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Hungness's Mods - Vincent HRD Owners Club - UK.COM

Hungness's Mods - Vincent HRD Owners Club - UK.COM

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Reasonable <strong>Mods</strong> For Your <strong>Vincent</strong>: Part 5Carl Hungness (Continued from Page 27 of MPH 730.)KICKSTARTER SPRING and SHAFT: Once your kickstarter shaft is in place you may note itfouls the exhaust. Vin-Parts International has come up with a shaft that is ¼” longer than stockand has proven to be a very worthwhile addition. Part number is G83L.I read of the modification whereby the shaft is drilled and tapped at its outer end. A ¼” BSFbolt is installed with a washer to hold the kickstarter itself on in case you have experiencedsomewhat loose splines due to over tightening the clinch bolt. Mine has been in place for thepast 18 years, and initially I thought I needed a new kickstart shaft. The shaft was easily drilled.I have experienced severe kickstart slip in the past, a condition that has led to a fracturedknee (I read of this during my first year or so in the <strong>Club</strong> of an unfortunate who actually brokea bone while attempting to start his bike). The G46 and G47 gears are held in place by a punylittle spring G48. When not fully engaged the gears can slip with the described disastrous results.Replace the spring, better yet, buy two and wind them together and re-install. See MO10 for adrawing, it is an easy fix.The Kickstarter spring G87/1 is going to lose its resilience sooner or later and will have to bereplaced. Vin-Parts International specify they have a heavy duty version, others may have as


well. Jacqueline Bickerstaff changed the spring in my bike on the pavement in front of her housewithout taking the cover off. With a pair of Mole grips she removed the old, wound a few twistsof wire around the loop of the new one, (to make a pull rope), inserted the spring and snapped iton. Then she cut the now offending wire and removed it.NUTS and BOLTS and TOOLS: Here we refer not to the fastening devices used on our<strong>Vincent</strong>s, but to those that are not. In the USA the Whitworth fastener is easily pronounced butpainstaking to locate. We recommend www.britishfasteners.com Tel: 315 946 9400. Owner TomCaswell will sell a single tool or bolt. Also check Metric and Multistandard Components Corp. at:www.metricmcc.com/catalog/catalog.aspxTo our friends in the <strong>UK</strong> we have to say: ‘You are on your own. There are so many places listedin Old Bike Mart that specialise in British fasteners and tools we don’t have space to list them all.’However we know that if you contact: www.custom-fasteners.co.uk they will ship not only tothe <strong>UK</strong> but US as well. Thanks once again to Jim Wilson for the addresses.You do not require many specialised tools to fettle your machine, but a couple are worthwhile.Years ago I purchased a pair of thin ( 1 ⁄8”/3mm) wrenches to accomplish E80 nut tightening. Thoseare the nuts located between the brake backing plates and the forks. They are also used on thebattery carrier and speedo drive. Neal Videan now makes these wrenches available again and hasadded a ring end to one that allows work on the FF23 head stem nut. Contact information atend of the article.Removing and reinstalling, particularly the front spring boxes presents a problem. You’ll findat least three separate procedures for removal in Forty Years On in chapter one. Plus, if you canlocate a copy of MPH 522 the late Roger Haylett devised an extremely simple threaded rod/angleiron device that is illustrated in the magazine. You can make the tool in about half an hour. TrevorSouthwell leaves the top bolt in place and utilises a rope/windlass to remove the bottom, so as tomake the projectile hit the floor and not the fuel tank if your operation goes pear-shaped on you.To install and remove longer rear springboxes on the rear couple of pieces of aluminum, slottedto clear the centre bolt and just long enough to go past the diameter of the can itself can be used.Simply drill a couple of holes in the extended part of the aluminum and use a pair of threadedrods to clamp the cans (springboxes) and therefore reducing their length.Dan Smith gives me yet another worthwhile suggestion for working on our bikes as he notesthe new ratcheting combination wrenches, some with pivot heads are extremely useful. We won’tsee them in Whitworth sizes so Dan suggests we purchase: 7 ⁄16”, 13mm, 15mm and file them toour respective sizes 1 ⁄4” BSF 0.448; 5 ⁄16” BSF 0.525; 3 ⁄8” BSF 0.601.Ironically, while the USA is six times larger than the <strong>UK</strong>, our largest publication that caters tothe old bike market, Walneck’s, doesn’t come close to containing the amount of advertisers oreditorial content found in Old Bike Mart.Consequently, we highly recommend Old Bike Mart for anyone interested in, particularly, oldBritish machinery. Contact: www.oldbikemart.co.uk Walneck’s website: www.walnecks.comCABLES: While we know all of our cables are stocked by <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers, some have gone toextra trouble to locate adjustors in sensible places. Clutch cables with the adjustor 16” from theclutch end and throttle/air cables with adjustors three inches from the bar end are available.The Twin pull twist grip available from (at least) The VOC Spares Company Limited is a popularmodification along with a nylon throttle cable junction box. Coventry Spares displays a nicelooking brass cable splitter for US$35.82.Personally, one of the best mods I have enacted on my machine is a device called the ThrottleRocker, for US$10. It is similar to a shark’s fin, slips over the twist-grip and relieves nearly allof the wrist pressure required to actuate the throttle. There was a patent argument over thisdevice and it was taken off the market for a time, but available in Canada. There are other similardevices on the market that utilise Velcro to hold it in place, but I much prefer the naked versionas it can easily be slipped to a most comfortable position depending upon how much you wantthe throttle open. E-mail: www.throttlerocker.comMPH 731 PAGE 20 DECEMBER 2009


For those who have to construct their own cables in the <strong>UK</strong> we can recommend JJ Cables Tel:01926 651 470. E-mail: cableman@btinternet.com and T. Johnson. E-mail: tjohnsongb@aol.comWe also recommend the making of a solder pot if you are going to make cables although notmandatory. One can easily be constructed with a short piece of galvanised plumbing tubing,capped and later heated with a propane torch. Making cables can be a dangerous undertaking forthe novice, (if you happen to be making a brake cable for example) so knowing how to ‘mushroom’the cable itself and properly ‘tin’ and clean the plot is essential.Once again, Jim Wilson wrote an article for The Clatter the Northern California NewsletterSection years ago about using a silver solder with a low 430ºF melting temperature which isperfect for soldering iron usage.He used a 7x7 stranded inner cable as well as the associated outer cable that is much moreflexible and lasts longer than the typical 1x19 for throttle, clutch and brake. 19 strand cheaperinner cable is found to break or fray more easily. The 7x7 can be put into service in a much tighterconfiguration and still work. These are available in the US at both Flanders and Barnett: ContactInfo: www.flandershandlebars.com and www.barnettclutches.com/products/cables.aspx bothUSA-based.Jim also uses Magura dust boots to cover the adjusters (along with short piece of shrink tubing)and advises the use of Messer’s MG-120 silver solder. It is cadmium free, low temperature, goodcapillary and wicking properties and great for bike cables. It is available in a small kit and has theflexibility needed to hold. Use 120 liquid flux or MG 120 paste flux. Jim doesn’t use a solder potand finds one unnecessary.Of course a cable lubricator is essential to keep the easy movement. Contact info: www.messerwelding.com/MG%20Products/Brazing.htm and www.scootertherapy.com/clubepage.html Tel: 262 255 5542. USA.I followed Wilson’s advice and successfully made all the cables on my Black Shadow. A frienddoing a multi-million Dollar Alfa used the Messer product and found it satisfying.Wrapping up a new clutch/comp. cable tightly and inserting into your headlamp could proveto be a prescient act as well.CARBURETTOR PAINT: You are on your own when it comes to painting your bike but I want torecommend the ‘silver sheen’ paint referred to in Original <strong>Vincent</strong> Motorcycle referring to thecoating used on our carburettors. The Eastwood Company makes a product called ‘Carb Renew’item no. 10187Z that has been used on (at least) some of Ernesto Morales’ award winning bikes.Contact info: http://eastwood.results page.com /search?p=Qandts=customandw=carb+renewCRASH BAR: For some reason I have kept track of the number of times my own machine hasbeen on its side during my ownership. It has fallen over seven times and crashed once. In eachcircumstance my Britax crash bar, a bar that fits through the headstock sidecar fitting, has savedthe machine, and me, from damage. It is astounding the bike has received literally no damagewhatsoever each time it has tipped over. Even during my crash when the machine skidded outfrom under me in a curve and slid over 140’, and then flipped to the opposite side, the damagewas minimal. The VOC Spares Company Limited makes a stainless steel bar that clones the Britax(part no. CB1SS) and it may come from the highly respected <strong>Vincent</strong> parts maker/rebuilder ofMaughan and Sons whom we know manufactures this part.I milled slots in my own bar to accept a line of 12 LED lights that serve as turn signals. They notonly work great, but most say, ‘You don’t have winkers up front,’ as they don’t look at the bar asbeing a place of origin for lights. I more or less glued them in on a piece of wood.LONG FOOTPEG HANGERS: The hangars F52/11 and F52/12 are to a six foot rider, short. I wasable to obtain a set of longer hangers years ago, but no longer available. A competent welder cancut yours and add a piece in the middle and your riding position will be much more comfortable.With the short pegs I found it easy to get a ‘Charlie Horse’ in my (especially) right hip.DECEMBER 2009 PAGE 21 MPH 731


