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This month’s <strong>CIC</strong>Board of DirectorsAlbert van ElstPresidentpresident@thecic.eu6940-517120Jayne JusterVice Presidentvicepresident@thecic.eu6942-267292Kath WallsSecretarysecretary@thecic.eu6949-419571Anne BorghgraefTreasurertreasurer@thecic.eu28250 32238Sheila TeasdaleMembershipmembers@thecic.eu6956-061907Non BoardAdministratorsWeb AdministratorAndy Davieswebadmin@thecic.euAdvertising ManagerAlbert van Elstpresident@thecic.eu6940-517120Newsletter Editorial & LayoutHarvey Smitheditor@thecic.euThis month’s <strong>CIC</strong>The Cretan International Communityof Chania was established in 1989as a support group for people of allnationalities living in Western Crete .Thanks to this month’s contributors:Bruce, Michael, Janet, Vassilias, Sheila,Sue, Maria, Maggie, Don, Ingo, Ray,Annie, Viv, Linda, and board members.To Advertise in the <strong>CIC</strong>:Advertising space, free business listingsand classifieds are all available. Pleasecontact the Advertising Manager orEditor as listed below left, or email:cict<strong>imes</strong>ads@thecic.eu<strong>CIC</strong> MembershipIf you have recently moved to Crete, the<strong>CIC</strong> is a great way of making new friendsand contacts and finding help andadvice. To find out more, please contactSheila Teasdale by email: members@thecic.eu or tel: 6956-061907Submissions:We are always keen to receivesuggestions, letters, regular articles,photographs relating to Crete from ourmembers. Please contact our editor, byemail: editor@thecic.eu.The <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong> is a publication of theCretan International Community.It is published monthly on our website.www.thecic.euThe Cretan InternationalCommunity Board Membersand the <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong> staff cannot acceptany responsibility for opinions expressedby individual contributions to the <strong>CIC</strong><strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong>, and we neither endorse nor agreewith any of the statements or opinionsexpressedThe Cretan InternationalCommunity is a non-profitorganisation and was established asa support group for people living inCrete. The organisation is managedby a 5-member Board of Directors,Administrators and Volunteers.Newsletter DesignCathryn StefanopoulosAddress:Cretan InternationalCommunity,Daskaloyianni 46,73100, Chania, CreteWebsite: www.thecic.euEmergency Services Numbers in CretePolice: 100Fire Brigade: 199Ambulance: 166Tourist Police (Chania): 28210 73333Tourist Police (Heraklion): 28102 83190Tourist Police (Rethymno): 28310 53450/28215European Emergency Number: 112


Contents•••••••••••••interactive contents pageJust click on the page number in the right hand column to go direct to that page.To return to this index from any page - click on the orange bar at the bottom of each pageEmergency Numbers 2President’s Page 4Coffee Mornings 5<strong>CIC</strong> Trip Report - Gournia 6Rethymno Red Cross 11Rethymno Coffee Morning News 12Matala Festival 13Sara’s Hope News 14Cretan Corner 15Community & Group Activities 16Messages and Name Days 17Bronze Age Crete - object 4, the cheesepot 18Church Services & Embassies 21Walking 22Cycling & Running 24Charity Fashion Show 26KAG - Vamos Arts Month 27Crossword 28<strong>CIC</strong> Business Directory 30Dog Pound Blues 32First Boureki 33Courgette Patties 35Spring Photos 37WordWeavers/Greek History - Food 39WordWeavers/A Memorable Meal 41WordWeavers/Early Days Part 5 43... and Finally 453<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Coffee Mornings<strong>CIC</strong> Coffee MorningsMembers of the Cretan International Community meet regularly – different days at different locations – for coffee ortea and/or lunch. The meetings are a great way to network, see other members and learn about upcoming events. Fornewcomers to the island, the meetings are an excellent way to meet people, seek assistance, ask questions and makefriends. Every meeting is co-ordinated by a member of our organisation. A very warm welcome to all members andnon-members.Chorafakia/AkrotiriEvery Wednesday of the monthWednesday <strong>May</strong> 2, 9, 16, 23 & 30th at Sunset Taverna @ 11.00am – 1.00pmA social group, sharing information, ideas and recipes. Book exchange. Raffle and a game of Bingo. Newcomers welcome.Contact: Lesley Killick on 28210-39262, e mail: killick@hol.grGeorgioupolisEvery 1st Tuesday of the monthTuesday 1st <strong>May</strong> at Sinatra’s Bar @ 11.00 – 12.00 pm.Sinatra’s Bar is located in the centre of GeorgioupolisPlease ring for further details and to check availability.Contact at Sinatra’s is Kate 6942 817043 or Jayne Juster 6942 267292.KalivesEvery 2nd Friday of the month.Friday 11th <strong>May</strong> at ApiCorno Café @10.30am – 12.00pmA forum for exchanging information etc, especially for newcomers to Crete, meet newpeople, join in our book swap - bring your old/new books to swap, and have a coffee.Contact: Jayne Juster 6942 267292 E mail: janejuster@ymail.comRethymnoEvery 1st Monday of the monthMonday 7th <strong>May</strong>, at Palazzino di Corina @11.00am - 1.00pmWe meet at 11 o’clock at the café attached to the Hotel called Palazzino di Corina. Theentrance to the café is in Melissinou St – it is opposite the Opera bar /nightclub– this is theoneway street which goes from the old port area towards the Police Station.For further info please contact Anna on 28310 57305 or 6938 708410 or capernaros@ret.forthnet.grMembers are welcome tocome to coffee morningsin order to organiseother activities.i.e. reading groups,cards, etc. Please feelfree to stay after to doyour own thing.<strong>CIC</strong> Monthly LunchWednesday 16th <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong> @ 1.00pmTa Aptera Taverna, ApteraThe <strong>May</strong> lunch is at the Taverna, “Ta Aptera”, whichspecialises in wonderful home-cooking.If you would like to join us for this lunch please let meknow by 14th <strong>May</strong>. Further details and directions availableby email.Phone: 6942 267292 Email: janejuster@ymail.com5 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Gournia cont’d•••••••••••••••••••••7 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Next morning after a hearty breakfast, the Group travelled by coach from Ag. Nik. along the coast to Gournia, wellsupplied with bottles of water and a sizeable crop of “Archaeologist” hats and sunshades because the weatherwas at last very hot. Turning our plans and maps round and about to fit the puzzles together we tripped upthe steep cobbled pavements between the solid looking walls and traced out store rooms, staircases, windowledges and door steps. We could just make out the remains of columns in wider courts, ledges for pots in tinydownstairs rooms, carved out stones and small corners for some kind of divine ritual and another space at thetop of the hill for a community gathering (just where you might find a small chapel in modern day Crete). Therewere many questions to ask about daily life as a Late Minoan and not so very many easy answers. We wantedto know about carbon dating, latest microscopy, 21st century AD answers to 4000 years of passing historyand it was almost reassuring to conclude how much we still have to learn, compare and guess about our Cretanhistory and landscape. The burning question of the hour was … did they have toilets? Answer: there is noevidence to inform us one way or another.While all this architectural interest was happening, it was hard not to exclaim at all the plants and herbswhich were growing amongst all the large stones, pillars, porticoes and crevices around the site. Manyof us puzzled over a Minoan corner turning our heads this way and that (err, which way is North?) andespying a particularly dainty or unusual flower re-focused our cameras!


Gournia cont’d•••••••••••••••••••••8 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Gournia cont’d•••••••••••••••••••••by Viv Walker10 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>When I visited Gournia last year, the American archaeologistswere working on site (all the excavations in Gournia havebeen by Americans). The report of their work has not yet beenpublished though some of their findings are already known.One of these was the discovery of defensive fortificationsdown by the ship sheds near the sea. Exciting, and somethingwe did not know.This is a sacredstone or Baetyl,which wasdeliberatelyplaced in thepavement ofthe street in theancient town ofGournia. Peoplecould then cometo make offeringsor worshipAbove, the Greekguide is answeringquestions fromsome participants.We had to bedivided into 2groups becauseof numbers so wecould pester theGreek guide whileDon was explainingthe area we were into the other group.Don is explaining the finer pointsabout the structure of one of thehouses on the site.Thank you to:Report and photographsby Viv Walker ©


Rethymno Red Cross•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••by Bob Wright11 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Coffee & CakeMorningin aid of theGREEK RED CROSS(ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΟΣΕΡΥΘΡΟΣ ΣΤΑΥΡΟΣ)Bob & Eveleen Wright invite you to come to ourCoffee & Cake Morning, in aid of the Greek Red Cross.Sunday 13 th <strong>May</strong>, <strong>2012</strong>10.30 to 13.00All money received goes to the local Rethymno branch, to buy food forneedy families and rescue equipment for the SamaritansDirections to Villa Estia - MaroulasFrom Chania: take the National Highway, through the underpass at Atsipopoulo, past the football groundon the left, to the next exit , signposted to Arkadi and Lidl. DANGER – this is a “Z” bend exit which turns off at nearly180 degrees. Some large buses and lorries cannot make it in one go and will reverse back on to the highway!! At thetop turn left and enter Tsesmes and follow below.From Platanes: (5km east of Rethymno) , to Arkadi, past the new Lidl. In Tsesmes, DO NOT take the first turn right toMaroulas. Continue towards Adele, past Complete Stores and EKO garage on right . Pass the Animal food factoryand on the right is a mini-market O Manos.The next right is the turn to Agia Paraskevi and Maroulas. 100m further is a 3 way junction. Take the right turn toMaroulas and we are the second house on the right, after a construction site,and before the first large bend.Entrance – 10 euros per person for coffee and cake including a raffle ticket


