CrossroadsThe Spirit of the Tidewater CommunityLawrence S. Earley and Karen Willis Amspacher“Here at the water’s edge, wherethe land meets the sea with marshand shoal, sandy beaches and muddybottom, is where life begins for allcoastal people,” writes Karen WillisAmspacher, a Down East native.Even now, the area still bears aresemblance to the New World as itfirst appeared to the ancestors of thefamilies who live there today. Theinseparable connection to the watermakes it a “different world,” as onefisherman says.Atlantic, perched on the landwardside of the shallow waters of CoreSound near the very northeastern tipof Carteret County, is such a world.Yet, in many respects, Atlantic is likeany other small community in <strong>North</strong><strong>Carolina</strong>. People here are churchgoers,they attend college, they jointhe armed forces. They are Tar Heelsand Americans linked in the largerweb of allegiances that bind ustogether as a state and nation.As you enter town on the main drive,you will see a Red & White, a chaingrocery store being a necessity evenamong the independent fishermen ofthe town. You’ll also find the AtlanticMissionary Baptist Church acrossfrom the cemetery and the UnitedMethodist Church just up the roadfrom the elementary school.The sign at the edge of this town,however, declares its difference:“Atlantic — Living from the Sea.”Between the community’s nameand its motto, the designer hasplaced the image of a boat’s wheelto graphically reinforce the town’sidentity. Living from (and with) thesea means fishing, and fishing is atthe core of Atlantic’s self-definition.As fisherman Buster Salter says ofhis Atlantic forebears, “They werefishermen. That’s what we’ve doneall our lives here, our fathers andgrandfathers and their fathersbefore them.”The fishing life is a harsh one, fullof tedious hours of hands-on laborand frequent disappointment. Butfishermen are known for their nativeoptimism. For most of them, therewill always be another day, anotherseason, another year. And even whennets were half-full, they lived a lifethat was so rich in the sights andsounds and smells of the sea thatthey wouldn’t willingly trade it fora desk job and a steady salary.“That’s the thing that most peopledon’t understand about fishermen;they’re free spirits,” says J. M. Brownof Marshallberg, another Core Soundcommunity well-known for its fishingand boatbuilding traditions. “That’swhat my daddy said. He’d say, ‘Idon’t have one hour that’s for sale.’He didn’t think much of having towork at a job where he had to be inat 8 o’clock.”Fishermen are fierce competitors,but they also recognize that theyare ultimately brothers engaged ina life of common purpose and sharedhardships. Often, that link is moreimportant than a day’s success. “I’veseen a lot of people throw down aday’s work to give somebody a handworking on an engine or a net ortowing somebody back in,” JonathanRobinson of Atlantic says. “I don’tthink they do that on Wall Street.”In many small towns, the mostimportant public buildings asidefrom the school and the churches arethe court house and the municipalbuilding. In Atlantic, the most importantpublic places have traditionally
een the harbor and the fish house.If there’s a beating heart to thischanging community, it throbs atAtlantic Harbor where the whitefishing boats are tied up in a longrow, bows pointed out, ready toembark. One can still come here at3 a.m. and watch the long-haul workboatshead out of the harbor, brightlights stabbing the darkness, sea birdsproviding a noisy accompaniment asthe boats work the long passage upCore Sound toward Ocracoke. You cansee the pound netters, the crabbers,the shrimpers and the oystermendepart, tying up in the evening aftera long day or night on the water,engines finally falling silent for thefirst time in hours.A returning fisherman invariablyheads to the fish house. The fishhouse is where the fishermen selltheir catch and buy their fuel andice. It’s the fisherman’s indispensableconnection to the larger worldAbout the AuthorsIn late winter 2008, the <strong>North</strong> <strong>Carolina</strong> Humanities Council, with additionalsupport from the <strong>North</strong> Caroliniana Society, cosponsored “The Workboatsof Core Sound Symposium and Photography Exhibit” at the Core SoundWaterfowl Museum and Heritage Center on Harkers Island in CarteretCounty. The exhibit was based on photographs taken over a period oftwenty years by Lawrence S. Earley, scholar and former editor of Wildlifein <strong>North</strong> <strong>Carolina</strong> magazine and author of the award-winning Looking forLongleaf: The <strong>Fall</strong> and Rise of an American Forest (2001). In addition tophotography, Earley contributed material from thirty interviews with localresidents and fisherman.The symposium, “A Day-Long Celebration of Down East Boats & the MenWho Work Them,” featured remarks by museum Executive Director KarenWillis Amspacher, a life-long resident of Harkers Island, a descendant offishermen and boatbuilders. Presentations included a panel discussionby fishermen Danny Mason, Jonathan Robinson, John “Buster” Salter,and Bradley Styron. As the exhibit, the symposium, and this issue ofCrossroads show, the boats provide an entry point into a discussionfor this community about its past, the changing present, and theunclear future.Long-haul workboats and run boats tied up at Clayton Fulcher SeafoodCo. in Atlantic, NC, in the early 1960s. Photo by Jerry Schumaker.NC <strong>Conversations</strong> • Winter 2008 • 5