Assembly & Installation Manual Aluminum Ball Railing Fittings .

Available from the Wagner Companies 

10600 W Brown Deer Rd 

Milwaukee, WI 53224 

1-888-243-6914 

Assembly & Installation Manual Aluminum Ball Railing Fittings . 

Please read the following instructions carefully to ensure the best possible performance from 

your investment. 

• Assembly and Installation of the Kalamazoo Rail system can be a simple process. “Preparation is the key”. 

Study the respective product manuals and videos, gather the necessary tools and materials, and perform the 

assembly in planned steps on a suitable work surface. 

• The railing should be dry assembled prior to making any adhesive connections to identify fitment issues and 

confirm that all necessary components are present. 

• All connections must slip freely to their fully inserted positions. If any of the connections will not slip freely, a 

file or sandpaper should be used to remove the burr or obstruction from pipe or fitting. 

• Plan out the order in which the components will be assembled and the connections made. Adjoining (linked) 

connections often need to be made at the same time and within the working time of the adhesive. If the design 

includes a SADDLE connection, it should be made first. 

• Do not make an adhesive connection that once made, will prevent applying adhesive to another connection. 

• Have a series of connections ready to make so you can maximize the yield from each adhesive cartridge and 

limit the number of mixing nozzles required. Each 50ml adhesive cartridge should make 4 to 6 connections. 

• Connections should be made with the assembly on a flat work surface. Use standard 2x4 blocks, parallels or 

other suitable spacers under the pipe rails to support the assembly above the work surface. This will hold the 

assembly straight and flat while creating clearance for the fittings. 

• If necessary, the adhesive bond can be softened and the fittings disassembled by heating to 400f. This heat will 

damage most coatings. Caution: Aluminum has a melting temperature between 1000f and 1100f. 

• LORD 403/406 acrylic adhesives used in the system require little to no substrate preparation. Remove grease, 

loose contamination or poorly adhering oxides from metal surfaces. Bonds metal to metal, powder coated 

metal to metal as well as powder coated metals together. Working temperature range - 40f to 300f. 

• LORD 406 Working time is 6-10 minutes/Time to Handling strength is 12-17 minutes/Full cure in 24hrs. 

• LORD 403 Working time is 2-4 minutes/Time to Handling strength is 4-6 minutes/Full cure in 24hrs. 

• Before using this or any LORD product, refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) and label for safe use 

and handling instructions. 

Required for assembly: 

Flat work surface 

Spacer blocks 

Adhesive dispenser gun 

-or- 

Caulk gun with Adapter 

Mixing paddle 

Mixing pallet/Waste pallet 

Duct tape 

File (half round) 

Sandpaper 

Mallet (soft face) 

Rags 

Vice grip pliers 

Hacksaw 

Required for SADDLE connection: 

Hand drill 

1/4” & 19/64” twist drill bits 

Rivet Nut Tool 

Hex keys - standard 

Wrench – 1/2” 

Kalamazoo Rail Company 

Supporting instructional videos can be 

found on the internet at YouTube.com 

kalamazoorail’s Channel 

(www.youtube/user/kalamazoorail.com) 

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‘Saddle’ Connection . 

If the railing design includes a SADDLE connection, it should be made first. 

1. Dry assemble the fittings and pipe for the portion of railing adjoining the saddle. 

2. I necessary, tape fittings in place at the correct and fully inserted positions. Use O-rings to hold positions 

of any pass connections. 

3. Square up the dry assembly and determine the correct location for the saddle. (the bolt and nut fastening 

the saddle to the plug should be somewhat tight to keep the assembly aligned) 

4. Mark the saddle position on the pipe to verify that the saddle remains in the correct location during steps 

4, 5 and 6. 

5. Wrap a length of duct tape around pipe and saddle to hold saddle securely in position. (it is fine to tape 

over holes in saddle) 

6. Carefully disassemble all components leaving only the saddle taped in position. 

7. Using the (2) predrilled holes in the saddle as a guide, pilot drill the pipe with a 1/4” twist drill bit. Drill 

squarely into pipe and through one wall only. 

8. Remove the saddle and tape from the pipe. 

9. Enlarge the (2) 1/4” pilot holes in the pipe with a 19/64” twist drill bit. Do not enlarge the holes in the 

saddle. 

