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Slovenia (cont.)<br />

Continued from Page 47<br />

and modern buildings; medieval squares; Baroque<br />

churches and cathedrals; shops, cafés,<br />

w<strong>or</strong>kplaces and restaurants on the banks <strong>of</strong><br />

the Ljubljanica River; and the bridges over<br />

that river. One <strong>of</strong> these bridges is called<br />

Butchers Bridge, and has oversized sculptures<br />

at both ends and a row <strong>of</strong> “love padlocks” that<br />

couples attach <strong>to</strong> steel wires along the sides<br />

<strong>of</strong> the bridge. There is also a castle, <strong>to</strong>pped by<br />

a dragon and an outlook <strong>to</strong>wer overlooking<br />

the city; Urbanc House, the city’s first department<br />

s<strong>to</strong>re, built in 1903; and one <strong>of</strong> Europe’s<br />

first residential “skyscrapers,” the 13-s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

Neboticnik built in 1933, which now houses<br />

shops, <strong>of</strong>fices and residences. The city has<br />

many parks, sp<strong>or</strong>ts facilities, museums, art<br />

galleries, and a university with 23 faculties.<br />

In sum, the city has something f<strong>or</strong> everyone<br />

in an attractive, congenial atmosphere.<br />

To the south <strong>of</strong> Ljubljana is a marsh that<br />

covers 163 square miles. Houses and other<br />

buildings here are built on stilts <strong>to</strong> protect<br />

them when the water periodically rises. One<br />

such structure is St. Michael’s Church in Cma<br />

48 GOING DUTCH<br />

Vas, designed by the famous Slovenian architect<br />

Joze Plecnik. The church is built <strong>of</strong><br />

wood and can only be entered by climbing<br />

the stairs. Inside, the wooden walls are beautifully<br />

dec<strong>or</strong>ated and enhanced by chandeliers<br />

and the Stations <strong>of</strong> the Cross made <strong>of</strong> copper,<br />

giving the room a s<strong>of</strong>tly glowing light and<br />

feeling <strong>of</strong> calm and peace. The maj<strong>or</strong> part <strong>of</strong><br />

the marshland, which has great biodiversity<br />

and has been the site <strong>of</strong> archeological discoveries<br />

including the oldest wheel in the<br />

w<strong>or</strong>ld, is now a protected UNESCO W<strong>or</strong>ld<br />

Heritage Site.<br />

Located in n<strong>or</strong>theast Slovenia is the country’s<br />

second most imp<strong>or</strong>tant city, Marib<strong>or</strong>,<br />

which lies on the Dura River and dates back<br />

<strong>to</strong> the 12th century. In the 15th century there<br />

was a substantial Jewish population here with<br />

a synagogue, Talmudic school and cemetery.<br />

Through the ages, there were periods when<br />

the Jews were f<strong>or</strong>ced <strong>to</strong> leave the country.<br />

The most recent <strong>of</strong> these was in 1941 when<br />

Germany invaded Yugoslavia, annexed part<br />

<strong>of</strong> the country <strong>to</strong> the Third Reich and sent<br />

any remaining Jews <strong>to</strong> concentration camps.<br />

The synagogue survived the war and is not<br />

only one <strong>of</strong> the oldest preserved temples in<br />

Europe but also only one <strong>of</strong> two remaining<br />

in Slovenia. Next <strong>to</strong> the synagogue is a statue<br />

commem<strong>or</strong>ating the Holocaust victims <strong>of</strong><br />

WWII. Because it was an industrial city with<br />

an extensive armaments industry, Marib<strong>or</strong><br />

was heavily bombed and<br />

damaged in WWII. Thus it<br />

is surprising that there are<br />

still remains <strong>to</strong> be seen <strong>of</strong><br />

medieval structures such as<br />

the city walls and the castle.<br />

Plans have been developed<br />

<strong>to</strong> renovate the center <strong>of</strong> the<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn, but f<strong>or</strong> economic<br />

reasons they are yet <strong>to</strong> be<br />

realized.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the special sites<br />

<strong>of</strong> Marib<strong>or</strong> is the 440-yearold<br />

grapevine, the oldest in<br />

the w<strong>or</strong>ld acc<strong>or</strong>ding <strong>to</strong> the<br />

Guinness W<strong>or</strong>ld Rec<strong>or</strong>ds. Marib<strong>or</strong> was named<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the European Cultural Capitals f<strong>or</strong><br />

2012, and has been designated as the European<br />

Youth Capital f<strong>or</strong> 2013. It is also a sp<strong>or</strong>ts<br />

and recreation center, and has <strong>or</strong>ganized many<br />

w<strong>or</strong>ld-class sp<strong>or</strong>ting events. On our way back<br />

<strong>to</strong> the capital we s<strong>to</strong>pped <strong>of</strong>f <strong>to</strong> visit one <strong>of</strong><br />

the country’s many pilgrimage churches with<br />

its beautiful 15th century reliefs and brilliant<br />

modern stained glass windows.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the highlights <strong>of</strong> our <strong>to</strong>ur was a<br />

visit <strong>to</strong> Lake Bled, a glacial body <strong>of</strong> deep blue<br />

water with a small island, on the <strong>to</strong>p <strong>of</strong> which<br />

are perched a church and a castle. Special<br />

boats piloted by single oarsmen deliver visi<strong>to</strong>rs<br />

<strong>to</strong> the island. Once disembarked, the visi<strong>to</strong>r<br />

ascends a stairway <strong>of</strong> 99 steps up <strong>to</strong><br />

a terrace and then, after pausing <strong>to</strong> catch >> 51<br />

NOVEMBER 2012 49

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