Vol. 28 No. 4 May 2010 - The Travel Society

Vol. 28, No. 4 May 2010MagazineIn Kent, EnglandGreat Barrier Island, NZNewfoundlandOntariowww.thetravelsociety.com

MagazineEditorAnn Wallaceann@thetravelsociety.comContributorsHeinz JaegerInge JaegerGillian KismanLynda SnelsonMichael SnelsonMaria WuPublisherNigel D Raincocknigel@thetravelsociety.comAdministratorDebbie Philipdebbie@thetravelsociety.comGraphic Design & ProductionPaula M. Torrespaula@thetravelsociety.comThe Travel Society Magazine (ISSN#1717-242X) is an independent, consumer magazinepublished in Canada ten times a year. Althoughextreme care is taken to ensure the accuracy ofmaterial herein, The Travel Society does notassume any liability for errors or omissions, forchanges in fares or schedules, or for readers’decisions based on the opinions of the editor orwriters. Readers are advised to confirm all informationprior to booking.Rates for CANADA (GST included):1 year - $49.002 years - $95.003 years - $140.00USA: 1 year - $80.00 (incl. postage)World: 1 year - $80.00 (incl. postage)Back issues:1 issue - $5.00 3 issues - $10.00Copyright 2010 by The Travel Society Inc.Contents may not be reproduced in whole or partwithout written permission from the publisher.The Travel Society Inc.218 - 1033 Bay Street,Toronto, Ontario, Canada. M5S 3A5Tel: 416 926 0111 Fax: 416 926 0222www.thetravelsociety.comPrinted in Canada. GST Reg # R135785962Publications Mail Agreement:# 40063904 & # 09925Customer # 2289997Mail preference: From time to time, we make our membershiplist available to specific reputable companies andorganizations whose products and/or services we believewill be of interest to you. If you do not want your name tobe made available, please enclose your mailing label andinitial here_____We acknowledge the financial support of theGovernment of Canada, through the PublicationsAssistance Program (PAP) and the CanadianMagazine Fund of the Department of CanadaHeritage toward our mailing and project costs.May 2010 Vol. 28, No. 4contentsReaders’ LettersWWoofing (and chasing the opera) in New ZealandBoating on the River ThamesReader to ReaderDestinationsCanadian Connections in the "Garden of England"The Rugged Great Barrier Island, New ZealandThe Hidden Gems of NewfoundlandDiscovering OntarioA Day Out of LondonNewsTen Vacation IdeasGreat Canadian War Memorial TourAirline NewsSafety in Mexicoeditor’s letter ...Your magazine will be arriving in your mail boxes a fewdays late this month. My apologies … but I am sure allwill be forgiven when I tell you that I have beenstranded in London, England, for a week due to theIceland volcano situation. My daughter and I had gonefor a few days to see my elderly mother and on justour second day learned that all flights had been suspended.The situation dominated the news there, of course, eclipsing even theup-coming British election and the leaders' televised debates. There wasfootage of the volcano itself, dire news of monies lost by airlines and companiesthat rely on freight, and dozens of sad tales of stranded people.We were initially resigned to staying a little longer, but did become ratheralarmed when we heard "this could go on for months". There was a briefmention of "not going out of doors", but it was obvious Londoners weren'ttaking heed of this advice and it was soon dropped. The skies were brilliantblue … and oh so quiet.We went to Canada House in the hope that there would be an encouragingmessage from our Prime Minister. We also hoped we'd hear that theNavy were coming for us! But no! We were merely invited to fill out a littleform with our contact details and swapped stories with fellowCanadians. There was a supply of free water. We left and went to a pubfor a big drink.On the Air Canada website it was 'business as usual' and nobody couldbe reached by telephone. However, we reached Aeroplan (with whom we'dbooked our flights) by phone and they were very helpful. In the hope thatthe situation would soon change they gave us a new booking - six daysafter our planned return - and told us to check back if the no-fly ban wasextended. We were expecting a full flight early on the morning of Sunday25 April and so were surprised to find it only about 25% full. A flightattendant explained that a larger plane had been used to take people toHeathrow, but the return demand had not been so great. We probablycould have returned earlier, but we weren't complaining about a few extradays in London in glorious springtime weather.I expect some of you were also impacted by the volcano situation. I dohope you fared as well as could be expected and are now homesafe and sound.I hope you enjoy this issue and have a happy May!3445911141719192020Chartwell(Wallace)2 www.thetravelsociety.com

eaders’lettersWWoofing(and chasing the opera)in New ZealandWWoof stands for "Willing Workerson Organic Farms". This is part of aworld-wide community that promotesawareness of ecological farming practicesby providing volunteers, knownas wwoofers, with the opportunity toget to know the local people, enjoy ahands-on learning experience andenjoy a safe way to explore the country.Hosts enjoy sharing their lifestylewith volunteers by opening up theirhomes and they appreciate having ahelping hand with projects which areoften labour intensive. Oftenwwoofers are called upon to help withhousehold chores.It is necessary to join the organizationas a member by paying a smallsubscription which can be doneonline. Once you are a member, youcan set up your profile online andsearch the hosts on the website. Indue course, you will receive a bookletlisting all the hosts by regions andyour membership number.I was already familiar with theorganization and last year, after I hadbooked my tickets to New Zealand, Icontacted Rosemary Soryl inChristchurch. I had spent two weekswith Rosemary as a wwoofer on mylast trip to NZ in 2003. She immediatelyaccepted to host me for anothertwo weeks as soon as I arrived inOctober last year. Then, on browsingthrough the website, I found anotherRosemary, plus Gary, in Napier askingfor a wwoofer who can cook. Icontacted them hoping for a weekbeginning 21 December so I couldspend Christmas with a family.Rosemary responded with a warmand positive e-mail. I made no furtherplans for my three-month visit to NZ.Meeting Rosemary Storyl inChristchurch was like meeting an oldfriend and immediately I felt part ofthe family again. While I was withRosemary, I was welcome to use hercomputer, her home phone, herkitchen and its contents. She took mehiking, on a community working dayon a farm, gave me referrals and tookme to a dinner given by a friend. Inreturn, I worked on average no morethan four hours per day with a coupleof days off each week. During myfree time, I attended concerts, playedbridge, went for a challenging hikewith Rosemary's friends and consolidatedmy itinerary for the remainingtwo and a half months. From there Iarranged wwoofing with nine morehosts in Waimate, Dunedin, Renwick,Havelock, Marlborough Sound, TeHoro, Napier, Gisborne and GreatBarrier Island with only four nights ofstay at YHA hostels necessary. (Foran account of Maria's visit to GreatBarrier Island, see page 9 - Ed.)The work varied. I usually helpedwith the cooking and, if there were nodish washer, with the dishes as well,but not very often. I helped in gardensand with cleaning the house and withanything else the hosts requested. Forexample, I accompanying some childrenone Saturday morning when theywere scheduled to do some voluntarywork in an office. In Te Horo, northof Wellington, I worked on a lavenderfarm where I did strictly field work,pruning the lavender bushes. Thereare animal farms, but I avoided those.In general, the organization has hostswho are interested in organic farming.I always had a room of my own butusually shared the bathroom withmembers of the family. I travelled bybuses and bought a bus pass fromInterbus that covered 60 hours of travelling.Once I reached my destination,the host or hostess would pickme up at the bus station.The experiences were varied andinteresting, some better than othersbut with no disasters! It was definitelyan excellent way of meeting localpeople and sharing their lifestyles. Ifound New Zealanders warm andamazingly trustful. I felt at home withmost families within an hour after Iarrived. Many of them went out theirway to make sure I spent my free timedoing something fun in their owntown. It was great that I did not haveto eat in restaurants, which can bevery expensive, lonesome and at timesdisappointing. Some of these hostsbecame friends and we continue toexchange emails. Above all, it was avery inexpensive way of travelling.Excluding my airfares, in threemonths I spent just underUS$1,000.00.The website is www.wwoof.co.nz.Once you've signed up you select yourregion, read the listings, select three orfour hosts, contact them by e-mailintroducing yourself and stating yourinterests and any special skills andthen wait for replies.While travelling in New Zealand Iwas also able to follow my interest inopera. In Toronto, I have been attendingthe live transmissions of theMetropolitan Opera from New Yorksince their inception. When I arrivedin Christchurch late in October I wasthrilled to discover that Tosca was tobe shown at a small theatre on 8November. I was even more delightedwhen I was able to introduce theseries to a local opera lover whom Imet at a Bridge Club. Subsequently,Reader to ReaderI am a retired female geographyteacher looking for afemale travel companion forindependent, off-the-beatenpath explorations as well as thepossibility of joining organisedtrips. I love to wander/explore(not hike) and find hiddengems in a variety of destinations.If you're a TTS memberand would like to join me and"give it a try" please get intouch with Editor Ann atann@thetravelsociety.comand she will pass your messageon to me.Thank youApril 2010 3

