Through Four Seasons' Eyes Budapest - IMEX America

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
Gresham palace
1
Budapest
Through Four Seasons' Eyes

2
Budapest
Through Four Seasons' Eyes
A definitive guide to the capital and its hidden treasures

4
Welcome to the Four Seasons Hotel
Gresham Palace!
et at the foot of the majestic Chain Bridge,
the Gresham Palace came to life with great
fanfare in 1906, under the skillful hands of
Hungarian architect Zsigmond Quittner.
He was commissioned by the London-based
Gresham Life Assurance Company to design
a grand edifice which would house the firm’s
offices and several luxury residences. The
building mirrored the opulent and undulating
style of Secessionism, an architectural
movement rooted in the Viennese avant-garde
and similar to Art Nouveau.
As with many palatial buildings in Budapest,
the Gresham Palace fell into a state of
disrepair during World War II and remained
so throughout the communist era until it was

5
acquired by Gresco Investments Limited in
1998. A team of gifted artisans from wroughtiron
specialists to stained-glass makers,
ceramists and mosaicists were assembled
to restore the beautiful workmanship of the
original craftsmen. Gyula Jungfer created the
front gates and peacock motifs; Géza Maróti
designed the façade; Miksa Róth, renowned
for the stained glass in many of Budapest’s
Secessionist buildings, constructed the
glasswork; and the Zsolnay Ceramics Factory
was responsible for the radiant tiles.
The hotel opened its doors in 2004 under
the management of Four Seasons Hotels and
Resorts and quickly became a prominent
landmark on Budapest’s urban landscape.
When visitors enter the ornate wrought-iron
gates, they are overwhelmed by the beauty of
the large T-shaped lobby, adorned with detailed
ironwork, stained glass and marble. The
sinuous patterns of the white-and-black mosaic
f loor wind towards the ‘Tumbling Dolls’, a
sculpture in three parts by contemporary
Armenian artist Mamikon Yengibarian.
Suspended below the atrium’s glass cupola is
a custom-designed Preciosa chandelier made
from hundreds of hand-shaped crystals – its
light spilling onto the awe-inspiring scene. A
warm greeting from hotel staff, and you feel as
though you have truly arrived!

6
Contents
8
Budapest:
32
District by
District
The Mighty Danube 10-13
Castle Hill, Víziváros & Turkish
Budapest 14-17
Andrássy út & City Park 18-23
The Jewish Quarter
& Inner City 24-27
District V & District XIII 28-31
Budapest: A Walk
Through History
Draw Back the Iron Curtain 34-37
Budapest’s Beautiful Baths 38-41
Café Culture 42-45
46
Trips Out of Town
Lake Balaton 48-51
Szentendre 52-55
Regional Vintages 56-59
60 Tailor-made
Experiences
Equestrian Adventures 62-65
Wine Bars 66-67
Gourmet Tour of Budapest 68-69
Gallery Tours 70-71
In the Studio 72-73
Learn to Cook 74-75
Personal Shoppers:
Fashion 76-77
Personal Shoppers:
Antiques 78-79
Architectural Tours:
Budapest 80-83
Architectural Tours:
Dunaújváros 84-85
86Child’s Play
Interactive Concerts 88-89
Backstage at the Zoo 90-93

94Best of Budapest
Fashion: Hungarian
Designers 96-97
Fashion: International
Brands 98-99
Fashion: Shoes
& Accessories 100-101
Fashion: Jewelry 102-103
Antiques 104-105
Music & Books 106-107
Just for Kids 108-109
Homewares & Interior
Design 110-111
Galleries 112-113
Museums 114-117
Monuments 118-121
Food & Drink 122-123
Bars & Cafés 124-127
Restaurants:
Traditional 128-129
Restaurants: Gourmet
& Progressive 130-131
Restaurants:
International 132-133
Classical Music Venues: 134-135
Wine Bars 136-137
Nightlife 138-139
140Calendar of Events
Glossary of terms
cukrászda: cake shop
flódni: dense layered pastry
híd: bridge
kávéház: coffee house
kert: garden or garden bar
korzó: promenade
krémes: custard cream pastry
mangalica: Hungarian breed of hog
pálinka: schnapps
piac: market
pogácsa: savory scone
rétes: Hungarian strudel
romkocsma: 'ruin bar'
sólet: baked beans
tér: square
utca, út: street, road
7

8
Budapest
District by District
Explore the beautiful hills of Buda or experience the vibrant
culture of Pest in a city that offers you the best of both worlds

10
The Mighty Danube
Stroll its banks or hop on a pleasure cruise
s the Danube winds from deep within
the Black Forest all the way to the Black
Sea, it passes through four European capitals,
Budapest being third in its course. Although
the Danube’s role in everyday city life may
not be as vital as it once was, its beauty is still
breathtaking, particularly at dusk as the city’s
bridges and buildings light up and spill a warm
glow onto the water’s surface.
Budapest’s bridges
The peaceful hills of Buda and the flat
metropolis of Pest are intersected by the
Danube, which is spanned by eight bridges
within the city limits. But there was a time
when crossing this vast and fast flowing
waterway posed an enormous challenge.
That was until Count István Széchenyi, the
Chain Bridge’s namesake, commissioned an

11
Englishman in the mid-19th century to build a
bridge that would connect Buda and Pest. Over
the next 50 years, three more bridges were built,
only to be destroyed by retreating Nazis at the
end of World War II.
Margaret Island & Parliament
Some of the city’s most beautiful parks can be
found at the center of the river on Margaret
Island (Margitsziget), accessible from Margaret
Bridge (Margit híd). This car-free oasis features
225 acres of lush greenery, manicured parkland,
two large swimming complexes, a musical
fountain, the ruins of a 13th-century church
and convent, and atmospheric garden bars, such
as the Holdudvar. Enjoy a thirst-quenching
lemonade on the large terrace or join the party
on the dancef loor.
As the river f lows southward, it brushes past
the markedly eclectic Parliament building,
which sports everything from neo-Gothic
spires to a neo-Renaissance dome. It features so
much detail, in fact, it took 17,000 man-years to
build. A handful of its 691 rooms can be visited,
including the central hall where the Holy
Crown of Hungary is housed.
Chain Bridge & Danube promenade
Further downstream, the Chain Bridge
(Széchenyi Lánchíd) is Budapest’s finest,

12
although it can scarcely contain the traffic on
its narrow two lanes. It is flanked on the Pest
side by one of the city’s most beautiful examples
of Hungarian Secessionism – the Four Seasons
Hotel Gresham Palace – and on the Buda side
by historic Castle Hill.
The stretch of Pest waterfront beyond here is
known as the Danube Promenade (Duna korzó).
It is a perfect spot for a leisurely stroll and the
setting of many a budding romance. Cafés dot
this section of the waterfront as do a string
of international hotels such as the Marriott,
which is fronted by a slick cocktail lounge
and riverside terrace. Board a boat from the
nearby MAHART terminal at Vigadó tér, and
travel as far upstream as Szentendre, Visegrád,
Esztergom and even Vienna. Or stay within the
city limits and experience what life might have
been like when the city's residents used boats as
the main mode of transport.
Elizabeth Bridge & Gellért Hill
Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsébet híd) is more modern
than its predecessors upstream, given that it
wasn’t rebuilt until 1964 and lost all of its 19thcentury
embellishments in the process. During
the original planning, it was determined that
the Baroque Inner City Parish Church would
have to be demolished but fortunately this was
never carried out. Instead a slight curve at the

13
„The Danube Promenade
is a perfect spot for
a leisurely stroll and
the setting of many a
budding romance
foot of the six-lane bridge circumvents one the
city’s most historically significant buildings.
Towering above the Danube to the south are
the cliffs of leafy Gellért Hill. For some of the
best panoramas of the city, trek up to the Statue
of Liberty (Szabadság szobor), a memorial to
the Soviet Liberators of World War II, or grab
a coffee with a view at the nearby Citadella
Lounge adjacent to the Habsburg-era fortress.
Liberty Bridge
Liberty Bridge (Szabadság Bridge) is the
southernmost of the city’s historic bridges. It
connects Gellért tér with Fővám tér, the site of
the beautifully restored Great Market Hall – the
largest and most elegant of Budapest’s markets.
Rub shoulders with locals on your quest for
paprika and spicy Hungarian sausage or locally
grown fresh produce.
We recommend
● Beautiful vistas of the Danube from
Margaret Bridge
● Fresh lemonade at the Holdudvar terrace
on Margaret Island
● A stroll along the Danube Promenade
● Look-out by the Statue of Liberty
on Gellért Hill
● Shopping at the Great Market Hall

14
Castle Hill, Víziváros & Turkish Budapest
Historic Buda in a day
Castle Hill
Buda may be the city’s more peaceful half,
but this was not always the case. Castle Hill
has succumbed to so many sieges, very little
remains of its original architecture. Faithful
reconstructions of colorful single-story houses,
majestic churches and palatial buildings have
transformed this quarter into the city's prime
tourist destination.
Mongols were among the first to invade, then
came the Turks in the mid-1500s, followed by
the recapturing of Castle Hill 145 years later –
the latter battle leveling most of the remaining
buildings. The district was rebuilt only to
be destroyed during the 1848-49 Uprising
against the Habsburgs and again at the end of
World War II, when Germans took refuge here
from Soviet troops. As reconstruction began,

15
remnants of buildings from the Middle Ages
emerged from beneath the rubble and many of
these details have been preserved as a form of
architectural eclecticism.
The neo-Gothic Matthias Church has also
had its fair share of remodelings, including
a whitewashing of the interior during its 145
years as a Turkish mosque. Nowadays it sports
a polished stone façade, carved gargoyles and a
rooftop of colorful tiles from Hungary’s Zsolnay
Ceramics Factory. Adjacent to the church are
the seven towers of the Fisherman’s Bastion, a
neo-Gothic lookout, which in medieval times
served as a rather weak line of defense guarded
by the guild of fishermen.
Take a break from sightseeing at the nearby
Ruszwurm on Szentháromság utca. This cafécum-cake
shop first opened its doors in 1827
and is still famous for its deliciously creamy
sweets and original cherry-wood fixtures. For
more substantial fare and fine examples of
Hungarian cuisine, stroll along Fortuna utca
to the elegant yet contemporary 21 Magyar
Vendéglő.
The Buda Castle (Royal Palace) comprises the
district’s most striking and substantial cluster
of buildings, a structure that has been rebuilt
so many times since the Middle Ages that
only a small portion of its original foundation
remains. It is currently home to the National

16
„As reconstruction began,
remnants of buildings
from the Middle Ages
emerged from beneath
the rubble
Gallery, the Budapest History Museum and the
Széchényi Library, which contains more than
two million books and Corvinia codices from
the King Mátyás collection. To reach Castle Hill,
ascend the tree-lined footpaths on its eastern
slope or hop on the funicular at Clark Ádám tér.
Víziváros
The neighborhood of Víziváros (Water City) is
set between the Castle District and the banks
of the Danube, and lined with steep streets
which wind around the foot of the hill. Busy
Fő utca leads from the Chain Bridge to one of
the district’s main transport hubs, Batthyány
tér, a major thoroughfare since Roman times.
Dominating the square is the Church of St
Anne, a rich example of Italian Baroque. What’s
remarkable is that it has survived relatively
unscathed after two world wars, a number of
uprisings, major floods and even earthquakes.
Like the Danube Promenade on the Pest
embankment, the nearby stretch of waterfront
is also dotted with cafés and restaurants, such
as the Angelika housed in the former vicarage
of St Anne’s and skirted by a large terrace.
Turkish Budapest
The weathered stone façade and tarnished
copper domes of the original Turkish Király
Baths are an intriguing site in this spa city. The

17
structure is best viewed while bathing inside
its central domed hall, when sunlight filters in
through the small skylights in the ceiling.
Wander past Margaret Bridge to the city’s
most important Turkish monument: the 16thcentury
Tomb of Gül Baba. It can be reached
via a steep cobblestoned street that leads up to
the affluent district of Rózsadomb (Rose Hill).
Gül Baba was a Turkish dervish saint who fell
during the Turkish siege of Budapest in 1541
and who was credited for bringing roses to
Hungary, hence the district’s name. His tomb
is still a place of Islamic pilgrimage. Climb to
the top of the hill for a wonderful panorama of
nearby Margaret Island and Pest.
We recommend
● Hungarian works of art at the National
Gallery
● Ruszwurm for delicious cakes in a historic
setting on Castle Hill
● Tomb of Gül Baba
● Healing waters of the original Turkish
Király Baths
● Terrace with a view at Angelika Restaurant

18
Andrássy út & City Park
From majestic palaces to lush urban parkland
ollowing nearly a decade of exile in Paris,
then Prime Minister Count Gyula Andrássy
was so inspired by the monumental avenues
and thoughtful city planning of the French
capital that he set out to build a road much
grander than any this city had seen before.
Andrássy út, the Hungarian Champs-Élysées,
was designed to connect the city center with
City Park. With its construction in the 1870s
came much of the rebuilding of central
Budapest as we know it today. The second oldest
underground in the world – metro line 1 – runs
below the length of Andrássy út to the outer
edge of the park.
Erzsébet tér to Oktogon
We recommend starting the tour with an
invigorating coffee – or a glass of wine – on the

19
sunny terrace of the Baldaszti’s Grand bar and
restaurant at the southern end of the avenue. As
you wander up Andrássy út, you’ll pass scores
of luxury fashion houses from Gucci to Louis
Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana.
Set back from the row of shops and
commanding great attention is the neo-
Renaissance Hungarian State Opera
House. Built in 1884, it is one of the finest
accomplishments of Hungarian architect
Miklós Ybl, who oversaw the execution of its
most minute details.
If you’ve worked up an appetite, Klassz offers
a tasty selection of contemporary Hungarian
and continental cuisine, as well as fine local
vintages. Or, opt for coffee and cake at the Lotz
Hall, beautifully decorated with ceiling frescoes
and grand chandeliers, hidden away on the
upper level of the Alexandra bookstore. The
nearby tree-lined Liszt Ferenc tér is choc-full of
cafés and restaurants offering al fresco dining
on warm summer evenings and during busy
weekday lunches.
The Villa District
Beyond Oktogon and the Great Ring Road
(Nagykörút), Andrássy út gives way to wider
sidewalks and service roads, and the House
of Terror Museum located in the former
headquarters of the Hungarian Secret

20
Police. Before widening again, the avenue is
intersected by a beautiful circle of buildings at
Kodály körönd. Note the façade of the northwest
block decorated with sgraffito details that have
faded somewhat over the past century. The
circle’s namesake, composer and pedagogue
Zoltán Kodály, resided at Kodály körönd No 89.
His residence is now a memorial museum.
The villas north of here are fronted by leafy
gardens. Kogart House, for example, hosts
contemporary art exhibits and contains a
private collection of Hungarian classics. Take a
seat on its lovely terrace for a delicious midday
meal. Or visit Baraka across the way to savor
unconventional culinary creations.
City Park
Andrássy út is bookended by monumental
Heroes’ Square, where many prominent
characters in the story of Hungary – among
them Hungarian kings and national heroes –
have been immortalized in statue form. The
Kunsthalle gallery of contemporary art is
located on the south end of the square while
the more classical Museum of Fine Arts can
be found on the north. These and most of the
historical buildings within City Park were
built for the Millennium Exhibition of 1896
to celebrate 1,000 years of Magyars settling in
the region. The pretty yellow building across
from Budapest Zoo is the Széchenyi Baths. The

21
„Andrássy út is bookended
by monumental Heroes’
Square, where many
prominent characters in
the story of Hungary have
been immortalized in
statue form
structure speaks volumes about the period’s
architectural eclecticism as well as the nation’s
favorite pastime. While away an afternoon with
a leisurely soak in its healing thermal waters.
Nearby Vajdahunyad Castle, also built for
the millennial celebrations, is a curious
reproduction of buildings found throughout
the former Kingdom of Hungary. It borders
a small lake fed by thermal water from the
Széchenyi Baths, and in winter is transformed
into an outdoor skating rink complete with
lavish new facilities. End your journey with a
visit to Gundel, one of the city’s oldest and most
renowned Hungarian restaurants, operating at
this location since 1910.
We recommend
● A night at the Opera
● Coffee and cake at the Lotz Hall café
● A leisurely soak at the Széchenyi Baths
● Luxury shopping on Andrássy út
● A ride on the world’s second oldest
underground railway

24
The Jewish Quarter
& Inner City
Colorful past and dynamic present
Bar central
Budapest’s Jewish Quarter may be best known
for its synagogues and tragic history, but it has
recently become a prime destination for the
city’s ‘ruin bar’ culture. The area comprises
inner District VII and its many crumbling and
newly refurbished buildings. As temperatures
rise, one derelict structure after another is
transformed into a 'ruin bar,' inspiring a nonstop
festive atmosphere.
The most densely populated nightlife zone
spans the length of Kazinczy utca and much of
the Gozsdu udvar – a large residential complex
built around a network of courtyards at the

25
turn of the previous century. These have been
recently renovated to include several restaurants
and bars at street level. Király utca runs along
the northern edge of the district and comprises
interior-design shops and funky wine and
cocktail bars, such as Kadarka and Minyon.
For original and locally produced souvenirs,
venture into the heart of the district to Printa
Akadémia on Rumbách Sebestyén utca.
Jewish culture
Located at the southwestern corner of the
Jewish Quarter, the Dohány Street Synagogue
features a unusual fusion of Moorish and
Eastern Orthodox elements. It is the second
largest synagogue in Europe and one of
Budapest's most visited sites, particularly
during the Jewish Summer Festival, which
showcases local and international musicians.
The Quarter6Quarter7 festival of music and
Jewish culture is of a more underground
ilk, and takes place at myriad bars and cafés
throughout the district during Hanukkah
celebrations.
Downtown Budapest
Enjoy a bistro-style lunch on the terrace of
the Gerlóczy Café, tucked away on a shaded
square just west of the Jewish Quarter. Or
sample Michelin-starred excellence at Onyx

26
restaurant on Vörösmarty tér where multiple
courses of creative cuisine are served in a lavish
setting. For coffee and cake, the Gerbeaud
Confectionery, just around the corner, presents
visually inspired sweet treats on a large sunny
terrace at the edge of the square.
The pedestrian-only Váci utca, which extends
from the southwestern corner of Vörösmarty
tér, was once a fashionable shopping street
towards the end of 18th century. Nowadays most
of the goods proffered here are folksy knickknacks
and clothing from large international
chains. If you’re looking for more original
mementos, the Rododendron Art & Design
Shop on Semmelweis utca carries one-of-akind
bags, jewelry and artworks. Take in a little
ancient history at newly reconstructed Március
15. tér where the ruins of the Contra Aquincum
– originally built in 296 – have been converted
into an outdoor museum at the center of a
neatly manicured park.
Past busy Kossuth Lajos utca, the urban oasis
of Károlyi kert – a beautiful gated garden –
provides a divine hideaway on sunny afternoons
and is a favorite of local residents. Take a
seat at the nearby historic Centrál Kávéház
for a cappuccino and contemplate what great
Hungarian novel might have been penned at
your very table. More coffee and delicious meals
are served on the sunny terrace of Café Alibi on

27
„As temperatures rise, one
derelict building after
another is transformed
into a 'ruin bar'
Egyetem tér. The beautifully modern square
often fills with students from the neighboring
ELTE University.
Ráday utca
The entire length of pedestrian-friendly Ráday
utca is lined with cafés and restaurants, most
fronted by terraces that spill onto the street.
Offerings range from traditional Magyar to
more progressive international cuisine. Costes,
the first restaurant in Hungary to receive a
Michelin star, is one of the few worthwhile
options here but they’re set to move in spring
of this year to a location near the Four Seasons
Hotel Gresham Palace.
We recommend
● A relaxing sunny afternoon in Károlyi kert
● A five-course gourmet meal at Onyx
● Bar hopping on Kazinczy utca
● Interior design shops along Király utca
● Live music at the Quarter6Quarter7 festival

28
District V & District XIII
Business or pleasure
Going downtown
Home to Budapest’s most ambitious
architectural achievements, the northern
part of District V (Lipótváros) also comprises
the heart of the city’s business and political
affairs. A neatly patterned grid of streets gives
way to wonderfully eclectic building styles
from neo-Classical to neo-Gothic, and the
local interpretation of Art Nouveau known as
Secessionism. If you’re looking for late-night
diversions, there are plenty clustered around
busy Szent István tér.
Szent István tér
Dominating the square is Budapest’s largest
church, St Stephen's Basilica, which took
54 years to build. It was plagued by setbacks
including the passing of two of its three

29
architects, the collapse of its dome and heavy
bombing during World War II. Any tour of this
monumental building would not be complete
without a rooftop stroll around the dome, or
a visit to the reliquary where the mummified
right hand of King St Stephen is on display.
The square and surrounding streets are lined
with a handful of highly recommendable
restaurants and bars such as the newly opened
KNRDY steak house or the popular Borkonyha,
which specializes in local wines and inventive
gastronomy. Another new kid on the block, the
Trafiq bar, puts a sophisticated spin on the
quintessential Budapest concept of 'ruin bar': a
nightlife staple set up in disused urban spaces.
Szabadság tér
Nearby Szabadság tér (Freedom Square) was
once home to the ominously massive 'New
Building' commissioned by the Habsburgs as
a barracks and military academy. It was later
used as a prison during the 1848-49 Uprising.
A geometrically landscaped garden bounded
by the National Bank, the US Embassy and the
former Stock and Commodity Exchange, was
erected in its place at the beginning of the 1900s.
At its center is the controversial monument to
the Soviet Liberators. Wander just north of here
to the House of Hungarian Art Nouveau, which
contains a museum and café, and is a wonderful
spot to rest your weary feet.

