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72 WHAT TO SEE<br />
Toy Museum (Museum hraček) B-1, Praha 1, Jiřská<br />
6, tel. (+420) 224 37 22 94, www.muzeumhracek.<br />
cz. The unfortunate thing about most toy museums is<br />
that children tend not to enjoy them. For the most part, the<br />
experience is too frustrating because all the cool toys are<br />
kept just out of reach by a pane of glass. However, all is not<br />
lost; the second floor has switches at children's level which<br />
make the displays of stuffed animals jostle about. QOpen<br />
09:30 - 17:30. Admission 20 - 40Kč.<br />
Landmarks<br />
Funicular Railway A-4,<br />
Újezd tram stop. The funicular<br />
runs up Petřin Hill<br />
providing beautiful views of<br />
Prague and the castle. There<br />
are two restaurants sitting at<br />
the half-way point - there is<br />
a station there. Use regular<br />
20Kč tickets. Trams run at<br />
15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20.<br />
Gestapo HQ I-4, Praha 1, Politických věznů 20. This<br />
sombre black building is now the headquarters of the Czech<br />
Trade Office, but between 1939-1945 this was the most<br />
feared buildings in the city. Jews and Czechs alike were<br />
brought here and interrogated. <strong>In</strong> one particular incident on<br />
Nov 24, 1939 the Gestapo executed 120 students accused<br />
of anti-Nazi plotting. Their deaths are commemorated by a<br />
small statue on the corner of the building.<br />
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1, tel. (+420) 222<br />
22 08 79, www.klementinum.com. The Klementinum<br />
offers a little something for everyone: Beautiful views from<br />
the astronomical tower; Baroque architecture in the library<br />
hall and classical musical concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The<br />
building dates back to 1232 and currently houses the National<br />
Library, as well as 12 hard to find sundials. Guided tours are<br />
held daily. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Náměstí Míru J-5/6,<br />
MNám. Míru. <strong>In</strong> Czech this<br />
means Peace Square and it is<br />
dominated by a soaring twotower<br />
basilica, the neo-gothic<br />
Saint Ludmila Church (Kostel sv.<br />
Ludmily). This beautiful church<br />
was constructed from 1888 to<br />
1893 and bears the creative<br />
power of many renowned artists,<br />
including sculptor Josef Václav<br />
Myslbek, who also fashioned the<br />
statue of St. Wenceslas. Ludmila<br />
(860 - 921) was born in Mělník<br />
and baptised, probably by St. Methodius, in 871. After her<br />
husband died their son assumed the throne and had two sons<br />
with his pagan wife Drahomíra; Boleslav and Wenceslas, the<br />
latter later to become the patron saint of the Czech Republic.<br />
Ludmila was strangled at the hand or the behest of Drahomíra<br />
who resented her meddling with the budding Christian, Wenceslas.<br />
She is celebrated on 16 September and is patron to,<br />
among others, converts, widows and those with problematic<br />
in-laws… Náměstí Míru (green line A) is the deepest of Prague's<br />
metro stations and as such has one of the longest escalators in<br />
Europe - 87m long with a vertical span of 43m - without walking,<br />
it takes over 2 minutes to ascend/descend. The park hosts<br />
many festivals including the late September burčák festival and<br />
the Christmas market. The square has an almost starring role<br />
in the 2006 remake of cult horror classic, The Omen.<br />
National Memorial (Národní památník) K-3, Praha<br />
3, Na Vrchu Žižkově. One of the largest equestrian statues<br />
in the world dominates the hill overlooking the north eastern<br />
district of Žižkov. The 16.5 ton statue commemorates the<br />
Hussite hero, Jan Žižka. Behind the statue is the national<br />
mausoleum, built originally as a memorial to World War I<br />
Czechoslovak legions, and then taken over as the resting<br />
place for the great and the not very good Communists. The<br />
first working class president, Klement Gottwald, was pickled<br />
in slivovice and put on display here. Unfortunately the preservation<br />
was not wholly successful and the body started to<br />
putrefy from the feet up, shocking the odd visiting school<br />
party as their national hero literally started to fall apart before<br />
their very eyes. His body was returned to his family in 1990<br />
and later buried in the cemetery in Olšanské.<br />
Petřín Tower (Petřínská rozhledna)<br />
A-4, MPetřin funicular,<br />
tel. (+420) 257 32 01 12. At the<br />
top of Petřin Hill stands a 60m-high<br />