eaders’lettersshe invited me to attend her friend'sHalloween party and invited me toher home for afternoon tea before theopera.Then, on checking the programmecalendar, I found three more operaswere to be shown before my departurein mid January. I was richlyrewarded. Aida turned out to be abirthday present from my hosts atClair Farm, outside Blenheim. Toattend Turandot in North Havelock Icycled for 8 km to catch the bus inNapier, arriving at my destinationwith enough time to enjoy a hike on atrail built by local volunteers to stoperosion of a river. At that cinema Imet a lady who not only gave me aride back to Napier but also gave mea tour of that town's best Art Decobuildings. Les Contes d'Hoffman wasin North Auckland. To reach the cinemaI took a bus, which I was surprisedto discover was free for seniors.And the cinema itself was nextto Hall Beach, where I took a refreshingswim before the performance andenjoyed a delicious snack in the cafénext door during intermission. Myquest for opera had led me to places Imight otherwise have missed.Maria Wu,Toronto, ONBoating on theRiver ThamesI'd like to share this information withother members. On a recent flight, Isat beside a couple - Sue and RoyFarman - who are the owners andoperators of a Dutch barge that pliesEngland's River Thames. The vessel,called The Bag Lady, is Sue andRoy's home, but they also love toshare it with others. During our conversationthey exuded a great deal ofenthusiasm for their lifestyle, andtheir ope-ration sounds fascinating.They offer day-trips or longerexcursions along 125 miles of theRiver Thames, from London'sThames Barrier to Oxford. There isjust one en suite guest cabin (withReader to ReaderCan any one help with a recommendationfor a home stay propertyor a B&B in Barbados or onanother island? Thanks for anysuggestions.Gillian Kismanegkisman@rogers.comThe River Thames at Westminsterking bed) so the trips that involveovernight stays are just for one couple.The day trips, which include lunch,can be for four. You can select the sectionof the river you wish to exploreand you can do as much or as little asyou like. You can help operate thebarge, you can disembark and explorevillages, castles and stately homes, oryou can merely sit on deck and enjoythe passing scene.In our conversation, Sue and Roywere passionate about the river and thewildlife in particular. They havereceived good press reviews and havealready welcomed some Canadians.You can check it out at www.hotelboatbaglady.co.ukGillian KismanToronto, ONwebsitewww.thetravelsociety.comOur website is fully operational. We always want to improveit and welcome your input.You can renew your subscription on-line too!4www.thetravelsociety.com

Chartwell HouseCanadian Connections inthe "Garden of England"story and photos by Ann WallaceIts outstanding natural beauty, relatively mild climateand a proliferation of gardens, orchards and vineyardsare all factors that have contributed to England'sCounty of Kent bearing the lovely moniker "The Gardenof England."If you have seen the movie The Gathering Stormabout Sir Winston Churchill just prior to and duringWWII, you may remember the scene where he stands atthe window of his country home near Westerham and,looking out at the view over the Weald of Kent, remindshis wife Clementine that "this is what we are fightingfor". That country house was Chartwell, an imposing butrather plain house actually, but one so full of interest andin such a gorgeous setting that a trip there is well worthwhile.Today the house, Churchill's painting studio andthe beautiful gardens and extensive grounds are all opento the public as part of Britain's National Trust.Canadians fought so bravely in WWII that we,together with our allies, can all claim a strong connectionwith Churchill. But if you go to Chartwell, you will finda more personal connection. Painting was one ofChurchill's favourite pastimes throughout his life, and theseparate studio building at Chartwell is shown exactly asit was in his time, with paints, easels, a rather uncomfort-May 20105

Quebec Houseable-looking chair, even his coveralls. And on the walls,covering every surface, are his canvases: paintings ofscenes in England, Europe and North Africa. And inCanada too! Yes, there are several canvases thatChurchill painted of Canadian scenes on his visits here.They are easily recognizable, but the guide seemed veryproud to point them out to me.Another interesting piece of information I learned atChartwell was the fact that Churchill loved birds. Hespent a great deal of his time altering the open parklandssurrounding the house, where he enlarged what wasknown as the 'lower lake' and created a wooded island inthe lake with water birds in mind, and also created a newlake to the north, fed by the Chart Well that gave thehouse its name. These waters were home to severalspecies of water birds that Churchill would not only feedbut also name. So when we berate Canadian geese in thefuture, we should remember that Churchill had two,which he named Lord and Lady Beaverbrook! But perhaps,in fact, he had two 'lords' or two 'ladies' … for otherwisesurely his flock might have increased to becomethe nuisance that we know only too well. Anyway, on myvisit there was no sign of any Canada geese, but therewere many lovely species still enjoying Churchill's lakes.It is said that Chartwell was bought by Sir WinstonChurchill (in 1924) for its magnificent views. In theguide book to the site his daughter - Mary Soames - confirmsthat the view "enraptured him". He and his familycertainly loved the place and it remained his private homeuntil the end of his life in 1965. The rooms remain muchas they were when he lived there, with furniture,pictures, books and personal mementoesevoking the career and wide-ranginginterests of this great statesman. As well assome of Churchill's own paintings, art-lovingvisitors will be delighted to find anexquisite Monet - one of his Thames views- in the drawing room. And don't miss thepolitical cartoons adorning the staircasewalls. Today there is also an extensivemuseum section. Out of doors, the hillsidegardens reflect Churchill's love of the landscapeand nature. They include the abovementionedlakes and the vast lawns he created,as well as Lady Churchill's rose gardenand the kitchen garden.The only significant period that theChurchills did not inhabit the house was, in fact, duringthe war years. Churchill spent those years in London, atthe Prime Minister's residence or in the undergroundA corner of Westerham village6 www.thetravelsociety.com

TheRugged GreatBarrier Island,New ZealandPah Beach, New Zealandstory and photos by Maria WuOn my fourth visit to New Zealand late last year, Itried to visit places that I had not yet seen. Oneof these was the Great Barrier Island, which is onthe outer edge of Hauraki Gulf, lying approximately 100km from downtown Auckland. The island is a world ofwild natural beauty where Mother Nature is largelyundisturbed. Most of the island is publicly owned. It hasjust over 800 residents and a number of small settlementswith shops and accommodations. There are no supermarkets,no banks, no ATMs and no public electricity,water supply or main drainage. It is wild, untamed and avery special place with its own rules … a definite breathof fresh air.Trypena is the main settlement, 4 km from the ferrywharf at Shoal Bay. I stayed at Pohutuhawa Lodge at PahBeach - the perfect setting for my daily swims. TheLodge was built around an old Kauri villa circa 1700 andthe house has had a long history of trading. Originallyhoney was processed and sold here. It has since gonethrough various stages of trading until the StonewallStore was built next door. Today the main house is thereception area for the Lodge and the Currach Irish Pub,which is the centre for locals and tourists to meet.The day after my arrival was the island's annualMussel Fest, held at Port Fitzroy. The owner of the lodgewas required to transport the musicians who played at theIrish Pub to the festival, so I hitched a ride it the back ofthe van, sitting on the floor. It was a ride of less than 30km, but seemed a long and bumpy journey with nothingto see. But it was worthwhile. At Port Fitzroy, I foundMay 2010 9

The Currach Irish Puba couple of short trails for hiking before joining in withthe fun of the festival. Later, on the return trip, I was ableto sit up front in the van and was amazed at the breathtakingscenery we had passed through earlier.The 'Great Outdoors' is what the Barrier Island doesbest. I was informed it was safe and easy to hitchhike sothat it was I did, devoting my outdoor adventures tohitchhiking to various locations and then hiking. My firsthike was up to the island's highest point at Mt. Hobson,starting from Windy Canyon with its striking volcanicfeatures with jagged outcrops and stupendous views. Thetrail was well-maintained with over 1000 steps, passingthrough dense native forests and a couple of peaks beforeI finally reached the summit with its wonderful panoramicviews of Hauraki Gulf.On another day I planned a visit to WhangaparaparaHarbour that was once a whaling station. From here, Itracked to Kaitoke Hot Springs where I refreshed myweary body with a soak. I met a family from Aucklandon the trail but there was no one sharing the Hot Springswith me. On exiting this trail, there was a 4 km walk tothe main road but soon a car stopped, offering me a ride.It was the family I had met on the track. As the car wasfull, two of their boys were perched in the trunk in orderto make room for me!I spent other days walking along the coast, soaking inthe scenery and swimming. The return ferry trip toAuckland arrived after midnight, but that was no problem.I was offered a ride by one of my fellow passengers,who drove me directly to the Youth Hostel where I spenttwo nights. My visit to the Great Barrier Island was thehighlight of my latest trip to New Zealand. I experiencedthe warmth and generosity of the New Zealanders and thespectacular great outdoors that challenged my fitness toits limit. I hope to return at least one more time before Iam too old.For information on the island visit www.greatbarriernz.com.The website for Pohutukawa Lodge, Tryphenais www.currachirishpub.com. Details of the ferries tothe island provided by Sealink Travel Group can beresearched at www.sealink.co.nz or to fly visit www.flymysky.co.nz.Enjoy!Pohutuhawa Lodge, Pah Beach10 www.thetravelsociety.com