10. Insert threaded insert into the drilled holes in the pipe and set with a rivet nut tool. 

11. Option #1 - MIXING PADDLE method- Purge adhesive directly from adhesive cartridge onto waste pallet 

until both components come out equally. Dispense about 1/2 Tbsp. of adhesive onto mixing pallet. Use 

mixing paddle to mix the two components until adhesive appears an even color. 

Option #2 - MIXING NOZZLE method - Purge adhesive from adhesive cartridge through a mixing nozzle 

onto a waste pallet until adhesive appears an even color. 

12. Apply adhesive to the surface of the saddle that will contact pipe. 

13. Fasten the saddle to pipe with (2) flat head screws. If necessary, strike saddle with a soft face mallet to fix 

tightly against pipe. 

14. Wipe excess adhesive from the joint area while forcing adhesive into any visible voids at joint line. (best 

done with a gloved finger - excess adhesive may be used on another connection) 

15. Allow adhesive to cure to handling strength before moving or proceeding with assembly. Time to handling 

strength varies between 6-17 minutes. 





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16. Remove remaining adhesive from the exterior of the assembly before the adhesive cures further. Usually 

all that is required to remove uncured adhesive is wiping with a dry rag. If necessary, use hot water and 

detergent or an organic solvent; ketones (MEK, Acetone etc.) have shown to work best. 

‘Pocket’ Connection . 

The fitting and pipe that make the pocket connection must be separated to apply the adhesive. Assembly of this 

connection may require that adjoining connections be made at the same time and within the working time of the 

adhesive. It can be made by mixing the adhesive through a mixing nozzle –or- with a mixing paddle. 

1. Insert a Type ‘H’ cap into end of pipe to be inserted into the pocket. 

2. Dry fit pipe into pocket and mark pipe at joint line to witness full insertion when adhesive connection is 

made. 


until both components come out equally. Dispense about 1-1/2 Tbsp. of adhesive onto mixing pallet. Use 




4. Apply adhesive directly through a mixing nozzle –or- with a mixing paddle into the pocket. Spread 

adhesive in a thick bead completely around the inside lip of pocket. 

5. Insert pipe into pocket and apply pressure until pipe is completely inserted into pocket. Strike with soft 

face mallet if necessary. The adhesive will be pushed to the bottom of the pocket and any excess adhesive 

will be forced back up and out of the joint. If possible, rotate the fitting or pipe slightly to distribute 

adhesive. 












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‘Plug’ Connection . 

The fitting and pipe that make the plug connection must be separated to apply the adhesive. Assembly of this 

connection may require that adjoining connections be made at the same time and within the working time of the 

adhesive. It can be made by mixing the adhesive through a mixing nozzle –or- with a mixing paddle. 


until both components come out equally. Dispense about 1-1/2 Tbsp. of adhesive onto mixing pallet. Use 




1. Apply adhesive directly from a mixing nozzle –or- with a mixing paddle onto the plug. Spread adhesive 

inside the groove and completely around body of the plug. 

2. Insert plug into pipe and apply pressure until plug is completely inserted. Strike with soft face mallet if 

necessary. The adhesive will be pushed to the bottom of the groove and the excess adhesive will be forced 

back up and out of the joint. If possible, rotate the fitting or pipe slightly to help distribute adhesive. 












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‘Pass’ Connection . 

The fitting and pipe that make the pass connection must be assembled and in position to apply the adhesive. 

Assembly of this connection may require that adjoining connections be made at the same time and within the 

working time of the adhesive. This connection is made by injecting the adhesive with the mixing nozzle directly 

into the fitting through a port hole. This connection cannot be made with a mixing paddle. 

1. To retain the fitting in its correct location during this process, rubber O-rings rolled onto the pipe and 

pushed against the fitting will hold its position. 

2. MIXING NOZZLE method - Purge adhesive from adhesive cartridge through a mixing nozzle onto a waste 

pallet until adhesive appears an even color. 

3. Insert mixing nozzle into port hole of fitting and force adhesive directly into joint. Inject adhesive until it 

emerges from joint area. 

4. Rotate pipe or fitting 180 degrees to distribute adhesive. 

5. Re- Insert mixing nozzle into port hole of fitting and force adhesive directly into joint. Inject adhesive until 

it emerges from joint area. 












