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and jelly, I had proscuitto and gateaux di patate. No one would trade with me…Idon’t even think they understood!” she laughs.Marisa gestures to the kitchen where she introduces me to Executive ChefOdette Fada, a petite Italian woman with jet black hair and a friendly, freneticstyle. Hailing from a town in Northern Italy called Brescia, she was recently nominatedby the James Beard Foundation as one of the best chefs in New York andis considered one of the best Italian chefs in the country. She is known for herwide range of delicacies including homemade Sea Urchin-filled Raviolini in a spicyscallop and cherry tomato ragu and Roasted Rabbit with green olives, marjoramand fennel marmalade.Cultivating her talents with inspiring trips to Union Square Market and twomonths a year in Italy, Fada brings back fine herbs, savory cheeses, and new techniques.“One dish I was proud to discover in northeastern Italy was Dumplings andSmall Plums—gnocchi with the entire fruit inside! I couldn’t find the plums hereso I went to the market and used figs instead.Yes, my inspiration was in Italy, butI had to come here to evolve,” she explains.Meanwhile, a coast away, for more than thirty years Piero Selvaggio continuesto set the standard for fine Italian fare with his lasting Los Angeles landmark,Valentino. A far cry from his days washing pots and pans at NYU’s cafeteria, henow counts Wolfgang Puck among one of his closest friends and commands arare sense of purpose when he enters the room, possessing an exuberant acceptanceof life seen only among the elite class of self-made men.“Twenty years ago, Los Angeles was the gastronomical capital of the U.S.;Californians were aggressive and curious. Chefs like Thomas Keller, Joachim, MichelRicard, and Nobu were beginning to hit the scene, but many only knew the immi-Above: From left to right,Valentino Santa Monica’s Angelo Auriana,Valentino Las Vegas’Luciano Pellegrini, Owner Piero Selvaggio and Giorgio at Mandalay Place’s Nico Chessa.Image courtesy Valentino.Top:Valentino’s Heirloom Tomatoes with Burrata. Above:The White Chocolate Semifreddo.Images courtesy Valentino.Art and Living 87