bad copy of the Eiffel Tower, affording<br />
great views of the city. The building<br />
was completed in May 20, 1891.<br />
An alternative route to the castle is<br />
to ride the funky funicular up Petřín<br />
Hill and walk pass the tower across<br />
to the castle area. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00. Open Sat & Sun 10:00 -<br />
17:00. Admission 50/40/10Kč.<br />
The Dancing House (Tančící dům) G-5, Praha 2,<br />
Rašínovo nábř. 80. Frank Gehry's design for this building<br />
was inspired by the dancing team Ginger Rogers and Fred<br />
Astaire. Built in 1996, this structure more than cuts a swathe<br />
among the Austrian-Hungarian terrace blocks that make up<br />
most of Prague.<br />
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3,<br />
Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiřího<br />
z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 267<br />
00 57 78, fax (+420) 222<br />
72 40 14, www.tower.cz.<br />
This huge silver tower with<br />
funny-looking boxes attached<br />
to it was built between 1985<br />
and 1992. Swift lifts whisk you<br />
to a fantastic panorama of the<br />
city, then descend a few floors<br />
to dine whilst contemplating<br />
the intricacies of vertigo. The<br />
scary black babies crawling<br />
all over the tower are an art<br />
installation by David Černy that became permanent. And<br />
now the tower is lit up in rather fetching hues of pink and<br />
purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Admission<br />
150/120Kč.<br />
Parks & Gardens<br />
Botanical Gardens (Botanická zahrada) Praha<br />
7, Nádvorní 134, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420)<br />
234 14 81 11, www.botgarden.cz. An outdoor section<br />
with vineyard, chapel, bonsai, a Japanese Zen garden,<br />
greenhouses and wonderful views of the city. A little<br />
further up the hill is the Fata Morgana greenhouse<br />
exhibiting desert, high sierra and tropical plants in a<br />
realistic setting. Residents include butterflies, moths,<br />
frogs and greenery galore. Bus N°112 from the metro<br />
station. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Fata Morgana closed<br />
Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.<br />
Prague <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> prague.inyourpocket.com<br />
Kampa Park G-4, Kampa Island. Featuring a well-equipped<br />
children's playground, Kampa Park is caressed by water<br />
on all sides thanks to the millstream known as the Devil's<br />
Stream. The park is notable for its serenity in the midst of<br />
the centre, and is popular with couples, the local and expat<br />
hippy population, as well as families enjoying the playground.<br />
You can also feed the ducks or visit one of the cafés. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Letná, MHradčanská. Massive park high atop the Vltava<br />
and pinpointed by the often-static metronome where once<br />
a massive statue of Joe Stalin stood. Biking/skating paths<br />
galore, skateboarders, playing fields, tennis courts, kids<br />
playground, beer garden and more. Fabulous outdoor spot.<br />
Ostrov Štvanice J-2, Praha 7. The largest island in the<br />
Prague stretch of the Vltava is occupied by the oldest ice<br />
hockey stadium in Prague, a tennis stadium, a skate park<br />
and has outdoor film screenings in the summer.<br />
Petřín A-3/4. With stunning views of the city and a choice<br />
of gardens and trails to explore, Petřín is packed with activites<br />
or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a mirror<br />
hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church and Prague's<br />
lovers enjoying ... ah, the view.<br />
Troja Chateau Praha 7, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží<br />
Holešovice, tel. (+420) 283 85 16 14, www.citygalleryprague.cz.<br />
A grand 17th century summer palace built<br />
for Count Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens<br />
littered with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the<br />
Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situated<br />
here to be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now<br />
Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian<br />
bridge, but be warned it is no short walk. Admission 120/60Kč<br />
for the gallery inside, gardens free. From the metro, hop on<br />
tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Valdštejnská zahrada<br />
B-1/2, MMalostranská.<br />
The Wallenstein Gardens<br />
may have a lot of rules, but<br />
the lack of human and canine<br />