Rethymno Coffee Morning News••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••12 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>From Anna Capernaros,Thank you for all the positive responses to myemail regarding the summer venue for thecoffee morning.The vote was a resounding YES to CampingElizabeth for the summer months June, July,August and September.As for the day, most of you did not mind eitherway. There were a couple of preferences forkeeping to Monday and a couple who mightprefer Thursday. So for the moment, in orderto avoid confusion, let us change the venue only and stick to Mondays for now.I have spoken to Elizabeth as Christopher is in Athens for Easter and she isdelighted to have us for the coffee mornings.So the last, for the moment, meeting at Palazinno di Corinna will be <strong>May</strong> 7th at11.00 am.The first coffee morning at Camping Elizabeth in June will be onMonday June 4th. at 11.00 am.The July, August and September meetings will be on the first Monday of therelevant months.After the meetings we can swim, have lunch and also playBOULES !! Elizabeth says that is fine, she has a set butnobody has used them!Kimon and Merope had suggested playing Boules at theCampsite and have also got a set of Boules, so pleasecontact Kimon or Merope at:kimcap@hotmail.co.uk or m.capernaros@hotmail.co.ukto register interest in playing.If anyone else has ideas for any other activities,please bring them up at the <strong>May</strong> coffee morning ...Cheers Anna


Matala “Hippie” Festival••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••13 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Matala Open AirFestival <strong>2012</strong>2nd - 4th June“Matala Open Air” is a 3-day music festival with live music and beach parties, right in front of the famouscaves with music from the sixties and seventies. The sound & music of the legendary Woodstock festival witha varied programme including lots of live music and a party atmosphere with many kinds of activities suchas a Hippie bazaar, and Hippie events, accoustic live music, concerts, happenings, exhibitions, children’s funpark ... and more!If you join the party, please send in your photographs tothe <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong>!!!


Sara’s Hope Foundation••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Saturday 26 th <strong>May</strong>“Backtrax” Charity Concert in KefalasThis live music event takes place at Mantalene`s Taverna in the village square. Many ofyou will already know how good Backtrax are, and that they’re worthseeing more than once!Come along and relive the good old days, get up and have a dance (the Twist?!), singalong, and generally have a great evening!Tickets are only €5 and will be available at Mantalene’s nearer the time.For more information please contact Ged on 28250 31818 or 6942 670983.http://sarashopefoundation.co.uk/news-and-events/news/Red Palm Weevilremains a threat on Crete!We have received this request (below) to help with research on the Red Palm Weevil here on Crete.Please can anyone help us with this? If you are interested please get in touch with me. I will sendyou a collection vial and instructions for how to deal with your specimen in due course.I do hope that we can help with this project as now the weather is warming up,the weevils will be flying again.“I’m a researcher at Rome University in Italy and my main research interest is related to molecular systematicsand molecular ecology of phytophagous beetles. I’m interested in the invasion process of the Red Palm weevilfrom the genetic point of view.I am writing to see if it would be possible to obtain from you some specimens of RPW for the study I’mconducting here. Specimens preserved in 95% ethanol (or acetone, better) with collecting data (i.e., place ofcollection [town, state GPS coordinates], date of collection, and collector’s name) would be very useful formy study”.Please let me know if you can help with this request.Thank you very much.Many thanks,14 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Juliajulia@flowersofcrete.info


Cretan Corner••••••••••••••••15<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>CRETAN CORNER Cafe/Taverna••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Situated in Megala Horafia Square, Aptera, Cretan Corner is the ideal spot to refresh yourselfafter a visit to the Archeological site of Ancient Aptera, or a drive through the magnificentvalleys of Apokoronas.During the summer the Taverna is open for meals & is also well-known for theSaturday Cretan Dance Evenings led by the younger son in traditional costumes.Book early to ensure an unforgettable evening of entertainment.<strong>May</strong> programme••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Current Art Exhibition: JAN LIODAKI. Exquisite work in a variety of media.Friday 4th <strong>May</strong> 11am‘A Brain Surgeon Goes to War’Later, in the Territorial Army, he was deployed in Gulf 1, Kosovo, Gulf 2,& Afghanistan, as anArmy Neurosurgeon.The talk is about his experiences on the last tour in Afghanistan.Contributions to the Army Benevolent Fund are welcomed.FRIDAY 11th MAY 11amLocal expert David Capon will share his knowledge on Cretan Flora & Fauna with adelightful,illustrated ‘Birds & Bees’ Nature TalkFRIDAY 18th <strong>May</strong>: To be confirmedFRIDAY 25th MAY 11amPhotography with Terry Bridge.Terry will be exhibiting his splendid work at CretanCorner until 26th June.FRIDAY 1st JUNE‘ROYAL JUBILEE BANQUET’- Shared Party Lunch to celebrate the Royal Jubilee!!Bring your flags & something edible & come & join the fun!Don’t Forget ... Monday meals ... Weekly Social at 7.30pm, CRETAN CORNER FRIENDSgather informally for Monday meals & social.CRETAN CORNER TAVERNA is now open on a daily basis fordelicious cooked meals, drinks & snacks.Email: suecretancorner@gmail.com orTel: 6909 800998 or 28250 32241


16 12<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Information••••••••••••••Community & Group ActivitiesMONDAYSCancer Support GroupFirst Monday of each Month at11:00am in Georgioupolis. Forpeople who have been throughor who are undergoing treatmentfor cancer, as well those who haverecently lost someone to cancer.This is a support group, not atherapy group and confidentialityis a given. Contact Mrs ChrisParnassus at 6977 559644 oremail: cparnassus@hotmail.comChess ClubEvery Monday at 8:00pm in CafeFrancoise in Almyrida. Everyonewelcome. For more informationplease call Georges Simon 2825041940 or 6945 645264 or email:gsms@otenet.grQuiz NightEvery Monday at 8:30pm inBicorna Café, Plaka.Call Helen on 6945 764870 formore informationTUESDAYSKAG & Liakoto Film ClubEvery second Tuesday at LiakotoArt Café, Vamos. For full scheduleof films visit the KAG website atwww.amygdali.comWEDNESDAYSCoffee MorningInternational Society of theKissamos Area (ISKA) 4thWednesday of the month at11:00am at To Kellari Taverna onthe seafront in Kissamos. Secondhandbooks and DVDs on sale forone Euro each – proceeds goingto local animal charities. Pleasebring along any unwanted booksand DVDs to add to the collection.For more information contactKaren on 28220 23546 or email:membership@iska.grTHURSDAYSNeapoli Friends’ MeetingEvery Thursday at Café Driros(opposite the park) at 11:00am.For more information visit thewebsite at www.inconews.com orcall 28410 32483FRIDAYSAptera FridaysEvery Friday, 11:00am, at CretanCorner Taverna, Megala HorafiaSquare, Aptera. Lectures on awide range of subjects, exhibits,lessons, baked goods and more.For more information and aschedule of upcoming eventscontact Sue Harris Kokotsakis on6909 800998.Quiz Nightevery Friday at 8:00pm in ApopsiTaverna, Neo Horio, Apokoronou.for details call 28250 41807SATURDAYSQuiz NightEvery Saturday at 9:00pm in TheHideaway, Nea Chora, Chania.For more info call 28210 88849.SUNDAYSQuiz NightEvery Sunday at 9:00pm inSirocco, Almyrida. Call Helen on6945 764870 for more info.FORGOTTEN YOURUSERNAME & PASSWORDFor the website?FORUMwww.thecic.euAsk atmembers@the cic.euAlcoholics Anonymous (AA)MeetingsRethymno. Mondays & Thursdaysat 3:00pm. For more informationcall Hans-Juergen 28310 91073 orChristine 693690 5848.Sternes. Wednesdays 7:30pm. Formore information call Ken 697 6613716 or Mary 693 419 7767.Kefalas. Tuesdays at 7:00pm. Formore information call Christine orArchie 697 943 4598Heading toward Ierapetra? Needa meeting? Call Sharon 2842027518.Near Ag. Nikolaos? Need ameeting? Call Sharon 2842027518 or Janet 28420 27225 / 697939 3098.Cretan Cooking with KoulaTwice a month, Koula Barydakis,co-author of the cookbook “Foodof Crete”, conducts cooking classesat her home in Chania for <strong>CIC</strong>members. The cost is €25.00 for<strong>CIC</strong> Members and €30.00 fornon-<strong>CIC</strong> Members and includesall ingredients, a copy of therecipe and of course the lunchof your labours. Participation islimited to 10 people. For moreinformation or to reserve yourplace, please call Koula directly at6972 169031.Bereavement GroupA new group is now availablefor anyone grieving the loss of aloved one. For more information,please get in touch with ChrisParnassus on 6977 559644 oremail: cparnassus@hotmail.com


