whole evening.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PHLGKW<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

nightLiFe<br />

Bi-Ko-Fe B-3, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25 93 93.<br />

Situated on a sloping cobbled lane opposite the central univeristy<br />

building, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters<br />

(or at least the European equivalent), students, artists and<br />

the like. The outside terrace is crowded from open till close<br />

- thanks at least in part to the ban on smoking indoors - and<br />

the entire place gets packed most nights, with an atmosphere<br />

more akin to a house party than a bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6UBXSW<br />

Café Galerija B-3, Mestni Trg 5, tel. (+386) 40 245 780,<br />

www.cafe-galerija.com. Right next door to Cupiterija you’ll<br />

find Café Galerija. As the name suggests, this café doubles as<br />

a gallery space. Along with the artworks and outdoor seating,<br />

the café boasts a cool blue interior bar at the back, where<br />

patrons can sit back and enjoy teas and coffees, snacks<br />

and a range of alcoholic drinks - pretty much something for<br />

everyone of a legal drinking age. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 22:00. PJA6EGBXW<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

4


0 nightLiFe<br />

Conestoga C-2, Trubarjeva 43, conestoga@email.it. Doesn’t<br />

look all that much from the outside: only a barrel or two gives away<br />

the fact that this a drinking den, and nothing that this is in fact a live<br />

music venue par excellence. The tiniest stage in Ljubljana (Europe<br />

even) hosts live acts most evenings playing blues, jazz and rock.<br />

Take home a souvenir t-shirt, a bargain €9. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />

JRUEGB<br />

Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 59 712 368,<br />

cupiterija@gmail.com. This place may be located on Mestni<br />

Trg in the heart of Old Ljubljana, but don’t let that fool you:<br />

it’s the epitome of funky - in a good a way. First of all it also<br />

goes by the name Hijo de Puta, a mildly vulgar Spanish phrase<br />

(if you’re not sure what it means we don’t want to ruin the<br />

surprise). Then there’s the interior, a dizzying hodge podge of<br />

Gaudi-inspired colours and textures spreading through several<br />

rooms and multiple levels. It’s also one of the only places in<br />

town where we feel obligated to forego our usual beer and<br />

whiskey and order cocktails to go along with the free nightly<br />

tapas. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBS<br />

Lar’s Bar C-3, Gornji Trg 23. Sleek lines and more than a<br />

mod towards Scandinavian design at this sublime little bar on<br />

a quiet central side street. Owned and run by the eponymous<br />

Lars, expect a wide range of Scandinavian cocktails, many of<br />

which are mixed to perfection on the biggest vodka cocktail<br />

list we’ve seen this side of Oslo. Offbeat nights in Ljubljana<br />

should both begin and end here. QOpen 15:00. - 01:00, Sat<br />

11:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJGB<br />

NEW<br />

Makalonca B-3, Hribarjevo Nabrežje 19, tel. (+386) 40<br />

42 71 67, makalonca@makalonca.si, www.makalonca.<br />

si. After several years hiatus, and several months of renovations,<br />

Makalonca reopened this autumn with much fanfare<br />

- and deservedly so, as it occupies one of the coolest locations<br />

in the Ljubljana. Located below street level along the<br />

Hribar Quay, it offers a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere than<br />

can be found at the strip of bars and cafés on the Ljubljanica’s<br />

opposite bank (or at least on nights when they forego the<br />

techno). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

Opera Bar B-2, Cankarjeva 12, tel. (+386) 1421 03<br />

90, www.opera-bar.com. A bright, large, colourful space<br />

popular with many of the city’s more well-heeled residents,<br />

including those who like to attend the opera house across the<br />

street, Opera Bar is your classic café-bar. It brims with goodlooking<br />

types drinking coffee during the day and something a<br />

little stronger later on. The Australian-Slovenian ownwership<br />

explains the huge Aborigine-style painted ceiling and walls.<br />

QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00<br />

- 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PJHAEGBXS<br />

Rollbar J-2, Hala 18 (BTC City), tel. (+386) 1585 25 70,<br />

www.indoor-karting.com. Another reason to visit the huge<br />

BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of<br />

the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this<br />

subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough<br />

racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s<br />

actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving<br />

laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size<br />

space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds,<br />

these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of<br />

120kph, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible<br />

albeit still stupidly fast 65kph. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />

08:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. AUEGBXW<br />

Roxly C-2, Mala 5, tel. (+386) 41 399 599, info@roxly.<br />

si, www.roxly.si. It’s all in the timing so they say. Spread<br />

over two floors, the Roxly provides a dual function by offering<br />

meals by day and music by night. The coffee bar and<br />

restaurant is popular during the daylight hours, with a good<br />

wine and cocktail list, a menu made up of local and international<br />

dishes and a view of the castle from the outdoor dining<br />

area. By night, DJs and live music, mainly of the blues and<br />

rock varieties, keep this place rolling along until three in the<br />

morning, providing a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous<br />

dance music found in most late-night venues. QOpen 07:00<br />

- 02:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Closed<br />

Sun. (€6-18). PJAEGBXS<br />

Slon Lounge B-2, Slovenska <strong>34</strong> (Best Western Slon), tel.<br />

(+386) 1470 11 55, www.hotelslon.com. If Ljubljana were<br />

a village, this would be the village pub. This legendary bar in the<br />

legendary hotel of the same name is the kind of place where<br />

people arrange to meet, and where they can sink back in comfortable<br />

armchairs, chatting while they knock back a devilishly good<br />

coffee or cocktail in an atmosphere that’s at once business-like<br />

and relaxed. An almost circular affair with huge windows overlooking<br />

the busy street outside, this is most people’s first choice<br />

for informal get togethers. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30<br />

- 24:00. (€7-15). PJAUGBKXSW<br />

Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. (+386) 1251 17<br />

49, www.staramacka.si. The ground floor space of this<br />

combined cocktail bar and steak house restaurant has opted<br />

for something along the lines of a Cuban vibe, with plenty of<br />

Cuban cocktails on the menu to accompany the Cuban music<br />

and cigars also on offer. Upstairs find a small restaurant with lots<br />

of classic 60s-style red lampshades turning out a reasonable<br />

menu of appetizers, steaks, fresh salads and seafood dishes.<br />

For those who can’t be bothered to move too far from where<br />

they eat to where they end up drinking, Stara Mačka may well<br />

prove too tempting to resist. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00<br />

- 23:00. (€4-15).PJA6UGBKXSW<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

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Tombstone Saloon B-4, Eipprova 19, tel. (+386)<br />

1283 14 13. Complete with authentic cowboy saloon-type<br />

swinging doors to get unceremoniously thrown through<br />

after you’ve drunk the bar dry and insulted the sheriff, this<br />

ridiculously silly, wooden-clad, cowboy-theme bar comes<br />

with the usual prerequisite wagon wheels on the ceiling<br />

and cowboy hats on the walls, plus classic rock howling<br />

out of the CD player and sport on the television vying<br />

for attention at the same time. Definitely one to put on<br />

your pub-crawl list if that’s what you’ve come here to do.<br />

TJA6ULEGBXSW<br />

Zlata Ladjica B-3, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386) 12 41 06<br />

96, info@zltim.si, www.zlataladjica.si. The ‘Golden Ship’<br />

has lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging,<br />

sails and a DJ booth inside a wooden barrel, the rum selection<br />

is surprisingly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor<br />

in sight, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs<br />

any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are<br />

also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments,<br />

and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. There’s often<br />

€3 drink specials at the weekend - check the signs outside<br />

for what’s on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

PTJA6UEGBKXSW<br />

Žmauc A-3, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1251 03 24. Ask<br />

any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and<br />

they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered<br />

in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of<br />

interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large<br />

cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude<br />

to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and<br />

night with more strange characters amidst an interior design<br />

scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent<br />

for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended.<br />

QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.<br />

PJA6GB<br />

Billiards<br />

7edma Lukna J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala A), tel.<br />

(+386) 1585 14 89. On the basement level in BTC’s Hala<br />

A shopping centre, this place does a commendable job of<br />

hiding its existence from the general public - not a difficult<br />

feat when your main entrance is at the bottom of a loading<br />

ramp. Despite their modern location they have the good<br />

sense to turn the lights down low enough to maintain a<br />

certain level of seediness that should be obligatory for any<br />

self-respecting pool hall. Perhaps most importantly the<br />

tables are nice and prices low: €5-7 per hour for groups and<br />

only €2 for loners who prefer to play by themselves. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

6XW<br />

Biljardna Hiša Parmova 25, tel. (+386) 1236 20 12,<br />

www.biljardna-hisa.com. Ljubljana’s most popular billiards<br />

place is a few minutes walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad.<br />

Consisting of one large open space underneath exposed wood<br />

rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much<br />

exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a large glassenclosed<br />

self-service smoking area - although unfortunately they<br />

have yet to cram any pool tables in there. You can expect at least<br />

a short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget to get<br />

your name on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ALX<br />

Casinos<br />

The automated casino, or gaming saloon, has arrived in a big<br />

way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but no more<br />

strict dress code either, though you still won’t get in wearing<br />

jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry ID to enter.<br />

Casino Kongo Ljubljanska 65, 1290 Grosuplje,<br />

tel. (+386) 1781 02 00, info@kongo-hc.com, www.<br />

kongo-hc.com. An African-themed gaming hall with<br />

electronic roulette and scores of slot machines. Once<br />

inside, soft drinks and food are on the house, though<br />

there are two African restaurants (plus the ‘Kanibal’ selfservice<br />

buffet) on site too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />

12:00 - 02:00. Admission €10 (includes gambling tickets).<br />

POAULEGBKXW<br />

Casino Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. (+386)<br />

1518 56 46, casino.lev@siol.net, www.casinolev.<br />

com. Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the bestlooking<br />

waitresses on the planet in the basement of the<br />

hotel of the same name. Q Open 24hrs. No admission.<br />

POJHAULEG<br />

Grand Casino Ljubljana H-1, Dunajska 154, tel.<br />

(+386) 1436 13 69, casino@casino-lj.si, www.casino-lj.si.<br />

Every temptation under the sun for those with<br />

money to burn, next door to the Austria Trend hotel. Slot<br />

machines and playing tables with live croupiers. QOpen<br />

15:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. Open 24hrs. Admission €5.<br />

POJAULEGW<br />

Clubs<br />

As Lounge B-3, Čopova 5, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386)<br />

1425 88 22, www.gostilnaas.si. This fabulous lounge is<br />

the third string to the three-string bow that is As. Featuring<br />

lots of laid-back browns and oranges with comfortable sofas<br />

and a mix of well-heeled clients, enjoy loads of cocktails and<br />

DJs in a chill-out environment that’s one in a million. Private<br />

parties also available. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon,<br />

Tue, Sun. PAG<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

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Bachus B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1241 82<br />

44, info@bachus-center.com, www.bachus-center.<br />

com. One of the longest running nightclubs in the centre<br />

of Ljubljana, this place accordingly bursts with people<br />

whenever there’s something good going on. Running<br />

the gamut of themed nights appealing to everyone from<br />

students to those looking for the best DJs in the city, this<br />

is currently the liveliest place in town for everyone to let<br />

their hair down and have some good old-fashioned fun.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Mon 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />

PJAEG<br />

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Wine Bars<br />

Viticulture in Slovenia has been refined over the<br />

centuries in the country’s three wine growing regions<br />

producing a vast selection of excellent quality wines,<br />

predicate wines and sparkling wines. You can encounter<br />

all pleasures at any of the traditional gostilnas or<br />

wine cellars found in almost every street in Ljubljana.<br />

To make your choice easier try wines such as Teran,<br />

Rumeni Muskat, Malvazija and Rebula from the coastal<br />

region. Cviček, a Slovene wine with a light taste and low<br />

alcohol is a specialty of the Posavje Region along with<br />

wines such as Renski Rizling, Traminec, Sauvignon,<br />

Chardonnay and Ranina.<br />

Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51 12<br />

57, guinnesspub@siol.net, www.dvornibar.net. This<br />

large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the<br />

day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s<br />

a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented<br />

patrons, while the other side is a little more geared<br />

towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100<br />

varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample<br />

local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of<br />

Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings<br />

are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15).<br />

PTJHA6UEGBKXSW<br />

Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 48,<br />

www.movia.si. The Slovenian Movia vineyards have<br />

been producing quality plonk for longer than anyone can<br />

remember, and this, their little showcase wine bar in the<br />

old town, is a fine place to come and try some of their<br />

excellent products. Found slightly hidden away inside<br />

a little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than<br />

a telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and<br />

even serves a selection of food especially prepared to<br />

compliment the wines on offer. Recommended. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PYJ6UGBX<br />

Wine Cellars of Slovenia (Vinske Kleti Slovenija)<br />

C-1, Dunajska 18, tel. (+386) 14 31 50<br />

15, vinskekletislovenije@siol.net, www.vks.si. The<br />

oldest and largest wine shop in the country naturally has<br />

a classy restaurant attached where discerning diners<br />

may sample some, or all, of the 80 wines on the menu.<br />

This is a place where the choice of good Slovenian<br />

dishes is based on the wine, rather than the other way<br />

round. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00<br />

- 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20). PALGBKX<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

InBox J-3, Jurčkova 224, tel. (+386) 1600 50<br />

86/(+386) 040 47 79 61, info@inbox-club.si, www.inbox-club.si.<br />

This massive warehouse-style venue on the<br />

southern outskirts of town has been packing in Slovene<br />

clubbers, under one guise or another, for the better part<br />

of a decade. It generally attracts a younger crowd that<br />

always comes to party, and is where you’re most likely to<br />

to find big-name international DJs in Slovenia. From time to<br />

time it also hosts pop or rock acts and has random theme<br />

nights, such as the reoccurring Hawaii Party, where tropical<br />

attire is not only encouraged but obligatory. QOpen ,<br />

Wed, Thu 21.00 - 4.00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission:<br />

Free to €26 depending on the event (check their website<br />

for details). PALEG<br />

Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 1438 02 61,<br />

mique@klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. If you’re staying<br />

in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing<br />

across the room in the middle of the night, the chances<br />

are the culprit can be found inside Club K4. A very studentoriented<br />

club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play<br />

some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant<br />

stuff. Sunday is the pink party night, the only party night in<br />

town for the gay community. Q Open Tue from 22:00, Wed-<br />

Sat from 23:00, Sun from 22:00. Mon closed. Admission €7.<br />

PJAG<br />

Klub SubSub A-1, Celovška 54a, klub@subsub.si,<br />

www.subsub.si. The oldest club in Ljubljana doesn’t really<br />

get going until about 1 am but when it does it doesn’t let<br />

up until 5 or 6 in the morning. Specialising in ‘good music’,<br />

with underground DJs and bands, SubSub attracts a mix<br />

of locals and tourists who want to hear the full gamut of<br />

alternative dance tracks from hip hop to funk to reggae.<br />

The cover charge depends on who is spinning or playing and<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

nightLiFe<br />

once through the doors you’ll be part of a hip crowd ranging<br />

in age from their teens to their late 30’s. Check out the<br />

website for a glimpse at what’s upcoming and a taste test<br />

of the sounds you’re likely to hear. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00,<br />

Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. (€3-16).<br />

PJALEGBXW<br />

KMŠ A-3, Tržaška 2, tel. (+386) 1425 74 80, info@<br />

klubkms.si, www.klubkms.si. If you’re young and a student<br />

(or at least look like one), here’s a great place to have some<br />

fun with the rest of Ljubljana’s dynamic youth. Numerous<br />

concerts and DJ nights are programmed for the weekends<br />

and the occasional weekday. Drink to your heart’s content<br />

as the booze is by far the cheapest in town. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 22:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Closed in August.<br />

Admission €0,5. PJA6EGW<br />

Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74,<br />

info@orto-bar.com, www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar<br />

and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly<br />

unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a wellbehaved<br />

crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away<br />

and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music<br />

venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long<br />

and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall,<br />

giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 05:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 21:00.<br />

PALEGBX<br />

Read more online<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


nightLiFe<br />

Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 17 77<br />

75, info@klubtop.si, www.klubtop.si. Located on the top<br />

floor of a commercial building in the heart of the city centre, this<br />

recently-opened venue is already the odds-on favourite to win<br />

the prestigious “Most Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award,<br />

and is looking to compete internationally later this summer.<br />

Local DJs spin a good variety of music Wednesday to Saturday,<br />

running the gamut from live jazz and bossa nova to the latest<br />

house cuts. If you’re not in the mood for going out, at least<br />

try to stop by during the day for a coffee on the terrace and<br />

some great views of the castle and old town. Q Open Sun-Tue<br />

08:30-22:00, Wed-Sat 08:30-05:00 Admission: Free before<br />

23:00 and €6 after. PJAEGBKW<br />

Ultra B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 31 56 07 13, info@<br />

ultra-club.si, www.ultra-club.si. If you find yourself painfully unprepared<br />

at the salsa night a few doors day, you can slink down to<br />

this fancy disco for something a little more free-formed. The bar<br />

features DJs and various theme nights from house to hip hop and<br />

the full bar also offers an assortment of cocktails whenever you<br />

take a break from the throbbing crowd. QOpen 20.00 - 03.00.<br />

Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission €5. PJAG<br />

Dancing<br />

Piano Bar B-2, Nazorjeva 6, tel. (+386) 1244 23 11.<br />

Hardly worth a second glance during the day, this long, thin little<br />

shopping-centre café transforms itself during the evening into<br />

something charming and unique. Home to the city’s fans of swing,<br />

salsa, old Yugoslavian rock music and more besides, evenings<br />

here include singles nights for the over-30s and plenty of opportunities<br />

to dance in couples just like they did in the old days. For more<br />

information about this scene, check out the interesting website<br />

at www.vintage.si. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00<br />

- 02:00. Closed Sun. No admission. PJAEGBX<br />

Zlati Zob E-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 59 13 95 52.<br />

While Slovenia enjoys a new life in the EU and puts its Yugoslavian<br />

days behind it, in Ljubljana you can still find echoes of<br />

the many cultures that made up that old land, and at Zlati<br />

Zob the city’s new “ethno-club” those echoes can take the<br />

form of a singer’s wail or a throbbing balkan gypsy beat. The<br />

cafe/club’s interior, full of Balkan artifacts and traditional<br />

instruments hanging off the walls, hints at the raucous nights<br />

of music and dancing that occur when the sun goes down and<br />

various regional artists and DJ entertain the crowd. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.<br />

PALEGBXW<br />

Jazz Clubs<br />

Gajo Jazz Club B-2, Beethovnova 8, tel. (+386) 1425<br />

32 06, www.jazzclubgajo.com. Roll over Beethoven - this<br />

is perhaps Ljubljana’s most famous Jazz venue, with regular<br />

jam sessions (Monday nights), concerts by local and international<br />

artists and other events. besides listening to music,<br />

it’s a great place for a few beers too. During the summer<br />

months the club moves outdoors to a garden opposite the<br />

main entrance to the National Gallery on Tomšičeva. The<br />

programme can be found on the club’s English-language<br />

website. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.<br />

PJAEGS<br />

Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. (+386) 1283 14 57. This<br />

is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his great<br />

aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffiti-spattered<br />

nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans, but in<br />

Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly small<br />

bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls and<br />

a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus<br />

once referred to as black classical music. Most of the time<br />

the music is pre-recorded, but they do have the occasional<br />

live band in from time to time. Call to see what’s on. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.<br />

JA6LEGBD<br />

Keeping warm with a pint outside Premier Pub<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Pubs<br />

Cutty Sark B-3, Knafljev Prehod 1, tel. (+386) 1425 14<br />

77. One of the most popular bars in the city and frequented by<br />

all manner of locals and expats, Cutty Sark provides two dark<br />

bars and a summer terrace, childish art on the walls, model ships<br />

and the world’s biggest chewing gum machine. Featuring a good<br />

selection of local and international beer, find it bursting with<br />

interesting specimens most evenings. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,<br />

Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PTJA6UEGBXSW<br />

Guinness Pub B-3, Gosposka 3, tel. (+386) 1426 62 93,<br />

www.guinnesspub.net. Enough Guinness mirrors to keep<br />

everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable cubby<br />

holes and a splendid little summer courtyard in the heart of the<br />

student district. Draught beers include Guinness plus Kilkenny<br />

and that old English 80s favourite, Woodpecker cider. Friendly<br />

and different enough to be worthy of at least a little plaudits, put<br />

this one on your pub-crawl list for sure. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,<br />

Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBX<br />

Patrick’s Irish Pub C-2, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230<br />

17 68. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric<br />

of a society, not least to the basic atmosphere of the classic<br />

Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog<br />

that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall<br />

atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals,<br />

expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite<br />

Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus<br />

there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7).<br />

PTJA6EGSW<br />

Premier Pub C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 17, tel. (+386)<br />

