London Paris

SPECIAL PROMOTION&London ParisSeptember 24-25, 2011Tales oftwo citiesR OYA L SCrowning gloryCelebrating the Queen’sDiamond Jubilee.Page 7R A I LAction stationsSt Pancras International toGare du Nord in two hours.Page 8M U S T S E EDegas to DisneylandArt, sport and family funcollide in the City of Light.Page 10

2 London & Paris September 24- 25, 2011 smh.com.auThe Sydney Morning Herald September 24- 25, 2011 London & Paris 3SPECIAL PROMOTIONYEAR AHEADTwo cities, six monthsof spectacular events,one chance to win *WIN YOUR VERY OWN WHISTLE-STOP TOUR OF THIS CLASSIC CITY PAIR ATLONDONANDPARIS.COMEtihad Airways, the world’s leading airlineCitroen 2CV**, with “4 roues sous un parapluie”More layersof historyThese vibrant cities will host a rich varietyof events in 2012, writes Keith Austin.George Orwell was famously down andout in Paris and London but that was1933; these days, it’s more aboutgetting down and going out in two ofthe world’s most loved capital cities.One difference between now and Orwell’s dayis that back then, Paris was indeed ‘‘anothercountry’’. Today, with the Channel Tunnel and theEurostar train between London’s Saint PancrasInternational station and Paris’s Gare du Nordstation, they’re more like adjacent suburbs.Indeed, it can sometimes take longer to get acrossLondon in a car than it does to go to central Paris.And I mention cars for a reason – one of themain attractions of both cities is theiraccessibility, thanks to the London Undergroundand the Paris Metro (and let’s not even get startedon the rental bicycles, known as Velibs, in Parisand Boris Bikes in London).I, for instance, am writing this on the CentralLine train inLondon. I got on atBethnal Green ineast London(Victoria andAlbert Museum ofChildhood;Columbia Roadflower market, Brick Lane) and in 25 minutes,will alight at Shepherd’s Bush in west London tolunch at Pho, the excellent Vietnameserestaurant in Frank Lowy’s huge new WestfieldLondon development.And the same goes for Paris. The Metroextends into every nook of this intimate city: onemoment you are at Trocadero (Eiffel Tower,Theatre Nationale de Chaillot) and the next you’readmiring the soaring gothic spires of Notre Dameafter alighting at Saint Michel-Notre Dame Metro.And while both cities groan lovingly underEuro stars ... (top) the Louvre, Paris; St Paul’s from London’s Millennium Bridge.many layers of history, they havealso embraced the present andfuture. History and beautypermeate Paris from end to end,while in London, the past pokestantalisingly through like flowersout of a snowdrift. Here’s a bit ofVictorian England, there’s aRoman ruin, there’s a castle the Normans built.Overlaying both cities are the type of modernevents and places (La Defense, the LouvrePyramid, the London Eye, the Gherkin) that keepa city vibrant and relevant.In the first six months of next year, Paris has,among other things, the French Open tennis(watch games on the big screens outside theHotel de Ville in the Marais district), the ParisJazz Club Festival, an Edgar Degas exhibition atthe Musee d’Orsay, a Matisse exhibition and the20th anniversary of Disneyland Paris. The TimBurton exhibition lobs at the still-contentiousPompidou Centre from March but if all thisexcitement is too much, head to the littleheraldedParc de Belleville in the20th arrondissement for panoramic views of thecity and the charmant bar Le Mer a Boir. Justdon’t tell anyone I told you.London has the Olympics next year but in thecontext of what the city has to offer – in thecontext of history – it’s a mere blip, a few weeksof sporting endeavours, which cast anexaggerated shadow over a city that has muchmore to offer.This is the London of Dickens andShakespeare’s Globe (both of which arecelebrated with exhibitions and festivals nextyear), of Churchill and the Chelsea Flower Show.It’s where Damien Hirst and David Hockney willhave major shows in 2012 and is the place thatwill celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.Champagne on the EDF Energy London EyeKensington Palace GardensA Herald Special Report ■ Editor Bellinda Kontominas, bkontominas@smh.com.au ■ Advertising Jessica Lamb, jessica.lamb@fairfaxmedia.com.au, 9282 2307.■ Readerlink 9282 1569 ■ Cover Big Ben, the London Eye, the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre. Digital manipulation by Greg Bakes.Photo credits: AP Photo, Pawel Libera, Juliet White, McCormick-McAdam, Getty Images, AFP Photo/Valery Hache, Francois Guillot, Remy de la Mauviniere, CRT IDF/Tripelon-Jarry, CRT IDF/Maisant, P.Greboval, W. Alix, Alfred.Mandeville Hotel, West EndDo London ~ Parislike a localFly to London in comfort and luxury with Etihad Airways - votedthe World’s Leading Airline for the past two years running. Takea friend and arrive in time to celebrate the buzz of the Queen’sDiamond Jubilee weekend and look forward to four nights atthe luxury Mandeville Hotel, right in the heart of the city’s WestEnd. Enjoy a Champagne experience on theEDF Energy London Eye, take afternoon tea inKensington Palace Gardens (former residenceof Diana, Princess of Wales), visit a choice of 55top attractions with your London Pass, then takethe stylish Eurostar train straight to the heart ofJardin du Marais Crazy Horse Eurostar from London to Paris Bateaux Parisiens on the SeineParis, luxuriating in stylish Standard Premier along the way.In Paris enjoy four nights at the Jardin du Marais, 4 starboutique hotel in the famous and trendy area of Marais.Experience a city tour in a classic Citroen 2CV, with “4 rouessous un parapluie”, an evening of top cabaret with champagne,at ‘Crazy Horse’, a beautiful dinner cruiseon the Seine with Bateaux Parisiens and getimmersed in the culture of the city with ametro travel pass † and Paris museum pass ††valid for over 60 museums and monumentsaround Paris.Show your savoir-fairewith a chic trip onEurostar from just $57*Hop on the high speed Eurostarand travel tout de suite betweenthe hearts of London and Parisin just 2hrs 15mins.Visit eurostar.comFOR FULL DETAILS OF THIS AMAZING PRIZE AND TO ENTER, GO TOWWW.LONDONANDPARIS.COM* Price for a single fare based on Euro-AUD conversion on 13/09/2011.Prices quoted on eurostar.com in Standard class start from €42.5 one way.* Terms and conditions apply. For full terms and conditions go to www.londonandparis.com ** copyright P. Legros/Citroën Communication for the 2CV place la Concorde picture † Valid for 5 days (Zones 1 to 3) †† copyright Paris Museum Pass