30
Jewish monument
Take a short stroll from Szabadság tér to the
banks of the Danube and you will arrive at the
Shoes on the Danube Promenade – a somber
memorial to the Jews who lost their lives to
Hungary’s fascist Arrow Cross Party during
World War II. Sixty pairs of cast-iron shoes line
the site where victims were executed – their
bodies left to fall in the water and be carried
downstream.
District XIII
As you pass the Parliament building, walk
north along the Danube and under the
beautifully restored Margaret Bridge, which
spans the river from the southwest corner of
District XIII (Újlipótváros). This residential
oasis is best known for its striking modernist
dwellings, coveted penthouses and serene green
spaces. Once an industrial neighborhood, the
district underwent a massive development
boom between the two world wars as is evident
in its many rich examples of Art Deco and
Bauhaus architecture.
Several cafés and restaurants line the main
thoroughfare of Pozsonyi út before meeting the
epicenter of Újlipótváros: Szent István Park.
The Danube runs along the western edge of
the park, while scores of luxury apartments
all vie for the best views of the river and the

31
„If you’re looking for latenight
diversions, there are
plenty clustered around
busy Szent István tér
distant Buda Hills. The Dunapark Kávézó,
which also borders the square, first opened for
business in 1938. It still serves delicious cakes
and elaborate dinners, which can be savored
on the tranquil park-side terrace. The nearby
Sarki Fűszeres extends the district’s offerings
of gourmet fare in its cozy, glass-lined interior
where smoked meats and cheeses, and wines
and champagnes from all over the world can
be sampled in-house or taken to go. For a more
elaborate dining experience and some of the
best locally prepared seafood, Belgian chef and
proprietor Philippe Del Mestre of Philippe a
Belga fame makes a visit to Újlipótváros all the
more worthwhile.
We recommend
● Look-out of the dome of St Stephen's Basilica
● Wine with dinner at Borkonyha
● Shoes on the Danube Promenade memorial
● A museum visit at the House of Hungarian
Art Nouveau
● Coffee and cake at Dunapark Kávézó

32
Budapest
A Walk Through History
From opulent cafés to atmospheric bathhouses and
life behind the Iron Curtain…

34
Draw Back the Iron Curtain
Get a glimpse of communist-era Budapest
ungary has had more than its fair share
of occupations, the most recent being a
rather painful and grueling 45 years under
the heavy hand of Soviet rule. Life behind the
Iron Curtain may have left a relatively light
mark on the majestic architecture of downtown
Budapest, but ghosts of the communist past
can still be found in its streets – and are of
enduring interest to visitors.
Soviet liberators
The Siege of Budapest took place at the end
of World War II when Soviet forces fought a
bloody battle with the Nazis who had occupied
the region nine months earlier. Much of Castle
Hill was leveled in the struggle and bullet holes
from the battle still scar many of the city’s
façades. The controversial Soviet Liberators’
Monument – adorned with the communist red

35
star - was erected after the war at what is now
Szabadság tér, to honor Soviet soldiers who lost
their lives during the siege.
The Secret Police
The first decades of Soviet rule brought severe
oppression, when many personal freedoms
were revoked and the Secret Police made
citizens suspicious of everyone. This sinister
atmosphere pervades the powerful House
of Terror Museum. Set in the heart of Pest’s
central villa district on elegant Andrássy út,
it was once the headquarters of the fascist
Arrow Cross party and later the Hungarian
communist Secret Police. Many of those
brought here for questioning were never seen
again. The museum fascinates and disturbs in
equal measure, and the cells in the basement
are unchanged since serving their grim
purpose during some of the darkest days in
Hungary’s history.
Revolution of 1956
Anger and frustration with the communist
regime erupted on October 23 1956. But sadly,
the revolution was crushed only two weeks
later, when Soviet tanks stormed the streets of
Budapest. Where the massive statue of Josef
Stalin once stood, at the edge of City Park,
a stunning representation of the rising tide

36
of revolt was erected in its place for the 50th
anniversary of the Uprising, in 2006.
The Bloody Thursday Memorial, a short stroll
from Parliament, commemorates the clash
between Soviet troops and Hungarian students
with large cast-iron pellets that represent
the bullets, which marred the façade of the
Agriculture Ministry on Kossuth tér in 1956.
A few steps away, former Prime Minister Imre
Nagy – whose attempts at liberal reform of the
communist system enraged Hungary’s Soviet
masters – is immortalized in a statue near the
southeast corner of Kossuth tér at Vértanúk
tere. Nagy was convicted of treason and secretly
executed after the revolution.
Communist statues
Socialist statues celebrating youth, sport, study
and combat are somewhat inconspicuously
displayed along the Avenue of Youth, next to
Ferenc Puskás Stadium. While a little further
afield, Memento Park on the western outskirts
of town, is home to many of the hulking
communist symbols that were quickly moved
beyond the city limits following the fall of
communism in 1989.
Hop on a trolley
Most of these sites can be reached on Budapest’s
legendary red trolley buses, Soviet-era
relics that first took to the streets in 1949 in

37
celebration of Stalin’s 70th birthday. A new bus
was launched nearly every year until 1983 and
since then, very few new ones have been added
to the f leet.
Mementos
Some Soviet style icons are back in fashion
both here and abroad, such as Tisza shoes
and Trapper Jeans. These were communist
Hungary’s answer to the sartorial temptations
of the West, and they are still being made
today in both retro-chic and updated editions.
More adventurous souls can find peculiar
communist relics at the Ecseri flea market in
distant south Pest.
„Soviet-era trolleys first
took to the streets in 1949
in celebration of Stalin’s
70th birthday

38
Budapest’s Beautiful Baths
Soak in the splendor!
elow the surface of Budapest’s charming
cobblestone streets, majestic architecture
and the limestone cliffs of Buda, is an intricate
network of thermal springs gushing towards
the surface and filling the pools of the city’s
many historical baths. Not only do locals make
a ritual of visiting their favorite thermal waters,
but tourists from all over the world make the
pilgrimage to Budapest to indulge in their
healing properties, or plunge into all-night
parties complete with DJs, spectacular visuals
and loads of geothermal fun.
Ancient baths
The rich and colorful history of Budapest’s
thermal springs began long before the birth
of the Hungarian nation, with the arrival of
the Romans some 2,000 years ago in what is
now the Óbuda district of town. They put the
abundance of mineral rich hot springs to good

39
use, and the ruins of Aquincum and its nearby
museum testify to the tremendous skill of
Roman engineers who built elaborate aqueducts
and drainage systems that helped foster a
f lourishing bathing culture.
Arrival of the Turks
When the Ottomans occupied Budapest from
1541 to 1699, they erected several of their own
bathhouses throughout the city. Two of these
remain, in part at least: the Király and Rudas
Baths still boast their original Turkish domes
and central pool structure. These baths have
men’s, women’s and mixed bathing days, where
guests have no qualms about shedding their attire
as they flit between steamy saunas and cooling
pools. Most impressive around high noon, the
central bathing hall of the Rudas is beautifully
lit by beams of sunlight, which filter through
the hexagonal holes in the domed roof, an effect
augmented by steam rising off the water.
The new millennium
Given that most of the city’s hundred or so
thermal springs originate in Buda, this is
also where you’ll find most of the city’s baths,
such as the Gellért connected to the four-star
hotel of the same name. Striking Secessionist
and neo-Classical details adorn the interior
bathing halls as well as the outdoor pools.

40
Indulge in a post-soak coffee at the adjacent
café, which offers lovely views over Pest and the
neighboring Gellért Hill.
The most popular of Budapest’s thermal baths
is situated on the Pest side of town in the heart
of City Park. The Széchenyi Bath is a large finde-siècle
bathing complex with several pools
indoor and outdoor, of varying temperatures
ranging from 18°C to 38°C. Bathers are often
seen playing chess in the large outdoor pool
while families flock to the adventure pool
opposite. Széchenyi is open year-round and is
best visited shortly before sunset, to experience
the distinctive ambiance of day and night
in the baths. Winter bathing is particularly
memorable, as steam rises into the crisp air.
Széchenyi also hosts DJ parties every Saturday
night from 10pm until late throughout the
warmer months.
The latest and most anticipated opening, Veli
Bej Turkish Bath, involved the painstaking
restoration of a bathhouse originally
commissioned by Pasa Sokollu Mustafa in 1574.
Hidden from view amid a cluster of buildings
adjacent to the Császár Komjádi sports pool,
Veli Bej had been out of commission for more
than a decade. Its beautiful bathing hall, like
the Rudas Bath, sports a domed roofed covered
with tiny skylights, which gently illuminate the
majestic space.

„Roman engineers built
elaborate aqueducts and
drainage systems that
helped foster a flourishing
bathing culture
41

42
Café Culture
A tasty piece of history and a hip, young brew
offee came to Hungary by way of the
Ottomans some 600 years ago, but coffeehouse
culture only took hold in Budapest
around the turn of the 20th century, when
the city could boast as many cafés as Vienna
and even Paris. Two wars and decades of
communism put paid to most of these finde-siècle
gems, but a welcome revival has now
restored many historic cafés to their former
glory – opulent spaces reminiscent of another
era, proffering decadent treats, world-renowned
cakes and expertly crafted coffees.
This revival has also inspired a new generation
of young entrepreneurs to open their own
coffee shops. They are part of an exciting
new breed of local businesses that are slowly
transforming the urban landscape.
Known as cukrászda (cake shop) or kávéház

43
(coffee house), nearly every street corner in
the capital offers something distinctive, but
we definitely have our favorites. Whether you
long for a journey back in time to Budapest’s
illustrious past or want to feel the fresh young
vibe of a side-street café, the following offer the
best of local f lavors.
Old world
For over a century, the elaborate confections
of legendary pastry chefs József Dobos, Emil
Gerbeaud, Vilmos Ruszwurm and József
Auguszt have been perfected in Budapest’s
coffee houses. But for the best renditions, we
advise heading straight to the source.
Apart from creating a delicate, layered dessert,
Emil Gerbeaud is also the founder of one of
the city’s most renowned cafés. Set in a grand
historic building on central Vörösmarty tér,
Gerbeaud pairs tradition with modern f lavors
in its airy interior and expansive terrace.
Hungary’s oldest cake shop, Ruszwurm has
occupied a cozy space up on Castle Hill since
1827. The original cherry-wood furnishings
have been lovingly restored and their delicious
cakes are a favorite of passing tourists.
With a prime location on Pest’s Great Ring
Road, the New York Café is all about lavish
atmosphere, with exquisite neo-Baroque
details and gilded gold embellishments. A vital

44
member of the original coffee-house scene,
the New York Café was once a haunt of writers,
artists, actors, starlets and film directors.
If you’re looking for some of the finest krémes
(custard cream pastry) in Budapest, you’ll find
it at any of the city’s three Auguszt cafés. For
delicious treats in a secluded setting, the one in
hilly Buda features a lovely garden. Although
the place itself is relatively new, the traditions
which inspired the opening of the First Strudel
House of Pest stem from a long history of
strudel making that has been perfected in
Hungary over the centuries. Indulge in such
sweet creations or more substantial meals in a
rustic setting.
New wave
Venture a little off the beaten path to see what’s
brewing at one of the hip, young cafés scattered
around the city. The newly opened Espresso
Embassy in the heart of central Pest, serves
premium coffees in a funky urban setting
where pro baristas man high-tech machines to
produce truly outstanding coffee.
The nearby Budapest ‘Broadway’ may be at its
most vibrant after sunset but Mai Manó Kávézó
draws visitors at all hours. Set at the entrance
to the renowned photographic gallery of the
same name, Mai Manó attracts an arty crowd
with an interior that could have been designed
by Gustav Klimt. Just around the corner, Café

45
Zsivágó is lovely space with a youthful energy
and the atmosphere of an old-world Russian
parlor. A bright café by day, it is transformed
into a fun bar by night complete with live music
and premium Russian vodkas.
Coffee takes something of a back seat at Lumen
gallery and café in the Palace Quarter, but
that’s not to say that it doesn’t offer a fine brew.
People come here for the intriguing exhibits
of experimental photography, and stay for
the coffee. A few doors away, Nostro, run by a
Hungarian-Italian duo, offers some of the best
Western-style cakes in the city, myriad coffees
and freshly squeezed juices in smart and stylish
surroundings.
„Opulent spaces
reminiscent of another era
proffer decadent treats,
world-renowned cakes and
expertly crafted coffees

47
Budapest
Trips Out of Town
Take a leisurely break by the lake, visit some of
the country’s best wineries or breathe in the
history and culture of enchanting villages

48
Lake Balaton
A retro holiday on the north coast
Once the meeting place for inhabitants of
the Eastern Bloc and their free-roaming
neighbors from the West, Lake Balaton remains
a popular weekend getaway for Hungarians
looking to escape the summer heat and the
country’s congested capital. Even though
the first resort towns were built on the lake
more than two centuries ago, much of its
150 kilometers of coastline remains vastly
underdeveloped, harking back to an era before
the fall of communism. To experience the best
of the Balaton and the true beauty of the lake,
we recommend visiting the towns on or near
the northern coast, where verdant hills meet
turquoise waters, where winemakers revive
exciting varieties of heirloom grapes and where
a cottage industry of artisans produces unique
goods for sale at local markets.

49
Balatonfüred
One of the best ways to explore the lake is
by boat and there are several marinas where
sailboats and yachts can be rented, such as at
Balatonfüred. After decades of neglect under
communism, ‘Füred’ has finally received a
much-needed makeover to bring its lakeside
facilities into the 21st century. The picturesque
main square – Gyógy tér – is built around a
spring that has been spurting out naturally
carbonated water since the 1800s. To experience
Lake Balaton at its finest, take a stroll along
the beautiful tree-lined Tagore Promenade,
or go for a dip at Esterházy strand. This year
throughout the month of July, Balatonfüred
will host the BalatonLaserWorlds, where laserclass
sailors from around the globe take to the
water to compete for gold.
Tihany
The picturesque village of Tihany deserves
a visit if for nothing else but the spectacular
panorama of the lake from the lookout by
the twin-spired Abbey Church. The Tihany
peninsula is essentially a large hill that
intersects the lake and comprises a smaller
inner lake, wild parkland and a ferry port to
the south coast. Take a break on the terrace of
the Rege kávézó beneath the church and enjoy
breathtaking views over your cappuccino.

50
Badacsony
Balaton’s most visited wine region of Badacsony
is easily identifiable by its peculiar f lat-topped
mountain, which was once an active volcano
millions of years ago. The basalt soil, sunsoaked
slopes and unique microclimate help
produce superb grapes and even better wines,
which can be sampled in the myriad of cellars
that line the hillside and provide wonderful
views of the lake. Noteworthy producers include
veteran winemaker Huba Szeremley, whose
wines are on offer at the Szent Orbán Borház,
or the Laposa winery, which recently opened
a modern hotel and restaurant with a large,
sunny terrace – reservations are a must.
Káli Basin
Inland from the volcanic hills of Badacsony
lies the Káli Basin, a haven for winemakers,
artists, and those looking to get away from the
lake’s busy coastline. Picturesque villages dot
the rolling hills of the basin, often referred
to as the ‘Provence of Hungary’. The Istvándy
Winery, located between Badacsony and
Káptalantóti, is a wonderful setting for enjoying
local vintages. Or visit the Káptalantóti
market on Sunday mornings to pick up locally
produced cheeses and smoked meats, as well as
hand-crafted goods and antiques. For a superb
dining experience, the atmospheric Káli Art
Inn in Köveskál features beautifully prepared,

51
„The basalt soil, sunsoaked
slopes and unique
microclimate produce
superb grapes
progressive Hungarian cuisine. Seal the deal
at the Trombitás winery in the lovely town
of Szentbékkálla, where outstanding wines
are produced in small series, and where the
winemaker himself hosts private wine tastings
in a beautiful hillside locale.
Herend
The Herend Porcelain Manufactory is located
a 40-minute drive north of the lake. Go behind
the scenes to watch works in progress or get
your hands dirty in a full-day porcelainpainting
workshop. The on-site museum holds
the world’s largest collection of Herend while
the shop offers beautiful pieces to take home.
We recommend
● Wine on the terrace of Szeremley’s winery
● Coffee with a view at Rege kávézó in Tihany
● A lingering lunch at the Káli Art Inn
in Köveskál
● A walk along the Tagore Promenade
in Balatonfüred
● Private wine tasting at the Trombitás winery
Duration: Full day
Location: 1.5 to 2.5 hours from hotel

52
Szentendre
Delightful riverside attractions
zentendre has long been a favorite
destination of daytrippers from Budapest,
drawn to this quaint town by way of its
beautiful architecture, narrow cobblestone
streets, riverside cafés and folksy fare, but
most of all its easy access from the capital
by suburban railway or boat. Yet the artistic
lifeblood that courses through the veins of
Szentendre is often overlooked by visitors.
Serbian settlers
Romans and Celts were the first to settle in
the area, but it was the second wave of Serbian
immigration in the 17th century that made
an indelible mark on the city’s architecture
in the form of single-story Baroque houses,
atmospheric squares and beautiful Orthodox
churches. The most prominent of these is
the Belgrade Cathedral, which contains an

53
ornately carved Bishop’s throne and beautiful
paintings embellishing the apses. Next door,
the Museum of Serbian Church Art is home to
exquisite icons and elaborate vestments. The
Blagovestenska Church on the main square
also deserves a visit to view its iconostasis of
carved wood and gilded gold.
Art in action
Artists arrived in Szentendre long before the
tourists; they were most probably inspired by
the Balkan atmosphere and a serenity unlike
elsewhere in Hungary at the turn of the 20th
century. Among them was avant-garde painter
Lajos Vajda who produced an impressive body of
work in his short lifetime, some of which can be
viewed at the Vajda Lajos Museum. In the spirit
of provocative art, a group of young artists
opened Szentendre’s first gallery, the Vajda
Lajos Studio in 1972. Two of its more notable
founders were László Lugossy and István
Zámbó, who went on to form the controversial
experimental rock band A. E. Bizottság (Albert
Einstein Committee) in the 1980s. The large
finger statue by Zámbó is the first work you see
when arriving in Szentendre from Budapest.
The MűvészetMalom gallery features
intriguing exhibits of Hungarian and
international art in a unique space that
originally served as a sawmill in the late 19th

54
century. Works of the popular ceramic artist
Margit Kovács, best known for her endearing
and rough-hewn ceramic sculptures, are on
display at the Margit Kovács Museum near
the main square. If you’d rather purchase art
than simply look at it, private galleries such as
Erdész Galéria exhibit the work of local and
world-renowned international artists.
Shopping
Szentendre boasts a beautiful riverfront
promenade and a pedestrian-only town center,
with plenty of shops offering all manner of
Hungarian products. Hidden among these are
wonderful rarities such as Palmetta Design
Gallery and Shop, which showcases housewares
and jewelry from Hungarian and international
designers. Or if you’re after antique Herend
and Zsolnay porcelain, the Antikvitás Parti
has a large collection of vases, place settings
and valuable antique trinkets. For something
a little out of the ordinary, you can pick up
one-of-a-kind souvenirs and wearable art at the
monthly arts and crafts fair KOMP, which is
Szentendre’s rendition of the popular WAMP
design fair in Budapest.
Where to eat
By now you’ve likely worked up an appetite
and fortunately Szentendre has a fair selection

55
„The artistic lifeblood
that courses through
the veins of this quaint
town is often overlooked
by visitors
restaurants and cozy cafés to choose from.
Among the terraces that line the Danube, the
most recommendable is Christine, which serves
progressive Hungarian cuisine in a modern
setting. Off the main square, Dorothea Bistro
Café has a sweet little patio, tasty treats and
plenty of wine and cocktails to choose from,
while Barcelona does fine tapas as well as pasta
and pizza. If you’re looking for a special dining
experience, head over to Szentendre Island to
sample from the fusion menu of Hungarianmeets-French
cuisine at Rosinante.
We recommend
● Contemporary art at MűvészetMalom
● Inventive Hungarian housewares and jewelry
at Palmetta Design
● Performance art at Vajda Lajos Studio
● Dinner on the terrace of Rosinante
● Icons at the Museum of Serbian Church Art
Duration: Up to 6 hours
Location: 30 minutes from hotel

56
Regional Vintages
The best of Hungarian viticulture
Tokaj-Hegyalja
Dubbed the ‘wine of kings’ by Louis XIV,
Tokaji Aszú remains one of the world’s top
sweet vintages, but the region in which it is
produced is becoming increasingly recognized
for its dry whites. The latter are derived mostly
from Furmint and Hárslevelű grapes. Lovely
vineyards and small towns dot the undulating
landscapes while sun-drenched slopes and
volcanic soils lend wines an exciting complexity
and distinctive minerality that varies from hill
to hill and vineyard to vineyard.
Most visitors flock to the historic town of Tokaj
set at the meeting point of the Tisza and Bodrog
rivers, but if you're looking for handcrafted
wines produced in small quantities, the region
is ripe with other options. That’s not to discount
larger producers such as Oremus and Disznókő,

57
who have raised the profile and quality of wines
throughout Tokaj-Hegyalja – the Disznókő
winery has also enriched the local culinary scene
with its delightful Sárgaborház restaurant. In
the neighboring village of Mád, small producer
István Balassa, who frequently collaborates with
internationally-respected vintner István Szepsy,
produces outstanding wines. These can be
sampled at the Gusteau Kulináris Élményműhely
alongside delicious seasonal cuisine or on special
picnic tours. And where there are fine wines
there are usually artisanal cheeses, such as those
made at the Tokaji Sajtmanufaktúra.
Location: 3 hours from hotel
Villány
Most of this region’s prized wineries can be
found in the bucolic village of Villány, which is
renowned for its full-bodied, spicy red wines.
Early records show that viticulture has existed
in the region since Roman times, but it was all
white until the Serbs introduced the Kadarka
grape in the 15th century. German settlers later
put the region on the world wine map with their
refined winemaking techniques. Hot summers
and relatively mild winters and the shelter of
the surrounding hills created a microclimate,
well-suited to the production of later arrivals
such as Portugieser, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot.