17<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Messages•••••••••••<strong>CIC</strong> FacebookPageHere we will announce the last minutenews, events, links to interesting sites, etc.Members of the group may announcetheir news, promote their business, theiractivities and add photos into the album.To publish messages or comments youmust be a member of the <strong>CIC</strong> Facebookpage!Car Repair & ServiceOriginal spare part sales -After Market and Used sparesAll makes serviced.Established over 20 years -Chatzidakis NektariosSpecialists in Chrysler,Jeep, Citroen and Peugeot.Courtesy Car available.Our Autofit qualified technicians are constantlytrained in the use of diagnostic equipment onmodern vehicles - all work carried out is basedon the vehicle manufacturer’s specificationsusing quality parts.For this reason, the factory warranty of yourvehicle continues to apply.Autofit will also provide a 1 year warranty onparts and labour.08.30 - 17.00hrsMonday - Friday• Servicing• General Diagnostics• Lubricationoil and filter change• Brakesanti lock braking (ABS)• Shock Absorberssuspension• Steering• Clutch• Exhaust systemscatalytic converters• Exhaustemissions testing• Batteries• Auto Electronics• Lighting• Air Conditioningmaintenance and repair• KTEO Preparation<strong>CIC</strong> Members’ offer15% OFF Car Batteries!Situated in the centre of Souda VillageChatzidakis Nektarios, Autofit, Eth. Venizellou 76, Souda 73100, Chania, Crete+30 28210 89855chatzidakis@autofit.gr www.autofit.grCalendar ofGreek Name days,Saint Days &HolidaysFor Greeks, name days are much-anticipated annualevents. More significant than birthdays, they arecelebrated on the particular saint’s day with gifts, sweetsand parties. Traditionally, people celebrating their nameday wait for guests to visit them at home. Even if a partyisn’t held, the person celebrating their name day offerssweets or drinks to family members, friends and workcolleagues. It is customary to accept these and wish theperson Hronia Polla (meaning ‘many happy years’).As name days are so significant in Greek culture it is wellworthwhile finding out your friends’ name day. Mark itin your diary so you can wish them Hronia Polla. Yourclients will greatly appreciate your effort to celebratetheir special day.Saints/Name Days<strong>May</strong> 2 - Zoodochos Pigis<strong>May</strong> 3 - Timotheos (Timothy, Tim)<strong>May</strong> 5 - Eirinis, Irini (Irene)<strong>May</strong> 6 - Serafim<strong>May</strong> 7 - Akakios<strong>May</strong> 9 - Christoforos (Chris)<strong>May</strong> 10 - Simonos (Simon)<strong>May</strong> 11 - Kyrillos & Methodos<strong>May</strong> 13 - Sergios, Glykerias, Glykeria (Sergio)<strong>May</strong> 15 - Paxomios<strong>May</strong> 17 - Andronikos<strong>May</strong> 18 - Ioulias, Ioulia (Julia, July, Julie)<strong>May</strong> 19 - Menandrios<strong>May</strong> 21 - Konstantinos & Elenis,Konstantinos, Kostas, Thina,Kostathina, Eleni (Helen, Tina, Dina)<strong>May</strong> 27 - Ioannos Rosos<strong>May</strong> 28 - Tis Analipseos<strong>May</strong> 29 - Theodosias<strong>May</strong> 30 - Isaakios (Isaac)Public Holidays<strong>May</strong> 1 - <strong>May</strong> Day<strong>May</strong> 6 - Election Day, Greece


Bronze Age Crete in 50 Objects - No. 4••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Don EvelyBRONZE-AGE CRETEin 50 ObjectsObject 4: The ‘Cheesepot’: Newcomers at theNeolithic/Bronze Age Transitionor The <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong> They Are A Changing ...Following the success of this format as initiated recently by the British Museum, I continue topresent an eclectic voyage through the world of the Minoans and the later Mycenaean settlers onthe island. Whenever possible a new object/s will be presented each month.In the second half of the 4th millennium BC (3600–3000), Crete gradually left behindits slow-developing and somewhat conservative Neolithic traditions. This wasachieved under the impact of immigration on some scale: for which the ‘cheesepot’ ishere offered as a representative token. The phenomenon to be outlined in this pieceembraces much of the east Aegean in various ways — Crete is but part of a biggerstory.‘Cheesepots” from CreteIn what is termed in Crete Final Neolithic (FN) III, roughly 3600-3300 BC, new groupings ofpeople culturally within the existing native Neolithic traditions establish new settlements.Some like Phaistos are large and obvious, others like Katalimata are small and hidden away.Both may be viewed as exemplifying a shift to higher and potentially defendable hill-top sites:very much so in the case of Katalimata.18 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Bronze Age Crete in 50 Objects - continued•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••19 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Katalimata at the Chagorge mouthPots from KatalimataNowicki argues that the cause of such insecurity becomes plainer in the succeeding period (FNIV, 3300-3000 BC). Now an influx of novel cultural customs and materials can be detected all overthe island, most typically being concentrated first on the coasts. Here the new foundations have adefensive quality in their placement within the landscape, enhanced by suitably placed walls of piledup boulders. The south coast is heavily represented: most densely at the south-east corner (fromZakros, clockwise around to Goudouras) where some 25 or more settlements are known. Settling oncoastal ridges and promontories, the pioneers later pushed up gorges towards the interior uplands.Another cluster of a dozen villages is concentrated for a few miles either side of the Plakias bay,with a handful more (3) at the very south-west extreme of Crete. Nowicki wonders whether offshoreislets (e.g. Gaidouronisi and Koufonisi) acted as the primary bridgeheads: they were open andundefended, but were certainly inhabited too. (Early Iron Age Euboeans adopted a comparable tacticwhen establishing mercantile colonies off the Tuscan coast of Italy.)Site 14: protected by cliffs and wallSettlements in the SE corner of Crete


Bronze Age Crete in 50 Objects - continued•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••These toe-holds could be quite small: covering a mere 50 x 40 m in the main; and their occupation need notbe for very long. Since there is no indication that the incomers moved out of the region again, it must betheir descendants who go on to expand into the interior of the island in the next centuries. For a while, theseinland sites too retained a liking for hill-ridges and defensive gestures. Only gradually did their confidenceand conditions improve. Finally groups spread through the whole landscape and into the lower terrains.The incomers are believed to be somewhat more technologically advanced in areas such as the burgeoninguse of copper, and perhaps organised in more socially complex manners.Where might these new people be from? Tellingly, those on Crete are but part of a broader pattern seen in theeast Aegean. Not dissimilar stories can be told concerning the Cyclades, for example. It is towards Anatoliathat one’s eyes are drawn as the ultimate source of the pressures now in play. But no Anatolians may havestepped directly onto Cretan soil. Rather the material assemblage, especially the pottery, indicates moreimmediate ties with the Dodecanese. Interestingly and just before 3600 BC, the Dodecanese was heavilyoccupied, but soon after experiences a massive drop in population — just as the new settlements start inCrete. Are the two phenomena linked?Looking at the pottery, different sets of people can be recognized as moving into Crete. Along the southcoast, the Red Wares utilised are seen too in the south Dodecanese; for the north Cretan coast, the tiesare more with the north and central Dodecanese, and to a small degree with the Cyclades (earliest Pelosculture). These two or three groups, eventually joining with the native Neolithic Cretans, go on to providethe main population base for the now emerging Early Bronze Age culture on the island.Crete, the Dodecanese and AnatoliaIn conclusion: in the initial phase of contact of westward immigration into Crete (for motives yetunknown) both the migrants and the locals felt insecure. The natives as a result tended to bunchtogether and/or retreat to upland eyries, whilst the strangers clung to defensive sites by the coasts.Slowly the two sets seem to have lost their mutual suspicion, as no doubt they began to intermarryand so merge. The amalgam proved potent: perhaps serving to ensure later immigration, as we shallsee in a while.This piece is based heavily on K. Nowicki, The Final Neolithic (Late Chalcolithic) to Early Bronze Age Transition in Crete and the South-EastAegean Islands: Changes in Settlement Patterns and Pottery, from Escaping the Labyrinth: Cretan Neolithic in context, ed by V. Isaakidou andP.D. Tomkins, 2008 (Oxbow Books). The usual disclaimer applies to errors of misunderstanding by D. Evely.20All the images are from the above chapter, apart from the coloured one of a ‘cheesepot’, which is from the Web.<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


21 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Church Services & Embassies•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••TO HAVE YOUR LOCALQUIZ NIGHT ADDED TOTHE LISTING Please email:editor@the cic.euCross-Cultural Centre ofChania32 Athinon, ChaniaSpecialising in English Language& Cultural programs forEnglish-speaking children.Saturday drop-off program forchildren interested in art,rhythm and movement.Contact:Alexandra MihelakiTel: 6948 364682Carla StavridiTel: 6948 364681Karen SifostratoudakiTel: 6948 364680Consulates &EmbassiesAustriaDedalou Str, HeraklionTel: 2810 223379BritainCandia Tower, Thalita 17, AgiosDimitrios Sq, HeraklionTel: 2810 224012Canada4 Ioannou Ghennadiou Str, Athens,Tel: 210 7273400DenmarkMonis Agarathou 22, HeraklionTel: 2810 243714Finland87 Eleftheriou Venizelou Str,Hersonissos, HeraklionTel: 28970 22395/22556GermanyDikeossinis Str, 7, 712 02, HeraklionTel: 2810 226288Goethe Zentrum, Digeni Akrita, 1stFloor, ChaniaTel: 28210 6887NorwayVironos 4, HeraklionTel: 2810 341872The NetherlandsDimokratias 11, HeraklionTel: 2810 241 700SwedenAIlianthos Hotel Agia Marina, ChaniaTel: 28210 60605USA91 Vasilissis Sophias Ave, Athens,Tel: 210-720-2419Duplicate BridgeClubs in Crete(Members of the Hellenic BridgeFoundation)ChaniaDuplicate Bridge Club of Chania,Akali Hotel, 55 Kissamou Str, ChaniaTel: 6936821850 (Greek)Tel: 6938-639823 (English)RethymnoROM Rethymnian Bridge Club,Melidoni 1, 741 00 RethymnoTel: 28310 20828Fax: 28310 35456HeraklionPLI TOURIST CLUB OF HeraklionMegaro Dore, 712 01 HeraklionTel/Fax: 2810 223690Mountaineering Clubof ChaniaTzanakaki 90, ChaniaTel: 28210 44647Open weekdays 9pm-11pmOrganises one and two-dayexcursions on a regular basis.Amnesty InternationalContact AthensTel: 21036 00628New Life Centre5th Floor, 2 Sfakion(next to music shop), ChaniaServices in English every Sunday 11:00amTel: 28210 52540Pentecostal ChurchSfakion 51, Chania(Behind old Olympic Airways Service)Sunday 10.30 amEtz Hayim SynagogueKondilaki str, ChaniaNicholas Stavroulakis-HannanTel: 28210 86286www.etz-hayyim-hania.orgThe Assumption ofOur LadyCatholic ChurchChalidon Str. 46, ChaniaTel/Fax: 28210/93443Holy Mass:Sunday 10:00 amWeekdays 7:00 pmDaily Mass at 6pmSt. Antony of PadovaCatholic ChurchMesologhiou Str. 23, RethymnoTel: 208310/26416Holy Mass:Saturday 6:00 pmSunday services start in SpringSt. John the BaptistCatholic ChurchPatros Antoniou Str, HeraklionTel/Fax: 2810/346191Holy Mass:Saturday 6:00 pmSunday 10:00 amInternationalFree Evangelical ChurchCorner of A. Papandreou & Mitsotaki(downstairs), ChaniaRev. M. SchwitzkyTel/Fax: 28210 78779Services in English & GermanSunday 10:00 amBible Study Friday 10:00 amEvangelischerGottesdienstin Deutscher Sprachejetzt regelmäßig auch in Ihrer Nähe,Chania ChalepaNormalerweise am vierten Sonntag immonat um11.30 amKontakt: Pfarrer Dr. Otmar HesseTel: 2810 823486/114Mob: 6978 788970pfarrer@evkikreta.dewww.evkikreta.deThe Chapel ofSaint Thomas the ApostleKefalas, Vamos, ApokoronouChurch Leader, Rev. Terry WilcockTel: 28250 23270Holy Communion:every Sunday 11:00 amwww.theanglicanchurchincrete.co.uk