SPECIAL PROMOTION The Sydney Morning Herald September 24- 25, 2011 London & Paris 54 London & Paris September 24- 25, 2011 smh.com.auDESTINATIONLONDONFull circle ... (clockwise from above) Big Ben and the London Eye; the new-look Carnaby Street; a Thames river cruise leaves Millennium Pier; Tower Bridge; (below) shopping on Oxford Street.Pack centuries into daysFrom historic landmarks to quirky outlets, London has lots to offer the time-strapped visitor, writes Keith Austin.Want to make the most of a limitedtime in London and get a realfeel for what the big city has tooffer? Then walk this way ...Basically, London is about the intriguingcombination of old and new. The here and now isexciting, fun and vibrant (we’ll get to that later)but the ‘‘then’’ also shines. And there’s no betterway to experience history than a visit to theTower of London (hrp.org.uk/toweroflondon),which has been standing for almost 1000 years.Built by William the Conqueror after hedefeated the English in 1066, it is a fascinatingtour through the centuries. Beefeaters, ravens,the Crown jewels and Traitor’s Gate are just a fewof the attractions to be found within itsforbidding walls.The tower is also worth the visit because it’snext to another of London’s great icons, TowerBridge (towerbridge.org.uk), a mere historicalstripling at 117 years young but certainly thebest bridge across the capital’s river. Go up tothe highest walkways for great views alongthe Thames and visit the Victorian engineroom to see the steam engines that used topower the drawbridge.Talking of the Thames, a trip on one of theboats (thamesriverservices.co.uk) that ply theriver is London’s answer to the Manly ferry.Boats leave from several points on the river,mainly between Westminster and Greenwich,and travel out to the Thames Barrier, if thatfloats your boat.Whatever else you do, get off at Greenwichand look around. From the jetty, it’s a short walkto the middle of the main square, where the oldtea clipper the Cutty Sark has sat in dry docksince 1954. Fire ripped through the vessel in 2007but it is due to reopen next year.There are plenty of old shops, pubs andmarkets to keep you interested but the must-seedestination is Greenwich Royal Park, in themiddle of which sits the Royal Observatory(nmm.ac.uk), home of Greenwich Mean Timeand the Prime Meridian – the line that divideseast from west at longitude 0° 0’ 0’’.I dare you to visit and not get your photographtaken with one leg in the east and the other inthe west.As an erstwhile Londoner, I greeted theopening of the London Eye (londoneye.com) in2000 with scepticism – until I went on it. ThisThe city is renowned for itsshopping and Oxford Streetoffers a good start.slow-moving Ferris wheel, with its space-agepeople pods, quickly became a key touristattraction and rightly so.The round trip offers plenty of time to enjoythe views – and what views. On a good day, thevista seems unending but it’s the nearby sightsthat fascinate the most – the muddy twists andturns of the Thames, the pomp of the Houses ofParliament and the mediaeval majesty ofWestminster Abbey (which you should put onyour itinerary if you have time).But what of more down-to-earth pursuits?The city is renowned for its shopping andRegent Street or Oxford Street offer a goodstart. For something really quirky in the area,pop into Penhaligon’s, a wonderfully eccentricperfumery at 125 Regent Street. It’s an oldfashionedshop, with whimsical bottles ofscents and rows of haberdasher’s drawers,where they will style a fragrance just for you.Oddly, it’s lots of fun.Close by is Carnaby Street. The fashion iconfrom the ’60s has reclaimed its mojo, with a littlehelp from nearby Newburgh Quarter, KinglyCourt and Foubert’s Place, and youngentrepreneurs and designers are againconfidently strutting their stuff.For less-structured shopping, try the Sundaymorningmarkets at Spitalfields and Brick Lanein East London. Once a much-reviled area of thecity, these two markets have blossomed in recentyears as gentrification of the east has proceededapace. There are pubs, cafes, restaurants andshops selling everything from cheap sunglassesto designer clothes.At 133 Brick Lane, you can sit on thefootpath smoking a hookah pipe at the HookahLounge while downing an industrial-strengthcoffee. If you’re feeling hungry, a short strollwill take you to one of the two 24-hour bagelshops nearby.Finally, for those of a more florid bent,there’s the Columbia Road flower market(columbiaroad.info) in Bethnal Green, whereblooms and plants of every type and hue are forsale from early every Sunday morning untilabout 2.30pm, when it folds up and disappearsfor another week. The shops there have beenspruced up in recent years and for a decent, ifpricey, lunchtime feed, try the Royal Oak pub.As for food, if you want a real taste of London,try the shellfish – winkles, cockles and the like –and jellied eels at Tubby Isaac’s stall at theAldgate end of Spitalfields market. Or scoffdown some of that cockneystaple, pie and mash. Mincedmeatpie, mashed potato andparsley liquor all covered insalt, pepper and vinegar –lovely jubbly. Two of myfavourites are G Kelly at 414Bethnal Green Road and FredCooke’s Pie and Mash Shop at9 Broadway Marketin Hackney.There you go, then, Londonin a nut – or cockle – shell.For more information, seevisitlondon.com.FAST FACTSGetting there Qantas, British Airways,Etihad Airways, Emirates, Thai Airways,Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific