Part one of Passport's guide to Moscow's favorite - Passport magazine

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Real Estate ‘Your Moscow’: an essential guide to favourite residential areas Guides of Moscow are packed full of information, however not many of them will give you the low-down you actually need to decide on where to live. Will it feel right? Is it affordable? Is it handy for shops, schools, culture? Is it a good place for a young family? This month, Passport launches a major series covering eight of the best residential areas, close to the center of Moscow, starting with the oldest and bestknown neighborhood, NW of the city. This first guide has been compiled by Ross Hunter, regu- 0 July 2009 lar Passport contributor, English International School Headmaster, and explorer of Moscow by bicycle and metro. He has sampled local opinion already, but Passport now asks all our readers to send in their opinions and information about their areas, at any time, to him at: rossdhunter@hotmail.com Next month, our roving eye focuses on Taganska and the South East. After that, not yet in order, we will be in Prospect Mira (N), Chisty Prudy (NE), Kitay Gorod (E), Zamoskvorechye (S), Park Kultury (SW) and the Arbat (W). We look forward to hearing from you.
Your Moscow (1) North by North West: Patriarshiye Ponds & neighborhoods text and photos by Ross Hunter The arc from Petrovka westwards to Barrikadnaya includes many of Moscow’s most famous sights – and best loved inner city residential areas. On the metro map, this is within the Brown ring line, and between the Green and Violet lines. North By Northwest: in the epic Hitchcock film, Cary Grant runs frantically across an endless landscape pursued by a very hostile biplane. This corner of Moscow is wonderfully visualized in The Master and Margarita, as our heroine warms up her newly acquired witchcraft skills by test riding her broomstick around the suburb. Let us take a gentler tour, without shaking up the neighborhood or burning down any buildings. This is generally agreed to be the most ‘des res’ district of inner Moscow, and has been for at least a century. This was reinforced in Soviet times, attracting the well connected, ambassadors and then, elite boutique shops. This is an oasis of safe and cultured calm, bounded by a quartet of busy roads. These should ensure excellent accessibility, and the competing centers of central Moscow/Tverskaya; the growing Belorussky area and the Moskva-City/World Trade Center district are all handy. Aiming NE-SW, if the Garden Ring has long lost its green under a ghastly screech of car on tarmac, then the inner Boulevard Ring can still be an absolute delight for a stroll or more vigorous exercises, with children, pets, bikes or running shoes. Going N or NW, Nikitskaya and Tverskaya radiate themselves and are radiant with retailing. A brisk ten minutes’ walk brings any number of shops, offices, theaters and more within range. Of course, it is the ponds that draw everybody here. Ponds? One magnificent square sheet of inviting water does not merit a plural. There used to be at least three, as the name Tryokhprudny Pereulok suggests (see pg. 40). As ever with Moscow, the battle between land and water has ebbed and flowed, and the former goat marshes were rationalized into distinct ponds in the 17th century, and two of these drained in the early 19th century. In winter or summer, this crosspath abounds with life. It has the beauty, freshness and vitality of a London square. Possibly even too much vitality. While peace and calm are what attract families, the reality is slightly more kaleidoscopic. While one corner is an adventure playground for small children and their chatting mums, they are not alone. A steady stream of folk wander, jog and cycle by, and a varied collection of young and not so young are there for a chat, a romance, and a spot of music. The ears can get confused between pop, rock, blues, amateur guitar and raucous goth beats, and getting the dress code right is equally confusing. Is the pond the preserve of families, romantics, tourists or the thirsty? All, of course – as the old saying goes, this place would be more popular if it wasn’t so crowded. July 2009 Real Estate 1
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Part one of Passport's guide to Moscow's favorite - Passport magazine

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