‘Prime Berth’ onthe causeway toTwillingate Island ...all the figures aredummies!The Hidden Gems of Newfoundlandstory by Heinz Jaeger and photos by Inge JargerPlease don’t limit your stay in Newfoundland to visitingonly the most popular and well-known places.That will certainly deprive you of many opportunitiesto experience the real spirit of the island and to meet thelocal people, who will win your heart with their honesty andtrust in the goodness of others.My wife and I had previously led three adventure tripsto the "Rock", one along the east coast and two to the west,exploring Gros Morne, a bit of Labrador and the VikingTrail. Every time we discovered places we did not evenknow existed, and bit-by-bit we learned a lot about theunique landscape and history of this island. On this, ourmost recent trip, in early July of 2009 with 41 members ofthe Halton Outdoor Club, we first visited some of ourfavourite places along the east coast and then explored moreof the north-central part of the island.We arrived in St. John's at noon, and after a heartylunch at Kelly's pub on famous George Street, our bus tookus to Signal Hill, the prime destination of this city. Weenjoyed the views over the harbour entrance and visited thesmall museum in the tower and then most of us walked backto the hotel on the beautiful North Side trail, with its evenmore spectacular views of Fort Amhearst and the narrowpassage into the harbour.On a boat tour the next day we were treated to see aHumpback Whale and her calf swimming beside the boat,and later, on the cliffs, we saw large number of Puffinsguarding their nests in underground tunnels from the everscavenging gulls. The afternoon we spent on Cape Spear,which is the eastern most point of the American continent,where we hiked for a couple of hours along the shore.Cape St. Mary was on our itinerary for the next day.This Ecological Reserve is located on the south-western tipof the Avalon Peninsula on a barren and windswept plain.Just in front of the vertical, 300 feet high cliffs on an equallyhigh sea stack rising out of the ocean, some 150,000 birds,Humpback whale with her calfMay 2010 11

Puffinsmostly Murres and Gannets, make their nests. To see thatmany birds sitting closely packed, side by side, is an unforgettableexperience. The lunch on the nearby, aptly namedGannets Nest Restaurant is excellent, but reservations (tel:709 337 2175) are recommended since this is the onlyrestaurant for miles around.Driving further north we visited the winery atWhitbourne, which makes some really good wines from thelocal wild berries.Our destination for the next few days was Clarenville,where we found comfortable lodging and good food at theHotel St. Jude, named after the patron saint of 'hopelesscases'; certainly a peculiar name for a hotel. The property isabout 25 minutes' drive from the Terra Nova ParkHeadquarters.Anyone travelling the Trans Canada Highway (theTCH) through the Terra Nova National Park should not missvisiting the Park Headquarters with its instructive displaysand videos; there is an opportunity to take a power-boat ridethrough the many fjords and islands along this section of thecoast, but we chose to hike along the coast on the beautifulNewman Sound trail.Another interesting side trip from Clarenville, particularlyfor history buffs, is a visit to Trinity on the BonavistaPeninsula. During the summer, the local history is stagedhere in several restored buildings in the village.In nearby Port Union one may visit the former headquartersof Sir John Coaker, the organizer and leader of thefirst fisherman's union. We took the opportunity to take aride on a mussel boat to see first hand how the famous musselsare farmed and harvested. In the afternoon we came toPort Rexton, where the Shipping News used to be published.There we hiked the beautiful, looped 5 km Skerwink Trail,which starts and ends at the village church, an easily notedlandmark. This hike features the picturesque shoreline withseveral sea stacks and fantastic views of the community ofTrinity. It is said that if you take only one hike inNewfoundland, this is the one to take.Along the TCH it takes only about an hour and a half toreach Gander, but this route misses a number of interestingplaces. We took the much longer 'Kittiwake' route, which israrely taken by tour buses because it is a curvy, two-laneroad. Our first stop was at the museum in Gambo, dedicatedto Joe Smallwood, the first Premier of Newfoundland,who, as we all know, was responsible for joiningNewfoundland to Canada. The Barbour Living HeritageVillage in Newtown certainly is worth a stop. This is areconstructed typical outport village, where the explanationsby locals in period costumes gave us a good impression ofthe very hard life of the fishermen families, about 150 yearsago, contrasted with the quite comfortable living of the localmerchant families. The local schoolhouse contains a rare,original wooden wall cabinet, shaped like a bible. Fartheron, the Banting Memorial Interpretation Centre in MusgroveHarbour honours Sir Frederick Banting, the co-discoverer ofInsulin, who perished in a plane crash near the town duringWW II.Gander's huge and modern airport is rarely used thesedays, since planes can now easily fly from Europe to NorthAmerica without refuelling. However, during the aftermathof the 9/11 attack, it served as a very welcome diversion portwhen all U.S. airports were suddenly closed. We found the22 meter wide mural in the main hall of the airport veryinteresting - it symbolically depicts the feelings humansoften experience in association with flying. Also in Ganderare the North Atlantic Aviation Museum and a memorial tothe 256 U.S peacekeepers from the Screaming EagleBattalion, who were killed in an air crash here in 1985 ontheir way home from the Sinai Peninsula.On the road to Twillingate we found several interestingspots to stop. Firstly, at Boyd's Cove there is the BeothukInterpretation Centre, near a clearing where archeologistshave excavated remnants of a permanent camp. The centrehas several dioramas and displays. The 1½ km walk to theclearing was a welcome interruption of the long bus ride.Farther on, at the causeway to Twillingate Island, DavidBoyd, a local fisherman has constructed a museum to the traditionalcod fishery, called 'Prime Berth'. This collectionprovides an interesting insight into the hard life of the fishermenin the past and an opportunity to see the primitive butvery effective tools of their trade in actual use. Mostastounding was a full-scale cod trap which was much largerthan one would imagine. Mr. Boyd then demonstrated howCape St. Mary Ecological Reserve12 www.thetravelsociety.com