andMalaysia Airlines fly to London fromSydney and Melbourne. Qantas has afare for about $2080 low-season return,including tax. You fly to Singapore(about 7hr), then to London (about 14hr).Fare allows you to fly into London andout of certain other European cities.Staying there The Athenaeum is on Piccadilly,opposite Hyde Park and within walkingdistance of Oxford Street shops,Buckingham Palace, Knightsbridge and ahost of attractions. A deluxe room is from£270 ($410) a night, while a one-bedroomapartment is from £648 a night. The Stafford London Kempinski, oncehome to the Australian war heroineNancy Wake, is in the historic district ofSt James. Below the building are360-year-old vaulted wine cellars. Themaster sommelier, Gino Nardella, runstours and tastings. Prices for a ClassicQueen room are from £320 a night. Cheap and comfortable, the ComfortInn, Buckingham Palace Road, is idealfor those wanting to stay near Victoriarailway and coach stations and within ashort walk to the London Eye, Houses ofParliament and restaurants. A doubleen suite room is from £143 a night.

6 London & Paris September 24- 25, 2011 SPECIAL PROMOTION The Sydney Morning Herald SPECIAL PROMOTIONSeptember 24- 25, 2011 London & Paris 7DESTINATIONLONDONCurtainraisersAs if the Olympics aren’t enough, there are plenty of otherreasons to visit London next year, writes Joanne Brookfield.City preparesfor a royal galaPomp, pageantry and portraits will mark the Queen’sDiamond Jubilee festivities, writes Kristie Kellahan.What the Dickens?Born 200 years ago next February, CharlesDickens is considered by many to be the greatestnovelist of the Victorian era.Celebrating his historical significance andenduring popularity (his work has never goneout of print), the Museum of London ispresenting Dickens and London.His works tackled the great social questions ofthe 19th century – wealth and poverty,prostitution, childhood mortality andphilanthropy – and the exhibition includespaintings, photographs, costumes and objectsillustrating his work’s key themes. DickensianLondon will be recreated, with haunting soundsand projections, and an innovative audiovisualexperience will ‘‘bring to life’’ the desk and chairwhere Dickens wrote. Lovers of literature willgain a rare glimpse of his handwrittenmanuscripts for Bleak House and DavidCopperfield, which is considered his mostautobiographical work.In his 58 years, Dickens went from workingin a blacking factory as a child while his fatherwas imprisoned to beginning his writing careeras a political journalist. He penned classics suchas A Tale of Two Cities, Great Expectations andOliver Twist.As part of the exhibition, documentaryfilmmaker William Raban will link past andpresent in his specially commissioned film,which explores the similarities between presentdayLondon after dark and the night-time citydescribed by Dickens more than 150 years ago.Visitors will be left saying, ‘‘Please sir, I wantsome more.’’Dickens and London, December 9 to June 10 atthe Museum of London.All the world on stageThe Tempest performed in Arabic? TitusAndronicus in Cantonese? Julius Caesar inItalian? How about Henry VIII in Spanish? OrKing Lear in an Aboriginal language? Maybe TheTaming of the Shrew in Urdu? Although WilliamShakespeare is undoubtedly the most famousEnglish playwright, his 38 works will prove theirinternational appeal when each is performed in adifferent language.The World Shakespeare Festival begins nextyear, fittingly enough on the Bard’s birthday,April 23, as part of next year’s Cultural Olympiad.Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, on the banks ofthe Thames, will be home to a massive,multilingual event: the first time all Shakespeare’splays have been performed in one season.Many theatres and venues will host otherfestival performances. The Almeida Theatre, theBarbican, the BBC, the British Museum, theNational Theatre and the Roundhouse willshowcase a mix of professional theatrecompanies and young and emerging artists.The director of the World ShakespeareFestival, Deborah Shaw, says: ‘‘Artists from allover are pushing the boundaries of performance,fusing different art forms: theatre, circus, music,dance, multimedia.’’For more information, seeworldshakespearefestival.org.uk.Cherishing ChurchillWhat was Sir Winston Churchill’s favouritechampagne? Should that question be asked at atrivia night, you’ll know the answer if you attend aone-night-only event at the Churchill War Rooms.On February 10, the rooms will host a specialValentine’s Day-themed event. The1940s-inspired evening will feature jive classesfrom the London Swing Dance Society plus foodand drink typical of the era. There will also beinformal guided tours of what were the originalcabinet war rooms, a maze of undergroundbunkers that safely housed Churchill’s teamduring World War II. Guests are asked to get intothe swing of things by dressing as they did in the1940s, though this is not compulsory. The manhimself will be toasted with a glass of hisfavourite bubbly: Pol Roger.The rich history of these rooms – the roundthe-clockplanning and plotting, the strategiesand secrets they once held – can also beexperienced in this museum to Churchill, whichuses cutting-edge technology and multimediadisplays to bring his story to life.After Hours at the Churchill War Rooms,February 10. See cwr.iwm.org.uk.Among the tall poppiesFilmmakers have the Oscars, athletes have theOlympics and horticulturalists have theChelsea Flower Show.The most famous flower show in the world,it is held for five days every northern springand attracts visitors from around the globe, sotickets must be booked in advance.The best ideas are on display, winningprofessionals awards across many categoriesand inspiring onlookers to re-create the magicat home.This year’s people’s choice large-gardenwinner, Diarmuid Gavin’s The Irish Sky Garden,a metal structure suspended above the groundSomething for all ... (clockwise from top left) Churchill’s