AIR FILTERS: I can’t lay hands on the quote from Phil <strong>Vincent</strong> who commented something to theeffect of ‘It’s so wet in England that the dust is kept down.’ Thus some original bikes were fittedwith Vokes air filters that I understand did a pretty fair job of choking the engine. Fit a set of shortK&N Filters to your machine and your cylinders will be much happier and last a whole lot longer.The Vokes have been reproduced with modern day filters by craftsman Steve Hall. They sell forUS$695 per pair and you buy your own K&N Filters. I believe they are first class reproductions.E-mail: hallsmetalworks@aol.comHANDLEBARS and CONTROLS: The stock handlebar assembly can feel a bit confining to a tallrider. I fitted a set of touring bars, still available, and found the riding position much improved.The stock dip switch looks lovely and seemingly takes about a second and a half to actuate. Ihighly recommend you install a modern day turn signal switch (with turn signals of course) justfor safety. I used a switch off a Harley-Davidson Buell that is black. It happily befuddles theonlookers as well as they didn’t realise a 1954 bike had such a device.I am astounded to see the new style, squished rectangular mirrors installed on so manybeautifully restored bikes. You can still buy a new Stadium mirror that will mount on yourhandlebar end, but they aren’t the cast aluminum ones of old. Nevertheless, if you go online andlook up any good hot rod supply shop you can buy a small round mirror that looks all the worldlike an original Stadium and it can be made to fit your new bracket. If you are going to ride it,you need mirrors. Remember, the guy behind you is using his mobile telephone to text messagehis girlfriend.Mount one of those cute little chrome Amal horn buttons on your right hand twist grip and useit as a kill switch. It may not only come in handy one day, but with a little practice you can bumpit and your footshift at the same time to enact lightning fast shifts without fear of tearing up thedrivetrain. I know about such things when I get next to a Harley Sportster.Your original cork based fuel taps most likely leak and articles abound on how to fix them. Minereside in my ‘Original <strong>Vincent</strong>’ box as they have been replaced with modern petcocks.CONCLUSION: When you consider the vast amount of experience Patrick Godet has in the worldof <strong>Vincent</strong> motorcycles, his opinions carry very significant weight. Patrick is of course the manwho reproduces a new ready-to-run Egli and who also runs what is likely the most complete andlargest <strong>Vincent</strong> restoration facility in the world. This is not to say other restoration facilities turnout any less quality than Godet’s, nor do we respect other opinions any less than his. Moreover, inmy estimation his comments can be appreciated by all <strong>Vincent</strong> owners, new and old. Remember,English is a second language for Patrick and most of us can’t say, ‘What’s the time?’ in French!Basically, Patrick is telling us he doesn’t have very many modifications that he wouldrecommend doing to the <strong>Vincent</strong>. He’s pretty happy with it as manufactured:Dear Carl, Over 35 years of <strong>Vincent</strong>eering I have learnt a lot and still do. You might be surprisedif I tell you we do not do many fancy things on the 1,000cc engine.Our 1,000cc engines are 100 per cent to <strong>Vincent</strong> design plus ET100 modified. Our goal to supplyreliable trouble-free enjoyable machines has more to do with the attention paid to every detailand first of all before even thinking of building an engine:It took me several years to solve the grabbing and squealing problem of the multiplate clutch.We only use ¼” sprockets to allow ‘O’ ring chains.In fact in the light of my experience in travelling long journeys and racing we do everything wecan to get the machine as refined as possible with maximum docility.I have designed special breather caps and I still need to design a one way valve even thoughour system works fine without it. The problem is we re-machine inside the cylinder head so it isnot easy for the average owner.Every Egli wheeled out of here has an electric start from François Grosset and I am sold on hisignition system as well which is on every machine from here when the customer agrees.MPH 731 PAGE 22 DECEMBER 2009


I am happy too to advertise. I do it to wave the <strong>Vincent</strong> flag more than for the business I stillhave a few more ideas for the coming months and then I shall be quiet again.We manufacture our own crankcases and covers, cylinder heads, crankshafts MkII and MkIIIcamshafts pistons for our big bore and many parts we have also experimented diamond likecarbon coated cam followers in conjunction with our smoothing by tumbling no rugositycamshafts we use a formula one and motorsport process for our camshafts.Our 1,330cc engine has a fully nitrided and then grinded 100 stroke bob-weight crankshafteach side is one piece with 1 1 ⁄8” mainshafts. Our 1,330cc engine has our specific big port squishedcylinder heads which I designed some years ago for a 500cc racer project which has beenpostponed. I keep the technology inside for my customers’.My own machine is just a standard Series ‘D’ with improved breathing and ET100 modifiednicely ported inlet and exhaust port Amal MkII carburettors. Let’s say for the standard <strong>Vincent</strong> Ido not like modification, I love them as they are. I forgot we also have our gearbox mainshafts onneedle rollers and a seal and no more bronze bushes.Patrick credits both Fritz Egli and manufacturer David Holder for much of his success. Holder,as many of you know owns the <strong>Vincent</strong> and Velocette trademark names and manufactures manyof the exacting parts of our bikes such as gearbox and timing gears, primary drive and ESA, rockercover caps, liners, exhausts, hubs and spoke flanges, brake shoes, speedo ring gear, and the multiplateclutch previously mentioned as well as the new Rear Frame Member used on the <strong>Club</strong>’s‘new’ Black Shadow. He sells directly to the trade so his name isn’t one we are all familiar with.It took me a good number of years to make my own Black Shadow a truly reliable daily rideand most of the problems I encountered were either of my own making, or a lack of knowledgeof the machine. I recommend those new to the world of <strong>Vincent</strong> motorcycles use the <strong>Club</strong> forum,the jtan e-mail service and read through the many informative articles on www.thevincent.comto answer most any question. Remember, Tony Rose logged 100,000 miles in a little over a yearon his <strong>Vincent</strong> in the 1950s and encountered only minor difficulties.The machines were manufactured to be ridden and to be ridden fast and for long distances.Ride them, wear out some parts and learn how to work on the machine with your own hands.Both you and the world of <strong>Vincent</strong> motorcycling will be the better for it.Again, at least a couple of dozen <strong>Vincent</strong> enthusiasts contributed to this article and theyrepresent the helpful spirit I have found throughout my tenure of my own <strong>Vincent</strong>.Thanks to you all.Contact Sources:The VOC Spares Company Limited: Website: www.vincentspares.co.ukVin-Parts International: Website: www.vintech.co.ukConway Motors: Website: www.conway-motors.co.ukCoventry Spares Ltd: Tel: +1 800 451 5113.V-3 Products. Neal Videan: nvidean@optusnet.com.au (Australia). USA Agent: Steve Hamel.E-mail: gearheads@comcast.net <strong>UK</strong> Agent: Vince Farrell. E-mail: vince.farrell@blueyonder.co.ukwww.vincentownersclub.co.uk or www.voc.uk.com: The <strong>Club</strong>’s websites. Membership of theVOC required to access some information.www.thevincent.com: A phenomenal amount of technical information included on this site forevery part of your <strong>Vincent</strong>.voc@jtan.com: Highly recommended list-based e-mail service catering to <strong>Vincent</strong> owners. Sendan e-mail to: voc@jtan.com with the word ‘subscribe’ in subject line. To remove yourself, sendthe word ‘unsubscribe’ in the subject line.Maughan and Sons: Patriarch Tony Maughan learned the art of machining while serving in theBritish Navy, and the world of <strong>Vincent</strong> motorcycling became much richer for his knowledge anddedication. His son and son-in-law now run the firm and are very well known for their superbrebuilding and manufacturing efforts. Tel: 01529 461 717.DECEMBER 2009 PAGE 23 MPH 731


Terry Prince: My conscience won’t allow me to conclude this article without a mention ofTerry Prince, a man who has dedicated much of his existence to furthering the performanceof the <strong>Vincent</strong>. Terry has produced everything from complete cylinder heads, big bore kits to arolling (Egli-style) chassis. His products have received praise world-wide. Currently however, weunderstand he is making very few parts and may ramp up his efforts in 2009. Tel: +61 245 682208. E-mail: clmotorbikes@esat.net.au Website: classicmotorbikes@esat.net.au Steve Hamelwhose address is listed above is Terry’s North American agent.Patrick Godet: Tel: 00 332 35 75 9656. E-mail: godet-motorcycles@wanadoo.frTrevor Southwell: Affectionately known as Clever Trevor, he has encyclopaedic hands on mastermachinist knowledge of every inch of our machines. Does not advertise but is one of the mainbehind-the-scenes forces for many technical innovations. E-mail: clevtrev@discali.co.ukSid Biberman: A <strong>Club</strong> Honorary Member with half a century plus experience racing and tuning<strong>Vincent</strong>s. A fountain of knowledge. E-mail: bigsid@webtv.netJim Wilsom: Jim is a decades-long enthusiast who has a proclivity for locating and saving tidbitsof information and websites relating to our bikes. He’s always helpful for technical questions.E-mail: vinceotter@prodigy.netGlen Bewley: Glen is another who has amassed a great deal of knowledge of our machines andis an active rebuilder most willing to assist. E-mail: bewley998@bewleystudios.com s


