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Königssee and its Surroundings - Nationalpark Berchtesgaden

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GB<br />

Lake <strong>Königssee</strong> in the heart of<br />

the <strong>Berchtesgaden</strong> National Park<br />

<strong>Königssee</strong> („king’s lake“) <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong><br />

surroundings lie in the activity zone<br />

of the <strong>Berchtesgaden</strong> National<br />

Park, founded in 1978. Boat traffic,<br />

fishing <strong>and</strong> cattle grazing are<br />

among the traditional uses of this<br />

zone. On the other h<strong>and</strong>, in the<br />

neighboring core zone of the park,<br />

the aim is to discourage any human<br />

use of the l<strong>and</strong> whatsoever.<br />

National Park<br />

Activity zone<br />

Core zone<br />

Here, nature’s development is allowed<br />

to take <strong>its</strong> course without interference.<br />

Here one accepts that<br />

forests grow old, decay <strong>and</strong> renew<br />

themselves once again in a natural<br />

way. It is a unique show of nature<br />

that we can no longer witness<br />

as spectators in our commercially<br />

used forests today.<br />

A Fjord-like lake in<br />

Central Europe<br />

The <strong>Königssee</strong> valley was created<br />

along a natural break in the rock.<br />

A river chiseled <strong>its</strong> way into it,<br />

<strong>Königssee</strong><br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong><br />