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‘Dowel’ Connection . 

The dowel and pipe that make this connection must be separated to apply the adhesive. Assembly of this 

connection does not require that any adjoining connections be made at the same time. This connection is made to 

eliminate nuisance rattling between dowel and post. It can be made by mixing the adhesive through a mixing 

nozzle –or- with a mixing paddle. 


until both components come out equally. Dispense about 2-4 Tbsp. of adhesive onto mixing pallet. Use 




1. Apply adhesive directly from a mixing nozzle –or- with a mixing paddle onto one side of the dowel. Spread 

adhesive down the length of the dowel in a single thick bead. 

2. Insert the dowel into the bottom (or base) of post. The dowel should end flush or slightly inset. Do not 

rotate the dowel to avoid spreading the adhesive around the inside of the post and sealing the passage for 

moisture to drain past the dowel and out of the post. 












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Fitting a ‘Kalamazoo Rail’ to a Stair flange mounting . 

Following are two methods used in fitting a flange mounted railing to a stair. The process hinges on determining 

the correct height of the posts to accommodate the layout of the stair and establish the vertical members in plumb. 

A stair post is often mounted below the pitch line on a tread, making it difficult to calculate its height. 

The FIRST method is a ‘expert’ approach to achieve a ‘good’ fit. This process does not require test fitting to the 

stair during fabrication but relies more on the accurate transfer of measurements from field to shop. Complete 

and accurate site measurements are required, as well as moderate layout skills. 

1. Transfer plumb and level field measurements of the stair in full scale to a layout table. 

2. Assemble the entire railing based on this layout. 

3. Apply paint/coating per coating manufacturer instruction. 

4. Install finished railing to the site with suitable fasteners. (see Appendix A - Fasteners) 

The SECOND method is a ‘novice’ approach to achieve a ‘perfect’ fit. This process does require test fitting to the 

stair during fabrication but relies less on the accurate transfer of measurements from site to shop. Very few 

site measurements are required, and good results can be achieved without special skills. 

1. The upper post is cut to its finished height. 

2. The lower post is cut tall - approx. 6” taller than the upper post. 

3. Partially assemble the railing to a point that it can be test fitted to the stair. Do not make the flange or 

dowel connections on the lower post (or any mid posts). 

4. Place the partially assembled railing on stair and raise the upper post to bring it into plumb. 

5. Capture this measurement (as well as the measurements of any mid posts). 

6. Trim the lower post the same amount as the upper post was raised into plumb. 

7. Make any remaining flange and dowel connections. 

8. Apply paint/coating per coating manufacturer instruction. 

9. Install finished railing to the site with suitable fasteners. (see Appendix A - Fasteners) 

Site Preparation . 





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Survey the condition and stability of the substrate the railing is to be mounted to, or embedded in. Evaluate 

concrete and masonry substrates, repair as necessary. Existing wooden structures may need repair, reinforcement 

or structural members added to support a handrail and secure the anchors. Treated lumber scabbed in under the 

deck at each mounting location is usually all that is necessary. The lumber should be layered up to provide a total 

of 5-1/2” for lag screws to bite into, or 4” to connect through with carriage bolts. (Use stainless steel deck screws 

to tie into the structure and orient the lumber to avoid end-grain lagging.) 

Fitting a ‘Kalamazoo Rail’ to a Stair concrete embedment . 

Following are two methods used in fitting an Embedded Post railing to a stair. This process hinges on determining 

the correct location to bore the holes to match post spacing of the railing when plumb. These methods of fitting the 

railing to stair are very similar to Flange Mounting with the additional length added to all posts for embedment 

and the order of some of the steps have changed. 

The FIRST method does not require test fitting and does not require trimming of any posts at the time of 

installation. This approach relies more on the accurate transfer of measurements while requiring complete 

and accurate field measurements as well as moderate layout skills. 

1. Transfer field measurements of the stair in full scale to a layout table. 

2. Assemble the railing based on this layout - adding 6” to all posts for embedment. 

3. Apply paint per coating manufacturer’s instruction. 

4. Install railing with a suitable core boring/grouting process, following the respective manufacturer 

instruction. 

The SECOND method does not require test fitting but does require trimming of select post(s) at the time of 

installation. This approach relies less on the accurate transfer of measurements and requires very few field 

measurements. 