58
Apart from highly sophisticated producers
Gere, Sauska and Bock, small-scale winemakers
still press grapes using traditional methods, the
results of which can be enjoyed at rustic wine
bars along the main street. Attila Gere’s Mandula
restaurant is perfect for sampling top local
cuisine and a fine selection of Gere's wines. At the
Malatinszky Kúria, Cabernet Franc takes center
stage and is crafted into robust vintages using an
ecologically-friendly process. For tranquil views
visit the terrace at Sauska Winery, a relatively new
kid on the block that has shot straight to the top
for its uncompromising commitment to quality.
Location: 2.5 hours from hotel
Etyek
Etyek is a great destination if you’re pressed
for time but would still like to get a taste of
local wine production, though you won’t find
much in the way of reds – apart from a spot of
Pinot Noir. International white varieties such as
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay
share the calcareous soils with Hungarian
Irsai Olivér and Királyleánka, on and around
Öreghegy, a hill just west of the town of Etyek.
Beautiful panoramas and rows of small cellars
characterize the area, whereas major producers
have also made their mark on the landscape
with state of the art wineries. Etyeki Kúria,
whose acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot

59
Noir are a must, is currently expanding its
operations fivefold. The Haraszthy Vallejo
estate features an Argentine-style restaurant,
swimming pool and VIP wine-tasting room, all
of which are open from spring to fall. Speaking
softly but boldly amid the big shots, is EtyekM,
a delightful little cellar that serves its own
and locally produced vintages and deliciously
rustic meals. The Rókusfalvy Fogadó, at the
foot of the hill and in the town proper, also
deserves a mention for its creative renditions
of Hungarian and local Swabian-inf luenced
cuisine, as well as its cellar's own wines.
We Recommend
● Picnic on the hill with István Balassa
● Lunch at Disznókő’s Sárgaborház restaurant
● Sampling fine wines on Sauska’s terrace
● Poolside tasting at Haraszthy Vallejo
Location: 45 minutes from hotel

60
Budape
Tailor-made Experiences
Insider tips on savoring local culture

62
Equestrian Adventures
Test drive a Hungarian steed
ith so much unspoiled terrain in easy
reach of the capital, horse riding provides
a wonderful way to escape the city for an
invigorating breath of fresh air.
The romanticism associated with equestrian
sports in Hungary can be traced as far back
as the Magyar conquest of the Carpathian
Basin in the 9th century and further still to
Attila and his Hunnic tribes. From Medieval
times, Hungarian Hussars were revered
throughout Europe for their agility in combat
and refined style of dress. After the fall of the
Austro-Hungarian Empire and throughout
communism, however, horse riding and the
rich culture surrounding it, slipped into
dormancy, but in the past two decades there has
been a slow revival of local equestrian sports.
The following are some worthwhile options.

63
Lovas Zugoly Riding School
Located at the foot of the Vértes and Gerecse
hills in the town of Csabdi, Lovas Zugoly offers
private lessons for both ring and trail riding.
Proprietor András Komjáthy has over 15 years
of riding experience. He and his wife Ilona can
teach beginners the essentials of lunge riding
while advanced riders are taken on tours of the
beautiful rolling foothills and vast unfenced
territory. Private, tailored-made lessons are
available throughout the week while weekends
are generally reserved for mixed-level classes in
the ring and on the trails.
Lovas Zugoly’s facilities include an 80-squaremeter
covered riding arena, an outdoor
swimming pond and fireplace, change rooms
with shower facilities, a cozy lounge and kitchen
and catering on request. Over a dozen horses
have been selected for ease of riding and are kept
in English-style box stalls or run-in sheds.
DURATION
Up to 3 hours
LOCATION
50 minutes from hotel, in Csabdi
MAXIMUM CAPACITY
10 people, 2 beginners at a time
AVAILABILITY
On request with a minimum of 48 hours' notice,
on weekdays

64
La Estancia Polo Club
Polo was first introduced to Hungary during
the millennial celebrations in 1896 and the
Hungarian team later went on to defeat
Germany at the 1936 Olympics. But as with
other equestrian sports, polo fell dormant
during communism only to be revived in the
1990s. In 1998 La Estancia Polo Club was born.
Situated 20 minutes from Budapest near the
town of Etyek, Estancia features two fields for
polo matches while another is reserved for
stick and ball practice. Come with your teams
to play a match with the assistance of a stable
of Argentine-bred ponies or sign up for a
riding lesson led by qualified instructors. Polo
clinics are also available for beginners. Or if
you simply want to watch, scheduled matches
provide a wonderful opportunity to see and be
seen. The club is open from May to October.
DURATION
Up to 1.5 hours
LOCATION
45 minutes from hotel, east of Etyek
MAXIMUM CAPACITY
Two teams of 4 players, or single riders
AVAILABILITY
On request, depending on scheduled matches

66
Wine Bars
Calling all oenophiles!
Hungary may be famous for its wines but
Budapest is quickly becoming famous for
its new wave of wine bars. With the assistance
of a wine expert, you can sip your way through
Budapest’s finest. There are over a dozen hot
spots to choose, ranging from chic and trendy
to elegant, or minimal and modern.
Start with an aperitif or rare vintage at one
of the fashionable wine bars on or near Szent
István tér such as innio or DeVino, followed by
a meal at Budapest’s essential wine restaurant
Borkonyha. Or sample continental fare at one
of the handful of up-and-coming eateries
that boast a good selection of local wines and
delicious food. Conclude the evening with a
mini tour of the city’s most exciting locales,
where the focus, of course, is on Hungarian
wines, and some of the more worthwhile

67
imports. Wine Bar serves up several wines
by the glass and hosts live jazz most nights.
Venture into the heart of the Jewish Quarter to
experience the more elegant side of Budapest’s
famous bar district at Dobló Wine Bar or
Kadarka.
Should you be feeling a little peckish as the
night progresses, most of these establishments
serve superior cold cuts and imported cheeses
that pair perfectly with a nice glass of vino.
Some take it a step further to offer progressive
renditions of Hungarian cuisine. Either way,
you’ll be well taken care of.
DURATION:
Up to 4 hours
LOCATION:
Central Budapest
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
6 people
AVAILABILITY:
On request with a minimum of 48 hours' notice

68
Gourmet Tour of Budapest
Hungarian Cuisine: more than just paprika!
iscover Budapest’s vibrant culinary
scene with native food writer and gastroblogger
extraordinaire, Zsófia Mautner, as she
guides you through the city’s most exciting
gastronomical highlights.
Witness what locals in the food trade are calling
a culinary revolution, which in the past few
years has manifested itself in an unprecedented
number of restaurant, café and gourmet shop
openings, a plethora of sophisticated culinary
events, and the emergence of talented young
chefs who are reshaping Hungarian cuisine.
Begin with a tour of the Great Market Hall,
where you will be introduced to ingredients
typical of local cuisine: summer squash,
parsley root, pickled vegetables, ewe cheese,
pork cracklings, spicy sausage, sour cherries
or poppy seeds. Grab a table at a fine pastry

69
shop to sample classic Hungarian cakes or visit
one of the popular cafés where locals go – for
the warm-hearted hospitality and a tasty cup
of coffee. If time allows, you can enjoy a lunch
at one of the many progressive Hungarian
bistros, or opt for a more traditional, family
style Jewish-Hungarian restaurant, for goose
soup with matzo balls, stuffed peppers, and
some of the city’s best flódni (apple, walnut, and
poppy seed pastry). On Sunday mornings the
renowned 'ruin bar' Szimpla Kert hosts one
of the city’s most charming urban farmer’s
markets, while the arts and crafts market
WAMP, also features artisanal food products.
All tours can be tailor-made according to
your interest and food preferences: from an
exploration of the rich world of Hungarian
pastries and cakes, to dining with other locals
in the privacy of an apartment, or a fun and
informative lunch or dinner with your resident
food expert, Ms Mautner.
DURATION
Up to 4 hours
LOCATION
Central Budapest
MAXIMUM CAPACITY
6 people
AVAILABILITY
On request with a minimum of 48 hours' notice

70
Gallery Tours
For your eyes only
Art Factory
This vast exhibition and studio space is brought
to life by a dynamic collective of artists who met
while studying art in Budapest. Márta Kucsora,
Levente Herman, Zsolt Bodoni, Dóra Juhász
and Sándor Szász are all painters who work in
the contemporary vein from figurative to more
abstract styles. Some of their pieces grace the
walls of the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace
while others have traveled great distances to be
exhibited throughout Europe, and as far as the
United States.
Pay a visit to this open and airy space – formerly
a communist-era furniture factory – and peruse
the works of these provocative and gifted artists.
Witness the creative process in action or enjoy
a chat over a glass of wine. The Art Factory is
open from March to November.

71
Kogart House
As a young entrepreneur Gábor Kovács, the
founder of Kogart House, was always fascinated
by the enchanting world of art. As his fortune
grew, so did his collection of paintings, which
is now housed in his beautifully restored 19thcentury
villa complete with café, restaurant
and atmospheric garden. Though Kovács has
a penchant for Hungarian classics and in
particular landscapes – these can be viewed
on the main f loor of the Kogart House – his
interests are more far-reaching. Exhibits on the
gallery’s upper level tend to feature emerging
Hungarian artists. This is the primary focus of
Kovács’s enterprise.
The nearby Kogart Galéria is a commercial
space, which hosts group and solo shows of
contemporary Hungarian and international
artists. It is also home to a faithful reproduction
of Hungarian painter and graphic designer
Tibor Csernus’ atelier in Paris, which features
many of the artist’s original furnishings, tools
and paintings.

72
In the Studio
One on one with the artist
n art gallery is usually a good place to get
an impression of a local art scene, but it’s
seldom enough to really experience the essence
of the artist. On this tour you can move beyond
the city’s galleries and into the private studios
of some of Hungary’s most compelling artists.
You may even be fortunate enough to watch
the artists as they work, or enjoy an inspiring
conversation about their creative process.
For collectors who prefer less conventional
works, Attila Szűcs’s studio is a good place to
start. Szűcs’s paintings challenge conventional
perception and border on disturbing, yet are
beautifully executed. Planking, in which a
subject lies face down in a plank position, is
a recurring theme in Szűcs’s latest paintings
and is also the inspiration behind his recent
deviation into the world of sculpture.

73
„Move beyond the city’s
galleries and into the
private studios of some
of Hungary’s most
compelling artists
Agnes Von Uray’s works may be somewhat
lighter in tone, yet they possess an emotional
quality and sadness that draws the viewer into
the world of the subject. Von Uray is inspired
by renaissance frescoes and classical painting,
while her images are often derived from film
stills – a freeze frame in which the subject is
imbued with an intensity that transcends the
paint on the canvas.
Painter Luca Korodi creates mesmerizing
landscapes that transform typical urban scenes
in Budapest – and beyond – into mysterious
and dreamlike spaces. The Danube River and
its bridges are a recurring and powerful theme
in her most recent paintings.
On the photographic end of the scale – albeit
with the perspective of a painter – Károly
‘Minyó’ Szert explores everyday subjects
through vintage, and his own photographs,
which he then reinterprets through the use
of free-hand processing techniques. Smaller
versions of his large-scale works are also
available in thematically arranged box sets.
In the spirit of fun and creativity, Szert’s
art openings often include an element of
performance in which an old bicycle and light
projections play a key role.

74
Learn to Cook
Get trade secrets from the pros
pend an afternoon with Four Seasons Hotel
Gresham Palace’s executive chef as he teaches
you how to create the multiple courses of a fivestar
menu. The day begins with a trip to the Great
Market Hall where students can witness firsthand
how locals shop for the wonderful variety of
ingredients used in Hungarian cuisine.
Come hungry, as there will be many dishes
to sample along the way beginning with a
rich breakfast, to provide fuel for the kitchen
adventures ahead. With the help of willing
participants, the chef along with a handful
of eager assistants will, in a remarkably short
amount of time, prepare five exquisite courses
entirely from scratch. As participants, you are
encouraged not only to pay attention and ask
questions but also partake in every step of the
magical process of creating a outstanding meal.

75
Find out how to locally source the finest and
freshest ingredients, how to prepare a savory
marinade, how to make fresh stuffed pasta
or goose liver pâté, or bake an irresistible
Hungarian dessert. Learn expert techniques
most cookbooks leave out and at the end of
it all, sit down to a lavish meal and enjoy the
fruits of your collective labor!
The hotel also holds monthly cooking courses,
which are based on a menu served the night
before, a menu in which each course has been
meticulously planned and paired with some
of Hungary’s best vintages to accentuate the
f lavors and textures of the food.
DURATION:
Up to 5 hours
LOCATION:
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
15 people per group
AVAILABILITY:
On request with a minimum of 4 days' notice

76
Personal Shoppers: Fashion
À la mode in the capital
f you’re on a mission to source the very
best of local design, our personal shopper
will help unveil must-have creations from
Budapest’s cutting-edge designers.
The Use Unused trio pairs simple elegance with
contemporary design for the modern working
woman while Artista, a collective of six young
designers, is all about funky urban chic with a
romantic touch. Check out hot young designer
Szandra Sándor, also known as nanushka,
who proffers sleek yet comfortable apparel for
women from her flagship store on Budapest’s
Fashion Street. Your feet will also need tending
to and what better way to enrich a fashion tour
then with a visit to rekavago’s showroom where
you’ll find haute-couture caliber shoes and
accessories to match. Or visit the atelier of local
leather virtuoso – Vietnamese-born Anh Tuan.

77
If you’re still hungry for more, Tamás Náray
embodies the cream of sophisticated couture
catering to women in search of pure elegance
from his posh atelier.
Eventuell bridges the gap between designs for
the body and furnishing for the home. But the
most devout followers of fashion swear by the
home-grown design market WAMP, held the
last Sunday of every month and every Sunday
leading up to Christmas.
DURATION:
Up to 4 hours
LOCATION:
Central Budapest
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
2 people
AVAILABILITY:
On request with a minimum of 48 hours' notice

78
Personal Shoppers: Antiques
In search of precious collectibles
udapest is an antique lover's paradise:
charming f lea markets brim with historical
artifacts, while stylish antique art galleries
house rare and coveted home furnishings,
paintings, ceramics and glassware. With the
assistance of a personal shopper, you’ll discover
some of Budapest’s most prized antique
emporiums and have lots of fun hunting for
hidden treasures.
Begin with a visit to Budapest’s famed Ecseri
flea market where you’ll find rarities that
many collectors are eager to get their hands
on. Follow this with a visit to Central Europe’s
largest antique gallery, Pintér Antik, and BÁV,
Hungary’s oldest antique trading company. Get
acquainted with the country’s most renowned
galleries and auction houses from Virág Judit
Gallery to Kieselbach Gallery and Makláry Fine

79
Arts. If you leave still wanting more, there are
old Oriental weapons on sale at Moró Antik,
glamorous French Art-Deco furnishings at
Montparnasse Gallery, sought-after pieces
from the renowned furniture designers of the
Austro-Hungarian empire at Studio Agram, a
rich collection of fine and applied arts, vintage
art books and posters at Ernst Gallery and
antique meets contemporary style at Bardoni
Interieur. And the list goes on and on…
DURATION:
Up to 5 hours
LOCATION:
Ecseri f lea market and central Budapest
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
4 people
AVAILABILITY:
On request with a minimum of 48 hours' notice

80
Architectural Tours: Budapest
What’s behind the façade?
hen it comes to architectural eclecticism,
Budapest has it in spades. Whether you’re
a fan of contemporary building styles or you
prefer the classics, there is an in-depth tour to
suit every taste. Your personal guide, who has
a passion for all things constructed, will show
you a side of the city ordinary visitors rarely see
and can also accommodate special requests.
If you’re pressed for time, the neighborhood
near the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace
is brimming with a wonderful collection
of revivalist edifices both residential and
commercial. If you have a penchant for
modernist masterpieces, the hilly residential
neighborhoods of Buda, particularly Pasarét,
offers fine examples of Bauhaus and its Magyar
variations. The city center also holds many
beautiful specimens of Art Nouveau known

81
locally as Secessionism – undulating and
organic shapes and luminous colors schemes,
which provide some respite for the blockier
forms of neo-Classicism.
DURATION:
Up to 4 hours
LOCATION:
Central Budapest
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
Up to 10 people
AVAILABILITY
On request with a minimum of 1 week’s notice

84
Architectural Tours: Dunaújváros
Day tripping in Stalin’s city
ormerly known as Sztálinváros, Dunaújváros
played perfectly into the Soviet dictator’s
plan of the rigorous industrialization of the
Eastern Bloc. ‘Stalin City’ also served as a sister
city to Stalingrad in Russia and was built up
in a mere ten years, from 1950-1960, as an
extension of the old town of Dunapentele.
Very little has changed since those times,
which is why Dunaújváros is such a wonderful
example of living social realism. The designing
of this model industrial city involved the work
of many of the country’s top architects from
the 1950s onward. This is apparent in the
harmony of the city’s residential spaces, the
careful design of its squares and the atypical
embellishments known as ‘Stalinist Baroque’.
Set on the banks of the Danube, just 70
kilometers south of Budapest, Sztálinváros was

85
built to house the employees of the massive
metal works. Although you cannot enter the
compound, the socialist-realist fresco adorning
the neo-Classical façade is a striking homage to
the factory’s manufacturing process.
The city’s upper Danube promenade not only
offers incredible vistas over the river and park
below, but is also dotted with unusual metal
sculptures, many by notable Hungarian artists
active since the 1960s.
DURATION:
Up to 6 hours
LOCATION:
Dunaújváros
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
Up to 6 people
AVAILABILITY:
On request with a minimum of 1 week’s notice

86
Budapest
Child’s Play
All fun and games, just for kids

88
Interactive Concerts
Music is the spice of life!
id you ever dream of becoming a musician
like famous Hungarian composers Béla
Bartók, Zoltán Kodály or Franz Liszt? Do you
love the sound of clanging percussion, a sad
violin, or a cheerful f lute?
During this mini workshop you will be taken
on a musical voyage with the guidance of gifted
musicians and music instructors from the
Zoltán Kodály Primary and Secondary Music
School, who not only love making music, but
who would love to show you how it’s done. The
journey begins with a small concert, followed
by an interactive demonstration of the musical
instruments being played – how they work, the
sounds they make and best of all how to play
them. You’ll also learn how to make your very
own instruments out of all kinds of fun and
unusual materials you wouldn’t normally find

89
in an instrument maker’s workshop. Let your
imagination run wild and just remember that
as long as it makes a sound, you can call it an
instrument.
On scheduled concert days, the mini workshop
will be followed by an interactive performance
at the opulent Hungarian State Opera House
as part of the ‘Hangszervarázs’ series where
you’ll be able to meet Hungarian kids just like
you, who share your love of music. Take a seat
on the steps of the beautiful Royal Staircase, for
exciting performances by classical violinists,
guitarists, f lutists, trumpet players, singers and
even dancers!
DURATION:
Up to 3 hours
LOCATION:
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace,
Hungarian State Opera House
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
Suitable for groups of 2 or more children
AVAILABILITY:
On request with a minimum of 48 hours' notice

90
Backstage at the Zoo
An insider’s peek at the zoo’s residents
iscover Budapest Zoo from behind the
scenes. Join zookeepers as they do the
rounds, feeding and taking care of wild
animals from all over the world. Catch a
California sea lion show, take part in penguin
feeding, or marvel at Europe’s largest collection
of flamingos. Stare straight into the eyes of a
giraffe from above their enclosure and witness
water buffalo as they enjoy a good soak in
thermal waters from a nearby spring. Some of
you may prefer scary animals, such as voracious
piranhas, poisonous snakes or fearsome
Komodo dragons, while others are more
partial to cute and cuddly ones such as playful
orangutans, chinchillas or wallabies. At midday
enjoy a picnic lunch by the Big Lake – home
to Nile alligators and Dalmatian pelicans – or
venture over to City Park next door.