Reasonable <strong>Mods</strong> For Your <strong>Vincent</strong>: Part 4Carl Hungness (Continued from Page 23 of MPH 728.)ADJUSTING THE GEAR CHANGE: As noted previously, the procedure for enacting this procedureis outlined in Richardson. However, countless Members have encountered problems with the G61tabbed Pawl Carrier Centraliser. The tabbed units are designed so we don’t inadvertently popinto the next gear, the tabs are meant to stop the plot where it is supposed to be. I am one whofound that elimination of the tabs, or bending them so far to the right and left, finally solved thepositive shifting problem. Member Paul Zell wrote: ‘I drilled and tapped my G49 for two 3 ⁄16” grubscrews, one on each side pointing towards the center dowel, providing independently adjustablestops. Never had much luck with the tabbed G61 either.Glen Bewley had the same experience as me and removed the tabs. Thus far, I have never‘overshifted’ the bike and find adjustment is now positive and I can feel the pawl click into place.FIVE SPEED GEARBOX: I can’t convince myself this subtitle meets my ‘Reasonable <strong>Mods</strong>’requirement for your <strong>Vincent</strong> but there are those out there who believe the five speed gearboxset manufactured by Quaife is a necessity. I have read both pro and con reports on the ease offitting. Mechanic Bill Jean had to remake the forks supplied. Rider Peter Bromberg says he hasdone about 4,000 miles with one of the units and is well satisfied. Rider and racer Tim Kinghamhad very high praise for the unit and specified how much he likes the higher bottom gear notonly for everyday riding but racing as well. The current price is £900. Contact info: Ian Skinner,Sports Power Ltd., Monza House, Fircroft Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6EJ. E-mail: accounts@johnsurtees.com Website: www.quaife.co.uk/vincent_2We understand fabricator Colin Taylor can erase the old numbers on your kickstart cover toinclude the fifth speed. Racer Steve Hamel had his cover stamped P N D L R. Tel: 39 0858 48372.E-mail: colineng1@aol.com


WIRING: Complete wiring harnesses are available from our <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers of course. Ifyou want to clone the wiring in your harness for a modification such as turn signals, thereis a company named TMS in Nottingham run by Tony Cooper. Tel: 01159 593 447. Website:www.tms-motorcycles.co.uk This firm specialises in vintage car and bike wiring and I understandthey supply us with our harnesses.Member David Dunfey had Rhode Island Wiring do a harness over a decade ago for his openSeries ‘D’ and he says it was absolutely concours quality. This firm is probably the most famousand respected in the US and literally demand they locate an original before they duplicate. Everyharness they make is listed in their catalogue. They will have a Series ‘C’ harness available soon.Thus, they can supply original wire, ends etc. Contact: www.riwire.comI ran my own wiring inside of heat shrink tubing, that I did not shrink. I glued the tubing (withGOOP) to the bottom of the RFM where it has happily resided for over a decade. The installationis ultra-clean and easy to keep that way.While not recommended for concours judging, I ran all of my handlebar wiring inside of thebars as I love the visual appearance of naked bars without the ty-wraps and harness.WHEEL BEARING SEALS: The H47 Felt seals can be difficult to fit because of their thickness.Most <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers now stock what is known as a Nylos seal (metal and rubber) that is mucheasier to use. I prefer the bronze grease retainers often available. They cost more but are easilyremovable.FITTING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM: When unscrewing your exhaust nuts, pay close attention,and mark a particular fin, say at 12 o’clock as it just exits the cylinder head. Now you know whatpart of the fin mates with the head’s threads when you re-install. The following tip is useful too:Try easing the internal bore of your pipe nut with an appropriate sized flapper wheel. This was atip given to me by Bob Culver, and it worked for my engine — Stumpy Lord. To be continued…


Reasonable <strong>Mods</strong> For Your <strong>Vincent</strong>: Part 3Carl HungnessPISTONS, VALVES, SEALS, STUDS, FILTERS AND GEARS: The list of the above mentioneditems that are not stock is too long to include all of what is on the market. Valve seal kits foruse with unleaded fuel, seal kits for crankcase mainshaft, special exhaust valves, modified valvestem seals, high tensile two-piece cylinder head studs, high flow oil filters, steel idler gears andfive speed gearboxes are on the market. Some may be exclusive to a particular supplier but it hasbeen my experience that most <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers have precious few items that are exclusive toone source only (such as the new eight inch brakes supplied by The VOC Spares Company Limited).Hartmut Weidlich has an adaptor available to install BMW oil filters and ace mechanic andBonneville racer Steve Hamel (e-mail: gearheads@baldwin-telecom.net) has oil filters made thatI can recommend.UFM CLEANING: You can remove the UFM and fill it full of nuts and bolts along with somecleaning solvent and pitch the part into a cement mixer where the rotating action will mostlikely knock loose the accumulated grunge. Once again, Conway Motors Ltd. has come up witha reasonable solution with their Manhole Cover kit that allows you to cut a sizeable hole in thetop, rear of the UFM to gain access to cleaning. You then weld an insert into the hole that isultimately filled with a cap.LOOSE ROCKER BEARINGS: Dan Smith, the man who is capable of creating an entire enginefrom raw materials says: You are modifying a part of the engine that is capable of 200,000 mileswith no wear. The tunnels lose their size by neglect and poor maintenance. The best you can dois chrome the spindles, they will never wear out. If the rocker moves on the spindle, you lose thearea of wear by over half and for the rocker to stay central at the valve. The pushrod and followeraction will cause the rocker to wear quicker. If your tunnels are worn they should be boredoversize to clean, and new bushings with a 0.0001” to 0.0002” clearance fitted.A modified rocker feed bolt and nut are available from most <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers that utilises ahat shaped bolt to snug up the assembly. It is also detailed in Know Thy Beast, page 159.Upon occasion the ET27 rocker adjuster bolt will foul the inspection cap. Usually, grinding theoffending particular cap will cure the problem but Vin-Parts International makes a socket headedbolt that provides extra clearance (ET27SP).BREATHERS: I have built four or five breathers for my own Twin, ranging from catch cans toDucati breather systems.One of the neatest breather systems I have come across is enacted by ace restorer ErnestoMorales who is also an aircraft mechanic. Member Bev Bowen inspected the system and reports:He removes the chain oiler fitting, T29 and the screw in the tank is left open. The stock breatherbanjo pipe is plugged, so it will remain stock in appearance (to not offend the judges). After firstscrewing down hard the intake valve inspection cap for the number one rear cylinder, a punchmarks the spot on the shoulder of the cap that is up (12 o’clock). He then drills and taps andscrews in what looks like a hose fitting nozzle. Next, a spare A71S breather pipe is bent in aconvoluted way so that it can be fitted with an oil banjo to the hole where the T29 is normallySEPTEMBER 2009 PAGE 19 MPH 728


placed. Lastly, he connects the end of the pipe to the little nozzle with a short length of hose. Hehas no leaks on his machines.Honorary Member Sid Biberman, who has been fettling <strong>Vincent</strong>s since the early 1950srecommends the installation of a Series ‘D’ style breather cap to be installed on the front cylinder,on the inlet rocker adjuster cap. He simply routes a hose to a one way PVC style valve, of whichthere are many on the market (the Krank Vent and Bunn systems come to mind) and into theatmosphere. There is a minor difference between the Series ‘C’ and ‘D’ cylinder heads. The slotabove the rocker is milled wider on the Series ‘D’ to allow easier passage of air to the valvesprings. Sid swears by this simple modification and has used it extensively. He blocks off the stockbreather using a sump plug.Conway Motors Ltd. has a Ducati breather system they have adapted to our bikes that fitsunobtrusively on to the front exhaust spring cap.Former Hon. Editor Robert Watson recommends using the stock breather with minormodification. It was Phil Irving I believe who recommended widening the actual slot in the timedbreather. While I don’t have the dimensions at hand, I performed the procedure on my own bikeusing a milling machine. You are simply allowing more air to escape, and of course oil. I made anew fitting which allowed me to use a 3 ⁄8” hose rather than the stock ¼” and ran the exit hoseall the way to the back of the bike, under the RFM out the left side. My machine still passes oileven after a rebuild.Robert however claims virtually no oil loss but he invests heavily in piston rings that seem toseal perfectly. Robert utilises:Honda Car Chrome Rings: 85mm 13011-PT2-003. 85.25mm 13021-PTO-BO4. 85.5mm13021-PTO-BO4.He notes the rings fit right on the pistons supplied by The VOC Spares Company Limited andothers. He says, ‘The bore finish is very fine, not the coarse cross hatch we used to use, but doneif I recall with #400 stones.’ Robert reminds me that his mentor Dan Smith insists no ring will doits job properly if the bore is not absolutely round, a feat not as easily accomplished as one mayinitially believe.I installed a Ducati breather with less than perfect results, but Derek Peters says the unit isworking perfectly on his Comet.The aforementioned Bunn and Krank Vent systems appear to utilise one way valves and cansurely assist in attempting to contain a vacuum in the crankcase.Website: www.pantherpublishing.dsl.pipex.com/bunnbreather.html for the Bunn andwww.et-performance.com for the Krank Vent. Very complete websites.The one system that has proven its worth is known as the Elephant Trunk developed by RonKemp of Vin-Parts International. It consists of a casting which replaces the mag drive inspectioncover and incorporates a wire mesh filter and an elbow which accepts an exit hose. The systemis a demister, that separates the oil and air. It works extremely well and its only drawback maybe the look of the ¾” hose that now protrudes from the timing chest. Contact information is atend of this article.While I don’t have the precise quotes on hand, I do recall Phil Irving stating in his writings thatthe stock breather system was at best marginal and he did recommend widening the slot as noted.Time and again we have read reports telling us to block off the stock breather if we do in factinstall another outlet as one will cancel out the effectiveness of the other if we don’t. Personally,I agree with the Dan Smith/Robert Watson in obtaining perfectly round bores and using the stockbreather system, with the widened slot.CHAINS: When you consider your standard chain oiler most likely dispenses more lubricationthan necessary and is very often turned off, our first suggestion for keeping standard chainslubricated is to consider the fine product created by a motorcyclist who used to commutebetween Glasgow and Manchester. Fraser Scott introduced his automatic oiler to the motorcycleworld in 1986 and it has proven to be a welcome addition to most any bike. Basically a bit of oilis sprayed on the chain via a vacuum system each time you close the throttle. There is a UniversalKit available that is easily fitted to our <strong>Vincent</strong>s. Contact information at: www.scottoiler.comMPH 728 PAGE 20 SEPTEMBER 2009