1430 52 31. A pleasant enough riverside café-bar with its<br />

very own whiskey bar, sport on the television, postcards from<br />

friends who long since moved on and good outdoor seating<br />

when the weather’s right. Hardly the sort of place to spend<br />

and entire evening in, but worth checking out all the same if<br />

you’re planning on drinking yourself up and down both sides of<br />

the water for the evening. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00<br />

- 01:00. PJA6ULEGX<br />

Turbo Folk<br />

Born in Serbia in the early 1990s and having close cultural<br />

links with the Bulgarian Chalga, Turkish Arabesk and Greek<br />

Laïka scenes, Turbo Folk mixes traditional Balkan folk music<br />

with the westernised club music coming out of the region at<br />

the time. The term was first used by the Montenegrin-born<br />

Serbian singer-songwriter Rambo Amadeus, essentially as<br />

a joke, but has now become synonymous with the genre.<br />

En Pub H-1, Celovška 150, tel. (+386) 1514 11 26, www.<br />

enpub.si. The true sounds of the suburbs echo around the<br />

walls of this extraordinary little place practically non-stop. Leave<br />

your gun in the car, clear security and the metal detector, and<br />

you’re free to indulge. Every night is different, from hopelessly<br />

sentimental romantic nights of ballads to all-night DJ parties<br />

featuring the classic Turbo Folk girls. Refreshment features<br />

everything from bottles of ice-cold local beer to cocktails to<br />

ice cream, and they even do sandwiches and coffee. QOpen<br />

06:30 - 24:00, Thu 06:30 - 03:00, Fri 06:30 - 05:00, Sat 09:00<br />

- 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.PTA6ULGBXW<br />

Klub 12 G-1, Prušnikova 95/(+386) 041 67 85 77, www.<br />

klub-12.com. Turbo Folk’s classic Ljubljana after-party venue<br />

is a good few kilometres from the city centre and doesn’t see<br />

a single client until around 04:00, but that’s all part of the fun<br />

really. After the other venues have closed their doors the deal<br />

is to pile into this dark underground cavern with its strange red<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Around Ljubljana<br />

nightLiFe<br />

NON-STOP<br />

0 - 24<br />

lighting, pictures of naked women with bows and arrows on the<br />

walls and excruciatingly loud music and carry on with the party.<br />

This is hedonism at its very best, to the point that many of the<br />

true hardcore followers of the faith scrabble out of here blurry<br />

eyed in the morning and start all over again. Unmisable for those<br />

who know and love how to party. QOpen 07:00 - 05:00, Sat,<br />

Sun 18:00 - 05:00. PALEGX<br />

Casino Tivoli Hraška 21, Lesce, tel. (+386) 4532<br />

55 60, info@casino-tivoli.si, www.casino-tivoli.si.<br />

Out near the gas station and a small shopping center in<br />

nearby Lesce, Casino Tivoli sits as a glittering bastion of<br />

gambling for the truly devoted. There are no croupiers or<br />

card dealers here, no VIP for high rollers, just two levels<br />

of electronic roulette and electronic slot machines. The<br />

price of admission gets you two free glasses of beer or<br />

wine, and they keep a chilled self-serve buffet off to the<br />

side in case you find you’ve spent your grocery money.<br />

Q Open 24hrs. Admission €5 (includes gambling ticket<br />

and 2 drinks). PAULEGX<br />

Manila Club <strong>Savska</strong> <strong>34</strong>, <strong>Kranj</strong>, tel. +386) 51 62<br />

05 45, info@manila-club.si, www.manila-club.si.<br />

Located in the <strong>Mega</strong> Centre complex in <strong>Kranj</strong>, Manila<br />

is a large multi-function club that serves as a bar and<br />

billiards hall during the day and a party venue at night.<br />

It attracts a younger crowd who come on the weekends<br />

to listen to local and foreign DJs do their thing. There’s<br />

also a VIP room that can be rented for private parties<br />

or other events - and even includes a sauna. Q Open<br />

10:00-24:00 Sun - Thur, 10:00-05:00 Fri - Sat.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


AduLt entertAinment<br />

Although Ljubljana’s a relatively small city, it does make space<br />

for sexy and sinful late night adult entertainment. Several<br />

strip clubs have recently sprung up around the city displaying<br />

a diversity of foreign girls for stripping, private dances or just<br />

to keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink,<br />

and we mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne.<br />

Escorts in Ljubljana are limited, but your hotel may be able to<br />

advise you where to find a companion for the night. Although<br />

prostitution is not illegal in Slovenia, you’d have to look very<br />

hard to find any girl working the streets. Of course, we don’t<br />

advise that you try as these girls don’t necessarily undergo<br />

regular medical tests. It is best to stick with the more ‘refined’<br />

selection we have on offer in Ljubljana.<br />

Escape E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74.<br />

On the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s surroundings<br />

are consistent with the rock club atmosphere that<br />

is housed above it. There is a small stage for striptease,<br />

but lapdances and personal attention are the real focus<br />

here with private dances available at your table or in one<br />

of the back rooms. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admission €16.<br />

PJAG<br />

Hard Core Cafe G-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. (+386) 41 71 66<br />

12, www.hardcorecafe.si. With a name like that you can’t<br />

help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is<br />

simple: outstanding erotic entertainment provided by prefessionals<br />

in a safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and<br />

backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate<br />

‘lady drinks’, there is always something worth watching on<br />

stage, and entrance is free. Drinks are reasonably priced<br />

- even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are<br />

on the whole of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere.<br />

QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAG<br />

Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska <strong>34</strong>, tel. (+386) 1470 11<br />

48, ecarte@siol.net. The most centrally-located adult<br />

entertainment club in town in the basement of popular<br />

Hotel Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of<br />

girls, who you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly<br />

topless cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are<br />

not offered here, when the women are not dancing they<br />

are available for some personal interaction. QOpen 22:00<br />

- 04:00. PYJAEGBXSW<br />

Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala<br />

18), tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, info@latino-club.com,<br />

www.latino-nightclub.com. Located underneath the<br />

Arena Centre in BTC, Ljubljana’s newest nightclub is an<br />

immaculately kept affair that could easily double as a<br />

mainsteam club - if not for the topless girls on stage.<br />

As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are<br />

Dominican but there are also some Thai and Eastern<br />

European girls for the sake of variety. Drinks are only at a<br />

slight premium to what you’d pay in the city centre and a<br />

two-song private dance will set you back €30. Every Friday<br />

there’s a special show, usually featuring a couple large<br />

snakes or girl-on-girl preformance, and package deals<br />

are also available for groups. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Free<br />

admission. PALG<br />

Tanga J-1/2, Brnčičeva 13, info@tangaclub.com, www.<br />

tangaclub.com. This club is quite a trek from the center of<br />

town, along a lonely stretch of railroad track so definitely<br />

bring a map. Once you get there, head upstairs from the<br />

bar café and find a neon-lighted multi-leveled space with<br />

a wide selection of international ladies and a menu full of<br />

drinks and services. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Free admission.<br />

PALG<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana was at the forefront of the gay and lesbian movement<br />

in Eastern Europe during the mid-1980s, and since<br />

then has maintained an active GLBT community with many<br />

well-organised groups promoting gay rights and culture.<br />

This year marks the official 25th anniversary of the movement<br />

in Slovenia, and has already seen some important<br />

events, including the opening of the Q Cultural Centre back<br />

in April and an especially active Pride week earlier this<br />

summer. However, it would be a stretch to call Ljubljana a<br />

gay-friendly city - perhaps gay-ambivalent would be more<br />

apropos - as incidents of discrimination and even outright<br />

violence are not unheard of.<br />

Cafés<br />

Café Open B-4, Hrenova 19, tel. (+386) 41 391 371,<br />

info@open.si, http://www.open.si. Some places try a<br />

little too hard to attract specific groups of people, but this<br />

coffee shop isn’t one of them. A gay and lesbian owned café<br />

near the river in a quiet neighbourhood south of the old<br />

town, it’s smallish multi-coloured interior is bright and airy,<br />

and there’s usually good music drifting out of the speakers<br />

above. From time to time it hosts cultural events including<br />

music and literature evenings. Check their website (Slovene<br />

only) for details of upcoming events. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,<br />

Sun 16:00 - 22:00.<br />

Events<br />

Ljubljana Gay and Lesbian Film Festival (Festival<br />

Gejevskega in Lezbičnega Filma) B-2, Kolodvorska<br />

13, www.ljudmila.org/siqrd/fglf/. Originally launched in<br />

1984, it holds the distinction of being the oldest gay and<br />

lesbian film festival in all of Europe. It’s held annually the first<br />

week of December, and films are screened from all over the<br />

world. This year’s 25th anniversary event promises to be<br />

the largest ever.<br />

Nightlife<br />

K4 Roza B-2, Kersnikova 4, fax (+386) 1438 03 01.<br />

Every Sunday, and some Saturdays, this popular gay-friendly<br />

club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in Slovene) hosts gay and<br />

lesbian nights under its alternate personality, Roza Klub<br />

- which is also an independent political organisation and one<br />

of the driving forces behind the Gay and Lesbian Film Festival<br />

and Pride week. See our full review of K4 under clubs in the<br />

Nightlife section. Q Open Tue & Sun from 22:00, Wed-Sat<br />

from 23:00. Mon closed.<br />

Resources<br />

Slovenia for Gay Travelers , tel. (+386) 51 877 245,<br />

sloveniaforgaytravelers@yahoo.com, www.sloveniaforgaytravelers.com.<br />

As the name suggests, these guys<br />

specialise in arranging gay-friendly tours and accommodation<br />

for visitors in Slovenia. Their English language website is immensely<br />

helpful and a good place to start if you’re interested<br />

in planning a trip or just finding out a bit more about gay<br />

culture in the country. A room in Ljubljana’s only gay owned<br />

and operated guest house (SOMI Rooms) can be booked<br />

directly from the website, and they have also put together a<br />

comprehensive gay guide to all of Slovenia - although outside<br />

of the capital the pickings are rather slim.<br />

Saunas & Massage<br />

Gymnasivm Sauna H-1, Pohorskega Bataljona <strong>34</strong>,<br />

tel. (+386) 15<strong>34</strong> 24 85, gymnasium@volja.net, www.<br />

klub-libero.si. Located in north Ljubljana not far from the ring<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

gAy & LesbiAn<br />

road, Gymnasivm is a men’s only sauna and club occupying a<br />

converted house in a mixed residential and industrial area. In<br />

addition to sauna and steam bath facilities, there is also a TV<br />

lounge, snack bar and fitness equipment available. Buses 6,<br />

8, 11 and 14 will all drop you within a short walk of the place,<br />

and photos and more detailed info regarding house rules<br />

can be found in English on their website. Q Mon-Thu 15:00-<br />

22:00, Fri & Sat 15:00-23:00, Sun closed. During summer<br />

17:00-23:00 Mon-Sat.<br />

Sauna Zlati Klub H-2, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1431<br />

51 55, info@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si. The<br />

Gold Club is part of the sports and recreation complex at<br />

the north end of Tivoli Park and the largest sauna in Ljubljana.<br />

Their facilities include several different types of saunas, a<br />

swimming pool, whirlpool and fitness centre, and a wide selection<br />

of massages is also available. While it’s not explicitly<br />

gay-friendly, it is popular with gay men to varying degrees<br />

depending upon whom you ask. Admission is between €10-<br />

15.50 for up to three hours, and €2 for each additional hour.<br />

Q Mon-Thu, Sun & Holidays 10:00-22:00, Fri & Sat 10:00-<br />

23:00. Tuesdays are women only. Closes at 20:00 during the<br />

summer, except on Fridays.<br />

Thai Sabai B-1, Dunajska 9a, tel. (+386) 31 31 00<br />

75, info@thaisabai-si.com, www.thaisabai-si.com. Gayfriendly<br />

Thai massage parlour just north of the city centre<br />

- right next to the hideous Delo building. They provide a variety<br />

of traditional massages at competitive prices, and all their<br />

masseuses are certified by the Thai Ministry of Public Health.<br />

They’re also currently offering a 15% discount, and all new<br />

customers receive a coupon for a free massage for a friend.<br />

Erotic massages are not available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,<br />

Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (€25-55).<br />

Sports & Recreation<br />

Out in Slovenia Kašeljska 121, tel. (+386) 41 562<br />

375, info@outinslovenija.com, www.outinslovenija.<br />

com. Formerly an independent group founded in 2000, it<br />

is now serves as something of the sports wing of a larger<br />

organisation (DIH or the Association for the Integration<br />

of Homosexuality). They organise sports and recreation<br />

activities several times per week, which regularly include<br />

bowling, badminton, volleyball and swimming. Membership<br />

is not necessary in order to participate, although<br />

members do get discounts. Their website is in both<br />

Slovene and English and includes a calendar of upcoming<br />

events.<br />

Q Cultural Centre<br />

Q Cultural Centre D-2, Masarykova 24 (Metelkova),<br />

tel. (+386) 14 30 35 35, kulturnicenterq@<br />

gmail.com, www.kulturnicenterq.org. Officially<br />

opened on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniversary<br />

of the the gay rights movement in Slovenia, the<br />

centre has roots going all the way back to 1993. It’s<br />

a joint project of ŠKUC - one of Slovenia’s largest arts<br />

and cultural organisations, and a leading proponent of<br />

gay rights - and two long-running gay and lesbian clubs,<br />

Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on the same<br />

premises. The centre’s main focus is the promotion of<br />

gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events such<br />

as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances,<br />

exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both<br />

clubs also host parties every Friday (and sometimes on<br />

Saturday) night from around 20:00 till late.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


0 whAt to see whAt to to see<br />

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors<br />

to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to<br />

Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more<br />

than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary<br />

combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s<br />

to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional<br />

blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all<br />

work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.<br />

Bridges<br />

Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) B-3, . Another<br />

Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after<br />

the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars<br />

of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps,<br />

others simply holding stone balls in the air.<br />

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) B-3, . Perhaps Ljubljana’s<br />

most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious<br />

merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a<br />

medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges<br />

designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the<br />

whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.<br />

Buildings<br />

Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) B-3, Mestni Trg 1. The 15th<br />

century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, and<br />

given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the<br />

original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can<br />

view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet<br />

hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office.<br />

Q Guided tours €2.<br />

Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) B-2, Štefanova 1. Believe it<br />

or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one<br />

of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933.<br />

The rooftop café sadly closed long ago.<br />

Tourist information<br />

Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (Turistični<br />

informacijski center) C-3, Adamič-Lundrovo<br />

Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15, fax (+386) 1306<br />

12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si. A<br />

small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty<br />

of maps, brochures galore in English, information about<br />

what’s on in the city and a range of information on what<br />

to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can<br />

help with accommodation, and should be one of your first<br />

ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the<br />

best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further<br />

investigation. Friendly, informative staff too. Q Open October-May<br />

08:00 - 19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00.<br />

Also at the bus and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open<br />

08:00 - 22:00, Oct-May 10:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00-<br />

15:00, Sunday Closed). 22 December 2009 - 2 January<br />

2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00<br />

Slovenian Tourist Information <strong>Center</strong> (STIC) C-<br />

3, Krekov trg 10, tel. (+386) 1306 45 75, fax (+386)<br />

1306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.<br />

si. Slovenia’s national tourism office. Maps, brochures and<br />

general information about travel throughout the country.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Open October-May 08:00 - 19:00,<br />

Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday closed June-September<br />

08:00 - 21:00, 5 December 2009 - 2 January 2010 Monday<br />

to Saturday 8:00-19:00, Sundays closed<br />

Cemeteries<br />

Ž a l e C e m e t e r y<br />

(Pokopališče Žale) J-<br />

1, Med Hmeljniki 2, tel.<br />

(+386) 1420 17 00, info@<br />

zale.si, www.zale.si. Built<br />

on the site of a much earlier<br />

cemetery attached to<br />

the neighbouring (and still<br />

standing) Holy Cross Church,<br />

what’s arguably Plečnik’s<br />

B. Jakše & S. Jeršič Ljubljana masterpiece was<br />

completed in 1940. The<br />

grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades<br />

supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the<br />

living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself<br />

are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments<br />

including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound,<br />

reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The<br />

cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold<br />

and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place<br />

of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find<br />

a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.<br />

QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.<br />

Churches<br />

As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a<br />

number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque<br />

period under the influence of Venetian architecture.<br />

Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are<br />

open to the public from 15:00-18:00.<br />

Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) C-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel.<br />

(+386) 1231 06 84. With its classic twin towers and trademark<br />

single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral,<br />

more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates<br />

everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too<br />

exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer<br />

details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site<br />

of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and<br />

appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century.<br />

Inside the Baroque masterpiece’s pink shell is a cavalcade<br />

of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily<br />

detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that<br />

only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the<br />

ornate choir stalls and Robba’s maginficent angels on the<br />

main altar. Don’t forget to check out the astonishing pair of<br />

bronze doors on the western and southern sides. Dating<br />

from 1996 and commissioned to celebrate John Paul II’s<br />

visit to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of<br />

Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting six cardinals<br />

in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history<br />

of the diocese of the city.<br />

Evangelical Church (Evangeličanska Cerkev)<br />

B-2, Gosposvetska 9, tel. (+386) 1252 72 80, evang.<br />

cerkev.sl@siol.net, www.evang-cerkev.si. Completed<br />

in 1852, this fairly unremarkable church represents much<br />

that is classic German (or, to be exact, Austrian) austerity.<br />

The simple, single-towered magnolia façade hides a basic<br />

interior, most of it made from wood, with a few interesting<br />

flourishes. The main organ dates from 1878, and the painting<br />

on the main altar is the work of a virtually unknown Austrian<br />

by the name of Künnel.<br />

slovenia.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Top 5 sights (other than the castle)<br />

Franciscan Church<br />

( Fr a n č i š k a n s k i<br />

S a m o s t a n ) B - 3 ,<br />

Prešernov Trg 4, tel.<br />

(+386) 1242 93 00.<br />

Built in an instantly recognisable,<br />

mildly swirly Baroque<br />

fashion, Ljubljana’s<br />

mid-16th-century Franciscan<br />

Church dominates<br />

Prešernov Trg like a big<br />

pink birthday cake. Part<br />

of a larger complex with<br />

an additional Franciscan<br />

monastery, if you’re lucky<br />

enough to find the doors<br />

unlocked expect a few<br />

D.Silpa<br />

treats inside including<br />

Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating<br />

from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing<br />

a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For<br />

those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic<br />

architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place<br />

to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Mestni Tr g (Town<br />

Square) B-3, The centre<br />

of medieval Ljubljana, the<br />

town’s main square was<br />

damaged in the 1511 earthquake<br />

and subsequently<br />

rebuilt in Baroque style. The<br />

square houses the Town<br />

Hall, City Art Museum, the<br />

decorated 16th century Lichtenberg<br />

house and the<br />

Souvan house with its Empire<br />

façade.<br />

Prešernov Trg B-<br />

3, Formally a meeting<br />

place for several roads<br />

in front of one of the<br />

old entrance gates to<br />

the city, and a public<br />

square since Ljubljana’s<br />

original defensive<br />

walls were torn down<br />

in the middle of the<br />

19th century, this is<br />

one of the city’s most<br />

important landmarks.<br />

Named after Slovenia’s<br />

national poet France<br />

Prešeren (German,<br />

Fran z Pres ch eren,<br />

1800-1849), it’s both a<br />

popular meeting place<br />

(notably under the large statue of the man after whom the<br />

square is named) and a site for concerts and events during<br />

the summer. The charming little public space is ringed by a<br />

number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art<br />

Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary<br />

piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the<br />

now sadly closed Centromerkur department store.<br />

Tivoli Park A-1/2,<br />

. Tivoli is where the<br />

people of Ljubljana who<br />

don’t leave the city<br />

spend the weekend.<br />

Laid out in 1813 as<br />

a place for the general<br />

health and recreation<br />

of the city’s<br />

population, at some<br />

five square kilometres,<br />

Ljubljana’s gargantuan<br />

bucolic lung - literally<br />

Mansion-LTB-archive two streets west of<br />

the city centre - is so<br />

packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth<br />

visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst<br />

rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics<br />

encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world),<br />

pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for<br />

the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best<br />

way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available<br />

for rent from various points throughout the park during the<br />

summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will<br />

bring the bike back.<br />

As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area,<br />

Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including<br />

the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious<br />

17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum<br />

of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern<br />

reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the<br />

city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to<br />

Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an<br />

early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene<br />

national identity.<br />

Z m a j s k i M o s t<br />

(Dragon Bridge)<br />

Kopitarjeva Ulica.<br />

Since i t opened in<br />

1901, Zmajski Most<br />

has been locked in<br />

a fierce competition<br />

with the castle and<br />

the conspicuously pink<br />

Franciscan Church for<br />

the title of Most Photographed<br />

Sight in<br />

Ljubljana. At any given<br />

moment during daylight<br />

hours (and only<br />

slightly less frequently<br />

at night) there is sure<br />

to be at least a person<br />

or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding<br />

either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn<br />

the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no<br />

exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we<br />

snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten<br />

days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste<br />

apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a<br />

certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a<br />

smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury<br />

is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it<br />

does amuse us whenever we walk past.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