the cod used to be killed, gutted, split, salted and dried in aneffective 'assembly line' operation (which was used longbefore Henry Ford). A number of nostalgic poems about thelife along the Newfoundland coast in times past have beenwritten and published by Mr. Boyd.It had rained in the morning, but it was just overcast andcalm when we arrived at the Anchor Inn in Twillingate, ourhome for the next two days. Our plan had been to hike alongthe picturesque coastline during the afternoon, but the localguide was concerned about the safety of the trail and warnedus against it. Instead we went on a boat tour designed in thehope of seeing the recently-beached icebergs, and we certainlyreceived our money's worth. The largest iceberg seenhere in many years had broken into three or four, still verylarge pieces, and our captain was able to manoeuver the boatexpertly between these floating giants. We even tasted theice and confirmed that it was sweet without a hint of salt, inspite of probably having floated in the Atlantic for more thana year.A howling rainstorm greeted us the next morning, so wetook the opportunity to tour Twillingate Island in our busunder the guidance of a local guide, and at the local AukIsland Winery we tasted the berry wine made with icebergwater. Attending a performance of the Twillingate DinnerTheatre concluded the day.The next morning we continued travelling; our firststop was Lewisport, the former headquarters of the Frenchgarrison in Newfoundland. At the museum we were treatedto a 'Mug-Up': a cup of tea and some cake, accompanied bylocal musicians playing folk songs. Nearby we found theold trestle bridge in Bishop Falls, which is now used only forfoot traffic.The huge paper mill in Grand Falls/ Windsor was shutdown in 2008, but the Salmonid Interpretation Centre, whichthe Newfoundland government had established along thefish ladder, is still in operation. We learned that in the pastthe high waterfall on the Exploit River had preventedspawning salmon from reaching the upper branches and tributariesof the river, but since the ladder started to operatearound 1930, more and more salmon are spawning above thefalls, and that region has become an important breeding area.We watched salmon passing through the fish counter andwere given excellent information and shown an interestingvideo about this station.In the nearby Botwood Flying Heritage Park we sawsome refurbished flying boats, which before and during WWII were thought to be the best means to cross the Atlantic. Ofcourse technology advanced faster than anybody thoughtpossible, and flying boats became obsolete. We had achance trying our skills in flying (and crashing) one of thesemonsters on a simulator. Our final destination was the 8 kmlong Alexander Murray trail in Springfield. Sturdy stepshave been built along the steep sections of the trail by localvolunteers and we had little trouble reaching the 1000 feethigh summit. The views from the top were spectacular.On the way back to St. John's we stopped briefly for anexcellent lunch at Skipper Ben's B&B. This village wasfounded by Governor John Guy in 1610, and archeologistsare presently uncovering the original plantation site. In thevillage of Brigus we toured the Hawthorne Cottage, originallyowned by the famous arctic explorer Captain BobBartlet, who helped Robert Peary to reach the North Pole.At the edge of the village is the Pierced Rock, a tunnel cutthrough a rocky embankment to allow goods to be unloadedfrom ships and easily transported to warehouses. Finally,just before we had to go to the airport, we made a stop at thevillage of Quidi Vidi, close to St. John's, where a smallbrewery is still operating in an old warehouse, and whereultra-modern condominiums are slowly replacing the surroundingoriginal cottages.We were sad when our adventure ended and we had thesay 'Good bye' to Bruce and Ray, our guide and driver,respectively; without them we would have missed a lot.Many of us hope that we may repeat this visit one day!Iceberg in Pretty HarbourSome details ... Our guide, Bruce, has told me he has now retired from guiding. However, Ray Lehr of Parsons Bus Line of St. John's(tel 709 744 3300) is still active. He has been driving ourhiking group on all our trips and is great. And if anyone isinterested in visiting Newfoundland, I would be pleased tohelp them setting up a plan; my number in Hamilton is905 634 1239. Our hotel in St. John's was the Quality Hotel - Harbourview,tel: 709 754 7788 www.choicehotels.ca/info/cn246 Gannets Nest Restaurant, tel: 709 337 2175. St. Jude Hotel, 800 563 7800, www.stjudehotel.nf.ca The Anchor Inn, 800 450 3950, www.anchorinnmotel.ca(Readers are also reminded that Maxxim Vacations -www.maxximvacations.com - and McCarthy's Party -www.mccarthysparty.com - are two companies that have beenhighly recommended for Newfoundland tours in these pagesover the years. Maxxim can arrange independent, self-drivetrips, while McCarthy's offers comprehensive tours - Ed.)May 201013

Discoveries inOntarioFlowerpot Island, showing flowerpot-shaped rock pillarsstory and photos by Michael & Lynda SnelsonSo often when we use the word "travel" our thoughtsturn to lush countryside, or perhaps to the craggy rockoutcroppings of the Dolomites, or we dream of a boatride to a magical isle, all with some interesting museums andrestaurants thrown in. Last summer, Lynda and I incorporatedall of the above in a two-day car trip, travelling thebackroads of Ontario and discovering the NiagaraEscarpment, the Bruce Peninsula, Manitoulin Island andSudbury.The Niagara Escarpment, a world Biosphere Reserve,begins at Niagara Falls and stretches over 750 km norththrough the Bruce Peninsula, before plunging sharply intothe cold, clear waters of Georgian Bay and re-emerging onManitoulin Island. Our plan was to travel north from theToronto region to Owen Sound on our first day (no, the vineyardsof the Niagara region were not on our agenda on thistrip), driving through the beautiful farmlands of Ontario,over hills and through lush valleys, but always keeping that'low wall' on the western horizon in sight. The wall is theNiagara Escarpment, a ridge of hard dolomite rock, at timesover 100 meters high, sometimes craggy, and home to 1000year old cedars, black bears, rattlesnakes, ferns and orchids.National Historic site: Billy Bishop home & museum14 www.thetravelsociety.com

Inglis Falls, Niagara Escarpment, Owen SoundOur meanderings took us through the small Ontario towns ofOrangeville, Shelburne, Flesherton, Markdale, Chatsworth,and others, arriving in Owen Sound in about six leisurelyhours. Scottish and Mennonite settlers would be surprisedto learn today that many of the industrial mills that groundtheir grain and knitted their clothes have been converted tocountry inns but they were not on our itinerary. Instead,roadside tables along the way provided us with a fine picniclunch.Owen Sound, we were to discover, was a real find.Situated on the south shores of Georgian Bay in a valleybelow the sheer rocky cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment, thecity of 25,000 is a haven for artists and artisans, and is richin history. It has a beautiful harbour, two winding rivers,tree-lined streets and tree-covered hillsides and ravines.One of the city's most famous sons was World War I flyingace and Victoria Cross recipient, William Avery "Billy"Bishop, Canada's leading pilot in the war and veteran ofVimy Ridge. His boyhood home is now a museum dedicatedto his life and to Canadian aviation history. Anotherfamous son was artist Tom Thomson. The town libraryhouses the Tom Thomson art gallery and museum with asmall gift shop where you can purchase prints of his worksas well as those from his friends and followers who becameknown as the Group of Seven. Just south of the city properis the Inglis Falls Conservation Area. Inglis Falls, one ofthree waterfalls that surround Owen Sound, is an 18 metrehigh cascade created when the Sydenham River meets theedge of the Escarpment. The erosive power of the water hascarved a deep gorge at the base of the falls. There is anexcellent Interpretive Centre here with a short film thatfocuses on the formation of the Niagara Escarpment. Thereis also a viewing platform to better see the falls, over 7 kmof trails of varying degrees of difficulty, and the remains ofan old grist mill built by an enterprising young Scotsman in1862.The Best Western Inn on the Bay, at Bishops Landing wasour overnight home. The small hotel offers great views ofGeorgian Bay, an outdoor patio, and breakfast is included.That evening, we enjoyed a candlelight dinner atNathaniel's, a small friendly restaurant on 8 th street.The following morning we were up early to drive toTobermory as we had a reservation for the ferry toManitoulin Island. The drive took us through the BrucePeninsula, home to some fifty artists' studios and galleries,seven waterfalls, twelve lighthouses and the town ofWiarton, home of " Wiarton Willy", Canada's weather-forecastinggroundhog. The route also passes through the BrucePeninsula Provincial Park.At the northern tip of the Bruce Peninsula lies the town ofTobermory, population 1,200. With its frame houses and itstwo harbours - Big Tub and Little Tub - the atmosphere isone of a quiet lakeside village. It is home to the Fathom FiveNational Marine Park, Canada's first national marine park.The deep crystal-clear waters makes the park an underwaterexplorer's paradise. It consists of a myriad of islands andshoals containing spectacular underwater cliffs, and is thegraveyard of 22 sunken ships: sailing vessels, tug boats andeven freighters. The oldest shipwreck is over 150 years old.Glass-bottomed tour boats are available. The National ParkVisitor Centre, housed in a large, modern building nestledamong trees, has many informative and interactive exhibits.Located nearby is a 20 m viewing tower, which is the largesttower of its kind in Ontario. Flowerpot Island, accessibleonly by tour boat, has towering cliffs, strange rock formations,dense forests, glens, meadows and flowers, all surroundedby pristine waters. The "flowerpots" or seastackswere created by waves pounding at the cracks in the limestone,gradually wearing away the softer lower limestonefrom the harder dolomite top. The resulting shape resemblesa giant flowerpot.Fathom Five National Marine ParkThe M.S. Chi-Cheemaun, Ojibway for "The Big Canoe",is the largest passenger/car vessel on the Great Lakes. Itcompletes the 50 km route between Tobermory and SouthBaymouth, Manitoulin Island in two hours. It has a capacityof 638 passengers and 143 cars and runs four times dailyfrom May to October. We parked our car in position on theferry dock and then explored the shops, craft stores and gal-May 2010 15