91
In the afternoon, you’ll learn about the zoo’s
animal conservation project and watch firsthand
how zookeepers save sick animals, or pay
a visit to a typical Hungarian farmyard on the
zoo grounds. Finish your fun-packed day with a
tour of Varázshegy (Magic Mountain) for some
exciting exhibits including demonstrations in
Darwin’s laboratory, a life-size model of a giant
whale, strange insects and their rituals, or a
trip through a time tunnel.
The Budapest Zoo spans nearly 11 hectares
and there are lots of things for kids to see and
do but adults will appreciate the beautiful
Secessionist buildings that are home to some
very exotic species indeed!
DURATION:
Up to 6 hours
LOCATION:
Central Budapest
MAXIMUM CAPACITY:
Suitable for groups of up to 10 children
AVAILABILITY:
On request with a minimum of 48 hours' notice

94
Budapest
Budapest at a Glance
Essential guide to the best of the capital

Fashion
Hungarian Designers
96
Artista
(VIII. Puskin utca 19, by appointment;
www.artistafashion.com)
Founded by six quirky designers
nearly a decade ago, Artista
produces cutting-edge designs
with a romantic touch. Their
most recent collection features
wearable prints by Gustav Klimt
and Egon Schiele. Accessories and
limited menswear also available.
Black Box
(V. Irányi utca 18)
With a central location just off
Váci utca, this multi-brand store
stocks the latest apparel and
accessories from over two dozen
up-and-coming Hungarian
designers including IMOGEN
and Anh Tuan. Black Box also
creates custom-made garments
for the discerning fashionista.
daalarna
(V. Alkotmány utca 16, by
appointment; www.daalarna.hu)
Anita Benes’ background in
textile design is revealed in her
beautifully executed wedding
gowns and evening wear.
Timeless classics with an eye
firmly fixed on current fashion
trends to accentuate a woman’s
best features. Rich fabrics and
brilliant colors lay the foundation
for Benes’ irresistible pieces but
she is equally at home in the
world of crisp whites and subtle
nudes. Clothing for men and
children and fancy footwear.
Je Suis Belle
(V. Ferenciek tere 11, 4th floor;
www.jesuisbelle.hu)
Founded by Dalma Devenyi and
Tibor Kiss in 2005, Je Suis Belle
has made significant headway on
the international fashion scene
with their inventive prêt-à-porter
womenswear for adventurous
and creative gals. Folk arts motifs
feature in their collections as
does simplicity of form.
Luan by Lucia
(VI. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 62,
1st floor, by appointment;
www.luanbylucia.hu)
Lucia S Hegyi’s haute couture
collections play on elegance and
romanticism in a range of lavish
fabrics with exquisite details
such as beading, embroidery
and lacework. Sumptuous and
colorful silk garments are
also made to measure, from
simple kimonos to striking
cocktail dresses. Menswear and
home decor also feature in her
collection.
Manier
(VI. Hajós utca 12; www.manier.hu)
Hungary’s answer to Vivienne
Westwood, designer Anikó
Németh borrows from history
and fuses it with a modern and
colorful touch. After two decades
in the business, Németh is
playing with the big shots just off
Andrássy út, to produce luxury
prêt-à-porter for women with an
eccentric bent.
nanushka
(V. Deák Ferenc utca 17;
www.nanushka.hu)
A graduate of the London College
of Fashion, Sandra Sándor (aka
nanushka) devises coveted pieces
of comfortable yet feminine
womenswear with a retro-chic

97
edge. Selling from her f lagship
store on Fashion Street, nanushka
is currently the only Hungarian
designer within this hub of
international fashion.
Naray Tamas Atelier
(VI. Hajós utca 17;
www.naraytamas.hu)
Haute couture is alive and well in
the luxurious atelier of Hungary’s
designer to the stars, Tamás
Náray. Local celebrities swear by
his creations – sumptuous ball
gowns, which can be tailoredmade
to fit perfectly. Náray also
has a shop in Berlin.
USE unused
(V. Szervita tér 5, 2nd floor, by
appointment; www.use.co.hu)
Leading Hungarian design trio
USE unused have developed an
international following with their
elegant yet bold, sophisticated yet
sexy prêt-à-porter collections for
women who appreciate the finer
things in life. Inspired by the
first half of the 20th century but
firmly planted in the present, the
trio works with beautiful fabrics
in creative ways. Minimal yet
essential accessories.
Retrock Deluxe
(V. Henszlmann Imre utca 1;
www.retrock.com)
With a keen eye for current
trends, Retrock Deluxe has a
revolving collection of the best
of up-and-coming Hungarian
designers including nanushka,
Mrs Herskin, Szidonia Szép and
Kele Clothing for both men and
women. Charming antique-style
decor enhances your shopping
experience.

Fashion
International Brands
98
Burberry
(VI. Andrássy út 24; hu.burberry.com)
Thomas Burberry first designed
outerwear using his water
resistant gabardine in the late
1800s and later military trench
coats for British officers in WWI.
Now under the skillful guidance
of creative director Christopher
Bailey, Burberry has expanded its
collection tenfold to include chic
women’s and menswear as well as
accessories.
Byblos
(V. Deák Ferenc utca 15;
www.fashionstreet.hu)
Byblos accentuates modern
and dynamic fashion and a
harmonious selection of top
brands including Gianfranco
Ferré, Ice Iceberg, Just Cavalli,
Galliano and Roccobarocco. The
latest addition to the collection,
Frankie Morello offers a fresh
and colorful perspective.
Capsula
(VI. Andrássy út 9; www.capsula.hu)
In its highly designed interior,
not all emphasis is on the clothes
but clean lines and bright lights
certainly draw your attention
to the wracks and shelves.
Bask in the glow of style with
pieces from Dolce & Gabbana,
Giorgio Armani, YSL, Givenchy,
Blumarine and Cesare Paciotti.
D&G
(VI. Andrássy út 33;
www.dolcegabbana.com)
The more formal Dolce &
Gabbana and racier diffusion
line D&G from masterminds
Domenico Dolce and Stefano
Gabbana feature in this luxurious
shop. Bold and sexy, lavish and
vibrant apparel and accessories as
well as fragrances for both men
and women.
Dagminell
Danish Design
(V. Szent István tér 2;
www.dagminell.com)
A Copenhagen classic at a central
location brings comfy chic and
stylish simplicity to the capital.
Bags, silk and cashmere scarves
and other fashion accessories
feature alongside smart casual
wear and fashion staples from a
pool of Danish designers.
Emporio Armani
(VI. Andrássy út 9; www.armani.com)
Certainly one of the jewels on the
Armani crown, their Budapest
store features polished black
granite f loors and stainless steel
furnishings across 330 square
meters of prime retail space.
Refined and playful street-chic
for men and women.
Ermenegildo Zegna
(VI. Andrássy út 5; www.zegna.com)
Among the first to set up shop on
luxury row, Zegna proffers luxury
men’s clothing from his main
line as well as Z Zegna and Zegna
Sports, all with a keen feel for the
highest quality fabrics.
Escada
(V. Dorottya utca 3; www.escada.com)
German-based fashion house a
short stroll from the hotel stocks
the best of Escada’s elegant and
sophisticated womenswear and
accessories collections as well as
fragrances.

99
Fidji Couture
(V. Haris köz 5)
Elegant shop just off Váci utca
features the finest in haute
and ready to wear from top
international brands – Dior,
Versace, Galliano and Lanvin – as
well as the house brand Madleine
for daring and sexy women.
Gucci
(VI. Andrássy út 23; www.gucci.com)
Gucci has been bringing fashion
dreams to life since 1921 and at
this location since 2008. Italy’s
iconic fashion house carries
on the tradition and quality
craftsmanship that has stood the
test of time.
Heaven
(V. Fehérhajó utca 12-14;
www.heavenstore.hu)
This multi-brand store near
Deák tér carries all that is hip
and cool in its slick, minimally
designed space. Stella McCartney,
Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga,
Dsquared2, Marc Jacobs and
Diane von Furstenburg for men
and women.
Hugo Boss
(V. Deák Ferenc utca 15;
www.fashionstreet.hu)
Featuring boldly among the
high-end shops on Budapest’s
Fashion Street – the ubiquitous
Boss brand. Flawless style and
sophistication from Boss Black
to more progressive renditions in
the Hugo line.
Lacoste
(V. Deák Ferenc utca 21;
www.fashionstreet.hu)
The petit-piqué shirt with its
iconic alligator was dreamt up by
tennis champion René Lacoste in
1933. In the 80s it became a staple
of preppy chic, but the brand has
since reinvented itself to feature
youthful and dapper sportswear
and accessories for both sexes.
Louis Vuitton
(VI. Andrássy út 24; www.louisvuitton.eu)
The first luxury boutique to open
on Andrássy út and not long after,
most of the world’s big fashion
houses followed suit. Vuitton
made his mark as an innovative
bag designer in the mid-1800s.
Now LV is the symbol of absolute
luxury. This store carries bags,
luggage and accessories only.
Massimo Dutti
(V. Deák Ferenc utca corner and Bécsi
utca 5; www.massimodutti.com)
Spanish retail chain proffers
affordable clothing for men,
women and children a few
notches above sister franchise
Zara. Classic styles with a
contemporary edge.
Max Mara
(VI. Andrássy út 21; www.maxmara.com)
Spanning 300 square meters
over two f loors, Max Mara
proffers minimal pieces with a
refreshingly contemporary style.
For women only.
Moncler
(VI. Andrássy út 23; www.moncler.com)
French outerwear specialists
Moncler recently opened a shop
on Budapest’s luxury lane. This
is their first in Eastern Europe.
Several collections of down
apparel and accessories for active
men and women.

Fashion
Shoes & Accessories
100
Shoes
Buday Shoes
(V. Haris köz 2; www.budayshoes.com)
Hand-crafted shoes and home of
the original ‘Budapester’, Buday
creates masterpieces for men’s
feet. Vintage-design brogues in
less traditional colors and newer
styles in racy reds, yellows and
blues let the wearer be daring.
Care of craftsmanship even
extend to the soles of the shoe.
Take a peek in the workshop to
watch the shoemaking process
unfold before ordering your
bespoke pair.
rekavago
(XIII. Szent István park 2;
www.rekavago.com)
Often referred to as the Blahnik
of Hungary, and for good
reason, Réka Vágó produces
irresistible temptations for the
feet. Formerly a ballet dancer who
has first-hand experience with
compromising footwear, Vágó
went on to create haute-couture
styles that are not only high on
design but comfortable to wear.
Chic bags and shoes for brides.
Tisza Cipo
(VII. Károly körút 1; www.tiszacipo.hu)
For nearly 20 years, this was
communist Hungary’s answer
to adidas. In its early days, Tisza
produced footwear solely for
socialist countries with the first
sports line hitting the shelves in
the early 1970s. With the fall of
communism and the arrival of
Western brands, their popularity
declined but now that commiechic
is back in style, Tisza shoes
have also made a comeback.
Vass
(V. Haris köz 2;
www.vass-cipo.hu)
Leading bespoke shoemaker
László Vass comes from a long
line of craftsmen and he along
with his daughter Éva are the
team behind these sought-after
pieces, which have developed an
international following. Classic
and modern designs in a wide
range of colors are crafted by
hand using age-old techniques
and high quality materials.
Shoes for women and limited
accessories also available.
Accessories
Anh Tuan
(VI. Rózsa utca 74, by appointment;
www.anh-tuan.com)
Vietnamese-born designer Luu
Anh Tuan creates luxurious
pieces in leather including bags,
belts and bracelets crafted using
Tuan’s signature techniques.
His coveted line has recently
been expanded to include
womenswear, which matches
the refined sophistication of
his accessories. Pay a visit to his
spacious studio to peruse these
essential fashion items.
Ékes Kesztyu
(V. Régiposta utca 14)
Living on a reputation 130 years
in the making, this tiny familyrun
artisanal store makes gloves
in sumptuous leathers, including
boarskin, by hand. Traditional
methods passed down through
generations of craftsmen may
be part of a dying trade but the
international recognition of this
shop proves that demand for
quality is still high. Ékes gloves
stand the test of time.

101
Gallwitz Pipes & Pearls
(V. Régiposta utca 7-9;
www.gallwitz.hu)
Founded in 1880 by Leopold
Gallwitz, this small shop tucked
away in a courtyard near the
Danube carries on the tradition
of selling pipes and accessories
and walking sticks as well as
pearls and other jewelry. Handmade
and antique pipes and
mahjong sets also available.
Icons by Bizanc
(V. Petőfi Sándor utca 20;
www.bizanc.com)
Luxury multi-brand shop in an
opulent and historic setting.
Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano,
John Richmond, Marc Jacobs,
Salvatore Ferragamo et al – the
focus being on footwear, limited
outerwear, and other essential
accessories.
Laoni
(VII. Klauzál tér 1; www.laoni.hu)
Ilona Ács’s artistic vision comes
to life in her smart and colorful
range of leather accessories from
wallets to handbags and footwear.
Madison
(VI. Andrássy út 26;
www.madisonperfumery.com)
Titillate your olfactory senses
at this exclusive boutique set
up in a fin-de-siècle pharmacy.
Madison proffers hard-to-find
scents for the body and the home
from Clive Christian, L’Artisan
Parfumeur to the latest in scent
technology, Blood Concept, plus
many more.
Tipton Eyewear
(V. Belgrád rakpart 26, first floor,
by appointment; www.tipton.hu)
Visit Tipton’s dedicated
showroom on the Pest
embankment and pick out your
favorite model and strip of
celluloid – from communist-era
footage to more explicit content
– and get a custom fitting.
Hungarian-American Zachary
Tipton creates popular pieces
including his Cinematique line
which uses salvaged 16mm and
35mm film fitted into stainless
steel frames. Tipton’s Vinylize
collection features frames made
of recycled vinyl records.
Valéria Fazekas
(V. Váci utca 50;
www.valeriafazekas.com)
Hat designer Valéria Fazekas
takes the art of millinery to
a whole new level with her
sculptural and decorative
headpieces in beautiful shapes
and colors. A graduate of the
Hungarian Academy of Crafts
and Design, Fazekas approaches
the creative process with the eye
of an artist creating beautiful
forms of wearable art.

Fashion
Jewelry
102
Baraka Diamond
(V. Párizsi utca 3;
www.barakadiamond.hu)
One of the few retailers in
Budapest to carry such an
extensive range of luxury goods
including watches by Hublot,
Daniel Roth and Ulysse Nardin.
For the ladies, this small shop
off Váci utca stocks jewelry from
house brand Baraka out of Italy
as well as Bvlgari, Valente, la
Nouvelle Bague, Furrer Jacot and
more. Watch repair also available.
Caprice
(VI. Andrássy út 27; www.caprice.co.hu)
An international team of
designers creates must-have
pieces for diamond lovers. With
a wide selections of stones to
choose from Caprice caters to
many tastes, from delicate to
robust while remaining firmly
rooted in tradition.
Freywille
(VI. Andrássy út 43; www.frey-wille.com)
Brilliant colors, beautiful
enamel work set in gold or silver
frames, Freywille’s designs
are inspired by the art of
Viennese Secessionism, French
Impressionism and graphic
design, and presented in intricate
geometric patterns to dress up
your wrists and your neckline.
Nearly a hundred boutiques
worldwide and a devoted
following.
Filter
(XIII. Pozsonyi út 49;
www.filtergaleria.hu)
Contemporary jewelry design
from a gifted team of up-andcoming
Hungarian designers
in one-off and limited series.
A small corner shop near Szent
István Park proffers classic as
well as more modern pieces
mostly in sterling silver or less
conventional materials such as
ebony, alpaca and Corian. Dare to
be different.
Hublot
(VI. Andrássy út; www.hublot.com)
Creating Swiss watches that
tell more than the time, Hublot
currently manufactures the
world’s most expensive watch
with a five-million-dollar price
tag. Their fusion of functional
and precious materials comprises
the aesthetic of this coveted
brand. Shop or relax in the VIP
lounge or grab a drink at the bar.
Sterling Galéria
(IX. Ráday utca 31;
www.sterling-galeria.hu)
Unique and limited series
creations in a shop and gallery,
which offers display space to
a gifted roster of local jewelry
designers, many of whom are
affiliated with the MOME
University of Art & Design and
jewelry guru Péter Vladimir
(Wladis). The material of choice is
sterling, of course.
Thomas Sabo
(V. Kristóf tér 6; www.thomassabo.com)
From small town Bavaria to
the big league, Sabo produces
original designs in sterling silver,
often dressed up with diamonds
or semi precious stones. Classic
and contemporary styles and the
‘Rebel at Heart’ series for men,
including watches.

103
Varga Design
(V. Haris köz 6; www.vargadesign.hu)
Rich and delicate pieces made
of platinum, gold, silver and
Tahitian pearls. Miklós Varga’s
signature cobweb technique,
which features in most of his
designs, imbues his work with an
organic texture. Also produces
rugged and inventive jewelry for
men.
Wladis Galéria
és Muterem
(V. Falk Miksa utca 13;
www.wladisgaleria.hu)
Metalsmith and professor at
the University of Art & Design,
Péter Vladimir produces bold
and singular pieces. A fusion
of old-world and contemporary
styles in sterling, embellished
with polished crystal and leather
trimmings. Wearing one may
inspire a mystical experience.