war rooms; the Globe Theatre; DamienHirst with his work The Immortal; the Chelsea Flower Show.and surrounded by reflective pools, might bestbe left to the experts but it’s a good example ofthe level of creativity on display.At the flower show, new varieties of plantssit alongside old favourites, there are fabulousfloral displays and great contemporary designs,plus an endless array of related products to getthose green fingers reaching for their wallets.The show, which is run by the RoyalHorticultural Society, began in 1862 andattracts royals, celebrities and lots of mediacoverage, which includes an annual DVD ofthe event.Chelsea Flower Show, May 22-26 at the RoyalHospital. See rhs.org.uk.Artful splendourArt lovers will be spoilt for choice with fourmust-see exhibitions at Tate Britain, TateModern, the Royal Academy of Arts and theNational Gallery. Picasso, who was born in Spain and spent mostof his life in France, had lifelong connections withBritain. The painter, famed for co-founding cubism,had an enormous impact on 20th-century Britishmodernism. Tate Britain is celebrating this figure ofcontroversy and celebrity with its exhibitionPicasso and Modern British Art, which featuresmore than 150 works from public and privatecollections. It is on display from February 15to July 15. One artist influenced early on by Picasso isDavid Hockney. Now known more for hisnatural, realistic style, Hockney is described asthe best-known artist of his generation. He isexhibiting a large body of new work at theRoyal Academy of Arts in London fromJanuary to April. His work includes landscapes,photography, prints and stage designs. Managing to smash the stereotype of thestruggling artist, Damien Hirst is reportedly therichest artist alive in Britain. His work grabbedthe headlines when he suspended a shark informaldehyde in the 1990s, which cementedhis place as one of the most influential artistsof his generation. Tate Modern is bringingtogether some of his key works of the past20 years, making this the first substantialsurvey of his work displayed in a Britishinstitution. The exhibition will run fromApril 4 to September 9. Hyped as a must-see exhibition, Leonardoda Vinci: Painter at the Court of Milan is said tobe the most complete display of the artist’s raresurviving paintings. The exhibition, at theNational Gallery from November 9 toFebruary 5, will be a collection of internationalloans never before seen together.For more information on these art exhibitions,see tiny.cc/xk0mk; tiny.cc/ijcbd; andtiny.cc/e3dzt.The recent nuptials of Prince Williamand Kate Middleton elevated royalfever to new heights in Britain and allsigns point to a prolonged period ofglory for the reigning monarch.Next year, the Queen will celebrate 60 years onthe British throne and a slew of Diamond Jubileeevents have been planned to celebrate thismilestone. The celebrations will continuethroughout the year across London, culminatingin a fun-filled four-day weekend in June, when adouble bank holiday will give locals and visitorsplenty of reason to kick up their heels.Monarchists, traditionalists and those whosimply love to party will want to be in Londonfrom June 2-5, with more than 1000 vesselstaking to the waters on June 3 in a spectaculardisplay during the Thames Diamond JubileeRiver Pageant.Celebrations led by the Queen will bring theriver to life with the sound of music barges,chiming bells and a gun salute at London Bridgeas sailing vessels of all shapes and sizes create avisual feast to remember. Fifty big screens will beplaced along the route of this free event, bringingthe proceedings live to the massive crowd that isexpected to attend.A family-friendly festival at Battersea Park thatday will also keep children of all ages happy, withfunfair rides, food and amusements.To continue the celebrations, severalexhibitions have been planned. Don’t miss TheQueen: Art and Image at the National PortraitGallery from May 17 to October 21. The 60portraits on display – one for each year of theQueen’s reign – range in size from a postagestamp to the length of the gallery’s walls andhave been created in mediums as diverse as a3D light projection.Master strokes ... Buckingham Palace (top)will host a display of Leonardo da Vinci’s workin the Queen’s Gallery (above).The Victoria and Albert Museum of art anddesign is also joining the festivities with a displayof portraits of Her Majesty from February 8 toApril 22.Queen Elizabeth II by Cecil Beaton: ADiamond Jubilee Celebration will showcasealmost 100 portraits of the Queen captured overthe past 60 years, as well as intimate notes anddiaries that document Beaton’s trusted role inrecording royal history.As part of a British cultural extravaganzathroughout the year, the Queen’s Gallery atBuckingham Palace will host the largest-evercollection of Leonardo da Vinci’s studies of thehuman body.Let there be no doubt, London is readyto celebrate.Follow in Kate and Wills’s well-shod footstepsHAS Britain ever seemed so young, glamand stylish as it does right now? If you’retempted to follow in the trendsettingfootsteps of the royal newlyweds, start withtheir favourite haunts.For classic Brit fare whipped up by chefMark Block, the young couple are regulardiners at Bluebird. And as many a smilingpaparazzi pic will attest, Wills and Kate (androyal best man Harry) favour the tropicalcocktails at upmarket tiki bar Mahiki.Get the classic preppy royal look with ashopping spree to some of the couple’smost-loved retailers. Stylish gents shouldmake a beeline for Turnbull & Asser,bespoke tailor to the royal family. Poloshirts from Polistas and handcrafted shoesfrom the official bootmaker to the Prince ofWales, John Lobb, complete the look.For ladies, Harvey Nichols is just theplace to pick up Kate’s favourite Issadresses. A visit to crown jeweller Garrardmight be out of reach for most but thepretty separates and accessories at Jigsaw— where Kate once worked — are happilybudget-friendly.