22 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Walking - with “The Happy Wanderers”•••••••••••Walking Dates for yourdiaries, <strong>2012</strong>“The Happy Wanderers”We are “The Happy Wanderers” walking group and informationabout schedules, arrangements, meeting place and timetogether with occasional photographs are exchanged by emailvia “Google Groups”. Walkers do not need to be members ofthe <strong>CIC</strong>, and the group contains a wide variety ofnationalities, ages and abilities.Sun <strong>May</strong> 13th: Marathokefala RidgeWalk. (Viv & Graham Walker)Sun <strong>May</strong> 27th: Amoudari - Niato -Imbros (Richard & Barbara)Sun Jun 10th: Platanias area (Harry) -End of SeasonNo charge is made (although contributions to certain charitiesare welcomed) and those who organise and lead the walksaccept no responsibility for accidents, injuries or losses.Anyone wishing to be kept informed of forthcoming walksshould email Richard and Barbara Johnson atjohnsonr@otenet.grDeliana Gorge Walk ReportMonday 16th April by Viv•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••The Deliana gorge walk took place on Orthodox Easter Monday when Crete was listed as the hottest place inEurope! Fortunately the gorge was nice and cool. it was very pleasant walking in the shade of the plane treeslistening to the sound of running water. The stream was well down so crossing the stream was not difficult.The hottest (and in parts the steepest) bit was climbing up to the rim of the gorge but we caught a coolbreeze, which helped and that stayed with us on the walk down to Deliana village.We stopped below the ruins of the Byzantine castle for a break (where I took some of these photos).We had a lovely lunch in the Gorge Taverna - good company and excellent food. All of the food exceptsome of the salad tomatoes was sourced from the taverna itself. Everyone said they enjoyed it!


Walking cont’d•••••••••••••••••••Litsarda Walk ReportSunday 22nd April by Viv•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••This walk went from Litsarda to Kefalas and Xirosterni.Leaving Litsarda we has lovely views of the White Mountains and the Vrysses valley. We then entered theunknown following goat tracks into Kefalas forest where it was lovely and cool but footing was uncertain sowe had a bit of a scramble. One glade was filled with the beautiful pink umbels of Allium nigrum (below). Wildgladioli and pyramid orchids were also in flower. Leaving the forest we climbed up to the village of Kefalas,through the village and down to the village of Xirosterni with views of Vamos and the surrounding villages.Jo (in blue on the left) organised us all in her usual inimitable style. Well done to Jo - there were47 people walking. Not only did she and Rob organise the walk but they organised a pizza for usafterwards, which was thoroughly enjoyed by all.Many thanks to Jo and Rob for organising this walk.23 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


24 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Running & Cycling•••••••••••••••••••••••Cretan Cycling Challenge25th - 27th <strong>May</strong>VOLUNTEERS NEEDEDA weekend of high-quality cycling comes to Chania at theend of <strong>May</strong>. Based at Limnoupolis Water Park, a numberof road races and time trials will take place.The event is part of the UCI World Cycling Tour, and I’msure we all hope that it will be the first of many such racesto come to the new cycling paradise of Crete.All of the racing will be in the area south of the Chaniato Tavronitis road and should provide some excellentspectating for those of us not taking part.There are two sports events during <strong>May</strong> and June for which “Sports Promotions Hellas” invites volunteersto assist in a variety of capacities such as administration, registration, timekeeping, announcements,meals, medical services, etc.The events are :UCI World Cycling Tour <strong>2012</strong> – a European qualification race named “ Cretan Cycling Challenge”.Dates - <strong>May</strong> 25th. – 27th.Starting and finishing point is Chania – Limnoupolis Water Park.International Beach Running.See next pageFor full details and downloading of volunteer or participation registration forms please check our website.http://www.sphellas.com/


25 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Running & Cycling•••••••••••••••••••••••Beach Running Programme of Events6th <strong>May</strong>: Beach of Rethymno3rd June: Beach of Platanias, Chania1st July: Beach of Paliochora5th August: Beach of Aghia Apostoli2nd September: Beach of Georgiouplois30th September: Beach of Nopigia28th October: Final Beach Running at RethymnoYou can also contact <strong>CIC</strong> member, Axel Wernerat axel.werner@sphellas.comhttp://www.sphellas.com/... and a Couple of VERY Long Mountain RunsSamaria Run ... <strong>May</strong> 20thA 20km race for theseriously fit; startingand finishing near thetop of Samaria Gorge.The race begins at 8.30on Sunday 20th <strong>May</strong>and finishes aroundlunch time.The race route goesa few kilometres intothe gorge beforecontinuing up andround to the KallergiHut, before finishing atthe head of the gorge.The closing ceremony isscheduled for 13.00.For further online information click HEREPsiloritis Race ... <strong>May</strong> 27thJust seven days afterthe Samaria Run, howabout a run up thehighest mountain inCrete?The Psiloritis Race isover 30kms long andtakes place on Sunday27th <strong>May</strong> at 7.30.The race is expectedto last around sevenhours and is limited to300 runners who willhave spent monthsand years training forthis type of event.www.psiloritisrace.com


KIFAAMEA••••••••••••••••26<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>KIFAAMEADay Centre in Chania for Children with Special Needsfundraising event ...FASHION SHOWSaturday 5 th <strong>May</strong>, 11am – 2pmENTRY BY TICKET: € 7.00 (or pay on the door)(includes 1 glass of wine/or 1 cup of tea/coffee)Second year... TWICE AS MANY MODELS!!Clothing commentary to guide your purchasesMODELS will show the latest collection of clothing and accessories supplied by:Georgia at Orion (Kalyves) and Karen (Kolymbari)*Clothing, accessories, cards, etc. available for sale after the show.A RAFFLE WILL ALSO BE HELDTickets available viajill.jesper@yahoo.co.uk or molliemny@googlemail.com ortickets can be purchased from Jon the Butcher in Vamos, the Pear Treein Almyrida, from Diane or Jackie at St Thomas’ church, from Top of theGear in Kolymbari and from Orion in Kalyves.


KAG - Vamos Arts Month in June••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Friday 15 - Thursday 28Art Exhibition ‘Portraits’ (Opening 18:30 Friday 15th)Roger Gilding & Brian StewartFree admission Dourakis Winery, AlikamposSunday11:00 CNext inFree aPROGRAMMEThursday 7 - Saturday 918.00 ‘Sandcastles’: a Toneel drama productioni7.50 (children i5) Vamos AmphitheatreFriday 811:00 - 17:00 Arts, Crafts and Local Produce MarketFree admission Liakoto Art CaféMonday 11 - Sunday 24Open Art Exhibition (Opening 18:30 Monday 11th)Free admission Bloumosifi TavernaFriday Monday 15 - Thursday 11 - Sunday 28 24Art Exhibition Art Exhibition ‘Portraits’ (Opening 18:30 Monday Friday 11th) 15th)Roger The Gilding Art of & Nikos Brian Stavroulakis StewartFree admission Free admission Dourakis Liakoto Winery, Art CaféAlikamposFriday Tuesday 15 1220:0020:00Neil InnesSpecialinFilmconcertNight‘The Rutles’ starring Neil Innes, Eric Idle,i10Dourakis Winery, AlikamposMick Jagger, John Belushi and othersplus the world premiere ofSaturday ‘Invasion 16 of the Big Breasted Women’20:00 starring Meet Neil Mosquito! Innesi7.50i7:50 including free Liakoto ‘Mosquito!’ Art Café cocktailOld School, VamosSunday 1720:00 Sunday Neil Innes 24 in concertarket Friday 15th) i8:5011:00 Children’s Book Vamos Launch Amphitheatre & Painting WorkshopNext in the ‘Fairy’ series by Francesca Harrisonlikampos Tuesday Free 19admissionLiakoto Art Café20.00 Special Open Mike NightTuesday 261th) Free admission Liakoto Art Café12:30 Poetry & Prose Eventlikampos Various contributorsThursdayFree admission21Liakoto Art Café‘Longest Day’ Piano Recital & Dinner1th) KAG Thursday Friends only: 28 invitations to follow20:30 Ross Daly & Villa friends Cologne in concerti10Dourakis Winery, AlikamposFriday 2220:30 Saturday Special 30 Greek Film Nightre‘Loafing20.00andGalaCamouflage’Finale ConcertNikos Perakis (1984)Big Fish, Chris Beeching, Mosquito!, Cats’ Chorusa Vamos Art & Thought presentationand othersi 5 incudingi10free glass ofVamoswineAmphitheatreVamos AmphitheatreFriday 1520:00 Neil Innes in concerti10Dourakis Winery, AlikamposSaturday 1620:00 Meet Neil Innesi7.50 Liakoto Art CaféSunday 1720:00 Neil Innes in concerti8:50 Vamos AmphitheatreTuesday 1920.00 Special Open Mike NightFree admission Liakoto Art CaféThursday 21Sunday ‘Longest 24 Day’ Piano Recital & Dinner•11:00 KAG Children’s Friends only: Book invitations Launch to follow & Painting Workshop•Next in the ‘Fairy’ series Villa Cologne by Francesca HarrisonFree admission Liakoto Art CaféFriday 2220:30 Special Greek Film NightTuesday 26‘Loafing and Camouflage’ Nikos Perakis (1984)12:30 Poetry & Prose Eventa Vamos Art Thought presentationVarious i 5 incuding contributors free glass of wineFree admission Vamos Liakoto Amphitheatre Art CaféThursday Saturday 23 2820:30 Rembetiko Ross Daly in & Concert friends in concerti10 a Vamos Art & Thought Dourakis presentation Winery, Alikamposi 5Vamos AmphitheatreSaturday 3020.00 Gala Finale ConcertBig Fish, Chris Beeching, Mosquito!, Cats’ Chorusand othersi10Vamos AmphitheatreReservations should be made for:• Toneel drama production• Neil Innes• Ross Daly• Gala Concert• Special Film Premiere NightIf you have not reserved and paid for a ticket wecannot guarantee a seat.For more information about all these events,please email francesca@amygdali.com or call 28250 22515 www.amygdali.comTickets can be reserved by the public from April 15.‘Friends of KAG’ may reserve tickets now.27 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Tuesda12:30 PVariouFree aThursd20:30i10Saturd20.00Big Fisand othi10Reserv•••If youcannotTickets‘FriendFor moto buywww.amfrancesProgram