Antiques
The collector’s paradise
104
BÁV
(V. Bécsi utca 1-3; www.bav.hu)
This state-run operation is
the oldest auction house in
Hungary with several outlets
in the capital, each focusing on
particular branches of antiques
from paintings to furniture,
carpets, statuettes, decorative
art and jewelry. BÁV shops are
identifiable by the maroon-andwhite
Venus de Milo sign, but
only the central outlet on Bécsi
utca – the largest of all – holds
auctions; one in May and another
in November.
Ernst Galéria
(V. Irányi utca 27, V. Zrínyi utca 14;
www.ernstgaleria.hu)
This elegant shop specializes
in paintings from the 1800s
and 1900s, graphic arts and
furniture from the early 1900s
including beautiful examples
of Secessionist, Art-Deco and
Bauhaus styles. Ernst also has
an impressive collection of
decorative ceramics from the
1930s and 1940s as well as vintage
art books, propaganda and film
posters – some are part of the
gallery’s permanent collection
while others are for sale. The
downtown location frequently
hold exhibits.
Gallery 5*6*7*
(VI. Benczúr utca 2;
www.gallery567.hu)
Belgian-born collector Peter
Langh has a deep appreciation
for ‘souvenirs of dictatorship’ –
manufactured behind the Iron
Curtain between the late 1940s
and the 1980s. Retro furniture
and lighting to EU standard
feature alongside paintings,
ceramics and wall carpets, all
the way to copycats of Danish
furniture designer Panton
Verner. Bauhaus and Art-Deco
finds occasionally make an
appearance.
Központi Antikvárium
(V. Múzeum körút 13-15;
www.kozpontiantikvarium.hu)
The Központi Antikvárium’s
collection consists largely of
antique books, such as works
written by theologians and
monks more than 300 years ago.
Languages covered include Latin,
German, French and Hungarian.
Also featured in its collection
are engravings and maps from
the Middle Ages. They hold four
auctions per year – two in the
spring and two before Christmas.
Montparnasse
(V. Falk Miksa utca 10;
www.montparnasse.co.uk)
As the name suggests, the focus
at Montparnasse is on French
antiques, particularly from the
1930s when Art Deco was all the
rage. The shop’s proprietor Beáta
Szabó studied linguistics at the
Sorbonne and interior design
in Brighton and has a penchant
for striking antique pieces,
lovingly restored dining room
sets, display cabinets and myriad
decorative items.
Móró Antik
(V. Falk Miksa utca 13;
www.moroantik.hu)
Local connoisseurs of antique
firearms, swords and exotic
pieces of Eastern art such as

105
statuettes, etchings, paintings
and Chinese porcelain. Moró
also boasts a rare and extensive
collection of walking sticks
embellished with ivory and silver.
Exhibits are often held for their
latest acquisitions.
Nagyházi Gallery
(V. Balaton utca 8; www.nagyhazi.hu)
A dedicated team of art historians
will guide you through a firstclass
collection of 19th and 20th
century paintings, Biedermeier
furniture, carpets, decorative
pieces, folk art as well as
jewelry. With at least ten and as
many as 20 auctions scheduled
throughout the year, there are
plenty of opportunities to make
a bid on rare finds. Renowned
pieces sold at previous auctions
include works by Titian and
Johann Michael Rottmayr.
Nemes Gallery
(V. Falk Miksa utca 28;
www.nemesgaleria.hu)
Owner and founder Gyula Nemes
opened his first gallery in 1994
and later expanded the operation
to include a shop in Buda
behind Széll Kálmán tér. The
gallery’s specialty is Hungarian
paintings and graphic art from
the 19th and 20th centuries, with
the occasional appearance of
international masterpieces of the
16th to 20th centuries. Furniture
and ceramics also feature in their
collection.
Ómama Antik
(II. Frankel Leó út 7;
www.omamaantik.hu)
In a category all its own, Ómama
proffers antique and vintage
clothing – Christian Dior, Gucci,
Gianfranco Ferré – as well as
vintage costume jewelry and
sundry accessories and textiles.
Their rich stock also includes
ceramics, porcelain, furniture
and assorted homewares from the
1920s to present day. Sister store
in Pest, Ómama Bizsuja (V. Szent
István körút 1) carries decorative
pieces for the home as well as
silverwork and antique jewelry
from such visionaries as Chanel
and Coro. The period in focus is
the 1850s to the 1960s.
Pintér Antik
(V. Falk Miksa utca 10;
www.pinterantik.hu)
The labyrinthine space of
Pintér Antiques spans 2,000
square meters, and is filled
to the brim with antique
furniture, carpets, Art-Deco and
Secessionist chandeliers as well
as paintings from the 19th and
20th centuries. The adjoining
Szonja Pintér Gallery specializes
in contemporary Hungarian
painting and sculpture. Should
you tire from the adventure of
perusing the vast treasury, you
can take a break in the café.
Auctions held approximately once
a month and more frequently in
December. Restoration services
are available for items purchased
in-house.

Books & Music
Read, listen, enjoy!
106
Books
Alexandra Könyvesház
(VI. Andrássy út 39; www.alexandra.hu)
Housed in the beautifully
refurbished Secessionist Párizsi
Nagyáruház, Alexandra features a
large atrium several stories high
and about 2,000 titles in English,
from classic, contemporary
and popular literature to large
picture books, CDs and DVDs.
But this branch of the Hungarian
chain offers much more. There’s
Hungarian wine for sale by the
entrance and an opulent café on
the upper level bedecked with
beautiful ceiling frescoes by
Károly Lotz, ornate chandeliers
and a grand piano.
Bestsellers
(V. Október 6. utca 11;
www.bestsellers.hu)
In business for two decades,
Bestsellers has a reputation as the
expats’ favorite, and with about
10,000 titles on the shelves, it’s
easy to see why. Apart from an
excellent collection of fiction,
it also stocks professional and
academic publications – and
whatever you can’t find they’ll
happily order. New arrivals from
the UK and the USA every week
as well as English, French and
German periodicals.
Book Station
(XIII. Katona József utca 13;
www.bookstation.hu)
This under-appreciated gem
carries one of the city’s largest
collections of English-language
fiction with over 5,000 works
of contemporary and pop lit.
You’ll also find the latest from
top authors and special orders
can be filled relatively quickly.
Their range of non-fiction covers
topics such as politics, history,
languages as well as books for
children. Used books in English,
French and German can be found
in the cellar.
Írók Boltja
(VI. Andrássy út 45; www.irokboltja.hu)
Once home to a renowned literary
coffee house from the turn of
the previous century, the Írók
Boltja followed in its literary
footsteps and opened at the site
of the café over two decades ago.
They stock several Hungarian
books in translation as well as
a decent selection of bestsellers
and publications on philosophy,
travel and art. The makeshift
café on-site is put to good use
for regularly scheduled book
launches and readings usually
held in Hungarian.
Massolit
(VII. Nagydiófa utca 30-32;
www.massolit.hu)
This lovely shop in the heart of
the Jewish Quarter is the local
branch of a popular bookstore
in Krakow. Massolit stocks titles
on Jewish culture in Central and
Eastern Europe, as well as politics
and history of the region, gender
studies plus a number of works
by Central and Eastern European
writers in English. What’s most
unique about Massolit is its
regularly scheduled Englishlanguage
readings and wonderful
café where you’ll find Americanstyle
cakes, quiche and great
coffee – a reason alone to come
here.

107
Pendragon
(XIII. Pozsonyi út 21-23;
www.pendragon.hu)
Located in the upmarket
residential District XIII,
Pendragon features many of the
latest pop-lit titles in English as
well as books on film, art and
music. Travel guides and books
for children are also available, at
prices that are hard to beat.
Stúdium könyvesbolt
(V. Váci utca 22)
Part of the Libri chain, Stúdium
carries books in English with
about 1,000 titles of classic,
contemporary and popular
literature. Among the non-fiction
titles are books on travel, sport
and biographies as well as a small
selection of Hungarian novels in
translation.
Music
Concerto Records
(VII. Dob utca 33;
www.recordstoreday.com)
A veteran of local music trade,
Concerto carries some rarities
on vinyl and CD, both new and
second-hand. Its strength lies in
classical but it also stocks jazz,
folk and pop recordings.
Kodály Zoltán
Zenemubolt és
Antikvárium
(V. Múzeum körút 21)
Despite the name, which pays
tribute to one of Hungary’s
greatest composers and
musicologists, this shop sells
more than just classical music. A
collection of LPs, CDs, DVD and
old 78s also features jazz, folk and
pop. A substantial collection of
sheet music complements books
about music theory and history.
Laci Bácsi Lemezboltja
(VII. Kertész utca 42;
www.hanglemezek.hu)
Vinyl aficionados who yearn for
Hungarian rarities from the
1960s, 70s and 80s will likely find
what they’re looking for here.
Proprietor László Molnár (aka
Laci bácsi) has been collecting
vinyl since he was a boy and he
opened this shop over a decade
ago when he ran out of room to
store his collection. If Molnár
doesn’t stock it, there’s a pretty
good chance it wasn’t even
released on vinyl.
Rózsavölgyi
Zenemubolt
(V. Szervita tér 5; www.rozsavolgyi.hu)
First opened by a fatherand-son
team in 1850, this
shop became the site of many
wonderful concerts, including
one by Debussy nearly 100 years
ago. Sheet music and classical
recordings can be found on the
main f loor, pop and jazz in the
cellar, a bookstore and ticket
agent on the second, and a café
and concert venue on the top
f loor, overlooking the square.
Wave
(VI. Révay köz 1; www.wave.hu)
Wave has been operating out
of this tiny shop since 1989,
stocking new and used vinyl, CDs
and DVDs for inquisitive music
collectors. Still a favorite among
visiting musicians and DJs in
search of more off-the-cuff and
hard-to-find releases.

Just for Kids
Fun stuff to see & do
108
Animal Attractions
Budapest Zoo
Fovárosi Állatés
Növénykert
(XIV. Állatkerti körút 6-12;
www.zoobudapest.com)
In the past decade the zoo
has undergone substantial
renovations, from improved
enclosures for the animals to
English-friendly maps and guides
and exciting interactive exhibits.
Nearly a thousand species and 11
hectares to explore.
Margaret Island
petting zoo
Margitszigeti
Vadaskert
(XIII. Margitsziget;
www.zoobudapest.com)
Close to the city center and set
in the middle of the Danube,
Margaret Island has ample green
space for a fun day out as well
as a small petting zoo on its
eastern edge, which is home to
domesticated and wild mammals
as well as an assortment birds,
including the resident peacock.
Closed for the winter season.
Tropicarium
(XXII. Nagytétényi út 37-43;
www.tropicarium.hu)
One of the largest sea aquariums
in Central Europe is situated
deep in South Buda. It holds
eight sharks, including sand
tiger and leopard sharks as well
as hundreds of other species
viewable through an observation
tunnel. Come face to face
with a Mississippi alligator
or visit the Tropicarium’s
smaller inhabitants such as the
marmosets, snakes, lizards, exotic
birds and insects.
Children’s Shows
Budapest Circus
Fovárosi Nagycirkusz
(XIV. Állatkerti körút 7; www.fnc.hu)
Located in City Park, right next
to the zoo, the Budapest Circus
has shows throughout the year
in a permanent space, which
has been designed to resemble
a traditional circus tent. All the
standard circus fare is featured
in the program from animal
shows, to magicians and acrobatic
performance.
Palace of Arts
Muvészetek Palotája
(IX. Komor Marcell utca 1;
www.mupa.hu)
A choice venue for classical
concerts, the MUPA is also a
wonderful place to introduce
children to classical music in a
child-friendly and interactive
format. Half-hour Baby Concerts
are suitable for 0-12 month olds
while the MUS-E series for older
children features elements of
dance, theatre and visual arts.
Museums
Hungarian
Railway Museum
Vasúttörténeti Park
(XIV. Tatai út 95;
www.vasuttortenetipark.hu)
The perfect diversion for little
boys, the Railway Museum has a
wonderful assortment of vintage
trains and steam engines, many
of which are stored in an original
roundhouse built in 1911. Hop on
board stationary trains or go for a
virtual test drive in a Hungarian
railway engine. Closed for the
winter season.

109
Natural
History Museum
Magyar
Természettudományi
Múzeum
(VIII. Ludovika tér 2-6;
www.nhmus.hu)
Suspended from the ceiling at
the entrance of the museum is
a skeleton of a fin whale caught
in the Atlantic in 1896. Other
highlights include a 122-squaremeter
glass f loor under which
you can observe replicas of
several species of coral. The
museum also features stuffed
animals and dioramas of wildlife
from the Carpathian Basin.
Palace of Miracles
Csodák palotája
(XXII. Nagytétényi út 37-43;
www.csodakpalotaja.hu)
Recently moved to a shopping
mall in South Buda, the Palace
of Miracles is one of Budapest’s
most modern, child-friendly
museums. It presents scientific
concepts to eager young minds
in an easy to understand and fun
format. Explore the physics of
sound on the giant Slapophone,
find out how planes f ly in the
Wind Channel or feel what it’s
like to walk on the moon.
Trains & Rides
Challengeland
Csillebérci Kalandpark
(XII. Konkoly Thege Miklós út 21;
www.kalandpalya.com)
Adjacent to the Csillebérci youth
club in the Normafa forest,
Challengeland is filled with fun
obstacles for all skill levels: a rope
course suspended from the trees,
a climbing wall and exhilarating
team-building exercises. Closed
during the winter season.
Children’s railway
Széchenyi-hegyi
gyermekvasút
(www.gyermekvasut.hu)
Board the children’s railway at
any stop along its 11-km route
through the beautiful forests
of the Buda Hills. What’s most
fascinating about this railway is
that it’s operated by children –
under the supervision of an adult
attendant, of course.
Toy Shops
Babaház
(IX. Ráday utca 14; www.dollhouse.
uw.hu)
Beautiful dolls reminiscent of
another era fill this shop on a
street otherwise devoted to cafés
and restaurants. You won’t find
a single Barbie, only delicate
creations made of real porcelain.
Fakopáncs Fajátékbolt
(VIII. Baross utca 46, VIII. József
körút, VII. Erzsébet körút 23;
www.fakopancs.hu)
Part of a chain of toy stores
offering everything from finger
puppets, wooden toys, and
cognitive games for children of
all ages – the emphasis being on
non-electric toys made of wood.
Játékszerek Anno
(VI. Teréz körút 54; www.jatekanno.hu)
A wonderful collection of old
toys and authentic copies feature
in this charming shop; retro
novelty toys also for sale. Watch
for monthly exhibitions of
Hungarian toys made of tin and
other curiosities.

Homewares & Interior Design
Unleash the designer in you!
110
Ajka Crystal
(V. József Attila utca 7;
www.ajka-crystal.hu)
Renowned Hungarian crystal
manufacturer opened its first
factory in the small town of Ajka
over 130 years ago. It has since
become one of the main suppliers
of international collections from
Wedgwood to Tiffany’s, Fabergé
and Christian Dior. Handpainted
china also available.
Arioso
(VII. Király utca 9; www.arioso.hu)
Fine cakes, coffees and fanciful
pieces for the home. The design
shop at the rear of the café stocks
decorative candles, silk flowers,
flatware, oversized vases and
other home furnishings. Take a
seat in the atmospheric courtyard
and enjoy a sweet treat, pre- or
post-shop.
Aron Design Store
(V. Deák tér 4, XIII. Jászai Mari tér
4B; www.aron-store.com)
Pick up hot contemporary design
items from all over the world.
This compact shop by Deák tér
metro stocks endless trinkets:
watches from Danish Design
and Jacob Jensen, Alessi and
Joseph Joseph kitchenware, Lexon
and Nava bags and the MoMA
‘Perpetual Calendar’. Locally
produced goods also make great
souvenirs.
Bomo Art Budapest
(V. Régiposta utca 14; www.bomoart.hu)
Write it all down in a beautiful,
leather bound diary from Bomo
Art. Photo albums, postcards
and wrapping paper also feature
in its collection as do tastefully
designed praxinoscopes and
kaleidoscopes.
Eventuell
(V. Nyáry Pál utca 7; www.eventuell.hu)
Hand-made textiles for home and
body by a collective of Hungarian
designers. Choose from felted
or silk pillows, bedspreads,
curtains and throw rugs made
of sumptuous yarns in brilliant
colors, or limited series handdied
fabrics as well as jewelry and
scarves in a small shop just off
Váci utca.
Herend
(VI. Andrássy út 16; www.herend.com)
Delicate, and coveted creations
with an international following.
Each piece of Herend porcelain
is carefully crafted and decorated
with intricate hand-painted
motifs in an endless array
of patterns from classic to
contemporary. Tea sets, place
settings and extra large pieces
that make an impression.
Innoshop
(V. Kecskeméti utca 8;
www.innoshop.hu)
Home accessories, trinkets
and furnishings from some
of the world's most soughtafter
contemporary designers:
Normann Copenhagen lamps,
Guzzini kitchenware, audio
components by Tivoli, as well as
hand-crafted wares from local
ceramics designer Judit Lántos.
Kéttemplom Galéria
(VI. Paulay Ede utca 10;
www.kettemplom.hu)
Country-style interiors, rustic
accessories and a handful of older

111
pieces, refurbished with loving
care, such as antique trunks and
armoires. Kéttemplom also stocks
flatware, textiles, home scents
and seasonal decorations.
Kilim
(V. Irányi utca 5; www.kilim.hu)
No need to travel to Persia or
Pakistan when you can choose
from a vast selection of beautiful
kilims right here in Budapest.
New and antique rugs to dress up
any household. Also carries handwoven
wool and silk scarves in
vivid colors.
Magma
(V. Petőfi Sándor utca 11;
www.magma.hu)
A Hungarian-only assortment
of unique decorative pieces and
more substantial furnishings.
The shop’s proprietor Anikó
Vásárhelyi celebrates the
underrepresented talents of local
artisans who produce everything
from embroidered pillows to
ceramics, jewelry, glassware,
plush toys and all manner of
folksy fare.
Originart
(V. Arany János utca 18;
www.originart.hu)
Quirky designs to remind
you of your stay in Budapest,
Originart stocks a fun and
colorful collection of souvenirs
such as hand-painted enamel and
ceramic mugs, jewelry, plush toys
and postcards in a small shop
filled to the brim with goodies.
Pure Home Design
(XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 22;
www.purehome.hu)
Dress up your abode with Pure
Home’s smart and moderately
rustic collection of furniture,
tableware, glassware and lighting
fixtures. What you see in the
stylish showroom is only the tip
of the iceberg.
roomba
(V. Arany János utca 29;
www.roombahome.hu)
Leather furnishings from
Baxter and Flexform – including
modular pieces – created by
a team of talented Italian
designers. Lamps by Italamp,
Occhio and Windfall and
glassware by Anna Torfs and
BS Collection, all at a freshly
refurbished downtown space.
Zsolnay
(V. Hercegprímás utca 12;
www.bazilikagaleria.com)
Some prefer Herend while others
lean towards the simplicity of
Zsolnay. Their signature eosin
glazing technique imbues ornate
ceramic pieces with an iridescent
glow. Beautiful vases feature
alongside unique jewelry created
by local designers, paintings
and more traditional tableware.
A stroll through Budapest will
reveal Zsolnay’s impact on the
architecture of the early 20th
century in the form of colorful
tiles: the Four Seasons Hotel
Gresham Palace is one such fine
example.

Galleries
Budapest’s contemporary art scene
112
Art Factory
(XIII. Vizafogó utca 2;
www.budapestartfactory.com)
A large industrial space brought
to life by a dynamic collective of
painters who met at art school
and work in the contemporary
vein from figurative to more
abstract styles. Some of their
pieces grace the walls of the Four
Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace
while others have been exhibited
throughout Europe and the
United States.
Deák Erika Gallery
(VI. Mozsár utca 1;
www.deakgaleria.hu)
This commercial gallery
represents nearly two dozen
contemporary artists. Director,
Erika Deák, gained valuable
experience in the art galleries
of New York before returning
to Budapest to set up her own
space. The focus is primarily
on painting and new media
and features some of the hottest
contemporary artists in the
region, such as Attila Szűcs and
Alexander Tinei.
Kálmán Makláry Fine
Arts Gallery
(V. Falk Miksa utca 10;
www.kalmanmaklary.com)
Kálmán Makláry represents
Hungarian artists who at one
point in their careers, lived and
worked in France, particularly
as part of the Post-War School
of Paris. The gallery's most
renowned, still active artists,
Judit Reigl is the only Hungarian
to exhibit her works at major
museums in New York, London
and Paris. Also presents works by
László Moholy-Nagy, Paul Kallos,
Geza Szobel and Tibor Csernus.
Kieselbach
(V. Szent István körút 5;
www.kieselbach.hu)
Private gallery, which functions
as both an exhibition space and
an auction house, was established
by art historian Tamás
Kieselbach. Privately-owned and
rare works are also presented
at non-selling exhibitions. The
emphasis is on Hungarian
painters from the 19th and 20th
centuries.
KnollGalériaBudapest
(VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 10;
www.knollgalerie.at)
Two decades in the making, this
private gallery above the terraces
of Liszt Ferenc tér was founded by
Austrian Hans Knoll in 1989. The
mandate of the Budapest branch
is to present artists from the
West, while the Vienna gallery
features artists from Central
Europe.
Kogart
(VI. Andrássy út 112; www.kogart.hu)
Entrepreneur and art collector
Gábor Kovács established the
Kogart House in 2004, in a
beautifully restored 19thcentury
villa complete with
museum, commercial gallery,
restaurant and lovely garden
terrace. Exhibits on the gallery’s
upper level feature emerging
Hungarian artists, while the
ground f loor is reserved for
Kovács’ private collection of
classics. The neighboring Kogart
Galéria hosts contemporary
Hungarian and international
artists.