SPECIAL PROMOTION8 London & Paris September 24- 25, 2011 smh.com.auThe Sydney Morning Herald September 24- 25, 2011 London & Paris 9SPECIAL PROMOTIONDESTINATIONPARISBikes andbaguettesToo easy ... with 16 departures daily, Eurostar is the conveyance of convenience.Faster than aspeeding bulletAt just over two hours city to city, Eurostar is the easiestway to cross the Channel, writes Kristie Kellahan.Savvy travellers know the best way to getaround Europe is via rail: speedy, stylishand stress-free, the rail network alsooffers a level of efficiency that often putsthe airlines to shame.For travel between London and Paris, theEurostar is a no-brainer. Travelling at speeds up to300km/h, the train journey takes just two hoursand 15 minutes. With up to 16 departures a day,travellers can choose a time from early morningthrough to just after 9pm.Arriving and departing from the cities’ centres,there’s less time wasted getting out to airportsthat can be far from town and more time spentenjoying the modern facilities of the trainstations. Did we mention the Champagne Bar atLondon’s St Pancras International station? It’s thelongest champagne bar in Europe, with adizzying array of bubbles on the menu.No lengthy security screenings, no need toarrive hours before departure, no extra fees forluggage – the benefits of rail over air keepadding up.Eurostar offers three classes of travel, withvarying benefits and amenities associated witheach class. Passengers in Standard class canpurchase food and drinks from the bar car andwill pay the lowest price for travel. Those inStandard Premier receive a complimentary lightmeal and drinks at their seat, as well asCulture two people for the price of oneYOU’VE booked your train ticket, now makethe most of the Eurostar Plus collection ofspecial offers and discounts for travellers.See eurostar.com for two-for-one entry tothe most compelling galleries, museums andcultural institutions in London and Paris.In London, visit the National PortraitGallery, Tate Modern, Tate Britain, theBritish Museum and the Victoria and Albert1HERSA1 0008magazines to read and a spacious seat. Semiflexibletickets are available for travellers in thisclass, making it a good option if you need to keepsome wriggle-room in your plans and don’t wantto incur penalties for changes.Passengers in Business Premier receive themost benefits (including guaranteed boarding)and comfort, and pay extra for this. Beforeboarding, there’s a Business Premier lounge torelax or work in, with complimentary wi-fi.Check-in is fast-tracked and tickets are flexible tochanges or rescheduling as needed. In dedicatedBusiness Premier carriages passengers enjoymeals and drinks at their seat, newspapers andmagazines on board, as well as at-seat powersockets (these are also available in StandardPremier class). The seats are roomy, making themjust the spot to seal a deal, or settle in for thatwell-deserved glass of bubbles and watch thescenery whiz by.Ticket prices vary widely depending on theseason and time of travel, as well as the class oftravel. Prices are from £69 ($105) return, for a seatin standard class.For tickets, see eurostar.com, or if combiningthe Eurostar trip with additional European railtravel, you might consider raileurope.com.au,where you’ll find the widest range of Europeanrail products online with prices quoted inAustralian dollars.Museum. In Paris, the offer is valid at theMusee d’Orsay, the Galeries Nationales duGrand Palais, the Musee du quai Branly, theCite de la Musique, the Jeu de Paume andthe Musee d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris.The offer is valid for up to five days afterarrival and only one person is required tohave a Eurostar ticket to qualify for two-foroneentry.If you have just 24 hours, take a two-wheel turn andexplore the best of Paris by bicycle, writes Melinda Ham.Even if you’ve never been here before,Paris will sweep you off your feet like arekindled romance, taking you to placesyou’ve only read about and secrethaunts you’ll remember long after you’ve left.Travellers have been enchanted by the Frenchcapital for centuries and, if you don’t follow theirwell-worn routes to the Eiffel Tower, the ChampsElysees and the numerous museums of theLouvre, you feel you’re missing something. But aswell as all this, try something a bit different andmaybe step a little outside your comfort zone.8amRouse yourself from bed and head to the Seinefor a brisk morning jog, power walk or saunter.Rollerblades are also an option. Breathing in thefresh air above the city’s famous river is wellworth the effort – whatever the weather – andyou won’t be the only one. Choose the left bankor the right bank, or criss-cross between the twoover the numerous bridges. Check out thehouseboats with floating roof gardens and barges– it’s like Amsterdam with a distinct Parisianflavour. If you love the waterways, head to CanalSaint Martin, the centre of Bobo (bohemianbourgeois) culture, especially on a Sunday.9amBreakfast on hot croissants, pain au chocolat orbaguettes. It’s nearly impossible not to find thistraditional French fare in any cafe but, if in doubt,try Paul – founded 120 years ago and now anetwork of bakeries that produce deliciousmorsels. Dunk your bread into a bowl of cafe aulait or chocolat chaud (hot chocolate). The biggerPauls also have an observation window so youcan see the bakers at work, rolling out baguettesor decorating cakes. See paul.fr.9.30amIf you’re really feeling athletic, rent a Velib bikenow (see below) or, if it’s a Saturday, Sunday orMonday, hop on a Metro train to Porte deClignancourt and Europe’s largest markets,Marche aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. Actually morethan a dozen adjoining markets, it