28<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Crossword•••••••••••••The newCrosswordPuzzlecompetitionEvery month in our <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong> we publish a crossword puzzle. To inspire and energise you forthis “brainwork”, we introduce a competition to “hurt & train” your brains every month!All readers of the <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong> that complete the puzzle and deliver it as below, we offer on ayearly schedule, a prize from the <strong>CIC</strong> .We have created a points system to find a winner !!10= super correct, 9= only 1 mistake, 8= more than 3 wrong, 7= more than 5 mistakes, and6= more than 10 answers are wrong.How can you enter this competition?Well first of all complete the crossword puzzle. Preferably every month.Send, or give the solution to one of the <strong>CIC</strong> board members, before the 21st of each monthWait for the result in the next <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong>.After 1 year, running from June to June we will announce the winner and the prize!Deliver the crossword puzzle solutions -Answers to Crossword 43, published Apr <strong>2012</strong>1) At all our coffee mornings2) At all our excursions3) At all other activities, if they werepublished in the <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong>4) At any of our board members’ addresses ortheir emails.5) Or by sending them to editor@thecic.euGOOD LUCK!!Albert


Crossword no.44 - Painters*•••••••••••••••••••••by VassiliasAcross2.* Spanish tennis star’s start. 7.6. Lop the end off hot thing & get the opposite. 5.9.* Degas ends heart palpitations picture. 3.6.10. The male in the romance. 3.11.* Reportedly anger business. 6.13.* with 2down – Shade or alien to. 10.16.* Car maker, crazy cow & ex p.m. 4.5.5.20.* Classic motorbike, commercial vehicle & (as said inUS) go. 7.3.4.24.* The scapegoat before hunt. 6.26. A French night cut short for uni. 1.1.1.27. Step 9 across would take many of. 3.28.* He made a bigger splash. 7.31.* See 1down.33.* 30across, A is producer of bubbles. 7.34.* Paul sounds like claggy soil. 4.29Down31 across, favourite location1.* Apartment with1st word of 16 across &of Constable. 8.4.2.* see 13across.3. Was Edgar Allan thisfaced ? 3.4. Turkish head cooker. 3.5. see 32 down.6.* Cockney god, very warm. 5.7. 10 across – ½ way to Eire. 3.8. Slow movements stolen clumsily. 6.12.* Type of master 2across was……. 3.14. * …….& 29across could be called this. 3.15.* Initially El Greco, Freud &Titian makeamphibian. 3.17. Apple --- Millen. 3.18.* About French black. 6.19.* Mother’s boy puckered up. 8.21. Dali & Bosch hold Nigerian. 3.22.* A called woman often painted by 33 across. 3.23.* Urge back in small Hoover – card. 3.4.25.* A chum confused Alphonse. 5.27.* Ache with a point 1st,was where El Greco gotfame. 4.28. Artistical master has peace. 4.29. Computer Frans without plural. 3.30.* Veronese has help for skin complaint. 1.1.1.32.* with 5down – of the French cross. 9.<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


<strong>CIC</strong> Business Directory30 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong><strong>CIC</strong> Business DirectoryThis is a listing and is free to all of the members of the <strong>CIC</strong>. This directoryis updated every month with the publishing of the <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong>. To make acorrection, please contact the membership secretary at members@thecic.eu. To advertise in the <strong>CIC</strong> <strong>T<strong>imes</strong></strong>, please contact our Advertising Manager atcict<strong>imes</strong>ads@thecic.euAlternativeAstrology & Tarot Reading.Horoscope reading, child’s horoscope,& tarot. Topolia, Kissamos. www.atrosophia.eu, Tel: 2822 051195,email: denise@astrosophia.euArtsDanceStudio KER, Expressive Dance Classes& Pilates-Andrews MatWork, Dangli22A, Chania, Effie Caloutsis tel: 2821052295 kercrete@otenet.grRAQS SHAQI: Dance of the East.Group and private lessons, Workshops.Natalia Karavi, Tel. 6976 209338email: nataliakaravi@hotmail.comPainting & DrawingCrete international School of ArtRethymno. A structured learningenvironment - drawing, painting, 3Dstudies - for all wishing to extend theirskills and visual awareness.Tel 28310 41403 / 6945846800Kalamitsi Arts Group. Creative events& activities. Kalamitsi Amygdalou,Vamos, Chania. Tel: 28250 22515,Mob: 6945 020497Linda Talbot. One day workshops inmixed media including creative collage(from deities to Dolphins) at Sea Songsstudio in Maleme. Contact Lindaon 28210 62913 or 6946 247837,lintalgr@gmail.comMaria Hoffmeister. Paintings,drawings, arts & crafts, courses& workshops, private lessons.Georgioupolis, Chania.email: hemahoff@web.deBeautyChiropodist. Pedicure, manicure.Aghios Onoufrios (Sodi), Akrotiri,Chania, Agnes Nikolaidis-Brouwer,Tel: 28210 69693, Mob: 6973 720424Creative ServicesGraphic design & Illustration.BA(hons); logos, menus, books,brochures, leaflets, magazines,stationery, greeting cards. CathrynStefanopoulos, Tel: 0044(0)1883741974, email: cathryn.gilbert@gmail.comCar RentalEurocars, G. Lourentzakis & SiaO.E. ,Adelianos Campos, GR - 74100Rethymno. Tel 28310 71053 Contact:Ingo Dietrich www.eurocars-crete.comComputerSoftware/NetworksJuergen Wagner. IT-softwaretrainingand consulting. MSOffice(Excel, Powerpoint, Word etc.),German & English speaking.Rethymno, Tel: 6955 041081, email:wagner.kreta@web.deLuc Brusten Computer Consulting.Web & database design. Mob: 6946694948, email: info@lucbrusten.com, web: www.lucbrusten.comX File Computers. PC Service,Technical Support, Upgrades, CustomNetwork, Peripherals, PC Accessories,Kalives, Tel. 28250 31561, Mob. 69888017474CookingCretan Cooking with Koula.Cooking courses. Tel: 28210 92069Crafts & HobbiesCross Stitch Crete. Cross stitch kitsand patterns. Kalives. web: www.cross-stitch.creteforyou.comTel: 28250 32562Tetraktis Studios Potteryworkshop. Verekinthos handicraftvillage No 6, Souda Interchange.Tel. 28210 80118, email: info@tetraktis-studio.grGarage ServicesAutofit Souda. Car repair andservice. Established over 20 years.Situated in the centre of SoudaVillage. chatzidakis@autofit.gr,www.autofit.gr Tel: 28210 89855Home ServicesProperty ManagementMoonspinners Crete SecurityLocksmith Service & PropertyMaintenance. www. villa-security.com, PO Box 12 Vamos Post Office73008 Vamos, Apokoronas,.Tel. 28250 83219,email: service@villa-security.comM&M Management & More. Villa,holiday-home care. Tel: 6936 359979Home Services SECURITY SparkElectronics. Burglar Alarm Systemsand Installation, DVR Digital VideoRecording Cameras, Day/Night,British Brands. Tel. 6944 508907,email: sparkelec@windowslive.comThe House Keepers, Pet care,Gardening, Pool Cleaning, BasicHouse Cleaning, Small repairs,painting, insulation, Judith &Manos, Tel. 6976 135827, email:juditha2011@hotmail.deHotels/Villas/CampingAkrotiri Villas Crete Ltd. Selfcateringapartments. Akrotiri Villas,Stavros, Akrotiri. Tel: 28210 39005,Fax: 28210 39570, email: avcrete@cha.forthnet.gr, web: www.akrotirivillas.comCamping Elizabeth. Camp &caravan rentals. Missiria, Rethymno.Tel. 28310 28694, mob. 6936632754/ 6947 17270LanguageEveryday Greek, Learn Greek the funway. Megala Horafia, Chania, SueHarris-Kokotsaki, Tel: 2825 031940Tutor & Wordsmith, Mary ElizabethOlsen. Masters degrees, English &journalism professor. University ofMaryland, 20 years in the writingbusiness, TOEFL-certified. Tel:6934197767MassageMassage Treatments. DeepTissue, Acupressure, IndianHead,Aromatherapy, Baby MassageClasses. Gift Vouchers. Contact GinaKernutt. Tel 6982 440271MedicalDentistDental Practice. 5 Papanastasiou,Chania, Tel: 28210 45600, email:drailakis@gmail.comNutritionUta Wagner. Nutrition scientist,therapy & consultation: food allergy,diabetes, malnutrition, cancer,etc. German & English-speaking.Rethymno. Tel: 69556 98051, email:uta@leckeres-kreta.deOphthalmologistElena Pavlidou. Trained in UK.Sfakion 46-50, Chania, Tel: 2821020399, email: elenpavl@hol.grPsychology/PsychotherapyChris Parnassus-Tripodianakis.Counselor. Hortatzi 47, Rethymno,email: cparnassus@hotmail.omMob: 6977 559644.