detritus adds to their beauty.<br />
Famous for the peacocks,<br />
the cavern-like folly (look<br />
for phallic and serpentine<br />
motifs) and the biggest fish we've seen in a while - ducklings<br />
often have to make a sharp exit to avoid being nibbled. An<br />
owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore for whiling away<br />
sunny afternoons. Look for the secret entrance next to the<br />
metro exit.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. G<br />
Zoo Praha Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 3, MNádraží<br />
Holešovice, tel. (+420) 296 11 21 11, www.zoopraha.<br />
cz. Zoo Praha is a really cool zoo. Following the floods of<br />
2002 (in which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life<br />
that was broadcast round the world) many improvements<br />
to infrastructure and the animal's homes have been made.<br />
Big ones, like elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted,<br />
but don't miss the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes,<br />
parrots, wolves and hyenas. Recent additions have included<br />
an <strong>In</strong>donesian Jungle and the just opened (04/2008) pavilion<br />
for a group of rare <strong>In</strong>dian crocodiles. Seven young Gavil crocs<br />
are now at home here - the only European zoo to house this<br />
critically endangered specie. Zoo officials hope they'll settle<br />
in nicely and reproduce. That's another special aspect of<br />
the Zoo Praha - their conservation efforts. The facility was<br />
instrumental in preventing the extinction of Przewalski horses<br />
in the ‘60's and hopes to have similar success with the<br />
prague.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHAT TO SEE<br />
Gavils. Additional highlights include the Gorilla Pavilion and<br />
African Jungle. Definitely the place to come to if you have<br />
little ones in tow - there's an excellent petting zoo and kids<br />
play area. A train ride through the zoo, a chair lift ride above<br />
the zoo or wagon-like vehicles for the kids are available for<br />
tired tootsies. Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good<br />
visit, even on warm days.<br />
The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 hectares<br />
and is home to nearly 5,000 animals. Concession stands<br />
shockingly don't jack up the prices, so an entire day can easily<br />
be spent here. Take bus N°112 from metro station Nádraží<br />
Holešovice or even stretch your legs further and walk across<br />
the Vltava River via the footbridge from Stromovka park.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. March 09:00-17:00, Apr, May, Sep, Oct<br />
- 09:00-18:00, Jun, Jul, Aug- 09:00-19:00, Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb -<br />
09:00-16:00 Admission 150/100Kč. TA6ULBKC<br />
Walking & Bike Tours<br />
City Walks, tel. (+420) 608 20 09 12/(+420) 222 24<br />
45 31, www.praguer.com. For 450Kč you can take the<br />
four hour <strong>In</strong>sider Tour of the city including Staroměstská,<br />
Nové Město, Josefov, Malá Strana and Prague Castle. The<br />
tour also provides complimentary refreshments and a ride<br />
on the funicular. Tours begin daily at the statue at the top of<br />
Václavské nám. at 09:45 and 13:30.<br />
Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. (+420)<br />
281 91 76 42/(+420) 603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz.<br />
These cool cats will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000Kč,<br />
less if you are a student, and introduce you to various aspects<br />
of Prague. The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical<br />
Clock at the blue umbrella.<br />
Prague Travel Praha 2, Vinohradská 28, tel. (+420)<br />
222 51 60 64/(+420) 777 07 07 84, fax (+420) 222 52<br />
05 73, www.praguetravel.cz. Several themed umbrella-led<br />
walks starting at the Astronomical clock at various times; just<br />
look for the orange umbrella. Go for a short tour of the city<br />
centre or on the 6-hour megawalk. Prices from 200 - 1,000Kč.<br />
Real Tour I-5, tel. (+420) 602 45 94 81, www.walkingtoursprague.com.<br />
Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the<br />
four-hour, 300Kč Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30 at the<br />
horse statue at the top of Václavské nám. The walk includes a<br />
break at a pub and ends at the castle. Pick-ups at 12:00 from<br />
the Traveller's Hostel on Dlouhá and the Clown and Bard. Walks<br />
on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat only. NB, no tours from 20 - 31 Oct.<br />
October - November 2009<br />
73