<strong>Surroundings</strong><br />

Ramsau<br />

Free State of Bavaria<br />

Schönau<br />

am <strong>Königssee</strong><br />

<strong>Königssee</strong><br />

<strong>Berchtesgaden</strong><br />

forming a V shaped valley. It obtained<br />

<strong>its</strong> present shape during the<br />

ice ages: a mighty glacier of up to<br />

1000 m in height that stretched far<br />

into the alpine foothills chiseled out<br />

a U or trough shaped valley with a<br />

200 m deep basin. The melting glacier<br />

filled the bowl with water, resulting<br />

in the creation of a large lake.<br />

Another glacier, formed toward<br />

the end of the last ice age, caused<br />

the moraine that separates Obersee<br />

from <strong>Königssee</strong> today. The<br />

large boulders seen along the path<br />

between the two lakes, originate<br />

from a rock slide that occurred in<br />

1172.<br />

A lake with<br />

rare types of fish<br />

Lying in the heart of a largely undeveloped<br />

high mountain terrain,<br />

<strong>Königssee</strong> is one of Germany’s<br />

cleanest lakes. In order to ensure<br />

the good quality of the water, the<br />

sewage from the restaurants at St.<br />

Bartholomew <strong>and</strong> Salet, is piped<br />

under lake <strong>Königssee</strong> to the public<br />

sewage plant. Since 1909, the pas-<br />

The high mountain pastures<br />

around <strong>Königssee</strong><br />

In the immediate surroundings of<br />

<strong>Königssee</strong> <strong>and</strong> Obersee lie the<br />

cattle pastures („Alm“ in German)<br />

of Salet <strong>and</strong> Fischunkel, where<br />

cows graze during the summer<br />

months. Because the steep slope<br />

around the lake prevents any passage<br />

on foot, the cows are transported<br />

over the lake on barges<br />

to their summer pastures in the<br />

spring <strong>and</strong> then returned again<br />

in the autumn. It is interesting to<br />

note that both „mountain pastures“<br />

actually lie lower than the farms in<br />

which the cows winter.<br />

Centuries-old<br />

pasture rights<br />

A total of 25 cattle pastures are to<br />

be found within the activity zone of<br />

the National Park. The most extensive<br />

pasture area is found in the<br />

heights to the east of <strong>Königssee</strong><br />

between the Jenner mountain <strong>and</strong><br />

Obersee.<br />

Fallen-down huts, thickets of tall<br />

shrubs <strong>and</strong> sparse woodl<strong>and</strong>s<br />

in today’s protected core zone<br />

reveal that mountain farming <strong>and</strong><br />

forestry was once much more<br />

prevalent.<br />

The l<strong>and</strong> upon which the mountain<br />

pasture huts are built, is the property<br />

of the Free State of Bavaria.<br />

The farmer owns certain pasture<br />

rights that determine the pasture<br />

area, the type of animal <strong>and</strong> number<br />

allowed, as well as the grazing<br />

period. In some cases, the right is<br />

given to remove shrubs <strong>and</strong> young<br />

trees from the open meadows. Today,<br />

mostly young cows are led up<br />

to the pastures <strong>and</strong> only seldom is<br />

cheese <strong>and</strong> butter made up on the<br />

„Alm“. A special event that takes<br />

place every year in the autumn is<br />

the „Almabtrieb“ or transhumance<br />

senger boats of the „Bayerische<br />

Seenschifffahrt“ have been operated<br />

with electric motors. Due to the<br />

lack of nutrients, <strong>Königssee</strong>’s plant<br />

<strong>and</strong> animal life is limited, although<br />

rare types of fish, such as sea saibling<br />

<strong>and</strong> lake trout can be found<br />

here. Brook saibling, brook trout,<br />

perch <strong>and</strong> pike are also found in<br />

the lake. The green hue of the lake<br />

is due to small particles of limestone<br />

that break the sunlight.<br />

(the return of the cows to their winter<br />

quarters). If the summer up in<br />

the pastures has gone well, the<br />

cows are beautifully decorated<br />

before descending to the valley.<br />

The traditional headpiece called a<br />

„Fuikl“, is made from a pine wreath<br />

crown on which colorful dyed<br />

wood shavings are woven into<br />

rosettes.<br />

Woodl<strong>and</strong> grazing<br />

as a native use<br />

Every alpine pasture has a grazing<br />

area free of trees, as well as a<br />

wooded grazing zone. Because<br />

the cows nibble young trees <strong>and</strong><br />

cause damage with their hoofs, the<br />

National Park administration endeavors<br />

to resolve the problem of<br />

forest grazing rights on a voluntary<br />

basis.<br />

Plants<br />

Because of the difference in elevation<br />

of over 2000 m between the<br />

valley <strong>and</strong> the highest peaks, the<br />

<strong>Berchtesgaden</strong> National Park is exceptionally<br />

abundant in plant species.<br />

Of the numerous types of<br />

plant <strong>and</strong> animal life that coexist in<br />

correlation to one another, several<br />

are particularly easy to observe in<br />

the <strong>Königssee</strong> area.<br />

The sycamore is one of our most<br />

majestic trees. It is easy to recognize<br />

by <strong>its</strong> 5-pointed leaves <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong><br />