Government's popular tourist attraction with an IMAX theatre.A dual admission ticket can be also purchased whichallows entry to Dynamic Earth, a mining and geology attractionlocated beside the Big Nickel.The return drive to Toronto on Highway 69, passesthrough historic fur trading routes and a stop at the FrenchRiver provides great photographic opportunities. This hadbeen a delightful 48-hour mini tour. It had seemed like aworld in microcosm … and no passports were required!The M.S. Chi-Cheemaunleries that line the harbour. We had reservations for the 11:00a.m. sailing, and once on board and out of our car, we madeour way to the outside third deck where we enjoyed a coldbeer on a glorious sunny summer day!Upon disembarking at South Baymouth we began our 70km drive to Little Current. Manitoulin Island is the largestfreshwater island in the world and is home to the Ojibway,Oclawa and Pottawatomi people who have a long historyand rich culture. During the drive we saw many signs andshrines to the Jesuit Fathers who came to this area in the1700s. Museums in Manitowaning and Shequiandah documentthe history of these First Nations People. LittleCurrent, the gateway to Manitoulin by road, is connected tothe mainland by a one-lane swing bridge. The ManitoulinTourist Centre is here, and for those waiting to see the bridgeswing, picnic tables (and washrooms) are available. Thepicturesque drive from Little Current to Espanola is along aroad that has been blasted through the pre-Cambrian rock ofthe Laurentian Shield. This is called Rainbow Country, dottedwith small lakes and inlets from the North Channel ofLake Huron.Espanola a long-time pulp and paper town, is about 60km from Little Current and halfway to Sudbury, our secondnight's destination.With a population of over 150,000 Sudbury is the largestcity in Northern Ontario. There are a total of 330 fresh waterlakes within the city boundary, and it is home to the largestmining complex in the world. There are over 5000 km ofmining tunnels under the Sudbury area. If they could beplaced end to end, you could drive the total distance fromSudbury to Vancouver underground! The Sudbury basin, 27km wide, 60 km long, and 15 km deep, is believed to havebeen formed by a meteorite impact 1.8 billion years ago.Sudbury's landmark, the Big Nickel, stands 9 meters high,symbolizing the nickel and copper mines here.Our accommodation at the Best Western Inn on LarchStreet allowed us to walk the downtown area and walk todinner that evening. Our restaurant, the Respect Is BurningSupper Club on Durham St, was a lively, funky, fun place,featuring Italian food. The following morning our time onlyallowed for a trip to Science North, the OntarioFor more information ... Best Western Inns: 1800 2nd Avenue East, Owen Soundand 151 Larch Street, Sudbury, www.bestwestern.com City of Owen Sound Tourism: www.tourismowensound.ca Nathaniel's Restaurant: 215 8th Avenue East, OwenSound, tel: 519 371 3440 Tom Thomson Art Gallery: 840 First Ave. W. OwenSound, www.tomthomson.org Billy Bishop Home & Museum: 948 Third Ave. WestOwen Sound, www.billybishop.org Niagara Escarpment: www.escarpment.org Inglis Waterfall: www.visitgrey.ca/ M.S. Chi-Cheemaun Ferry: www.ontarioferries.com Town of Tobermory: www.tobermory.org Fathom Five National Marine Park: www.pc.gc.ca Manitoulin Island Tourism: www.manitoulintourism.com Respect is Burning Supperclub: 82 Durham Street.Sudbury, www.ribsupperclub City of Sudbury Tourism: www.sudburytourism.caEditor's note:I know many of the places mentioned in this article and wouldjust like to add that a much longer holiday could be spent in thislovely region. Manitoulin Island was, in fact, a favourite campingdestination for our family many years ago. Enjoy!The Big Nickel, Sudbury16 www.thetravelsociety.com

A Day Out of Londonsuggestions from VisitBritainIt's hard to leave London, England. You could spend a lifetime there, let alone a holiday,without getting bored. But London isn't England, and getting out of town on a day trip or twocan give glimpses into other famous towns and some rural areas. The same train routesthat bring millions of commuters into the capital daily can be used to advantage as highwaysto out-of-town explorations. We've selected ten of the best and, within minutes of breakfastingin the capital, visitors can be on their way to a stately home, seaside resort or historic city,confident they will be back in time for the nightlife. (Unless otherwise indicated, the traveltimes shown are for the journey via rail.) Brighton, for seasidedelights (52 minutes).It was the funlovingPrince Regent,later King George IV,who made this resortfashionable, buildingthe exotic, orientalstyleRoyal Pavilion ashis pleasure dome in 1822. Brighton hasn't been out offashion since. City and seaside combine in a heady mixture.Go out to sea without getting your feet wet bystrolling along the pier. Renowned for its shopping andnightlife, Brighton's population is predominantly young,its pace frenetic. www.visitbrighton.com Oxford and Cambridge- centres of learning (60and 50 minutes respectively).Two of the world's oldestuniversities are northwestand north of the capitalrespectively. Oxford wasfounded in the 12th century,beating its rival by a fewdecades. At both, you cango punting along the river,though the bicycle is thepreferred means of transport. Neither has a central campus:Oxford - the 'city of dreaming spires' - has 39 separatecolleges while 31 make up the University ofCambridge. Stroll around the quadrangles or 'courts' atselected times - usually in the afternoons (times vary).The cities have remarkable museums: Oxford'sAshmolean (www.ashmolean.org) is the grand-daddy ofmuseums, dating from 1683; Cambridge has theFitzwilliam (www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/). Walkstreets trod by innumerable famous folk: from J.R.R.Tolkien and Lewis Carroll (Oxford) to Charles Darwinand Maynard Keynes (Cambridge). www.visitoxford.organd www.visitcambridge.org. Bath - historic spa city(85 minutes). The Romanswere quick to make use of thehot thermal waters gushingout of the rock that Bathstands upon. Tour their baths,then bathe in modern thermalpools (complemented by wideranging spa treatments) at theThermae Spa (www.thermaebathspa.com).Longfashionable, the city is full ofelegant 18th century neoclassical architecture that hasearned it World Heritage City status from UNESCO. Just20 km west is a bigger neighbour: Bristol (www.visitbristol.co.uk)with its landmark suspension bridge acrossthe Avon Gorge; a lively arts scene; a new shopping hub,Cabot Circus; and the world's first iron-hulled oceanliner, the s.s. Great Britain (www/ssgreatbritain.org)www.visitbath.co.uk Stratford-upon-Avonfor Midsummer Night'sDreams (130 minutes).This Heart-of-Englandmarket town put itself onthe map in 1564 whenpoet and playwright,William Shakespeare wasborn. Tour his birthplace(www.shakespeare.org.uk) and other properties linkedto the Bard. A new Royal Shakespeare Theatre is set toMay 2010 17

open in 2010; in the meantime, it's possible to take in aperformance at the Courtyard Theatre. Nearby isWarwick (www.warwick-castle.co.uk/), location of aniconic castle that brings medieval England to life, with allits chivalry, romance - and gore. www.stratford-uponavon.co.uk York, a Vikingstron-ghold (120 minutes).Thanks to anexpress train service, thishistoric walled city 337km north of London iswithin the realms of daytripterritory. Attractionsinclude a Minster churchfilled with rainbowcolouredstained glass;shopping along medievalcobbled streets, a chanceto step back a thousandyears to the city's Vikingpast at the Jorvik Centre (www.jorvik-vikingcentre.co.uk);museums; regular festivals and daily ghostwalks. The local café culture is epitomized by Betty's,where tea and cakes is a gastronomic experience.www.visityork.org Windsor, home of aroyal castle (53 minutes).While York ismany leagues beyondthe capital, Windsor isalmost next-door. Itsfocal point is world'slargest and oldest inhabitedroyal castle(www.windsor.gov.uk/-site/things-todo/windsor-castlep43983),towering above the Thames. The preferredhome of the monarch, you will know when QueenElizabeth II is in residence as the Royal Standard will beflying from the ramparts. Don't miss Queen Mary's intricatedoll's house with its working lifts and water system.Across the river stands Eton, famed for its boys' schoolwhich has tutored 18 British prime ministers.www.windsor.gov.uk. Woburn Abbey, home most stately (80 minutes bycar). Home to the Dukes of Bedford for 400 years,Woburn is a feast of art and extravagance, embellishedwith fine furniture, oldmasters, gold, silverand porcelain. Thetradition of afternoontea reputedly originatedhere, circa 1840,and you can partaketoo, in the Duchess'sTea Room. Outside,deer roam a spaciouspark, and there's a new exhibition of monumental sculpture.www.woburn.co.uk/abbey The Cotswold Hills,a green and pleasantland (120 minutes bycar). Think picture-perfecttowns and villages ofgolden stone, tea shops,and countryside of rollinghills and meadows, dottedwith gardens and historichouses. One, Snowshill Manor (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-snowshillmanor)contains a collectionof artifacts so large its eccentric owner was forcedto live in an adjacent cottage. The region sweeps in awide arc north-eastwards from Bath and is best seen bycar or on a bus tour. Towns such as Chipping Campden,Broadway and Bourton-on-the-Water are deservedly popularand often compete for the title "England's most beautifulvillage". www.cotswolds.com Orient-ExpressBritish Pullman, forluxury by train(times vary). A trainof opulent carriageswith starched tablecloths,polished mahoganydecor, andwhite-suited attendants,pulls out ofLondon's Victoria stationevery few days.It heads for day-tripdestinations includinggardens of Kent andSussex, Hever or Leeds Castle, with everything arranged,including fine dining as the countryside flashes by.Decadent perhaps, but a great way to celebrate a specialoccasion. www.orient-express.com18 www.thetravelsociety.com