The advent of the ‘O’ ring (including X and W ring) chain has changed the landscape formotorcycle chains. Lasting several times longer than standard chains, the ‘O’ ring variety hasproven to be superior in virtually every way. They are, however wider than our stock chainsand require narrower sprockets. Most <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers stock narrower sprockets thatmake installation a bolt on process. Aluminum rear sprockets may be also be obtained fromwww.sprocketspecialists.com in the US. I highly recommend the installation of one of these newchains to eliminate yet another minor, nagging problem in updating our machines. I installed oneon my own machine and have covered over 35,000 miles with no adjustment.CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT: We have in our <strong>Club</strong> many very accomplished engineers with hundredsof years total experience in all manner of industries. One of them, Roy Cross has been a <strong>Vincent</strong>enthusiast for over half a century and commented: I have fitted three multi-plate clutches to mybikes, and would not have installed any of them if I had realised how well the stock clutch couldoperate when it is adjusted properly.Roy obtained a drawing that shows us dimensions for plunger travel, wear limits, etc. Thedrawing has been submitted and hopefully it will appear in MPH soon. Actually, the dimensionsprinted in the drawing are repeated in the story below.Member Ken Targett put together a short article I find very useful and reprint it here. Ken’sproblem was not clutch slip, but it was extremely fierce, ‘like an on-off switch,’ he reports.Adjust the clutch cable when the handlebar lever is fully pulled so that the top end of the G91hits the abutment G94. Then adjust the clutch actuating pushrod with C42/1 and/or ET27/AS sothat there’s ¼” play in the cable.Check chaincase seal PD26, clutch sprocket seal PD25, Carrier seal C18 and make sure thereis plenty of gasket cement on the splines of shaft G3. The clutch needs to be perfectly free of oil.Smooth lift of plate: Check the spring forces under load. Using a set of bathroom scales anda drill press, measure the force needed to press each spring into its cup. If they aren’t matched,arrange them in order around the clutch. For example, strongest, weakest, strongest but one,weakest but one, strongest but two, weakest but two.Shoe pivots: If the shoe pivots C5/1 are worn they can be replaced, and if the holes in the shoesare worn they can be bushed.Shoe centralisation: The plungers C11/1, when both are at their outer limits, should just holdthe shoes symmetrical without any play. If not, you’ll need to tinker until they do.Plunger travel: The screws C12 should be adjusted to allow travels of 0.235 plus or minus 25thou for the plunger in shoe C7/1 and 0.295 plus or minus 25 thou for the plunger in shoe C7.Shoe clearance: You need at least 25 thou clearance between the shoe lining and the drum. Ifless, remove lining material.For additional information on your clutch we recommend visiting www.thevincent.comMaster machinist Dan Smith dodged his way out of using the pesky 406 screws that mate withthe C14 pins. The 406 screws are ever-so-easily knackered when tightening their shallow slots.Dan machined a new set of C14 pins and utilised tapped them for 10–32 flat sockethead screws.Some <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers have also made sockethead screws available for the pins in the past.The clutch rod G96 that was originally one piece is very often modified to be a three, or evenfive piece (as mechanic Glen Bewley has done) unit.Glen Bewley is another who we found literally digested every article in Jeff and Lyn Bowen’sbooks to aid in his quest to become a proficient <strong>Vincent</strong> rebuilder and from all reports hehas succeeded.Roy Cross made me a fabulous looking little piece that nearly clones the G93 sleeve that fits onto the G91 arm. Many of us have had the G96 rod assembly bore its way into the G91 arm. Roy’smodification is a longer G93 turned around, and turned down so it incorporates 1 5 ⁄8” of G96 rod.Thus, there is no rod bearing on the G91 any longer.The three piece G96 rods initially utilised a ball bearing in the middle which Know Thy Beastsays had a habit of boring their way into indents into the adjacent rods. Thus, some suggest aroller in-between the two rods.SEPTEMBER 2009 PAGE 21 MPH 728


Because I have had the boring-into-the G91-arm problem I have re-Stellited the edge of thearm and replaced the ball in-between with the Dan Smith recommended Tungsten Carbide 6mmball available from McMaster Carr #9686K87 (pack of five for US$14.89) before I obtained theRoy Cross mod. Dan uses the 6mm as it is 0.014” less than the quarter inch diameter normallyused, and won’t bind in the hole. I heat treated the ends of my rods and have had no problemssince. McMaster-Carr can supply the oil hardening drill rod necessary (#8893K36). Heat it cherryred, quench, re-heat and ‘draw’ the tip back to a straw colour. Do it in semi darkness and you cansee the colour. It will make you feel like a blacksmith. The original rods were 61⁄32”.At the other end of the plot I know that both Sid Biberman and Neville Higgins have modifiedsmall engine valves to effect flat and full lift. This mod seems to be a most reasonable one, even ifyou have to fiddle with the length to get it right. Getting the clutch to lift evenly eliminates drag.Sid used a 1964 VW inlet valve pushing against a BMW ball race, thrust bearing, at the clutchend. He reversed the original peg (C42/1) to hold the ball race and the flat end of the VW valvepushed against it giving dead level throwoff. Neville used a valve from a Mini.If you have experienced a hole bored into your G91, you can reface the arm by welding on a bitof Stellite, but there are many grades. Dan Smith tells me your pushrod should be Rc 60, the leverRc 56. The 4–5 point spread is used in industry for wear surfaces that touch each other. Weldingwith #1 Stellite should work.The one piece Black Lightning disc has been recommended for decades as it is always flat, lastslonger and is known to give a smoother take off.MULTI-PLATE CLUTCHES: All of whom I am going to term as main suppliers to the <strong>Vincent</strong>,The VOC Spares Company Limited, Vin-Parts International, Conway Motors Ltd. and Coventry(USA) supply complete multi-plate clutches that bolt right in with no modifications. Colin Jennerat Conway Motors Ltd. is to my knowledge the only one who supplies kits for Series ‘A’ Cometsand Meteors.In addition, Conway Motors Ltd. can modify your existing kickstarter cover to accept his clutchadjustor modification or supply a new cover with the mod already in place. Colin explains themodification: The kickstart modification is achieved by letting in a block of alloy below the G91pivot point. This is then machined to accept ET27/1. G91 is then lengthened so that it pivots loweragainst ET27/1 effecting more lift at the push rod.Trying to keep up with the variations of multi-plate clutches on the market for our Twinspresents a challenge. For example, the knowledgeable Hervé Hamon of France tells me the 500Ttwo stroke Suzuki clutch can be used with no modification and is also extremely inexpensive.I understand the V-2 clutch is no longer being made by the New Zealand company thatintroduced it. It utilises Ducati innards and the only complaint I have heard coming from JustinMackay-Smith is that it is sensitive to dust caused by wear. He had no solution to the problem.While the V-2 name may not be utilised, it is my understanding the unit is still being madeby David Holder (who has manufactured the unit for several years) and supplied by The VOCSpares Company Limited, Vin-Parts International and Coventry Spares Ltd. in the US. Withoutentering the politics of the situation I believe it is termed a ‘multi-plate’ clutch and has gainedan admirable reputation in use. You can be sure if Patrick Godet is using it, it is reliable.If one digs back far enough I’m sure there are some politics involved in the manufacture of notonly this clutch, but many other parts as well. More than likely a supplier such as Ron Kemp orJohn Healy from Coventry Spares or The VOC Spares Company Limited stepped up and said, ‘I’lltake a number of them if you will make them.’Neal Videan makes the V3 clutch that has been installed in over 300 machines thus far. Heutilises many Kawasaki innards and the clutch is stout enough to have survived racer SteveHamels’ Bonneville runs. As noted, Neal’s work is admirable. Neal also makes a tensioner blade(PD9R) from British Crinoline Steel that is vulcanised with hard rubber to reduce primary noise.Cost is AU$55. Contact information is at end of this article.Hartmut Weidlich gave me a complete breakdown of the clutch he manufactures, and doesnot advertise. His e-mail follows: I am tired of advertising my clutch — as far as I know it is theMPH 728 PAGE 22 SEPTEMBER 2009