1


2 whAt to see<br />

Holy Trinity Church<br />

(Cerkev svete trojice)<br />

B-3, Slovenska 21, tel.<br />

(+386) 1252 48 64. Constructed<br />

to a design by<br />

Carlo Marinuzzi between<br />

1718 and 1726 from a<br />

commission by local merchant<br />

Jakob Schell von<br />

Schellenburg, and with all<br />

the usual additions over<br />

the centuries, this imposing<br />

Baroque marvel dominates<br />

D.Silpa the area it’s located in not<br />

least for its unusual, gabled rooftop façade. Part church and<br />

part monastery, the former’s interior is somewhat restrained,<br />

its main outstanding feature being a Francesco Robba altar,<br />

carved from African marble around 1740. The main steps date<br />

from the 1930s and are the work of our old friend Plečnik.<br />

Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) A-2,<br />

Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built alongside the<br />

southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the<br />

city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church<br />

complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth<br />

visiting during services, daily at 10:00.<br />

St Peter (Cerkev Sv. Petra) D-2/3, Trubarjeva 80, tel.<br />

(+386) 1231 79 65. The heritage of the Roman Catholic<br />

St Peter’s Church goes back long before this building was<br />

completed in 1733, with a number of churches standing on<br />

this spot for some 500 years before Giovanni Fusconi’s superb<br />

Baroque designs were realised. Inspired by the great churches<br />

of Venice, much has been changed over the centuries, including<br />

Neoclassical additions following the 1895 earthquake and the<br />

construction of a new façade, complete with interesting fish<br />

details over the doors between 1938 and 1940 by the local<br />

architect Ivan Vurnik. Many changes have been made inside as<br />

well, including much work by Vurnik’s wife, Helena. Points of particular<br />

interest include Franc Jelovšek’s magnificent frescoes<br />

and several altar paintings by Valentin Metzinger.<br />

Synagogue (Sinagoga) A-3, Tržaška 2. Inside the headquarters<br />

of the Jewish Community of Slovenia, the small synagogue<br />

was the last synagogue to open in a European capital city<br />

and dates from 2003. The city has no rabbi; the chief Rabbi for<br />

Slovenia is Mr Ariel Haddad, who is based in Trieste, Italy.<br />

Tours<br />

Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one<br />

sort or another. Some are good, others just a way of making<br />

money. You should be able to spot the scams without<br />

too much difficulty. The Tourist Information Centre also offers<br />

several walking tours of the city, and can even, if you<br />

give them plenty of warning, organise an original one just<br />

for you. The Jewish Community of Slovenia (see Jewish<br />

Ljubljana) is the best place to contact for all Jewish-related<br />

tours of the city and Slovenia in general.<br />

Digital Tour Guide C-3, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15,<br />

tr.im/digital_tours Let your headseat tour guides Ben and<br />

Mandy take you on a two-hour trip past Ljubljana’s highlights.<br />

Or switch to their German friends Anna and Thomas, or the<br />

Italian duo Paulo and Oriana. With the mp4 digital tour guide<br />

player and map in hand, you’ll have explanations about the<br />

city’s history and sights, and can see pictures too. Rent the<br />

player at TIC (Adamič-Lundrovo 2) and STIC (Krekov trg 10).<br />

Q Player rental (5 hours) and map €10 (ID and €10 deposit<br />

required).<br />

Ljubljana Night & Day Tel. (+386) 51 893 805,<br />

ljubljanabynight@gmail.com. Let pretty English speaking<br />

guides take you and your mates on an insider’s tour of Ljubljana’s<br />

best bars and clubs. Catering to groups of 5-20 people,<br />

pick any Friday or Saturday night for this experience, or go<br />

for daylight activities such as the adrenaline park, paintball,<br />

karting and excursions.<br />

Tourist Train (Turistični Vlakec) B-3, Stritarjeva.<br />

Spare yourself the slog up the hill by taking the tourist train<br />

ride up to the castle. Q Departs regularly between 10:00<br />

- 18:00. Return ticket €2-3.<br />

Monuments<br />

France Prešeren B-3. Slovenia’s national poet France<br />

Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his<br />

honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an<br />

interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal<br />

point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the<br />

large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and<br />

sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a<br />

small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts<br />

from his writing around the base.<br />

Puppet Theatre Clock C-3, Krekov Trg 2. Every hour<br />

between 08:00 and 20:00, puppets pop out of the clock at<br />

the top of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater building, accompanied<br />

by music. First, Kobilica the horse shows up, followed by<br />

Krpan, carrying a knife; when he raises it, the horse hurries<br />

back inside with Krpan in persuit - a scene taken from the<br />

puppet show that opened then new theatre in 1984. Krpan<br />

has been chasing Kobilica around the clock and delighting<br />

children since 1992.<br />

Robbov Vodnjak (Robba Fountain) B-3, Mestni Trg.<br />

One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely<br />

1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque<br />

sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known<br />

as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last<br />

of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him<br />

to complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he<br />

finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand<br />

fountains of Rome, the artist’s masterpiece features three<br />

river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica<br />

and Sava rivers.<br />

One of the best ways to see the sights U. Hocevar<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Museums & Galleries<br />

Brewery Museum (Pivovarski Muzej) B-1,<br />

Pivovarniška 2, tel. (+386) 1471 73 40, pivovarski.<br />

muzej@pivo-union.si, www.pivo-union.si. The Union<br />

Brewery has been providing quality beer to the masses for<br />

almost 150 years. The brewery’s museum, inside the same<br />

building that they make the stuff in the attic of the company’s<br />

former malt house, provides an intriguing insight into the history<br />

and development of beer-making in Slovenia with the aid<br />

of all manner of exhibits from life-size recreations to some of<br />

the beautiful old machinery that helped launch a thousand<br />

drunken nights. Visits need to be booked in advance, and<br />

include a tour of the current brewery, the screening of a<br />

short film, and of course the chance to sample some of the<br />

products. Q Open 08:00-13:00 on every first Tuesday of the<br />

month. Admission free.<br />

City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) B-3, Gosposka<br />

15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mm-lj.si, www.<br />

mm-lj.si. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians<br />

who know how to show people a good time, showcasing<br />

Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history.<br />

Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this<br />

is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history.<br />

Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate<br />

costumes, old photographs and much more besides. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-language<br />

guided tours Sun at 13:00.<br />

Contemporary History<br />

Museum (Muzej<br />

Novejše Zgodovine)<br />

A-1, Celovška 23, tel.<br />

(+386) 13 00 96 10,<br />

w w w.muzej-nz.si. I f<br />

you needed a reason<br />

to visit Tivoli Park, it’s<br />

here. This fascinating<br />

museum inside a wonder-<br />

Matthew Armstrong<br />

ful 18th-century mansion<br />

presents the history of<br />

Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until independence<br />

in 1991. Using a combination of well-presented<br />

exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household<br />

items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation<br />

through and between the two world wars and the difficult<br />

and truly fascinating post-war communist years. Q Open<br />

Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00, Thur 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Admission €7/3.50.<br />

International Centre<br />

of Graphic Arts<br />

(Mednarodni Grafični<br />

Likovni <strong>Center</strong>) A-<br />

2, Pod Turnom 3, tel.<br />

(+386) 1241 38 00,<br />

www.mglc-lj.si. Located<br />

inside the gorgeous 17thcentury<br />

Tivoli Mansion,<br />

this must-see attraction<br />

for anyone with even a<br />

Nena<br />

passing interesting in the<br />

visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints and over 4000<br />

artist’s books and other printed ephemera, mostly from the<br />

second half of the 20th century onwards and including the<br />

work of many of the great masters of European graphic arts.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open Monday to Friday<br />

09:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun & holidays. Admission €3.40/1.70.<br />

During the Biennial €6/3.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana Card<br />

whAt to see<br />

Ljubljana Castle<br />

Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski<br />

Grad) C-3, Grajska Planota<br />

1, tel. (+386) 12 32 99 94,<br />

info@ljubljanafestival.si, www.<br />

ljubljanafestival.si. Perched<br />

on top of Castle Hill (Grajska<br />

Planota) and dominating the city<br />

skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s<br />

magnificent castle stands on the<br />

site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of<br />

land stretching away to the south of the old town. The<br />

current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary<br />

16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake<br />

of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s<br />

Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as<br />

both a royal residence and a military barracks over the<br />

centuries. The current main points of interest for the visitor<br />

are both located inside the Outlook Tower (Razgledni<br />

Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m<br />

by the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum<br />

screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of<br />

special glasses and a headset for an English translation,<br />

showing an interesting and informative history of the<br />

castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you<br />

to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps,<br />

each individually decorated with an image of the tower<br />

and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small<br />

viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful<br />

views of the city. Underneath the tower and located down<br />

a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in<br />

the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s<br />

Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled<br />

in the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15thcentury<br />

wall paintings and not a lot more. The castle also<br />

has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions,<br />

a café, souvenir shop and a branch of the city’s Puppet<br />

Museum. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and<br />

during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a<br />

popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths<br />

lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the<br />

Puppet Theatre. Q Winter Hours:<br />

Castle & Café<br />

10:00-21:00 daily<br />

Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum<br />

10:00-18:00 daily<br />

Funicular Railway<br />

10:00-21:00 daily<br />

Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum<br />

€3.50 for adults<br />

€2.00 for secondary students, university students,<br />

seniors and groups (over 15 people)<br />

Castle tours<br />

€5.00 for adults<br />

€3.50 for secondary students, university students and<br />

seniors.<br />

The Ljubljana Card offers reductions<br />

of up to 35% on admission fees, taxi<br />

rides, shop prices, car rental and other<br />

expenses. The card is valid for 72 hours<br />

and costs €12.52. Find it for sale at all<br />

tourist information centres and at various hotels, businesses<br />

and shops, or order it at www.ljubljanacard.com.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

3


4 whAt to see<br />

National Gallery (Narodna<br />

Galerija) B-2,<br />

Prešernova 24, tel. (+386)<br />

1241 54 18, www.ng-slo.<br />

si. Inside Czech architect<br />

František Edmund Škabrout’s<br />

fabulous late 19th-century<br />

neo-Renaissance masterpiece<br />

with an additional mod-<br />

LTB-archive<br />

ern wing thrown on for good<br />

measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in<br />

Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the<br />

20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as<br />

Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and<br />

Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition<br />

in the building focuses on European painting, and includes<br />

some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian<br />

painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th<br />

century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has<br />

several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Mon. Admission €7/3.50.<br />

National Museum (Narodni Muzej) A-2/3, Prešernova<br />

20, tel. (+386) 1241 44 00, info@nms.si, www.narmuz-lj.si.<br />

Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late<br />

19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine<br />

painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this<br />

is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841.<br />

Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated<br />

to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the<br />

usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a<br />

large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework<br />

dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding<br />

regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission<br />

€3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.<br />

Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej)<br />

A-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 1241 09 40, uprava@<br />

pms-lj.si, www2.pms-lj.si. Attached to Ljubljana’s<br />

National Museum, the Natural History Museum isn’t the<br />

best in the world by a long way but it does offer an assortment<br />

of oddities to beat the rainy blues away or to simply<br />

keep the children amused for a while. Among the many<br />

peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete<br />

set of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the<br />

museum’s strangest display. Known so for its pinky human<br />

flesh appearance, the little proteus anguinus is a<br />

blind amphibian found exclusively in a relatively small area<br />

including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina.<br />

The gift shop features a handful of fun things for the kids<br />

including small build-your-own dinosaur kits. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2.50, free first<br />

Sunday of the month.<br />

Plečnik House (Arhitekturni<br />

Muzej, Plečnikova<br />

zbirka) B-4, Karunova 4, tel.<br />

(+386) 1280 16 00, pz@aml.<br />

si, www.aml.si. The Slovenian<br />

visionary architect Jože Plečnik<br />

lived in this house from 1921 until<br />

his death in 1957, making this brilliant<br />

monument to the great man<br />

and his work poignant for both its<br />

immediate connection with him as<br />

well as being the building in which<br />

he did most of his work, much of it<br />

LTB-archive on the actual building itself. Organised<br />

into both a living recreation<br />

of how and where Plečnik lived and a fascinating insight into<br />

his often revolutionary ideas, exhibits include recreations of<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

everything from his kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and countless<br />

examples of original drawings and models. The museum can<br />

only be visited as part of a guided tour. Q Mon & Fri 10:00-<br />

15:00, Tues, Wed & Thu 10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-15:00, Sun<br />

and holidays closed.There are only guided visits on the hour.<br />

Up to 7 visitors at a time allowed. Last tour is one hour before<br />

closing time. Admission €4/2.<br />

Railway Museum (Železniški Muzej) B-1, Parmova<br />

35, tel. (+386) 1291 26 41. Housed primarily in a<br />

wonderful semicircular brick locomotive shed, the current<br />

incarnation of this excellent museum dates from 2004<br />

and offers an exceptional glimpse behind the history of<br />

the technology, culture and people of the nation’s railway<br />

heritage. In the shed find a chorusline of vast old steam<br />

locomotives, the oldest dating from 1861, whilst another<br />

building plays host to several rooms of signal equipment,<br />

railway eccentricities, uniforms, a recreation of old station<br />

master’s office and, up a wiggly spiral staircase, a small art<br />

gallery featuring the railway-related paintings of one of the<br />

museum’s former directors. Outside find even more exhibits<br />

from rusting trains to a small scale model of a viaduct. This<br />

highly recommended museum will keep boys of all ages occupied<br />

for a pleasant hour or more. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Mon. Admission €3/2.<br />

Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski<br />

Muzej) D-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 1300 87 00,<br />

etnomuz@etno-muzej.si, www.etno-muzej.si. The<br />

impressive Ethnographic Museum’s aims are to the link<br />

past and present, different cultures as well as nature<br />

and civilisation in creative and imaginative ways through<br />

the use of both exhibitions and workshops. Whatever<br />

the exhibitions on display, whether about Slovenian folk<br />

music, traditional horsehair sieves or any number of other<br />

topics, the clever use of materials, interactive displays<br />

and an excellent choice of English descriptions makes<br />

this place an essential place to visit. Find the entrance in<br />

the large square at the back of the building and be sure<br />

to take a look at the huge black and white photographs<br />

incorporated into the pillar designs in the main entrance<br />

hall. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission<br />

€4.50/2.50 (adults/students).<br />

Parks & Gardens<br />

Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) H-3, Ižanska 15,<br />

tel. (+386) 1427 12 80, botanicni.vrt@siol.net, www.<br />

botanicni-vrt.si. Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part of the<br />

biology department of Ljubljana University and has 2 hectares of<br />

protected landscape. Guided tours of groups over 15 people are<br />

possible for a small fee and when booked 10 days in advance. Q<br />

Open 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00. Admission free.<br />

Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) G/H-2, Večna Pot 70, tel.<br />

(+386) 1244 21 88, www.zoo.si. A large complex with a<br />

good variety of native and foreign animals. An excellent day<br />

out for the kids, and educative for parents too. Only a 20<br />

minute walk from the city centre or a short ride on bus 23.<br />

Guided night tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays<br />

from 21:00-23:00. Closes one hour earlier in September. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 19:00. Admission: €6/4.50/3.55/1 for adults/<br />

students/pre-schoolers/pets, free for children under 2.<br />

Squares<br />

Trg Republike (Republic Square) A/B-3. The political<br />

centre of modern Slovenia, this square houses the brutalist<br />

1960 parliament building, two equally delicate office towers<br />

and the Cankarjev dom centre.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

whAt to see<br />

Around Ljubljana<br />

Otočec Castle Otočec 8222, tel. (+386) 73 84<br />

86 00, fax (+386) 73 84 87 05, www.terme-krka.<br />

si. Photogenically located on an island in the middle of<br />

the river Krka , Otočec Castle dates back to at least<br />

1252, when it first found its way into the anals of history<br />

as a property of the Counts of Višnja Gora. Over the<br />

next 700 years ownership passed through a mélange<br />

of distinguished hands, including kings, noble families<br />

and even the Catholic Church. The castle has seen many<br />

architectural changes over the years, with minor alterations<br />

going on well into the 19th century. However, it can<br />

generally be said to have a Baroque style. After being<br />

largely destroyed by the Partisans during the Second<br />

World War, it has since been rebuilt and now serves as<br />

a five-star luxury hotel owned and operated by the good<br />

people at Terme Krka.<br />

Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) Jamska<br />

30, tel. (+386) 1700 01 00, fax (+386) 1700 01<br />

30, info@turizem-kras.si, www.turizem-kras.<br />

si. The largest cave in Europe, words on a page can<br />

hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far,<br />

more than 20 kilometres of galleries have been found,<br />

of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All<br />

the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning<br />

or an afternoon, as you make your way through<br />

the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by<br />

a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot.<br />

Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the<br />

cave was discovered in the 17th century, though never<br />

properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened<br />

as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of<br />

Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular<br />

did the caves become that electric lights were fitted<br />

in 1884: some years before such technology was<br />

first deployed in Ljubljana itself. Highlights of the cave<br />

include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites,<br />

and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and<br />

does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here<br />

are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature<br />

of the cave is a chilly 10 degrees Centigrade, so bring<br />

a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white<br />

salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean<br />

waters of caves of this part of Europe. The<br />

olms can sometimes - though not always - be seen<br />

in some of the pools of water as you make your way<br />

around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to<br />

flash photography and if you do spot one you should<br />

refrain from taking any photos. You will be well and<br />

truly told off if you do. To get to Postojna, take any<br />

train or bus from Ljubljana heading for the coast, and<br />

jump off at Postojna.<br />

Velika Planina Tel. (+386) 1832 72 58/(+386)<br />

51 <strong>34</strong> 14 06, info@velikaplanina.si, www.velikaplanina.si/Home.<br />

Rising 1666 metres into the Julian<br />

Alps, the Velika Planina nature park is only a short drive<br />

north of Ljubljana and makes a great day trip for outdoor<br />

enthusiasts. While the rolling hills are criss-crossed<br />

with hundreds of kilometres of scenic hiking trails and<br />

mountain cycling paths, the most unique attraction has to<br />

be a traditional dairy herdsmen’s settlement that is fullyfunctioning<br />

and open to visitors from June to September.<br />

A cable car will bear the burden of transporting you up the<br />

mountain, and there’s even a handful of traditional dining<br />

and accommodation options once your there.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


shopping<br />

One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you<br />

can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s<br />

streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street<br />

stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number<br />

of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river,<br />

making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shopping<br />

cities in Europe.<br />

If you want a mall experience however, head out to BTC<br />

City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the<br />

road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park)<br />

there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores,<br />

as well as a water park and entertainment city.<br />

Art & Antiques<br />

For antique and art lovers, you will be glad to know that<br />

Ljubljana hosts its very own Antique Flea market, every<br />

Sunday by the Ljubljanica River at the Cankerjevo nabrezje<br />

embankment from 8am-2pm. Various objects include<br />

ornaments, furniture, books and paintings many of which<br />

are still fit for use. Art workshops and studios are also<br />

dotted about town displaying local works from Lubljana’s<br />

vibrant creative life.<br />

Idrijska čipka B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. (+386) 1425<br />

00 51, voncina.irma@siol.net, www.idrija-lace.com.<br />

The region of Idrija is particularly noted for its fine lace work,<br />

dating back to the 1600s, and Idrijska čipka showcases both<br />

traditional designs and more contemporary pieces. At the<br />

shop you can get an introduction to all things lace, including<br />

a demonstration from the shop assistant on the piece she is<br />

currently working on - she claimed that she is just a beginner,<br />

but it looked pretty perfect to us. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00,<br />

15:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Books<br />

Antikvariat B-3/4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 21, tel. (+386)<br />

1425 40 07. A small selection of second-hand books including<br />

a few novels in English. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun<br />

10:00 - 14:00.<br />

Mladinska Knjiga A-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386)<br />

1241 36 80, konzorcij@mk-trgovina.si, www.mladinska.com.<br />

The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest<br />

book retailer, it has by far the largest selection of English<br />

language books in the country including a fairly impressive<br />

travel section. There’s usually at least one table of heavily<br />

discounted tomes if you’d like to pick up something cheap<br />

to read and aren’t too picky. They also operate smaller<br />

shops on seemingly every other street in Ljubljana, which<br />

mostly stock stationery supplies. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Vale Novak B-3, Wolfova 8, tel. (+386) 1422 <strong>34</strong> 10,<br />

www.vale-novak.si. This is an excellent bookshop with<br />

friendly, helpful staff and a good selection of titles in English.<br />

The English language section has everything from classics<br />

to crime, but many other titles are scattered throughout<br />

the store in the areas dedicated to film and music, travel<br />

and art, sport and children’s books. There are also CDs<br />

and DVDs, postcards and books on Slovenia and a wide<br />

selection of magazines. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00<br />