scaly bark, often covered with<br />

ferns, moss <strong>and</strong> lichens. The base<br />

of the branches can even collect<br />

humus where shrubs or even small<br />

trees can take root. Fine examples<br />

of this can be found on the beautiful<br />

old sycamore trees that grace<br />

the area around Obersee. These<br />

trees can live up to 600 years.<br />

Animals<br />

Marmots make their homes in the<br />

alpine meadows above the tree line.<br />

Thanks to the clearing of woodl<strong>and</strong><br />

areas for grazing, they could<br />

also inhabit lower regions. They<br />

True to <strong>its</strong> name the hirsute alpine<br />

rose with <strong>its</strong> hairy leaves <strong>and</strong> red<br />

flowers is native to woodl<strong>and</strong> clearings<br />

<strong>and</strong> open ground. In point of<br />

fact it is not a rose at all but belongs<br />

to the rhododendron plants.<br />

It is interesting to note that, though<br />

it is a typical high mountain plant,<br />

Funtenseetauern<br />

9<br />

8<br />

live in colonies or in family groups.<br />

Their food consists of grasses <strong>and</strong><br />

herbs. These animals use underground<br />

burrows as living, sleeping<br />

<strong>and</strong> hibernation quarters. During<br />

the winter months the marmots<br />

block off their dwellings <strong>and</strong> go into<br />

hibernation, living off their reserves<br />

of fat.<br />

One can best observe marmots at<br />

the mountain pastures – „Alms“ –<br />

of Königsbach, Königsberg <strong>and</strong><br />

Gotzen. One can hear their warning<br />

whistle from far away.<br />

Presumably not native to the<br />

region, ibex were introduced to the<br />

area of Röth, high above Obersee<br />

in 1937. Today one finds them around<br />

the Kahlersberg <strong>and</strong> Teufelshörner<br />

regions in the border zone<br />

between Bavaria <strong>and</strong> Austria.<br />

Schönfeldspitze<br />

Obersee<br />

13<br />

Gotzenalm<br />

12<br />

the alpine rose is sensitive to extreme<br />

cold. For this reason it is found<br />

only in areas protected in winter by<br />

a thick layer of snow. During the<br />

alpine rose’s blooming period in<br />

June <strong>and</strong> July, the south face of<br />

Mount Jenner looks like it is covered<br />

with red cushions.<br />

The „brown“ gentian with <strong>its</strong> blue,<br />

bell-shaped flower, is found from<br />

the National Park’s valleys all the<br />

way up to <strong>its</strong> alpine meadows.<br />

10<br />

1<br />

14<br />

13<br />

12 7<br />

P<br />

3<br />

Jenner<br />

Steinernes Meer<br />

Funtensee<br />

Boat traffic course<br />

3<br />

17<br />

2<br />

4<br />

15<br />

Jennerbahn<br />

16<br />

<strong>Königssee</strong><br />

Info<br />

5 6<br />

7 8<br />

2<br />

P<br />

9<br />

14<br />

10<br />

Kühroint<br />

1<br />

6<br />

15<br />

4<br />

Info<br />

Due to their limited living space<br />

<strong>and</strong> food supply, the number of<br />

ibex is maintained at around 60 to<br />

80, without needing to hunt them.<br />

For this reason they are not very<br />

shy around humans <strong>and</strong> can be<br />

observed from close up.<br />

This, however, required hours of<br />

hiking up into the higher climes of<br />

the National Park.<br />

Hundstod<br />

Watzmann<br />

11<br />

Grünstein<br />

Schönau a. <strong>Königssee</strong><br />

However, it is not the roots of this<br />

flower that are used to produce the<br />

gentian br<strong>and</strong>y but rather the<br />

tall-growing spotted gentian. The<br />

gentian distilling huts at Priesbergalm,<br />

at Röth or at Funtensee<br />

testify to this practice. The edelweiss<br />

comes originally from the Himalayas<br />

<strong>and</strong> has immigrated to the<br />

Alps over the past two million<br />

years. What makes this plant so<br />

attractive is <strong>its</strong> high, furry, white<br />

11<br />

16<br />

5<br />

P<br />

The sea saibling found in <strong>Königssee</strong><br />

feeds on tiny animals. When<br />

spawing, <strong>its</strong> belly <strong>and</strong> fins are<br />

colored bright red. Served smoked,<br />

saiblin is a fine delicacy.<br />

Our largest native raven species is<br />

the common raven <strong>and</strong> can often<br />

be viewed showing off <strong>its</strong> flight<br />

acrobatics in the higher regions<br />

of the National Park. Depending on<br />

leaves that form a star. The actual<br />

flower is formed by the small yellow<br />

parts in the center. Its white<br />

hair helps the plant reduce evaporation<br />