Reasonable <strong>Mods</strong> for Your <strong>Vincent</strong>: Part 2Carl HungnessIGNITION SYSTEMS: Your original magneto, restored with a modern day condenser willprovide you with years of service. Nevertheless, I recall having veteran <strong>Vincent</strong> owner Dick Perrycomment to me, ‘If you really want it to start very easily, and always idle, you’ll go to a batteryignition.’ I used a magneto for about 15 years and it was adequate for the job, once I learnedprecisely how to start the machine. Today we have more choices than ever before.First, the Series ‘D’ distributor can provide excellent service especially if you have the unitrebuilt. Roy Price performs the function and provides a new distributor for £165. He also rebuildsthe ATD for £105 and supplies new stronger units for £149. Contact information is: Roy Price, 14Heron Court, St. Neots, Cambs. PE19 1TH. Tel: 01480 473 225. He is a regular advertiser in MPH.John McDougal has a Harley-Davidson based battery operated conversion available as well.Address printed previously.The creative Francois Grosset has what is reported by no less an authority than Patrick Godetto be a fabulous electronic ignition system coupled with proper integrated mechanical advanceavailable for €500. The Grosset ignition is fitted as standard equipment on Patrick Godet’s Eglis, andit is therefore considered to be the finest available on the market. Patrick Godet has had experiencewith virtually every ignition system on the market and would utilise only the finest available.Francois and his son have also developed a small CNC machine and they are churning outspecialised items from motorcycle parts to artwork. We had a glimpse of some Perspex theyengraved with the <strong>Vincent</strong> logo, another of a pair of valves and a humorous piece sure to be lovedby those who are not fans of Japanese bikes. Francois is one of the industry’s more creative andartistic men whose presence is appreciated.Contact information is: Francois Grosset, Le Pont Ricoul, 35720 St. Pierre de Plesguen, France.E-mail: pontricoul@aol.comTony Harris is the man who has revived the old BT-H name with his self generating electronicmagneto also with electronic advance/retard. The BT-H unit has also received rave reviewsand I am a very satisfied customer. My own bike starts easier and I now trust the idle morethan ever. Tony’s Twin unit sells for £510 while the Comet unit is £460. E-mail: bt-h@bt-h.bizWebsite: www.bt-h.biz The devices are regularly seen in MPH ads.I do not have enough technical knowledge of other units on the market such as the Pazonand Boyer Bransden to give you an educated report, but both have been utilised successfully onour bikes. The Pazon unit has recently received great reviews on the <strong>Club</strong>’s Forum and they areconcentrating on the <strong>Vincent</strong> unit so it is surely one to be considered. Their website tells us thesystem was developed with assistance from veterans in the industry, Kirby Rowbotham and BobDunn. Website: www.pazon.com and Vin Parts International is a dealer for the Pazon systems.John Healy the man who quietly supplies <strong>Vincent</strong> parts in the US through his Coventry Sparescompany spent a good deal of time one day explaining to me just how to install my ATD back inthe days when we didn’t have the choices now available. It is wonderful to see several units onthe market.Last and certainly not least is the advent of a combination dynamo/magneto unit made inGermany and publicised on the afore-mentioned German spares website. We have been unableto obtain further information on this unit.AUGUST 2009 PAGE 23 MPH 727


ELECTRIC STARTERS: The aforementioned Francois Grosset solved the electric start problemfor <strong>Vincent</strong> Twins with his kit that leaves the stock kick starter in place, and usable. Francois’craftsmanship and dedication to the <strong>Vincent</strong> are well known in the <strong>Vincent</strong> fraternity and his‘electric leg’ has turned many a Garage Queen into a daily rider. Pricing starts at €1,500, contactinformation already provided. He regularly advertises in the MPH.Master <strong>Vincent</strong> engineer Bob Dunn has also installed electric starters on <strong>Vincent</strong>s but to ourknowledge does not provide a kit. Bob is well known in <strong>Vincent</strong> circles as being an accomplishedjourneyman in all manner of things <strong>Vincent</strong>. Contact information: dunn.vincent@virgin.net Todate we have not seen his starter advertised in the MPH which most likely tells us Mr. Dunn is anextremely busy man who may upon occasion be convinced to install an electric starter on yourbike. He is probably swamped with rebuilding work and may not market a kit.HEATED HAND GRIPS: I include these devices because I find them invaluable even on chillysummer evenings. I built my own utilising some phenolic that would just slip over the handlebar.I wrapped the phenolic with 24AWG Nickel Chromium wire so it didn’t touch the wire next toit. Then I shellacked the assembly daily for about a week to provide a slippery surface for therubber grip to slide over. Each grip is wrapped with one wire and both ends are fed to a deadshort. I fed them through the interior of the handlebar to a thermostat (later deleted). They workvery well at speed but sliding the rubber grip over the assembly provided an exercise in patienceand creativity.I have just discovered the Aerostitch Warm Wrap Grips part number 103 for US$45. Theyutilise the popular hook and loop attachment system so are easily removed. They draw 1.6 ampsThe same firm makes a heated grip kit part number 1400 for US$27 as well as heated grips partnumber 1891 for US$107. Tel: 800 222 1994. Website: www.aerostitch.com These are the folkswho make the high quality riding gear and their products are first class. They also sell heated seatpads as well as a line of heated clothing.PROPSTANDS AND CENTERSTANDS: If your <strong>Vincent</strong> has not fallen over because the stockprop stand is too short, then you have not experienced the accompanying frown that occurswhen you see your bike laying on its side. Personally I had the lugs on the stand assembly FT118ASremoved and re-positioned to give a greater angle. Then I lengthened the stand itself and finallyinstalled a cloven hoof to the bottom. My own bike has long rear springs and sits high.You can eliminate the procedure just described by buying a longer set of propstand legsfrom Michael Breeding who also makes the Series ‘B’ and ‘C’ feet. His propstand legs are 3½”longer and are made from 4140 Chrome Moly. They are priced at US$125 each and Mike reportsthey work perfectly even with a 21” front and 19” rear wheel. E-mail: mbreeding@cnsp.comWebsite: www.mikesindianparts.comNeal Videan supplies either a complete kit with or without a 1970–1982 Triumph propstandthat fits through the lower sidecar mount. The Triumph stand is so sturdy you can use it whilestarting the bike as well. The kit sells for AU$295 complete or AU$165 and you supply the leg.Neal also replicates the rear stand and the attendant Series ‘B’ or ‘C’ end castings ready to bebrazed in. Price is AU$275. Neal makes clutches and vulcanised gaskets which we’ll discuss later.Dave Hills’ tread down centre stands have also been one of the most welcome additions seenin recent years. His centre stands are fitted in about an hour and can be used on any suspension/tyre combination. The primer finish stands sell for £125, and are regularly advertised in MPH.E-mail: d.hills@ntlworld.comAnother suggestion comes from Jim Wilson who says I use a Honda F4 side stand bolted ontoleft side, FT106/8 plate. It must be shortened and slightly modified with a grinder.MPH 727 PAGE 24 AUGUST 2009


SEAT AND TANK COVERS: G. Bailey hasbeen supplying original style seat covers forSeries ‘B,’ ‘C’ and ‘D’ for many years, each pricedat £35 as are his tank covers. He too is a regularMPH advertiser. Contact information: G. Bailey,127 Wrose Road, Shipley, West YorkshireBD18 1NL. Tel: 01274 584 095.The VOC Spares Company Limited makes aLong Dualseat, extended by four inches (partnumber PR1BA) that is appreciated by all whohave used it.OIL LEAKS: There is no possibility I can tellyou how to make your <strong>Vincent</strong> stop leakingoil if you want to ride it. I have heard talesof master craftsmen riding their machines300 miles in a day and parking it over a whiteWhere will you beon 29th August 2009?If you’re not going to beat the <strong>Club</strong>’s AnnualRally, then you’ll miss theunveiling of the <strong>Club</strong>’snewly-donated bike.Don’t Miss it!towel and don’t doubt the stories. My own bike has gone for a couple of years at a clip withoutdripping, but she’s leaked more than she has held her liquids.There are a few seals on the market that can be utilised in place of the standard washers, suchas the A27 banjo washer. The two brands Dowty and Stat-o-Seal come to mind as well as theseals provided by Earl’s Supply Co. Earl’s has outlets in both the US and <strong>UK</strong>. They are basically apiece of rubber molded into a thin aluminum washer and work very well.However, Neal Videan seems to have come up with a set of re-usable washers that have provenexcellent in retaining the oil that Phil Irving said was, ‘devilish stuff to control.’ Neal’s VulcanisedNitrile Rubber inspection cap washers even allow one to position the <strong>Vincent</strong> name as he chooses.He makes washers for all of the bike’s applications including return oil pipes, banjo bolts andpushrod seals. Since he uses distributors in the <strong>UK</strong> and USA we’ll list contact information at theend of this article. Neal advertises upon occasion in MPH.Another master machinist, Dan Smith informs me, ‘A possible oil leak everyone misses in thekickstart cover is the drilled hole H. It has only a 1 ⁄32“ land between the hole and the bevel gearchamber. The same where the casting is relieved around the cam spindle boss. I’ve seen caseswhere the hole breaks into the bevel gear chamber or just comes to a sharp edge. I machine an‘O’ ring groove in the case under the G50 plate.’The ET188 little copper washers on your oil return lines are prone to leak and Member TomGross notes, ‘I ream them out so a ¼” O ring just fits. They let me tighten the bolts just enoughto keep things leak-proof and not enough to split the little fibre washers under the banjo, which Isuspect, is where most leaks come from.’ I agree — I have inadvertently ruined several of the smallfibre washers by overtightening. The copper washers are punched from a sheet and thereforenot flat when received. Some judicious work with a file, or better yet flat sharpening stones willflatten them.The Twin exhaust lifter anchorage tube ET168 will never get rusty as it provides a tunnelfor copious amounts of petroleum to exit the timing chest and cover the pillion passenger’sleg as well as your rear wheel! There is probably no other place on a Twin that leaks as much.Nevertheless, every major <strong>Vincent</strong> supplier contacted now supplies a kit to eliminate the leak.Contact information on each appear at the end of this article. You may have to dismantle yourtiming chest to install the kit, but the work is worth it. While you’re in there, the Series ‘D’exhaust lifter adjusters are recommended as replacements as they allow individual adjusting.Conway Motors Ltd. specifies ‘O’ ring seal kits for the nagging leaks on our G4 and G40 shaftsas well as crankshaft seal kits.AUGUST 2009 PAGE 25 MPH 727