1. The upper post is cut to its finished height plus 6” for embedment. 

2. The lower post and mid post(s) are cut tall – 6” taller than the upper post. (12” taller than the finished 

height = 6” for embedment + 6” to trim) 

3. Assemble the railing. Do not make any dowel connections. 

4. Apply paint per coating manufacturer’s instruction. 

5. Place the assembled railing on the stair and raise the upper post to bring it into plumb. 

6. Capture this measurement (as well as the measurements of any mid posts). 

7. Trim the lower post the same amount as the upper post was raised into plumb. 

8. Make the remaining dowel connections. 

9. Install the railing with a suitable core bore/grouting process following manufacturer instruction. 

Installing a ‘Kalamazoo Rail’ to a Stair concrete embedment . 

1. Prepare the posts for embedment. (see ‘Controlling Corrosion’) 

2. Place the railing on the stair and determine where it will be installed. 

3. Mark the post location on the stair with a permanent marker. Expand the marks to indicate the 

outside edge of the core bit to be used. 

4. Use the correct size core bit to provide the clearance required by the grout manufacturer. 

5. Prepare to control the mess created by the core bore operation. If using a wet bit you will need to 

protect anything close by from the slurry that will be flung from the core bit during drilling. 

6. core bore to depth, remove core, water rinse, vacuum and dry out the bore. 





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7. Place the railing on the stair with the posts in bores. 

8. If a cover flange is being used, position it high on the post with tape. 

9. plumb up the railing and brace with grout stands or other suitable props, stakes and guy lines. The 

railing must be firmly supported in its final position before proceeding with grout. 

10. Grout in post and caulk joint per manufacturer specification. 

11. Drill a 1/4” hole at 1/4” above grade through post to allow drainage. 

Controlling Corrosion . 

The Kalamazoo Rail Company cautions against installing aluminum components in direct contact with concrete or 

dissimilar metals. Aluminum is known to react with alkali found in cementitious materials which results in a 

number of corrosive chemical reactions. Aluminum in contact or proximity to dissimilar metals in the presence of 

moisture will produce a galvanic cell which also leads to an accelerated rate of corrosion. 

• Stainless Steel is recommended for ALL fasteners. It is ideally suited for exterior applications and compatible 

for use in direct contact with aluminum, concrete, dissimilar metals, treated lumber and moisture. Use in 

accordance with the respective manufacturers instruction and within loading specifications. 

• Embedding aluminum into concrete can be executed safely if preventative measures are taken to isolate the 

aluminum from concrete, dissimilar metals and moisture. These precautions will include protecting the 

aluminum from standing water that is in contact with concrete. 

OPTION #1 – Embed the post with an epoxy grout. This type of grout is most commonly packaged in a two 

component cartridge system that is more expensive than traditional cementitious grouts but is easy to use 

will provide adequate isolation and corrosion protection when subjected to moderate service. 

Make dowel connection in base of post prior to embedment. 

Slope the surface of the grout away from the aluminum post to avoid water from gathering at the 

grout/post interface. 

Caulk the aluminum/concrete interface with an aluminum impregnated caulking compound. 

(alumilastic, or equal) 

OPTION #2 – Apply a protective coating to the portion of the post to be embedded into concrete prior to 

grouting in place. Either a cementitious grout –or- an epoxy grout may be used after coating. 

ASPHALT BASED / BITUMINOUS COATING per manufacturer’s instruction. This should provide 

adequate protection when subjected to semi-severe and severe service. 

UNMODIFIED EPOXY CHROMATE PRIMER per manufacturer’s instruction. This should provide 

adequate protection when subjected to semi-severe and severe service. 

ALKYD ZINC CHROMATE PRIMER per manufacturer’s instruction. This should provide adequate 

protection when subjected to moderate service. 

CLEAR URETHANE per manufacturer’s instruction. This should provide adequate protection when 

subjected to dry, light service. 

OPTION #3 - Graft a stainless steel dowel into base of post. This dowel will need to be long enough to 

reinforce the post as well as provide a 6” foot of stainless steel to be embedded into the concrete. When 

installed, the aluminum body of the post should not be in contact with the concrete. A grout cover may be 

implemented to finish the install and conceal the grafted joint in the post.

Assembly & Installation Manual Aluminum Ball Railing Fittings .

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