due to sun <strong>and</strong> wind, thus<br />

protecting <strong>its</strong>elf from drying out.<br />

Formerly the edelweiss was a common<br />

meadow flower above the<br />

alpine tree line. Man’s lack of respect<br />

for nature has led to <strong>its</strong> extinction<br />

in many places. It is now<br />

found only in crannies <strong>and</strong> unreachable<br />

rock faces.<br />

1 17<br />

Mountain huts<br />

<strong>and</strong> inns<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

16<br />

National border<br />

National park border<br />

Hiking paths <strong>and</strong><br />

mountain trails<br />

Cable-car<br />

National Park<br />

Information Point<br />

Highlights<br />

Gotzenalm<br />

Kärlingerhaus<br />

Riemannhaus<br />

Ingolstädter Haus<br />

Watzmannhaus<br />

Kührointhütte<br />

Dr.-Hugo-Beck-Haus<br />

Schneibsteinhaus<br />

Karl v. Stahlhaus<br />

Saletalm<br />

Grünsteinhütte<br />

Mitterkaseralm/Jenner<br />

Königsbachalm<br />

Jenner Berggaststätte<br />

St. Bartholomä<br />

Mitterkaseralm/Watzmann<br />

Publishing details:<br />

Bavarian State Ministry of Environmental Issues<br />

<strong>and</strong> Health – Published by: National Park Administration<br />

<strong>Berchtesgaden</strong>, Doktorberg 6, D-83471<br />

<strong>Berchtesgaden</strong>, Germany, Tel: +49(0)8652 /<br />

9686-0, Fax: +49(0)86 52 / 968640 – E-Mail:<br />

poststelle@npv-bgd.bayern.de – Internet: www.<br />

nationalpark-berchtesgaden.de – Text: J. Seidenschwarz,<br />

National Park Administration – English<br />

translation: David Harper, <strong>Berchtesgaden</strong> –<br />

Photos: W. Eisenkopf, A. Hafner <strong>and</strong> K. Wagner,<br />

National Park Administration – Panoramic map:<br />

W. Krabichler – Layout: N. Hasenknopf &<br />

GL-Werbestudio – Printed by Plenk, <strong>Berchtesgaden</strong><br />

– 6th edition 2011.<br />

Printed on environmentally friendly paper.<br />

the situation, <strong>its</strong> call varies from<br />

a deep „grog“ to „kark“ or „kroko“.<br />

It likes to use rock walls to build<br />

<strong>its</strong> nest. Another good flyer is <strong>its</strong><br />

smaller relative the alpine chough.<br />

One ca nobserve them up close<br />

on mountain peaks <strong>and</strong> around<br />

mountain huts. Its yellow beak is<br />

unmistakable.<br />

S I G H T S O F I N T E R E S T<br />

1 City of „Schönau am<br />

<strong>Königssee</strong>“<br />

Located directly at the lakeside of<br />

lake <strong>Königssee</strong>. From here the<br />

electrically driven boats start to the<br />

peninsula of St. Bartholomew.<br />

2 Malerwinkel<br />

Due to <strong>its</strong> beauty the <strong>Berchtesgaden</strong><br />

area was already popular<br />

with l<strong>and</strong>scape artists in the early<br />

19th century. Many of them favored<br />

Malerwinkel, the „painter’s corner“.<br />

3 Close to nature:<br />

mixed mountain forest<br />

Former forestry work strongly altered<br />

the lower forests in today’s<br />

National Park. The native mixed<br />

mountain forest of beech, sycamore,<br />

fir <strong>and</strong> spruce were replaced<br />

by spruce woods alone.<br />

In comparison, the forests on the<br />

steep slopes around <strong>Königssee</strong> are<br />

more natural. Wood was also cut<br />

here up until 1960 but the sheerness<br />

of the terrain hindered deforestation.<br />

Native trees were able to<br />

grow back on their own.<br />

4 Peninsula of St. Bartholomew<br />

The church <strong>and</strong> restaurant of St.<br />

Bartholomew are built on a delta<br />

jutting out into the lake. For the<br />

past 10,000 years it has built up<br />

through the weathering of Mount<br />

Watzmann’s cliffs.<br />

5 The Pilgrimage Church<br />

of St. Bartholomew<br />

The first „Basilica at Künigsee“ was<br />

consecrated in 1134. Romanesque<br />

in essence, it underwent renovation<br />

work in the Baroque style in<br />

1698 <strong>and</strong> 1710.<br />

The church is the destination of a<br />

traditional pilgrimage that starts in<br />

Maria Alm, Austria, <strong>and</strong> crosses<br />

„Steinernes Meer“.<br />

6 National Park Information<br />

Point at St. Bartholomew<br />

The information point is located in a<br />

historical forester’s hut. The exhibition’s<br />

theme focuses on nature’s<br />

constant change: processes that<br />

are paricularly easy to observe in<br />

the core zone of the National Park.<br />

In summer it is open daily.<br />

7 Wildlife feeding station<br />

To leave nature to <strong>its</strong>elf is the basic<br />

philosophy of a national park. This<br />

has <strong>its</strong> lim<strong>its</strong> however, due to the<br />