Sealing the dynamo mounting holeadequately will most likely bring very desirableresults. The best we can recommend is to makesure you fit all the pieces including the ET164hat shaped washer and use silicone carefully.Again, Member Jim Wilson noted it ispossible to make a moulded seal for the dynamoopening by using a two part epoxy such asPOR 15 or one supplied by the Eastwood Co. Ihaven’t tried this dodge, but it seems like oneof the best suggestions yet.Pushrod tubes, especially on the diecastengines are a continuing problem. Iexperienced leakage and finally determinedthe opening in the head and the engine casewere not parallel. Robert Watson suggestedthe installation of aluminum inserts into theHave you paid foryour Annual RallyMeal Tickets yet?If not, please seepage fourengine case, properly ‘O’ ringed would solve the problem and it did. The inserts are grooved toaccept Viton ‘O’ rings to manufacturer specs can be Loctited in.The use of silicone is prevalent today and the following from Simon Dinsdale is useful: Siliconesealant can be very dangerous to use due to excess squeeze. I’m sure you have all heard thisbefore. The method I use on timing covers, etc. is to remove burrs (with a surface plate if you haveaccess) and remove all old gasket and oil by your own preferred method. Then, on the crankcasesurface smear a light coating of engine oil. On the other mating surface coat with your favouritesilicone sealant and assemble and leave for a minimum of six hours. Do not worry about excesssqueezing out. After the silicone has cured, dismantle the joint. A gentle tap with a rubber malletmay be required, but the oil on the crankcase should mean the silicone will have only adhered tothe removable cover.Take the cover away from the engine and trim off the dangerous excess silicone which hasbeen squeezed out.You how have the perfect moulded silicone gasket adhered to the removable cover whichwhen bolted up will not stick the parts together but in my experience created a leak tight joint.The cover can also be easily removed on the roadside if required and if the mating faces havenot been damaged, will seal back up without using any more sealant and the worry of excesssqueezing out. This method has successfully worked for me for years, but comes with the usualuse at your own risk disclaimers.One thing to remember when trying to locate a leak is that it is reported that air is swirlingforward under your bike at speed so as to mis-direct your inspection for sure.Among <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers you will find most stock Banjo Bolts with a drain plug and crankcaseor Gearbox with a magnet.ANTI-SUMPING VALVES: Even if your bike doesn’t leak oil, chances are it fills the sump upwith oil every time you shut it off and let it sit for a couple of days. Conway Motors Ltd. hascome up with a dependable and easily installed valve that will solve the problem. Installed inthe oil feed line, it keeps the oil from entering the sump. No problems have ever been reportedin utilising this valve.Draining the oil with the tubular valve in place presents a minor hiccup that can be easilysolved by having an extra A44AS fitting connected to another line. Thus, one unscrews the A44ASon the bike, screw in the new one that is attached to a hose you use for draining. A kit is availableto accomplish the task.To be continued…MPH 727 PAGE 26 AUGUST 2009


Reasonable <strong>Mods</strong> For Your <strong>Vincent</strong>: Part 1Carl HungnessThe very first thing I have to do is give a hearty ‘Thank You’ to everyone who has contributedto this article. Your comments and knowledge are central to its existence.If you are new to the world of <strong>Vincent</strong> motorcycles and actually plan to ride your machinethere are several reasonable modifications you will want to consider to make it a moretractable vehicle.One of the first things you should have is a basic library. You should consider buying: SpareParts List; Rider’s Manual; Know Thy Beast by E.M.G. Stevens; <strong>Vincent</strong> by Paul Richardson; FortyYears On and Ten More Years (two separate books) by Jeff and Lyn Bowen plus a copy of Original<strong>Vincent</strong> Motorcycle by Jacqueline Bickerstaff. The VOC Spares Company Limited and Vin-PartsInternational stock most of these publications between them.If for example, you need to adjust your gear change mechanism the advice you seek willprobably point you toward Richardson on page 76. Stevens’ work is not only a thorough treatisethat dissects the machine, it will provide you with a reference to locate every screw threadthroughout the machine and a materials list.The possibility exists you may want to become knowledgeable about virtually every segment ofyour machine, the problems and modifications that have been enacted before you. You will findno better reference source than the two books listed by the Bowens. They are a compilation ofMPH articles over the past half-century that will give you an education unequalled in any otherbooks on the subject. While there is no substitute for hands on experience you’ll find those whohave gone before you have written about your machine and have been where you are going. Forexample, you may not know how to set your timing to re-install your magneto. You’ll find a stepby-steparticle on how to locate top dead center, the first procedure necessary to accomplishyour goal.One of my goals is this article is to provide, most especially the person new to the world of<strong>Vincent</strong>s, an overview of the machine and modifications that can be easily accomplished. Let’sstart at the front of the machine with our braking system.BRAKES: The twin drum brakes on the <strong>Vincent</strong> were considered to be the best available whenthe Series ‘B’ Twin was introduced in 1946. The Motor Cycle magazine did a road test in May of1947 and reported a stopping distance at 30mph of 26’ on dry pavement. The Series ‘A’ machinestopped in 27’ reported an April 1938 edition of The Motor Cycle. I had measurements of 22’,22.5’, 26’, and 33’ in four attempts on my own Series ‘C’ and flat-spotted a rear tyre during thetests. From 50mph I stopped in 64.5’, 60’ and 75’.JULY 2009 PAGE 31 MPH 726


The <strong>Vincent</strong> brakes have been the subject of countless articles on how to make them moreefficient but at the end of the day, replacement appears to be the only method of achievingmodern day measurements. In my estimation, riding a stock drum-braked machine in a world ofdisc-brake automobiles is a dangerous proposition made even worse if you ride two-up.Several Members have installed disc brakes and it is outside the scope of this article to detailthe necessary modifications. Dave Lambert made a professionally produced kit to accomplish thetask. I rode Matt Biberman’s Black Shadow equipped with the Lambert discs and it worked toexpectations — it was perfect. Late news tells us that Dave has not sold a kit in over a year andis not actively seeking business. Nevertheless he may be contacted at: 132 Beaufort Street, DerbyDE21 6BB. Tel: 01332 369 047. The chance exists he can direct you toward disc installation as hehas solved the problems in a craftsman-like manner.Within the past three years we have seen two additional sets of brakes on the market for ourbikes. The first set is a twin leading shoe conversion advertised frequently in MPH. It is made by<strong>Vincent</strong> Speet and in a note from rider Peter Volkers he tells me he was able to stop in 16.8’ from30mph and 37.5’ from 50mph utilising this set-up. As noted, Peter is a journeyman rider whohas an earned reputation of being extremely proficient and fast. I know from experience to pulla very good front brake on full chat takes perfect conditions, and a good dose of bravado. Peterused only the front brake in his test.The point is, the twin leading shoe brakes will stop your <strong>Vincent</strong> rapidly if you have theability to use them. Former Hon. Editor Robert Watson was demonstrating the efficiency ofhis twin leading shoe brakes and literally locked up the front wheel at 60mph with two-fingerpressure. Robert is another accomplished fast rider who wants the insurance of knowing he can,if necessary, lock the front wheel. The new brakes are not as efficient as discs, but from all reportsthey seem to be the next best thing.This system uses a dual pull cable system, supplied. You won’t utilise the balance beam (F55) as itis no longer necessary. <strong>Vincent</strong> Speet also reports he will have old-style levers available soon as well.Information on the twin leading shoe brakes is available at: vspeet@vsmmetaal.nl <strong>Vincent</strong> makesregular and Black Lightning style plates for his units and are priced at €890 and €1,150 respectively.The VOC Spares Company Limited is the exclusive distributor for the latest braking systemon our bikes. New drums and backing plates which are 8” in diameter are now available. A finecolour photograph of the new set designed by Hugh McAllister is shown in MPH 716. Thesebrakes deliver 100 per cent increase in friction (braking) area. To date, I have not read of a reportof their actual performance and stopping distance. Like the twin leading shoe brakes, they requireno modification to the bike for installation other than making some new cables.We understand that Eric Kruse of the German Section has made some Black Shadow drums inaluminum with the liner shrunk in. He has used Ford Fiesta brake drums for the liners but we aresorry to report I have no additional information on his work. E-mail: germany499@voc.uk.comI won’t address our rear brakes because by far and away, the bulk of your stopping power ona vehicle in forward motion is on the front. Of course discs can be fitted to the rear as well andDave Lambert also made a kit to do so.For those of you who are using the Black Lightning style backing plates Russell Hartley makessome beautiful air scoops with etched gauze. He tells us the following: Yes, they fit straight ontoa Black Lightning back plate I have sold some to owners who have fitted my scoops straight ontothe <strong>Club</strong>’s racing alloy plates. I usually sell one scoop, one gauze and three 2BA cheesehead screwsFor £23.50 (you will need 3 ⁄16” whit screws for alloy plate I use 2BA or 5mm for the steel plate as Ihave sold some sets to fit on other bikes) Alloy air scoop £15; Stainless steel gauze £7.50. Tel: 01767650 049. E-mail: russellhartley314@btinternet.comJeff Bowen, for one, has successfully fitted a set of Grimecas to his bike and other twin leadingshoe setups can also be made to work, but none are a direct bolt on operation. For those interestedin the Grimecas see their website at: www.ajs-shop.co.ukMPH 726 PAGE 32 JULY 2009