113
Léna & Roselli Gallery
(V. Galamb utca 10;
www.lenaroselligallery.com)
Commercial art gallery in a
bright street level space between
Váci utca and the Danube. Léna
& Roselli's intent is to raise the
profile of Hungarian artists
throughout Central and Eastern
Europe. Entrance through the
clothing shop next door.
NextArt Gallery
(V. Aulich utca 4-6;
www.nextartgaleria.hu)
Forward-thinking gallery, which
showcases students and recent
graduates from Budapest’s
University of Art & Design.
Painters, photographers and
new media artists find common
ground and are frequently
involved in interactive events
organized by the gallery.
Platán Gallery
(VI. Andrássy út 32; www.polinst.hu/
platan/kiallitasok)
The Polish Institute's Platán
Gallery has forged a strong
relationship with contemporary
Hungarian artists by organizing
cultural exchanges with Poland
and site-specific installations.
Várfok Gallery
(I. Várfok utca 14; www.varfok
-galeria.hu)
One of the oldest private galleries
in Budapest, Várfok was founded
by avid art collector Károly
Szaloky in 1990. Strategically
located at the foot of Castle Hill,
the gallery currently boasts a
300-square-meter space and
a roster of 18 artists who have
remained throughout the years.
Also presents group shows for
emerging artists.
Virág Judit Gallery
(V. Falk Miksa utca 30;
www.viragjuditgaleria.hu)
Hungarian paintings from
the 19th and 20th century and
antique Zsolnay porcelain go up
for auction three times a year,
but works can also be purchased
through private sale. The gallery’s
remit has recently extended
to include the exhibition of
contemporary painters.
X6 Photo
Edition Gallery
(V. Október 6. utca 21;
www.x6gallery.com)
Downtown gallery represents
a large pool of international
photographers, both established
and emerging, in a bright
and modern space near the
Basilica. Part of an international
community brought together
by partner Lumas, its editions
are printed in large series for
the subsequent sale to collectors
around the world. ‘Limited
Editions’ are signed by the
photographer.

Museums
From art to artifacts
114
Aquincum Museum
(III. Szentendrei út 139;
www.aquincum.hu)
Set near the banks of the Danube
in Óbuda, the Aquincum
Museum comprises a large grassy
field filled with low walls and
the unearthed foundations of a
once thriving Roman settlement.
The refurbished museum
holds intricately restored
mosaics, statues, silver and gold
jewelry and one of the largest
archaeological collections in
the country. Its most impressive
display is of a functioning waterpowered
organ, a replica of which
can be played by visitors.
Béla Bartók
Memorial House
Bartók Béla Emlékház
(II. Csalán utca 29;
www.bartokmuseum.hu)
Originally built in 1924, this was
the last Hungarian residence
of Béla Bartók, one of the
country’s greatest composers and
ethnomusicologist, prior to his
immigration to the US in 1940.
It became a museum in 1981 on
the centenary of his birth but still
reflects the idyllic surroundings
Bartók enjoyed and which
inspired many of his greatest
works. The exhibits features the
composer’s personal belongings
including his Bösendorfer piano
and folksy artifacts acquired
during his research trips to
Transylvania. Classical concerts
are held in the intimate concert
hall and in the garden.
Budapest
History Museum
Budapesti
Történeti Múzeum
(I. Szent György tér 2; www.btm.hu)
Six exhibitions are on permanent
display at the Budapest History
Museum: 1000 years of Budapest
history, ancient peoples and
ancient cultures, silk tapestries
of the Hungarian-Anjou coat of
arms, the medieval Royal Palace,
Budapest in the Middle Ages and
Gothic sculptures from the Royal
Palace. A well-rounded exhibit,
which covers the history of the
capital in the most minute detail
from Roman times onward.
Ernst Museum
(VI. Nagymező utca 8;
www.ernstmuzeum.hu)
Operating under the umbrella of
the Kunsthalle public museum
at Heroes’ Square, Ernst feels
more like a private gallery
than a state-run operation. It
was commissioned in 1912 by
art collector Lajos Ernst in a
space, which previously served
as artists’ studios. Despite a
financially troubled history, it
remains an important venue for
the exhibition of contemporary
and modern art with a special
emphasis on the oeuvre of
Hungarian artists as well as
compelling thematic exhibits
from a selection of international
guests.
Holocaust
Memorial Center
Holokauszt
Emlékközpont
(IX. Páva utca 39; www.hdke.hu)
Venture out to south Pest
to witness one of the city’s
most compelling interactive
exhibits. Not as high profile as

115
the similarly themed House of
Terror Museum, the Holocaust
Memorial Center is equally
moving in its chronicling of the
Jewish and Roma Holocaust.
The exhibit is housed below the
memorial and opens with a dark
corridor illuminated by thin
white lines, which guide visitors
through a sad history lesson – to
the soundtrack of soldiers’ boots
crunching on gravel. Excerpts of
family stories and a film, which
focuses on one ominous day in
May 1944, at Auschwitz-Birkenau,
give vivid relevance to the pain
and suffering of these atrocities.
The walk concludes with a visit to
the synagogue.
House of
Terror Museum
Terror Háza Múzeum
(VI. Andrássy út 60;
www.terrorhaza.hu)
This infamous address was
once the headquarters of the
fascist Arrow Cross party during
World War II, and later the
ÁVO - Hungarian communist
Secret Police, where citizens were
brought in for questioning never
to be seen again. Set in the heart
of the villa district, the sinister
atmosphere pervades what is now
the House of Terror Museum.
The roof overhang with the
words ‘terror’ emblazoned across
it in mirror-reverse, is the most
visible element of this four-story
structure. Exhibits fascinates and
disturbs in equal measure, and
the cells and interrogation rooms
in the cellar are unchanged since
serving their original purpose
during the darkest days in
Hungary’s history.
Hungarian House of
Photography In Mai
Manó House
Magyar Fotográfusok
Háza - Mai Manó Ház
(VI. Nagymező utca 20;
www.maimano.hu)
Located at the heart of Budapest’s
Broadway, above a lovely café of
the same name, the Mai Manó
House was built for photographer
Manó Mai and his family in
1894. This gorgeous fin-desiècle
building was transformed
into a photography museum
in 1999 and has since played
an important role on the local
contemporary art scene. The
emphasis is on Hungarian
photography of the last century
while the works of international
photographers also feature in
their collection.
Hungarian
National Gallery
Magyar
Nemzeti Galéria
(I. Buda Palace Buildings, Szent
György tér 2; www.mng.hu)
The National Gallery’s
permanent collection chronicles
the history of Hungarian art
from the Middle Ages to Socialist
Realism of the 1950s, plus a
handful of more recent pieces.
Several works by renowned
Hungarian genre painter Mihály
Munkácsy are on display in a
separate wing. For wonderful
views, visit the museum on the
first Friday of every month for the
Wine Terrace (Borterasz) events to
savor the best of local vintages in
a beautiful setting.

116
Hungarian
National Museum
Magyar Nemzeti
Múzeum
(VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16;
www.hnm.hu)
Set in lovely, tree-lined grounds,
the National Museum is an
imposing neo-Classical building,
which showcases several
important collections. Begin the
tour with archaeological finds
from the region dating back
to 400,000 BC and on to the
founding of Hungary, through to
the Middle Ages and the Turkish
withdrawal in 1686. Highlights
of modern and contemporary
history pay special attention to
the 18th and 19th centuries and
the fall of communism in 1989.
General information on exhibits
is provided in English.
Kiscelli Museum
(III. Kiscelli utca 108; www.btm.hu)
As a branch of the Hungarian
History Museum, the Kiscelli
presents similarly significant
historical artifacts such as neo-
Baroque statues, old printing
presses and a replica of a 19thcentury
pharmacy. But the
adjacent Municipal Picture
Gallery tells a completely
different story. Contemporary
art exhibits, some of which are
held in the ruins of an old church
within the museum building,
have garnered considerable
attention on the contemporary
art scene.
Kunsthalle
Mucsarnok
(XIV. Dózsa György út 37;
www.mucsarnok.hu)
Set on the southern edge
of Heroes’ Square, the neo-
Classical Kunsthalle showcases
local and international artists
in a framework of temporary
thematic exhibitions. Built for
the millennial celebrations in
1896 as an exhibition hall for the
Society of Artists, it currently
presents artists working in
various mediums from painting
to sculpture, sound and
performance art. Recent exhibits
included ‘Mi a Magyar,’ a survey
of Hungarian national identity.
Ludwig Museum
(IX. Komor Marcell utca 1;
www.ludwigmuzeum.hu)
Occupying a large wing of
the Palace of Arts on the Pest
embankment, the Ludwig
Museum is the city’s go-to
destination for fans of
contemporary art. Significant
pop artists feature in the
permanent collection including
Andy Warhol, Claes Oldenburg
and Robert Rauschenberg. But
the focus remains on Eastern and
Central European art, with an
emphasis on Hungarian works
from the 1960s to present day.
Frequent temporary exhibits of
world-renowned modern and
contemporary artists.
Museum
of Applied Arts
Iparmuvészeti Múzeum
(IX. Üllői út 33-37; www.imm.hu)
A stunning example of the local
variation of Art Nouveau known
as Secessionism, the Museum
of Applied Arts was conceived
by renowned architect Ödon
Lechner in 1893. Some 400 pieces

117
currently on display ranging
from Boulle furniture, Brussels
lace, Viennese, Herend and
Zsolnay porcelain, Tiffany glass,
and period costumes.
Museum of
Ethnography
Néprajzi Múzeum
(V. Kossuth Lajos tér 12;
www.neprajz.hu)
Formerly the Ministry of Justice,
the Museum of Ethnography
features a monumental neo-
Renaissance façade and grand
main hall decorated with marble
columns and ceiling frescoes
by Károly Lotz. The permanent
exhibition chronicles Hungarian
folk art and customs, as well as
village life from the 18th century
to World War I. Temporary shows
of note include the annual ‘World
Press Photo’ exhibit.
Museum of Fine Arts
Szépmuvészeti Múzeum
(XIV. Dózsa György út 41;
www.szepmuveszeti.hu)
Touring exhibits of worldrenowned
masters feature in this
opulent neo-Classical building
adjacent to Heroes’ Square, but
the permanent collection is
reason enough to visit – French
romantics, Spanish Masters, a
wonderful selection of Venetians,
several Brueghels, a handful of
Leonardos and several works
from early Impressionist to post-
Impressionists. Also boasts a
collection of antiquities.
Vasarely Museum
(III. Szentlélek tér 6; www.vasarely.hu)
The Vasarely Museum was
established by the painter
himself, Pécs-born Viktor
Vasarely, to display works from
his extensive collection. He is
credited with inventing Op Art
in the 1960s: his juxtaposition
of colors and patterns created
the illusion of 3D space. Several
examples from this period and
his earlier efforts in commercial
art and graphic design are on
display at the museum which
occupies one of the wings of the
Zichy Castle. About 60 of the
400 works in the archives are on
display at any given time.
Zelnik István
Southeast Asian
Gold Museum
(VI. Andrássy út 110;
www.thegoldmuseum.eu)
Former diplomat Dr István
Zelnik collected numerous
precious artifacts on his travels
throughout Southeast Asia and
most of these are on display at
his museum in the villa district
of Andrássy út. Most are made of
gold and date from prehistoric
times to the 20th century, with
Buddha featuring prominently
throughout. Zelnik’s collection of
gold masks, which is frequently
on loan, is also said to surpass
that of the British Museum.

Monuments
A testament to history
118
Dohány Street
Synagogue
Dohány Utcai
Zsinagóga
Europe’s second largest
synagogue stands where Dohány
utca meets the Kiskörút, a short
walk from focal Astoria or Deák
tér. Designed in Moorish Revival
style by Viennese architect Lajos
Förster, the Dohány utca (or
‘Great’) Synagogue, the model
for the Central Synagogue in
Manhattan, was renovated during
the 1990s. Bright brickwork
glows in blue, yellow and red, the
heraldic colors of Budapest. The
building is only one of several
key features in a complex that
also contains a modest Jewish
Museum and the Heroes’ Temple,
both dating back to 1931. A later
inclusion to the museum is a
Holocaust Room – the Synagogue
stood just inside the war-time
Jewish Ghetto, and among
the post-1945 additions to the
complex are a Jewish Cemetery
and the Raoul Wallenberg
Holocaust Memorial Park.
Fisherman’s Bastion
Halászbásztya
A stark white confection of
seven towers and a panoramic
terrace offering a perfect view
of the Danube and Pest beyond,
the Fisherman’s Bastion is the
romantic creation of Frigyes
Schulek. This late 19th-century
architect, having taken more than
20 years to complete the equally
romanticized reconstruction
of nearby Matthias Church,
set about work using existing
portions of an old fortress that
once stood behind it. Guarded
by a statue of St Stephen on
horseback, Schulek’s neo-
Romanesque vantage point
suffered extensive damage in
World War II. His son János was
head of the project to restore it
in 1948. Today the Fisherman’s
Bastion, while still providing
incomparable vistas of the
Hungarian capital, has become
a somewhat tacky tourist trap,
visitors are too often pestered
by peddlers of embroidery and
Gypsy music.
Great Market Hall
Nagyvásárcsarnok
Budapest’s largest indoor
market was completely restored
and reopened in 1994, almost
a century after its original
inauguration. Back then, an
underground canal used to
run from the river nearby,
taking barges through the
Main Customs Office (today the
Budapest University of Economic
Science) and into the market.
Habsburg Emperor Franz Josef
was one particular customer that
inaugural year of 1897. After the
war, the Market Hall remained in
operation – famously, Margaret
Thatcher paid a visit in 1984
to bargain for paprika – but
was in dire need of repair. The
three-year renovation cost Ft4
billion and was completed with
a bright and distinctive Zsolnay
tile roof. Today some 180 stalls,
selling more than just produce,
are spread over three floors,
attracting as many as 30,000
shoppers six days a week – the
market is closed on Sundays.

119
Heroes’ Square
Hosök Tere
Budapest’s answer to the Arc
de Triomphe, Heroes’ Square
provides both a bookend to the
city’s Champs-Elysées, Andrássy
út, and a grand gateway to the
City Park. Its main feature is a
semi-circle of colonnades that
supports statues of Hungarian
kings and national heroes, from
St Stephen to Lajos Kossuth. The
square is one of several grandiose
monuments erected for the 1896
millennial celebrations to mark
the arrival of Hungarian tribes
to the region. What is less known
is the fact that five of these
statues were originally Habsburg
figures, replaced as part of postwar
reconstruction. At its center,
the square features a 36-meterhigh
statue of the Archangel
Gabriel holding the Holy Crown
of Hungary and the apostolic
double cross in each hand. On
each side of the square stand
the Műcsarnok gallery and the
Museum of Fine Arts, providing
suitable architectural gravitas.
Liberty Statue
Felszabadulási Emlékmu
Rising above Castle Hill, Gellért
Hill is topped by the Habsburg
fortress of Citadella, fronted by
a 14-meter-high statue of Lady
Liberty. Set atop a 26-meter
pedestal, the statue is visible
from all around the city. The
liberty in question refers to
the freeing of the city in 1945
by Soviet troops from Nazi
occupation – but the story is more
complex than that. According to
its sculptor, Zsigmond Kisfaludy-
Stróbl, the statue was originally
commissioned as a memorial to
the son of Admiral Horthy, who
died in a mysterious air crash on
the Eastern Front in 1942. Others
say the work is pure Soviet, a rare
example of Stalin-era statuary
that surprisingly hasn’t been
shipped off to Memento Park on
the outskirts of town. After 1989,
the post-war inscription was
changed to honor ‘all those’ who
gave their lives for the freedom
of Hungary, rather than just the
‘Soviet heroes’.
Matthias Church
Mátyás Templom
A church has stood on this spot
for more than a thousand years
but the somewhat romanticized
edifice you see today is due
almost entirely to the work
of 19th-century architect
Frigyes Schulek. The Church
of Our Lady, as it was known
until modern times, was first
transformed by enlightened 15thcentury
ruler King Mátyás, who
was twice married here. After
capturing Buda in 1541, the Turks
converted it into a mosque, its
now bland interior a plain place
of worship. Much was damaged
145 years later when the Turks
were driven out and it was 200
years before Schulek devised a
new church, brick by brick, in his
own neo-Gothic style. Keeping
to an original 13th-century layout,
Schulek added decorative
details, such as the gargoylebedecked
stone spire and, most
notably, bright Zsolnay roofing.
On summer evenings, the church
hosts classical concerts.

120
Parliament
Országház
The Hungarian Parliament
remains the largest building in
Hungary, more than a century
after its opening. Vaguely
modeled on London’s Palace
of Westminster and built at
the significant height of 96
meters (896 being perceived
as the time of the Magyar
conquest, prompting the
millennial celebrations and
huge architectural development
around the pivotal year of 1896),
the Országház makes effective
use of its location, a slight curve
in the Danube on the Pest side.
Designed by Imre Steindl, said
to have gone blind before his
creation was complete, it befits
the dual capital of a major
European empire. Governing
Hungary today takes up less than
15 per cent of the space and some
of its 691 rooms have actually
never been fully used. Guided
tours take in the ornamental
staircase, ceiling frescoes and
Holy Crown of Hungary.
Royal Palace
Királyi-Palota
Today’s Royal Palace atop Castle
Hill bears little resemblance
to the sumptuous Renaissance
court devised by King Mátyás
in the latter half of the 15th
century. The delicate Italianate
decor, the golden ceilings, the
corridor lined with frescoes
and, most notably, one of the
greatest libraries in medieval
Europe, all was laid to ruin in
1686 when Buda was captured by
a pan-Christian force from the
Turks. Apart from pinching a few
books, the occupying Sultan had
barely touched this Renaissance
masterpiece during the 145-year
Ottoman occupation. Razed
in the early 1700s, the palace
underwent several rebuilds in
the Habsburg era but didn’t
survive the brutal combat of
early 1945. It took 30 years for the
complete rebuilding of the palace
complex, which now contains the
Hungarian National Gallery, the
National Széchényi Library and
the Budapest History Museum.
St Stephen’s Basilica
Szent István Bazilika
More than five decades in the
making, the Basilica is named
after Hungary’s patron saint,
whose mummified ‘Sacred Right’
hand is on display in its own
side chapel. The city’s largest
and most important church
dominates the downtown square
of the same saint’s name, its
huge dome of equal height as
the Parliament building a short
distance away. Both Basilica and
Parliament were inaugurated as
part of the Magyar millennial
celebrations at the turn of the last
century. As well as the colorful
frescoes in the ceiling, the main
attraction for tourists is the
panoramic view of Budapest
provided by the dome, accessed
by elevator or a daunting 364
steps. The Sacred Right hand of
St Stephen, Hungary’s first king,
is the centerpiece of the religious
procession that takes place here
and on the adjoining square every
20 August, his saint’s day and a
major national celebration.