- 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Cosmetics<br />

L’Occitane B-3/H-1, Mestni Trg 7 / Ljubljanske Brigade<br />

33 / Citypark, tel. (+386) 1426 03 72, www.loccitane.<br />

si. Named for an ancient province that once covered a wide<br />

swath of Mediterranean Europe, this well-known international<br />

retailer of body, face and home products currently has ten<br />

stores in Slovenia, three of which are located in Ljubljana. The<br />

environmentally-conscious company aims to preserve the<br />

natural traditions of the Mediterranean region - especially<br />

those of Provence, France where it was founded some thirty<br />

years ago - and each product in its extensive range comes<br />

with a unique true story. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00<br />

- 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Melvita B-3, Stari Trg 18, www.melvita.com. Melvita is<br />

one of France’s leading organic cosmetics brands, which has<br />

been creating natural, high-quality products for more than a<br />

quarter century. Their product range includes a wide selection<br />

of natural ingredients sourced from around the world, which<br />

are produced using mostly organic farming methods. In addition<br />

to their shop in Ljubljana’s old town they also have a<br />

location at the Europark shopping centre in Maribor. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Department Stores<br />

Maxi Market B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 14 76 68<br />

74, www.maxi.si. The quintessential Yugoslavian shopping<br />

centre experience, dating from 1971 and brought slightly up<br />

to date but still retaining most of its original exterior charm.<br />

Maxi Market is perhaps the best one-stop-shop experience<br />

in the city centre. As well as a fairly good selection of clothes<br />

shops, it also has a number of other shopping surprises as<br />

well as a handful of interesting bars and cafés. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Midas B-2, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00,<br />

info@midas.si, www.midas.si. When Midas opened in<br />

October 2007 Ljubljana let out a sigh of relief. Finally the<br />

top international brands were available in Slovenia. Now you<br />

can find the latest collections from houses such as Giorgio<br />

Armani, Blumarine and Givenchy to the more fashion collections<br />

of Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ by Alexander McQueen<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

and See by Chloe. In Midas you can fully immerse yourself<br />

in your favorite brand from underwear, clothes, shoes, bags,<br />

accessories, sunglasses and perfumes. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Nama B-2, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, info@<br />

nama.si, www.nama.si. Just southwest of the Slon hotel,<br />

this well established department store provides several<br />

floors of clothing for men and women, plus household items<br />

and somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30<br />

- 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Fashion<br />

69 Slam B-3, Gallusovo nabrezje 7, tel. (+386) 31 531<br />

900, www.69slam.si/. The Ljubljana outlet of this trendy<br />

international underwear and swimwear brand is somewhat<br />

hidden away on a quieter stretch of the riverside, which is<br />

a bit ironic given that the designs inside are about as loud<br />

as you’re likely to find anywhere. If it’s any indicator of the<br />

store’s popularity amongst the locals, its Facebook page<br />

has almost 2,000 fans. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />

- 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Boutique Lacoste B-2, Dalmatinova 10, tel. (+386)<br />

1431 50 68, info@florida-wellness.si, www.florida-wellness.si.<br />

There may not be any crocodiles in the Ljubljanica,<br />

but there are plenty in this Lacoste boutique. Find a massive<br />

range of gear from the French casual specialists, from<br />

the classic polo shirt to footwear. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Dolce & Gabbana Outlet A-2, Cankarjeva 10. With<br />

its odd basement location, limited working hours and<br />

a sign reading “For members only” out front, we were<br />

surprised not to be asked for a password before being<br />

let in. However, once inside we were well taken care of.<br />

Definitely a unique shopping experience. QOpen 16:00<br />

- 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Emporium E-2, Letališka 3 (BTC), tel. (+386) 15 84 48<br />

00, info@emporium.si, www.emporium.si. This huge fashion<br />

house in the southwest corner of BTC has aisle after aisle<br />

of name-brand designer clothes for men, women and children<br />

at discount prices. With well over 100 different luxury brands<br />

to peruse they’ve been thoughtful enough to also include a<br />

café to rest weary legs and reload on caffeine. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />

Flat C-2, Miklošičeva 18, tel. (+386) 1 2322055/(+386)<br />

1 2322056, info@flat.si, www.flat.si. Sprouting creativity<br />

and a fresh new concept through the creation of innovative<br />

furniture and accessories for home or office. Browse through the<br />

selection of incredibly large wall clocks, hand crafted and painted<br />

bed side tables and hanging chairs made of bamboo. A unique,<br />

modern and humorous collection for a post-modern home.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Furla B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. (+386) 59 054 980,<br />

www.furla.com. Now this is a nice place. Handbags and<br />

coffee, or coffee and handbags. Equal amount of space<br />

is given other to both of these pursuits. Inside the café<br />

area has a great mini-library of books on fashion, so if you<br />

can’t afford one of the handbags you can at least read<br />

about people who can. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00<br />

- 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Kids Couture A-3, Igriška 6, tel. (+386) 14 25 80<br />

33/(+386) 41 83 98 91, info@kidscouture-eu.com,<br />

www.kidscouture-eu.com. Being a baby is no excuse<br />

for not keeping up with the latest fashion trends. Located<br />

next to the Drama theatre in the city centre, Ljubljana’s<br />

foremost retailer of designer kids’ wear carries the newest<br />

collections from names such as D&G, Armani and Ralph<br />

Lauren. Their website is Slovene-only, but all items have<br />

photos so it’s easy enough to navigate even if you haven’t<br />

mastered the language yet.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

shopping<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


shopping<br />

Kipling Store B-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 1251 10 10.<br />

Fine, mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags, purses) for<br />

ladies who lunch. Besides the headline leather there are<br />

also big print bags, which, as its summer in Slovenia, feature<br />

something of a nautical theme. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 13:00.<br />

Lili in Roza B-3, Stari trg 30, tel. (+386) 1425 30<br />

50. Just one street away from the river in the old town, Lili<br />

in Roza is the only clothing store in the city to specialize in<br />

Oilily products. The staff is pleasant and helpful, even if they<br />

cram the shelves with a little too much merchandise. Dealing<br />

exclusively in women’s and children’s clothing, this little shop<br />

is a great place to pick up something for the kids, then take<br />

them for an ice cream right next door.<br />

Mandarina Duck B-3, Wolfova ulica 1, tel. (+386)<br />

1251 10 10. Exquisite handbags and leather goods for the<br />

glitterati. Look out for the trademark wooden ducks in the<br />

window: alas they are not for sale. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Marella A/B-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 1426 92 44,<br />

info@morris.si, www.morris.si. A slightly less expensive<br />

alternative to its upmarket sister, Max Mara, this spacious<br />

newly-renovated boutique on the city’s main thoroughfare<br />

always offers a fresh diversified collection of contemporary<br />

women’s wear. Mediterranean white is the dominant colour of<br />

the Spring/Summer ‘09 collection, which hails the triumphant<br />

return of sophistication while emphasizing the seductive<br />

powers of simplicity. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:30<br />

- 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Max Mara B-2, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1426 58 80,<br />

info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Located opposite the Grand<br />

Hotel Union just steps away from the city’s main square, this<br />

is the well-known Italian fashion group’s Slovenian flagship.<br />

Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap,<br />

so you might want to start thinking now about how you can<br />

claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Peko B-2, Miklošičeva 14, tel. (+386) 59 089 068,<br />

ljubljana.miklosiceva@peko.si, www.peko.si. This new<br />

and nicely laid out shoe shop has everything for the feet, from<br />

Tax refund<br />

If you’re a resident of a non-EU<br />

member state, you’re eligible<br />

to take advantage of tax free<br />

shopping while visiting Slovenia.<br />

If you spend over €50 at any shop<br />

displaying the Global Refund ‘Tax<br />

Free’ logo, they can issue you<br />

with a special Refund Cheque<br />

when you pay. At shops that<br />

don’t officially participate in the program, you’ll need to<br />

ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get<br />

the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When<br />

you leave the EU just show the item you purchased and<br />

relevant paperwork to a customs official, who will give<br />

you the necessary stamps. You can then receive cash or<br />

credit at any of the many Global Refund Offices around<br />

the world - at Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at<br />

the news agents in the check-in area. However, before<br />

making any extravagant purchases assuming you’ll<br />

receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check your<br />

departure info, especially if you have a layover in another<br />

EU country on your way home. Not all customs offices<br />

are open 24 hours, so depending on the time and length<br />

of your layover, it may be next to impossible to get the<br />

official stamps you need.<br />

flash trainers to leather boots to handmade Italian loafers,<br />

with stockings in stock as well. And because a new pair of<br />

shoes needs a new accessory to go with them, Peko stocks<br />

a range of handbags as well. So if you break a heel on the<br />

cobblestones or just feel the need for some retail therapy pop<br />

into Peko to invigorate your soles and your soul.<br />

Pletilni Studio Draž C-4, Gornji Trg 9, tel. (+386) 1426<br />

60 41, www.drazdraz.com. Slovenia counts Italy as a close<br />

neighbor and while Slovenians are becomingly increasingly<br />

more fashion conscious, Ljubljana has not emerged as a fashion<br />

capital yet. However, great fashion designers lihe those at<br />

Pletilni Studio Draž aim to change that. This small boutique<br />

features many of their inspired creations and you can often<br />

find the designers in the shop. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00;15:00-<br />

19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Food & Drink<br />

Gaj Zdravja B/C-3/4, Gornji Trg 17, tel. (+386)<br />

1423 42 52. A small organic supermarket in the old town.<br />

Everything from peanut butter to cabbages to tinned baby<br />

food is on offer. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Koželj B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1251 36 44, vinoteka.dvor@siol.net,<br />

www.kozelj.si. Somewhere in the<br />

region of 85% Slovenian-grown and -produced wine, plus reds,<br />

whites and rosés from around the world. The gregarious chap<br />

who runs the place is an expert and will help you through the<br />

minefield of local plonk. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00<br />

- 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Oliviers&Co B-2, Slovenska 46, tel. (+386) 1232 22<br />

92, www.oliviers-co.com. Fine imported delicacies hard to<br />

find elsewhere in Ljubljana. Only the best mustards, pastas,<br />

pate and sauces from around the world are on sale here. It<br />

smells great and it’s difficult not to spend a fortune. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />

Gifts & Souvenirs<br />

Čokoladnica Cukrček B-3, Mestni Trg 11, tel. (+386)<br />

15 19 92 86, info@benedict.si, www.cukrcek.si. A<br />

charming, family-run business with three shops in the city,<br />

Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making<br />

children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the<br />

many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special<br />

Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in<br />

chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.<br />

Črna Luknja C/D-3, Poljanska 19, tel. (+386) 1280<br />

22 20, info@crnaluknja.si, www.crnaluknja.si. Slovenian<br />

geek heaven. A small shop selling role-playing detritus<br />

of all varieties. Interesting only for those who are already<br />

addicted to this strange little sub-culture, find boxes and<br />

boxes of classic games translated into Slovenian. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 19:30, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Kraševka B-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 123 21<br />

445, info@krasevka.si, www.krasevka.si. ‘Food glorious<br />

food’ goes the song and you may well find yourself humming<br />

it as you scan the shelves of this tasty shop. A family-run<br />

business, Kraševka provides an outlet for local produce<br />

that until recently was only sold directly from the farmer to<br />

the passing food-a-phile. It started off specializing in produce<br />

from the sea but has now expanded to include all manner<br />

of Slovenian delicacies from pumpkin-seed oil to Tiran wines<br />

to jams, cheeses, vinegars and dried meats. Catering to the<br />

inner gourmet lurking in most of us, Kraševka well lives up<br />

to its mission statement of selling ‘home-made foods that<br />

are produced with love’. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00<br />

- 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljanček C-2, Miklošičeva 1, (Grand Hotel Union),<br />

tel. (+386) 59 0 25 727, dusan.orel@amis.net. Attached<br />

to Grand Union Hotel, in Ljubljancek you can take a look<br />

through souvenirs of plates, photos, art and gadgets in relation<br />

to the town of Ljubljana. It is worth stopping by if you’re<br />

looking to buy souvenirs and gifts for your family back home.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00-19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,<br />

14:00-18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />

Made in Slovenia A-3, Slovenska 23, tel. (+386)<br />

51 228 249, info@madeinslovenia.net, www.madeinslovenia.net/.<br />

These guys have been selling exclusively<br />

Slovenian produced goods on the web for over three years<br />

now, but have only recently decided to get into the bricks and<br />

mortar trade. Beyond the usual gifts and souvenirs they also<br />

carry original art work, hand-made jewellery, contemporary<br />

music and of course hemp rolling papers. Their small shop<br />

in the arcade opposite Kongresni Trg was still undergoing<br />

some finishing touches when we visited in late July, but we<br />

liked what we saw.<br />

Piranske Soline B-3, Mestni trg 19, tel. (+386) 1425<br />

01 90, www.soline.si. Times have changed since Roman<br />

soldiers were paid in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of<br />

life’s essentials. Here at Piranske Soline the canvas bags that<br />

fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff. There is<br />

salt for cooking, including the famous Piran salt, hand-scraped<br />

from coastal deposits, along with salted chocolates and a<br />

wide range of salt-related accessories such as salt mills and<br />

containers. And if all the walking you’ve done has made you<br />

a little weary, you can pick up some pick-me-ups in the form<br />

of bath salts and scrubs. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00<br />

- 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />

Rustika C-3, Ljubljanski Grad (Ljubljana Castle)/(+386)<br />

031 38 32 47. Everything from ghastly ceramic dragons to traditional<br />

paintings on glass to wooden spoons to jewellery inside<br />

the castle’s very own little gift shop. They also have a shop in the<br />

center (Stritarjeva 9, B-3) Q Ljubljana castle: daily: 09:00-20:00<br />

(in the winter 10:00-19:00). In the centre: Mo.-Fr.: 09:00-20:00,<br />

Sa.: 10:00-14:00 , 15:00-19:00, Su.: 10:00-14:00<br />

Trgovina Ika C-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1<br />

232 17 43, info@trgovina-ika.si, www.trgovina-ika.si.<br />

RoIka puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion<br />

designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful<br />

selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery<br />

and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot<br />

of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic<br />

forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art,<br />

you’ve come to the right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.<br />

Home<br />

Aqua J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+ 386) 15 85<br />

22 95, info@aquamaritime.si, www.aquamaritime.si.<br />

A difficult place to categorise as their products all share a<br />

maritime theme, but otherwise run the gamut from swimsuits<br />

and sandals to tea pots and cutlery to pencil holders<br />

and handbags. Luckily their website is well-designed (and in<br />

English) so you can check out their entire collection before<br />

visiting. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun<br />

Kids<br />

Baby center J-2, Šmartinska 153, pe2@baby-center.si,<br />

www.babycenter.si. Filled with almost any and all toys and<br />

clothing items your child could ever dream of wanting, if you’re<br />

short on time, you’d think twice before entering this shop. From<br />

a play area in the entry way to an inside corner stuffed with oversized<br />

stuffed animals, this three-level shop will hold the attention<br />

of your younger ones for quite some time, probably much longer<br />

than you’ll want. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

shopping<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


0 shopping<br />

To Je to B-3, Gallusovo Nabrežje 29, tel. (+386) 1425 67<br />

84, ristanc@volja.net, www.tojeto.info. This tiny toyshop<br />

along the river is stocked with old-fashioned wooden toys, games,<br />

and puzzles which probably have little-to-no appeal to most videogame<br />

era children. With not much room to play or look around you’ll<br />

have no trouble clearing the kids out of here in a hurry. QOpen<br />

09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.<br />

Markets<br />

BTC Market J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 14<br />

56. A classic food produce market, modernised and brought<br />

up to date by the large BTC group. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Central Market (Glavna tržnica) C-3, , tel. (+386)<br />

1300 12 00. Food and local produce in a covered space and<br />

an open market square just northeast of the Dragon Bridge.<br />

Flea Market C-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje. Held every<br />

Sunday morning along the riverside on and around Cobbler’s<br />

Bridge, find an extraordinary range of antique goods and brica-brac<br />

from stamps to sofas. Q Open Sun 08:00-14:00.<br />

Photography<br />

Foto Grad C-2, Miklošičeva 36, tel. (+386) 1439 29 00,<br />

www.fotograd.com. A small but decent selection of accessories<br />

plus developing and passport photographs on request.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Foto Maxi A/B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1252<br />

74 50, www.fotomaxi.com. If you can’t wait to get home<br />

to start going through your latest holiday photos, this photo<br />

shop inside the Maxi shopping center, offers fast and efficient<br />

services for digital and manual snappers. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Foto Tivoli B-2, Cankarjeva 7, tel. (+386) 1422 36 30,<br />

www.foto-tivoli.si. One of the better photographic shops in the<br />

city centre selling not only the usual supply of cameras and accessories<br />

but also a wide range of photographic paper and chemicals.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

"Pustite ljubezni<br />

prosto pot!"<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Recorded music<br />

Spin Vinyl Rock’n’Roll Ploščarna B-3, Gallusovo<br />

Nabrežje 13, tel. (+386) 1251 10 18, spinvinyl33@masicom.net,<br />

www.spinvinyl.si. Ljubljana’s cult old town secondhand<br />

record shop not only stocks a magnificent collection of<br />

12-inch oddities including copies of what’s generally considered<br />

to be the first punk album released behind the Iron Curtain (from<br />

the legendary Slovenian outfit, Pankrti) but is also the best place<br />

to stock up on information concerning what’s happening in and<br />

around the alternative music scene in the city. QOpen 10:30<br />

- 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00, Sun 10:30 - 13:00.<br />

Vom Second Hand B-2, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1252<br />

79 21, vom@vom.si, www.vom.si. A tiny shop found down<br />

an equally small alleyway and brimming with a large selection<br />

of mostly but not exclusively second-hand vinyl and CDs.<br />

Music on offer includes classic rock and some gems from<br />

some of the stars of the former Yugoslavia. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Sex shops<br />

Red Shop C-3, Gornji trg 24, tel. (+386) 1425 32<br />

29/(+386) 41 62 46 08, www.redshop.si/. Concentrating<br />

mainly on sex toys of all sorts, this store offers a great variety of<br />

accessories that will help you enrich your sex life. You can visit<br />

the establishment in the old part of town or shop online. Just<br />

don’t expect much help from the clerk, in English or otherwise.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Venera Shop C-2, Trubarjeva 43, tel. (+386) 1432 41 83,<br />

www.venera-shop.si. Ever wondered about going a little crazier<br />

in bed? Well, what are you waiting for? In this sex shop you’ll<br />

find all the little toys your heart might desire. A large selection of<br />

videos, lubricants and all types of things that run on batteries.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Shopping centres<br />

Shopping centres are not hard to find in Ljubljana, but<br />

most of the big department stores and supermarkets are<br />

just out of town and are best found by bus or taxi.<br />

BTC City J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 22 22,<br />

info@btc.si, en.btc-city.com/. The biggest thing of its kind<br />

in the country, the positively humungous BTC features not only<br />

some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine,<br />

but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex<br />

cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball<br />

courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities<br />

and its very own business district housing some of the best<br />

known local and international companies. There’s free parking<br />

for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres<br />

out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

www.cukrcek.si<br />

A rich selection of homemade chocolates,<br />

pralines and chocholate gifts.<br />

Cukrček Chocolate Shop, Pasaža Nebotičnika, Mestni trg 11


2 shopping<br />

Citypark J-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1587 30<br />

50, info@citypark.si, www.citypark.si. Ljubljana’s biggest<br />

shopping centre got a little bit bigger on 26 November, with the<br />

opening of a new wing - bringing its total store count up to 124.<br />

Besides the massive variety of stores (every major high street<br />

brand is here) there is a terrific choice of places to eat: most of<br />

the restaurants here are far better than your shopping mall average.<br />

There’s parking for all, and so big is this place that even on<br />

the busiest of weekends it never feels opressively full. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Mercator <strong>Center</strong> Ljubljana H-1, Cesta Ljubljanske<br />

Brigade 33, tel. (+386) 1513 99 52, info@mercator.si,<br />

www.mercator.si. A huge, modern shopping centre with<br />

plenty of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops<br />

in here plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the<br />

north of the city, 15 minutes from the centre. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Supernova J-3, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 1428 88 83,<br />

info@supernova.si, www.supernova.si. Ljubljana’s newest<br />

shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the city in Rudnik,<br />

and offers plenty of space to leave your car while you go enjoy<br />

spending your hard-earned cash. Check out the all-you-can-eat<br />

sushi place, which is great value for your money. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Sports & Recreation<br />

