Discoveries inOntarioFlowerpot Island, showing flowerpot-shaped rock pillarsstory and photos by Michael & Lynda SnelsonSo often when we use the word "travel" our thoughtsturn to lush countryside, or perhaps to the craggy rockoutcroppings of the Dolomites, or we dream of a boatride to a magical isle, all with some interesting museums andrestaurants thrown in. Last summer, Lynda and I incorporatedall of the above in a two-day car trip, travelling thebackroads of Ontario and discovering the NiagaraEscarpment, the Bruce Peninsula, Manitoulin Island andSudbury.<strong>The</strong> Niagara Escarpment, a world Biosphere Reserve,begins at Niagara Falls and stretches over 750 km norththrough the Bruce Peninsula, before plunging sharply intothe cold, clear waters of Georgian Bay and re-emerging onManitoulin Island. Our plan was to travel north from theToronto region to Owen Sound on our first day (no, the vineyardsof the Niagara region were not on our agenda on thistrip), driving through the beautiful farmlands of Ontario,over hills and through lush valleys, but always keeping that'low wall' on the western horizon in sight. <strong>The</strong> wall is theNiagara Escarpment, a ridge of hard dolomite rock, at timesover 100 meters high, sometimes craggy, and home to 1000year old cedars, black bears, rattlesnakes, ferns and orchids.National Historic site: Billy Bishop home & museum14 www.thetravelsociety.com
Inglis Falls, Niagara Escarpment, Owen SoundOur meanderings took us through the small Ontario towns ofOrangeville, Shelburne, Flesherton, Markdale, Chatsworth,and others, arriving in Owen Sound in about six leisurelyhours. Scottish and Mennonite settlers would be surprisedto learn today that many of the industrial mills that groundtheir grain and knitted their clothes have been converted tocountry inns but they were not on our itinerary. Instead,roadside tables along the way provided us with a fine picniclunch.Owen Sound, we were to discover, was a real find.Situated on the south shores of Georgian Bay in a valleybelow the sheer rocky cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment, thecity of 25,000 is a haven for artists and artisans, and is richin history. It has a beautiful harbour, two winding rivers,tree-lined streets and tree-covered hillsides and ravines.One of the city's most famous sons was World War I flyingace and Victoria Cross recipient, William Avery "Billy"Bishop, Canada's leading pilot in the war and veteran ofVimy Ridge. His boyhood home is now a museum dedicatedto his life and to Canadian aviation history. Anotherfamous son was artist Tom Thomson. <strong>The</strong> town libraryhouses the Tom Thomson art gallery and museum with asmall gift shop where you can purchase prints of his worksas well as those from his friends and followers who becameknown as the Group of Seven. Just south of the city properis the Inglis Falls Conservation Area. Inglis Falls, one ofthree waterfalls that surround Owen Sound, is an 18 metrehigh cascade created when the Sydenham River meets theedge of the Escarpment. <strong>The</strong> erosive power of the water hascarved a deep gorge at the base of the falls. <strong>The</strong>re is anexcellent Interpretive Centre here with a short film thatfocuses on the formation of the Niagara Escarpment. <strong>The</strong>reis also a viewing platform to better see the falls, over 7 kmof trails of varying degrees of difficulty, and the remains ofan old grist mill built by an enterprising young Scotsman in1862.<strong>The</strong> Best Western Inn on the Bay, at Bishops Landing wasour overnight home. <strong>The</strong> small hotel offers great views ofGeorgian Bay, an outdoor patio, and breakfast is included.That evening, we enjoyed a candlelight dinner atNathaniel's, a small friendly restaurant on 8 th street.<strong>The</strong> following morning we were up early to drive toTobermory as we had a reservation for the ferry toManitoulin Island. <strong>The</strong> drive took us through the BrucePeninsula, home to some fifty artists' studios and galleries,seven waterfalls, twelve lighthouses and the town ofWiarton, home of " Wiarton Willy", Canada's weather-forecastinggroundhog. <strong>The</strong> route also passes through the BrucePeninsula Provincial Park.At the northern tip of the Bruce Peninsula lies the town ofTobermory, population 1,200. With its frame houses and itstwo harbours - Big Tub and Little Tub - the atmosphere isone of a quiet lakeside village. It is home to the Fathom FiveNational Marine Park, Canada's first national marine park.<strong>The</strong> deep crystal-clear waters makes the park an underwaterexplorer's paradise. It consists of a myriad of islands andshoals containing spectacular underwater cliffs, and is thegraveyard of 22 sunken ships: sailing vessels, tug boats andeven freighters. <strong>The</strong> oldest shipwreck is over 150 years old.Glass-bottomed tour boats are available. <strong>The</strong> National ParkVisitor Centre, housed in a large, modern building nestledamong trees, has many informative and interactive exhibits.Located nearby is a 20 m viewing tower, which is the largesttower of its kind in Ontario. Flowerpot Island, accessibleonly by tour boat, has towering cliffs, strange rock formations,dense forests, glens, meadows and flowers, all surroundedby pristine waters. <strong>The</strong> "flowerpots" or seastackswere created by waves pounding at the cracks in the limestone,gradually wearing away the softer lower limestonefrom the harder dolomite top. <strong>The</strong> resulting shape resemblesa giant flowerpot.Fathom Five National Marine Park<strong>The</strong> M.S. Chi-Cheemaun, Ojibway for "<strong>The</strong> Big Canoe",is the largest passenger/car vessel on the Great Lakes. Itcompletes the 50 km route between Tobermory and SouthBaymouth, Manitoulin Island in two hours. It has a capacityof 638 passengers and 143 cars and runs four times dailyfrom <strong>May</strong> to October. We parked our car in position on theferry dock and then explored the shops, craft stores and gal-<strong>May</strong> <strong>2010</strong> 15
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