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November 2006 - Canoeist Magazine

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Guide<br />

38<br />

Kirkibost and Kilmarie, which was home to the<br />

Mackinnon chiefs, Abhainn Cille Mhaire discharging<br />

through a sheltered estuary. A graveyard, cemetery and<br />

the remains of a dun are located around the woods.<br />

Wild raspberries, small but full of flavour, grow along<br />

the shoreline. Castle Keep produces hand forged<br />

swords, knives and dirks and Duncan House is where<br />

Garth Duncan produces traditional knives and Celtic<br />

jewellery in gold, silver and platinum.<br />

There is another tomb near the remains of Dùn<br />

Liath and, before Dùn Grugaig, the Spar Cave which<br />

has many stalactites.<br />

Columns forming on the Glasnakille coast.<br />

Beyond Rubha na h-Easgainne and Eilean na h-<br />

Airde is Port an Luig Mhòir with a notable cave.<br />

Prince Charles’s Cave is where the Pretender hid on<br />

5th July 1746 before leaving for Mallaig, his final<br />

departure from the island with which he is so closely<br />

associated.<br />

Suidhe Biorach with Sgurr Alasdair rising behind.<br />

CANOEIST <strong>November</strong> <strong>2006</strong><br />

Cliffs beyond Suidhe Biorach. Note the cow.<br />

Rounding Suidhe Biorach brings into view the<br />

spread of the Black Cuillins, their frost shattered peaks<br />

separated by corries and cliffs to their 990m rock<br />

crown. They are best seen by the general public from<br />

Elgol at the end of the single track B8083. In the past,<br />

infertile couples came not for the view but to drink<br />

the water of a near by well and invoke the well’s<br />

guardian spirit to make them fertile. Operating from<br />

the jetty is the Bella Jane, said to offer Scotland’s only 5<br />

star boat trip, to Loch Coruisk.<br />

Weak flows into Loch Scavaig begin an hour and<br />

twenty minutes after Dover high water and flow out<br />

from four hours forty minutes before Dover high<br />

water. More important are the sudden and violent<br />

gusts off 895m Gars-bleinn which drive clouds of spray<br />

and a considerable sea, especially near the head of the<br />

loch, but are quickly past, leaving calm conditions.<br />

The compass is also unreliable in this area but it should<br />

not be hard to identify Camas Fhionnairigh with the<br />

Abhainn Camas Fhionnairigh flowing into it, Loch<br />

nan Leacd and Loch na Cuilce with the Scavaig River<br />

flowing into it from glaciated Loch Coruisk, perhaps<br />

the most evocative place in Europe. The climb from<br />

The best view in Britain. The Black Cuillins rise in a swe

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