Intersport B-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1242 77 57,<br />

intersport@mercator.si, www.intersport.si. Everything<br />

you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Marina Yachting B-3, Mestni Trg 25, tel. (+386) 590<br />

38360. Everything, from sou’westers to sweaters, a yachts-<br />

man could need, and a few things he might not. Marina is a<br />

shop for sailors who actually go sailing; this is Slovenia after<br />

all, and the whole country appears to own a boat.<br />

Patrick Sport H-2, Celovška <strong>cesta</strong> <strong>34</strong>, tel. (+386) 1439<br />

10 15, fax (+386) 439 10 10. Whether you are skier, you<br />

love hiking or any of the sport activities that are popular in<br />

Slovenia, you should check out this specialised store. A small<br />

sporting goods store with a wide selection of equipment for<br />

various activities. They concentrate on brands of very high<br />

quality like the Kelme brand of football apparel and Hi-Tech<br />

gear for the outdoorsy types. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Rogo Sport D-2/3, Trubarjeva 76, tel. (+386) 1430<br />

54 10. A small shop at the far western end of the street<br />

providing a limited choice of new bicycles, spare parts and<br />

full service options. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00<br />

- 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Watches<br />

Slo Watch B-3, Čopova 1, tel. (+386) 12 44 31<br />

30/(+386) 31 32 08 11, zlaticasi@slowatch.si, www.<br />

slowatch.si. With eight locations in Ljubljana, most of which<br />

are in the city’s main shopping areas, it’s hard to miss the<br />

crown-adorned logo of the country’s most prolific watch<br />

retailer. At their upmarket flagship store located right on<br />

Prešernov Trg, prospective customers are given first-class<br />

treatment while shopping for brands whose advertisements<br />

regularly line the pages of glossy fashion magazines: Breitling,<br />

Tag Heuer, Longines. For those of us with more earth-bound<br />

budgets, their shops in BTC and Supernova (among others)<br />

offer more modestly-priced timepieces. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


4 boveC<br />

Still on the sunny side of the alps, Bovec is a real green<br />

piece of Europe, a must if you really want to feel sLOVEnia!<br />

Catchy official slogans aside, Slovenia’s supreme summer<br />

and winter sports town really offers a lot. Lying in the<br />

magnificent upper Soča valley in Northwestern Slovenia<br />

- an EU destination of excellence for 2008 - Bovec allows<br />

you to explore all the natural beauties of Triglav National<br />

Park. The town is a great base for summer activity holidays,<br />

hiking and mountain biking on land, paragliding from<br />

the surrounding alpine peaks through the air, or rafting<br />

and kayaking on the truly awesome turquoise waters of<br />

the river Soča. But perhaps the most popular time of year<br />

here is not the warm summer, but the winter ski season.<br />

The lifts to Kanin ski centre sit only half a kilometre from<br />

the centre of Bovec, making it a winter sports Mecca.<br />

That can’t be safe<br />

Arriving by train<br />

Trains are quite tricky. The closest they get to Bovec is<br />

Most na Soči, approximately 40km to the south. From<br />

there you could take a taxi, but bear in mind the distance.<br />

Alternatively you could rent a bike from Tolmin (6km from<br />

Most na Soči) and cycle the rest of the way, if you’re feeling<br />

a little adventurous. By busThere’s a direct bus from<br />

Ljubljana every day (11:15 and 17:50 weekdays, 06:30<br />

and 17:50 at weekends), and there are lots of international<br />

links to and from Ljubljana. By bikeYou could even rent a<br />

bike in Ljubljana (or use your own) and cycle the whole way<br />

(about 120km), if you’re a very keen adventurer or crazy,<br />

or both!<br />

Where to stay<br />

Upmarket<br />

Boka Pension Žaga, 5230 Bovec, tel. (+386) 40 85<br />

65 11, boka@siol.net, www.boka-bovec.si. The word<br />

pension immediately strikes as inappropriate for this brandnew<br />

place, with its upmarket feeling, chic décor, a la carte<br />

restaurant and luxurious suites. It takes its name from the<br />

nearby Boka waterfall, which can be seen from the large<br />

terrace. Notably, there is also free unlimited internet (uncommon<br />

in these parts), an in-house sports/activity centre and<br />

shoe cleaning machines on every floor. Located on the main<br />

road between Kobarid and Bovec. Q Bar/restaurant open<br />

06:00-23:00 Restaurant €5-13.60; doubles €42-60, suites<br />

€59-77. PHAILBKW hhhh<br />

Hotel Alp Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 40, tel. (+386) 53 88<br />

40 00, info@hotel-alp.si, www.alp-hotel.si. This comfortable<br />

and rather large hotel, has everything you would expect:<br />

a bar and restaurant, a large conference room, TVs and minibars<br />

in the rooms and sun terrace. It also has some things<br />

you wouldn’t: a mini-sauna village in relaxing surroundings<br />

(half price for guests at only €5 weekdays), massage, manicure<br />

and pedicure services and use of a nearby swimming<br />

pool at Hotel Kanin. It is located on the main square, right<br />

in the centre of Bovec. Q From €30 per person if booked in<br />

advance. PJHAULBKDC hhh<br />

Hotel Kanin Ledina 6, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 89 68<br />

80, hotel.kanin@siol.net, www.hotel-kanin.com. The<br />

hotel shares its name with the local ski resort, just 1.5km<br />

away, reflecting a major source of its winter clientele. It is well<br />

established, and one of the finest hotels in Bovec - the other<br />

being Hotel Alp. Although the lobby looks a little dated, the<br />

rooms are recently renovated, and look very modern (no old<br />

tricks of only renovating the lobby here!). The view from the<br />

balcony makes the hair on your neck stand on end, as does<br />

the view from the heated pool and sauna/wellness centre. Q<br />

€49 per person. PJHALBKDC hhh<br />

Pristava Lepena Lepena 2, Soča, tel. (+386) 53 88<br />

99 00/(+386) 41 67 19 81, pristava.lepena@siol.net,<br />

www.pristava-lepena.com. This place is special. On arrival<br />

you are greeted by the famous Lipice horses and friendly<br />

mountain goats. Run as a hotel and horse-riding centre and<br />

taking the form of a typical alpine village, you can find pretty<br />

much everything in this perfect blend of modern and traditional.<br />

There’s even a sauna, fitness room and conference<br />

room within the beautiful log cabins, all amid the spectacular<br />

mountainous scenery. Located 9km from Bovec. Q €50-69<br />

per person. HAIFLBKDCW hhhh<br />

Mid-range<br />

Motel Encijan Log pod Mangartom 31, tel. +386 53<br />

84 51 30, anton.trstenjak@amis.net, www.encijan.<br />

com. Tired of civilisation? Then get away to the heart of<br />

Triglav National Park, near one of the highest peaks, Mangart<br />

(2678m), 11km north-west from Bovec. There you can go<br />

hiking, mountaineering, paragliding or mountain biking, all<br />

arranged by this sport/recreation resort. We especially like<br />

the location of this one for winter adventure holidays, being<br />

only 10-30minutes, by car, from no less than 3 ski centres<br />

in 3 different countries: Kanin, Slovenia, Arnoldstain, Austria,<br />

and Sella Nevea, Italy! Summer water-sports also available.<br />

Q €30 per person. THALBKDC<br />

Tourist information<br />

TIC Bovec Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 8, tel. + 386<br />

53 89 64 44/+386 (0)31 388 700, fax +386 53<br />

89 64 45, info@bovec.si, bovec.si/eng/. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 17;00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00-14:30-17:00.<br />

ponedeljek - petek: 9.00 - 17.00, sobota, nedelja: 9.00<br />

- 14.00 in 14.30 - 17.00.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

<br />

Tourist Information <strong>Center</strong> Bovec<br />

Trg golobarskih žrtev 22, 23<br />

SI -5230 Bovec<br />

T: +386 (0)5 3896 444<br />

M: +386 (0)31 388 700<br />

E: info@bovec.si<br />

www.bovec.si<br />

WINTER IN THE VALLEYS OF INSPIRATION<br />

boveC<br />

<br />

Skiing on KANIN- SELLA NEVEA, the highest ski resort in<br />

Slovenia (OPENING 23th December 2009)<br />

Snowshoeing, dog sledding, sledding, ski school,<br />

freeride skiing, freeride skiing guide service,<br />

cross-country skiing, ice climbing, ski touring,<br />

paragliding and hiking in the wild and miraculous<br />

nature of Triglav National Park<br />

Relaxation and recreation in the indoor swimming<br />

pool and rejuvenating in the wellness centres<br />

Sightseeing: Triglav National Park, Soča river, Great<br />

Soča Gorge, Boka waterfall, Prestreljenik Window, Kluže<br />

Fortress, Trenta museum, Ravelnik museum<br />

Exploring unique taste of Bovec culinary delicacies:<br />

»Buški kra«, »Bovec cheese« and »Čompe an skuta«<br />

Events: 29th and 30th December 2009 3. BOFF (Bovec<br />

Outdoor Film Festival and Snow Sculptures), 31th<br />

December New Year Celebration, 1th January 2010<br />

Traditional New Year's Walk to Lemovje<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


oveC ski boveC & spA<br />

Guest Houses<br />

Gostišče Vančar Čezsoča 43, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 89 60<br />

76, info@penzionvancar.com, www.penzionvancar.com. This<br />

traditional but newly built guest house is modern and impressive,<br />

yet authentic alpine. It offers rooms, a restaurant and sports/adventure<br />

activities, such as rafting, canyoning and paragliding. The<br />

location is magnificent, sitting near the beautiful Soča River in a<br />

small village just 2km from Bovec. The food and drink is a blend of<br />

local and international: from trout, home-made ham and schnapps<br />

to pizza, schnitzel and Jack Daniels. For the kids they even have a<br />

‘natural swimming pool’ outside. Q Restaurant: €4-9, Rooms:<br />

€22 per person. PTA6ULBKC<br />

Apartments<br />

Apartments Kaninska Vas Kaninska Vas 7, tel. (+386)<br />

53 89 63 33, tusi@siol.net, www.kaninska-vas.si. Most of<br />

this big range of alpine apartments are 3-star. They have lots of<br />

space in the centre, and a large flagship complex in Kaninska<br />

Vas, overlooking Bovec and nestled into the mountainside. The<br />

location of this one is especially good for mountain bikers, with<br />

the Kanin MTB Park being only a few minutes away. All the usual<br />

sporting activities are of course available, from rafting to tandem<br />

paragliding. Check out the special prices from September<br />

- December. Q Studio from €75 for two nights, up to €179 for 6<br />

person apartment. JALBW<br />

Bovška Hiša Kot 2, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 88 60 32,<br />

tment@bovec-sc.si, www.bovec-sc-si. Sharing the same<br />

owner as Bovec Šport <strong>Center</strong>, this place is a pair of bright<br />

and airy alpine apartments, cutely named Luka and Jakob.<br />

These guys, Luka and Jakob that is, sit in the old centre of<br />

town enjoying the copious nearby amenities: supermarket,<br />

newsagents, souvenir shop, bank, childrens playground and<br />

quite a few restaurants. The apartments have lots of personality,<br />

including cheeky kitchens, curious cable TV and amiable<br />

internet connections. Definitely worth asking for some kind<br />

of discount on sports activities if you’re staying here. Q €15<br />

per person, sleeps 2-4 people. JW<br />

Gotour Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 50, Bovec, tel. (+386) 05 38<br />

96 36 6/(+386) 04 02 26 93 8, www.gotourbovec.com,<br />

gotour.bovec@siol.net. The primary occupation of this agency<br />

is to rent apartments. They have seven in total, all within the<br />

same block, smack in the central square, and all self-contained<br />

(with kitchens, bathrooms, etc). All the delights of the surrounding<br />

countryside are within easy reach, especially water-sports,<br />

mountain bike rental and sledging at Mangart (nearby mountain),<br />

which you can arrange in the same building.<br />

Mrakič Apartments Dvor 53, Bovec, tel. (+386) 41<br />

32 91 74, apartmaji.mrakic@siol.net, www.mrakic.<br />

net. You’re spoilt for choice here for apartments, they are<br />

available just 300m from the Kanin ski lifts and also in<br />

the centre of Bovec, still less than a kilometre from the<br />

The pristine Julian Alps S. Plestenjak<br />

entrance to Kanin. They are very well equipped, with fullyfitted<br />

kitchens, and even dishwashers. Guests can expect<br />

a discount on sports activities and equipment rental, and<br />

there are also equipment storage facilities. Q 6 apartments<br />

€50-130, 30% more for stays of less than 3 nights.<br />

PJALW<br />

Where to eat<br />

Cafés<br />

Kavarna 1920 Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 40. This is one<br />

of the few places in Bovec with public internet access (also<br />

Hotel Alp). We like the simplicity of this coffee shop; it does<br />

exactly what it should: serves good fresh coffee, organic tea,<br />

cold drinks, snacks and ice cream. It has a modern lounge<br />

inside, quaint terrace and inviting tables and chairs on the<br />

main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. . PJNBW<br />

Restaurants<br />

Gostilna Sovdat Trg Golobarskih Zrtev. If you want<br />

good hearty Slovenian and European food you don’t have<br />

to walk far. Sovdat - just within view of the main square in<br />

Bovec - is a typical Slovenian restaurant, simple and friendly. If<br />

you can forgive the decoration outside (fake flowers and<br />

seaweed green cushions), the garden is a pleasant environment<br />

with a great mountain view. Fish, Wiener schnitzel<br />

and a variety of local dishes are all served here in big portions.<br />

QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Thu. (€4.80-16).<br />

JAB<br />

Letni Vrt Trg Golobarskih Zrtev. As you might expect from<br />

a restaurant called ‘seasonal garden’, there’s an abundance<br />

of outdoor space. The often busy terrace is covered and<br />

you’re seated on benches at long wooden tables for that authentic<br />

alpine feeling. The good news is that it sits on Bovec’s<br />

main square, opposite Hotel Alp. The menu has a wide choice:<br />

hot and cold starters, pizza, fish, lamb, steak, pasta dishes<br />

and even game meat, as well as dessert. Be aware, as in<br />

most restaurants in these parts the bill always includes a<br />

compulsory table charge (€0.50-1) for bread/napkins and<br />

an extra charge for side dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />

12:00 - 22:00. (€6-21). PJAB<br />

Nightlife<br />

B&R Bar Mala Vas 16. This venue masquerades both<br />

as a bona fide wine cellar (‘Berce’) and popular local pub.<br />

With the former you can sample many varieties of homeproduced<br />

Slovenian wine - with the latter you can drink<br />

beer whilst shouting at the day’s live sporting event on<br />

the big screen outside. Ice cream is on sale at half time, or<br />

whenever you feel like it. Situated a five minute walk from<br />

the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />

PJNB<br />

Sports Agencies<br />

Bovec Šport Centre Kot 2, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 88<br />

60 32/(+386) 31 62 87 94, info@bovec-sc.si, www.<br />

bovec-sc.si. We like the open and quite spiritual director of<br />

this activity centre. He and his guides aim to offer a deeper<br />

connection and experience than that of the usual host/client<br />

relationship. A good choice for the inexperienced (and/or<br />

terrified), they have just introduced an easier-to-control<br />

inflatable kayak to the Soča. They tell us you can become at<br />

one with nature, both on water and on land. Rafting, kayaking,<br />

canyoning, hydrospeed, hiking, mountainbiking, caving and<br />

winter packages are all available. An office is also located in<br />

Boka Pension, between Kobarid and Bovec.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Pohorje mountain near Maribor<br />

Slovenia is known for specialist tourism; one of the most<br />

special reasons being the abundance of wellness and spa<br />

centres across the country. The perfect time to visit a spa<br />

happens to be when the temperatures are below freezing,<br />

which is also the season for hitting the slopes. Slovenia is<br />

equally well served with small to medium sized ski resorts,<br />

making it a great destination for romantic couples or<br />

adventure-seeking families.<br />

Ski Resorts<br />

Igloo Village Krvavec Krvavec, Gorenjska, tel. (+386) 13<br />

00 38 45, info@koren-sports.si, www.eskimska-vas.si. If the<br />

fabulously expensive ‘ice hotel’ in Sweden is a bit beyond your<br />

budget, no fear - there’s an equally frosty reception at Slovenia’s<br />

very own igloo village. After dinner in the igloo restaurant and a<br />

session with your eski-mates down at the ice bar, you have the<br />

option of accommodation: a classic or romantic igloo. Snowshoeing,<br />

snowbiking and skiing are the main activities available at the<br />

mountainside location, but just the fact that you’re staying in an<br />

igloo should be exciting enough. Expect a party atmosphere in<br />

and around the village, open from December until the end of<br />

March. Good for events and special occasions. Situated just a<br />

few kilometres from Joše Pučnik airport (Brnik), or a 45 minute<br />

drive from Ljubljana - northbound along the A2 motorway, following<br />

signs for ‘Krvavec Ski <strong>Center</strong>’. Q Prices are €89/person for<br />

accommodation (which includes night snowshoeing, a welcome<br />

cocktail, dinner in Igloo Restaurant, party with DJ in the Ice Bar,<br />

sleeping in a standard igloo, usage of special expedition sleeping<br />

bags and breakfast), €45 (without accommodation) and €250<br />

for two people (Romantic igloo + champagne). P<br />

Tourist information<br />

TIC Kamnik Glavni trg 2, tel. + 386 18 31 82 50,<br />

tic@kamnik-tourism.si, www.kamnik-tourism.si.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.<br />

PICK UP FROM ALL HOTELS: 15.30<br />

ADVANCED BOOKINGS REQUIRED<br />

so call us: +386 31 362 368<br />

www.eskimska-vas.si<br />

info@koren-sports.si<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Kanin Dvor 43, Bovec, www.boveckanin.si. Perched<br />

high above Bovec, Kanin is Slovenia’s only high altitude<br />

(over 2000m) ski centre and boasts the country’s longest<br />

“winter” season, actually running all the way from November<br />

until well into spring and the May national holidays.<br />

Previously a medium sized resort with 15km of ski runs,<br />

this year Kanin is joined with a new lift to the Sella Nevea<br />

ski centre across the border in Italy, to make it Slovenia’s<br />

only transnational resort. With a good range of slopes<br />

it will appeal to everyone from complete beginners to<br />

advanced skiers and boarders. If that’s not enough for<br />

you, guests with a six-day Kanin pass can also ski in a<br />

third country for two days, at the Arnoldstein centre in<br />

Austria. There are off piste opportunities at Kanin, but we<br />

wouldn’t recommend this without an experienced guide.<br />

From Ljubljana, head west on the A1 towards Koper, then<br />

leave the motorway for Tolmin (30km), once there follow<br />

Kobarid and then Bovec/Kanin. Total travel time: 1 hour<br />

50 minutes.From Ljubljana, head west on the A1 towards<br />

Koper, then leave the motorway for Tolmin (30km), once<br />

there follow Kobarid and then Bovec/Kanin. Total travel<br />

time: 1 hour 50 minutes. Q One day ski pass: €24 adults,<br />

€21 seniors/youths, €15 kids.<br />

Kobla Ski <strong>Center</strong> Cesta na Ravne 7, tel. (+386) 45<br />

74 71 00, kobla@volja.net, www.bohinj.si/kobla. A<br />

relatively compact resort, with 3 double chair-lifts and<br />

about 5 ski runs (with the longest being 6km), Kobla is<br />

aimed primarily at families and amateur/intermediate skiers.<br />

Unsurprisingly then, their emblem is a cartoon bear<br />

rather haphazardly skiing down one of their slopes. On a<br />

more practical level, Kobla is the only Slovenian ski centre<br />

accessible by train. Presumably this means it’s still open<br />

when the snow is too deep to drive. You can also still go<br />

in mild conditions, courtesy of their snow-maker, which<br />

is unusual for the area. Cable-cars leave from Bohinjska<br />

Bistrica.By car Bohinjska Bistrica is 1hour 10 minutes<br />

from Ljubljana. Follow the signposts from Bled, which is<br />

close to the A2 motorway.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


ski & spA<br />

<strong>Kranj</strong>ska Gora <strong>Kranj</strong>ska Gora, tel. +386 45 80 94 40,<br />

info@kranjska-gora.eu, http://www.kranjska-gora.<br />

si/Activities/Skiing. Considered the premier ski resort in<br />

Slovenia, <strong>Kranj</strong>ska Gora (800-1210m) is a favourite haunt for<br />

rich Slovenes, Croatians and ‘western Europeans’ alike. You<br />

won’t find the most challenging runs here, but it is excellent<br />

for beginners and intermediate skiers. If you need more speed<br />

to get the adrenaline pumping, the World Cup slope in nearby<br />

Podkoren is sure to do the trick. Cross-country skiers can take<br />

advantage of a beautiful trail, made where the train tracks<br />

used to lie, at the bottom of the valley. The slopes are spread<br />

along the Vitranc mountain ridge from <strong>Kranj</strong>ska Gora all the<br />