<strong>CIC</strong> Business DirectoryProfessionalServicesInvestmentde Vere Group, Greece. Asset/wealth management & retirementplanning. crete@devere-group.comContact: Mike +30 6932 470023LawyerChara LiandriLawyer (English-German-Greek)IG. Gabriel Street, Rethymno, Crete28310-53227email: chara.liandri@gmail.comReal EstateAtrium Crete Estates. Armeni,Chania, Johanna Fröhlking,Tel: 28250 41440, email: info@atriumcrete.com,www.atriumcrete.comHania Rentals Search Service.K. Sarpaki 38, Chania, DebraPapadinoff, Tel: 6938 639823, email:haniarentals@yahoo.comCrete Perfect HomeProperty Sales/Rentals &Maintenance, Kampouri 4 Kissamos,contact; Stuart Simon, email: info@crete-perfect-home.com 2822022585 mobile: 6974458179/80Homeland Real Estate. PlatiaAgnostou, Rethymno, CreteAxel Werner.IG.Gabriel StreetRethymno, Crete28310-57820www.luxuryproperty.grwww.sphellas.comSelect Properties65a Daskalogianni Street, Chania.Residential, land and commercial,Harvey Smith, 6943 613849, e mail:info@selectproperties-gr.comRestaurants/Cafes/BarsCafé Vafe. Petropoulakidon 21,Platea Vafe, Nea Hora, Chania,Tel: 28210 88849Cretan Corner. Megala Horafia,Chania, Sue Harris Kokotsaki, Tel:28250 32241, email: skokmegh@hotmail.comEl Mundo Bar. Kondilaki 35, OldHarbour, Chania, Thedore Hnaras,Tel: 28210 880440Glossitses, Nu Authentic GreekCuisine, Akti Enoseos 4, Chania OldHarbour, Tel. 28210 59074, email:glossitses@gmail.comKalamaki Restaurant-Bar-Café.Kato Galatas, Chania, AlexandraMihelakis, Tel: 28210 33100, email:alexmih@otenet.grKantina Stavros. Good food anddrinks at the nice beach of Stavros.Tel: 28210 39474Sinatra’s Cafe Bar. Georgioupolis,25m west of square across from thebutchers. Kate 6942 817043To Xani Restaurant-Café, ParodosKondylaki, Old Port Chania,Margie Poultidis, Tel: 28210 75795SportsDiving CentreKalypso Rocks Palace DivingCentre, Sofokli Venizelou 4a, 74100Rethymno, Crete.www.kalypsodivingcentre.comTravelNature & Adventure TouristAgency. Sofokli Venizelou 4a,74100 Rethymno, Crete. web: www.nat-adv.gr, Tel: 28310 56641Retail StoresAlbatros. Jewellery, silver, andleatherware. Betolo 33, Chania,Tel: 28210 59277Anastasia. Ethnic handicrafts,Native American items. Kondilaki33, Chania, Tel: 2821087160, email:karenincrete@yahoo.comBritish Food Store . Open forfood products from the UK. Open10.00 - 15.00, Mon- Sat. Maleme,nr Platanias, Chania. Stuart: 6941513845 mob during opening hours.COCO_MAT CHANIA Ecologicalproducts: Mattresses-Furniture-HomeAccessories Pithari Akrotiriou, ChaniaTel 28210 49249 email: chania@coco-mat.comEureka! Vintage, retro, nearly-new,second-hand shop. Smyrnis 1B,behind bus station, Chania.Tel: 69730 5696 Chania. Tel: 2821040676Marianna’s Workshop. Naturaloil/traditional natural products.Maroulas, Rethymno, Tel: 2831072432, mariannas@can.grToko, Asiatic food products, differentspices, frozen springrolls, duck, lemongrass, Tofu products, etc. MainstreetKalives, direction Neo Chorio,Tel. 6979 357995To Xani, Handicrafts, Greek,Cretan and local handmadeitems. Kondylaki 26, Chania,Margie Poultidis, Tel: 28210 75795,toxani@gmail.comOtherKoumani EnvironmentalSustainability & Ecology; LanguageTraining Samonas 73003 ChaniaMob. 6970 862835, email: robert@burlumi.comPapakonstantinou Georgia,Kampani, Akrotiriou, 73100 Chania,Tel 28210 50371, Mob. 6977 69086,email: georgia.papak@hotmail.comArtemis Case, Interior & ExteriorDesign, Crafts, Restoration, EstateConsulting, Adele - Rethymno PostBox 636, Crete, Tel 6942 595207,email: artemis_casa@yahoo.grHorse Riding Instructor. Lessons,help with problems, stable/horsesitting etc. Tel: 6947 786518Questions?Answers?Problems?Solutions?Communicateon ourFORUMwww.thecic.euWhy not share yourpassion for yourfavourite hobbyor pastime?SUBMIT ANARTICLE TOeditor@thecic.euAnd let others knowhow much fun it isto............!FORGOTTEN YOURPASSWORD‘Click the ‘Lost password’link on the login pageand a new password willbe sent to you’31 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


<strong>CIC</strong> ExcursionsDog Pound Blues•••••••••••••••••••••••••DOG POUND BLUESPresents‘BLUES ON THE LAKE <strong>2012</strong>’Taverna NeraidaLake Kournas, fri 8th June8.30 til’ lateLive Blues, R & B and Rock MusicFabulous 3 course meal, wine and music, only 17 euros per personFor Reservations Contact:Brian Pound (brianpound9@hotmail.com) or tel: 6978818300.Price includes ½ litre of wine per person32 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


<strong>CIC</strong> Organically Excursions Cooked - Boureki•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••© Maria VerivakiThe First Boureki of theSeason (Μπουρέκι)Now that the garden is in fullswing, we are eating mainlywhat we grow, which is highlycost-effective for us: the risingcost of living is burning holesin our pocket. I dare not usethe car these days for fear ofemptying the gas tank. At thesupermarket the other day, aDanish tourist was horrified torealise that what she wantedto buy would cost her morethan 20 euro (2 bottles of localwine and some cold cuts wereamong the few things she hadin her basket), which in hercountry, she explained to me,would have cost half the price.“Look what I’m buying,” I told her, “and see what I’m paying for it” - 3 half kilo loaves of bread, 6 breadrolls, 1 kilo of mizithra and a packet of ladies sanitary towels (the Queen has yet again changed brands):16 euro and 26 cents.“Oh my God,” she exclaimed, “that’s exorbitant.”Having a garden is not cost-free, but it is certainly cheaper than buying everything whenever you needit. We can’t eat everything as it grows, so the deep freeze is working overtime as of late.I’ve already posted about courgette-potato bake,which we call boureki in Crete, but you simply can’tpost enough about it. I made two on Thursday,neither of which we ate: they both went straightinto the deep freeze, in their freshest form possible.Making boureki is simply a question of assembly:it takes about half an hour to prepare it, so youwonder why it needs three hours to cook - and 20minutes to devour it. It’s all to do with chemistry:whether it’s the juices from the potatoes and/orthe courgettes, or the galactic acids of the mizithra,in combination with the other ingredients, I haveno idea, but it’s somewhere in there that makesboureki time consuming to cook.33 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Organically Cooked••••••••••••••••••••••••You need-5-6 large courgettes,cut into thin slices5-6 large potatoes,cut into thin slices750g mizithraa few sprigs of mint,chopped finely3 tomatoes, cut into thin roundsSalt and olive oilLayer half the courgette slices on the bottom of a deep baking pan. Then do the same with half thepotato slices. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the potatoes. Season with salt (we do not add pepperin boureki for inexplicable reasons) and the mint. Now layer the remaining potatoes over the cheeseand press them down so that the dish starts to look like a pie. Now add the final layer of courgettesand liberally pour some oil over the boureki. Top all this with the tomato slices, and you are done.Cook in a moderate oven until the potatoes are done (it will take a long time, as I explained above).During the cooking process, you will need to add water as the potato takes in all liquids.After making my boureki on that hot summer’s day) and putting them into the deep freeze, I felt a deepsense of fulfilment, in that way that Michael Pollan described in Omnivore’s Dilemma, when he hunted andgathered his own food. In the morning, before my boureki making foray, I was accompanying my husbandin the fields of our orange groves, watching him toil away, producing a kilo of sweat, trying to keepuncontrollable weeds at bay.At 3.30pm I went to school to pick up my children. The happiness, peace, satisfaction, contentment and pridethat I had felt in that last hour while I was in my kitchen was shattered once I arrived at school. But that’sanother story, the last episode of which has not been written yet - it takes place on Monday morning in theheadmaster’s office.©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by anymeans without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.www.organicallycooked.com34 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Organically Cooked••••••••••••••••••••••••Courgette Patties -Kolokithokeftedes(Κολοκυθοκεφτέδες)My husband rushed into the kitchen excitedly:“How dja wannit, honey? Long, short, medium,extra large?”“I’m only used to one size, darling,” I replied, “andI’m quite content with that, thank you.”We picked the first of the crop only last week. But we havean over-abundance of courgettes in the fridge, mainlybecause my uncles’ farm is over-producing. In fact, everyday, they gather about 10 courgettes about as long as my(please forgive me) arm, and leave them in a crate under ashady hundred-year-old olive tree. When I visit them, theyalways ask me if I want to pick some courgettes from thegarden.“We’ve got courgettes for horta, and you’ll find a few to make boureki, too.” What they mean is that they are theonly two ways that they themselves eat courgettes (they’re bachelors and cook only traditional Cretan cuisine).The courgettes for horta are picked before they start getting too big, say about as large as a (please forgive me)carrot, while the ones for boureki are as long as my (you’ve already forgiven me) arm. Size and length are stilltaboo subjects for some age-groups and classes in Greece.“What’s wrong with the ones in the crate?” I asked them the last time I visited the farm.“Oh, I was gonna chop ‘em up and give ‘em to the chickens,” one of them told me. They do that with their excessproduce, along with the potato peelings and all their vegetable scraps, as well as all the weeds in the garden.Courgette patties - kolokithokeftedes - can be made from all sizes (do forgive me) of courgette; if thecourgettes get too (I’m sorry) large, just remove the seeds if they seem tough. They are not something you canwhip up in a jiffy: courgettes have such a high water content that you need to get rid of it to make firm patties.Some cooks add tomato, others cheese, yet others - eggs; I make mine completely lenten. Cheese and eggs caneasily be added to this recipe; the egg helps bind all the ingredients, while cheese makes them more crusty.Tomato pulp needs to be strained before being added to the mixture.35 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Organically Cooked••••••••••••••••••••••••To make 20 medium-sized patties, you need:1 large courgette (or a few small ones)1 onion, grated finely (I used green onion tops instead;they exude a lighter aroma)1 clove of garlic, finely chopped (optional; I like thecombination of onion and garlic in my food)a posy’s worth of dill, finely chopped (I used fennel, as it’sgrowing like wildfire here; feel free to substitute dill withyour favorite herb - a good alternative is mint, parsley, ora combination of these)1/2 cup of fine breadcrumbs1/2 cup of floursalt and pepperThe first step in making courgette patties is to get rid of all excess water in the courgettes. Grate thecourgette into a colander and sprinkle salt liberally all over it. Place the colander into another containerand allow it to sweat for about two hours. Fresh courgettes will easily yield a small glass of water. Don’tworry if you haven’t got enough time to allow the courgettes to sweat it out on their own; in any case,you will help it along by picking up fistfuls of gratings and squeezing them of all excess liquid. To help allthe herbs blend in with the courgette, I usually mix all the gratings along with the herbs (i.e. courgettes,onion, garlic, herbs, pepper) and squeeze them dry altogether.Once you have strained the vegetable mixture well (you will end up with half the original bulk), add thebreadcrumbs to the mixture and mix them in well. Then add the flour, mixing in enough to make a stiffdough. You may need a little more or a little less, depending on how well you strained the courgettesi.Shape the mixture into flat patties and dredge them in flour. Drop them into boiling hot oil and let themcook till they turn golden brown in colour, turning them over to cook on the other side. When they aredone, place them on absorbent paper to dry.Courgette patties make a great alternative to meat patties (my I-never-eat-greens son thought he waseating a hamburger when I stuck one of these in a bun) and can be served with a tomato salad, or any beandish. This is one of the few dishes I make that doesn’t freeze well.©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by anymeans without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.www.organicallycooked.com36 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