121

Food & Drink
Treats on the go!
122
Specialty foods
Baldaszti’s Market
(I. Lánchíd utca 5; www.baldasztis.com)
With a strategic location at the
foot of Castle Hill, Baldaszti’s
has truly cornered its market.
Gourmands beware, for the rare
stock at this premium food shop
is among the best in Budapest:
a full range of imported fare,
Asian sauces, Italian pastas,
French terrine, Clearspring
organic products and fresh
olive oil dispensed from an
atomizer. Superb local products
also feature at the deli counter
including mangalica bacon with
truffles, grey-cattle salami and
aged hams. Sample all these fine
ingredients at work in the bistro
next door.
Culináris
(V. Balassi Bálint utca 7;
www.culinaris.hu)
Culináris was the first shop to
bring imported delicacies to
Hungary and now runs three
shops with an ever-expanding
stock. Fresh fish, steak, aged
cheeses, Beluga caviar, duck
rillette and freshly baked breads
are just some of the wonderful
produce on offer. Add to that a
freezer full of Häagen-Dazs, and
a good selection of wines, spirits
and imported beers, and you may
never leave. A small dining hall
at the front serves tasty breakfast
and lunch. Open until 7pm on
Sundays.
Sarki Fuszeres
(XIII. Pozsonyi út 53;
www.sarkifuszeres.hu)
The ‘Corner Spice Shop’ caters
mostly to area locals of upmarket
District XIII, in search of
imported cheeses, aged hams and
wines from all over the world, as
well as champagnes. Chocolate,
spices and rare olive oils also
grace the shelves. Occupying
the front corner of an acuteangled
residential building,
the interior mirrors this shape.
Curved windows offer a view of
foot traffic and provide a nook to
sample freshly baked goods along
with you cappuccino.
Chocolate
Cadeau Csokoládé
(V. Veres Pálné utca 8;
www.cadeaubonbon.hu)
The name Cadeau pays homage to
a flourishing trade of Hungarian
bonbon manufacturers between
the two world wars. Based out of
Gyula with a small shop in the
city center, Cadeau brings to the
table 80 varieties of hand-made
bonbons and truffles made of
Belgian chocolate, pistachio or
almond marzipan, and infused
with Tokaj Aszú, Hungarian
liqueurs or whisky. Also bonbon
replicas of renowned Hungarian
cakes such as Eszterházy and
Sacher.
Keserédes
(XIII. Katona József utca 22;
www.keseredes.hu)
Artisan chocolatier creates
irresistible chocolate sensations
in multiple flavors, shapes
and sizes. Pralines, truffles,
bonbons, salty caramel, chili- and
lavender-flavored chocolate or
more subdued and traditional
flavors. Dark chocolate bars made

123
of cocoa from all over the world
and decorated with signature
Keserédes designs. Master
craftswoman Bea Wagner also
produces bespoke chocolates for
special occasions.
Rózsavölgyi Csokoládé
(V. Király Pál utca 6;
www.rozsavolgyi.com)
The high art of chocolate
manufacture, by Katalin Csiszár
and Zsolt Szabad, brings flavorful
fantasies to life. Free from
additives and artificial flavorings,
Rózsavölgyi’s chocolates come
in fun and adventurous flavors:
ancho chili, cardamom, earl
grey, plum schnapps, orange
and tomato, and are presented
in beautiful shapes and patterns.
Rare chocolates in pure bar form
and own-roasted Venezuelan
cocoa beans. Branding and
packaging are smart and sassy
and make for great gifts.
Drink
Budapest Wine Society
Bortársaság
(V. Vécsey utca 5; www.bortarsasag.hu)
A comprehensive selection of
Hungarian wines as well as
a handful of French, Italian,
Spanish, Argentine and
Australian vintages available
at eight locations throughout
Budapest. Knowledgeable staff
guide you through the selection
and occasional wine tastings
allow you to try before you buy.
Pálinka, champagne and chocolate
also available. Home deliveries
for online orders.
Whisky Shop
(V. Veres Pálné utca 8;
www.whiskynet.hu)
A compact outlet next to the
Cadeau chocolate shop, packs
a heady punch with nearly 800
varieties of whisky on the shelves.
These include organic varieties,
several rarities and a handful
of brands only sold here, such
as BenRiach, Glenfarclas, and
Mortlach 30 Year.

Bars & Cafés
Cake, coffee and a tipple
124
400
(VII. Kazinczy utca 52,
www.400bar.hu)
This popular bar is set on the
busiest stretch of Kazinczy
utca, which boasts the highest
concentration of garden bars
(kerts) in the Jewish Quarter, also
known as the bar district. On
warm summer nights the large
terrace fills with a fun-loving
crowd who come for the hearty
Serbian specialties of pljeskavica
and ćevapčići, both made of
minced meat, or to catch an
international match on the large
outdoor projection screens. The
focal point of the interior is the
central bar counter accessible
from all sides and skirted by
several tables. DJs provide
the soundtrack on weekends,
although sound is kept low to
appease the neighbors.
Art Nouveau Café
(V. Honvéd utca 3;
www.magyarszecessziohaza.hu)
Located at the street level of the
beautiful House of Hungarian
Art Nouveau, also known as the
Bedő Ház, this café, bedecked
with furnishings of the period,
serves freshly baked croissant
and homemade sweets alongside
specialty coffees and freshsqueezed
juices. Formerly the
residence of the affluent Bedő
family, the building was designed
in 1903 in the popular style of the
day by renowned architect Emil
Vidor. The museum upstairs
offers guided tours, which take
visitors on a journey through
Art Nouveau, known locally as
Secessionism.
Boutiq’ Bar
(V. Paulay Ede utca 5;
www.boutiqbar.hu)
Upon entering, you’ll be greeted
by friendly staff who have become
famous for mixing some of the
finest cocktails in Budapest.
In fact Boutiq’ Bar recently
placed 43rd on the World’s Best
Bar list, compiled by Drinks
International. The cozy space,
red walls and boudoir-style decor
create a sumptuous atmosphere
perfect for savoring one of their
many artful concoctions – about
120 in all – including libations
made of freshly squeezed juice
and premium spirits. Englishspeaking
mixologists dressed
in semi-formal attire are more
than happy to make suggestions
should you find yourself
overwhelmed by the extensive
drinks menu.
Café Alibi
(V. Egyetem tér 4; www.cafealibi.hu)
This centrally located café
exudes fin-de-siècle ambience
with its dark-wood trim, crisp
white tablecloths and antique
decor. Own-roasted coffees
are the big seller, as are hearty
breakfasts, delicious continental
meals and irresistible desserts. A
good selection of local vintages
completes the pictures. Owner
László Vági keeps a close eye on
the operation and this is ref lected
in the attention to detail and
quality of service. A lovely shaded
patio at the center of the square
out front is a great spot to while
away a summer afternoon with
plenty of opportunities for people
watching.

125
Café Zsivágó
(VI. Paulay Ede utca 55;
www.cafezsivago.hu)
Journey back in time at this
deliciously decadent Russianstyle
parlor and café where the
atmosphere is enhance by dim
lighting and a bar stocked with
fine vodkas such as Stolnaya
and Russian Standard as well as
Czech Staropramen on tap. Live
music features on weekends when
anything from a jazz band to a
Gypsy quartet set the tone for the
evening. Daytimes are quieter
and perfect for sipping tea while
snacking on sardines.
Castro Bisztró
(VII. Madách Imre tér)
A short stroll from Deák tér,
under the arches of Madách tér’s
historic residential complex, this
café-cum-bar has a dedicated
local following. Castro first set up
shop on Ráday utca over a decade
ago and has been doing booming
business since moving to this
location. A great place to fuel up
on hearty Serbian fare, a handful
of Hungarian standards or more
exotic dishes before diving into
a night in the bar quarter. A
decent selection of beers on tap
and pálinkas are served in a funky
interior complete with heavy
brocade tablecloths, old film
posters and rotating art exhibits.
Centrál Kávéház
(V. Károly Mihály utca 9;
www.centralkavehaz.hu)
A popular haunt for writers at
the turn of the previous century,
Centrál has retained its oldworld
charm in a beautifully
restored interior adorned with
Art Nouveau details, extra
high ceilings, large plate glass
windows and comfy booth
seating. Decadent cakes and
specialty coffees are the main
reason to come here, but full
meals and affordable lunch
specials are also worth sampling.
Espresso Embassy
(V. Arany János utca 15)
Very recently opened for
business, the Espresso Embassy is
an offshoot of the popular Printa
Café. It carries on the tradition of
serving outstanding coffees from
direct trade suppliers. Situated
in a 200-year-old building in the
heart of the business quarter,
attention has been paid to all
the details from the modern yet
warm atmosphere to the hightech
machines, which deliver a
perfect cup every time. A fine
selection of American-style cakes
as well as hand-brewed filter
coffees and loose leaf teas.
First Strudel House
of Pest
(V. Oktober 6. utca; www.reteshaz.com)
Embracing an age-old tradition
of strudel-making, the First
Strudel House of Pest features
a rustic interior decorated with
simple wooden furnishings and
old tools of the trade. Known
locally as rétes, the house strudel
is prepared by stretching layers
of dough until paper thin, filling
them with fruit, cottage cheese or
ground nuts and brushing each
layer with oil to produce a f laky
crust when baked. Traditional
and hearty Hungarian meals are
also served.

126
Gerbeaud
(V. Vörösmarty tér 7; www.gerbeaud.hu)
Hungary has a reputation for
its elaborate confections and
legendary pastry chefs such as
Emil Gerbeaud, who invented
the cognac cherry and the
Zserbó square, and was also the
founder of one of the city’s most
renowned cafés. Situated in a
lovely fin-de-siècle building on
Vörösmarty tér, Gerbeaud has
become a favorite of visiting
tourists and locals on a quest
for the city’s most divine sweets.
Recent innovations include a full
range of artisanal confections
and Valrhona chocolate cakes.
Gerlóczy
(V. Gerlóczy utca 1; www.gerloczy.hu)
This lovely establishment has
all the finer points of a French
café including a classic interior,
delicious freshly baked goods and
efficient, semi-formal service.
Breakfast is served from 7am
while weekday lunches are one
of the most popular meals here.
Gerlóczy’s terrace is busy in
warmer months when tables fill
the quiet, tree-shaded square.
Traditional Hungarian cuisine
is complemented by a selection
of continental f lavors as well as
seafood and fish dishes. Several
top vintages are also available by
the glass.
Mai Manó Kávézó
(VI. Nagymező utca 20)
Set at the entrance to the photo
gallery of the same name, Mai
Manó boasts one of the most
inviting terraces along Budapest's
famed Broadway. Art-Nouveau
inspired decor in the café’s
interior blends seamlessly with
the hip and contemporary
atmosphere and retro soundtrack.
A fair selection of local wines
and pálinkas as well as specialty
coffees and hot chocolate feature
alongside light snacks.
Muvész Kávéház
(VI. Andrássy út 29;
www.muveszkavehaz.hu)
Stepping into the Művész feels
like stepping back in time to
the days when Budapest coffee
houses ruled supreme. Antique
furnishings, dim lighting and
crystal chandeliers provide
the backdrop for sampling
classic cakes, all of which are on
display by the front entrance.
Offerings also include traditional
Hungarian cuisine and cocktails.
Although service can be a bit
sluggish at times, the atmosphere
more than makes up for it – an
authentic coffee house experience
that’s more intimate than some of
the city’s more popular cafés.
New York Café
(VII. Erzsébet körút 9-11;
www.newyorkcafe.hu)
During its heyday in the early
1900s, the New York Café served
as a home away from home to
writers, artists, film directors
and starlets. But it fell into a state
of disrepair following World War
II and remained so throughout
communism. An ambitious
renovation project by Italian
company Boscolo Hotels saw to
the revival of the café including
its original neo-Baroque details,
and gilded gold and marble
embellishments.

127
Púder
Bárszínház & Galéria
(IX. Ráday utca 8; www.puderbar.
blogspot.hu)
Part of the Ráday utca café
scene, Púder offers a cultured
and arty atmosphere. The bar is
frequented by young professionals
and expats in search of something
out of the ordinary in a part of
town where cafés and restaurants
tend to lack character. Tasty bar
food features alongside cocktails
and Hungarian wines.
The Caledonia
(VI. Mozsár utca 9; www.kaledonia.hu)
Run by a loveable Scotsman and
his wife, this Scot-themed pub
serves over 100 types of whisky
and a dozen varieties of cider
as well as Belhaven Best on tap.
You’ll usually find sports on the
television and lots of expat events
but the atmosphere is still very
warm and convivial and feels
very much like a local. As is to
be expected, Caledonia serves
up plenty of traditional fare
including Sunday roasts, haggis
and fish & chips.
Ruszwurm
(I. Szentháromság utca 7;
www.ruszwurm.hu)
Set at the heart of the Castle Hill
district, Ruszwurm has the proud
distinction of being Hungary’s
oldest cake shop – open for
business since 1827. The original
cherry-wood fixtures have
been lovingly restored and the
delicious cakes are a favorite of
passing tourists. A clutch of tables
lines the sidewalk, providing a
lovely setting for sampling some
of Budapest’s finest pastries.
Villa Bagatelle
(XII. Németvölgyi út 17;
www.villa-bagatelle.hu)
Set in a historical villa at the
foot of the Buda Hills, Villa
Bagatelle is more than just a
café, it also houses an artisanal
bakery and a design shop. The
real reason to come here is for
the artistically inspired cakes
created in collaboration with
renowned confectioner László
Mihályi. Enjoy these or more
substantial fare on a sunny
terrace overlooking the square.

Restaurants
Traditional Hungarian
128
21 Magyar Vendéglo
(I. Fortuna utca 21;
www.21restaurant.hu)
With its comfortably stylish
interior and wonderfully
prepared meals, 21 Hungarian
Kitchen is reason enough to come
to the historic Castle District.
Tasty updates of Hungarian
classics without all the culinary
clichés. Opt for local favorites
of chicken paprika with butter
dumplings or the meat-filled
Hortobágy pancake. Lighter on
calories than traditional cuisine
but big on flavor.
Alabárdos Étterem
(I. Országház utca 1;
www.alabardos.hu)
Once you digest the faux
medieval decor, you can get on
with the real business of enjoying
one of the best meals you’re likely
to have in the Castle District.
Progressive Magyar cuisine
brought to you by chef Attila
Bicsár, outstanding service and
attention to detail make this a
very worthwhile stop after a full
day of touring.
Bock Bisztro
(VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49;
www.bockbisztro.hu)
Executive chef Lajos Bíró has
modernized Hungarian cuisine
by lightening things up and
throwing in a continental twist.
This wine restaurant showcases
the superb reds of vintner József
Bock out of Villány. Tapas and
lighter snacks feature alongside
richer dishes, such as roasted
duck breast with pepper sauce
and fried noodles. About two
dozen wines from Bock’s label are
complemented by a fine selection
from Hungary’s top vintners.
Café Kör
(V. Sas utca 17; www.cafekor.com)
Still one of the more
recommendable restaurants in
town, Café Kör applies a creative
gourmet touch to Hungarian
standards. The wrought-iron
tables, vaulted ceilings, and crisp
white tablecloths give this chic
bistro a decidedly downtown
feel. Perfect for lunch or dinner
when touring nearby St Stephen’s
Basilica, although it’s best to go
early, since the place enjoys a
loyal local following. The daily
specials are scribbled on the wall,
in both Hungarian and English
and traditional breakfast is
served every morning from 10am.
Gundel
(XIV. Állatkerti út 2; www.gundel.hu)
Still one of the city’s most famous
restaurants, Gundel opened its
doors in 1910. Its chef, Károly
Gundel was instrumental in
revolutionizing Hungarian
cuisine by introducing French
influences. Since then the
menu has gone through a few
updates but still feels a bit oldfashioned
with a handful of
lighter renditions of Hungarian
standards. Lamb, wild game and
the famous Gundel pancake are
the house specialties.
Menza
(VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 2;
www.menzaetterem.hu)
One of the few recommendable
venues on busy Liszt Ferenc
tér, Menza resembles a hip
and trendy version of a 1970s

129
Hungarian cafeteria. Magyar
classics and progressive updates
comprise the offerings, with a
few continental dishes thrown
in the mix. A wonderful spot to
while away a sunny afternoon as
the terrace out front is one of the
most prominent on the square.
Múzeum
(VIII. Múzeum körút 12;
www.muzeumkavehaz.hu)
Established in 1885, the Múzeum
still serves tasty Hungarian
meals in a fin-de-siècle setting
complete with ceiling frescoes by
Károly Lotz, Zsolnay tiles on the
walls and a resident piano player.
The menu features several goose
liver dishes as well as stand-by
catfish and veal paprika. Portions
are hearty and well presented.
Open for dinner only.
Rézkakas
(V. Sas utca 3; www.rezkakasbistro.hu)
Authentic Hungarian dishes with
some inventive contemporary
twists served in a traditional
dining room enhanced by live
Gypsy music. A recent move to
the city center sees Rézkakas join
the expanding culinary network
of District V. A good place to visit
if you’re looking for an authentic
Hungarian dining experience.
Rosenstein
(VIII. Mosonyi utca 3;
www.rosenstein.hu)
Inconspicuously located on
a sidestreet near Keleti train
station, Rosenstein enjoys
a dedicated local following.
Chef-owner Tibor Rosenstein
presents an encyclopedic menu
of Hungarian classics that range
from hearty mains of traditional
sólet (oven-baked beans) to
smoked tenderloin with roasted
vegetables in a Tokaj sauce. All
are served in a semi-formal, yet
cozy, setting.
Tigris
(V. Mérleg utca 10;
www.tigrisrestaurant.hu)
This elegant downtown wine
restaurant operates under the
guiding hand of renowned
vintner Attila Gere. Dark oak
furnishings, Zsolnay tableware
and red-checked tablecloths
provide the backdrop for
sampling all of Gere’s finest
vintages, a handful of other
Hungarian wines alongside a
long list of foie gras specialties,
wild game and seafood straight
from the fish markets of
Amsterdam.
Vár: a Speiz
(I. Hess András tér 6; www.varaspeiz.hu)
Traditional Hungarian cuisine
showcased in a hip context: the
interior resembles a modern
bistro and the plating is sassy
and informal. Chef Zoltán
Feke occasionally strays from
convention and this can be
attributed to his time spent
traveling the world in search of
culinary adventures. One of the
more worthwhile restaurants in
the Castle District.

Restaurants
Gourmet & Progressive
130
Gourmet
Costes
(IX. Ráday utca 4; www.costes.hu)
When it comes to fine dining,
few can match the quality of
Costes and that is perhaps why
they were the first in Budapest
to be awarded a Michelin Star.
Portuguese chef Miguel Rocha
Vieira prepares dishes with a
touch of El Bulli innovation:
roasted tail of blue lobster and
claw in ginger-scented tempura
with green apple and celeriac
remoulade, for example. The
formal dining room is decorated
in shades of bronze and cream
with intimate booth seating,
and accented with fresh-cut
flowers. Several hundred wines
and a knowledgeable sommelier
complete the picture.
Fausto’s
(VI. Székely Mihály utca 2;
www.fausto.hu)
After nearly 20 years in business,
Fausto’s has maintained its
position as the best Italian
restaurant in Budapest. This has
as much to do with owner Fausto
Di Vora’s hands-on approach
as it does with the beautifully
presented and outstanding meals:
Italian and more continentally
inspired fare such as ravioli filled
with duck liver in pumpkinand-sage
sauce or loin of deer
served with white polenta and
radicchio cream. Not to mention
the attention to detail and level of
service far outshine most of the
city’s restaurants.
Onyx
(V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8;
www.onyxrestaurant.hu)
Sharing the same address as the
renowned Gerbeaud cake shop
on Vörösmarty tér, Onyx offers a
rare culinary experience. Their
aim from the outset has been
to update Hungarian cuisine
and they’ve done a fine job; even
garnered themselves a Michelin
Star. Chef Szabina Szulló’s use of
innovative culinary technology
combined with fresh ideas,
has seen to their rapid climb
to the top. To sample inventive
renditions of regional cuisine,
we recommend the ‘Hungarian
Evolution’ menu, which features
five mouth-watering courses and
a few extras thrown in for good
measure. Over 200 different
wines to choose from.
Philippe a Belga
(XIII. Balzac utca 35; www.philippe.hu)
This under-appreciated gem,
tucked away in the residential
neighborhood of District XIII,
has developed a loyal following
of locals and expats in the know.
Proprietor Philippe Del Mestre
takes great care in sourcing
the finest ingredients from his
homeland to prepare exquisite
dishes inspired by Belgian
and French cuisine. As is to
be expected, fish and seafood
feature prominently on the
menu and this is one of the few
places in the city where you can
enjoy fresh lobster. Opt for the
fixed menu of either lobster,
seafood or Philippe’s personal
recommendations to experience
the best range of what’s on offer.
Attentive and non-obtrusive
service, and a strong selection of
local and imported vintages.