Ten Vacation IdeasEarly every spring, I receive an e-mail from a fellow I don't know. The message starts: "Howdy! It's Dusty Davefrom www.RusticVacations.com here." Dave's website is a comprehensive listing of ranches, 'farms' and holidaycabins across Canada and the United States, and every spring Dave writes to "tell about ten of my favoriteGreat Rustic Summer Vacation Getaways." I actually don't think Dave is as 'dusty' as he claims as some of theproperties he lists are very upscale. Check Blackberry Farm in Tennessee, for example …it's a Relais &Chateaux property no less! No dusty folk there, you can be sure. However, all the websites do make for somewonderful escapism and I'm sure you'll be tempted. So … there's no harm in sharing Dave's list.Here it is, along with his comments … (AW)1. Blackberry Farm (Tennessee) A chic, upscalefarm with all the quaint comforts you love!www.blackberryfarm.com2. Kay El Bar Ranch (Arizona) A cool, southwestranch with adobe style accommodations.www.kayelbar.com3. Hidden Creek Cabins (North Carolina) A widevariety of creek-side cabins with views.www.hiddencreekcabins.com4. Bittersweet Farm Cabin (Indiana) Wow!Picture-perfect log cabins with front porches …ideal for just sittin'.http://www.bittersweetfarmcabin.com/5. Diamond D Ranch (Idaho) An awesome, secludeddude ranch with tons of scenic trail rides.www.diamonddranch-idaho.com6. Big Cedar Lodge (Missouri) Don't forgetMissouri! A little somethin' for everyone at thisplace. www.big-cedar.com7. Afognak Wilderness Lodge (Alaska) You won'tfind any better bear viewing than this place!www.afognaklodge.com8. Three Bars Ranch (British Columbia). Anupscale dude ranch in the Canadian Rockies completewith swimming pool.www.threebarsranch.com9. Strathcona Park Lodge (British Columbia). Anadventure resort, located right on the water, withunlimited stuff to do. www.strathcona.bc.ca10. Wing Creek Resort (British Columbia). The perfectromantic getaway in the mountains. Greatwebsite. www.wingcreekresort.comGreat Canadian War Memorial TourDesigned with history buffs and/or veterans' families inmind, Globus has announced a new, special- interest tour toEngland and France. Called the Great Canadian WarMemorial Tour of Europe, this trip is designed byCanadians, for Canadians, to pay tribute to all who servedtheir country in the two World Wards.Taking place from September 14 to 24 this year the tour,to England and France, takes in many museums, memorialsand special sites that commemorate Canadians' contributions.These include the impressive and inspiring CanadianNational Vimy Memorial at Vimy Ridge and the CanadianCemeteries in Reviers and Dieppe as well as theNewfoundland Memorial Park at Beaumont Hamel. Otherdestinations include the Landing Beaches of Normandy, theJuno Beach Memorial Centre, Amiens and Ypres."This tour has been put together in response to ourclients' requests that we help them experience first-handsome of the sites where Canadians gave so much to changeworld history," says Stéphanie Bishop, managing director inCanada for the Globus family of brands. "We've incorporatedareas of interest from both world wars which we hope areof interest not only to history buffs but also to Canadianswho grew up hearing tales of war from their parents andgrandparents." Over one million Canadians served with theBritish Forces in World War II alone.The tour includes first class accommodation and transportationin air-conditioned motorcoaches, daily breakfastsand five dinners as well as ferry transportation across theEnglish Channel. Travellers who book this tour will alsohave access to Globus' excellent transatlantic airfares. Formore information, visit www.globusjourneys.ca; for reservations,see your travel agent.May 2010 19

airline news Air Transat will have a non-stop, weekly, seasonal servicefrom Edmonton to Frankfurt between 15 June and 28September this year. Departures from Edmonton everyThuesday, returning every Wednesday. For details of thisand Air Transat's many other destinations and vacation packagesto Europe visit www.airtransat.ca Porter Airlines has already introduced a Sudbury toToronto daily service. More new services are coming,among them: from Ottawa and Toronto to Moncton, NewBrunswick, starting June 25 and non-stop service betweenMontreal and Halifax, with connecting flights to St. John's,also commencing 25 June. All details at www.flyporter.com WestJet has unveiled its long-delayed credit card andfrequent-flyer programmes. Customers can earn “WestJetdollars” for purchases they make on a new Royal BankMasterCard, that then may be used for flights or vacationpackages. The dollars earned may also be put toward seatsales and will not be subject to blackouts or seat restrictions.(In case you think you've heard this before, the programmewas intitially to be introduced last June, but was put on holduntil kinks in the airline's new reservation system could beworked out.) One programme offers rewards of 1.5% inWestJet dollars, as well as travel insurance, hotel discountsand upgrades, for an annual fee of $79; while the other earnscardholders 1% back in WestJet dollars for an annual fee of$39. Visit www.westjet.com and click on 'WestJet CreditCard' for full information.Safety in MexicoIn tackling the question of tourist safely in Mexico,the Department of Foreign Affairs, Canada(www.voyage.gc.ca/countries_pays/report_rapport-eng.asp?id=184000)and the U.S. StateDepartment (http://travel.state.gov) are pointing outthat the areas of concern are not the beach resorts orhistorical cities most Canadians and Americans visit,but rather the border towns, specifically Tijuana,Nogales, Ciudad Juarez, Nuevo Laredo, Monterreyand Matamoros.Too often in the past, these types of governmentalerts have taken a broad-brush approach, simplyadvising against travel to a country as a whole. What'sdifferent about the recent warnings are their levels ofdetail, and the way they rightly target only townswhere drug-related violence has been rampant. Ifyou're planning a vacation soon, study the above websitesand heed the governments' advice: avoid theabove towns and elsewhere use common-sense precautionssuch as visiting only legitimate business andtourist areas during daylight hours, and avoiding areaswhere drug dealing might occur.Earlier Editor's LetterBefore I left for England, I'd prepared this letter for this edition. As we all know, the volcano remained in the news and I,and perhaps you, felt the impact of it. But my earlier letter remains relevant, so I thought I'd publish it as well. Here it is:The stories we brought you last month on Israel and Iceland could be described as "bad timing" on mypart. There was trouble in Jerusalem as the Israelis unveiled some unpopular building plans and then, whowould have thought, the Eyjafjalla volcano erupted in Iceland for the first time since 1823.But, as you may have read, Eyjafjalla has created great tourism interest in Iceland. Special tours arebeing offered, including a nearby restaurant offering "dinner with a view" and there's a trip out ofReykjavik that leaves in the afternoon, stops along the coast for dinner, allows the participants to see thevolcano in the hours of darkness and then returns them to Reykjavik at 2 a.m.I was all set to give more details in this edition, since it all sounded rather exciting. But then I openedThe Globe and Mail on Saturday, 3 April, to find a large photograph of spectators watching the volcanobut with a far less benign story attached. The article was headed "From Iceland's depths, an ancient perilerupts into the midst of a modern crisis." Apparently this relatively minor volcanic activity may be heraldingthe eruption of a much more violent and dangerous volcano in the region. On the three occasions thatEyjafjalla has erupted in the last thousand years, neighbouring volcano Katla has followed with an eruptionof its own, with catastrophic consequences. The article quoted Pall Einarsson, a geophysicist at theUniversity of Iceland, who said, "Katla is a vicious volcano that could cause both local and global damage."So, dear readers, please be cautious if Iceland is in your plans. And if you'd like to read the completearticle here's the link: http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/world/from-icelands-depths-anancient-peril-erupts-into-the-midst-of-a-modern-crisis/article1521587/It's a sobering read indeed.AW20 www.thetravelsociety.com