way to Planica, and are served by 6 chairlifts and 12 drag lifts.<br />

In the far north west of Slovenia, take the A2 from Ljubljana<br />

then go left at Jesenice, 1hour 20 minutes by car.<br />

Krvavec Grad 76, Cerklje na Gorenjskem, tel. (+386)<br />

42 52 59 30, info@rtc-krvavec.si, www.rtc-krvavec.<br />

si. Voted the best Slovene ski resort the last three years<br />

running, its huge popularity (capacity: 13,700 skiers/hour)<br />

is partly by virtue ofits proximity to Ljubljana, just 45 minutes<br />

by car. Of course the views are spectacular (1450-1971m),<br />

and the piste breathtaking, literally with 23km of medium<br />

to demanding slopes. For beginners and families there’s a<br />

ski school, large equipment rental facility and 7km of easy<br />

slopes. For everyone, there are lots of accommodation options<br />

available on the mountain (book early) - and 100 days<br />

of guaranteed skiing per year (90% artificial snow coverage).<br />

Slovenia’s flagship ski destination. Head northbound on the<br />

A2 from Ljubljana, once out in the countryside it’s signposted<br />

from the motorway, near <strong>Kranj</strong>. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Prices<br />

for 1 day lift pass: €28 adults, €24 students/seniors/youths,<br />

€16 kids. Rentals from €15 per day for standard equipment.<br />

Other packages are available.<br />

Maribor Pohorje Mladinska ulica 29, tel. (+386) 26<br />

03 65 57, info.vzp@sk-branik.si, www.pohorje.org.<br />

Pohorje, the biggest ski centre in Slovenia, entertains everyone<br />

from beginners to advanced skiers and boarders.<br />

With 41.5 km of varied and well-kept piste, it’s non-stop<br />

fun for friends and families alike. The customary ski/board<br />

school will launch you up to the more challenging runs soon<br />

enough, but if it’s exercise and scenery you’re after, there<br />

are 27km of cross country trails. We love the location,<br />

right beside Slovenia’s second city, Maribor; explaining<br />

why it attracts so many Austrians and Croatians every<br />

year. It’s a relatively rare urban and ski experience in one.<br />

Pohorje is accessed by way of 5 chairlifts, 16 ski-lifts and<br />

a gondola, the latter even being reachable by Maribor city<br />

bus.If you happen to have a car, Maribor is one and a half<br />

hours east from Ljubljana on the A1 motorway. Otherwise<br />

take a train then catch a city bus.<br />

Planica Rateče, tel. (+386) 15 13 68 06, info@<br />

planica.info, www.planica.si. Home to the annual FIS<br />

ski flying world cup event, the backdrop of the Planica<br />

valley is magnificent. Awesome rugged peaks tower all<br />

around; formed by the Planica glacier some 20,000 years<br />

ago. The jump itself comprises a fearsomely large and<br />

heart stoppingly steep slope, stuff only for professional<br />

ski fliers, or the clinically insane. The current world record<br />

(239m) is held by one of the former, Norwegian Bjørn Einar<br />

Romøren, and was contested by a Finn, Janne Ahonen,<br />

whose 240m flight ended with a fall - 2005 was apparently<br />

a great year for breaking records here. Every year Planica<br />

is prepared for the onslaught of thousands spectators<br />

in March. Being amongst 2000m+ alpine peaks, it is<br />

the only kind of setting worthy of such an internationally<br />

prestigious ski event.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

GREEN WORLD<br />

cradeled by Kamnik Alps<br />

www.velikaplanina.si<br />

Velika Planina Kamniška Bistrica 2, Stahovica, tel. +386<br />

18 32 72 58/+386 18 31 29 81, info@velikaplanina.si,<br />

www.velikaplanina.si. A cable car near Kamnik carries you<br />

up to this vast mountain plateau. Perched on the open alpine<br />

plains is a herdsmen’s settlement, with its quirky architecture,<br />

simple way of life, and traditionally made dairy products. If the<br />

mysterious spirit of the place is lost on the kids, at least they’ll<br />

have a great time on the snowy playground, ski-lift Jurček or the<br />

free kindergarten here every weekend (11:00-13:00). In terms<br />

of skiing, Velika Planina is perfect for families and beginners, to<br />

intermediate skiers interested in a cultural experience. 6km of<br />

slopes (mostly medium difficulty) are served by 6 ski lifts and<br />

rise from 1412-1666m. Winter at Velika Planina holds plenty of<br />

other opportunities to be active on the snow: sledging, walking,<br />

hiking, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. If you’re here over<br />

the holidays, there’s a very popular midnight church service on<br />

Christmas eve. To get there, head north-east from Ljubljana towards<br />

Mengeš and Kamnik, then continue north through Kamnik<br />

following signs for Kamniška Bistrica and Velika Planina.<br />

Spa & Wellness<br />

Terme Čatež Topliška 35, Čatež ob Savi, tel. (+386) 74<br />

93 50 00, fax (+386) 74 93 50 05, info@terme-catez.<br />

si, www.terme-catez.si. Located in Southeastern Slovenia<br />

near the town of Brežice - which is one of the country’s major<br />

centres of wine production - Terme Čatež is a well-known<br />

wellness, business and recreational centre, featuring one of<br />

the Slovenia’s most impressive water parks, which includes<br />

the largest indoor thermal pool with over 2300m² of surface<br />

area. In December they also open a large ice skating rink,<br />

accompanied of course by stands selling mulled wine, hot<br />

chocolate and other sweets, as well as music. Many special<br />

holiday packages are available over the Christmas and New<br />

Year period, with significant family discounts - check their site<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

INFO CENTER OPENED<br />

Mon - Sat. : 10.a.m. - 6 p.m.<br />

Sun: 10. a.m. - 2 p.m.<br />

Phone: +386 1 831-82-50<br />

tic@kamnik-tourism.si<br />

ski & spA<br />

www.terme-snovik.si<br />

www.kamnik-tourism.si<br />

for the most up-to-date offers. Q Daily tickets for the Winter<br />

Thermal Riviera are €12/15 for children/adults with discounts<br />

available depending on the time and day. Accommodation at<br />

one of the complex’s three hotels or 400 apartments ranges<br />

from €57 - 100 per night.<br />

Terme Snovik Snovik 7, Laze v Tuhinju, tel. (+386) 18<br />

<strong>34</strong> 41 00, fax (+386) 18 <strong>34</strong> 41 36, info@terme-snovik.si,<br />

www.terme-snovik.si. Tucked into the Kamniško-Savinjske<br />

Alps not far from the ever-popular Velika Planina and Krvavec ski<br />

resorts, Terme Snovik boasts one of the most scenic locations<br />

of any spa and wellness centre in the country, and is only a short<br />

drive north from Ljubljana. Their indoor thermal pool is open yearround,<br />

and the natural healing powers of its magnesium and<br />

calcium rich water has been officially recognised by the Slovenian<br />

Ministry of Health. During the winter you’re apt to find a pick-up<br />

hockey game taking place on their natural ice rink, and for more<br />

adventurous visitors hikes of varying degrees of difficulty and<br />

lengths can be arranged in the surrounding countryside.<br />

Terme SPA Rogaška Zdraviliški Trg 12, Rogaška<br />

Slatina, tel. (+386) 38 11 20 00, fax (+386) 38 11<br />

20 12, marketing@terme-rogaska.si, www.termerogaska.si.<br />

You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more opulent<br />

place to rest your head anywhere in the country than at<br />

the Grand Hotel Rogaška - the main attraction of this 400<br />

year old thermal spa and resort. Although the interior has<br />

been extensively renovated since it was frequented by<br />

such Habsburg era notables as Emperor Ferdinand and<br />

the composer Franz Liszt, it’s obvious that no expense<br />

was spared in maintaining the original appearance. And<br />

of course it wouldn’t be a spa without a square kilometre<br />

of invigorating mineral water pools spread about its immaculately<br />

kept grounds. It’s located about 40km east of Celje, just<br />

off route 107. PTARUFLEGBKDCW<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


0 highLights oF the CoAst highLights oF oF the the CoAst<br />

With only 46 kilometres of Adriatic coast to call their own,<br />

Slovenes have to make the most of every centimetre.<br />

The result is a coastline dotted with half a dozen or so<br />

notable towns, each with its own unique character, charms<br />

and quirks. From tiny Ankaran near the Italian border to<br />

the poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, near the<br />

Sečovlje Salt pans that separate Slovenia from Croatia<br />

- with picturesque Piran, the sleepy fishing village of Izola<br />

and the municipal centre and port town of Koper in between<br />

- the coast is a diverse destination for visitors and<br />

only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana. As an added bonus it<br />

also enjoys relatively mild winters compared with the rest<br />

of the country.<br />

Picturesque Piran<br />

Ankaran<br />

Villa Andor Vinogradniška Pot 9, tel. (+386) 56 15<br />

50 00/(+386) 41 65 51 00, fax (+386) 56 15 50 17,<br />

villa@andor.si, www.andor.si. Housed in a beautifully<br />

preserved centuries-old Venetian-style villa, Andor enjoys<br />

protected historic status as it had previously served as both<br />

a private and official state residence before being opened<br />

as a hotel in the mid-90s. Its 14 double rooms all come with<br />

antique furnishings as well as modern amenities, and most<br />

have at least partial sea views. Try to request room four (the<br />

Honeymoon suite), which has French doors opening onto a<br />

large private balcony. Q 14 rooms (singles €40-45, doubles<br />

€80-90). POA6ILBKX<br />

Andor Vinogradniška Pot 9, tel. (+386) 56 15 50<br />

00/(+386) 41 65 51 00, villa@andor.si, www.andor.<br />

si. Located in the hotel of the same name, the restaurant<br />

focuses on promoting regional Mediterranean-Istrian cuisine<br />

and local delicacies with its multi-course slow food menus<br />

prepared daily by their renowned head chef, Tomaž Bevčič.<br />

Along with a specially-selected wine to compliment each dish,<br />

it’s a great way to spend three or more hours on a weekend<br />

visit to the coast. During the warmer months you can dine<br />

on a large stone terrace with views across the Gulf of Koper,<br />

while the kids entertain themselves at the nearby playground.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />

Izola<br />

Gostilna Korte Korte 44, tel. (+386) 5642 02<br />

00/(+386) 41 60 78 63, gostilnakorte@siol.net, www.<br />

gostilnakorte.si/. Locals and tourists alike make regular<br />

pilgrimages up into the hills between Izola and Portorož to dine<br />

at this traditional inn. The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediterranean<br />

and regional Istrian dishes, and a great selection of<br />

local wines - a bottle of which should be mandatory with any<br />

meal. It’s also not a bad place to come for a drink if you need<br />

an excuse to get out and enjoy the fresh air, but are not in the<br />

mood to eat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.<br />

Wine Bar Manzioli J-6, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. (+386)<br />

5616 21 37, matej.zaro@siol.net. Operated by the Zaro<br />

family, who have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar<br />

occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s<br />

most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots on the<br />

entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample<br />

quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday afternoon<br />

you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the<br />

church opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. JAB<br />

Piran<br />

Max Korpusa 26, tel. (+386) 5673 <strong>34</strong> 76/(+386) 41 69<br />

29 28, www.maxpiran.com. Up the hill from Tartini Square, this<br />

small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300 year old house<br />

and is one of our favourite places to stay on the coast, although<br />

if you’re a light sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next<br />

door may prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently<br />

sole employee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool supporter<br />

who’ll be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs<br />

or talk your ear off over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that<br />

he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta. Q<br />

6 rooms (doubles €60-70). PJA hhh<br />

Restaurant<br />

specialized in traditional<br />

Istrian dishes<br />

Boutique Hotel<br />

Gambling Saloon Casinò<br />

Villa ANDOR<br />

the place to indulge your senses.<br />

Vinogradniška pot 9, Ankaran, Slovenia<br />

tel. +386 5 6155 000 www.andor.si<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Tartini Café A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 5 673 33 81.<br />

In a town were the famous composer unwittingly lends his name<br />

to just about everything, we’re not exactly sure how this became<br />

the Tartini café but we assume it wasn’t an easy feat. In any event,<br />

housed in a beautiful building that was once the old town Loggia in<br />

the north corner of Tartini Square, it’s definitely worthy of the name<br />

- although it’s pastel furniture and futuristic egg shell chairs do<br />

seem a bit out of place. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB<br />

Tartini Square (Tartinijev Trg) A-1, . Already arguably the<br />

most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put to rest<br />

last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian only zone<br />

with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars - a fact that<br />

has yet to be reflected on most internet sites, including Google<br />

Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance buildings on one<br />

side and a mélange of smaller buildings of varying architectural<br />

styles on the other, the square itself is younger than almost all<br />

of them, having been part of Piran’s harbour until it was filled in<br />

in 1884. The square’s inner oval was given its distinctive shape<br />

when it served as the terminus for an electric railway that connected<br />

Piran to Portorož and Lucija until 1953.<br />

Portorož<br />

Kempinski Palace Portorož D-3, Obala 45, tel. (+386)<br />

5692 70 00, www.kempinski-portoroz.com. This grandest of<br />

residences dominates Obala Street and the entire Piran Bay with<br />

its majestic architecture and refined gardens. All the comforts of<br />

a 5 star hotel can be found at the Palace, and at a reasonable<br />

price for the quality. When you want to escape for a moment of<br />

peace, the tranquil gardens at the rear of the hotel offer are a<br />

shady retreat rom the busy Obala entrance. Q 164 rooms, 17<br />

suites (singles €235-310, doubles €285-360, suites €900-2150).<br />

PTJHAUILEBKXCW hhhhh<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Marita E-4, Obala 89, tel. (+386) 5617 22 00, fax<br />

(+386) 5617 22 17, info@hotel-marita.si, www.hotelmarita.si.<br />

From the outside, Marita’s glassy and bland-coloured<br />

appearance does not do her much justice. However,<br />

the greenery of her gardens and large swimming pools are<br />

a delight. Marita is situated just on the edge of town and<br />

very close to Lucija (Portoroz’s neighbouring town), which<br />

provides a calmer alternative to the crowded restaurants and<br />

beaches along Obala. Q 83 rooms (singles €150, doubles<br />

€190, suite €200-250). PTAULGBKXCW<br />

hhhh<br />

Paprika E-4, Obala 20a, tel. (+386) 5651 41 02, info@<br />

paprika.si, www.paprika.si. A cafe during the day, the<br />

uber-modern interior only hints at the debaucherous disco<br />

scene that the place transforms into during the evening with<br />

themed nights ranging from latin to house music. The nights<br />

are replete with scantily clad go-godancers and a rotating<br />

roster of local and travelling DJs. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00.<br />

Admission free. PAULEGBXW<br />

Sečovlje Saline Nature Park , tel. (+386) 5672 13<br />

30, kpss@soline.si, www.kpss.si. Hundreds of years<br />

ago, salt wasa commodity almost as valuable as gold and<br />

rulers fought to acquire and controlits means of collection.<br />

Sečovlje was one such rarified area and today it is preserved<br />

as a park with a visitors’ center and museum. A fascinating<br />

piece of history, the salt pans are not only an interesting<br />

public park, they are also awell-preserved natural habitat for<br />

all kinds of wildlife. The trek out to thepans is an interesting<br />

one but make sure to pack your insect repellant, not all of<br />

the inhabitants here are friendly. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />

Admission: €3 adults; €2 students, seniors; free for children<br />

under age six.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

1


2 wine tAsting<br />

As would be expected from a country which borrows the<br />

lyrics for its national anthem from a poem entitled The<br />

Toast, winemaking and viticulture hold a special place in<br />

the hearts and minds of most Slovenes. With hundreds of<br />

individual vineyards - most of which are small to mediumsized<br />

family run affairs - spread across several different<br />

wine-growing regions, choosing where to visit during a<br />

short stay can be a daunting task. We’ve tried to include a<br />

wide range of options below, but as you can see, our slight<br />

bias towards and geographic proximity to the west of the<br />

country has left those regions (especially Goriška Brda)<br />

more well-represented than their counterparts in the east.<br />

But when it comes to tasting wine and visiting vineyards,<br />

in Slovenia you can’t really go wrong.<br />

Western Slovenia<br />

Brda Tel. (+386) 53 95 95 94, info@obcina-brda.si,<br />

www.brda.si/en. Occupying 72km² of rolling hills between<br />

the Soča River and Italian border, Brda is one of Slovenia’s<br />

foremost wine-growing areas and only an hour’s drive from<br />

Ljubljana. Often described as a miniature version of Tuscany,<br />

every hill seems to be topped with a large church (there are<br />

actually only 30 in all) surrounded by a charming little village,<br />

while the hillsides and valleys in between are blanketed with<br />

vineyards, orchards and winding country roads. Aside from a<br />

few larger estates and one cooperative, most of the vineyards<br />

are smaller family-run operations, and almost all offer some<br />

combination of wine tastings, tours, meals, accommodation<br />

and of course wine sales. The region is also known for its<br />

traditional Italian-influenced cuisine, and a trip to Brda without<br />

enjoying a slow multi-course meal on a terrace overlooking<br />

the vineyards almost defeats the entire purpose. The tourist<br />

information office at Dobrovo Castle is well-stocked with<br />

multi-lingual maps, brochures and other literature, and a great<br />

place to start for first-time visitors.<br />

Cantina Simčič Ceglo 3b, Dobrovo, tel. (+386) 53 95<br />

92 00, fax (+386) 53 95 92 01, info@simcic.si, www.<br />

simcic.si. Marjan and Salko Simčič operate one of the most<br />

widely known and respected vineyards not only in Brda or<br />

Slovenia, but the entire region. Their estate covers 16 hectares<br />

with roughly half on either side of the Slovene-Italian<br />

border. The family has been producing wine commercially<br />

since 1860 and currently turn out 80,000 bottles per year,<br />

which are exported around the world. Tastings can be arranged<br />

for groups as large as 30 people, but advance booking<br />

is a must. QClosed Sun.<br />

Erzetič Višnjevik 25A, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386) 53<br />

95 94 60/(+386) 41 64 31 14, erzetic.visnjevik@volja.<br />

net, www.vina-erzetic.com. Located in the unassuming<br />

village of Višnjevik, the Erzetič winery offers one of the more<br />

Stirring the amphora at Erzetic<br />

unique wine tasting experiences in the Brda region. Dating<br />

back to 1725, the family-run estate produces up to 80,000<br />

bottles per year - several varieties of which have been decorated<br />

at internnational competitions, including the prestigious<br />

Decanter World Wine Awards. They’re also one of only two<br />

wineries in Slovenia to produce wine using large ceramic vases<br />

called amphoras - which were specially-built in in Georgia and<br />

give the wine a very distinctive earthy flavour.<br />

Klinec Homestead Medana 20, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel.<br />

(+386) 53 95 94 08/(+386) 31 33 94 63, nejkak@yahoo.com,<br />

klinec.si. More than just a winery or tourist farm,<br />

the Klinec homestead is a truly one of a kind place. The small<br />

family-run operation produces a range of exquisite organic<br />

wines and serves an array of mouth-watering seasonal dishes<br />

following traditional recipes and cooking methods of the Brda<br />

region. They also play a central role in Medana’s thriving arts<br />

scene, hosting well-known painters and sculptors for a weeklong<br />

festival every October, as well as various jazz concerts,<br />

film viewings and poetry readings throughout the year. Q<br />

Open Fri 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, Sun<br />

12:00-16:00 and Mon-Thu by arrangement.<br />

Poljšak Gradišče pri Vipavi 39A, Vipava, tel. (+386) 53<br />

66 53 59/(+386) 41 44 10 01, samo.poljsak@volja.<br />

net, users.volja.net/spoljs. The award-winning Poljšak<br />

family winery occupies a four-hectare estate in the sunny<br />

and wind-swept Vipava Valley, a region especially known for<br />

its prized Zelen wines. The ancient, autochthonous grape<br />

variety of the same name is native to the valley, and production<br />

runs are kept small and strictly controlled in order to<br />

guarantee the highest quality. Situated just off the motorway<br />

between Postojna and Nova Gorica, Vipava is only a half<br />

hour drive from Ljubljana and can be easily combined with<br />

surrounding sights.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Simčič (Karol & Igor & Marijan) Hum 8, Kojsko, tel.<br />

