Web chaptertwo Hair patterns and designs - Cengage Learning

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12NVQ3 Hair patterns and designs AH35PHOTO COURTESY OF UK SKILLSDonna Leach representing the UKin WorldSkills 2007 Team UKMedals, Shizuoka, JapanRememberA kohl pencil or whitepencil is sufficient to markeither dark or fair hair andany misdrawn areas can beremoved during shampooingafterwards.If the barber’s in which you work do a lot of hair design and pattern work, they wouldprobably have found a fast commercial way of transferring stencil design to the head, if itis a service that is ‘few and far between’ then a simpler process will suffice.The hardest part of transferring designs from stencils to the head is the re-drawingstage. Here your stencil (or paper-based) design has to be positioned and redrawn witha dark eyeliner-type pencil (for fairer hair types) or white pencil (for darker hair). Theaccuracy and time afforded to this part of the process is directly related to the quality ofthe finished effect, so take your time to check the positioning and that the client is OKwith the designs positioning before you start, as well as during the cutting.Projection If your shop does a lot of design work, then a quick way of accuratelytransferring, positioning and transferring design would have been found. Projection fromeither an overhead projector or computer-based system is a very quick and accurateway of doing the design transfer to the head. A transparency, (acetate film) on anoverhead projector (OHP) will display any design on dark or light hair with a very highand scaleable definition, on to any surface whether it be flat or in 3D.The added benefit of a projection-based design transfer is that the client can get a clearidea of the design, pattern or textural effect in both outline or in a full colour effect beforestarting. Whether the financial outlay is worth the investment is up to the business manager.Manual transfer In a manual transfer technique the transparency or traced imagehas to be positioned over the head and the outline and detail has to be carefully drawnonto the hair. The biggest problem is transferring a 2D design onto a 3D head; a lot ofcare, patience and accuracy are essential.EKU statementAH35 34) How and when touse clipper over comb,scissors over comb, fading,negative and positiveimaging and freehandtechniques when creatingdesigns in hair.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ActivityComplete the table below to show the processes that take place in each ofthe tasks. Keep a copy for future use within your portfolio.TaskConsultationPre-cuttingTransfer a design to the headWhat takes place?Create the designsAftercare adviceAH35.3Create patterns in hairClippersIntricate design requires accurate cutting and having the correct tools to do the job iseverything. Normal everyday clippers are fine for removing large amounts of hair veryquickly; but when it comes to working the detail of smaller textures and designs, then theother varieties of smaller, narrower bladed clippers are essential.
General purpose, mains electric, clippers have a cutting blade width of approximately3 cm. This is OK for linear etching and surface (lateral plane) hair removal. But fordetailed work, you need to use lighter and narrower, rechargeable clippers that haveblade widths down to less than 1 cm. These can be easily manipulated without havingtrailing leads in the way, so that you can create curves, raised or fielded planes inboth 2D and 3D.There are two ways of holding clippers for cutting purposes;1 Fixed blade down – the normal way for removing hair and for using the differentsized clipper grades.2 Inversed, i.e. fixed blade up – this provides a lining tool for cutting outline perimetershapes such as necklines, or as an etching tool for creating detail within a hairstyle.Normal cutting techniqueªHABIAInversed cutting techniqueªHABIARememberClippers used in theinversed position areused for lining, necklineshapes and detailing so morecare must be taken as thecutting edges are very close tothe skin.RememberMachine clippers cut hairvery quickly, so clearaway any loose clippingsso that you can see exactlywhere you are within the design.If you do make a mistake withinthe design by cutting too muchhair away, you will need toadapt your overall design tocompensate for the missinghair, possibly by making adesign feature of the area.13NVQ3 Hair patterns and designs AH35Clippers held for normal and inversed cutting techniquesCutting a 2D patternWith the outlines and detail drawn on to the pre-cut hair, you can carefully start etchingaway the unwanted hair using the correct size clippers in the inversed holding technique.As the clippers remove the hair and create the desired lines, make sure that you brushaway the cut hair so that you can clearly see the patterning/lining that you are creating.Any cut hair left in position will mislead you into thinking that the area still needs work.Beware this is the simplest way for mistakes to be made.Cutting a 3D designThe biggest problem for working and creating a design in 3D is transforming the 2Dstencil into a three-dimension finished effect.The position A and B represent two areas of hair that need to be faded together withinthis design. In order to re-create this on the client’s head, the task is executed in twoprogressive steps:EKU statementAH35 41) The recommendedtime interval betweencuts and why they need tokeep their hair cut regularly............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................EKU statementAH35 43) The productssuitable for home care andthose to avoid and whyAH35 46) Groomingrequirements............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................A1A..1 The area of hair is first cut to the longest length of design.2 The area of hair is then reworked to provide the detail and contour within thedesign which is faded down to the shortest length.LengthB1BHeightB2A2Depth
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