You’ll have plenty of timeto explore Buenos Aires;you’ll fly to the wineries of Mendoza; you’ll take an excursion toTupungato Mountain and Silver Range in the heart of the Andesthen travel on to Chile and explore Santiago; you’ll visit theColchagua Valley (one of the most fertile in Chile and dedicatedmostly to wine production) and be taken to the coast – observingthe spectacular, ever-changing landscape and vegetation – for a tourof Valparaiso and Viña del Mar. But that’s just the outline of theNEW!AIR-INCLUSIVE PRICES departing:Vancouver:$6,849 pp/dbl.Toronto, Montreal and Ottawa: $6,535 pp/dbl.Calgary:$6,849 pp/dbl.Single supplement:$2,199 pp/dbl.~ tours for members and their friends.South Africa - the ShongololoGood Hope TourDeparting: 23 Oct 2010 and26 Feb & 29 Oct 2011Come with The Travel Society on a great adventure: the Shongololo Good Hope Adventure train trip … a wonderful tour ofthe highlights of South Africa in luxurious comfort. Johnnesburg, Pretoria, Kruger National Park, Durban, Swaziland,Bloemfontein, Port Elizabeth, Mossel Bay and Cape Town are all on the itinerary yet you only have to unpack once! And you'llhave a wide choice of exciting activities to enjoy. And most programmes are included when you travel with The Travel Society.So whether this is your first or fifth visit to South Africa, you can be sure of experiencing something new. And every night youwill return to the comfort of your train.'Nature & Wildlife' experiences include safari trips, hikes, cave visits, whale watching and more. The 'Culture & People'excursions include city tours of the country's major cities as well as trips into Swaziland, Shakaland and Zululand. The'Highlights and Leisure' component offers relaxing days on the train or the beach, enjoying the spectacular scenery in comfort… the perfect choice for those who love to travel but are not as mobile as they once were. And the 'Special Activities' are forthe truly adventurous: caves, shark cage diving, balloon rides and helicopter flights over Cape Town and the Cape Peninsula.On these extraordinary train journeys you can choose to do as much or as little as you like. Contact us for the full itineraryand list of options and create the trip of a lifetime!Pre-tour -Victoria Falls, Chobe Nat. Park & Botswana - 5 days$2,796 pp/dbl inc ALL Air & additional hotelPRICES INCLUDING ALL AIR AND TAXESToronto $9,324 pp/dbl Ottawa $9,474 pp/dblMontreal $9,324 pp/dbl Vancouver $9,574 pp/dblCalgary $9,574 pp/dbl Winnipeg $9,574 pp/dblHalifax$9,694 pp/dblSingle from $8,432 pp/snglPrices are subject to confirmationTHE WINESOF CHILE ANDARGENTINAPrices are available from all major citiesPrices are subject to confirmation19 days!Prices includE ALL Air and THE SHONGOLOLOplus Package with choiceof included land excursionsDeparting: 28 May, 18 June & 17 July 2010and Spring & Fall 2011tour! Of course you’ll tour a variety of vineyards and enjoy winetastings; but you’ll also enjoy a tango evening and see Eva Peron’sgrave; you’ll visit soaring cathedrals, adobe style buildings andmuseums large and small, including renowned Colchagua Museum.You’ll cross the Inca Bridge on your way to Las Cuevas, the lastvillage in Argentina close to the border, where soars the 4,000 m.statue of Christ the Redeemer, symbol of friendship between thetwo countries. Every day will hold a new delight … as well as fineaccommodations and delicious food. This is a wonderful tour ofthese two fascinating countries.Your tour includes:- All air and land transportation.- All transfers and baggage handling.- All accommodation and meals as per the itinerary.- All specified tours and excursions with English-speaking guides.- ALL TAXESPlease call1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details. All our tours are speciallypriced for Travel Society members and are only available at these prices through our office.#1280649Call1 877 926 2500for the complete itineraryPrices include …- Return international airfare on British Airways- Canadian airfare (when necessary)- Pre-Day in Johannesburg included- On-board train accommodation throughout- Meals: breakfast and dinner, lunch available- Luxury a/c Mercedes coaches- A free choice of available land excursions- Experienced SA Tourism-accredited tour guides- Special Travel Society experiences- Airport transfers with full luggage service- ALL TAXESCall1 877 926 2500for the complete itineraryMay 201021

~ tours for members and their friends.It is vast, fascinating and mysterious and it has beckoned travellers from the west forcenturies. Mention it to avid travellers and they are sure to say, “Yes, I hope to visitChina one day.” And what would they choose to experience? A cruise on themighty Yangtze River (now in the process of changing for ever); a look at the workin-progresson the massive Three Gorges Dam; a walk on the ancient Great Wall; time in mysterious Guilin; views of charming villages,lush terraced hillsides and magnificent mountain peaks; visits to the great cities of Shanghai and Beijing; a trip to view one of theworld’s greatest archaeological finds … the 6,000 terra-cotta warriors at Xi’an; scenes of palaces, pagodas, pavilions and pandas; tastesof Peking duck and Chinese banquets and so much more. So how do you choose? When you decide on The Travel Society’s tour there’sno need to choose because all these highlights are included. Yes, in these remarkable 18 days you’ll stay in Beijing; you’ll take a 4-dayfirst-class cruise on the Yangtze with many shore excursions; you’ll fly to see those centuries-old terra-cotta warriors in Xi’an; you’ll visitbustling Chongqing and see its pandas; stay in Hangzhou and travel into the hills covered with tea plantations; explore the exquisite gardensof Suzhou, and visit Nanjing and Wuzhen. And you’ll have time to explore spectacular Shanghai. Throughout the trip you’ll see magnificentarchitecture, you’ll be entertained at cultural events, you’ll join your hosts at a variety of banquets, you’ll have time to shop, andyou’ll marvel at some of the most wonderful scenery on earth, all in the company of English-speaking guides. You’ll travel by plane, byluxury bus, cruise ship and river boat. Many of our members have told us it’s an experience of a lifetime … and all at an amazing price!PRICES INCLUDING ALL AIR AND TAXESVancouver $4,145 pp/dbl Victoria $4,195 pp/dblCalgary $4,420 pp/dbl Edmonton $4,420 pp/dblSaskatoon/Regina $4,590 pp/dbl Winnipeg $4,590 pp/dblToronto $4,490 pp/dbl Ottawa $4,490 pp/dblMontreal $4,490 pp/dbl St. John’s $4,850 pp/dblHalifax/Quebec $4,850 pp/dbl London $4,850 pp/dblSingle supplement $1,195 (Sharing can be arranged.)Visas extra. Prices are subject to confirmationADD-ON HONG KONG4 days/3 nights $1,288 pp/dblSingle supplement $544ADD-ON TOKYO4 days/3 nights $1,375 pp/dblSingle supplement $299Copper Canyon & Mexico CityAir-inclusive prices:Toronto $4,495 pp/dbl Ottawa $4,595 pp/dblMontreal $4,595 pp/dbl Vancouver $4,695 pp/dblCalgary $4,795 pp/dbl Halifax $4,795 pp/dblWinnipeg $4,795 pp/dbl (Add-On) Mexico City $98.50 pp/dblSingle supplement $799 (Sharing can be arranged.) Prices are subject to confirmationChina Yangtze,Guilin SpectacularADD-ON BANGKOK4 days/3 nights $1,185 pp/dblSingle supplement $350ADD-ON KYOTO4 days/3 nights $1,450 pp/dblSingle supplement $325Departing: 15 Jun, 6 Jul, 6 Sept, 11 Oct and 15 Nov 2010,Spring & Fall 2011We are offering a new 9-day tour to Mexico City and the Copper Canyon. The Copper Canyon is four times larger than the GrandCanyon, and you’ll enjoy a journey that is considered by many to be the world’s most exciting train trip, with its 87 tunnels, 39bridges and uncountable spectacular views. You’ll meet the people, stay in unique accommodationsand explore the present and the past in this astonishing region.1 877 926 2500from $4,145 for18 days!Departing: 11 Oct 2010, 21 Mar & 19 Sep 2011Your tour includes:- Round-trip transpacific air fares on Japan Airlinesor Air Canada- Canadian & Chinese domestic airfares- First-class hotel accommodation- First-class 4 days/3 nights Yangtze River cruise aboarda deluxe cruise ship- All transfers- Daily sightseeing- Three meals daily and 2 Western-style dinners.- Special banquets in Hangzhou, Xi’an and Beijing- Evening cultural shows- Fully escorted by English/Chinese-speaking tour guide- English-speaking local guides- Free time in Beijing & Shanghai- ALL TAXESCallCallfor the complete itinerary1 877 926 2500for the complete itineraryYour tour includes:- All air on Mexicana/Air Canada- Canadian domestic air- Bilingual guides- 8 nights’ first-class accommodation- All transfers, baggage handling & tips- Meals as per the itinerary- All train trips and tours as per the itinerary- ALL TAXES22www.thetravelsociety.com