relatively small size of our National<br />

Park. The red deer’s natural wintering<br />

areas in the foothills have disappeared<br />

due to settling, road building,<br />

farming <strong>and</strong> forestry. It is thus<br />

replaced thanks to the feeding<br />

stations at St. Bartholomew <strong>and</strong> at<br />

Reitl on the opposite shore.<br />

8 Avalanches: natural dynamics<br />

A massive avalanche slipped down<br />

the Kleiner Watzmann in February<br />

1999, laying some 8 hectares of forest<br />

flat. A large number of the trees<br />

was not uprooted by the snow <strong>its</strong>elf<br />

but by the air pressure. In accordance<br />

with the National Park’s aims<br />

the h<strong>and</strong> of man did not intervene:<br />

the trees were left to lie. The forest<br />

will grow again without the help of<br />

man. The first young trees are already<br />

growing thanks to the already<br />

existing seedlings <strong>and</strong> to natural<br />

seed flight.<br />

9 Chapel of St. John<br />

<strong>and</strong> St. Paul<br />

The chapel was erected in high<br />

gothic style from 1617 to 1620, at a<br />

time when the baroque style had<br />

already taken over elsewhere. It is<br />

probably located at a former pagan<br />

shrine.<br />

10 The Ice Chapel<br />

The so-called ice chapel „Eiskapelle“<br />

is made of avalanche snow from<br />

the Watzmann’s east face through<br />

which the melting snow washes out<br />

a large opening in summer. Due to<br />

the fact that the ice <strong>and</strong> snow can<br />

collapse without warning at any<br />

time, climbing on or walking into<br />

the chapel is extremely dangerous.<br />

11 Mount Watzmann<br />

The <strong>Berchtesgaden</strong> National Park’s<br />

highest point is the Watzmann summit<br />

at 2713 m. Its eastern face with<br />

1800 m of sheer rock wall is the<br />

highest cliff in the Eastern Alps.<br />

Legend has it that a cruel king, his<br />

wife <strong>and</strong> seven children were<br />

turned to stone in the Watzmann<br />

Massif.<br />

12 Mount Jenner<br />

The Jenner, boasting a cable-car,<br />

offers magnificent views onto the<br />

National Park. Originally the Jenner<br />

was forested nearly up to <strong>its</strong> peak<br />

as scattered spruce near the summit<br />

still testify. The felling of trees<br />

<strong>and</strong> alpine grazing created today’s<br />

open l<strong>and</strong>scape covered with sparse<br />

grass, fields of dwarf pine <strong>and</strong> a<br />

scattering of thickets.<br />

13 Gotzenalm, Feuerpalfen<br />

High above <strong>Königssee</strong> lies Gotzenalm,<br />

first mentioned in the 8th century.<br />

This open pasture l<strong>and</strong> hosts arnica<br />

<strong>and</strong> spotted gentian flowers. Nearby,<br />

the sparse spruce growth is<br />

typical of woods that are used for<br />

grazing. The lookout point at nearby<br />

Feuerpalfen offers a magnificent<br />

view of <strong>Königssee</strong>.<br />

14 Kühroint, Archenkanzel<br />

Similar to Gotzenalm, the pasture<br />

huts at Kührointalm are perched on<br />

a plateau high above <strong>Königssee</strong>.<br />

South of this pasture, the Archenkanzel<br />

point offers a lovely view<br />

onto <strong>Königssee</strong>.<br />

15 National Park Information<br />

Point at Kühroint<br />

This information point is open daily<br />

during the season, depending on<br />

the business hours of the Kühroint<br />

hut.<br />

16 Funtensee<br />

Funtensee is located in a dolina, a<br />

funnel-shaped depression caused<br />

by the caving in of a grotto. Cattle<br />

was driven up to the Funtensee<br />

pasture up until 1962. The area is<br />

now included in the activity-free<br />

core zone of the National Park. The<br />

surrounding stone pine woods are<br />

somewhat of a botanical highlight.<br />

17 Steinernes Meer<br />

The Steinernes Meer (stony sea) is<br />

marked by barren <strong>and</strong> therefore<br />

impressive high alpine l<strong>and</strong>scapes.<br />

Its name comes from <strong>its</strong> wavelike<br />

surface made of rock that was deposited<br />

at the bottom of the sea<br />

some 200 million years ago, as<br />

shown by fossilized shells. Apart<br />

from caves <strong>and</strong> dolinas, one finds<br />

deep cuts in the rock, created<br />

by rain <strong>and</strong> melting snow over<br />

thous<strong>and</strong>s of years.


Flyer <strong>Königssee</strong>_e_04/2011 18.04.2011 14:49 Uhr Seite 2<br />

St. Bartholomew with Watzmann East Face. Photo K. Wagner, NPV

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