SHOCK ABSORBERS AND SPRINGS: Moving upward on the machine we can address our shockabsorbers. While high mileages have been obtained with the stock shock absorbers, it must benoted our originals were among the first ‘airplane’ style hydraulic shock fitted to a motorcycle. Ibelieve the first bike fitted was a Velocette and if memory serves correctly our engineer Phil Irvingcreated that shock. You should remember hydraulic shock absorbers were new to the automotiveworld in 1946 and the first ones had their share of teething problems.You’ll find numerous articles on how to refill your stock shocks as well as cures to prevent themfrom leaking in Forty Years On. Personally, I recommend replacement of both front and rear andI believe doing so along with attention to our springs and rear suspension method, especially onthe Series ‘B’ and ‘C’ machines, can transform them into great handling modern day vehicles. Thisis not to say the stock shock absorbers will not perform adequately when in perfect condition butit is difficult to argue with more modern technology that is now available to us.For years one of the most popular shocks to fit to the <strong>Vincent</strong> has been the Koni and I believe itis now called an IKON. While positive comments may abound rider Mike Alexsander noted minedidn’t fit without grinding the front mount and on the rear I found they bottomed out on the smallestof bumps. They were returned and money was refunded. Contact: Recommended Service, 1064Revere Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124. Tel Dave after 1300hrs West Coast time: 415 738 9441.E-mail: ikonusa@gmail.com Website: www.ikonsuspensionusa.comThe Armstrong brand has also been proven to be reliable. There is another shock named AVO aswell that has gained popularity. The last I heard from the supplier Russell Kemp had him installingone of the AVO units on his own machine so I am taking it for granted the brand is well-respectedas the engineering oriented Jeff Bowen was the first to install the AVOs on his machine andpenned an article for the minor mods necessary to fit. Part number for the AVO is PA100/75. SeeMPH 657 for a report. Contact info: www.avouk.comA note from Chris Chant says: My Series ‘C’ Rapide came to me in the late 1980s with Armstrongunits fitted. 30,000 miles later they still perform nicely along with Series ‘D’ front (softer) springs.My recollection is that Konis were good on the rear but rather too stiff on the front for solos.A note from Steven Lindbloom states: I personally do not think stock shocks can be made towork well and always have wondered what the high priced rebuilds available now actually dobesides a better seal. I did a lot of experimenting with them at one time, including grafting valvebits from various later Girling shocks on, but they never seemed to work all that well.The inspiration for the Thronton system seems to have been a comment by Phil Irving in oneof his books, that with good damping it is possible to greatly reduce spring rates, and greatlyimprove ride and handling. He probably realised this too late for <strong>Vincent</strong>s to take advantage of it,and later improved shocks like the Konis were always limited by the stock, heavy-rate springs. Itwas not until the Thornton that someone got around to matching softer longer springs and verygood dampers, with impressive results. Thortons shocks are made by WP (Works Performance),but I believe the specs for that particular model are proprietary to Thornton and can only be hadfrom them, but there are other <strong>Vincent</strong> people who have worked out their own specifications withWP. Similar softer, longer springs are occasionally available from other sources much cheaper, butunless they are used in conjunction with really good dampers may disappoint.Konis were just shocks, no spring, same size as stock, not terribly sophisticated, just a fairlycrude adaptation of a standard design to fit the <strong>Vincent</strong>, rather than something really engineeredfor the machine. But late 1950s rather than 1940s technology so still quite an improvementover stock. Lack of machine-specific engineering is actually, in my opinion, the problem with justabout all the <strong>Vincent</strong> shocks, with a possible exception of the WP since their modular methodof handling valving etc. offers a lot of flexibility for customising, given a discerning customer tohandle the road part of the development.JULY 2009 PAGE 33 MPH 726


Spax, who has always had a good if somewhat cultish reputation for their auto shocks wasinduced to make shocks for the <strong>Vincent</strong> once, but abruptly pulled out after they were sued by acustomer, feeling the potential market just wasn’t large enough to justify the risk lawsuits. Theyhad a recall, but many owners chose to keep them. They were externally adjustable, but otherthan that fairly comparable to the Konis.’Personal experience has taught me the shock absorbers supplied by Laney Thornton are superbat both front and rear. Because I was involved in the auto racing industry for three decades I hadaccess to a shock dyno and tested mine after 25,000 miles. They were in perfect condition, andI have covered an additional 40,000 miles thus far with them. Again, the technology for greatshocks just wasn’t available at the time the factory produced our machines. The Thorntons aredistributed by Dave Molloy who can be contacted at molloy@inrech.com Thornton is a regularadvertiser in MPH.Here’s a note from Dave Molloy from my research: Carl, thanks for your inquiry. The basicfeatures of the Thornton suspension system are two fold: 1) the springs are about 20 per cent softerrate than standard but are longer to give more preload to maintain the ride height and 2) the shocksor dampers are a modern design manufactured exclusively for us by Works Performance and arevalved differently front to rear to match the differing spring rates. We do make front springs andI make the one inch longer inner spring boxes to help align the inners and outers at full extensionwhich is one inch longer than standard <strong>Vincent</strong> springs. As of this date the standard front and rearkit is US$840 and the longer spring boxes are US$120 a pair extra. Dampers alone are US$290 each.Our German friends have written to me and stated: Our program includes gas shock absorbersmade in the original style as well as improved cylinder heads, a combined dynamo/ignition systemetc. The website to check is: www.vincentsparesgermany.comInformation supplied by: Michael M. Burkert, Ernst G. Ahrens GmbH, Wendenstrasse 29 — 20097Hamburg Germany. Tel: +49 40 232384. Fax: ++49 40 232387. E-mail: michael.burkert@egah.deWebsite: www.egah.deI have not seen the gas shocks (or other products) noted in the above e-mail but have no doubtthe craftsmanship is first-class. I am surprised and saddened the German products have notbeen advertised, or publicised in our MPH pages. First, we know MPH Hon. Editor Graham Smithwill gladly publicise new products for our bikes, and secondly it seems only reasonable anyonemaking a <strong>Vincent</strong> part would surely want to inform riders worldwide and the MPH is the naturalpublication to do so.Rider David Dunfey has seriously addressed the spring questions by actually having somenew front springs made. His are 14” length and had two rates made: 75lbs/in and 110lbs/in.Comparatively the Thorntons are around 50-60lbs/in spring rate. David’s theory is that the stocksprings must be compressed at least three inches which means they have a tendency to extendthe front end. The shorter springs want to ‘settle’ down from full extension. The 75lb springswere designed for the Comet and the 110lb for a Twin. In practice David’s springs have provensuccessful, plus they can be installed without the use of a compression tool.David didn’t make the springs as a business venture but some are available through SamManganaro. E-mail: hrd998@verizon.net David is hoping the VOC Spares Company Limited orThornton will be impressed enough to make them available.Colin Jenner of Conway Motors has provided me with an impressive list of mods he makesfor the <strong>Vincent</strong> which includes the longer Petteford springs popular for decades as well as alloyracing type brake plates and he notes he makes, ‘modified and improved <strong>Vincent</strong> dampers.’ Healso supplies heavier front brake cables with longer adjustors. The Petteford springs are the samewire diameter as stock, just longer.Veteran <strong>Vincent</strong>eer Justin Mackay-Smith (the VOC’s Advertising Manager) had some longersprings (and rear spring boxes) made that work perfectly on my bike. Justin was not interested ingoing into the spring business but it is entirely possible to clone what he made as I had springswound to my specification in England once. He can give you the specification.MPH 726 PAGE 34 JULY 2009