37<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Spring Photos•••••••••••••••••••••© & by Viv WalkerOmalos is at its best at this time of year with waveafter wave of flowers coming out. One of the firstto arrive is the crocus sieberi, which is endemic tothe White Mountains. There are several ‘fields’ ofthem as you enter the plateau and more growingacross the plateau and at the mouth of theSamaria gorge.This photo (right) shows the beautiful mauve ofthe outside of the flower.I could not resist a second photo showing the fullflower (above): it was a temptation to pick them ...but I resisted!We went up to Omalos to see the snow before it left theplateau. It was cold at 8c and unfortunately the snow hadgone from the plateau itself though not the mountains.As wegot near to the plateau we could see bursts of purple flowersin the rock faces. They are aubretia (somet<strong>imes</strong> called purplerockcress, left) and are one of the most beautiful flowers of themountain zone. For obvious reasons they are often cultivatedas a decorative plant.


Wordweavers•••••••••••••••W O R D W E A V E R SIf you would like to join WORDWEAVERS contact Linda at lintalgr@gmail.com orring her on 28210 62913 or 6946 247837.A bit of Greek history about ...... FoodA bit of Greek History - © Janet MerzaGreece has a culinary tradition stretching back at least 4,000 years and a Greek,Archestratos, wrote what is claimed to be the first cookbook in history in 320BC.The cuisine of the ancient Greeks was very frugal and founded onthe “Mediterranean triad” of wheat, olive oil and wine. Meat wasa rare luxury and many Greeks never ate it at all – both Plato andAristotle were vegetarians. Some of the foods enjoyed by thesefamous philosophers are still familiar today, such as lentil soup,fasolada (left), pasteli (bars of honey and sesame seeds) and, ofcourse, retsina.This famous Greek wine was an accidental side effect of the practiceof sealing wine amphorae with Aleppo Pine resin in order tokeep the air out and so prevent the wine from spoiling. When theRomans started using barrels the resin was no longer necessarybut the flavour was so popular that it continued to be added to thefermenting liquid.Ancient Greeks would ‘break their fast’ just after sunrise with some bread dipped in wine. Lunch would be the same,but might include some olives, figs, cheese or dried fish. The main meal would be eaten near sunset and would includevegetables, fruit and fish, possibly followed by honey cakes. A lot of these dishes were ‘finger food’ for the very goodreason that ordinary people had no eating utensils and ate with their hands, using bread to scoop out soups.Fish was the main source of animal protein for allGreeks, cooked fresh in the coastal villages anddried or salted for everyone else. Wine was themost common drink but it was always watereddown. Only barbarians drank it neat, and anotherthing that only barbarians did apparently, wasdrink milk. As far as most Greeks were concerned,the only point of milk was to make cheese. (Greeksare still the top consumers of cheese in the worldand particularly love feta, which the EU has ruledcan only come from Greece).Food has always had religious and philosophicalmeanings for Greeks. For example, ancient Greekswould only eat meat if it had been sacrificed to agod or had been hunted in the wild. They thoughtit was wrong to kill and eat a tame, domesticated animal without also sacrificing to a god. The gods also preferredsome vegetables to others, with some considered dirtier and therefore less appropriate to eat than others.Men often gathered for dinner parties called ‘symposium’, which women were not permitted to attend, unless theywere courtesans. ‘Symposium’ literally translates as ‘drinking with company’ and the evening was divided into twodistinct sections. The first part of a symposium was dedicated to food (although wine was served with the dishes) andthe second part was just for drinking (although snacks were served).39 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


40 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Wordweavers•••••••••••••••According to one authority “Greeks don’t like being alone anddon’t think that anyone or even any thing should ever be alone.For example, a drink must always be accompanied with food andfood must always be enjoyed with friends”.The Greek word ‘xenos’ means both stranger and guest andhospitality is fundamental to the Greek way of life. Visitors arealways offered refreshments, with the oldest guest being servedfirst. Traditionally, women serve the food and drink whilst the malehost talks with the guests. Oftenisitors would be offered ‘glyko’– a thick jam made with fruit, or vegetables such as tomato oraubergine. Naturally it would be served with a drink, usually coffeeand a glass of cold water.Over the centuries, the Greek diet has been influenced by traditionsfrom both east and west. Very early on, Persians introduced suchmiddle-eastern foods as rice, yoghurt and sweets made from nuts,honey and sesame seeds. The Romans brought foods common inItaly such as pasta, dried sausage (loukaniko, left) and sauces. TheByzantine Empire introduced feta, cured fish roe (avgotaraho) and hard bread or rusks, known as paximadi. Manydishes that we think of as traditionally Greek actually come from the Ottoman Empire, such as moussaka, tzatziki,boureki, keftedes and, of course, coffee.Traditional Greek food is not particularly spicy or heavily seasoned. Native herbs include thyme, basil, oregano,rosemary and sage, but in the south of the country and in the southerly islands, Arab influences added cumin,cinnamon, allspice and cloves to the cuisine.As a result of all these influences, Greek cuisine shares a lot of characteristics with those of Italy, the Balkans, Turkeyand the Levant. It concentrates on using fresh ingredients with little refinement and the grain, grapes and olives thatform the central core of the diet are supplemented by eggs, yoghurt, cheese, some meats, rice, fruit and vegetables.Key vegetables include the tomato, aubergine, potato, green beans, okra, peppers and onions. The climate andterrain of Greece favours goats and sheep rather than cattle, so dishes using beef were uncommon until recently.These days it is often used to replace the rarer and more expensive rabbit in stifado.Greek cuisine is still quite localised, with each village having its own version of a particular dish, but some dishes areeven more specific than that. Vegetarian boureki made with potatoes, courgette, mizithra and mint was originallyonly eaten in Western Crete and is still unknown in much of the country.All the major ceremonies in Greece involve food, whether they are family affairs or national religious festivals. Someexamples include the koliva (boiled wheat, sugar and cinnamon) given to mourners at a funeral, the traditionalEaster bread of tsoureki (right), or the tahini soup traditionally eatenon Holy Friday.Greek cuisine may not be considered one of the great ones, with thesort of respect given to the French, for example, but they have madetheir own contribution to the very best kitchens. The white chef’shat came originally from Greek Orthodox monasteries, where it wasworn to distinguish the chefs from the rest of the (black-hatted)monks.Janet Merza has just had her book ‘A Biography of EnglishGardens and Their Flowers’ published as an ebook. Formore information, please visit her website atwww.squirrelstore.co.uk.A bit of Greek History - ©Janet Merza© Janet Merza