sellseverything from clothes, accessories, furnitureand antiques to fine art and craft. From the 19thcentury, the rag-and-bone men were banishedfrom the city walls and Saint Ouen was wheretheir informal market sprang up. Wander thenarrow winding lanes of the Vernaison market,the original permanent market dating back to1925. Navigating through its 300 stalls, you feelas though you have stumbled on the loot froman 18th-century chateau, complete with walltapestries, gilt chairs, chandeliers and mirrors.Or rummage through racks of luxuriouscostumes that look as if the Paris Opera emptiedits wardrobe here. See parispuces.com.NoonJump on the Metro to Saint-Paul station, Marais,one of Paris’s oldest neighbourhoods. Settled in the12th century, many of its lanes are still intact.Today it is also the centre of thriving gay andJewish communities that cohabit harmoniously.The Marais isn’t just the geographical centre ofParis, it is the epicentre of new trends in bothfashion and design. The city’s oldest districtcontinues to reinvent itself and has a special buzz.In the past three years a new enclave hasestablished itself at the top of the Marais, whereRue Vieille du Temple, Rue de Poitou and RueCharlot form a triangle, inside which a string ofup-and-coming names in fashion and design haveopened their boutiques alongside a plethora ofmulti-brand stores. Sundays are car-free. Closer tothe Seine is the chic, Moroccan-inspired Caravane,a must for lovers of homeware. See caravane.fr orvisit Caravane, 6 Rue Pavee 4e. And discover LeLoir dans la Theiere (Dormouse in the Teapot),where you can feast on delicious quiche/savourytartes, chevre and courgettes, aubergine andtomato and salads in an eclectic bistro withcomfortable, mismatched retro furniture. 3 Rue deRosiers 4e, phone 0142 729 061.1.30pmTime to rent a bike. Velib – a combination of theFrench words for bike and freedom – is theworld’s largest bike-sharing network. With about20,000 Velibs available in 1800 stations every300 metres or more around the city, you sure dohave freedom to travel. You can even get aniPhone app to show the station locations. Pay arefundable deposit on your credit card for a dayor a week (or longer if you’re a resident) and,from then on, 24 hours a day, you can borrow oneof the grey sit-up-and-beg bikes with a basket,front and rear lights and key lock. As the mostexhilarating way to experience Paris, and withbike paths clearly marked, it is also safe – even forkids (10 years and over). See en.velib.paris.fr.2.30pmArt and culture time. Seen clearly from the top ofthe Eiffel Tower or Notre Dame, and when bikingwest from the Marais, the Pompidou Centre vibehits you: the pool of colourful mechanical statues,the street musicians and magicians in theforecourt and then the building itself, peeledinside out with its escalators, plumbing, pipesand air vents squiggling over its exterior. Onceyou’ve bought your ticket, you can come and goas often as you please in a day, so spend an houror two amid Europe’s most extensive andaccessible contemporary art collection and thencome back in the evening to see exhibitions, filmsand talks as it is open, depending on the section,until 10pm. Entry for under 18s is free. An adultticket costs €12 ($16). See centrepompidou.fr/english.5pmBack on your bike and cross the river to Ile de laCite. Once on the island, duck into GlacierBerthillon for the most delicious ice-cream andsorbet you’ll find in France. The cassis flavour ismouth-watering. See www.berthillon.fr and visitat 29-31 Rue Saint Louis en L’Ile 4e.Notre Dame Cathedral soon looms ahead. Taketime later to enjoy the interior of this 12thcenturycathedral but now we’re walking up the387 stairs of the western facade to take in apanoramic view and get up close to the grotesquegargoyles and animalistic water spouts that perchon the cathedral’s roof. Walk up a few more stepsto the massive Emmanuel Bell made famous byVictor Hugo’s 1881 classic The Hunchback ofNotre Dame. Notre Dame towers are open10am-6.30pm in April-September and10am-5.30pm in October-May. Admission is €8.Different view ... (clockwise from main) one of the city’s 20,000 Velib bicycles; the PompidouCentre; view from Notre Dame; a Berthillon ice-cream.7pmHead across the road to Shakespeare andCompany, established by American GeorgeWhitman in 1951 and frozen in time. It’s a booklover’s heaven; downstairs in the shop, shelvesof English-language books crowd upwards fromthe floor to sagging ceiling beams while, upstairsin the library, editions once owned or authoredby Simone de Beauvoir, John-Paul Sartre,Graham Greene and many others line theshelves and are stacked in piles on the floor anddesks. The shop closes at 11pm. Shakespeareand Company, 37 Rue de la Bucherie 5e.See shakespeareandcompany.com. Or take abook and relax at one of several barges on theleft bank that have been turned into tearooms.8pmJust before dinner, explore the streets of the LeftBank, Saint-Germaine-des-Pres and the numerouscafes, bars, galleries and boutiques nestled alongits streets. Sip an aperitif and eat freshly madechips in an outdoor cafe. Then head to Cour duCommerce Saint-Andre, one of about a dozencovered shopping arcades remaining in Paris, builtin the 18th century so genteel women wouldn’t getsplashed by passing carts. There are many optionsfor dinner but, for a truly authentic Parisian meal,you can dine with local residents in their homewhile being served restaurant-quality food such ascoq au vin with gratin dauphinois for main andpear and chocolate delice for dessert. Prices arefrom €60 an adult or €40 a child. Seemeetingthefrench.com. Or head to La Jacobine, atiny, bustling restaurant with beaded-curtainwindows, where you can enjoy home-cooked fareafter