Concours judging aside, we have often heard the very reasonable argument stating basicallyif a particular technological improvement had been available at the time, the originators ofour machines would have included it. By the mid-1950s when the last Series ‘C’ and ‘D’s wereproduced, there had been improvements in shock absorbers and the disc brake was at least beingintroduced on some racing vehicles. Equally as important to me is the change in the method ofsupporting the rear of the seat. Our Series ‘B’s and ‘C’s had the seat hooked directly to the rearswing arm assembly which caused the back of the seat to rise and fall half the distance the rearwheel travelled up and down. The factory fully sprung the rear wheel on the Series ‘D’ by runningstruts downward which ultimately connected to the engine. Countless owners of the prior seriesmachines have copied the arrangement and have seen marked improvement in ride and handling.Personally, I wouldn’t want to ride a machine with the stock struts after experiencing the handlingafter deleting them. It is a simple mod to make struts and connect them to the FT108 FootrestPlates. On my own machine I spent countless hours fabricating a goofy looking battery carrierthat ultimately cantilevers its way over the rear mudguard, holds two passengers and the largestpanniers I have ever seen on a <strong>Vincent</strong>.Speaking of panniers there is a great looking photograph of what are called stock <strong>Vincent</strong>panniers on page 219 of Know Thy Beast. While painfully small their design and construction issuperb. Member Derek Sayer supersized the design and has produced a few sets that are equallyas gorgeous, but we haven’t seen them advertised in the past several years. It is of course stillpossible to fit the once very popular Craven bags. However, even author E.M.G. Stevens said ofthe Craven mounting system they are, ‘positioned too far back and too high, whilst the systemlacks the necessary rigidity.’Consequently you are pretty much on your own when it comes to fitting a set of panniersto your machine. I believe you will find the possibilities much greater if you do in fact unhookthe rear of the seat from the swing arm assembly and consider building brackets that can bemounted to the seat itself. You will undoubtedly achieve a better handling vehicle by allowingthe rear wheel to be fully sprung. Bear in mind what rider Mike Hebb reminded us about settingthe rear chain tension: ‘The rear chain is at its tightest when there is a straight line between thedrive sprocket center, the RFM pivot and the driven (rear) sprocket center. Raising or lowering theRFM above or below this line will only loosen the chain.’As we are riding what the designers called ‘a high-speed long-distance touring machine’ itseems to me to be a sad state no one has come up with an improvement for fitting a large setof panniers to our bikes.STEERING HEAD BEARINGS — TANK SLAPPERSThe original ¼” steel balls, 20 of them are required for each bearing and upon occasion thebottom cup has been found to be loose. Christian Patzke has created a tapered roller conversionkit for all <strong>Vincent</strong> H.R.D. head races and reports he has sold over 100 of the units that aredefinitely a good idea to install. A minor amount of material must be removed at the bottomof the bearing housing to allow the cage to clear. This can be machined, or even ground with arotary hand tool. E-mail: info@patzke-fahrzeugbau.de Website: www.patzke-fahrzeugbau.deThe <strong>Vincent</strong>, along with a multitude of other motorcycles can experience a phenomena knownto motorcyclists as a ‘tank slapper’ whereby the front wheel will shake violently from side to side.I believe the engineering term for this condition is dynamic coupling. You will feel as thoughthe machine is a piece of spaghetti attempting to throw you off into oblivion. Many of us haveexperienced this uncontrollable condition and the very first question asked is, ‘Did you have thesteering damper tight?’ Well, not tight, but just biting. You don’t want to ride your <strong>Vincent</strong> witha loose steering damper. In fact, many have installed an exterior steering damper in the form ofa gas-filled shock that ultimately attaches to the front cylinder head. You’ll find a how-to-do itin Forty Years On. These wave like forces pass through the machine vertically, horizontally andlaterally and are deadly. You want your front end in perfect condition.JULY 2009 PAGE 35 MPH 726


Alternators and Ignition: Electrical System: The reader should bear in mind that I’m notan electronically oriented individual but one who has simply paid attention to the victories andvagaries of the <strong>Vincent</strong> electrical system, especially after experiencing significant problems withthe standard system.We know the standard voltage regulators of yesteryear have been much improved upon bythe advent of the solid state regulator. I can report from experience my old Miller generatorperformed brilliantly for about a decade after having it rewound along with the utilisation of aKen Bell regulator. Sadly, Ken has passed away and after many years of usage so did the regulatorI installed on my bike. It ran a 60 watt quartz halogen headlight bulb and my heated hand gripsadmirably. I did not find a replacement that worked as well, so I ultimately opted for a unit knownas a McDouglator.The McDouglator was conceived by John McDougal when a friend brought him a Kubota tractoralternator. John devised a gear case to drive the unit that utilises a set of gears that literallyclone our cam drive gears. I believe he has sold well over one hundred units that have performedperfectly. I know mine has, and I have heard nothing but great reports on the installation. Johndoesn’t advertise and the only way I know of contacting him is via telephone on: 604 327 1019or write to him at: 82E. 50th Avenue, Vancouver, BC V5X 1A2. There is a detailed article aboutthe unit on www.thevincent.com Of course the alternator is 12v and since it was designed forindustrial usage it is trustworthy on our bikes and is a direct bolt-on unit with no modifications.John uses the Kubota regulator and he has attempted to destruct it in all manner of operationsand it has passed the most rigid tests. The regulator is large and won’t come close to fitting inthe old stock case, so I mounted mine under the battery carrier and put the stock one, empty inits usual position so the passer-by glances and doesn’t notice the whole plot has been modified.One of the most popular generating units on the market today for our bikes has been developedby Paul Hamon and is called the Alton. Paul has had, I believe three incantations of his chargingsystem and the latest has received magnificent praise from users world-wide. Paul also suppliesa modern rectifying regulator (negative earth) and promises a two year replacement warranty. Ican report from experience Paul is a gentleman of the first order to do business with and we inthe motorcycle world are fortunate to have a man of his dedication and craftsmanship interestedin our hobby. Tel: +33 298 283 575. E-mail: formats@blue-mail.comThere is yet another reliable system available developed by Norman Walker and Dick Sherwinthat uses a Citroën 2CV alternator which will provide 12v and 30 amps. We have not seen thekit advertised but have heard many testimonials as to its efficiency. The alternator is belt drivenand of course bears no resemblance to the stock set-up. Contact information is: Dick Sherwine-mail: dicksherwin@btinternet.com and Norman Walker e-mail: enw07@btinternet.comThere are numerous voltage regulators on the market which will provide good service but it isoutside the scope of this article for me to compare them all. I refer the readership to the popularwebsite www.thevincent.com and search under ‘Electrics’ to gain some knowledge. Overall,most of our <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers can make regulator recommendations and many are supplyingunits that fit into the stock Miller cases. It has been reported some units actually leak amperageand may cause you a dead battery within a fortnight, so research is suggested.Hartmut Weidlich, versatile machinist and <strong>Vincent</strong> rider who hails from Germany notes: If anAlton is used any regulator from a Jap bike that has permanent magnets in the flywheel such as RD250/350 or SR/XT 500 will work.Doug Wood the man who set up the jtan e-mail service dedicated to the <strong>Vincent</strong> is also amagneto and dynamo restoration man. He notes some of his customers still insist upon restorationof their old electro-mechanical regulators as opposed to replacing them with the modern units.MPH 726 PAGE 38 JULY 2009


LIGHTS and BULBS: Given our modern technology there are more options for lighting yourvehicle than ever before. Member Paul Goff at: www.norbsa02.freeuk.com (and a frequent MPHadvertiser) offers us an alternative to fitting a modern reflector in the standard headlight shellby supplying a line of quartz halogen bulbs with the original Bayonet cap and British pre-focusbases. They snap into the existing headlight and provide much better lights. They are availablein both 6v and 12v versions. Paul also supplies LED conversions for the stock tail lights that arebrighter. He supplies daytime pilot bulbs as well.There are several reflectors you can fit into either the 6½” or 7” headlight shells that willaccept quartz halogen bulbs. Member Jim Wilson has researched many units and gives methe following: The Hela 7003 and the Puma 440-498 0638 will work in the ‘T’ clip variety whilethe 7” split rim will accept the Hella #1A6 003 402 812 12v unit 154 or #70003 fits the 6½”‘T’ clip while the #70476 fits the 6½” ‘T’ clip. The only contact we have for Puma is via e-mail:info@puma-access.comI found that a Honda V-45 unit from a 1982–1983 bike snaps into the original clips with nomodification. However the outer glass on this unit is caulked in place and must be broken outfirst. I have run mine for about 15 years. I am told a Suzuki GS500E from the mid-1990s willalso fit and also a Honda Super Dream unit #CB2 50N for <strong>UK</strong> applications that dips to the right.Steven Lindbloom reminds me that you can use any 7” light unit you like in the 6½” shell if youutilise the Dietz reproduction rims.Jim Wilson also reminded me that Chicago Section Member Paul Holdsworth and Glen Shrivermade a deal with Radiantz to make 50 LED conversions for the tail-light assembly a few yearsback that had 46 dual filament 12v bulbs and three white bulbs for the number plate. TheSection sold all the units but Radiantz may still supply the internals. Contact: 96106 Ferrelo Road,Brookings, OR 97415 USA. Tel: 877 469 4241.BATTERIES: We include the following only because this unit has such a high amp hour rating andwill fit inside an Exide case. Information provided by Mike Hebb:It fits very nicely and puts out 14 amp hours which is unusually high for a small 6v. Size is2 3 ⁄4”x 4 3 ⁄16” x 5 1 ⁄2”. Called the dealers and the price was US$29, two years agowww.parmakusa.com/additional/parts.htmI am utilising a Yuasa YTX7A-BS 12v battery that is just a tad tall for the Exide case and israted at six amp hours. The gel cell batteries have also gained popularity. Knowledgeable TrevorSouthwell suggests a Hawker Genesis or Odyssey unit.A hollow black battery case and shell top, part number 99-920, cost US$54.56 is availablefrom www.waldridge.com as well as from many <strong>Vincent</strong> suppliers.To be continued…

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