131
Progressive
Borkonyha
(V. Sas utca 1; www.borkonyha.hu)
The focus of the ‘Wine Kitchen’
may be on wine but careful
attention is also paid to the
menu. The two are intended
to work together and they do;
friendly servers also suggest that
it’s perfectly appropriate to have
more than one glass per course.
Owners Zoltán Kalocsai and
Tamás Horváth – one of whom is
usually on hand – offer a fusion
of contemporary Hungarian and
French cuisines in a tastefully
modern setting in the city
center. They stock about 200
wines, mainly Hungarian with
at least 50 available by the glass.
Deservedly popular, so it’s best to
book ahead.
Csalogány 26
(I. Csalogány utca 26;
www.csalogany26.hu)
A wonderfully light and inventive
take on Hungarian cuisine
with a strong continental
influence, Csalogány 26 has been
impressing diners at its Buda
location since opening in 2007.
Chef and owner Balázs Pethő
sources much of his ingredients
locally and presents them
inventively in four- or eightcourse
variations but you can also
order them individually if you
like. House-made bread is divine
as are the desserts, and the wines
are Hungarian only.
Klassz
(VI. Andrássy út 41;
www.klasszetterem.hu)
Klassz is often referred to
as a wine restaurant, but its
continental and Hungarian
dishes are very capable of holding
their own. Ingredients change
with the seasons, as does the
menu, which usually features
a handful of meat, fish and
vegetarian options. Wines are
well priced and plentiful given
the restaurant’s partnership with
the Budapest Wine Society –
whose shop is at the back. They
don’t list a phone number and
you can’t make reservations, but
the meals and wines are well
worth the wait.
Mák Bisztró
(V. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4;
www.makbisztro.hu)
Just around the corner from
the hotel, Mák Bisztró does a
trendy fusion of contemporary
Hungarian, French and Far East
flavors. The bistro-style setting
and relaxed atmosphere means
that you can linger and enjoy
state-of-the art gastronomy
without pretense. The succinct
menu changes daily and features
smaller than average portions
with frequent appearances of
seafood and atypical cuts of meat.
Chef Kata Tálas recently joined
the team and by 26 she’s already
done the rounds including a tour
of duty with Michelin-Star chef
Heston Blumenthal in the UK.

Restaurants
International
132
Arany Kaviár
(I. Ostrom utca 19;
www.aranykaviar.hu)
Set at the foot of Castle Hill,
Arany Kaviár boasts a lavish
interior reminiscent of a
fin-de-siècle Russian parlor.
Russian chef Sasha highlights
the traditional cuisine of his
homeland and of the Czars’
court, with a French twist. Fish
and seafood options abound,
including caviars such as Beluga,
and Siberian sturgeon as well as
specialties of grilled pike-perch
and steak tenderloin. Finish your
meal with premium vodka.
Baldaszti’s Grand
(VI. Andrássy út 18;
www.baldasztis.com)
Beautifully presented, progressive
Hungarian and continental
dishes are served in a hip
setting featuring all-white decor,
white furnishings, polished
concrete and large white tree
branches suspended from high
ceilings. Superb cocktails and
over a hundred domestic and
international wines also on offer.
Cyrano
(V. Kristóf tér 7-8; www.cyrano.hu)
Tourist traps along Váci utca
are a dime a dozen but Cyrano,
strays far from the norm. The
beautifully decorated interior
is complemented by friendly
service and in summer, the
shaded outdoor terrace is the
place to see and be seen. Chef
Csaba Kirják is equally adept in
preparing continental fare as he
is regional cuisine. Italian wholegrain
pasta features alongside
fish and seafood samplers and
Steak Wellington. Only the
freshest, seasonal ingredients
are presented in a frequently
changing menu.
Fausto’s Osteria
(VII. Dohány utca 5; www.fausto.hu)
Fausto’s showcases top-of-the
line Italian cuisine in a formal
setting, while its sister restaurant,
the Osteria offers simpler fare
in a more casual atmosphere.
The menu is succinct with seven
varieties of pasta such as lasagne
with veal or ravioli stuffed with
pheasant and quince. Meat and
fish dishes are also well chosen.
All are served in an intimate
dining room outfitted with darkwood
furnishings.
Fuji
(II. Csatárka utca 54;
www.fujirestaurant.hu)
In operation for over two decades,
Fuji knows sushi and they also
know how to source the best fish,
with fresh deliveries arriving at
least three times a week. This is
authentic sushi at its best. Sample
fatty tuna sashimi, and grilled
king prawns in traditional tatami
rooms, or take a seat at one of the
tables outfitted with a gas cooker
where you can grill your own beef
sukiyaki. The menu contains over
200 dishes, so feel free to ask your
server for help.
Indigo
(VI. Jókai utca 13;
www.indigo-restaurant.hu)
Indigo offers tasty Indian
dishes in an elegant setting.
Knowledgeable staff guide you
through the lengthy menu that
puts an emphasis on vegetarian

133
dishes and traditional Indian
breads made in-house. That’s
not to say meat eaters and
seafood lovers aren’t catered
to. Food here is authentic and
comfortably spicy and portions
are substantial, so if you’d like
to try a few dishes, bring along a
dining partner.
Két Szerecsen
(VI. Nagymező utca 14;
www.ketszerecsen.hu)
A perennial favorite, Két
Szerecsen wears many hats.
It’s a café, tapas bar and
restaurant where exotic dishes
play wonderfully alongside
Mediterranean and progressive
Hungarian cuisine. Outstanding
tapas combinations are the best
way to sample the dozen varieties
on the menu while weekly
specials keep things fresh and
seasonal. Their choice of salads
are impressive and desserts a real
treat. The cozy interior is warm
and inviting, filled with exotic
embellishments and lined with
large windows facing Budapest's
busy Broadway.
KNRDY
(V. Október 6. utca 15; www.knrdy.com)
KNRDY stands for the surname
of proprietor and gourmand
Zoltán Konrády who has a history
of sourcing premium cuts from
around the world to his gourmet
butcher shop in Buda. Succulent
Black Angus beef, Argentine fillet
mignon and aged Wagyu arrive
here by plane, chilled and never
frozen, and served with your
choice of sides such as grilled
asparagus or potatoes sautéed
in duck fat. Over two dozen top
Hungarian vintages and plenty of
imports are served by the glass.
Exposed brick and minimally
industrial decor lend a slick,
cosmopolitan air to the place.
Nobu
(V. Erzsébet tér 7-8;
www.noburestaurants.com)
Nobu Budapest is one of the
newest jewels in Chef Nobu
Matsuhisa’s crown and the first
of his international chain to open
in Central Europe. Matsuhisa
joined forces with Robert De
Niro for this project and set up
shop at the five-star Kempinski
Hotel in central Budapest to big,
Hollywood-style fanfare – De
Niro was in attendance at the
opening. Nobu comfortably seats
80 guests and holds a sushi bar as
well as a private room where you
can consume decadent sushi and
Japanese fusion away from the
watchful eye of other diners.
Trattoria Pomo D'oro
(V. Arany János utca 9;
www.pomodorbudapest.com)
Warm and rustic with elegant
touches, exposed brick and dark
wood trim, Pomo D’Oro fills
with a smart downtown crowd
most evenings so it’s best to
book ahead. The menu features
traditional and more progressive
meals made from the finest
and freshest ingredients, and
pizzas here are always a standout.
Several Italian and Hungarian
wines are available by the glass
and service is efficient and
friendly. The courtyard dining
area is more secluded while the
neighboring Gastronomia serves
simpler meals.

Classical Music Venues
A treat for the ears and for the soul
134
Béla Bartók
Memorial House
(II. Csalán utca 29;
www.bartokmuseum.hu)
This was Béla Bartók’s last
residence in Hungary before
he emigrated to the US in
1940. Its idyllic location in
the hills of Buda ref lects
Bartók’s preference for
working and living in a
natural environment and it is
here that he wrote many of his
greatest works. The composer’s
personal belongings, including
his Bösendorfer piano, can be
viewed in the museum while
chamber concerts are held at
least three times a week in the
intimate concert hall, which
seats 120, or in the peaceful
garden during summer
months.
Hungarian Radio
Marble Hall
(VIII. Pollack Mihály tér 8)
An elegant setting inside the
Hungarian Radio building
hosts intimate piano and
chamber music concerts
as well as classic jazz
performances. The formal hall
decorated head to toe in white
marble can accommodate up to
120 guests.
Hungarian
State Opera House
(VI. Andrássy út 22; www.opera.hu)
This beautiful neo-Renaissance
building is the crown jewel
of Andrássy út and one of the
greatest accomplishments of
renowned architect Miklós Ybl.
The Opera House first opened
its doors in 1884 and has had
an illustrious line of musical
directors including Gustav
Mahler and Otto Klemperer.
Its ornate exterior is a
showstopper while the lavish
interior features world-class
acoustics, beautiful murals and
sculptural details by leading
artists of the day. Performance
season runs from September
to June and features, for the
most part, German and Italian
repertoire, with classical music
concerts thrown in for good
measure.
L’Istituto Italiano
di Cultura
(VIII. Bródy Sándor utca 8;
www.iicbudapest.esteri.it)
Although the mandate of the
Italian Cultural Institute is
to promote cultural relations
between Italy and Hungary,
that does not preclude it
from hosting classical music
concerts that have no direct
link to either country. Fine
Italian and Hungarian
musicians feature in the
program, as do orchestras
and solo musicians from as
far afield as South Korea and
Japan. The large concert hall
at this centrally located venue
is also a good spot to check
out the renowned Budapest
Festival Orchestra.
Palace of Arts
(XI. Komor Marcell utca 1;
www.mupa.hu)
A serious space for serious
classical music, the MUPA,
as it is often called, hosts
prestigious orchestras and
soloists from here and abroad

135
as well as a growing number
of local pop acts. It is also
one of the main venues of the
renowned Budapest Spring
Festival. The popularity of this
state-funded cultural center
somewhat off the beaten path
in south Pest, can be attributed
to its outstanding acoustics
and the impressive multi-level
space which can accommodate
up to 1,700 concert attendees.
A detailed calendar in English
is posted online but expect
many of the more popular
shows to sell out in advance.
Also in the building is the very
worthwhile Ludwig Museum
of Modern Art.
the site of classical chamber
music concerts and organ
recitals held every Monday.
A short stroll from the hotel,
the Basilica’s magnificent
interior is adorned with
colorful frescoes and features
cathedral-style acoustics.
St Stephen’s Basilica
(V. Szent István tér 1;
www.bazilika.biz)
Named after Hungary’s
patron saint, the Basilica
was inaugurated as part
of the Magyar millennial
celebrations at the turn of
the last century. It is not only
the city’s largest and most
visited church, but it is also

Wine Bars
Urban vintages
136
DiVino
(V. Szent István tér 3;
www.divinoborbar.hu)
A few steps from the Basilica
and Szent István tér, DiVino
draws a crowd of urban
professionals and passing
tourists who fill the tables
out front on warm summer
nights. A slick interior of matt
black and light wood and
appropriately dim lighting,
provides the setting for
sipping vintages from over two
dozen Hungarian winemakers
including Gere, Tibor Gál,
Dúzsi, Konyári and István
Szepsy junior. Staff are always
on hand to make suggestions.
The kitchen serves up cold cuts
and imported cheeses, and
heartier fare.
Dobló Wine Bar
(VII. Dob utca 20;
www.budapestwine.com)
One of the first of the new
wave to arrive on the city’s
burgeoning wine bar scene,
Dobló has enjoyed a growing
following since opening two
years ago. This venue in the
heart of the Jewish Quarter
features high, vaulted ceilings
of bare brick and fine wines
from over 50 Hungarian
winemakers. Take a seat at the
bar or one of the handful of
tables and nibble on artisanal
cheeses and cold cuts as you
sip your wine. For those
who prefer stiffer drinks,
traditional Hungarian spirits
and cocktails are also available.
The soundtrack is soothing,
often in a jazzy vein.
Drop Shop
(V. Balassi Bálint utca 27;
www.dropshop.hu)
Also known as the Tasting
Zone, this smart and modern
space a short stroll from the
Danube offers 60 wines by
the glass and several more
by the bottle to consume on
site or take home. The bythe-glass
selection changes
daily and features mostly
imports although a handful
of top Hungarian wineries
are also represented. Drop
Shop’s stark design is in
line with the latest trends:
matt charcoal and polished
concrete contrasted with a
bright splash of lime green
by the bar counter. Standard
wine bar fare includes smoked
meats, cheeses and olives, as
well as paninis. Knowledgeable
and friendly servers are
always happy to make
recommendations.
innio
(V. Október 6. utca 9; www.innio.hu)
One of the hottest venues in
town, innio usually fills to
capacity on weekends with
crowds spilling onto the street
in warmer months. You’ll be
hard-pressed to find a table
unless you book ahead. Roughhewn
concrete, exposed brick,
comfy leather couches and
a large central bar comprise
the decor while dim lighting
and soulful DJ music create
a warm and welcoming
atmosphere. They offer about
40 wines by the glass with
about half of those arriving

137
from outside Hungary. Food
here is delicious and artfully
presented, and includes such
scrumptious ‘bar snacks’ as
home-made grilled sausages or
rib-eye steak with potato salad.
Kadarka
(VI. Király utca 42)
This popular wine bar at the
northern edge of the Jewish
Quarter provides some respite
from the district’s many
watering holes which tend
not to focus, as Kadarka does,
on offering quality wines.
Hungarian regions and
lesser-known winemakers
are well represented and the
proprietor Árpád Laurenczy
is usually on hand to make
recommendations. Although
the street-side tables are where
you want to be on a breezy
summer night, the interior
is also bright and airy with
large windows facing the
action. Sophisticated snacks
include various dips, cold cuts
and irresistibly fresh pogácsa
(Hungarian scones).
Winebar
(V. Hercegprimás utca 8;
www.winebar.hu)
Though not as trendy as the
many establishments popping
up around the Basilica,
Winebar does have a few
added extras. The street-level
lounge reveals nothing of the
ambient cellar below where
live jazz and blues feature on
the menu most nights of the
week. Guests can choose from
over 100 wines by the glass
and an assortment of imported
cheeses and smoked meats,
pogácsa and house-made dips.

Nightlife
From dusk till dawn...
138
A38
(XI. Petőfi Bridge, Buda
embankment; www.a38.hu)
Formerly a Ukrainian stonecarrying
vessel, the A38 was
transformed into one of the
city’s best concert venues and
certainly its most unique. It
sits permanently docked on
the shores of the Danube at
the Buda side of the Petőfi
Bridge. Top-notch acoustics,
a varied program of live folk,
jazz and rock, DJs and ample
terraces with beautiful breezy
views, make it a worthwhile
diversion in south Buda.
The on-site restaurant serves
continental cuisine while the
floating gallery next door hosts
contemporary art shows and
occasionally classical concerts.
Budapest Jazz Club
(XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 7;
www.bjc.hu)
The closure of yet another of
Budapest’s art cinemas has
given rise to a new music
venue. After a long-standing
residency next to the National
Museum, the Budapest
Jazz Club has settled nicely
into its new premises. The
cinema lobby now serves as
an atmospheric café and is
open throughout the day
for coffee or wine, and on
regularly scheduled concert
nights. The cinema’s screening
room has been transformed
into a concert hall complete
with stage, grand piano and
theater-style seating. Catch the
best local talent and hot acts
from abroad at Budapest’s only
dedicated jazz venue.
Doboz
(VII. Klauzál utca 10;
www.doboz.pm)
The name Doboz stands for
the large, soundproofed metal
box, which houses a long bar,
a dancefloor and late-night
parties. This smart design
alleviates noise complaints,
which means that parties can
go as late as the crowd desires.
Doboz’s funky decor is brought
to you by some of the city’s
hippest local artists such as
Gábor Miklós Szőke who is
responsible for the giant statue
of King Kong climbing the
large sycamore tree in the
central courtyard, as well as
the fierce looking beast leaping
over the back bar. Most nights
feature either a live band or
DJs of the electronic and dance
music ilk, and at a remarkable
1,000 square meters, the space
can be heaving come the
weekend.
Minyon
(VI. Király utca 8;
www.minyonbar.hu)
During the week, Minyon
is a slick restaurant, lounge
and cocktail bar, but from
Thursday to Saturday it is
transformed into a DJ haunt
and party palace. It proffers a
good range of quality spirits
and cocktails as well as
continental cuisine and cozy
leather couches for savoring
the vibrant atmosphere. DJs
provide music for dancing
with parties carrying on into
the wee hours.

139
Ötkert
(V. Zrínyi utca 4; www.otkert.hu)
Situated just around the corner
from the hotel in a beautiful,
19th-century mansion, Ötkert
caters to a posh party crowd
at this fashionable club that
was designed to resemble a
slicker version of a 'ruin bar'
without all the rough edges.
Beautiful people come here to
see and be seen and live bands
as well as DJs drive the party
with a mix of house, lounge
and jazz. In summer, the roof
comes off for a rare downtown
open-air adventure. Myriad
rooms extend from the main
courtyard.
Trafiq
(V. Hercegprímás utca 18)
The freshest addition to
Budapest’s hip downtown
club scene – one peek inside
will reveal what all the fuss
is about. Design was not an
afterthought: the labyrinthine
space gives way to curious
nooks and crannies each more
creatively decorated than
the next. Wind past the busy
bar counter at the front to
a dancefloor bedecked with
chandeliers and a retractable
glass roof. It is here where
capable mix masters dish
out popular beats well suited
for late-night dancing. Tasty
cocktails fuel the party
and substantial bar snacks
complete the picture.
Urimuri
(VI. Andrássy út 8)
Housed in a former neo-
Renaissance mansion built
for tobacco merchant Henrik
Schossberger in 1880, Uri Muri
is a hip late-night diversion,
from the people behind
Baldaszti’s Grand restaurant
next door. This courtyard
bar is open year-round and
hosts DJs from Wednesday to
Saturday, with nights going
later than most other venues
nearby.

Calendar of events 2013
January to June
140
January
• New Year’s celebrations
• Helmut Riling and the
Purcell Choir (1)
• Cézanne and the Past
(to Feb 17)
• VilágVeleje Festival
(Hungarian music)
February
• Cirque du Soleil: Michael
Jackson The Immortal (5, 6)
• Farsang Carnival
• Mangalica Festival
• Budapest Boat Show (14-17)
March
• Super-Moto-Cross (2, 3)
• Arts & Crafts Fair
• Budapest Spring Festival
(classical music)
• ABBA: The Show (7)

141
April
• Dance House Meeting and
Crafts Fair
• Vaya Con Dios (6)
• Budapest Dance Festival
• Portfolio Points (emerging
artists festival)
• International Book Festival
• Titanic Film Festival
May
• Earth Wind & Fire (2)
• Eros Ramazzotti (8)
• Budapest Pálinka Festival
• Museum Festival
(National Museum)
• Depeche Mode (21)
• Etyek Cellar Festival
June
• Gourmet Festival
• Stylewalker Night
(fashion & design)
• Belgian Beer Festival
• Danube Carnival
• Mark Knopf ler (22)

Calendar of events 2013
July to December
142
July
• Hungarian Grand Prix (26-28)
• Budapest Summer Festival
August
• Sziget Festival (5-11)
• St Stephen’s Day (20)
• Festival of Folk Arts
• Jewish Summer Festival
(music & culture)
• Roger Waters (25)
• Cult Bath (live music
in Turkish baths)
• Buda Castle Beer Festival
September
• National Gallop
• Busho (short film festival)
• Budapest Half Marathon (8)
• Design Week
(fashion & design)
• Craft-Beer Festival
(Főzdefeszt)
• Jevgenyij Kiszin (16)
• Buda Castle Wine Festival
• Sweet Days (chocolate
& candy festival)
• Electronic Beats Festival
• Placcc Festival
(art & performance)

143
October
• Café Budapest Contemporary
Art Festival
• Pálinka & Sausage Festival
• Telekom Bónusz Electronic
Music Festival
• World Press Photo exhibit
• Budapest International
Marathon (13)
November
• Anilogue International
Animation Film Festival
• Korean Film Week
• St Martin's Day (food & wine)
• Art Market Budapest
December
• Quarter6Quarter7 (festival of
Jewish music and culture)
• Christmas Markets: WAMP,
Kreatimm, Vörösmarty tér
• Pre-New Year’s Eve celebration
at the horse races

144
Writer & Editor: Aniko Fenyvesi
Art Director: Igor Spanjevic
Photographer: Andreea Anca
Additional photos:
page 13, 43, 68, 69 Mari-Liis Bockhard, page 41 Szilvia Tongor, Susan Fenyvesi, page 48, 51 Áron
Szántó, page 56, 57 István Balassa, page 64 Károly Árvai, Miklós Marczis, page 77 Gábor Tóth,
page 80, 82, 143 Balázs Glódi, page 84 Judit Tóth, page 90-93 Zoltán Bagosi, page 140 Marek Vogel,
page 141 Andrea Felvégi, Péter Kálló, page 142 Tamás Vajda, page 143 Péter Ronai.
© Copyright Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace 2013
All rights reserved

145

146