all that biking. Duck tagine with dates andalmonds or sauteed scallops with pastis are sure tohit the spot. Open until 11.30pm. La Jacobine,59-61 Rue Saint Andre des Arts 75006;phone 0146 341 595.FAST FACTSGetting there Singapore Airlines, EtihadAirways, Malaysia Airlines, CathayPacific, Thai Airways and Emirates fly toParis from Sydney and Melbourne.Emirates has a fare for about $1973 lowseasonreturn, including tax. You fly toDubai (about 14hr), then to Paris(7hr 30min). This fare lets you fly intoParis and out of some other Europeancities. See emirates.com.au.Staying there Paris France Hotel is a beautiful1910 building with a large, timber-linedlobby and charming rooms. It’s inthe heart of Paris, close to the Maraisand Republique, St Martin Canal andthe Pompidou Centre. Double roomscost from ¤120 ($160) a night.See paris-france-hotel.com. The Westin Paris Vendome is within100 metres of the Jardin des Tuileries,Place de la Concorde and the boutiques ofRue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. TheLouvre and Eiffel Tower are an easy walkfrom here. A superior room costs from¤325 a night. See thewestinparis.com. Staying in Paris can be expensive butwhy not live like a local and rent anapartment in a central location for acouple of days, a week or a month. Twoof the best sites are paristay.com andalacarte-paris-apartments.com. Withyour own place, you can shop locally,eat in some days, feel more at home inParis and have more space — especiallywith a family.More information See new-paris-idf.com.1HERSA1 0009

SPECIAL PROMOTION10 London & Paris September 24- 25, 2011 smh.com.auThe Sydney Morning Herald September 24- 25, 2011 London & Paris 11SPECIAL PROMOTIONDESTINATIONPARISJoin the culture clubFrom music to arts, sport and distractions for the children, there’s something for everyone in the City of Light, writes Garry Maddox.is always a good idea,’’ AudreyHepburn once said in a movie.Visitors from all over the world‘Parisagree. Any time of the year, theFrench capital has an indelible romantic appealfor tourists discovering history and stunningsights every corner they turn.It’s also a city of culture, fashion, food,shopping, music, film and sport – especially atthe climax of the Tour de France or a big matchat the Stade de France. And postcard sellershave made a fortune from such famous touristattractions as the Eiffel Tower; the Louvre, withits impossible range of artistic riches that onlystart with the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo;the Pompidou Centre, with its own collectionof masterpieces; the charming Left Bank;artistic Montmartre; Notre Dame; the Seine;and the famous Arc de Triomphe on theChamps-Elysees.But if that’s not enough, Paris also has a buzzingcalendar of cultural and entertainment events inthe first half of next year, including Les Maitres duDesordre at Musee du quai Branly, Robert Crumbat the Museum of Modern Art and Manuel AlvarezBravo at the Jeu de Paume. Many exhibitions offertwo-for-one entry if you buy a train ticket throughEurostar (see page 8).Art and cultureThe Musee d’Orsay, on the left bank of the Seine,is worth visiting any time for the stunning arrayof impressionist and post-impressionistmasterpieces in its permanent collection and thegrand atmosphere of the former railway station.Early next year, it will host the city’s first majormonographic exhibition in more than twodecades on one of the great masters of the19th century – Edgar Degas.1HERSA1 0010While the Paris-born artist was also famous forhis paintings of dancers and horses, Degas andthe Nude will show his fascination with thefemale form and the way his initially academicand historical approach evolved into ‘‘theinscription of the body in modernity’’.A partnership with the Boston Museum ofFine Arts, the exhibition will offer a rare chanceto see the museum’s remarkable but fragilecollection of graphic works, alongside loans fromthe New York Metropolitan Museum of Art andthe Art Institute of Chicago.The museum’s other treasures include worksby Van Gogh, Gauguin, Cezanne, Pissarro,Manet, Monet, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec,Bonnard and Rodin.Degas, March 13 to July 1 at the Musee d’Orsay.See musee-orsay.fr/en.Previously unseen work by another great Frenchartist, Henri Matisse, will be exhibited at thePompidou Centre next year. The exhibitionthrows light on the creative process and thedevelopment of series based on a single subject.He is known for his bold use of colour,draughtsmanship and striking compositions.Matisse, March 7 to June 18 at the PompidouCentre. See www.centrepompidou.fr.Each year in Paris, an internationallyrenowned contemporary artist is invited to createa unique artwork for the Nave of the GrandPalais, which sits beneath a stunning 45-metreglass vault. For Monumenta 2011, organised bythe French Ministry of Culture andCommunication, Bombay-born British sculptorAnish Kapoor devised a huge work calledLeviathan, which evoked the Biblical sea monsterof the same name and was accompanied byconcerts, performances and readings. Next year,French conceptual artist Daniel Buren will createa work for the nave.Conceived as the architectural centrepiece ofthe Paris Universal Exposition in 1900, the GrandPalais, on the Champs-Elysees, also hosts othersignificant cultural events, includingcontemporary art exhibitions and fairs.Monumenta, May and June, 2012, at the GrandPalais. See monumenta.com/en.CinemaFans of Hollywood director Tim Burton, whosemovies include Beetlejuice, Batman, EdwardScissorhands, Charlie and the Chocolate Factoryand Alice in Wonderland, will be interested in anexhibition at the Paris Cinematheque thatshowcases his inventiveness.Originally at the Museum of Modern Art inNew York