(+386) 53 04 65 26, fax (+386) 53 04 65 27, info@vinosimcic.si,<br />

www.vinosimcic.si. First appearing in the local<br />

land registry back in the 19th century and covering some 32<br />

hectares of terraced vineyards today, Vrhunska Vina Simčič is<br />

one of the oldest and largest wineries in Brda. They produce<br />

a wide variety of white and red wines including Rebula, Pinot<br />

Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon among the<br />

former and Merlot, Chabernet Sauvignon and Refošk (the<br />

so-called King of Reds) among the latter. Tours and tastings<br />

are available for both individuals and larger groups, but it’s<br />

always best to call at least a few days in advance to make<br />

arrangements. QClosed Sun.<br />

Valentinčič Tourism Podsabotin 48A, Kojsko, tel. +386<br />

41 65 19 39/+386 53 04 65 78, uros.valentincic@siol.net,<br />

www.valentincic.si. For nearly half a century the Valentinčič<br />

family has been producing wine in the fertile rolling hills of Brda.<br />

Specialising in fresh whites, including the region’s indigenous Rebula,<br />

the place is open to visitors year-round, although it’s always<br />

a good idea to call and make arrangements in advance. In addition<br />

wine tastings and tours, the family’s four-hectare estate also<br />

serves as a relaxing bed breakfast (the latter being quite tasty),<br />

with six rooms and one suite, all fitted with wooden furniture,<br />

modern amenities and ample amounts of rustic charm.<br />

Vinska Klet Goriška Brda Zadružna 9, Dobrovo,<br />

tel. +386 5 33 10 100, fax +386 5 33 10 109, info@<br />

klet-brda.si, www.klet-brda.com. This cooperative is the<br />

region’s largest wine producer and also boasts the country’s<br />

largest wine cellar, with a capacity of 18 million litres. Since its<br />

formation back in 1922, the cooperative has been the driving<br />

force behind Goriška Brda’s viticulture tradition, and has also<br />

taken an active role in promoting the region throughout Slovenia<br />

and abroad. Highly educational tours of the cellar along<br />

with wine tastings start at only €2.50 per person. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Eastern Slovenia<br />

Galantes Wines www.vina-galantes.si, tel. (+386)<br />

2654 42 70. Part of a cooperative aimed at promoting naturally-grown<br />

products from the Štajerska region, they operate<br />

two wine cellars in the hills north of Maribor and can arrange<br />

tastings and guided tours in the surrounding vineyards. Check<br />

with the tourist information centre or more details.<br />

Jeruzalem (Prlekija Tourist Organisation) Jureša<br />

Cirila 4, Ljutomer, tel. (+386) 2581 11 05, fax (+386)<br />

2584 83 <strong>34</strong>, info@jeruzalem.si, www.jeruzalem.si. Legend<br />

has it that the vine covered landscape of the Ljutomer-Ormož<br />

hills, and the wine it produces, so enchanted passing crusaders<br />

that a good number of them found it difficult to continue on their<br />

quest to regain the Holy Land. Torn between religious fervour<br />

and Bacchanalian urges, it was decided that the most expedient<br />

solution would be to abandon their crusade and instead<br />

just name the highest hill in area Jeruzalem - which in hindsight<br />

may not have been the such a bad decision. Regardless of the<br />

legend’s historical accuracy, it’s a matter of fact that the region<br />

produces some of the best wine in the country, and its wine<br />

roads are well worth visiting. Check with the local tourist board<br />

for information on arranging accommodation and guided tours.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Radgonske Gorice Slovenia’s first producer of sparkling<br />

wine has been turning out the bubbly stuff for over a century and<br />

a half now. Located only a few hundred metres from the Austrian<br />

border, their vast cellars are open for tastings, tours and even<br />

the odd wedding, while a sightseeing train makes its way though<br />

the thousand year old Radgona and Kapela districts.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

wine tAsting<br />

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December 2009 - January 2010<br />

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4 shopping<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Postal rates<br />

Letters


LiFestyLe direCtory<br />

Beauty & Wellness<br />

CHAOTHAI masaže za boljše počutje F-3, Jana Husa<br />

3, tel. (+386) 40 83 73 63, chaothai.si@gmail.com,<br />

www.chaothai.si. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

Massage Corner H-1, Dunajska 111a/(+386) 040 97<br />

14 67. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386)<br />

1588 2600/(+386) 030 388 388, sense@sense-club.<br />

com, ww.sense-club.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

Sončni studio body line C-3, Poljanska <strong>cesta</strong> 15, tel.<br />

(+386) 40 780 036.<br />

Clinics<br />

Barsos-MC B-3, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. (+386) 1 242 07<br />

00, fax (+386) 1 242 07 44, barsos.ordinacija.net.<br />

Health Centre Metelkova D-2, Metelkova 9, tel.<br />

(+386) 1472 37 00, www.zd-lj.si.<br />

Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina H-2, Rožna dolina<br />

IV/45, tel. (+386) 1477 94 00, info@kirurski-sanatorij.<br />

si, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si.<br />

University Medical Centre Ljubljana D-2, Zaloška 2,<br />

tel. (+386) 1522 50 50, info@kclj.si, www2.kclj.si.<br />

Dentists<br />

Babit Kolezijska 25, tel. (+386) 1283 23 73, info@babit.<br />

si, www.babit.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Dental clinic Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 1522 53 46.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Health Centre Metelkova D-2, Metelkova 9, www.<br />

zd-lj.si. QOpen 20:30 - 04:30.<br />

Design<br />

Ultimo Imerio J-2, Zaloška 24, tel. (+386) 41 512 565,<br />

fax (+386) 1 5401833, info@ultimoimperio.com, www.<br />

ultimoimperio.com.<br />

Dry cleaners<br />

Chemo Express B-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1251 44<br />

04. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Femiks C-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. (+386) 1230 18 20,<br />

femiks@amis.net. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Mehurček Viška 54, tel. (+386) 1256 77 08, mehurcek@mehurcek.si,<br />

www.mehurcek.si. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Hairdressers<br />

Mič Styling B-3, Kongresni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1241 40<br />

40, www.micstyling.com. With six locations in Ljubljana,<br />

Mič is one of the city’s most well-known hairdressers (or<br />

‘frizerski’ in Slovene). All of the locations have similar stylish<br />

interiors, with minimalist designs, down-tempo music and<br />

large selections of hair products available for purchase. Most<br />

of the salons are in the city centre, with the exceptions being<br />

in City Park and Mercator Centre Šiška. QOpen 08:00<br />

- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Simple, Ljubljana E.Leclerc J-3, Jurčkova <strong>cesta</strong><br />

225, tel. (+386) 1428 98 98, info@simple.si, www.<br />

simple.si. QOpen 8:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Simple, Ljubljana SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova <strong>cesta</strong> 223,<br />

tel. (+386) 1427 40 98, info@simple.si, www.simple.si.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Stevo C-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. (+386) 1431 51 38,<br />

stevo@siol.net, www.stevo-sp.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />

Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Studio Christian B-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 41 98<br />

77 17. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Opticians<br />

Mestna optika B-3, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. (+386)<br />

1251 41 56, matija.kopac@mestna-optika.si, www.<br />

mestna-optika.si. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30<br />

- 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Optika FELIKS A-3, Igriška 14, tel. (+386) 1425 00<br />

02/(+386) 040 206 070, info@optikafeliks.com, www.<br />

optikafeliks.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Optika FELIKS, PE: SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova <strong>cesta</strong><br />

223, tel. (+386) 1427 31 03/(+386) 031 835 500, supernova@optikafeliks.com,<br />

www.optikafeliks.com. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />

Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 72<br />

82, info@zajec-optika.si, www.zajec-optika.si. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Pharmacies<br />

Central Pharmacy (Centralna lekarna) B-3,<br />

Prešernov Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1244 23 60, lekarna.<br />

ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. QOpen 07:30<br />

- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Lekarna Ljubljana D-2, Prisojna 7, tel. (+386) 1230<br />

62 30, lekarna.ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarnalj.si.<br />

Q Open 24hrs.<br />

Lekarna Miklošič C-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. (+386) 1230<br />

62 52, lekarna.ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si.<br />

QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


usiness direCtory<br />

Banks<br />

Abanka B-2, Slovenska 50, tel. (+386) 1300 15 00.<br />

Bank Of Slovenia B-2, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386)<br />

1471 90 00.<br />

Deželna Banka Slovenije C-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel.<br />

(+386) 1472 71 00.<br />

Hypo Group Alpe Adria B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386)<br />

1580 41 40.<br />

Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel.<br />

(+386) 1476 39 00.<br />

Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. (+386)<br />

12<strong>34</strong> 98 18.<br />

Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1471 59 58.<br />

Unicredit Banka Slovenija B-3, Wolfova 1, tel.<br />

(+386) 1587 64 72.<br />

Business centres<br />

Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova<br />

63, tel. (+386) 1620 <strong>34</strong> 80.<br />

Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel.<br />

(+386) 1307 09 33.<br />

Tehnološki Park Ljubljana H-2, Teslova 30, tel.<br />

(+386) 1477 66 13.<br />

The Business <strong>Center</strong> (Virtual Office and Business<br />

<strong>Center</strong>) B-2, Slovenska <strong>34</strong>, tel. (+386) 1 4701 690.<br />

Chambers of Commerce<br />

Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia<br />

H-1, Dimičeva 13, tel. (+386) 1589 80 00.<br />

Computers<br />

Comshop BTC J-2, Šmartinska 152/9, tel. (+386)<br />

051 <strong>34</strong> 59 11.<br />

Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 31 610 604.<br />

Tech Trade B-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. (+386) 14<strong>34</strong><br />

01 08.<br />

Consultants<br />

IQbator B-2, Drenikova 33, tel. (+386) 41690666.<br />

MM-konto H - - 1, Devova 5, tel. (+386) 1515 50 22.<br />

Par H-3, Tbilisijska 128, tel. (+386) 1423 15 06.<br />

Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. (+386) 1565 45<br />

67.<br />

Tax-Fin-Lex C-1, Dunajska 20, tel. (+386) 1432<br />

42 43.<br />

Currency exchange<br />

Menjalnica AŽUR C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. (+386)<br />

1786 08 80.<br />

Primus Group C-1/2, Trg OF 6, tel. (+386) 1432<br />

10 14.<br />

Publikum FIN C-2, Miklošičeva <strong>34</strong>, tel. (+386) 1300<br />

60 80.<br />

Embassies and Consulates<br />

Albania J-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1547 36 50.<br />

Australia (Consulate) H-2, Dunajska 50, tel. (+386)<br />

1425 42 52.<br />

Austria A-3, Prešernova 23, tel. (+386) 1479 07 00.<br />

Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. (+386) 1200<br />

60 10.<br />

Bosnia & Herzegovina H-1/2, Kolarjeva 26, tel.<br />

(+386) 12<strong>34</strong> 32 50.<br />

Brazil B-3, Kongresni trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 24 00.<br />

Bulgaria H-3, Opekarska 35, tel. (+386) 1 28 32<br />

899.<br />

Canada (consulate) B-2, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386)<br />

1252 44 44.<br />

Chile (consulate) G-2, Brdnikova <strong>34</strong>b, tel. (+386)<br />

1423 96 70.<br />

China E-2, Koblarjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1420 28 55.<br />

Croatia C-4, Gruberjevo nabrežje 6, tel. (+386) 1200<br />

44 01.<br />

Cyprus B-2, Komenskega 12, tel. (+386) 1232 15<br />

42.<br />

Czech Republic A-3, Riharjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1420<br />

24 50.<br />

Denmark B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) 143 80 800.<br />

Egypt B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1308 18 50.<br />

Finland B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300<br />

21 20.<br />

France B-4, Barjanska 1, tel. (+386) 1479 04 00.<br />

Germany A-2, Prešernova 27, tel. (+386) 1479 03<br />

00.<br />

Greece C-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. (+386) 1420<br />

14 00.<br />

Hungary G-1, Ulica Konrada Babnika 5, tel. (+386)<br />

1512 18 82.<br />

India B-2, Maurerjeva 29, tel. (+386) 1513 31 17.<br />

Indonesia (consulate) A-3, Prešernova 11, tel.<br />

(+386) 1200 51 77.<br />

Ireland C-3, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1300 89<br />

70.<br />

Israel (consulate) H-1, Dunajska 119, tel. (+386)<br />

1566 10 20.<br />

Italy A-3, Snežniška 8, tel. (+386) 1426 21 94.<br />

Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. (+386) 1200 82<br />

81.<br />

Jordan (consulate) J-2, Zaloška 159, tel. (+386)<br />

1546 15 00.<br />

Latvia B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 040 22 91 71.<br />

Lithuania B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244<br />

26 11.<br />

Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 27, tel.<br />

(+386) 1470 70 15.<br />

Macedonia A-3, Prešernova 2, tel. (+386) 1421<br />

00 21.<br />

Malta (consulate) B-2, Kersnikova 11, tel. (+386)<br />

041 444 014.<br />

Mehico ((consulate)) B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386)<br />

1470 70 35.<br />

Montenegro D-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. (+386) 1439<br />

53 64.<br />

Morocco (consulate) H-2, Bizjanova 2, tel. (+386)<br />

1581 63 00.<br />

Netherlands C-2, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1420<br />

14 61.<br />

New Zealand (consulate) H-1, Verovškova 57, tel.<br />

(+386) 1580 30 55.<br />

Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300<br />

21 40.<br />

Philippines (consulate) H-1, Ulica Bratov Učakar 50,<br />

tel. (+386) 1518 15 84.<br />

Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. (+386) 1 436 47 12.<br />

Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. (+386) 1479<br />

05 40.<br />

Romania H-1, Smrekarjeva 33A, tel. (+386) 1505<br />

82 94.<br />

Russia A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1422 49 20.<br />

Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1438 01 10.<br />

Seychelles (consulate) Tržaška 19a, Logatec, 30km<br />

southwest of Ljubljana, tel. (+386) 1754 29 46.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

business direCtory<br />

December 2009 - January 2010


0 business direCtory<br />

Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 25.<br />

South Africa (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 4, tel.<br />

(+386) 1200 63 00.<br />

South Korea (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel.<br />

(+386) 1252 71 17.<br />

Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. (+386) 1420<br />

23 30.<br />

Sweden B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 130 00<br />

270.<br />

Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. (+386)<br />

1200 86 40.<br />

Thailand (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 12, tel. (+386)<br />

1433 30 26.<br />

Turkey B-1, Livarska 4, tel. (+386) 1236 41 50.<br />

Ukraine H-2, Teslova 23, tel. (+386) 1421 06 04.<br />

UK A-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. (+386) 1200 39 10.<br />

USA A-2, Prešernova 31, tel. (+386) 1200 55 00.<br />

Vatican C-3, Krekov Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1433 92 04.<br />

Insurance companies<br />

Adriatic Slovenica C-2, Miklošičeva 20, tel. (+386)<br />

1439 81 80.<br />

Generali H-2, Kržičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1475 71 00.<br />

Kd Življenje H-1, Celovška 206, tel. (+386) 158 26<br />

522.<br />

Triglav C-2, Miklošičeva 19, tel. (+386) 1474 73 20.<br />

Internet Cafés<br />

CyberHP Café Citypark Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386)<br />

15 42 15 30.<br />

Drog-Art C-2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. (+386) 14 39 72 70.<br />

Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10,<br />

tel. (+386) 12 91 23 96.<br />

Xplorer C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, tel. (+386)<br />

1430 19 91.<br />

Lawyers<br />

Janez Pejovnik B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1200<br />

76 86.<br />

Odvetniška družba Mramor, Sorta, Bilić & Holec<br />

C-2, Komenskega 4, tel. (+386) 59 93 77 00.<br />

Odvetniška pisarna Miro Senica in odvetniki B-4,<br />

Barjanska 3, tel. (+386) 1252 80 00.<br />

Peter Mele odvetniška pisarna C-2, Resljeva 25,<br />

tel. (+386) 1430 04 61.<br />

Ministries<br />

Agriculture, Forestry and Food H-2, Dunajska 58,<br />

tel. (+386) 1478 90 00.<br />

Culture D-2, Maistrova 10, tel. (+386) 1369 59 00.<br />

Defence H-1, Vojkova 55, tel. (+386) 1471 22 11.<br />

Economy C-2, Kotnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1400 33 11.<br />

Education and Sport C-2, Kotnikova 38, tel. (+386)<br />

1478 42 00.<br />

Environment and Spatial Planning H-2, Dunajska<br />

48, tel. (+386) 1478 74 00.<br />

Finance B-2, Župančičeva 13, tel. (+386) 1369 66 10.<br />

Foreign Affairs A-3, Prešernova 25, tel. (+386) 1478<br />

20 00.<br />

Health B-2, Štefanova 5, tel. (+386) 1478 60 01.<br />

Higher Education, Science and Technology D-1,<br />

Kotnikova 38, tel. (+386) 1478 46 00.<br />

Interior B-2, Štefanova 2, tel. (+386) 1428 40 00.<br />

Justice B-2, Župančičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1369 52 00.<br />

Labour, Family and Social Affairs C-2, Kotnikova<br />

5, tel. (+386) 1369 77 00.<br />

Public Administration H-2, Tržaška 21, tel. (+386)<br />

1478 83 30.<br />

Transport H-2, Langusova 4, tel. (+386) 1478 80 00.<br />

NGOs<br />

Amnesty International B-2, Beethovnova 7, tel.<br />

(+386) 1426 93 77.<br />

Cnvos F-3, Povšetova 37, tel. (+386) 1542 14 22.<br />

Lic F-3, Povšetova 37, tel. (+386) 1521 18 88.<br />

Peace Institute D-2, Metelkova 6, tel. (+386) 12<strong>34</strong><br />

77 20.<br />

Red Cross (Rdeči Križ) B-4, Mirje 19, tel. (+386)<br />

1241 43 00.<br />

Sonček H-1, Rožanska 2, tel. (+386) 15<strong>34</strong> 06 67.<br />

Zveza AIESEC Slovenija B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel.<br />

(+386) 51 299 863.<br />

Notaries<br />

Košak ml. Miro B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386) 1<br />

244 25 00.<br />

Nevenka Tory B-2, Beethovnova 14, tel. (+386)<br />

1242 96 80.<br />

Real estate<br />

Abc Nepremičnine B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386)<br />

1300 00 00.<br />

Agencia Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1521 15 65.<br />

Ljubljana Nepremičnine B-2, Cankarjeva 10, tel.<br />

(+386) 80 81 81.<br />

Luster H-2, Tržaška 124, tel. (+386) 1200 49 54.<br />

Royal Nepremičnine B-2, Cigaletova 5, tel. (+386)<br />

1300 73 70.<br />

Relocations<br />

Relocations Ltd H-1, Slovenska <strong>34</strong> (The Business<br />

Centre), tel. (+386) 40 51 78 20.<br />

Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel.<br />

(+386) 1565 69 50.<br />

Vatovec C-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. (+386) 1430 13 40.<br />

Media<br />

Delo B-1, Dunajska 5, tel. (+386) 1473 77 00, info@<br />

delo.si, www.delo.si.<br />

Dnevnik C-3, Kopitarjeva 2 & 4, tel. (+386) 1308<br />

21 00, info@dnevnik.si, www.dnevnik.si.<br />

Pro plus J-1/2, <strong>Kranj</strong>čeva 26, tel. (+386) 1589 32<br />

00, info@pop-tv.si, www.24ur.com.<br />

Radio Slovenia International Ilichova 33, Maribor,<br />

tel. (+386) 2 429 92 79.<br />

Rtv Slovenija C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. (+386) 1475<br />

21 11, info@rtvslo.si, www.rtvslo.si.<br />

Samaritan Kolezijska 7, tel. (+386) 14 20 57 01.<br />

SEE Business Jesenkova 7, tel. (+386) 15 13<br />

08 30.<br />

Slovenian Press Agency B-1, Tivolska 50, tel.<br />

(+386) 24 10 10, desk@sta.si, www.sta.si.<br />

Svet & Ljudje F-1, Peričeva ulica 17, tel. (+386)<br />

1431 8170, savina.dreu@svetinljudje.si, www.<br />

svetinljudje.si.<br />

The Slovenia Times A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih<br />