41<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Wordweavers•••••••••••••••A Memorable Meal - © ISTROA Memorable MealThe sweet aromatic smell of succulent seafood rose from the modest dish set before us. Wecould not believe our eyes or indeed our noses. Here, in a small coastal taverna , on a smallGreek island , was a sublime looking meal.I was dining with my daughter and son-in-law, who were holidaying with me for several weeksin August of 2011. Severalyears ago my partner andmyself had moved to Greece,finding our own piece ofparadise in which to retire.We had settled in a small ruralvillage, close to the coast, andinhabited with the friendliestpeople you could imagine.We had become friends withMaria and Nikos, the ownersof the local taverna, whichis situated some 50 metresfrom a small delightful bay.The taverna, small and totallyunpretentious, caters for localsand their extended familiesduring the summertime,combined with tourists, mainlyfrom England, Germany andHolland. It’s very remoteness is the attraction, together with the warm welcome and freshGreek food. Here you will find no Greek music playing, no linen tablecloths or fancy wineglasses, just the sound of the waves and the chatter of people enjoying good simple food, mostof it local, together with the local wine.The dining area is outside, as are all such places in Greece in August, when hot sultry days andnights send people scurrying to the coast or mountains for relief. It was ten o’clock at night,a warm gentle breeze surrounded the plain wooden tables and chairs. The outdoor lightingconsisted of a few naked light bulbs suspended among the green mulberry trees, the leaves andtrained branches of which formed the roof, and gave much needed shade during the day. Mydaughter and son-in-law were returning home to Ireland the following day and we had beeninvited by Maria and Nikos, for a “meal on the house”.On arrival we had been asked if we wanted starters. Of course we said yes. A bad mistake.Feeling quite full after our generous first course and supping on the local white wine we eagerlyawaited our main course. We did not know what to expect, we had been asked if we likedseafood, to which we all replied an emphatic yes, but that was all we knew. Maria brought a largedish to our table, which a first glance seemed to contain nothing but spaghetti.


42<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>Wordweavers•••••••••••••••A Memorable Meal - © ISTROWe looked at each other, somewhatdisappointed, where was the calamari,the octopus, the myriad of fish dishesso often served at the taverna. It wasthen we saw the fresh succulent chunksof lobster, nestling amongst the strandsof spaghetti, which seemed almostreluctant to reveal them. The smell wasamazing, warm, sweet and so redolentof the sea we felt the lobster surely musthave simply jumped out of the wavesand straight on to our plates. There waslittle suggestion of a sauce, but the aromaemanating from the strands of spaghetti suggested that they had absorbed all the flavoursand liquids which had been used in the cooking. On tasting it was sublime, the spaghetti notquite al dente, just soft enough to complement the generous chunks of lobster. We speculatedon the ingredients, on how it was cooked. All three of us could be described as “foodies”. Mariacame over to our table to enquire if we were pleased with our meal. We complemented her onsuch an amazing meal. It was, in the words of Michael Winner, “truly historic”. Maria told usthat the combination of spaghetti and lobster was a specialty of the region and that she hadtried several recipes over the years and this was the most successful. We had never tasted thisdish before as it is usually the most expensive on any menu and has to be pre-ordered. She hadcooked fresh lobster in local white wine and a few herbs until tender, removed the lobster andthen cooked the spaghetti in the remaining lobster stock, replacing the lobster at the end of thecooking process. She was justly proud of the result.Had we been presented with this meal in a Michelin starred restaurant we would have said, yes,this is the standard of cooking we would expect from such prestigious establishments, buthaving such a meal in a small local Greek taverna was so unexpected yet so fabulous. It waswithout doubt our best meal of 2011. It will, like all truly stupendous meals, never be forgotten.My family will be returning shortly to our Greek island to stay with us, and you can guess whatwe will have for our first meal of <strong>2012</strong>. Good appetite, as the Greeks say, for the year to come.Copyright ©ISTROIf thats whetted your taste buds, check out this recipe and have a go at making asimilar dish yourself at home.http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/spaghettiwithlobster_90289


Wordweavers•••••••••••••••Early Days / Chapter 5- © Ray BerryEarly Daysin Crete - Chapter FiveOnce on the Messara Plain I took a bus to Agia Deka (Ten Saints, below). The Messarais Crete’s biggest area of farmland. Here they grow everything that Crete needs. It is alarge plain that is busy with people farming andworking in the fields. Each field is a beautifulthing. Carefully farmed and tended by peoplewho feel a part of growing and nourishing crops.Some have tractors and large fields, others havea bullock that pulls the plough, but every bit ofland possible is tended.Each village we passed through has a richness of peopleand trucks. Many shops that sold hardware and all thatwas needed by people of the area. These were not poorpeople here. They were rich not only with money butwith confidence and it was good to see such a thing. Tourism will come, even I could see that, but Idoubted that it would mean that much to the Messarians.Agia Deka is quite a large town, again with people coming and going and getting on with theirbusiness and their lives. It is interesting to note that such a way of life has carried on here for morethan four thousand years. But I wanted to see Gortys. It was a few miles on past Agia Deka andalthough mentioned briefly in guide books, it has never been a serious tourist attraction. Gortys orGortin was a Roman city. In fact it was a huge city back around the time of Christ. Set in the heart ofthe Messara it commanded vast areas not only of Crete but of the eastern Mediterranean. Today Cretehas the unique Minoan culture and sites exist all over the island that tell this story. The main site isof course Knossos just outside Iraklion which was discovered, developed – and some say destroyedby Sir Arthur Evans (right) who reconstructed his ideal ofa Minoan palace. Who can say what Knossos really was– palace or place of death. Was it inhabited by Minoanswho lived real daily lives or was it something else?Whatever, but the Minoans, the Greeks, the Venetiansand on are the chronicled history of Crete. But I love theRoman sites, and although Gortys is barely uncovered,it mattered to me.I took a second bus that dropped me off at Gortys. Ihave to say I couldn’t see very much. The famous part,the wall of words which described in Greek the Doriclaw to the locals was truly superb. It amazed me thatthey even had rules about the family, and about divorceand second wives. This is advanced stuff in terms of theRomans, etc., but perhaps it shows also the confidencethat has always existed on the Messara plain.43 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


Wordweavers•••••••••••••••Early Days / Chapter 5 - © Ray BerryThere was a small amphitheatre andsome other things uncovered includinga fine church which still burns a candletoday. But it was outside this area thatI most enjoyed. I crossed over the roadand just walked the fields that I foundthere. There were olive trees with Romancolumn pieces bound up in their trunks.Everywhere I tripped over statues andcolumns, and it went on for miles around.I hope that in the future the ArcheologicalSociety of Greece opens up Gortys (left).It deserves to be excavated thoroughly.We have tiny buildings discovered in theUK and there is frantic excavation of them, but here in Gortys nothing was happening. It is a massiveand important city, it deserves much better in the years to come.Back on the bus and off to Festos. I had hoped to reach Matala that evening but it was beginningto be impossible. I arrived at Festos at about five o’clock and had a really good look at the site.It is pretty big in terms of Minoan sites and is not reconstructed like Knossos. You can see whereeverything is and, built on a hillside, the view it commands. There is a lot to see there but soon it wasgetting dark and I left to find somewhere to sleep. Actually there was very little around Festos in theway of room providers, so I climbed down the hill and sat at the bottom just thinking about the lastfew days of my life.Crete may be Greece’s biggest island, but in terms of the world, it is very small. This evening I wason the Messara plain and just a day or two ago I was in Viannos. A few days before that in Myrtos.Each place was so different to the other. The sleepy beautiful seaside of Myrtos with no realmemories of terrible warfare. The high village of Viannos with its horrendous immediate past. TheMessara plain with its Roman and Minoan remains. Huge lost cities and civilisations engulfed indaily agriculture.I had a fine piece of chicken from Yanni and somesausage left from Myrtos. I had some bread fromthe bakery in Agia Deka and a fine salad withcheese and olive oil. This made a great meal forme this evening as the sun went down around aman who had indeed filled his head and his heartwith Crete.Tomorrow I would go to Matala (right), why? Iwasn’t sure, but I had heard that it was a fantasticbeach where the world’s hippies came to livein caves and have their bodies bathed in sun. Iwould soon see for myself.Ray Berryhttp://crete.wordpress.com/44 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


........... and FINALLY!•••••••••••••••••••••••••NorwegianBuffet Lunchat Rainbow Café, AlmyridaCelebrate Norwegian National Daywith a typical Norwegian buffet.Olympic TorchRelay In Crete11th <strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>The Olympic Torch will travel by ferryto Crete and will take a route throughKissamos, Chania, Rethymno, Knossos,Agios Nikolaos, Malia, Hersonissos andHeraklionThursday 17th <strong>May</strong>, 11.00- 3.00pmMenu includes smoked salmon &scrambled eggs and othertraditional Norwegian dishes.€10.00 per personLimited space so please book earlywith Michele.Tel: 6946 312763Norwegian Constitution Day is the NationalDay of Norway and is an official nationalholiday observed on <strong>May</strong> 17 each year. AmongNorwegians, the day is referred to simply assyttende mai or syttande mai (both meaning <strong>May</strong>Seventeenth), Nasjonaldagen (The National Day)or Grunnlovsdagen (The Constitution Day).(From Wikipedia)Further details from -http://www.rethymnoguide.gr/nea/kriti/9878-stinkriti-h-olimpiaki-flogoa-stis-11-maiouBattle of CreteMemorial Service.The main service to mark The Battle ofCrete will be held at theAllied War Cemeteryin Souda Bay.Saturday 26th <strong>May</strong> at 18.00hrsThe service will mark the 71stanniversary of the Battle of Crete.Last year saw a record attendance, andeveryone is welcome to attend.45<strong>May</strong> <strong>2012</strong>

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