then later in Melbourne, Tim Burton:The Exhibition includes a gallery devoted to hiswork as a director, producer, writer, conceptartist, photographer and illustrator.It features artworks he made as a student,letters, examples of his early films and excerptsfrom projects that are yet to be made. Definitelyworth seeing if you missed it in Melbourne.Tim Burton: The Exhibition, March 7 to August 5,2012, at Paris Cinematheque. See cinematheque.fr.Family funFrom Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck toCaptain Jack Sparrow and Buzz Lightyear, allof Disney’s famous characters will be partyingin April, when Disneyland Paris celebrates its20th anniversary. Located 32 kilometresfrom central Paris, the 19-square-kilometre siteincludes two bustling theme parks, 13 hotels,a golf resort and an entertainment districtwith shops, restaurants, bars, cinemas andlive music.At Disneyland Park, the attractions includethe musical tour It’s a Small World atFantasyland; the thrill-ride Space Mountain:Mission 2 and the Buzz Lightyear LaserBlast, both at Discoveryland; the WildWest train ride Big Thunder Mountainat Frontierland; and Pirates of theCaribbean at Adventureland.To mark the 20th anniversary, the iconicSleeping Beauty castle will be lit up at duskas part of a colourful light show. At WaltDisney Studios Park, guests can investigatethe world of cinema and television withtours of four studio lots that all have theirown attractions.At Production Courtyard, riders can plunge13 floors in the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror. AtToon Studio, they can feel what it’s like to be thesize of a toy on the larger-than-life rides or jointhe Cars Race Rally.Disneyland Paris 20th Anniversary, April atDisneyland Paris. See disneylandparis.com.SportFor tennis fans around the world, the nameRoland Garros conjures images of dramaticclay-court battles at the French Open.This year, there were memorable wins inboth the men’s and women’s singles. RafaelNadal equalled Bjorn Borg’s record six men’stitles in the modern era when he wore downRoger Federer, who had seen off NovakDjokovic in the semi-finals. And Li Na wonChina’s first grand slam when she beat thedefending champion, Francesca Schiavone.Next year, the tournament will run fromMay 22 to June 10 and history suggests it will bejust as dramatic.French Open, May 22 to June 10 at Roland Garros.See rolandgarros.com.Paris on a platter ... (clockwise from main) the Musee d’Orsay showcases art history; the ParisCircuit Party (top) celebrates equality and freedom; the French Open at Roland Garros; the manmadePlage a Paris; Disneyland Paris icons; the Cite de la Musique.MusicA striking building in the east of Paris, the Cite dela Musique (City of Music) attracts music loversof all kinds. It hosts more than 400 concerts ayear and has a museum with a major collectionof classical instruments.Next year, it will feature an exhibition devotedto a formative time in the musical evolution ofBob Dylan. Between 1961 and 1966, the greatsinger-songwriter went through a radical changefrom little-known folk artist to one of hisgeneration’s most famous figures, embracingfirst protest songs then evolving his distinctivesongwriting style with numbers such as Blowin’in the Wind and A Hard Rain’s a-Gonna Fallbefore taking up the electric guitar.Created by the Grammy Museum of LosAngeles, the exhibition Bob Dylan, Rock Explosionfeatures objects, rare documents, an audiovisualarchive and previously unpublished photos.Bob Dylan, Rock Explosion, March 6 to July 1 atthe Cite de la Musique.See cite-musique.fr.If you’re more interested in the smooth sounds ofjazz, Paris is one of the world’s great centres.The Paris Jazz Club ‘‘promotes, celebrates anddemocratises all forms of jazz’’ at venues acrossthe city, including Autour de Midi ... et Minuit atthe foot of Montmartre, the adventurouslyprogrammed Le Baiser Sale near the ChateletMetro station and the elegant Le Boeuf Sur le Toitnear the Champs-Elysees.The Paris Jazz Club Festival will feature arange of local and international talentperforming in 16 jazz clubs in and around Paris.One ticket will gain entry to all concerts in theaffiliated clubs.Paris Jazz Club Festival, January 2 to 15 at variousvenues. See parisjazzclub.net.Gay and lesbianJust as Sydney has Mardi Gras, Paris has its ownvibrant celebration of gay pride. The Paris CircuitParty, held for the first time this year in June, wasa chance to socialise, dance, see shows, visitexhibitions and support gay-friendly policies.The program included six parties with 22 DJsand 40 go-go dancers. A highlight was the gaypride parade that ran for seven kilometres fromGare Montparnasse to the Bastille, culminating ina free concert.Next year’s program is expected to includeeven more events.Paris Circuit Party, June 21 to July 2 at variousvenues. See pariscircuitparty.com.Celebrating summerIf you’re missing the beach during winter inAustralia, fear not: Parisians build their ownduring their summer.Tonnes of sand and deckchairs are shipped infor La Plage (the Beach) at Glazart, a formerrailway station in the city’s north-east thatfeatures edgy concerts, exhibitions and culturalevents all year.For locals and tourists, it’s a popular spot forbuzzing nightlife, including open-air concertsfrom mid-June to September. On Sundays it ismore family-oriented, with picnics, games ofpetanque and water-pistol fights.The main Plage a Paris stands from mid-July tomid-August, along the right bank of the Seine.See paris.frFor more information on events in Paris, see new-parisidf.com.For details on discounts to museums,see eurostar.com/UK/x_euro/leisure/latest_deals/eurostarcc.jsp.1HERSA1 0011

12 London & Paris September 24- 25, 2011 smh.com.au