Atlantica No. 4, 2010, July-August - Iceland Review

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The Hengill TrekPhotos by Páll stefánsson58 atlantica
Design aTrekking is by far the best way to explore the <strong>Iceland</strong>icwilderness. Robin Vaughan-Williams writes abouthis trek to Innstidalur valley in the Hengillmountain range.The first time I came across Innstidalurvalley, it took my breath away. Nestledhigh up in the mountains, I felt like I’ddiscovered a hidden valley. Its broad, flat bottomwas carpeted in swathes of long grass, cut acrossby the loops of an interminably meanderingstream. It looked like the kind of place picnicswere made for.I’d been driving around for ages in search ofthe starting point for a walk that would take meup to Vörduskeggi, a summit over 800 m highin the Hengill mountain range, but had beenthrown off the scent by a large constructionsite and triangular warning signs right whereI’d been planning to go. Instead, I took a steeptrack up the side of a hill, which led to yet moredodgy tracks winding their way into a ruggedand altogether barren landscape.I had no idea where I was and had given uphope of finding my way to Vörduskeggi. Theseroads weren’t even on the map! There werelarge pipes running alongside the road, andevery now and then I’d pass a cluster of multifacetedpods that looked like nothing so much aslunar landing modules. As so often happens outin the <strong>Iceland</strong>ic wilderness, I began to get thefeeling I was perhaps not on the same planet asthe one I had woken up on.Finally, the road came to an end at another ofthose lunar pods, surrounded by what seemedlike a vast empty car park, which had been mysteriouslysituated on top of a mountain. I walkedover to the edge and there it was laid out belowme—Innstidalur, my route to Vörduskeggi. Myonly problem was how to get down there; I wasstanding on top of a cliff.Vörduskeggi turned out to be the mostspectacular walk I have done within reachof Reykjavík. Because of its height, the sum-atlantica 59
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No.4. 2010 July - AugustYour Free C
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on the flyPhoto BY PÁLL STEFÁNSSO
Page 9 and 10: The Frozen TroveDowntown Reykjavík
Page 12 and 13: On the FlyA Feast Fit for KingsPhot
Page 14 and 15: On the FlySculptures by Richard Ser
Page 16 and 17: on the flyIn Full Bl o mBy Sari Pel
Page 18 and 19: On the FlyFurniBloom is a set of se
Page 20 and 21: On the FlyDivineLightsThe incredibl
Page 22 and 23: On the FlyHarbor the Art■■Villa
Page 24 and 25: On the FlyA Challenge of the MindBy
Page 26 and 27: On the Flytraining, say Benedikt Hj
Page 28 and 29: See the Big Whales BlowBy Bjarni Br
Page 30 and 31: a See the Big Whales BlowThe birdli
Page 32 and 33: a Tricky VolcanoKarmic Paybackby Ey
Page 34 and 35: Child’s Playby John Boyce Photos
Page 36 and 37: aChild’s PlayPhoto By Bjarni Bryn
Page 38 and 39: Daladalur valley and the farm Hóla
Page 40 and 41: a Eastern PromisesSeydisfjördur is
Page 42 and 43: a Eastern PromisesMidnight sun refl
Page 44 and 45: a Eastern PromisesLindarbakki, a ho
Page 46 and 47: Countryside Cultureby John BoycePho
Page 48 and 49: a Countryside CultureBustarfell Fol
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Page 52: a Down on the Farmby Deb SmithPhoto
Page 56 and 57: Out and Aboutby John BoycePhotos by
Page 58 and 59: a Out and About■ Cintamani / www.
Page 62 and 63: a The Hengill Trekmit offers unpara
Page 64 and 65: Summerin the CityTwenty-four hours
Page 66 and 67: VILTU VINNA FERÐTIL TYRKLANDSFYRIR
Page 68 and 69: DAY TOURSwE‘LL TAKEYOU ThERE!DAY
Page 70 and 71: aicelandSpecial promotionHistory an
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Atlantica No. 4, 2010, July-August - Iceland Review

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