~ tours for members and their friends.SPECTACULARSouth Africa ...Come with The Travel Society to a land of wonder … on a South African tripunlike any other. Designed especially for our members, this trip takes in allthe highlights: Kruger National Park for game watching, the famous GardenRoute, the beautiful wine region of Stellenbosch and the sights of incomparable CapeTown, including Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive and Robben Island. But on ourtrip you will do far more. You will tour the Great scarpment of Eastern Transvaal –a place so beautiful writers run out of adjectives – where you will visit God’sWindow, the Blyde River Canyon and historical townslike Pilgrims Rest. You’ll seeJohannesburg and be escorted to Soweto for lunch in a Township house and jazz in afamous nightspot. You’ll enter the Kingdom of Swaziland to meet the people andenjoy more game watching. Zululand is also on the itinerary, with its historical sitesand unique entertainment traditions. You’ll be driven through the Valley of aThousand Hills to East London and you’ll visit the Addo Elephant National Park andtraverse the Little Karoo Desert – flanked by great mountain ranges – to see theCango Caves. You’ll travel in a luxury air-conditioned coach, you’ll stay in lovelyproperties ranging from good hotels to charming chalets, you’ll enjoy a wide varietyof entertainment and you’ll enjoy South Africa’s delicious cuisine and wines andyou’ll be escorted all the way by SA Tourism-accredited guides. Here at The TravelSociety we know South Africa well … and we can’t imagine a more comprehensive,in-depth and fascinating tour of South Africa.Call1 877 926 2500for the complete itineraryNow a 20-day tour at the same incredible priceDepartures: 8 Oct 2010, 25 Feb & 29 Oct 2011Your tour includes:- Return international airfare on British Airways- First-class accommodation throughout- Luxury a/c coach- Experienced SA Tourism-accredited tour guides- Special Travel Society experiences- Most meals; breakfast, light lunch and dinner- All transfers with full luggage service- All sightseeing fees (with no hidden extras)- ALL TAXESPRICES INCLUDING AIR AND TAXESToronto $7,895 pp/dblOttawa $8,195 pp/dblMontreal $7,895 pp/dblVancouver $8,195 pp/dblCalgary $8,195 pp/dblWinnipeg $8,195 pp/dblHalifax $8,195 pp/dblSingle supplement $849.00 (sharing can be arranged)Prices are subject to confirmationPre-tour -Victoria Falls & Zimbabwe - 3 days$1,496 pp/dbl inc AirGalapagos Islandsand EcuadorSmallShipCruisewith options to Kapawi Lodge in the Amazon and Machu Picchu, Peru14 days departing: 21 Sep, 12 Oct, 16 Nov 2010, Spring & Fall 2011Your tour includes:- Round-trip international air- All domestic air transportation- All accommodation- First class Galapagos smallship cruise- All meals as per the itinerary- Admissions to all sites- Expert Galapagos guides- Transfers & baggage handling- Islands Park Entrance Fee (US $100)- ALL TAXESCall1 877 926 2500for the completeitineraryThe Travel Society is proud to be able to offer its members an outstanding trip to some of the world’s most spectacular destinations. Whohasn’t dreamed of cruising to the Galapagos Islands and seeing wildlife as Darwin witnessed it? Think of the unique adventure you willenjoy, of the stories you will have to tell and the photographs you will take! You will spend a week aboard your first-class 20-passenger ship,taking daily shore excursions to a variety of the islands with experienced naturalistsin groups of no more than 10 people per guide. You’ll also visit other destinationsin Ecuador, and then you can choose to enjoy the exciting optional extensions:to Kapawi - a ecological lodge in the Amazon and/or a visit Machu Picchuin Peru. We’ll take care of all the travel details. All you have to do is enjoy!NEW!Pre-tour -Victoria Falls & Chobe Nat. Park & Botswana - 5 days$2,796 pp/dbl inc ALL AirPRICES INCLUDING AIR AND TAXESToronto - $6,895.00 pp/dbl Vancouver - $7,354.00 pp/dblMontreal - $6,995.00 pp/dbl Calgary - $7,454.00 pp/dblOttawa - $7,254.00 pp/dblGREATADD-ONS, INCLUDING AIRKapawi ~ $1,996.00 pp/dbl Machu Picchu ~ $1,996.00 pp/dblPrices are subject to confirmationPlease call1 877 926 2500 x25 or 416 926 2500 x25 for the full details. All our tours are speciallypriced for Travel Society members and are only available at these prices through our office. #1280649May 201023

Don’t let my membership run out ...please: RENEW MY MEMBERSHIP ____or START A NEW MEMBERSHIP ____or SEND A GIFT MEMBERSHIP ____check your discount choice, we will extendyour membership from the expiry date:____ 3 years for $110.00(a 21% saving off the regular $140.00)____ 2 years for $79.50(a 16% saving off the regular $95.00)____ 1 year for $44.00(a 10% saving off the regular $49.00)All prices include GST.____ my cheque is enclosed, or charge my:____ VISA ____ Mastercardcard #: ______________________________expiry: ____________ tel:_______________signature: ___________________________I agree to pay The Travel Society the above amount in accordance with the card issuer agreement.24 www.thetravelsociety.com~ tours for members and their friends.Two very special NEW tours for 2010Costa Rica à la carteYour tour costs includes:- Return international airfares- Personally designed itinerary- Your choice of over 24 first class Hotels, Inns and Resorts- Choice of 2- or 4-wheel drive rental cars- A local representative providing all documents, mapsand instructions- A local representative available 24/7 for help and advice- All meals as indicated in the itinerary.- All meet and greet services.- Services of English-speaking guides.- ALL TAXESThe Best Safari of East AfricaCosta Rica is a friendly and safe destination, especially popular with nature lovers due to its abundant parks and wildlife. Come with TheTravel Society on a unique programme that allows you to design your own itinerary, see what you want to see, and do it all at your ownpace in your own rental car. What do we do? We provide a local representative who will provide you with all documents, maps and instructionsas well as help or advice at any time during your tour, 24/7. Our Costa Rica experts will draw on their knowledge of over two dozenfirst class hotels, inns and resorts to fit your itinerary and, of course, we arrange your car rental. Choose to explore for 7, 10 or 14 nights, discusswhere you'd like to go and we'll do the rest. Land-only prices start at $590dbl., for 7 nights with a standard car to $1,095 for 14 nights with a 4-wheeldrivecar. Go with your partner … go with a friend! It's a great bargain. Wealso arrange low-cost charter or scheduled flights to complete your trip.Sample pricing from Toronto ~ INCLUDING AIR8 Days - 7 Nights from $2,294 pp/dbl15 Days - 14 Nights from $2,996 pp/dblVisas extra. Prices are subject to confirmation21 Days departing: 20 Oct 2010,16 Feb & 21 Sept 2011Come with The Travel Society on a 21-day safari to East Africa! You’ll visit tea, pineapple and coffee plantations, you’ll see lovely waterfalls,you’ll make new friends in a Maasai Village, you may take a balloon safari. You’ll swim and take nature walks. You’ll see many ofthe regions 350 bird species, including millions of flamingoes. But … most important of all, you’ll see the animals that you’ve always dreamedYour tour costs includes:- Return international airfares on British Airways- All first class accommodation.- All meals as indicated in the itinerary.- All meet and greet services and transfers.- Game viewing drives and parks entrance fees as indicatedin the itinerary. (No hidden charges)- Transportation in chauffeur-driven minivans with pop-openroof and Safari Land Rovers.- Services of English-speaking driver-guides.- Safety accessories in safari vehicles, including two-waylong-range high frequency radio communication.- ALL TAXESDepartures: 22 June, 7 & 21 Sept, 5 & 19 Oct, 9 &23 Nov 2010 and Jan, Feb & Mar 2011Prices are available from all major citiesof: lion, elephant, leopard, cheetah, rhino, wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, antelopes,gazelles, warthogs and more. You’ll stay in some of the luxurious tentedcamps and lodges that have made Kenya and Tanzania a traveller’s paradise:Sweet Waters, Sarova Lion Hill, Mara Sopa, Amboseli Serena, Kiruruma,Serengeti Sopa, Tarangire Sopa and the renowned Ngorongoro Sopa.PRICES INCLUDING ALL AIR AND TAXESVancouver $9,878 pp/dbl Victoria $9,996 pp/dblCalgary $9,996 pp/dbl Edmonton $9,996 pp/dblWinnipeg $9,996 pp/dbl Toronto $9,389 pp/dblOttawa/Montreal $9,389 pp/dbl Halifax $10,378 pp/dblSingle supplement $1,398 (Sharing can be arranged.)Visas extra. Prices are subject to confirmationYOUR DISCOUNT VOUCHER FOR RENEWALS, GIFTS AND NEW MEMBERSHIPSAddress for NEW or GIFT membership onlyname:______________________________________address: ___________________________________town: __________________________ prov: _______postal code: _____________ tel:________________gift message: __________________________________________________________________________Send to: The Travel Society218-1033 Bay St Toronto ON Canada M5S 3A5Fax: 416 926 0222 e-mail: brit@thetravelsociety.comPublications Mail Agreement: # 40063904 & # 09925