Brigad 12, tel. (+386) 1520 50 84, info@sloveniatimes.com,<br />

www.sloveniatimes.com.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

See Business is an English-language<br />

business magazine covering the region<br />

of Southeastern Europe.<br />

We publish exclusive reports<br />

from Southeastern Europe on:<br />

- business, investment opportunities<br />

- market opportunities<br />

- the best companies in Southeastern Europe<br />

- banking, nance, stock exchange<br />

For more information please contact us:<br />

E-mail: bjm.nina@siol.net<br />

Phone : +386 (0) 1 513 08 30<br />

Fax: +386 (0) 1 513 08 31<br />

Web: seebusiness.eu


2monolitmap_165_90_en.pdf business 18.3.2009 0:47:20 direCtory<br />

N5<br />

14B<br />

Bokalce<br />

Pod Kamno Gorico<br />

25<br />

7L<br />

23<br />

Pri Poku<br />

1S<br />

Nedeljski sejem<br />

Dolgi most Rotar<br />

Na Gmajnici<br />

Brod<br />

1B<br />

N1 1B 1S<br />

14 14B<br />

21<br />

N11 27K<br />

N1 N3<br />

N5<br />

Kolezija<br />

11B<br />

Navje<br />

23<br />

Dalmatinova<br />

20Z<br />

Gornji<br />

trg<br />

Krekov<br />

trg<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Zmajski<br />

most<br />

Zmajski<br />

most<br />

Orlova<br />

6B<br />

21<br />

27K<br />

SHEMA LINIJ LPP<br />

MESTNI JAVNI LINIJSKI PREVOZ<br />

LPP MAP OF BUS ROUTES<br />

LJUBLJANA CITY PUBLIC TRANSPORT<br />

Zapelji se na www.lpp.si<br />

7L 27<br />

11B N11<br />

25<br />

JUNIJ 2008<br />

20Z<br />

Adamič-Lundrovo B/C-3<br />

Ajdovščina B-2<br />

Ambrožev trg D-3<br />

Aškerčeva A-3/4, B-4<br />

Avčinova C/D-1<br />

Barjanska B-4, H2/3<br />

Bavdkova F-1<br />

Bazoviška F-1<br />

Beethovnova B-2/3<br />

Bernekerjeva E/F-1<br />

Bezenškova E/F-1<br />

Bogišičeva A-4<br />

Bohoričeva D/E-2<br />

Bolgarska D-1, E-1/2<br />

Borštnikov trg A-3<br />

Breg B-3/4<br />

C. 27. Aprila A-3<br />

Cankarjeva A/B-2<br />

Cankarjevo B-3<br />

Celovška G-1, H-1/2<br />

Celovška <strong>cesta</strong> A/B-1, B-2<br />

Cigaletova B/C-2<br />

Cimpermanova C-4<br />

Ciril-Metodov trg C-3<br />

Čopova B-2/3<br />

Črtomirova D-1<br />

Čufarjeva C-2<br />

Dalmatinova B/C-2<br />

Dolenjska H/J-3<br />

Društvena F-2<br />

Dunajska B/C-1, H-1/2<br />

Dvorakova B-2<br />

Dvorni trg B-3<br />

Eipprova B-4<br />

Emonska B-4<br />

Erjavčeva A/B-3<br />

Finžgarjeva A-4<br />

Frankopanska A/B-1<br />

Gallusovo B-3/4<br />

Gasparijeva E/F-2<br />

Glonarjeva E-3<br />

Gornji trg B/C-3, C-4<br />

Gortanova F-3<br />

Gosposka B-3/4<br />

Gosposvetska B-2<br />

Grablovičeva E-1/2, F-2/3<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Gradaška A/B-4<br />

Grajska planota C-3/4, D-4<br />

Gregorčičeva A/B-3<br />

Groharjeva A-4<br />

Grudnovo nabrežje B-4<br />

Gubčeva A-1<br />

Hacquetova D-1<br />

Hajdrihova A-4<br />

Hradeckega D/E/F-4<br />

Hrenova C-4<br />

Hribarjevo B-3<br />

Hrvatski trg D-2<br />

Igriška A/B-3<br />

Ilirska C/D-2<br />

Ižanska C/D-4, H-3<br />

Jakopičeva F-2/3<br />

Jakopičevo sprehajališče A-1<br />

Jamova A-4<br />

Janežičeva C-4<br />

Japljeva E-2<br />

Jenkova D/E-2<br />

Jurčičev trg B-3<br />

Kajuhova J-2<br />

Karlovška <strong>cesta</strong> C-4<br />

Karunova B-4<br />

Kavčičeva E/F-1<br />

Kersnikova B-2<br />

Klunova F-2<br />

Knafljev prehod B-3<br />

Koblarjeva E-2/3, F-3<br />

Kolezijska A/B-4<br />

Kolinska E-1<br />

Kolodvorska C-2<br />

Komenskega C-2<br />

Kongresni trg B-3<br />

Kopališka A-4<br />

Kopitarjeva ulica C-3/4<br />

Korytkova E-1/2<br />

Kosovelova F-2/3<br />

Koširjeva F-3<br />

Kotnikova C-2<br />

Krakovska B-4<br />

Krakovski nasip B-4<br />

Krekov trg C-3<br />

Križevniška B-4<br />

Kumanovska D-3<br />

The Dnevnik Building is truly a crime against architecture<br />

Langusova A-4<br />

Lepi pot A-4<br />

Levstikov trg B-4<br />

Levstikova A-3<br />

Likozarjeva B-1<br />

Linhartova H/J-2<br />

Lipičeva D/E-3<br />

Litijska <strong>cesta</strong> F-3, J/K-2, K-3<br />

Livarska B-1<br />

Maistrova D-2<br />

Majaronova E-1<br />

Mala C-2<br />

Malejeva F-2<br />

Malenškova E-2<br />

Malgajeva A-1<br />

Mali trg C-2<br />

Masarykova C-1, D-1/2<br />

Medvedova A/B-1<br />

Mencingerjeva A-4<br />

Mesarska E-3<br />

Mestni trg B-3<br />

Metelkova D-2<br />

Miklošičeva B/C-2<br />

Mirje A/B-4<br />

Močnikova E-2<br />

Murnikova A-4<br />

Nazorjeva B-2<br />

Neubergerjeva D-1<br />

Njegoševa <strong>cesta</strong> D-2<br />

Novakova D-1<br />

Novi trg B-3<br />

Ob Ljubljanici E/F-2<br />

Ob Zeleni jami E-1<br />

Parmova B-1<br />

Partizanska F-1/2<br />

Perčeva F-1<br />

Peternelova B-3<br />

Petkovškovo nabrežje C-2<br />

Pivovarniška B-1<br />

Plečnikov trg B-3<br />

Pleteršnikova B-1<br />

Pod ježami E/F-1<br />

Pogačerjev trg C-3<br />

Pohlinova E/F-1<br />

Pokopališka F-1<br />

Poljanska C/D/E-3, H/J-2<br />

street register<br />

Poljanski nasip C/D/E-3<br />

Poljedelska F-1<br />

Potočnikova E-3<br />

Potrčeva E-2<br />

Povšetova E-3, F-2/3<br />

Praprotnikova C-4<br />

Pražakova B/C-2<br />

Prešernov trg B-3<br />

Prešernova A-2/3<br />

Prijateljeva C-4<br />

Prisojna D-2<br />

Privoz C-4<br />

Proletarska c. F-1/2<br />

Prule C-4<br />

Prvomajska F-2<br />

Pugljeva F-2<br />

Puharjeva B-2<br />

Resljeva <strong>cesta</strong> C-2<br />

Ribji trg B-3<br />

Riharjeva A-4<br />

Rimska A/B-3<br />

Robbova C-1<br />

Roška <strong>cesta</strong> D-3/4<br />

Rozmanova D-2/3<br />

Ruska A/B-1<br />

Salendrova B-3<br />

Sketova E-1/2<br />

Slomškova C/D-2<br />

Slovenska <strong>cesta</strong> B-2/3, H-2<br />

Snežniška A-3/4<br />

Središka E/F-1<br />

Stari trg B-3<br />

Streliška C-3, D-3/4<br />

Strossmayerjeva C-3<br />

Stritarjeva B-3<br />

Šlajmerjeva E-2<br />

Šmartinska E-1, J-1/2,K-1<br />

Štefanova B-2<br />

Štihova D-1<br />

Šubičeva A/B-3<br />

Tabor D-2<br />

Tavčarjeva B/C-2<br />

Teslova A-4<br />

Tivolska <strong>cesta</strong><br />

A-2/3,B-1/2, H-2<br />

Tomšičeva A/B-2<br />

Topniška D-1<br />

Tovarniška E/F-1<br />

Trdinova B/C-2<br />

Trg Fr. revolucije B-3<br />

Trg mladinskih del. brigad A-3<br />

Trg OF C-1<br />

Trg Republike A/B-3<br />

Trnovska B-4<br />

Trnovski pristan B/C-4<br />

Trubarjeva C/D-2<br />

Tržaška A-3, H-2/3,G-3<br />

Turnsko nabrežje F-3<br />

Ul. G. Delčeva F-2/3<br />

Ul. J. Husa F-2/3<br />

Ul. St. Pravde C/D-4<br />

Ul. Talcev C/D-4<br />

Večna pot G/H-2<br />

Vegova B-3<br />

Veselova A-3<br />

Vilharjeva <strong>cesta</strong> C/D-1, H/J-2<br />

Vodmatska F-2<br />

Vodnikov trg C-3<br />

Vogelna B-4<br />

Vošnjakova B-2<br />

Vrazov trg D-3<br />

Vrhovčeva D-2<br />

Vrtača A-3<br />

Vurnikova D-1<br />

Wolfova B-3<br />

Za gradom C/D-4<br />

Zadobrovška K-1/2<br />

Zaloška <strong>cesta</strong> D/E/F-2, J/K-2<br />

Zarnikova D-3<br />

Združna F-2<br />

Zeljarska A-4<br />

Zemljemerska D-3/4<br />

Ziherlova B/C-4<br />

Zoisova B-4<br />

Zrinjskega C/D-4<br />

Zvezna F-1<br />

Zvonarska C-4<br />

Žabjak B/C-4<br />

Železna C-1<br />

Žibertova A-1<br />

Židovska B-3<br />

Župančičeva B-2<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

3


index<br />

Adria Airways 11<br />

AGIO rent a car 10<br />

Ahotel 31<br />

Air France 11<br />

Ajda 44<br />

Ajdovo Zrno 46<br />

Ambient 36<br />

Andor 80<br />

Antikvariat 66<br />

Antiq 30<br />

Apartments Kaninska Vas 76<br />

Aqua 69<br />

Arena Vodafone live! - Gladiator<br />

(BTC <strong>Center</strong>) 27<br />

As 39<br />

Asdom Apartments 36<br />

As Lounge 52<br />

Atet 10<br />

Atlantis Water Park 27<br />

Austrian Airlines 11<br />

Austria Trend 30<br />

AutoRent 10<br />

Avant 10<br />

Avis 10<br />

Azur <strong>34</strong>, 42<br />

B&R Bar 76<br />

Babit 86<br />

Baby center 69<br />

Bachus 54<br />

Bachus <strong>Center</strong> 40<br />

Bangkok Street 37<br />

Bazilika Shop & Cafe 47<br />

Best Western Premier Slon 31<br />

Bi-Ko-Fe 49<br />

Biljardna Hiša 52<br />

Biosfera 27<br />

Bit <strong>Center</strong> Hotel 27<br />

Bit Sport <strong>Center</strong> 27<br />

Boka Pension 74<br />

Botanical Gardens 65<br />

Boutique Lacoste 67<br />

Bovška Hiša 76<br />

Breskvar Tennis Academy 27<br />

Brussels Airlines 11<br />

BTC City 70<br />

Budget Rent a Car 10<br />

Bulgaria 88<br />

Bus station 10<br />

Café Galerija 49<br />

Café Open 59<br />

Café Plato 47<br />

Cankarjev dom 23<br />

Cantina Mexicana 43<br />

Cantina Simčič 82<br />

Carrent 10<br />

Casino Kongo 52<br />

Casino Lev 52<br />

Casino Tivoli 57<br />

Cathedral 60<br />

Celica <strong>34</strong><br />

<strong>Center</strong> <strong>34</strong><br />

Central 31<br />

Central Market 70<br />

Central Pharmacy 86<br />

Čevljarski Most 60<br />

Cha 48<br />

China Fast Food 37<br />

City 31<br />

City Museum 63<br />

Citypark 72<br />

City Theatre 24<br />

Collegium 11<br />

Čolnarna 48<br />

Conestoga 50<br />

Contemporary History<br />

Museum 63<br />

Črna Luknja 68<br />

Čupiterija 50<br />

Cutty Sark 57<br />

Cvetličarna Mediapark 23<br />

Czech Airlines 11<br />

Delikatesa Ljubljanski Dvor 44<br />

Dolce & Gabbana Outlet 67<br />

Dvorni Bar 54<br />

Easyjet 11<br />

Emonec <strong>34</strong><br />

Emporium 67<br />

En Pub 57<br />

Equrna 24<br />

Erzetič 82<br />

Escape 58<br />

ESITI 24<br />

Europcar 10<br />

Evangelical Church 60<br />

Eventim 24<br />

Exhibition and Convention<br />

Centre 23<br />

Falafel 44<br />

FedEx 85<br />

Femiks 86<br />

Festivalna Dvorana 23<br />

Figovec 45<br />

Fit&Fun <strong>Center</strong> 27<br />

Flat 67<br />

Flea Market 70<br />

Fluxus 36<br />

Foculus 44<br />

Fortuna 66<br />

Foto Grad 70<br />

Foto Maxi 70<br />

Foto Tivoli 70<br />

Fresco 38<br />

Furla 67<br />

Gajo Jazz Club 56<br />

Galantes Wines 83<br />

Ganes Pratt 24<br />

Goethe-Institut 23<br />

Gostilna Kovač 45<br />

Gostilna Lovec 45<br />

Gostilna Sovdat 76<br />

Gostišče Vančar 76<br />

Gotour 76<br />

Gradiant 27<br />

Grajska Kavarna 48<br />

Grand Casino Ljubljana 52<br />

Grand Hotel Union<br />

Business 28<br />

Grand Hotel Union<br />

Executive 28<br />

Grandvid 36<br />

Guinness Pub 57<br />

Gymnasivm Sauna 59<br />

H & M 67<br />

Hala Tivoli 23<br />

Hard Core Cafe 58<br />

Hertz 10<br />

Hotel Alp 74<br />

Hotel Kanin 74<br />

Hot Horse 44<br />

Igloo Village Krvavec 77<br />

Imperio Mexicano 43<br />

InBox 55<br />

Institut Français 23<br />

Instituto Cervantes 23<br />

International Centre of<br />

Graphic Arts 63<br />

Intersport 72<br />

Istituto Italiano di Cultura 23<br />

JAT Airways 11<br />

JB 40<br />

Jeruzalem 83<br />

Joe Peña's 43<br />

Jurman 40<br />

K4 Roza 59<br />

Kavalino 43<br />

Kavarna 1920 76<br />

Kavarna Maček Rooms 32<br />

Kavarna Tromostovje 48<br />

Kavarna Union 24<br />

Kažipot 11<br />

Kino Dvor 23<br />

Kinoklub Vič 23<br />

Kino Šiška 23<br />

Kinoteka 23<br />

Kipling Store 68<br />

Klub 12 57<br />

Klub300 27<br />

Klub K4 55<br />

Klub Slon 58<br />

Klub SubSub 55<br />

KMŠ 55<br />

Knjižnica Otona Župančiča 24<br />

Kobla Ski <strong>Center</strong> 77<br />

Kodeljevo 27<br />

Kodeljevo sports park 27<br />

Kolosej 23<br />

Kompas 11<br />

Konex center 27<br />

Konkurenca 44<br />

Koželj 68<br />

Kraljev Hrib 27<br />

Križanke Open Air Theatre 24<br />

KUD France Prešeren 23<br />

L'Occitane 66<br />

Laguna Spa & Fun 27<br />

Lan 48<br />

Lar's Bar 50<br />

La Storia 43<br />

Latino Nightclub 58<br />

Latvia 88<br />

Lekarna Ljubljana 86<br />

Lekarna Miklošič 86<br />

Le Petit Café 48<br />

Letni Vrt 76<br />

Lev 28<br />

Lic 90<br />

Lili in Roza 68<br />

Lithuania 88<br />

Ljubljana airport 11<br />

Ljubljana Gay and Lesbian<br />

Film Festival 59<br />

Ljubljana Nepremičnine 90<br />

Ljubljana Tourist Information<br />

Office at the Railway Station<br />

24<br />

Ljubljanček 69<br />

Ljubljanski Dvor 40<br />

Ljubljanski Univerzitetni<br />

Inkubator 88<br />

LPP 9<br />

Lufthansa 11<br />

Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe 40<br />

Luster 90<br />

Luxemburg (consulate) 88<br />

Macedonia 88<br />

Maček 48<br />

Made in Slovenia 69<br />

Main post office 85<br />

Makalonca 50<br />

Malév 11<br />

Malta (consulate) 88<br />

Mandarina Duck 68<br />

Manila Club 57<br />

Manna 40<br />

Marella 68<br />

Marina Yachting 72<br />

Marita 81<br />

Massage Corner 86<br />

Maxim 40<br />

Maxi Market 66<br />

Max Mara 68<br />

McDonald's 44<br />

Medno <strong>34</strong><br />

Mehico 88<br />

Mehurček 86<br />

Melvita 66<br />

Mencigar Nobile 45<br />

Menjalnica AŽUR 88<br />

Mercator <strong>Center</strong> Ljubljana 72<br />

Mestna galerija 1 24<br />

Mestna optika 86<br />

Metelkova Mesto 24<br />

M hotel 31<br />

Mič Styling 86<br />

Midas 66<br />

Millenium 27<br />

Mladinska Knjiga 66<br />

MM-konto 88<br />

Mobitel 85<br />

Mondial Travel 11<br />

Mons 30<br />

Most 40<br />

Motel Encijan 74<br />

Movia 54<br />

Mrakič Apartments 76<br />

Nama 67<br />

Namasté 39<br />

Narodna In Univerzitetna<br />

Knjižnica 24<br />

National Drama Theatre 24<br />

National Gallery 64<br />

National Museum 64<br />

Nebotičnik 60<br />

Nobel Burek 44<br />

Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek 48<br />

Olimpija 44<br />

Oliviers&Co 68<br />

Opera Bar 50<br />

Orthodox Church 62<br />

Orto Bar 55<br />

Österreich Institut 24<br />

Otočec Castle 65<br />

Out in Slovenia 59<br />

Paninoteka 44<br />

Paprika 81<br />

Park 32, 36<br />

Parma 44<br />

Pasta Nona 43<br />

Patrick's Irish Pub 57<br />

Patrick Sport d.o.o. 72<br />

Peace Institute 90<br />

Peko 68<br />

Peter Mele odvetniška<br />

pisarna 90<br />

Philharmonic 23<br />

Philippines (consulate) 88<br />

Piano Bar 56<br />

Piranske Soline 69<br />

Pizzicato 46<br />

Planica 78<br />

Plato 40<br />

Plavalni klub Ilirija 27<br />

Plečnik House 64<br />

Pletilni Studio Draž 68<br />

Poland 88<br />

Poljšak 82<br />

Polna Skleda 40<br />

Portugal 88<br />

Poslovni angeli Slovenije 88<br />

Postojna Cave 65<br />

Pr' potic 46<br />

Premier Pub 57<br />

Pri Mraku 32<br />

Primus Group 88<br />

Pri Semaforju 48<br />

Pristava Lepena 74<br />

Pri Vitezu 42<br />

Pri Vodniku 46<br />

Pro-Eco 88<br />

Pro plus 90<br />

Protocol 10<br />

Public Administration 90<br />

Publikum FIN 88<br />

Puppet Theatre 24<br />

Puppet Theatre Clock 62<br />

Q Cultural Centre 59<br />

Radgonske Gorice 83<br />

Radio Slovenia International<br />

90<br />

Raiffeisen Bank 88<br />

Railway Museum 65<br />

Recreational <strong>Center</strong> Tivoli 27<br />

Red Cross 90<br />

Red Shop 70<br />

Relax 11<br />

Relocations Ltd 90<br />

Restaurant 2000 38<br />

Ribca 39<br />

Rio-Momo 38<br />

Robbov Vodnjak 62<br />

Rogo Sport 72<br />

Rollbar 50<br />

Romania 88<br />

Roundabout 11<br />

Royal Nepremičnine 90<br />

Rožna Hiša 42<br />

Rtv Slovenija 90<br />

Rumeni Taxi 10<br />

Running Sushi & Wok 38<br />

Russia 88<br />

Rustika 69<br />

Salsoteca 27<br />

Samaritan 90<br />

Sarajevo '84 38<br />

SAS Scandinavian Airlines 11<br />

Sauna Zlati Klub 59<br />

Sax Pub 56<br />

Sečovlje Saline Nature<br />

Park 81<br />

SEM Kavarna 48<br />

Separé Café 42<br />

Shambala 38<br />

Simple, Ljubljana<br />

SUPERNOVA 86<br />

Sixt 11<br />

Skriti Kot 42<br />

Škuc Gallery 24<br />

Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku 48<br />

Slon 42<br />

Slon Lounge 50<br />

Slovenian National Opera<br />

& Ballet Theatre 24<br />

Slovenian Tourist Information<br />

<strong>Center</strong> 60<br />

Slo Watch 72<br />

Sobe Jana 36<br />

Sokol 46<br />

Sokol Group d.o.o. 27<br />

Sokol Tivoli Fitness center 27<br />

Sonček 90<br />

Sončni studio body line 86<br />

Sosed 88<br />

South Africa (consulate) 90<br />

South Korea (consulate) 90<br />

Spain 90<br />

Špajza 46<br />

Spin Vinyl Rock'n'Roll<br />

Ploščarna 70<br />

STA 11<br />

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